Hello everybody! Good day to you! Welcome back! Glad you guys are here! This is a 2016 Kia Sedona It's a miniature people hauling van and it has approximately I don't even know 138 519 miles on the odometer. uh. Customer stated maintenance and we've done a large amount of maintenance on this. Uh Sedona Earlier this week we've got a brand new set of front friction material.

We have a brand new set of rear friction material that's pads and rotors. We did an oil change on it. We're finishing up with a coolant service on it. We did a brake fluid exchange on it, we did a transmission fluid exchange on it, and now we're going to get to the good part.

and the good part. Lies Beneath This ginormous intake manifold assembly right here. Well, half of it does, half of it's right here, and the other half is Way Back Down Yonder So what we're going to do is, uh, we're gonna pull this intake off and we're going to pull the ignition coils out and check out our secondary ignition components. Now this is going to be a rather large job so we're gonna get right into it.

so stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video happenings. There was a great Rudder Now this is a fairly large job so we're gonna get right into it. I've got lots of stuff to do today. We have a full shop.

We have a full parking lot. Those things don't count, but the rest of that stuff's out there and it's waiting to come in here. so we need to get this thing done and out so we can get those things back in the building. Now when looking at a conglomeration such as this, it can often be intimidating and you got to wonder.

You know where do we start? And what I like to do is just start at the beginning. You know you get what's closest to you. You take apart what you know you have to take apart and then kind of just work your way down from there. So since there's really no Clear Point to start, we're gonna just go at it.

right from the air intake, we know that has to come off because the intake manifold has to come off. So what I'm going to do is we're going to start pulling connectors and we're going to pull this intake tubing off. Once that's off, it'll give us access to something else. we can take that off and so on and so forth et cetera et cetera.

Etc So that's sort of, uh, going to be the plan of attack. I'm probably going to remove things that I don't need to remove I'm probably going to forget to remove things that do need to be removed, but we'll figure that out as it goes on. So we're just going to peel back some connectors without breaking the connectors I Hate it when connectors get damaged during service because then they don't go back and it's ugly. We don't like ugly.

The best kinds of jobs are the ones that you can't tell that someone has done. That's the goal here. Leave only. Footprints Here we go here.

Let's disconnect this. uh, evap purge solenoid hose right here. Let's walk that back. Stick that thing aside.

we can disconnect our positive crankcase ventilation hose. Give me back my glove. Give me that. I'm going to twist this first to no, that's not going to come off.

Feels scary. Yeah, it's not breaking free there. we go. foreign on this intake ducting right here.

We'll twist it so it breaks loose and then push it away. There we go. Okay, we've got two 10 millimeters. those are on the clamps.

Pull those off because I wonder if I should just pull this hole air box out. We'll see I Don't know if I've ever done this job on this particular truck before. truck van. Alrighty, as it turns out, I do need to remove this this hair box.

I Don't think I can remove that ducting with a pulling this out which is no big deal, it's just that snorkel looks like there's a 10 right here and another 10 over here. Let's pull these guys out or not, they seem to be captured in the in the air box here and I'm gonna have to pull the battery out too because I can't get the air box to come and fit out because it's being captured by this uh, brake. Well, looks like it happened again. I Had an audio failure with the GoPro and this was with an external mic.

I Purchased a powered mic and it looks like one of my Uh receivers in the powered mic has a crappy battery so this died mid sentence. Anyway, as I was saying this break, uh, brake master cylinder reservoir is capturing the intake box and I can't get the intake box out because the battery is in the way. So I'm pulling the clamp. Looks like the cables have already been removed on this battery.

I'm gonna lug this thing out of here and get it out of the way. You can see there's two 10 millimeter bolts right there securing that air box. Looks like I've already removed them and there's a grommet and a big pin in the back. So I'm just reaching back and disconnecting.

Oh the uh. intake snorkel hose. That's what it is. When they haven't been removed for a while, they get really stuck and I'm just trying to pry that off of the throttle body.

You can't just pull on it because if you pull it squeezes tighter or it's going to slip off and you'll cut your hand on something. But once you break that surface adhesion between the two components and they no longer have that bond between them, they they should slide off. See how this is coming off? There it is okay. Air box is coming out, that's out of the way now.

I can kind of Wiggle this thing get the tubing out and we need to pull the throttle body. Look at the bottom of that throttle body, you're going to see two hoses going on to it and those are actually coolant hoses. It's like a bypass designed to heat the throttle body. We're gonna just disassemble that or disconnect it rather with the four bolts.

I Think it's 410 mils. We're just going to disconnect that and lay it off to the side that way. I don't have to take those coolant hoses off and then crack into the cooling system. Should just be four of them.

I Think if memory serves, yeah, four long ones does get just kind of set down up on the wiper cowl and we can just kind of Tuck that thing down off to the side right behind it. There's this big PCV hose that wraps around from the bank to valve cover up to the top of the intake manifold. so I've got to reach in there and disconnect that too. Also, there is the brake booster vacuum hose.

that's the one I'm working on right now and again. Those pieces are stuck together so if you just give them a little bit of a twist, not so much where you tear the rubber, but twist it enough where it starts to break that. Bond You can rock it back and forth and eventually there'll be a reduced amount of friction and it'll come off of there. but again, you got to be careful not to poke, not to poke holes in it.

Aggressive pull irons will, uh, we'll cut those things to pieces. So if you have aggressive pliers, you just can't really squeeze very hard. Now this. PCV hose right here.

This one's super awkward because the clamps are pointed away from me both of them and it looks like the upper clamp is going to be the easiest one to get off. Fortunately, it's It's slipping off these needle noses and every time it slips, it points farther and farther and farther away. That seems to be making this a little harder. Okay, now that that clamp is free I need to go back in with these pliers and again, just twist that hose some.

I can't twist it or torque on it very hard because the fitting that it goes into in the intake manifold is actually part of the intake manifold and it's plastic. So if I break that thing I just broke the intake manifold and there's probably no way to actually repair that. So if I break it off, we're done. So using the wrong method or the wrong pliers or even prying against it and not realizing you're putting like a side load on it, that could cause that that nipple on that thing to break off.

So it looks like here I Just went in with a pocket screwdriver and dug under the hose to break that uh, that adhesion there that Bond And the hose came right off. No worries. Now, on the back of this intake manifold, there is a power steering hose bracket that has two 10 millimeter nuts or bolts. and there's also a stabilizer bracket that's designed to come off of the back of the cylinder head and then bolt onto the back of the intake.

And that's just to provide some rigidity to the intake. That way you can't wobble around and vibrate and rock back and forth and potentially work gaskets loose or even break. All right. So at this point, I've managed to disconnect that power steering hose bracket in the back of the intake that you can't see and I've also bear hugged this engine long enough to get the 14 millimeter bolt out that is part of the support bracket on the back of the intake.

I'm almost ready to start on bolting this unit, but there's this wiring harness conglomeration in the way that's actually bolted down, so we're just disconnecting any connectors that are holding onto that and pulling that thing away so we have some access to the actual bolts for the upper intake manifold. Looks like it's uh, disconnected here. Yep Looks good and I think we've got four, five, six, seven, eight, Fasteners on this manifold. They're all going to be of the 10 millimeter variety.

I'm just going in here with the quarter inch Drive Impact Driver and we're just pulling all those Fasteners loose on the corners. There's going to be two nuts and then the rest of it will be I think those were M8 bolts with a 10 millimeter head. so there's four of those in the front and then two larger longer ones right in the middle of the three intake. Runners See them right there with a little white gaskets in the bottom of them.

Now it tricked me at first I Just tried to pick this thing up and it was still bolted on. but no matter, two more to go, we will unclickage these things and pull this guy out. For the record, it's weird to say on clickage while not actually in the moment back to normal since I took the my microphone thing off the camera again, it was a good idea. but I guess the receiver of the mic was turned on while it was in my briefcase and it was turned on all day and I didn't notice so the battery died.

Yay! Regardless, now the intake manifold is off and we can now get to our ignition coils. So the front three were easiest. They were right here. but the back three, these were the ones that were the challenge.

So all we need to do at this point is get these guys disconnected. So what I need to do is push back this little black piece. Then we can push on the connector release and then slide it off. So do the same thing here on this one, on the right or on the middle.

Rather, come on out of there. don't break it, appreciate you hear it click. That's the tab disconnecting. We're setting back there we go and Uno mas right here.

Push that one back. All right. Three disconnected. Pull the harness out of the way and now if we pull the 10 mils out of the coils, Got it all right.

Coil One: It's not really one. I don't know what cylinder that is I didn't look. the coils are coming out. there's two of them and numeral twice.

Alrighty, so while we're here, let's go ahead and pluck out these intake manifold gaskets. I have a new set on the way. Oh, it's one gasket. Look at that thing was flattened and nasty.

Let's stick some protection on here so we don't drop things down inside of the hole and then have to fish them out with a magnet or even worse on knowingly drop things in the hole like dirt. Plus if I don't do it, you guys will freak out on me and that's never good. All right. let's get in there and pull out our uh, our plugs and see what they're looking like here.

So the best of our knowledge, these are original spark plugs in this engine and the survey says we're looking at they're in Gks IRS Look at the carbon on that thing. Yeah, these are the OES The electrode looks a little worn out. Yep, good time to replace these. Goodbye, All right, that's one removed.

Let's pluck out the other two back here. This one some similar condition. Okay, unclicks and that was the same as the others. Alrighty, alrighty, new spark plugs coming in.

These are, uh, the OE equivalent. It's a different part number, but they are Ngks and they are Platinums. I Think these are the G Power Platinums Something like that. Let's get these guys started down in the hole.

We'll run them down, make them tight, and we can go on to the front side after the intake goes back on. The front side's the super easy side. Forward Electron quickages I'm not letting the tool apply power torque to this once it bottoms out. see that you do it by hand.

The tool is just there to speed things up. Good, tight, Wonderful. All right. We've got all three of our ignition coils here.

Let's give it a squirt of dielectric. keep moisture out and these guys can go right back where they belong. Click those down over the plugs, plug them in, and tighten them down. There we go.

Good! So we've got three 10 millimeter Fasteners here. Fasted these coils down to the valve cover here. Good, a little bit of forward torque on those. Alrighty, let's get our new intake manifold gasket set up on the lower intake.

I Think it's gonna go. It's gonna go one of four ways. upside down. left or right or inside out and backwards.

Okay, that fits nicely. All right. Good to go. Let's get the intake in here, bolt it on, Then we'll get those front uh spark plugs.

Very nice. Come back in and we're gonna make sure that the audio does not go anywhere this time. I'll tell you things come in waves. like.

Never had these problems before and all of a sudden I'm ruining my own videos. Try to make them better, you buy better stuff and then it doesn't work because it's 2023 and nothing works. and then it ruins your video. Unbelievable.

Oh well. I'll get over it. I'll be fine. no worries there.

Let's get our bolts set up here. That's the big one. second, big one. we're gonna thread all the bolts in before we try to tighten them right there.

Saw how that one didn't turn, but then I wiggled the thing around. Then it turned. You gotta watch out for that. Alrighty, so we've got the two 10 mil nuts.

Those go on the back corners of the manifold of the manifold studs. There's another one over here on this side. Then we've got our four shorter 10 mil bolts to go and the front of the manifold right here. Drop those guys in there we go and let's get these tightened down a little bit.

All right there we go. All right. We need some actual clicks on these Fasteners incoming torque wrench next foreign, the other back one and then the long ones. There we go.

All right bolts are all torqued Fasteners are fastened. Let's start getting some connectors connected. We're done on this section of our manifold. Let's see here that one's it's our map sensor.

You've got on the rest of these and we've got some fasteners for this wire harness here. a couple of those. they're the ones with the big washers on them because they are fastening plastic against the washers are for a larger contact area. To me, 10 mil coming back in and that's all through these good.

Let's see over here we've got. there's a connector. There is a connector. No, no, no, no, no, did I get them all See? can't put that on yet because I need to reach around and get those.

uh those. Fasteners on the back side for the brackets. All right, we're cooking now. I Got the bracket bolts in.

Let's get our hoses re-hosed This clamp's got to go back. That's that weird goofy one that I had a hard time getting a hold of earlier. Let's put that guy back on. Flip it around so the next guy can't take it off either because that's where it goes I know I'm horrible all right.

What a terrible thing of horrible human being. Look at the Uh there. We'll get the Uh brake booster, vacuum line on a little that connector back or clamp rather down back where it goes and then let's see that goes to the air box. Let us get our throttle body back in position here.

Actually, you know, before we do that, let me spray the back of this out. It's got a little bit of carbon and whatnot builds up in there. Couldn't hurt to clean it out All right. We just need a little bit of spray.

Nothing crazy. Get some spray on it, open the valve, go in there with a towel, wipe it out there. we go nice and Tiny and same thing on the Uh on the top side here. Good to go.

Okay, now we'll put our throttle body back on. Get that guy bolted back together again. That's just these Uh. four 10 mil bolts next one next one again and then the next one after those next ones there.

see I Like this method. now we don't have put back on three and fourth click. There we go. All right.

let's back it up some and we'll get our air box and plumbing reassembled over here. First we need to get this uh, flex pipe in that's gonna squeeze. How did this go I think it went I Do not remember. It goes this way.

It goes like that. somehow somewhere trying to figure out where that baffle is supposed to rest. I Think it's like right there we go I got it. I Figured it out good.

Okay, let's start getting some more hoses connected so the all the mess is cleaned up and everything starts to look organized again. It'll help me spot things that may have been overlooked like more hoses and connectors. That's the worst. man.

You get through a job like this and you left one hose off or something. silly. It's never okay. Let's plug that one in one more clamp right there.

Good to go. All right. The air box is coming in next and we need to line up this grommet right here with that little Peg right there and then slip the hose into the the ductwork here so we're just gonna bend that out of the way. I'm gonna push this thing back up and over the motor mount slash transmission mount.

Slide the hose on to get that extra bit of space and then the peg, push that down the hole. There good so we can clamp our clamp There we go. and then the two bolts down below that one get in there. What is this? Who knew it has become misaligned there? Got it? Flicks? Beautiful.

All right right here. We've got another connector that plugs into the box and then that goes to the mass airflow sensor which is also in the Box here. All right battery coming in. Let's pick up our positive cable assembly and set that aside so we don't smash it and then I can drop the battery down without smashing the flanges.

We get our bracket, set that thing down, line up the bolt which I got that? we can tighten this while we're here and a socket change for the bracket. 12 mil coming in. 15 bracket. clickage negative cable.

got it? Tighten that guy down just a wee bit. Cables are tight. Let's get our snorkel on. Slip that in, bend it, push it in, flip it on.

Good to go. The snorkel is fastened with two little plastic push clip pin bangs and stick those in the hole and push them down. That thing is secure all right. Now for the easy part, let's get the last three spark plugs and coils again.

Three more bolts. spin these guys right on out and pull the coils out. Look at that. We don't even have to disconnect them.

There's enough wire here. I Can just set it off to the side. I Probably could have done that with the rear coils also, but I didn't think about it. Let's get in here and pop these guys out.

Similar condition to the others in the rear, not enough. Yep, that one's about the same. Oh hit you guys in my electron ratchet. sorry I didn't mean to strike you.

Oh, look at that one. it's kind of rusty. All right, All right, let's do an extension change on our wobble spark plug socket. We get the new plug set up in the socket longer extension Down in the Hole started and Runner down.

clear that's one two. You know something just occurred to me: I actually have eight of these spark plugs I Don't know if I ordered eight for a V6 or if they sent me. Uh, either way, you have to go back there we go and then last one right? Yeah. Drop this guy down, give it a couple turns, become entice.

These there we are. avoid it to go. let's get some, uh, some lube insertion going on here. that coil next coil.

oh by the way I know you're going to ask or somebody is why did I go through all this work to pull the intake manifold and we did not replace the valve cover gaskets? Two reasons: Number one, they're not leaking and number two, the valve cover gaskets call for a much much more labor than just the spark plugs and intake, so we don't really see the reason to spend extra money right now to do something that uh, well, it's not a problem, that's why All right Spark plugs are on. Good to go. let's hit the key and stopping. Z Engine All right here we go.

Beginning engine stop in Stockwinds. Now it is alive. Excellent. Foreign.

all right guys. The thing runs. it doesn't misfire. Its maintenance has been brought back to life.

We got to add some coolant, but that's gonna happen later because Troy was working on the rest of this stuff and I'm gonna have him finish it. but right now he's over there doing some AC work. So first time I haven't finished that. So that being said, I'm gonna go ahead and finish this right now because my section of this repair is complete.

So having said all that, like to thank you guys for watching this video as always. hope you enjoyed this video. If you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below. Don't forget to tap that like button while you're down there and most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day! See you guys later in the video in Ikea in a tune up into spark plugs into transmission.