So It Begins Folks Summer's over. Fall has left us, the white stuff is falling and the customer States here on his Chevy thinks it needs bricks I Don't know what that means, but we're gonna go check it out. Oh I think he needs brakes I Don't think we have to go very far I think I can hear metal grinding the back of morning traffic here I'll take her for a rip around the block. see what it sounds like? Okay, that's all the morning traffic. All three cars right? Yep, Oh yeah, it's got the heavy grind. Yeah I Don't think we have to go much further. essentially going out on the big road 68 000 miles on this beast in case anybody's wondering how you guys ask. I Think it's okay to agree with this guy that yes, he needs some breaks. Oh, we can see the rear rotors are wore right down to metal. So what we're going to do now is we're going to peel the rotors off pads, rotors, calipers. Yeah, we're gonna leave the calipers out. We're gonna peel off the caliper and then take the pads off, peel the rotor off here, see what things look like I give the guy a quote, see what he wants to do. We're also going to have a peeking on the front brakes and I pulled all four wheels and I could see that there's a front pad left, but the inside of the rotor and typical New York Fashion is pretty Rusty but it's pretty amazing these Chevys you can drive them with the inside of the rotor almost completely destroyed and they drive pretty dang smooth. It's pretty pretty bizarre. Let's get this caliper off here. Make sure the pins and stuff are good. I Think about the right size here. looks like a 13. see what happens? like I say we are coming into the wintertime season so going to be different shop noises I'm gonna hear the furnace running there I'm sure we have to get something to hold that inside pin that wants to twist up. and I don't want to ruin those boots. Classic 20 millimeter. There we go. a little bit of Loctite on them. That's why they come out so hard. Foreign. goes back in. yeah, this outside pad is scorched. We'll just pull the whole bracket off, but they're probably seized up in there. Will be my guess getting 18. Wow First try: Got that swivel socket pinched off pretty tight. I Don't know if I can get up in here. that's pretty snug up in there. Grab this extension, just in case. There we go. Definitely smoked on the outside there, if you guys can see that. hopefully the rotors come off without taking the parking brake shoes with them. That was relatively painless, especially for a seven-year-old truck in. New York Must be it's garage cap or not garage cup, but not driven much in the winter, so we're just going to make sure our piston goes back in. Okay, feels like it is, so there's that. piston appears to be okay. let's have a look at our bracket with double check our pins there. I'm gonna stick this up here for right now. Yep, so that's our outside pad. Should definitely cooked. Is that how you use an air hammer? There's our inside pad. Not too bad. Pins are nice and free so that's good. We don't have to worry about those. Okay now I'm going to do the same thing on the other side in the back, so same same process kind of hang on to our pads and Hardware just in case we need some comparison stuff and just kind of set this to the side. look up all of our torque specs and everything. I'm sure the guy's going to give us the the green light on everything. Caliper, caliper bracket came off okay, pads are seized up. We're about one push away from hitting metal. Uh, beat on this for a while there. with the old wheat saw snap on, it's time to bring out the dog. It's just stuck out in the hub. It won't crack loose here there. that works. Snap on the other obvious alternative somebody could use. You've seen the two holes in the rotor. looked like probably 10 millimeter. You get a couple bolts, stick them in there, and and use it to pry against. The rotors are pretty thin. There's only about two threads in there, so you got to be careful tighten them up. but you can use that to put a little tension pushing out. There's quite a bit of rust buildup on these axle faces, so we'll have to get that all cleaned off. Make sure that the parking brake shoes aren't separating here and they don't look like they are. so rear, just pads and orders. Let's have a look at the front see we're about one pedal pushing away. so that's the rear pad on the left side, you can see it's just starting to hit, so not too bad. Aware for the amount of miles that are on the truck, let's pop the other side off on the front over there and inside pad is rust jacking. Pretty good. I'll show you what that is. We'll take this side apart here. Inside rotor is pretty. Rusty I Think well obviously I'm going to recommend two four wheel brake caps simply because of the rust jacking there. Let's get this caliper peeled off so a couple bolts there. No. Loctite I Noticed there was a 18 mil variety. Peel the caliper off. Let's just check that, make sure it can become depressed very quickly. Just want to make sure both Pistons can push back in. Like I said, this thing doesn't have a ton of rust build up on it, which is pretty unusual for stuff I work on so that goes into the other side. the other one on the other side did also so it doesn't look like we need any calipers or hoses. They're not super. Rusty These pads are actually pretty freed up. You can see there's plenty of brake pad material here on the outside. I Don't see any rust jacking on it. We'll look at this inside one. not that it really matters, but some of you Southerners may not know the term rust jacking, but what happens? You can see this inside pad here. We'll start getting a layer rust between the friction material and the backing plate and it starts actually pushing the black or the friction material right off. I Don't really see it heavily on this one. I'll show you the one on the other side though. Yeah, I Don't really see it here, but then what happens is your whole friction material comes off on one slab. You get a couple spongy petals and then you get some grinding. Foreign. Our pins are moving so that's good if you've got enough. Pizzazz for this thing here. Oh, that was not very tight at all. Oh, somebody's had it off before. Okay, that explains why the front have lots of pad on them. It's got some never seized on. It wasn't very tight at all. Oh yeah, they're actually quite. That's not a super strong impact all right. So we'll set this stuff up behind a lift arm. Everything's good in that regards. Rotors slid right off, but you can see the rust build up on the Inside Edge here and where it starts to just deteriorate and Flake away start losing friction material. but it's weird. Like say well these Chevys come in with literally like a you know, four millimeter strip of shiny material breaks smooth as butter. Here's the inside pad from the driver's side and this is your classic case of rust jacking when you can stick a screwdriver underneath the friction material. I'll show you here I'll get a little heavier screwdriver and show you how that can pop right off, but hopefully that shows up that it's uh, you know, tweaking out like that. So yeah, I can get a screwdriver on there. You can pop your friction material right. Clean off. What the heck man. I'm getting some psycho text. so but that that's what rust jacking is here. When it when it does that, you can see it here on this end too. Same thing, you know, a lot of rust under the friction material and then it starts to pop off. So so yeah, that's it. Pretty simple folks. Front page orders, rear pads orders rust and rust jacking on the front and on the rears were pretty obvious. I've got all the stuff coming from the know-how gonna give this guy a ring? I'm sure he's going to tell me just do it usually always does on his other vehicles and then we'll get after it getting things cleaned up. Man, what a crazy day it has been here at the shop. Uh, percher here. We're gonna start by removing the rust the best we can. It's kicked on there. pretty good. Just use some 36 grit cookie Wheels here. Start buffing her down can't get behind the studs very well so we'll get in there with the file and just kind of scrape it off. foreign film on there trying to slow that process down as much as we can. We'll stick this baby back on there. Oops, there's that. Grab our retainers, you just Pawn them back down flat. if you want to reuse them, you don't have to. It just keeps the rotor from falling off when there's no caliper backing on it. Not really necessary. so if yours are missing, don't fret. so. I'm gonna take our caliper bracket. We're gonna go clean the rust off it where the pad ears sit, Get that all shined up as usual because this is typically where the problem is going to happen. Here in the Rust Belt we'll pull our pins out, make sure they're all good. Oh not bad. These little guys out. Whip some of the schmoo off and make sure the groove up here is not all packed full of rust. They don't put much of a groove on those suckers and we'll take put a little bit of silicone grease on there, just smear it around. slide that pin on. Like so the same thing on this one. they're gonna have some air stuck behind them. Not a big deal there. Push it in, sometimes, push it and wiggle them a little bit. there will come out sometimes. We've got to reach back here with a little screwdriver. Let's get right up under that lip. There, push it in and put your screwdriver out. Same thing here. Just work it up under that lip. Don't don't cut your boot. Be very careful about that. And then there you go. I'd rather have a little suction pulling them in instead of pushing them out. brackets all blasted off. If you don't have a sand blaster, you're gonna have to use a file like guys. Actually, these are actually caliper files. I've got the smaller size. it fits. you know, down inside the groove. They're pretty great. But you can't just wire wheel it. The wire wheel just essentially shines up. The rust doesn't really dig it out of there, and if you don't get it all out, you will have a hard time getting your pads back in. Um, you should never have to file your pads or grind them down. You know, anything like that? or grind down your brat. If you do, there's there's something wrong. Either your pads are this really crappy quality or you didn't get rid of all the rust. So we're going to put a little bit of grease in here to help slow down that rust. Keep it from forming again. Not really for any lubrication type purposes. If you have lots of time and you can clean off your bracket and uh and paint them, that would be the best. You get a you know coat of primer, Get some paint in there, if not, just grease them up well. The grease will usually last the brake job if you're using some good quality. Hardware at least in my experience, that's what I've noticed. Uh, let's see, we've got the paint it down here. inch glass, sk83, 12 axis pin, or our Squealer rather on the inside Leading Edge of the rotor. We'll get our Hardware fit on here fitted. There's that screws going on the inside. like I said, your pad should push in nice and easy. once you get it in the groove, I'm going to be slippery little suckers. Get your pattern there like I say the ears you know should be able to move nice and easy on it, shouldn't have force and never tap them in or anything like that. or you know, like say, or grinding the grind the gears down. I should never have to grind the ears so they go in there nice and smooth. We'll get our bolts here. the blue Loctite like. so let's set them there. for right now, we'll put the bracket up on the rotor. Okay, let's start here. Count right away with our Kelp is already. That's all set there. You go foreign. Get these things torqued down. These ones are 148 foot-pounds This is the Jd9 brake option on this. Chevrolet I Think they have like three brake codes for this depending on how it's outfitted. There's that bad boy and we'll just throw a caliper on now before we put the caliper on. As we always do, we put a little grease inside all the metal to metal contacts and that's gonna you know, potentially stop. Some squealing issues should always grease all your metal to metal contacts. That piston came out a little bit. Yeah, you have to push that piston in a little bit but I don't want to get stuff uh I want to get it all over grease all over my pushback tool so we'll just use a C-clamp to push it in. It just came out a little bit from pushing in the other. Pistons So resigned. a piston face grease on the back side of the ears. You don't have to go crazy with it. Okay, let me get something. squeeze that back in. White grips here shouldn't go in very difficult. didn't poke out very far. We'll slide that up on here and I believe. Yeah these bolts have not tight on them too. So these ones here. so I'm gonna put a dab of Loctite on those the front ones didn't the rear ones did I think that's the way service data kind of stated. Also that quite a procedure for putting on their Loctite we just don't have stuff to wiggle off and lactite works a little bit like anti-seize in the sense that, well, the bolt won't fall out for one and two. It, you know, essentially plugs the thread so you can't really get corrosion down and then those bolts on that are 38 . I have to hold the pin there from turning. There's that one. What do we hit? 40? 40.4 There's that one. 40.2 All right, good deal. That's it. We're just done. let's go knock the front out. Same thing here, just a little different. Clean all the rough stuff. These ones are actually pretty clean. Not too bad here. We'll still give them a little bit of the Blaster this is not PB Blaster We don't even have to be Blaster Fluid film. Wow. Well, let's find a rotor here. Line that baby up, grab your T27 or your T30 This bolt does have some sort of torque spec like 109 inch pounds. Uh, finger tight I Took the liberty of sandblasting the bracket when I did the rear. However, we're still going to check the pins. We're gonna pull them out, wipe them off, re-grease them just like we did on the back. It's been quite a madhouse today trying to get a simple breakout done. We've had a ton of appointments. My other one just showed up got to put a complete exhaust system onto Nissan So if you want to check out that video uh, you know, click the little Banner that pops up here and you can watch me put exhaust system under Nissan Otherwise, stick around. We'll be back in the Chevy and well, right now we've got the Nissan cranked out of here. We'll finish this baby up. That's how our typical videos go folks. I Mean even though they look like you know, we're just working on this Chevy From first thing in the morning, we pulled it in and just knocking it out. All right. You know everything right in a row here. I Guess we're just. that's not how it typically goes. if I'm doing a video. usually I'll fix several cars in between working on a video because usually the car I'll I'll do a video on is you know, maybe one out of every 15 or 20 cars we actually work on. But it's usually like, you know, one that can have its time taken meant a lot for words. It's one that the customer is not a big yank for. There's a general rule: depends depends on the type of job I guess but if I recorded everything that came in, you guys should be bored and I'd be busy. So we're going to stick our Hardware here. I already cleaned the front pins I don't remember if we recorded that or not but I think my word for it, Stick our pads in here. patch it slipping nice and easy. These have little retainers on it so it does have the springs that push it back out. but it has these little retainers that well supposed to have that keeps them from flying out. so we'll get some lactate here now. The front bolts if you guys remember, had never seized on them I Took and just clean that off, cleaned out the hole. We'll stick some Loctite back on them where that is. We'll stick them back up on here. Josh is over there doing a breakdown on a 19 Chevy I Think the Rock Box a truck that he's working on I bet he ain't gonna have five years left in it and it'll be in the salvage yard. It's pretty bad shape for 19 30, 000 miles you just over there trying to beat the parts off. It's a daily dirt road driver so it's pretty well smoked. Of course it's got that new style GM Brake system with the plastic leaf springs and they just go from bad to worse every year. I Think See, these are uh, 170 I Wrote down 170 on this one. Tiger type foreign caliper is already pushed back cleaned up. We just need to add a little bit of grease to it just like we did in the rear. Once that's done, we can flip that baby out. Make sure you don't have any pigtail acrylic cues in your brake hose. Slipping on that top pin. Slide her down. Now these didn't have any. Loctite They're torqued down. to a whopping 74 foot pounds if I remember correctly or if I wrote it down correctly. I'm gonna start getting this thing cranked up here. You've got our socket. now. You may have to reach in and hold that pin with your 20 mil. There should be enough friction there. Pull that up 78. pretty close. beautiful. And then the caliper should slide. and it does. and that's it now. Uh, put your tires on it. take it for a shake. Foreign little baby pumps I Already checked the brake fluid, it's full. I'll double check when I get back because obviously it just took up some space. You guys are wondering why I had that cord hanging under the hood and that's because I leave the vehicle in neutral. um, and shut the key off which doesn't turn off technically all the way. So I just leave a maintainer on there on power supply mode. foreign just because I know I'm going to get Interrupted about 50 times throughout the video. a bit quieter already. Go our little brake burnishing route here. Foreign folks, that's putting the brakes all the way around your Jb-9 Jd9 brake system on your 2016 whatever this thing is. Chevrolet GMC It's got the lever. Uh, the hole in the roof, chubby rubber. It's got it all. And what I need you to do is give it all to me down in that comment section, questions, comments, concerns, insty almost forgot the sign the Facebook You guys know what to do. Just remember viewers, if I can do it, you can do it. Thanks for watching Foreign.

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