High Idle Mod Video! Useless Feature? Adding Wires to a $1300 ECM 6.6 Duramax Lbz Sierra Silverado https://youtu.be/7f9Wn5w735U
Found a Clogged Condenser Earlier...Mechanic Ignores Problem! 2x Extreme Over pressure!! AC Sierra Silverado 5.3 6.0 6.6 Duramax Lbz HD https://youtu.be/oTwQacTDXIE
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Amazon List, must have for any toolbox! Astro 7824 Bearing Race and Seal Driver Master Set https://amzn.to/3qhYxva
1: Astro Tools 52SL 500x2 Lumen Wirelessly Rechargeable Folding Double-Sided LED Slim Light, & 52SLC 500x2 Lumen Folding Double-Sided LED Slim Light W/Wireless Charging Pad https://amzn.to/3Jd2h6t
2: Mountain 5-Piece Metric Double Box Universal Spline Reversible Ratcheting Wrench Set; 8 mm - 18mm, 90 Tooth Design, Long, Flexible, Reversible; MTNRM6 https://amzn.to/3OJTRp2
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
Found a Clogged Condenser Earlier...Mechanic Ignores Problem! 2x Extreme Over pressure!! AC Sierra Silverado 5.3 6.0 6.6 Duramax Lbz HD https://youtu.be/oTwQacTDXIE
Located in Florida? Need work done?? Visit More at RainmanRaysRepairs.com
Support the Channel with a Like and Subscribe!
Become a Channel Member or Patreon at: https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
Visit our Second Channel on YouTube, RainmanRay Off Duty https://www.youtube.com/c/RainmanRayOutoftheShop
Follow on Twitter: @RainmanRay4Real
TikTok: www.tiktok.com/ @rainman_rays_repairs
More at RainmanRaysRepairs.com
Check out my Merchandise shop for Men's and Women's Apparel, MUGS and Stickers! https://rainmanraysrepairs.myspreadshop.com/
Support the channel on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
Patreon is a "Tip Jar" I don't post much there, daily YT uploads are all that I can manage for now
Amazon List, must have for any toolbox! Astro 7824 Bearing Race and Seal Driver Master Set https://amzn.to/3qhYxva
1: Astro Tools 52SL 500x2 Lumen Wirelessly Rechargeable Folding Double-Sided LED Slim Light, & 52SLC 500x2 Lumen Folding Double-Sided LED Slim Light W/Wireless Charging Pad https://amzn.to/3Jd2h6t
2: Mountain 5-Piece Metric Double Box Universal Spline Reversible Ratcheting Wrench Set; 8 mm - 18mm, 90 Tooth Design, Long, Flexible, Reversible; MTNRM6 https://amzn.to/3OJTRp2
3: NOCO E404 12.25 Oz Battery Terminal Cleaner Spray and Corrosion Cleaner with Acid Detector https://amzn.to/3ILbdjv
My Camera Gear:
Gopro Hero 10 https://amzn.to/3AaxELe
Hero 9&10 Dual Battery Charger MUST HAVE! https://amzn.to/3g5KdAT
Flexible Camera Mount https://amzn.to/3Jywrk5
#brakecleanmafia #wifeunit #rainman #comnissionearned #mechanic #technician #dealer #independent #autorepair
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Also, I personally use or have used the products featured in my links and only recommended them if I feel they are of good quality.
”Intro Music by Karl Casey @ White Bat Audio”
Thanks to Jesse for making the intro and graphic for us to enjoy!!!
“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
That's it I can't take it anymore I Give up I capitulate. It's too hot. I've waited far too long I'm initiating the parts cannon on the 2007 Chevrolet Silverado it's a 3500 Dually the Duramax and for the mileage count, update we have on this truck approximately 459 miles. No.
I'm just kidding. that's the range. 229 850 miles on the odometer. So after a quarter million miles I Still cannot get a decent cold temperature out of my Center vents on the AC I Realize it's 96 97 degrees outside, but it red lights the temp is ticking up to like 75 degrees.
It's too hot. The compressor I'm certain has crapped out. We've already put a condenser in it because that condenser had a clog. uh.
I've had the evaporator opened up and I've done evaporator flushes on it. That thing seems to flow. We've replaced the orifice assembly and have found, uh, minimal debris in there. but last time I serviced this I could not really get the temps and the pressures that I wanted.
So because of that I I'm gonna go ahead and change out the compressing unit. This thing's been here a quarter million miles. We know what it's not. Uh, last time around I attempted to change this hose right here.
It went down to the condenser but uh, that was actually the wrong one that I ordered it bolted on but it was the incorrect hose. It was leaking at the fittings. So because of that I've also got the correct replacement hose. and as I mentioned in the last video, I was going to change out the suction hose and I was going to change the receiver dryer which is back down over here attached to that low side fitting.
Now as you can see, I've already got the machine powered on and let's go ahead and recover all the refrigerant out of this unit because we are opening up the uh the system here and what I need to do is get some light on the subject over here. we're gonna get the belt loose, pull these lines off after the machine is done I need to lose I think this uh top plastic right here to get to the other side of that line and we probably have to the intake off. So I got a bunch of stuff to do and not a lot of time to do it because it is end of day on Friday and I've done all that I can do so far. but I need to get something for me done because it's it's just too hot all right.
So like I mentioned, first thing I need to do here is get this big plastic shroud cover thing off so I can get to one of the fittings on the hoses and then we can work our way back towards the compressor. As soon as the machine is done recovering, we can crack the lines open I'll uh, I'll get that intake off so I can get down to the belt tensioner and then we'll get the belt off and pull the compressing unit one more way back over. today covers off. There's that fitting that we're looking for.
All right. let's back it on up and move around. Let's go ahead and get this: Banks air intake removed. we're mass airflow connector here.
we go. set that aside right there and I'll pull these clamps right here and right here. We'll get one of those off and then the four screws on the lid that will expose our air filters which, uh, you're timing I suppose because I haven't checked this filter in a couple of months. All right, All right, well don't mind the AC hoses. they'll be out of the way in a moment. We've got four these stainless steel screws here on this lid and once these are gone, I can pull the intake off. It'll give us some more space to get to the hoses on this side and the tensioner for the belt which is I'm actually going to cheat on that tensioner. uh, I have to pull the fan shroud up to get the tensioner tool on there.
so instead I'm just going to use the pry bar against the pulley. I'm cheating, but it's mine and I can do that so we can barely see. But right here is that's our belt tensioner and the pulley is below that and then the little square cut out is behind this piece of the span shroud now. I Can't really get a tool onto it because we have to go through that little uh little piece of bracketry.
I'm thinking maybe if I pull this section of shroud off I can put an extension on it. Let me try that first before. I Uh I go full bore in there with pry bars and stuff. Looks like I need to remove the transmission control module from the Shroud that's this guy right over there.
They're getting B to be very rare and expensive. those TCMS I don't want to hurt it. so this thing is held onto the Shroud it looks like just a with like a little plastic retainer clip down there. Let me pull this guy back and we'll try to unconnect this module.
There's one of our push pin connectors and one is missing. There should be one more or no, maybe not. It hinges There we go it. hooks and hinges.
so we'll set our module down right over here. You stay safe and we've got one more little connector, a little push pin thing down here at the shroud. Got that one out and the top piece of the Shroud should just come right on out of there fan shroud. Okay, so this didn't give me a boatload of space in here, but I did get enough to where I think I can run an extension and a ratchet through and get it onto that tensioner right there to relieve the tensioner's pressure on the belt.
And once the belt's loose. Uh, we're a smooth sailing here. Uh oh, we're going deeper than I thought. Look at what I found.
See the tensioner and then the pulley right there. Look down. there's a piece of that pulley that is broken. See that.
So now we're going to put a tensioner in it too. Okay, let me go get that ordered and we'll continue disassembling. this job. Just snowballed.
Look at that. Yeah. Quick. easy job.
spiraling out of control here. Wobble extension for the wind. Hopefully I don't have to take this entire interior shroud out. Maybe I can just bend it back some far enough to get that tensioner bolt out of there. and I think I think that'll work All right? So what I'm gonna do here is we're going to reach down in and I'm going to pass this extension. It's a half inch Drive Extension through the fan and we're going to plug it into the square cut out receptacle Notch thing. see right there by my thumb. Right there it is.
We're going to plug that into the tensioner and then I'm going to go in with the half inch ratchet and untension said tensioner. Then we can get the belt off. Slip this guy on pretty tight. Squeeze down there.
you're gonna need two hands in I Need to press in on this thing to get it to snap into place. sorry if I'm in the way I Cannot reach get up. No fine. I think I can probably reach it.
Not a chance I can't I can't get in there. come on. Perhaps a long magnet on a stick? We'll fetch this half inch drive ratchet hope so we can kind of ease it up some. I don't have enough magnetism I'm gonna have to use compound magnets multiple magnets if I could stand it up.
I can I can get to it? Oh man, come here. Got it there? It's ruining the radiator. Not that part I was already like that. All right, going back in.
round two, trying again for the squeeze this ratchet onto that extension. Come on stupid thing. the extensions wobbly and it's wobbling out of alignment here. I can't put the extension on the ratchet first.
Oh man, you got you got. Hang on now. Sorry. Okay, it's on, but it's pointed too far down so we're coming back up, clicking the ratchet back into reverse so this is some backup torque on it.
There goes our tensioner. It's releasing I need to readjust again. get another click out of the ratchet I Know the camera's all over folks. I'm trying here.
There you go. one tension or tensioner and then I'll go ahead and pull the belt off. There we go. Just like that.
let this thing kind of slide back, catching it so it doesn't snap and fling off in the other direction. Now I can take it back out. there. we go.
That was quite the accomplishment in my opinion. Okay, so now I can get to since the belt is off I can pull that 15 millimeter bolts off front of this tensioner and remove that unit. so let's do that next now. I certainly did not intend new.
Uh, go this deep under this job I kind of wanted to be done by now, but that's how it's got to be. You know I actually had intended or I will have to and intended to go in here this deep in a couple of weeks because I'm going to go ahead and move on that dual alternator setup that I was stewing over for the I don't know the past year or so. It turns out these LBZ Duramaxes had a provision on them where from the factory when they were equipped in a medium duty or like an ambulance package. you could get the vehicle with the two alternators and because of that, the only thing that it's missing is one of the side brackets. So uh, I'm gonna go ahead and buy a second alternator. it's going to be the same part number, same size. I'm going to get one more alternator and I think the auxiliary alternator is going to be like a maybe like a 250 or 270 amp I think that's 120 and I will run overdrive pulleys on both of them that way, even at idle speed, I'll have enough amperage to pretty much run whatever I want? Um, the issue is I've got to replace the belt with a longer belt and I have to add an idler pulley to the front of the engine and again, all that stuff is equipped. or it's it's all there.
The holes are there for the mounts and brackets. I've just got to buy the bolts and The Idler and the belt. so this is going to come off of here at some point in the future when I'm ready to do that second alternator job. What for now? since I saw that this thing is broken I'm gonna have to replace this so looks like I'm just gonna have to do my job twice.
I'm trying to get that stud bolt nut thing out of there without taking the Shroud off. That's what's taking so long. it's working out, but it's not very easy. but I know you can't see.
So yeah, I'm kind of working that bolt and it's going under this piece of the shroud. There we go. Now it's off. Come on out.
Tensioner. Oh man, look at that I think it's bust. clean off. surprised it wasn't Uh, chewing up my belt thing.
could have thrown the belt. it's not okay and look at that. All right? Well, I got a new one on the way. so now we can move on to the compressor and these hoses.
All right. Moving on around to the AC compressor. let's finish getting that cycling switch or high side switch. disconnected one hose, another hose so it looks like we're needing two 13 mil.
Again, the system's already discharged. Get that one disconnected. next. Set these aside.
All right. Since our discharge hose is disconnected again, let's pull the same hose off of the evaporator side another 13 nut. Let's not drop it. Don't spin it.
Ray Oh, I'm dropping it. There it is. So that's the other side of our hose. Let's dig this thing.
Back out of here and compare it with its replacement. I Wanted to change this hose like I said last time. I had this apart but uh, it was leaking because I had the wrong one, wrong replacement and I had found that the difference was actually the way that the ends were machined. One of them had these gaskets for a seal and then the other other design had an O-rate for the seal.
The design that I had was the O-ring type, not the gasketed type. Looks like it is the correct component. I Have to change that switch back out and put that thing on this. but I can do that later.
So let's get this guy in position and connect it. We'll pull off our little protective cap. There's our nut. Get that thing started.
The bottom of that little manifold is inside of the line so everything's lined up. Let's get this thing torqued on easy time. Wobbly click. Okay, here's our pressure switch from the old line. We'll transfer this guy right on over. We had a new O-ring on it and now that's tight. This is ready to go back on our compressor when it's time. So we have the belt loose.
We have this hose removed, Compressor is disconnected. We need four bolts. One two, three four. We'll pull this unit right on out of here.
Set that aside right there. All right. 15 on a wobble extension coming in. Let's break these mounting bolts loose here.
There's one a little dose, third one, and the last one right there. All right. They're all loose. Probably could have broken those loose, but uh, my impact.
but I figured since it was going to go on to an extension, it probably might not. Whoa. might not have the Charlie guys. You're falling all over the torque that one.
Very good. Okay, she's unbolted and loose. Okay, all the compressing unit is free. Nothing else is holding it in.
Let's pull this thing out of here All right. Set it up over here next to our new one. Give it a comparison. So how many ribs do we have? One, two, three, four, five, one, two, three four five.
That's the same. This is the same amounts of the same connectors, the same back side, the same, and our new units coming in. I'm gonna go right back into the same place. Let's slip the belt on so it doesn't fall off something.
and I have to reroute it all over again so we'll put that back and get our bolts dropped in and tighten down. Excellent! My tensioners just arrived so we can move back to the tensioner install next. Yeah, this is definitely the hard part. Do this ASAP and plug our hose in.
It's good for there for right now. Put this guy back in that Port so it cannot become contaminated. Bolt on and we've got one plug right here on our switch. plug that guy back in and the plug for the compressor itself.
that's the one that goes to the clutch plus the 13 mil bolt for the hose pickage. Okay, that section's done. Let's unbox our tensioner and get that guy reinstalled so we can finish up the belt. So we're gonna need to move through this rather quickly because I want to get to this hose plus that receiver dryer down over there.
So let's get our tensioning device back down into its home here. and I think I'm gonna need to Loop the belt around it. didn't consider that when I took this apart I think that's how it's going to go. Sure, why not? Uh, pull that forward again.
the bolt won't go down like I Couldn't get past that plastic business. We're almost there the bolts and are lined up on the hole. Come on hole. There we go.
Oh stay stay stay stay. I'm punching something hot. That's where that goes. So now it's indexed.
There are two pins or pegs on the back of the tensioner and those index into two holes inside of the front of the mount there. And that was our quick action that we had. So now I just need to kind of tighten this down, put some torque on it. We'll align the belt, get it over top of the alternator, and get the tension all set up. and then we're good with this section over here. Come on, it's just easier this way. Still going. we're almost there.
I'm A Okay, it's almost bottomed out a little bit more now. I touched something hot. It was my light burnt my banji. Here we go and I'm gonna cheat this wrench with another wrench myself.
extra Leverage Yeah, it's called cheating a wrench a little bit more. click where? All right. tensioner, relieving tool. coming back in, we just gotta plug that into the little square, cut out, snap that guy in and then un tension it.
Oh, here's the old one. that's the square I was referencing. So we on tension first. I need to get that belt lined up with that idler right there that wasn't okay and and you need as much as possible here and up over.
Oh no, you guys Well here. I got you I got you more. There's our it's like three quarters of the way on there we go. I Mean it's not coming off now I got it there.
It is okay. let's relieve our tensioner and I need to walk around and do a check on all the ribs to make sure everyone is aligned. So I skipped ahead some and tossed the Shroud back in. So let's get the bolt on and we can hinge the TCM back onto its little bracket right here.
which is gonna go. They have that. Oh it's stuck. Come here.
it's gonna hinge. think like that. How'd they do this? It's got to go there right? That's where. have I done there? Got it.
Had to push and my little pin. it's gonna go in right down there into the shroud. it's going to line up. Oh I See I gotta pick up on it.
Okay, no matcher. We'll figure it out. You'll add it from down hill. Come on pin, go in there.
That's it. Okay, that's pinned in. We're good. TCM is installed.
Let's get the hoses. next. Correction: Actually, we're doing hoses and the receiver dryer. Let's disconnect that receiver.
Move that aside so we've got a 13 A 13. There's a 13 and then there's a 10 on the band that holds that receiver trying to position. We got to get that thing out too. and if I can I'll just sneak my wobbly 13 in.
Go get that line disconnected I Was gonna try to sneak this out with the line still on it, but that was probably going to be an exercise in futility and we've got this 13 that was coming off. That's for our line that contains the orifice tube. We don't need to pull this one all the way out or pull it apart. rather I've already put a new orifice in it.
this one. This is where we get into tight squeeze territory trying to fit power tools into places not designed for power tools. Then the little metal band down there on the receiver that has a 10 millimeter nut or a bolt or something right back there. I Can barely see it. All right good. I Guess we're gonna find out. Yepper pull this thing up some just kind of flex it and then Our Receiver dryer just kind of squeeze right on out there we go. Got her.
All right? we're getting our receiver dryer slash accumulator in position here. Let's get rid of the cap. Now here's our our old one and it came with this. uh, this installation here which is it's form, fit and it's molded and it's coming apart.
Usually you got to reuse this stuff but I happen to have like some header wrap sitting around so I uh I cut up my giant piece of header wrap and I wrapped it around and zip tied it so we're gonna put this in place instead to insulate and prevent heat soaking into the receiver dryer. It's already got a new gasket on it so all I really need to be doing is getting it into position here. Plug that into the evaporator. Get plugged in.
please. come on now. Hmm. Why won't you? The angles of our dangles aren't correct here.
There we go. Got it. Okay, that guy's in. Put the bolts on, reach down and tighten up the little band clamp bolt that's down there.
It goes. nickage. All right, that's tight. Let's plug in our low side cycling switch, that cap off and I'm going to bring the hose in.
They said this is the right hose for it, but this particular hose has an extra fitting right here. Looks like it's for some kind of a sensor. Maybe like a pressure sensor. There's another fitting over there I Think that's a service port.
Yeah, that's a low side service port. so this is not exactly the correct hose, but it sort of fits. and I don't have another one. So I'm gonna try to make this one work as best I can I have to bend it a little bit right here.
the angle's not exactly right. If it doesn't work, then I'll just change it back with my other one. No big deal, All right. So I did some flexing around action and I think I got a decent fit on this.
It plugs in without putting a side load on anything. It clears the firewall, it runs over and it meets the compressor. So I'm good with that position on this hose. Let's get these two guys tightened down real quick and then we'll Bolt the hose back on.
We are nearly there. You know what? I was thinking? it'd be cool since I have that extra Port actually two extra ports in that line. Maybe I can hook up a pressure transducer and connect. Um, that was loud I can connect one of these uh, that transducer to the uh, the banks module the eye Dash and it can give me real time live AC pressures like I I could could do it I don't know if I will, but it'd be kind of cool if I did.
Anyway, let's get these Uh hoses connected. the AC Service hoses for the machine will evacuate this system and then recharge it and see if this thing's gonna actually make cold weather. or if I just need to sell the truck and we're gonna see if this thing's actually gonna make cold air. or maybe I just need to sell the truck I'm just kidding. I'm not going to sell it. shouldn't have said that Anyway, all of a sudden everybody like I want to buy it. Sell me your truck. It's a negative, not for sale, cannot park ways with it.
It's pre-emissions There's no way I'd let this thing go. so that one that does present a bit of a challenge right there to get like fitting onto it's not actually going to fit. so I'll just use this one up here. Yeah, good to go look at that now.
I Don't have to worry about it, let that cap back on that other low side fitting. Stay there Okay. Beginning vacuum phase now for about 10 minutes that's industry standard. Then we can get the charge in I believe it is a 1.6 pounds of refrigerant over this intake.
Back in, let's move our connector over there for the mass airflow that filter down in its home and get our clamp set up as well right there. Rodger I'm gonna clamp it right there right there, put you in, you stay there. and then four screws on top of our filter lid stainless so they don't rust. doing machine.
Eight minutes, 45 seconds to go. the clock is ticking. The countdown has begun. The Final Countdown I Really hope that this compressor simply just didn't have flow capability to get enough refrigerant through the system to actually pull the heat out of the cabin because if I've got if I got an evaporator problem in there, I'm going to be PO'd because I'm just I'm just listed in removing the dash.
it's not gonna do it. Nope. I refuse. Now if we're good, it's the compressor I know it is I forgot one and that's where all my tools keep going down in there.
Forgot that one too. Yeah, how did I managed to manage to do that? You okay, Beware of shovel there we go. Lost my towel down there I Had a customer complaint once because I dropped the towel down in the engine compartment and it was sitting on top the fender of like a work van and they called and sent uh sent pictures of the alleged towel and they were generally upset and angry because I left the towel in uh in their van I bet if I left a 200 flashlight in there they wouldn't have imagined. but you know the towel that that proves I did a bad job.
So what are you gonna do here? Let's make our clamps tight next or just the one rather. I only took one off. good to go and our mass airflow connect door right there. Click that on.
We're good to go waiting for the machine. Okay, vacuum. If we let's go ahead and get the charge in, it's going to be 1.6 pounds of refrigerant. Okay, there are seven ounces of oil in that compressor.
All right. Vacuum complete. Let's go ahead and charge this thing. It's going to be 1.6 pounds, refrigerant, begin charging and then zero one six. Oh no. I'm out of refrigerant, Send it ability. 1.499 pounds. What? Okay, 1.477 pounds.
Send it beginning charge now. so this is actually going to be about a tenth of a pound low. so if, uh, if it cools fantastic, then it'll probably cool even better with a full charge. All right.
So it's going in listening for leaks with my not exactly correct hose. So far so good. Yepper all right. let's wait for this thing to finish.
We are almost there. We'll go ahead and fire it up and see what she does. My battery box, My battery box. we're inside of my toolbox.
It's gonna be two either group 29 or group 31 deep cycle batteries in here to run my inverters, but that's for later. However, I do have the heavy gauge wire already run into the toolbox. it's not connected I've got it run and it terminates just right over here just hanging out. I'm gonna put a big like 300 amp solenoid in this so I can turn it on and off with a switch connecting One Bank of batteries to the other Bank of batteries if you're curious to why I'm doing that.
I Actually made a video about it the other day when I installed the high idle feature in this truck. I will leave a link to that video. it'll be the second link in the list down inside the video. This video's description All right.
So the thing stopped at 1.4 pounds of refrigerant, which is pretty much what we took out. So uh, it should show us an improvement at 1.4 pounds restarting the engine. Let's fire up the system, get it on high, we're on recirculation front Vents and I'll go grab some thermal meters. Speaking of thermal meters, right outside, right now we have 92 degrees at the front of the truck.
so we're we're working with 92 ambient air 10. I've got my thermal meter. Let's get that thing in our Dash We'll let that stabilize and in the meantime we'll run outside and uh, check the pressures at the machine. All right.
It's been running high idle machines on it. Charge is full mostly. Low side is almost right on the money I Want to see like 32 but our high side is still in the 300s. The only difference we have here is our low side is a little bit lower and our high side needle is not bouncing and jumping around.
See that needle bouncing around a little bit. That's indicative of an issue with the compressor. See that we shouldn't be bouncing like that. Our our low side pressure came down to about 40.
PSI Let's go into the cabin and we're gonna check. Uh, check the thermal meter. I'm not so supremely confident because our pressures are wrong. We do not have the appropriate amount of pressure here and according to our thermal meter here, we are at no, it's not doing it either.
60 59 degrees Yeah I Want to see in the mid 40s 45 46, 42 59 58's not going to cut it I think I have a restriction inside of the evaporator. It's a seven and a half hour job to go in there and take the EVAP box out. I've done a couple flushes on the thing already I'm I may just have to bite the bullet and pull the thing apart. However, if I procrastinate long enough, we'll make it to winter time before. uh, before it becomes a real problem. So I could just tolerate it and pretend it'll go away, but it probably won't I need to get it fixed? Uh, had something to prepare for for certain I don't like to pull dashes out of vehicles especially you know, older plastic dashes? I'm not not too thrilled. There's a high risk of breakages and I don't want to spend seven hours working on the interior of the vehicle because here's the thing: my headliner is falling down. my carpet is a quarter million miles old and if I'm going to go through all the trouble of pulling the seats out, pulling the dash out I might as well order carpet and so then I'll have to reupholster the inside so it'll end up being more of the restoration project.
but I just I need to mentally prepare for that and hey, look at that. Hold on a minute here. we're coming down. look 260 and 30.
All right? Okay, maybe there is hope I'm gonna go out and drive it. See you guys later. Stay tuned for the Uh The Encore evaluation going down the road. when we close up shop.
we're gonna get out of here. All right, everything's disconnected. Close up our Hood the shops closed doors are shut. we're all locked, cars are put away.
Something's good to go. Let's get out of here. let's see our temperature. Where are we at? 58 60 Somewhere around there? All right, let's go all hit the road real quick.
Uh let's see high idle off? Yeah that's super cool I Love it man. I completely feel like I'm forgetting something. but I don't know what it is I don't know. No matter, figure it out in a minute.
Whoa. my hair. Turn that down some All right everybody. So far so good.
it's holding, it's holding in the high 50s right now. we're gonna go out, pick up some speed, make sure there's some fan going over the condenser and I'll check back in on the temperature in a moment. Green light whoa oh my. God I have my pedal monster turned up too much again there.
The throttle was kind of touchy and aggressive for for my mood. so I didn't feel like uh, probably turn it down so we're rolling along. What do we got here in our tents? We're we're low 50s so we've got an improvement. we saw pressure was a little bit high on that high side.
It did come down but I I Don't know if if that's really going to be enough to keep this thing cool hovering right now at 51 if we know both sides are up I'm cold Max cold 60 degrees there we go. All right, So we are. it's better. it is better.
but it's not. It's not performing the way it was designed. it's just not cold enough yet. So uh, I'll probably tolerate it for another year and then I'll pull the dash out when I'm ready to do the carpet and the headliner. So until that time again, thank you guys for watching this video. Let me know what you think about the situation that pan here. Uh, in the comment section below, would you leave it alone and just let it ride? Or would you be willing to have the dash removed? Or pull the dash and replace the final part the evaporator core inside of the A-trac module. Again, let me know in the comment section down below and thank you guys for watching Catch you on the next one Finalized ending of video.
Have a great day. See you guys later! All right. look at there. Ambient Air Temperature 87 degrees So it's cooled off some and now look here.
40 39 degrees. So after, uh, about a 45 minute test drive and it cooling off just a wee little bit I've got really, really, really, really, really good Center Vent Temps All right, we're getting somewhere. I Guess.
There is a ccot that may have failed. The cycling clutch orifice tube regulates the flow of refrigerant to the evaporator. Too much in, it won't cool as well. Because you had the system open, you should subject it to a vacuum for 30 minutes to get rid of any moisture that entered. Under a vacuum, it will evaporate.
the truck is very valuable…..therefore, bit the dash and change it all back to NEW LIKE condition…..500,000 more miles to go!
You didn't charge the customer enough for this job😅
love to see you redo the headliner. new carpet could increase insulation. i would put some reflecting padding under the new carpet. while you are at it check with DMV to get the darkest tint allowed. Check with your doctor to see if they would put you in high risk for skin cancer and grant you an exempt letter.
Fix it ….labor is free….😬
I'm about a month late but I'd say start collecting everything you think you'll need for your project and do it when the weather cools down. Take a day and overhaul it.
Unless you have about $100k to buy a new truck, I'd definitely do the work on AC and interior. Looks to me like the engine and tranny are in great shape – and they're the whole ballgame…
I'll never forget the time one of those auto tensioners snapped while trying to remove a belt. Makes you respect finger position when doing belts.
Been driving in the UK for 50 years, don't think I've ever used air conditioning. 🤔
I checked the temp in my truck and it got down to 38 degree. Maybe the compressor needs to be broken in. What do I know, I just watch youtube channels.
My Uncle left me a truck just like yours except it is white and it has only twenty two thousand miles on it and it was a Texas truck. I also got all the maintenance records. He mainly used it around his farm and used on some trips.
Let it ride 🛻
Why don't you use a battery isolator that will keep them charged without having to flip a switch?
No Matter. Is that the cousin of Tow Mater?
In this weather were experiencing. Id say get ready to pull the dash apart. It sucks alot but itll be worth it once you have a truck that has cold ac
I wonder if you put the recommended amount of freon in, if it will work a little better?
Go for the resto. Headliners, carpet, install extra wiring for the mirror cam etc. Don’t go installing all kind of goodies like the dual alternator and not have a fully nice truck. And don’t wait too long, the less you’ll enjoy it yourself.
We now have a pseudonym – it's cockney rhyming slang in the UK.
For all those "Bob Dole's" out there negatively commenting on YouTube 😂😂😂
Considering pulling the dash: how long are you estimating you will keep driving the truck? If you realistically expect 10+ more years, then go for it! If you think 2-5, maybe just leave it alone. I expect you have other cars to drive when you don't need heavy hauling capacity.
Pull the dash now
Fix it
Before going through the full evap replacement, I’d at least get it up to the spec 1.6 lbs of refrigerant.
Rainman I have a question for you…. On my truck, Dodge 3500 6.7 Cummins, I can speed up or high idle the engine with the cruise control. Push set from idle then to increase idle bump the resume until you get the rpms you want. Can your truck not do this?? I thought this was kinda standard on vehicles because I've had others that are set up that way as well.
With the extra electric power of truck I would like you to add the artic air cooling system that installs in the intake run by a electric compressor it’s good for all engines especially diesels
Funny how when you forget a rag or something people jump down your throat, had it happen to me also. But one time rushing to get a job done I forgot to pick up a piece of test equipment, I know FOR SURE I left it in customer’s vehicle, called them and they knew nothing about it. $150 gone because they lied. This was also a customer I had for years and after that never saw them again. But I had the reverse happen also. Customer wanted to remove the heads for a valve job himself. He got it back together and ran worse then before. Brought back to me and I did a compression test and had zero on number 4. Removed the head and customer left a red shop rag in number 4 cylinder. That was a first for me. 😂🤣🤪
My 03 Super Duty 7.3 Powerstroke with 117K miles has been running with part time a/c , I don't have the money to fix it or know for sure what is wrong with it . I've been under the dash working on a couple other things and I ain't going there again . The heat here in central Arkansas is Hotter Hell , I'm 74 and as a retired mechanic I can't do but very little . I'll just have to live with it . Take care of yourself your only young once . Great video .
Electric condenser fan there also maybe to much oil in the system.
We have to name the truck
I'm not pulling the dash, so go ahead, it'll be nothing if not interesting! 🙀
The UV dye clogs up the system. I don't know why GM uses this as a factory fill. Monitor your high side pressures while driving and you will see pressure spikes at hot idle if this is the issue.
I'm confused. Last time I followed you, you went off on you're own to start your own business. Is that still the case? ty
I would have brought the van back to you for towel removal.
Rain Man your comfort is extremely important to us… Therefore the 7 hour job to remove the dash is necessary. We will wait in a conditioned air environment for that video to air <—— no pun intended ! ps: order the carpet too !
When the vents are 120 degrees it takes a while for the air to properly cooldown I think you got it though
The system is just dripping with dye
Hey ray,how's that banks doing? Does it improve the power?
I have a 05 f150 FX4 with a bully dog,it was on the truck when I bought it but there's no book and I don't know how to operate it
Sorry we keep falling over. It must be the heat. Love watching your videos, keep up the good work.
Fully charge the system and SEND IT!
My Chevy recently blew out the o-rings around the orfice tube. Didn't cool real well that way.
My biggest take away was you didn't have a spare tank of Refrigerant on standby. Would you leave a customer car low because you didn't have a enough refrigerant to properly charge their vehicle? Always have a +1 of critical supplies on hand. Additionally, I don't understand the thing with running home appliances off your truck, just install a whole house generator (elevated) with an auto transfer switch running on Propane or Natural gas and be done with it. The truck thing is ridiculous.
Could you get inside and clean the evaporator? GM has a special tool to get rid of mold / mildew. I mean if the evap isn't leaking cleaning may work. You will need to remove the blower to get at it I would think.
LOL….Mad Scientist at work
How have you been ray sorry I’ve not been watching your videos man been a bit busy but also dealing with my mental health in the process any who hope all is good!
Okay, im familiar with this issue. Several things to check here. First, check output while engine is stone cold. Get it out of the shop and get air moving through the condenser at a constant cruising speed, note the coldest temp. monitoring the vent temp on MAX 60 degrees with a digital thermometer. If the vent temp rises along with coolant temp, its probably a blend door issue. GM has a service bulletin on a recalibration procedure. You can't accurately diagnose compressor with guage readings with high ambient and humidity conditions, especially with no air or water moving through the condenser.
Take it out on the freeway, if the evap temp drops that’s an indication of fan clutch, stop and go city driving will warm it up
Wouldn't high pressure on the high pressure side usually be associated with a plugged orifice tube? That would limit cooling at higher outside temps… Seems like if the condenser was changed because it was plugged, there's a good chance remaining crud in the system has partially plugged that orifice again. A partially plugged evaporator would mean the low pressure side would be high, and it's not really… ??
I had a 24000 watt power inverter on my tractor trailer with just a single high output alternator and it worked fine
Time to put an intercooler mister on the radiator!
Leave it the way it is.
Install a electric fan? 🤷 Maybe the radiator is dirty so maybe try cleaning it also try to clean the evaporator again maybe the fan clutch isn't engaging
O maybe its the interior controls that are not correct? Maybe the cold setting is calibrated for something like 70 degrees maybe right? Can those be altered to give more "juice" to the compressor/blower?
Hey Youngin, I would replace the fan clutch before tearing out the dash. In modern vehicles that thing is so critical for AC functionality, and there is no way to check it, well there is a way but, it is easier to replace it. The deal is it may seem to be working properly, but with 134A the airflow is ridiculously precise, and the reason is, just to make it short (Bla Bla Bla and a bunch of sciencey and physics stuff), I strongly! recommend the use of a factory unit, please I'm beggin ya. At the worst, you have a new fan clutch, at best it fixes the issue. It's funny how different R12 is from 134A. With 134A, even if you fill the system with a machine like yours, it still takes time for the refrigerant to "settle in" and be where it is supposed to be, with R12, vacuum, refill, and done, not even a need for a test drive, Ahh yes the good old days.
Now for one of my evaporator stories, had a customer with a 944s, they had taken the car everywhere, and no one could fix the A/C, low air flow, and low low side, we took out the evaporator, annnnnnnd, it was covered with cat hair, the customer went everywhere with their long haired cat in the car, hehehehe.
Onkel Blue Mule
Slap a fan clutch in it …
A/C does not cool the air, it removes the heat. From the whole cabin area! Once your cab was cooled down, (and lower outside temp helps), it was easier to cool more. Air on recirculation? All vents open? People bring cars in and say it takes forever to cool down, and they have all the vents closed except for the driver vents. DUH! Or the cabin filter is plugged! The more air flow, the sooner the cabin air cools down. Don't restrict the system, open all the vents. Have you cleaned the blower squirrel cage? Most dash outs are $800 to $1500 depending on vehicle, and those jobs really suck, and old plastic does break and crack very easy, so finding other ways to clean the coil may get you by. Buy the shop vac small hose adapter kit and vacuum the coil just past the blower motor, then put the blower motor back in. You can get part way in with your hand and push the small hose in there and wiggle it around to vacuum some of the dirt out. Blow some shop air in there to clean it out. Look at vent case diagrams and bore a 2 or 3 inch access hole and install a rubber stopper, then clean the evap and heater cores, it is cheaper! Think there is video of this if you search. If you have the option to install a cabin filter after all the work, or on a newer vehicle that does not have one from factory, install it! And then change it out every year! Most older vehicles (1/4 mil and up especially! 🙂) have plugged up coils in the dash, so lower air flow than when it was new. Poor cooling performance. You already checked the evap flow when flushing, so you know it's good. And still scratching your head. Bet this is your problem with this truck! Lastly, if you get a new aftermarket blower motor, like not OEM, check the CFM rating against factory. They slow replacement fan speeds down to reduce current flow and power circuit overheating to reduce the number of warranties on blowers. Because the air box is dirty and restricted. If you do the dashout, get a CFM guage and write down all your vent speeds before, and then speeds after with new clean coils. I mean, if your going in there, your doing the heater coil also since your already there, right? You can tell everyone why that is an excellent idea if they have to do an AC coil.
OMG! How new a tech are you? You know a bunch already, but get some schooling, it will help you out so much. Showing people the hard or dangerous way to do things is not good. This is why so many channels are not good. And vist the tool truck for some specialized tools, like for the serpentine belt. Makes that part so easy.
It cannot be a problem with the evaporator. if you had a problem with evaporator the pressure would be low. It looks to me like one or more cores could be plugged in the condenser or lack of airflow across it. The Txv is a fixed orifice that works on bringing the liquid pressure down to evaporate at a lower temperature. You are condensing the refrigerant to 150F and failing to get the refrigerant to a suitable liquid for the valve to work efficiently. To test you could mist water over condenser and check performance but water could block airflow across the condenser as it gets lodged in the fins. You could also run your thermal over it and see if it condenser I would like to see max of 34F above ambient on the condensing temperature.
Can someone tell me where I can find the high idle video he was referring to, thanks
Had the same issue replacing the alternator with my daughter. Hands to big fan too fat belt area too small. Was feeling around just praying the ratchet would connect lol
before you pull it apart if you havent alredy done the cabin air filter retrofit look in to that, when i did mine about a cup full of mud was somehow packed inside of there and i spent a half hour cleaning it out with various brushes and compressed air.
Love your channel Ray watch just about every video and I am so so glad you are keeping that truck on the road I had a chevy of that era and thats when trucks were still well made and made to last before all this new fan dangled electronic stuff starting taking over to bad yeah it has electronics but you I hope know what I mean would love to see you get the interior refurbished that truck still has hundreds of thousands of miles to go I am older older then you LOL And I just about can't stand all this new fan dangled stuff there pushing out these days !!!!!
Pull 90* faucet on heater hose. Right from Home Depot
Jimmy will do the dash
Jimmy will do the dash.
what's a GM belt doing on a dodge?
you could run a hand wire brush on that radiator and get it straight again. when you have an exposed radiator its kind of ugly
Didn’t see the ac button illuminated indicating it was on
Is procrastination an acceptable option?
From experience GM oriface systems take forever to equalize.
I would wait. It’s running better. It’s hot in Florida, so to get the inside temp down to 50* is awesome.
Fan clutch is original? add a pusher fan to that condenser, before you condemn the evap
Make sure the refrigerant pressure is at spec.
Finally. You organized your rolling car 😅
I had to remove the dash on a 1996 Chevy Blazer to replace a vacuum actuator. It was mounted right behind a steering column support. Took me a couple of days to complete the job. I bought a genuine GM part and had to modify it to make it work. A friend came over and saw the dash sitting on my garage floor and he couldn't believe I was able to do that. I didn't break anything and the cool air then came out of the center vents instead of going to the floor. Yes, PITA job but doable if you have the patience and tools. I've had to change the blend door on my 2011 Equinox too but it was the easy one on the passenger side below the glove box. Those little electric actuators are totally junk. They have little plastic gears that will fail all too soon. The old vacuum actuators were much more reliable. BTW, I watch for your videos everyday and enjoy your work ethic. Great work Ray! 👍👍
If it was my truck and I was living in Florida, I would definitely tear into the dash and change the evaporator.
Watched the whole video and at the very end the AC is actually up to specs now. Customer should be pleased. Oh wait ,
Ray is the customer! All good.
Don't do today what you can put off until tomorrow.
Hey Ray, the next time you replace components on a A/C system can you please explain how to do the oil balance on the system. When you replace a condenser, accumulator or a compressor how do you know how much oil you need in the system for each component. Some or maybe most compressors come with oil already in them but is that for the whole system or just for the compressor itself? I've never seen you do this on camera or you did it a long time ago and I missed it. Thanks man and have a good day.
I see a restoration coming up. Do it!do it!do it!!!
Put in a severe duty fan clutch
I did that to my 2011 ranger with the 4.0 V6, big difference, The fan is engaged a whole lot more now and that resulted in 40 degree AC 😅, or an auxiliary fan in front of condenser
The dual alternator setup is a great idea. If you’re running such a large engine anyway, you may as well make better use of the power provided.
Another trick to save fuel would be to have the engine switch to a lower cylinder count when in generator mode, but I suspect that’s not possible on your particular engine
Was the New Compressor Pre-filled with Oil ??
For the scrapyard 😂
eh, I wanna see if a full charge makes a difference (probably not, but it's the easiest thing at this stage)
As a Floridian, sometimes it’s just to damn hot for any cooling system. Had my HVAC tech out & all was good. Even the Dodge struggled. Cooling is what we idiots suffer from when we decided to call this backfilled swamp home. Welcome to Florida my friend 👍
Bite the bullet. Don't be a wuss. lol
Reminds me of a old truck i had that struggled when temps were high,had to install an electric fan on the condenser to help on really hot day's
You need a fuse at both ends of your power wire going to the back batteries, if you do not fuse them and the battery + shorts to chassis
The wire will burn your truck to the ground like the tow truck in the yard.
Trust me. I know what im talking about. You really only needed to run a b+ wire not a ground, it was not necessary just ground to chassis or the frame rail at both ends in the motor area and at the tool box. Im serrious about the fire especially with the fule tank in the back it is a very high risk for fire.
If those PCMs are so hard to find, would it be a good idea to pre-purchase one? You seem to want this truck to live forever.
Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Raymond is lucky its his own truck he's working on instead of paying someone else to do it. Because what he's done has to be a 1k bucks worth of work on the ac system parts and labor as well as tax on parts.
Fan clutch Ray, hope this helps.
I'm not the brightest crayon in the box, but the thing in the truck says 60, you didn't put all the A/C black magic fluid in that it calls for but when it gives you 58 degrees sitting at high idle in a car port you say it's not doing as it's suppose to? I'm confused.
If it was me I would wait until winter to take it to be fixed. If I were in your shoes I would fix it now
Id love to watch you tear the dash out.. its a job I dread ( Im doing one now to replace an evap and a blower motor) and Ive done carpet and headliners too… But wait till its cooler…
Cool video, nice camera work considering all of the juggling you had to do. Watching your video while riding a bullet train in Japan powered by 25,000V, technology is so cool.
No more bolt on improvements on that old pig…before you sell it …take off alot of the bolt on additions…sell it and buy a newer or new one and quit throwing parts at the old pig!
OMG WHAT IS THIS GARBAGE CLEARLY YOU DONT KNOW THE FAN CLUTCH IS BAD NOT THE COMPRESSOR!