Although it takes a little more time, It seem so much more simple to do it like you did here and use the press, especially if you want a better view of the backside to look for snap rings and seals. The next time I do this I'm going to mount the hub vertically and heat the whole bearing fragment to see if it will fall down and drop off. It probably doesn't work as well as they show on Youtube, ha ha.
I have been doing wheel work since Julius Caesars chariot busted an axle. Them Roman wheels were a real b##### to get off. I always dried the wood out real good with good clean horse poo heat. Then I whacked it with a oxhide mallet. Then I put on a new axle and soaked the whole she-bang in the Left Fork of the Tiber for 2 days. Good as new.
I will wager that fully half of the "this is the way I do it" guys wouldn't recognize a wheel bearing/spindle assembly if it bit them in the patootie. Ray you did good.
Wish it was that easy up here in Keweenaw county upper Michigan aka the rust belt maybe I should do a channel of how to do this work up here love your videos keep it up
I enjoy your videos, and have learned lots of good tips and tricks–and I'm not an auto mechanic; I'm a carpenter by trade. It seemed to me getting that bearing out was harder than it should have been. Is that typical? Or was that an exceptionally difficult bearing?
Safety concern: A butane lighter has the explosive force of 1/4th stick of dynamite. Please use a torch striker, a Zippo type lighter, or a match. Never have a butane lighter in your pocket while welding or cutting.
Weaken the bearing inner race with an angular grinder, give it a whack with a chisel if nescessary and it will come off easily. Has always worked for me.
Btw on that bearing shell…stand hub with studs pointing up; put an extension thru it and mount it on vice so you can spin hub; spin hub as you torch i and i will slide ride off.
Put an extension in the vise with the appropriate socket inserted into hub then heat the rase and spin the hub at the same time falls right off every time. No damage to anything.
wow—the bolts on the bearing holder are supposed to be aligned with the steel supports underneath(turning your piece 90 degrees). By NOT doing that, you have placed all the tonnage on the thinner bolts themselves, which with too much pressure will bend or break them. Also, many have commented about using a small cut-off wheel(DREMEL0 and then a chisel; the amount of heat you put onto area can change the metallurgy/strength of the part.
it'd be nice if the hub and bearing came as an assembly instead of a kit that way you can just swap the shit out and not have to deal with pressing anything.
Last thing Raymundo needed to do was cut straight down with a cutting tip. With a flushing tip maybe. A better alternative would have been a cutting grinder wheel. But if you get it red and don't hit it with oxygen then it comes right off if ready while red with the small chipping hammer.
A pain in the ass design did my wifes on her 2004 escape one noisy did both. Pulled the flanges with the slide hammer at my home garage used my bearing separator not worn still had a good edge pulled the inner races off the flanges. Brought the spindles to my work used the 30 ton press to press out the bearing. Used the old bearing aligning it with a hose clamp to press in the new bearing than pressed in the flange not a big deal but a bolt in assembly is much easer. Unless its a old Equinox a bolt in design in a aluminum spindle 3 hours on the 15 lb slide hammer yeah in spurts and between beers at my garage. Took the spindle to work 17 tons to remove it saw the spindle flex a relative to my wifes best friend or any one else put a new spindle in it. You fatigue aluminum you replace it. And you torque that bearing to spec no come backs.
You should do a stacking rocks video
Love it! Flame wrench!!
Although it takes a little more time, It seem so much more simple to do it like you did here and use the press, especially if you want a better view of the backside to look for snap rings and seals. The next time I do this I'm going to mount the hub vertically and heat the whole bearing fragment to see if it will fall down and drop off. It probably doesn't work as well as they show on Youtube, ha ha.
I have been doing wheel work since Julius Caesars chariot busted an axle. Them Roman wheels were a real b##### to get off. I always dried the wood out real good with good clean horse poo heat. Then I whacked it with a oxhide mallet. Then I put on a new axle and soaked the whole she-bang in the Left Fork of the Tiber for 2 days. Good as new.
I will wager that fully half of the "this is the way I do it" guys wouldn't recognize a wheel bearing/spindle assembly if it bit them in the patootie. Ray you did good.
Can't be stuck if it's liquid – aka – I wasn't asking!
Got er done for sure! Stubborn parts! I guess it can't always "be easy", otherwise anyone could do it!
woops spoke to soon
comes off easier if you apply heat
I'm gonna build a flashlight someday that'll stay where you put it.
Wish it was that easy up here in Keweenaw county upper Michigan aka the rust belt maybe I should do a channel of how to do this work up here love your videos keep it up
Heating metal like this could possibly make it more brutal and can crack
Would heating the casting then using some canned spray freeze to rapidly cool the bearing help to break it loose?
Be a man. Hot wrench that race off.
I enjoy your videos, and have learned lots of good tips and tricks–and I'm not an auto mechanic; I'm a carpenter by trade. It seemed to me getting that bearing out was harder than it should have been. Is that typical? Or was that an exceptionally difficult bearing?
Usually I cut it with a cutter wheel and then heat the. Whole thing up with a torch and take a air chisel and cones right off
When I do hub racers I just use a mini grinder at a 45° angle relief cut comes right off with a hammer and chisel
Used to work for Firestone complete auto care an they were big on hanging the caliper while connected to the lines. Glad I don't work for them.
Wow! first thing that I ever saw you do incorrectly. Not the torch but how you used it. So many different options to get it of.
Have you ever tried using the stud holes in the old hub to push long bolts against the knuckle to remove the hub from the knuckle ??
My bad bearing(s) didn't sound like a helicopter. More like the inside of a B-17 four-engine bomber high-tailing it back to England BWAAAAHHHHH
Safety concern: A butane lighter has the explosive force of 1/4th stick of dynamite. Please use a torch striker, a Zippo type lighter, or a match. Never have a butane lighter in your pocket while welding or cutting.
Weaken the bearing inner race with an angular grinder, give it a whack with a chisel if nescessary and it will come off easily. Has always worked for me.
I just heat the race and then quench it with a wet rag while it's still red hot. The thermal shock makes it crack and slip right off.
Shitty design on the ford frt hub brg
U should get the metal hooks for hreak calipers
Yikes
Work with what ya got I guess. Way to get it done.
Btw on that bearing shell…stand hub with studs pointing up; put an extension thru it and mount it on vice so you can spin hub; spin hub as you torch i and i will slide ride off.
Do you own the shop? Im interested in getting a shop like that but looking for a little bit of advice from current owners like how to get in…
Do not you have regular state mandated car inspections every year or two there or what?
Put an extension in the vise with the appropriate socket inserted into hub then heat the rase and spin the hub at the same time falls right off every time. No damage to anything.
wow—the bolts on the bearing holder are supposed to be aligned with the steel supports underneath(turning your piece 90 degrees). By NOT doing that, you have placed all the tonnage on the thinner bolts themselves, which with too much pressure will bend or break them.
Also, many have commented about using a small cut-off wheel(DREMEL0 and then a chisel; the amount of heat you put onto area can change the metallurgy/strength of the part.
I just buy the whole assembly much easier.
Man that was tough too watch when you was taking that bearing and stuff apart lol
it'd be nice if the hub and bearing came as an assembly instead of a kit that way you can just swap the shit out and not have to deal with pressing anything.
You can also use a small wheeled cut off grinder to split the casing.
Use a chisel to split it on the vice, work’s easier
You know how we get that bearing off fast – fast forward!
Miracles do happen
Last thing Raymundo needed to do was cut straight down with a cutting tip. With a flushing tip maybe. A better alternative would have been a cutting grinder wheel. But if you get it red and don't hit it with oxygen then it comes right off if ready while red with the small chipping hammer.
A pain in the ass design did my wifes on her 2004 escape one noisy did both. Pulled the flanges with the slide hammer at my home garage used my bearing separator not worn still had a good edge pulled the inner races off the flanges. Brought the spindles to my work used the 30 ton press to press out the bearing. Used the old bearing aligning it with a hose clamp to press in the new bearing than pressed in the flange not a big deal but a bolt in assembly is much easer. Unless its a old Equinox a bolt in design in a aluminum spindle 3 hours on the 15 lb slide hammer yeah in spurts and between beers at my garage. Took the spindle to work 17 tons to remove it saw the spindle flex a relative to my wifes best friend or any one else put a new spindle in it. You fatigue aluminum you replace it. And you torque that bearing to spec no come backs.
I use exhaust hangers for hanging calipers. They are the ones that fit into the pipe to hang them in storage. Have you ever seen them?
Rubber gloves and a fire axe?
GM Hubs……Easy! 👍😊
I always use a die grinder and cut the race.. Then a little tap with a chisel and it hits the floor..
I just grind the race that's stuck the good whack with a sharp chisel causes hairline crack comes off easy then