@Rainman Ray’s Repairs, Ray, I often wonder why iYou guys don’t treat rust with phosphoric acid? It treats and prevents it coming back, great for the hubs under rotors for example. I live and work in a Marne environment, much like Miami and it’s the only way we can keep on top of the rust.
Unrelated specifically to the video, but a BIG thanks to Ray for his videos. I just had to replace the rear rotors in my sons car, and the brake caliper slide pin had seized in place as the rubber boot had slipped out of place. Not sure if you had to free one, or spoke about it in your videos, but I was able to soak, and then free the pin (With a home made slide hammer thanks to a length of thread bar, a nut, ride on mower blade as a stopper on the end, and a length of 35mm square tube as the hammer).
I felt as if I was half Rainman Ray, half MacGyver and a pinch of Homer Simpson while doing the job 🙂
Seriously, thanks for the videos, from a fan down under (Yeah I'm in Australia)
Good to see you look at the inside and outside pads. Doing some work for my buddy a shop quoted him $800 for all 4 ball joints, $300 for brake pads, and $100 alignment. They told him he has some time left on the brakes but when I removed the pads the outside was half life and the inside was less that 1/16. I done ball joints and brakes for $400, saved him $700
In the rust belt I grind down the shim area and put the brake grease behind the shim to prevent corrosion little tip for those up north makes them last like new
Great video, id love to wrench in Florida.. Up North you would put synthetic brake grease under the abutment clips and on the face of the pistons. And on the slide pins.
Hi RAy, Thanks for your work. Love your approach/attitude and ‘script’ content. Just have a question. What are your thoughts to bedding the breaks after assembly? Your are a great Youtube discovery!
Two vehicles in my garage with those "drum-in-hat" rear rotors. My 2001 Dodge 2500 and my kid's 2012 "Jeep" Liberty.
And good for the owner for just replacing everything. I'm getting ready to do the brakes on the RAM… $390 out the door for pads and rotors, not including the parking brake shoes – I'll check those when I get it apart. I figure I might as well do them all, now that I just turned 87k on the truck (I did the fronts at 50k, the rears are factory).
Carpeted dashboard cover… it's different, and for that I am pleased. I probably wouldn't want one myself, but it's still nice to see in the wild; if that makes any sense.
ANOTHER GREAT CRAFTSMAN MASTER TECH VIDEO…I NEVER LIKED HOT SPOTS ON ROTORS…THE PEDAL ALWAYS DROVE ME BOZO…A VIBRATION WILL SIGNAL SOMETHING DEEPLY WRONG…SMOOTH OPERATION IS A MUST FOR PROPER CONTROL…I PUT SLOTTED & DRILLED ROTORS ON FRONT OF 91 SENTRA…STOPS LIKE A BMW…🙃💯👍🇺🇲💪
My wife waits till the last few seconds before she brakes, like 50 feet as the light turns red. this causes tremendous heating up of her front rotors, (making hot spots). She does this at every complete stop, racing up to the light or sign (scary as hell) if you're the passenger, never go used to her "style". This is what I found to be "warping" her rotors. now that she is legally blind and I am her driver, I will only have to change them one more time. I gradually brake, my foot is near the pedal and I start slowing down way before I know I have to stop, never ever have I had to prematurely replace the rotors on my truck.
This was a refreshing 'brake' from the channels I usually watch about wrenching on cars (German sites mostly). Good camera work, well explained, which the perfect dose of humor (or humour if you prefer that spelling^^) and levity. Really appreciate the honesty which you provided the customer regarding their options as well. One question however: do you not believe in torque settings?
You did say "click" when tightening a few of the bolts, but I got the impression that was more an inside joke than anything else. In Germany we have the saying "Nach zu ist ab" which would translate to something like "after it's tight it's off". I'm sure you know that nuts and bolts on vehicles (especially safety component related such as brakes, suspension) have torque settings. Well, I suppose you have gotten a feel for what is too tight or not from experience, so here's hoping everything stays as it should.
People don't realize that after a brake job doing a brake flush is so important and make your break so much more effective, you have an amazing brake pedal and a safe brake system with new fluid. People just don't understand the dire importance of this
No it is not 1970 but it is 2022, and those contact points of the brakes that make contact with the caliper bracket need to have grease on them so the brakes slide and don't get binded up, I have yet to see a mechanic do a brake job properly, there are some vehicles on the market that if you compress the caliper without opening up the bleeder screw that can damage the master cylinder seals and some components of the ABS system and yes permatex ceramic Grease on those contact points of the break where they slide on to the rotor and back off definitely need to be greased, but I'm sure you'll tell me I'm wrong, even though I'm 100% right. Doing that will help keep the brakes from running on the rotors during non-breaking operations. Even good mechanics like yourself failed to see this very important part of a brake job. But hey who am I I'm just a veteran in the automotive business and the shop owner
Have you ever seen a new rotor that was warped? I did brakes on my truck and had vibration immediately after. I had to have one turned and I can't imagine what I would have done to cause it.
I like the big Napa Auto Care sign on that wall and most of your parts I have seen come from Advance Auto Parts/Carquest…..As a Commercial guy for Advance I say Thank You.
Does compressing the brake calipers Force brake fluid back through the antilock brake system and does that cause an issue? I was told to do it slowly if you're not going to open up the brake bleeders.
I would say, also good thing to inspect your rim, it caused the same effect to me. My rim was damaged and hard to see and find it. Nearly after 5 years, i am still running the same set of brakes without any problems. Actually, my sets are going to be 10 years old now 😀
Anyone have any input I did pads and rotors o. My Nissan Sentra and I’ve got terrible vibration much worse than this in only 7 months….
Those caliper bracket bolts had to many ugga duggas.
Awesome job as always, Ray.
I dont know if it was just the angel of the camera, but that hub looked bent.
@Rainman Ray’s Repairs, Ray, I often wonder why iYou guys don’t treat rust with phosphoric acid? It treats and prevents it coming back, great for the hubs under rotors for example. I live and work in a Marne environment, much like Miami and it’s the only way we can keep on top of the rust.
Slid Pins, supposedly should have between 27-50 Ft. Lbs. Torque applied, someone over-tightened them on this GM vehicle…
Ray can you comment on the calliper pins? Which pin goes to the top and which one goes on the bottom ? Thanks
Unrelated specifically to the video, but a BIG thanks to Ray for his videos. I just had to replace the rear rotors in my sons car, and the brake caliper slide pin had seized in place as the rubber boot had slipped out of place. Not sure if you had to free one, or spoke about it in your videos, but I was able to soak, and then free the pin (With a home made slide hammer thanks to a length of thread bar, a nut, ride on mower blade as a stopper on the end, and a length of 35mm square tube as the hammer).
I felt as if I was half Rainman Ray, half MacGyver and a pinch of Homer Simpson while doing the job 🙂
Seriously, thanks for the videos, from a fan down under (Yeah I'm in Australia)
Muppetational
Reeeee!!! Nothing to complain about!!!! Ohhh, no!!!! 😉 Oh, yeah: good vid as always!
Good to see you look at the inside and outside pads. Doing some work for my buddy a shop quoted him $800 for all 4 ball joints, $300 for brake pads, and $100 alignment. They told him he has some time left on the brakes but when I removed the pads the outside was half life and the inside was less that 1/16. I done ball joints and brakes for $400, saved him $700
Curious why you chose to use the breaker bar on the front brake caliper mount vs just using your impact?
In the rust belt I grind down the shim area and put the brake grease behind the shim to prevent corrosion little tip for those up north makes them last like new
Runout == Rotors on a side view are " S " shaped and you can actually feel a hill as you run your finger from the middle to the edge of the rotor🧐
I guess angry pliers only had to flex a little and be a little pissed? Also: “Grunt and Click” by Anthrax. Check it out!
Great video, id love to wrench in Florida.. Up North you would put synthetic brake grease under the abutment clips and on the face of the pistons. And on the slide pins.
Hi RAy, Thanks for your work. Love your approach/attitude and ‘script’ content. Just have a question. What are your thoughts to bedding the breaks after assembly? Your are a great Youtube discovery!
Two vehicles in my garage with those "drum-in-hat" rear rotors. My 2001 Dodge 2500 and my kid's 2012 "Jeep" Liberty.
And good for the owner for just replacing everything. I'm getting ready to do the brakes on the RAM… $390 out the door for pads and rotors, not including the parking brake shoes – I'll check those when I get it apart. I figure I might as well do them all, now that I just turned 87k on the truck (I did the fronts at 50k, the rears are factory).
Scratches all over those hubcap covers after you used a screwdriver on them. All Scratched up. JUST KIDDING.
Good job bud
i notice they had the sway bar endlinks replaced
Carpeted dashboard cover… it's different, and for that I am pleased. I probably wouldn't want one myself, but it's still nice to see in the wild; if that makes any sense.
On the grease you use I can only find the copper and aluminum but not the purple.
Runout is not warpage
REEEEEEEEEE!
ANOTHER GREAT CRAFTSMAN MASTER TECH VIDEO…I NEVER LIKED HOT SPOTS ON ROTORS…THE PEDAL ALWAYS DROVE ME BOZO…A VIBRATION WILL SIGNAL SOMETHING DEEPLY WRONG…SMOOTH OPERATION IS A MUST FOR PROPER CONTROL…I PUT SLOTTED & DRILLED ROTORS ON FRONT OF 91 SENTRA…STOPS LIKE A BMW…🙃💯👍🇺🇲💪
You didn't change the fluid that you said looked like it had water init.
You mean to tell me you don't own a breaker bar?
The "S" hook off an old bungee works awesome for hanging calipers.
My wife waits till the last few seconds before she brakes, like 50 feet as the light turns red. this causes tremendous heating up of her front rotors, (making hot spots). She does this at every complete stop, racing up to the light or sign (scary as hell) if you're the passenger, never go used to her "style". This is what I found to be "warping" her rotors. now that she is legally blind and I am her driver, I will only have to change them one more time. I gradually brake, my foot is near the pedal and I start slowing down way before I know I have to stop, never ever have I had to prematurely replace the rotors on my truck.
Thank you again for the tool lists, Amazon appreciates it also.
This was a refreshing 'brake' from the channels I usually watch about wrenching on cars (German sites mostly). Good camera work, well explained, which the perfect dose of humor (or humour if you prefer that spelling^^) and levity. Really appreciate the honesty which you provided the customer regarding their options as well. One question however: do you not believe in torque settings?
You did say "click" when tightening a few of the bolts, but I got the impression that was more an inside joke than anything else.
In Germany we have the saying "Nach zu ist ab" which would translate to something like "after it's tight it's off". I'm sure you know that nuts and bolts on vehicles (especially safety component related such as brakes, suspension) have torque settings. Well, I suppose you have gotten a feel for what is too tight or not from experience, so here's hoping everything stays as it should.
People don't realize that after a brake job doing a brake flush is so important and make your break so much more effective, you have an amazing brake pedal and a safe brake system with new fluid. People just don't understand the dire importance of this
No it is not 1970 but it is 2022, and those contact points of the brakes that make contact with the caliper bracket need to have grease on them so the brakes slide and don't get binded up, I have yet to see a mechanic do a brake job properly, there are some vehicles on the market that if you compress the caliper without opening up the bleeder screw that can damage the master cylinder seals and some components of the ABS system and yes permatex ceramic Grease on those contact points of the break where they slide on to the rotor and back off definitely need to be greased, but I'm sure you'll tell me I'm wrong, even though I'm 100% right. Doing that will help keep the brakes from running on the rotors during non-breaking operations. Even good mechanics like yourself failed to see this very important part of a brake job. But hey who am I I'm just a veteran in the automotive business and the shop owner
What are we in the dinosaur age, what shop in this country cuts rotors, what in the Kentucky fried crack rock is going on here.
Have you ever seen a new rotor that was warped? I did brakes on my truck and had vibration immediately after. I had to have one turned and I can't imagine what I would have done to cause it.
That caliper compressing tool °¤° Me likey.
Good follow through..click
I like the big Napa Auto Care sign on that wall and most of your parts I have seen come from Advance Auto Parts/Carquest…..As a Commercial guy for Advance I say Thank You.
great job
Another great video. And a great example of what happens when people are in hurry on the road. I thought that SUV was going to hit you!
Hey, don't blame a bicyclist for using the road, blame the jackass driver for running in your lane.
Mmmm, nice and dry rotors. Not that oily stuff you have to brake clean off.
That pre vibe check vibe check was pretty crazy.
Does compressing the brake calipers Force brake fluid back through the antilock brake system and does that cause an issue? I was told to do it slowly if you're not going to open up the brake bleeders.
In my day we would have machined the rotors and replaced the pads.
I would say, also good thing to inspect your rim, it caused the same effect to me. My rim was damaged and hard to see and find it. Nearly after 5 years, i am still running the same set of brakes without any problems. Actually, my sets are going to be 10 years old now 😀
Awesome work