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Testing Testing Testing Audio testing is this thing going to work this time? I Don't know. No seriously. I'm not kidding. In the last video of this 1998 Ford Mustang 4.6 GT the audio craft out and I lost like 20 minutes of audio on my footage I Had to speed everything up do a voiceover.

I Was really upset because it was a really good video. I Mean it still worked out to be a good video, but it wasn't as good as I thought it could have been. Anyway, since we're on the subject of last video, we were uh, doing a uh, a set of ball joints on the front. here.

the front lower is we're binding up and the steering was sticking. If you want to go back and look at that video, just checking the links down in this Video subscription or the pinned comment and it'll take you back in time. So anyway, while we had all this apart, we put uh, well, we took out the front struts slash shocks, we replaced the rear shock absorber units and we are now in a position to get the fronts reinstalled. So what I'm going to do is we're going to run these up into the uh, the hole right up there and we're gonna come around and get these guys bolted back in.

Then we can get the steering Knuckles back on and we'll get the brakes and whatnot toss back on this thing. I've already taken the liberty of changing out those tie rods. they were. They were kind of sticking and I was afraid they weren't rotating as well as they could have, which would have contributed to the bindings uh, condition that the front suspension had.

Additionally, in that other video, we also found that it had a torn steering gear bushings and I've also ordered a set of those. So in this video, we're going to do some reassembly action and then we're going to prep for the next phase of the repairs. the slash mechanical Restorations on this Mustang. So stay tuned because this is going to be a better video than the last one opening.

Z Hood Well, let me rephrase. Uh, it will be a better video just as long as the audio does not Uh crap out again and if it does, then well. I Guess we'll deal with that as we have to deal with that. So there's our first strut.

The nut is on that's in position. Let's tighten that down some and then we'll get the passenger side. All righty. let's get some torque on these nuts.

These are nylon nuts. I'm reaching down, hanging onto the strut cartridge. again, tightening now, please. Good there's our nylon All right, strolling on over.

Let's take our replacement strut for the right front and get this guy installed next. All right strut coming up through the hole. There we go. Let's put our grommet on and our spacer and our washer and our nut.

Here we go. I'm gonna pull back. Let me show you, we're gonna pull on the strut. This direction is going to put a side load on the shaft and that will allow enough friction to tighten down the nut.

There we go. Beautiful. All right. Let's run this thing up in the air, climbing over the paint mess Cedar Back up to a good working height and then we can get the front Knuckles and the brakes installed.
Okay, back at the driver's front dropping my nuts, get rid of that on the ball joint and we'll go ahead and bring in our steering knuckle. With that thing's set up and bolted on, there's our nut and nut it on. We're gonna get it nutted on. All right.

Let's get in here with our wobbly bit again. 24 mil. We're gonna tighten down this stud. click Okay, we need to raise this back up again and we're going to get the pole Jack under it because I need to relieve some spring pressure or get this aligned rather I need to move this control arm up some to get our bolts to, uh, fit into place.

see that we're hanging down about three inches too low. So let's go hit the button, raise this up, and then we'll get that set up. I Got a feeling this is going to assemble much quicker than the disassembly because I don't have to fight with pullers and Hammers and air chisels and all that good stuff. So let's crank this up.

I Don't like that we need more leverage against it all the way. At the end. there we go. That should.

That should suffice. it says me: Dipper cranking it. It keeps lining up. As soon as we're lined up with those bolt holes, we can stick the bolts in and again.

just like the rear shocks. I'm washing the lift arm over here to make sure I don't pick the front of the car up. Uh, off of the lift arm because then it could fall off and that would be bad. Close a little closer and I'm taking some weight off the lift arm too.

A little sketchy. It's okay. a little more half an inch right there. There it there.

it is. That's it. Just for now. that's one one and the other.

They actually go in from the other side, but that one was easiest to get in at the moment. There we go. Okay, one nut and my other nut. Where'd it go? Begin threading, please? What are you doing there? We go.

Number two coming in, right? Yeah, Oh yeah. All right impacts coming in. Let's hold the other end of the bolt and that one. I'll leave it.

Loose Until I Put that caliper bracket bolt on all right brake rotors coming in next. get that guy in position, cow for bracket this unit bolted on and then we'll get our top bolt right there. Yeah, this is going to better going together very nicely. It's impacts coming in.

look. Yep, that did not. It didn't give me the space that I needed. Oh no worries, let's take it out.

We'll put it back in there. We go 24 on the big top bolt. tight. All right, let's get our brake pads re-hung We've got some witness marks on these.

so the circular part here that indicates that that is where the piston and the caliper is touching. So that's our inboard pad and the outboard pad has the two witness Marks here for the fingers on the caliper. So that one is our outboard pad shapes and colors. Let's give that slide pin a good wipe.
It's got a bunch of dirt and dried grease on it. Good. Let's get it with some purple. Lube Load that up nice and thick lag.

You know folks, we're asking uh in the comments about this car, how does it have stuff that's so worn out at 50 000 miles? And it's not so much the wear that has done it. it's the age and the lack of use that has done it. See all this lubrication? just like that brake Lube has ultimately dried up and and cause these conditions. So we need to, uh, undry it, re-lube it, and of course replace the components that were necessary.

Kind of brake issue here. That slide pin is sticking I Must confess I overlooked that earlier, didn't notice. Let's see if I can't get this out with the air impact driver. it should just come right out of there.

Then I can clean it up and re-lube it. Got it. Lack of lubrication. It does strange things.

Okay, let's get that there. we go. put that in there nice and deep back. Also a lot of this is gonna like rub off when we go to insert the PIN but if I get enough on there, we'll have sufficient lubrication quality.

You need to do this without tearing the uh little Rubber seal in there or let's take the seal out. put it back in and I might have to do that I don't know. Hmm how do I do that I can't get the shaft in, the hole's too small. What is this here? I'll try to pluck this Rubber seal off.

see if it comes out or not it should. How? How can I poke my finger? It should come out, maybe the other side I wonder if it's an insert? It might be a full length insert that runs through this thing? Yeah, no, no, we'll just wiggle it a bunch and fresh it. Press it until it. uh, it capitulates and does what? I Want that rubber on there? We go put it back.

Got it? Yay! There's our Bolt Let's get that guy in and thread it in, torque down and aligned. Got to get it all aligned properly here. Well this was supposed to go easy. Why did I say something? What? I've done a big mouth happens every time.

T50 for the win I Do not see problems. This stud is not wanting to Fred what's going on I'm not getting it aligned properly. It's not something's wrong here. it's the rotor turning is what it is I need to put down pressure on it to fight the spring clips.

put the rotor is wanting to come back this way when I do that. So I'll put a nut on it. one of the lug nuts. There we go.

Yeah, we'll tighten that lug nut down. It's going to hold the rotor in place. Then we can hold the caliper down now. I Can get that bolt in and started.

That was easy. Good click. Okay, one side, that one's good. Let's let down our pole Jack here and uh, we can check this thing for any binding action to make sure that we in fact did solve and much much much much much much better.

Look at that. No sticking at all. Sweet. All right.
Moving around to the passenger side wrench and repeat right. All right, let's look this thing up in the air here. Get it down over the stud. let's get our nut on.

Virude impacts coming in. wobbly impacts of course. Okay, all right, come here. Jack stand.

that was loud, wasn't it? obnoxiously loud all the way at the end for proper Leverage Hang up and we'll get our bolts aligned. now. These bolts are going to come in from this side. they come in from the front.

We'll leave the top one out slash loose so we can get that uh bracket for the brakes. just like the driver's side. Keep cranking that up right there top bolt and it's in, but not all the way. Let's go ahead.

my uh, jet stands in the way. Miscalculation? No worries. out of the way. Okay, let's move on over here and get our nuts on.

We're on the nuts. there's one. Okay, let's get this bottom one torqued down and tight. Get on there.

Peace. Click. Nice rotors coming in I Need to bend my backing plate out some I Guess it got kicked or dropped or something here. I Baroque it kind of.

it's gonna Flex It Here we go. Rotors coming on that again. around to the side. two bolts for the caliper bracket I really did tweak that uh, backing plate a little bit I don't remember doing that I wonder what happened? Everything's a hammer even? Electric Tools Beautiful.

All righty. Same as the other side brake pads going in. there's our outboard stick you right in there inboard. Likewise, let's push our rotor flush, bolt it on so it stays flush and now we can lubricate our slide pins and caliper give that a bit of a white.

Get rid of the old nasty crud. There we go and some of the purple. Lube get the purple all over it. Okay, back her up.

We'll get our caliper, slide that over the PIN that's the fixed pin and the other pin is going to be the bolt. which uh, now that one's a little stuck in there too. Okay, so considering that the other side was very difficult to remove, I'm not going to pull this one out all the way. Well, it was difficult to put back.

so I'm gonna try to not pull it out all the way. this time. getting it past that rubber lip was a bear. so I would like to avoid that this time and we'll just pack this thing full of grease from both sides.

There we go. Much better. Yeah, now it slides again. beautiful and we are threading perfect Torque 50 coming in.

Caliper clicks achieved and that looks like one nice good free ball joint. Good to go. All right. let's raise this thing up again.

Actually, No. I'm gonna do this from the chair. We're gonna go down below and we need to take these bolts out of the steering gear and change the bushings. Uh, in that power steering rack? All right.

We're back down below. driver, side, passenger side. over there. this is the two bolts that, uh, Bolt the steering gear to the frame.
We need to pull that nut and that nut and then probably push those bolts through. that way we can drop this thing down and pull it back some and extract these. uh, these bushings here. So let's see how this is going to go.

Came off no problem, dude. check our other side. These, uh, these bolts here should actually be turning here. They're rusted in.

Nope, they come out good. Ting Tink All right, let's pry bar this steering gear away from the body. some if we can want to I Want to leave the bolts in position. Behind These little mounts here and pry this thing off.

not breaking it there. We go get it from the other side here. see how we're sliding it off those pins? That's what we want to do. now.

the only thing really holding this, uh, steering gear in position. after we get these pins out, it's going to be the steering shaft and the lines and hoses. So to make sure I don't drop this, break some stuff. I Don't want to do that either.

Come on out. I'm taking care of that fry against the uh, the rubber boots here because that could break my boot. What are we stuck on? What's the deal? Steering shaft? probably. Oh, we got one side.

pull that other side apart. we're pretty close on us on the thing almost off of that pin. I Think the steering shaft is holding me up on the on the driver's side. It's kind of annoying.

seem to get there, we go try it more. I'm out of there. bushing. more.

maximum fry action. There we go. Okay, let's get our uh, basement bushing in. Push that out.

Slide that in. Push it down. There we go. That's one.

We'll get the outer bushing after we get the inner bushing on this other side over here. That one's kind of being a bear. No matter, we'll get it here. Let's get rid of that.

that old one. That one stayed stuck. This rubber on this side is swollen. The issue is is it's been exposed to a bunch of oil because the oil filter is right above us and when you do oil changes it drains down on all this and then it saturates this rubber right here on there.

Good Yeah, so that rubber is all swollen and it doesn't want to come out. but we're gonna make it. It shouldn't be that hard. It only takes books that it takes .6 hours to do this.

I Think that's a little inaccurate. Come here. no turning back now. I mean worst case scenario: I Got to take the steering shaft off.

We'll be fine if I can get all this rubber out there. we go now. I should be able to sneak a new rubber grommet in over that shaft. There we go before I'm digging myself a hole here.

could be doing that. Get on there please. Hammer Time Okay, so that grommets in. So we just got a maneuver.

This steering gear back over that little Peg again more pry action stuff. It's got to come out this way and bend back there. We go there, we go. Now we're getting it right.
Just like so beautiful. Look at that right over the new Grommet bushing Grommet bushing. there's our outboard dry Hammer that one in and then push our bolt through. Okay, same thing on the other side so let's see new bushing is that one.

Slide that guy in, hammer it in, do whatever you got to do to get in good. I'll reach around, push the bolt through now we can bolt it back on. All right. All right.

big washer going on. same thing on the other side. get on there washer. oh going backwards impacts coming in this guy tight and one more Uno Moss on our driver's side here that Vault wants to push back into it so I need to hold it.

my bolt is turning. so I need friction? Watch this. Just like with the strut, got it? Awesome! Okay, steering gear has now been re-bushinged and grommeted. This section of the repair is good to go.

Let's get out of here All right Tie Rod time. I Believe he's winning from the bottom did they not I think that's how they went I Guess we're gonna find out. Try again I need to turn this and the survey says and memory serves. It says it goes in from the bottom like so that's correct So we'll get our nut on mirror night.

Please come on. I'm dropping it there and some forward quick action here. Bend that thing out of the way a little bit more. just gotta line up the cotter pin.

Good All right. Let's whoo gravity. Let's get our pin through the hole there. It's a safety mechanism.

It keeps the nut from coming off just in case it wants to come off. so we'll pull that through all the way. Seriously, what are we doing? Did you hear what I said cotter pin go through? Yeah, we're fine. That up and over and down and then I'll take this other one.

bring it around the side like so nice and pretty. Let's go on back to the other side and do it one more time. Tie rod assembly nearly complete to turn the wheel again. Now we can see what we're trying to see.

that guy in. put the nut on it. All right. Impacts coming in last time on the tie rod.

All right. come here and where's the hole? We're right, almost lined up I Can't see the stud is turned here a little bit more. How's that one good? can the pin went in? So yeah, that's good, but it's kind of at this stupid wrong type of angle here. I Didn't really think that through did.

I So we'll bend it in sections. This one goes up and over and the other one is going to go around. So we did it wrong and something was bugging me I knew I knew something wasn't right. I skipped the step.

You guys know you saw it though, didn't you? I didn't see it? No worries, we'll reach in there 24 mil. We should be able to get a hold of that, no problem. Yep, hey, that's why I missed it. It's over here, on the floor dangling around.

Let's get this last bolt in there. We'll get it threaded on and 24 coming in. Finalized impacts. All right.
Time to redeem myself. Let's get that guy in getting. Forward Thinking Out Come on now. get in there.

Got it? Oh, come on, give me back my socket. Mine also All right. Good to go. Alrighty Folks At this point we have completed this particular segment.

The steering system has been brought back to life. The ball joints have changed. We've got new shock absorbing equipment on the vehicle with one exception. and that is these lateral shock absorbers right here.

These are designed to prevent uh, axle twisting under loads. Um I Had to order a set of those guys. those are on the way. and there's also a boatload of engine parts showing up pretty soon.

We've got some intake stuff going on, some throttle body stuff going on, and I think a few other knickknacky items that we're going to do to this engine to, uh, unlock some of the uh, the hidden horsepowers and make this Pony car have just a little bit more power. So uh, that being said, uh as of right now again I'm on a parts hold so we're gonna go ahead and close this one out right now. As always, hope you like this video. If you did like this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below.

Tap that like button while you're down there again. If you missed part one, just read: visit the the links down in this video's description or in the pin comment. It'll take you to the Part One video where I screwed up the audio royally. But I think we've redeemed ourselves.

So anyway, again and as always, thank you guys for watching. Have yourselves a fantastic day! See you guys later in a video in the Mustang in the transmission. Oh wait wait wait wait wait wait wait I forgot. don't go anywhere Shiny Ultimate Shiny.

Hear that? There we go.

93 thoughts on “Long term oil change damage! mustang gt front end refresh! ford 4.6”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Grant McInnes says:

    I would once again like to voice my appreciation for castle nuts, cotter pins and nylocks vs. the "thoughts and prayers" approach VW takes.

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Grant McInnes says:

    I saw that caliper bolt seal split boyo 🙂

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David Henderson says:

    Maybe you should have sprayed the boots below the oil filter to prevent bushings from swelling up. Just saying. Get us some new videos quickly please!!!!!. We're jonsing for new content. Thanks Ray

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Redspeciality says:

    You didn’t put the nut back on the second bolt on the right side shock strut next to the brake caliper.

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars SuburbanDon says:

    The last video was fine with voiceover.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Appalachian Woman says:

    I wonder if it was just age of the vehicle and parts that was the big problem? Because the car didn't have many miles on it, seems like it's just a weekend or special event cruiser that one takes out in nice weather.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MN dual sport and adventure says:

    Ray as one mechanic to another, I personally believe in torquing all suspension, steering and brake parts. Other than that it’s a perfect video. You obviously found something that works for you!

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Sonicaceman says:

    Good video. This shows the struggle of fixing things and the true life of a mechanic. I would have spent the small extra and got urethane bushings for that rack if oil was the reason for the original being ruined. Urethane is resistant to oil and would never need to be replaced. Only downside to the urethane one would be a small amount of increased nvh. Great condition car and. Ice to see someone is doing the proper maintenance on it to keep it going down the road safely

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jackson Subdivision N Scale Model Railroad says:

    I liked this video!

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Brian Radcliffe says:

    Is it just me or did you not use a castle nut with a cotter pin on the first ball joint?

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars martin moffitt says:

    put some lug nuts on to hold rotor in place when attaching caliper bolt

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Scott slattery says:

    Nice save ray!!! I was going to comment you missed the strut nut but as always…you got it. Great video ray!!! Thanks again!

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars ToddMcF2002 10 says:

    those inner tie rods are cooked. Good video though!

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Shawnski’s Garage says:

    Fox body/sn 95 such a simple easy suspension to work on. Judging on how the the outer tie rod end does not stay up (flops towards the ground) when released from the spindle, the inner tie rods appear to be shot.

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars hilham 89 says:

    I kept yelling at my screen please put the nut on the bolt. Lol. Im glad you got it though

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rick L. says:

    Waiting for part 3…

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Krandel Brents says:

    Sure that thing hasn't been underwater cuz I see too much rust under that body look like somebody tried to repair it

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Tom Joad says:

    The sway bar end link rod's bushing were worn on the passenger side.I woulda have changed them too.

  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rick Uyeda says:

    Good job

  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dave Clarke says:

    not impressed how you did the lower caliper bushings those bushings come out because the rust from the metal builds up and you have to ream that out first

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars James Davis says:

    The last video was fine. If you had not mentioned it, I would not have noticed

  22. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Roguex9x says:

    Why is there no castle nut on the new ball joints

  23. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Luis M says:

    Instead of saying it’s going to be a good video. Say it after. Ha! Awesome work sir!

  24. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars BCR /RC says:

    You forgot a nut on the strut to knuckle

  25. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars xplmr1 says:

    The new ball joints didn't have castellated nuts and cotter pins? They didn't look like nyloc nuts either. Has the aftermarket community decided that those aren't prone to backing off under normal use?

  26. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Identity Protected says:

    No need to go overboard on the pins. You never know who’s gonna work on the car next. Sometimes parts guys forget to put new pins in the box.

  27. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars peter daughtrey says:

    Any over 10 year old vehicle repairs are actually restoration !

  28. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars peter daughtrey says:

    Labor Times only accurate on brand new stuff. 5% more per year is better gage of aging difficulties. Corrosion issues are on top of all that.

  29. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rusty Rouse says:

    Had a buddy call me about a hot water heater the other day and he said "it's going to be an easy job" well this will be the 4th day he's working on it, the second he said it'd be an easy job, I said I learned my lesson about them "easy jobs" they might normally be easy, but the second you say they're easy, that's when you mess up! Lol! So I know exactly what you mean about speaking too soon!

  30. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Wes Terry says:

    Aahh NUTS.😅

  31. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Allen hackney II says:

    Ray you forgot to but the nut on the top of the two bolts

  32. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Steamy1225 says:

    Not impressed with your power tool over torquing ability. I guess you forgot how hard it was to take everything apart. The rear lateral shock are also there to prevent wheel hop when trying to burn rubber. I removed mine long ago as new beefier rear control arms were installed and no more wheel hop.

  33. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jason Bulle says:

    Lol, were we supposed to take a shot at all the "that's what she said" opportunities?

  34. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars William Wallace says:

    I didn't see you install the nuts on either of the upper strut bolts.

  35. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David Williamson says:

    Where is the oil change damage?!?

  36. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars HouseCallAutoRepair says:

    Ray, I get such a kick out of how our worlds are SO DIFFERENT! You get away with stuff down there in Florida, that would LOCK UP stuff, up here in the SALT BELT in a matter of DAYS.
    If we did brakes, up here, like you do down there, they would NEVER last. We have a COMPLETELY DIFFERENT APPROACH..

  37. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars RedCarGuy says:

    I never see you using a torque wrench.. do you have one integrated in your arm? 😀

  38. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Michael Sammons says:

    it looks like he didn't bolt both bolts on the second strut. He got in a hurry unless he went back and bolted it back down.

  39. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Peter Whyte says:

    Luv yr work Ray but a Finger of Grease on re assembly would make me happier ….

  40. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Lee Dunn says:

    Love the shop clean-up, but love saving older cars that much more!!

  41. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars SalandFindles says:

    Please unbend the backing plate where you smashed it with the hammer.

  42. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars UeverSEEN1ofTheseB4 says:

    Nice work Ray ! I can hardly wait to see this pony car careening recklessly and backwards down a sidewalk near me soon !

  43. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars pcspecialistpdx says:

    You talk about your nuts too often.

  44. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MrsMcKay1 says:

    Who’s doing the painting on the other side of the Mustang?

  45. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Craig Pennington says:

    Wish that they'd go back to recirculating ball steering. I hate R&P steering. R&P is fast but doesn't turn sharp enough. Always have to back up then finish your turn.

  46. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jim Tolar says:

    When the ball joints came out, you had to pull a cotter pin out of a castle nut. But the new ball joints didn't have them?

  47. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Tom Silvestro Jr says:

    All repairs are solely at the customer's discretion but those sway bar end links and bushings looked a little sketchy. It would've been a cheap, easy replacement while everything was apart. Maybe in part 3? 😉
    PS: Good catch remembering the strut bolt. 😬
    You ever straighten the left front dust shield smashed by the hammer?

  48. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars leonard tenhaaft says:

    YOU FORGOT TO DO THE TOP BOLT