I'm responsible for that I broke my own truck. stuff happens. Whatever. I'll fix it later.

Hi there everybody, Good day to you! Welcome back! Glad you guys are here! I know I'm super glad to be here because it's Friday date and Friday is the end of the work week and uh I'm super excited. So uh, there's a long-standing tradition around here on Friday where I try to take a little bit of me time to do some self-improvement project and that's what we're doing today here on the 2007. Chevrolet Silverado 3500 Dually with a 66 Duramax and 229 488 miles on the odometer. All right.

So what we're gonna do here, don't worry about that ABS light I know what that is. We'll fix that later. Uh, what we're going to do here is I'm gonna notice this thing into the shop because I need to get back to my hurricane season preparations. uh for this year.

Uh, if you guys were around last year and you recall, I had a power outage for uh I think about a week and I gotta go through the dog door. whoa whoa for Holy Smokes Never mind. I'm gonna stay right here for a minute. Oh I'm getting trashed.

you guys whew. Take cover Trevor and conceal me. they're firing on us I haven't even been drinking. All right.

Go Go Go! Generator's still going. Let me in. Oh it is sick out there. whoo Uh, last time we had a hurricane come through South slash Central Florida and because of that I had to run a series of power inverters I'm backed up sideways I had to run some power inverters to power my refrigerator, a fan, and some lights.

Now because of that I was idling my truck uh, overnight because I didn't want to run the generator 24 7. I was trying to conserve the gasoline, so what we did is we ran the generator during the daytime, got the well going, filled up some water, turned on the ice machines, made some ice, and then at night we hooked up just some small like 2000 Watt and 5000 watt power inverters, and then ran them off the truck. Now the problem that I had with that is I had to put in a throttle stop to give myself increased engine RPM while it was idling all night because you don't want to let it sit there at 6 700 RPM for 10 hours straight, you'd rather have it up to like 1100 1200 1300. That way you get a good seal on the Rings and you reduce blow-by and do not consume and burn up oil.

So what I have done in preparation for this season is I purchased what's called a high Idle kit which is basically a switch you install and it with that switch, it'll integrate into the PCM you cut a wire, splice it in I think you disconnect the fuse I got to read the directions again, but with that switch, I'll be able to use the cruise control to set my idle I think it's like 1300 or 1500 and an 1800 RPM idle that I can set with this truck. So I've got the kit over there on the toolbox. We're gonna bust open that kit and see if I can't get that thing installed this Friday afternoon. So stay tuned because this is going to be a really good video opening.

Z Hood is our brake rotor. There was a brake Rudder All right Silverado Powering down, pop the hood, take a look around real quick. Uh, make sure we don't need to do any repairs or maintenance work and then we'll go ahead and bust open that kit and uh oh, I'm here Hood It's all it's going to be involved in this unit. So we've got the big engine.

It's a six, six turbine powered diesel. Duramax So additionally, while we're on, Hurricane prep What I'm going to do back here is I'm not doing that today, but eventually I'm going to install a couple of deep cycle like Marine uh batteries back here to carry extra power. We're going to tie those in uh with a solenoid up front so I'll be able to hit a switch and it'll turn these batteries on. will not turn them on, but it'll connect these batteries with the vehicle's existing electrical system.

So while I'm running inverters and while I have the engine on I flip the switch on the solenoid. It ties them all together so the Nader will then charge these batteries as well as the vehicle batteries up front. So Eventually, what I need to do is run some heavy gauge wire back here to this toolbox, probably drill into it somewhere, run the wires inside, and then I can connect the inverter system, and I can connect the batteries in here. What I'll probably end up doing is just putting like some power outlets.

you know, maybe like right here or here or uh, no, no. I'll figure out where to put them, but I'll have an external power outlets on this unit so all I'd really have to do is hit the switch. it'll power on the inverters and then the inverters will supply 110 120 volts output. Probably I think I can get 20 amps out of it.

so I'll get a decent a decent amount of power on the output side. But step one is going to be achieving high idle and we have to have high idle because at idle speed, these alternators only put out like I think 20 30 percent of their rated capacity. So let's say that's a 100 amp alternator. Well, at idle speed, we're only making you know 15, 20, maybe 30 amps.

DC And that's just not enough to run a 110 120 volt power inverter. So we're going to need to be able to step this thing up on its idle. If this was a brand new truck, like a new F-350 or something like that, yeah, it would Be no problem. but since this is a old dinosaur 2007, we've got to do things a little bit differently.

So uh, during this operation I Do believe we're going to be inside of this PCM wiring harness down here and we're going to run some wires into the cabin and of course connect the switch somewhere to the dash. I'm thinking I'll use this port right here for the switch. like I do have a switch in there there that that switch used to run some lights. Uh, it no longer does anything.

So I think I'll take this switch out and then we can put in the high idle switch. Okay, so here's our kit. Uh, like I mentioned earlier I bought it from a company called B and D diesel or BD diesel. I've never really bought stuff from them before, but they seem to be the only Uh company that offers uh, such a kit to achieve the high idle in the Duramaxes Uh, it definitely says read the instructions it's for the GMC slash Chevrolet Duramax that's the LBZ RPO code high idle Kit only for automatic transmissions with cruise control.

So if you got a manual which I don't think they made those in a manual did they did they make those any manual? Let me know in the comment section I've never seen one out in the wild so I don't know. so we were on the right track earlier. As we can see from this pictograph, it tells us to remove the uh, the dash bezel because that's probably going to be the spot where we have to pull uh to install the switch. So I've already got the hole for the switch.

The bezel gonna come off fairly easily and we just need to figure out where to pin and connect these wires. I'll go through these in a minute and read the instructions and then we'll uh, we will go ahead and proceed. So for the time being, let's open up this uh hi idle kit here. Oh see, don't need that.

Let's see what we've got here in the Box It gave us some, uh, some zip ties. we've got a high idle label, looks like we've got a four prong switch. it's got a light inside to let us know we're in high idle mode and we've got two wires that are already pinned out I'm assuming that's going to be run to the ECM and we've got another one. That one I think goes to the fuse block for power.

and then of course we've got our eyelet right here for a ground cable show. Let's get this disconnected from here. Come here man, what have I done? I'll get it there. we go.

Got it. Since we are doing electrical work, there's only one thing that's actually required I guess to throw all of our waste on the floor, it's an electrician thing I Didn't make up the rules. that's just how it is. Okay, so let's get this: uh, this unit slash switch installed and pinned up into the ECM Now we can see and from the diagram, we've got our switch, got our ground, we've got our hot, then we've got our yellow, our splices off and that's the one that connects to the two pins that go to the uh, the ECM.

So it's a fairly simple installation and I believe the truck already supports the feature. It just doesn't have the hardware so we're gonna go ahead and install the hardware. So let's get back into the cabin. Let's get some lights in here and we can pop off this Dash bezel.

Get to work So let's see. let's fire up some lumens surface of the Sun mode engage. I'm gonna engage the parking brake so the thing doesn't roll away. key back in there we go.

I guess I'll just click that on. leave it there for a little while. That's fine and all we've got to do is just kind of get a hold of this thing and pull a little bit of pressure. A little bit of pressure, a little bit of backing up pressure.

There we go. Steering column in the fold down position. We just sneak this unit right on out there. We go nice and easy unless you break it.

So now let's put her back in park. Key off so we can see right here. I've already got a switch installed, but I don't want to use this switch. so let's go ahead and unscrew this guy.

Oh no, this switch is too large. Look the bore on this one or the diameter on this one is a lot larger than new. Switch that's not what I counted on. Yeah, look at that.

That's really small. It's not gonna work. I need to drill a new Switch So I'm going to put this one back because it fills up that big old nasty hole. Tighten that bay right back down.

Loving my job! I'll just keep doing things there. we are all right. So I'm looking around and I'm trying to figure out where to mount the switch and how to drill another hole. and I you know I figured putting it like right here would be very nice and convenient.

It would make reaching this other switch somewhat harder. but I don't really use it because it's just a hole. but I don't really want to do that because if I add that switch to this position, it's going to put it at like this weird angle and it won't be square. So I'll have like a visual Gap and it'll a visual angle.

Rather, it won't look good because this piece has a taper. So I'm thinking rather than using this switch right here, I can just use this switch right here because this is a lighted switch. so it has a power and a ground and then it's got its single circuit to either power or ground. I'm not sure which one it is like, that's the ground for the light, that's the power for the light on the switch and probably the power or the the connection rather between this pin and this pin.

So really all we're doing with this modification is sending power to you can see the power or slash or ground slash resistance. We're just sending a signal to both those pins at the ECM using this switch which also happens to be lighted. So then I took a look at the harness on this existing switch and that is also a three wire switch. We got a black for ground, a red for power and there's a blue in there and that blue would equate to the load which is our yellow wire on this switch.

So what I'm going to do here is I'm just going to take this switch off and I'm going to use this switch in lieu of this switch. Thus, solving that entire section of the problem makes sense. it does to me. So that's what I'm going to do.

I'm just going to change that with that one and I like that one better. Anyway, this one, you could break it off or I mean it feels kind of Cheapo Anyway, it's plastic so I'd rather I'd rather use the one I've already got. so that's what I'm going to do. We are altering the plan, but first I need to actually make sure this is going to be a viable solution.

So let's cut this insulation off of this little pigtail thing here and we're gonna see. Well, we're going to test the switch first. I'd hate to do all these modifications to my modification and find out that the switch that is right here is not any good. You never know it's new I've never used it, but that doesn't mean it's it's good.

It just means I haven't used it yet. Get rid of that. It's not enough I need to cut back more doing stages. And the way I do this without cutting into the wires on the interior is to bend it.

You put a little cut in it and then bend it and it'll start to come apart. All right. So let's just do a simple continuity check on this switch to make sure it actually does work. Meter set to resistance I think I turned the alarm on Nope.

Beep! So continuity check that's going to tell us if these two wires make contact when the switch is commanded. Then we know that there isn't fat continuity. So we're going to check. I don't think it's the ground wire.

it's going to be the red and it's going to be the blue which is for the load I think or I'm way off and the ground is the is the low but that wouldn't make sense. Let's just find out. No continuity continuity. No continuity continuity.

So now let's just check. Let's check both of these to ground in either switch position. I Don't think there will be continuity because I think that this ground wire is just the ground for the lighting element inside of that switch. nada.

and NADA and NADA again. Okay, yep, that's just ground for the light inside of the switch. on and off. Okay, so this switch will be sufficient for the replacement application.

I Think let's just check the existing switch here. You guys see. I'm just gonna pin these little back uh connections right here. I'll just check those continuity, no continuity and we'll check the black wire which would be the ground.

Wait a minute here. so hang on. hang on the black and the yellow. So if I'm substituting in the black for the green or I'm sorry black for the blue, why does that one ground to the load wire? In both respects, those are always connecting All right.

Maybe the switch is configured differently which I said. All right. Well, I think that might have something to do with the lighting circuit. Uh, I'm gonna go ahead and proceed with my plan.

B Anyway, and I'm still going to try to use this switch. Worst case scenario: if it fails, I'll have to just drill a hole and put this one back in. So I'm gonna try this by substituting in my switch and not, uh, not using their switch. so let's go ahead and cut these off.

I'm going to keep a little bit of these connector connectors on that switch in case I have to use it I can just cut and splice so we'll set that aside. The other reason for this is for cutting this is I need to get this wire through the firewall and I already have a lot of stuff running through my firewall. so I'm gonna have to run this thing in from the outside to the inside because the other end where it connects to the PCM those have two very small and fragile pins and I'm not going to be able to shove these things through a rubber grommet inside of the existing firewall. All right.

So this thing here has had quite a bit of a extra things installed and run to it. So I do have wires that are coming through the firewall. we can look way back back in there. you see there's that blue one coming through.

I'm getting more light up in there. Come here. Lumens, There we go. Yeah, we see a bunch of wires I've got coming through.

There's some red ones, some black ones, and whatnot. So I'm going to try to run these wires through the same location. but again, we're going to do that from the firewall side. So let's grab our yellow connector here.

Our yellow harness. yellow wire, whatever You know what I meant the yellow thing and we're gonna push this through right there. That's the spot. So with absolutely zero certainty whatsoever, I'm just gonna try to push this straight through as it is and maybe I'll get lucky and it'll come out on the other side.

Uh, usually what I would do would would be to connect like a uh, like a coat hanger to it like a wire hanger and use the rigidity of the wire hanger to pass it through the rubber. I think I have so many wires running through that I might be able to, uh, just slip it on in between them since that is a small gauge wire after all. So I think I got about four five, six inches through. Let's uh, let's go back down here and I'll see if it came through or not.

And from what I can tell I can't see nothing. What is this? Is there yellow? or is there no yellow? Can you guys see? Yeah, look at that. There it is. We can see it with the cam, but I can't see it in like in real life Time here.

try to reach it. I know you're in there. I See you Yellow wire. Here's what we're gonna do.

I'm looking. there's some of it. It's kind of got it. I saw it through my camera.

Yes, that's what we need. Okay, so this is the wire it's gonna run up to. Oh, let me get out of here up to the switch. It's gonna end up right here.

So let's get our fuse panel off of there and figure out the best way to run this and Route it through all right. So we've got it on this side of a all of our Dash components. so it's running from the firewall all the way through and I'm gonna root it over here where I can reach a little better. So let's give this kind of a more of a tug here and pull it through some more.

There we go and that should be enough to run up into the switch. So climb on up out of here. Oh there. So now I need to get this wire up into here I wonder if I should just pull the knee bolster off? nah I can do it without I've been in here before plenty of times I think says I Okay, I've got that wire pulled up from down below.

That should be sufficient slack to make the connection I do have more wire left over on that side so I'll be able to pull slack out of both ends according to our instructions. We're going to need to connect our red wire to the fuse panel and that's going to be done right here with a fuse tapping device. that is this little guy right here. I'll show you how that works in a minute and we're looking for our 15 amp cruise control fuse located over here in our fuse blocks.

So where's my uh, my cover cover cover right in front of me I know it's a 10 amp Cruise I'm sorry 10 amp Cruise that's the Uh one, two three four down next to a brake fuse next to some connectors. So I think we're looking at one two three four down. That's this one right here. Come here.

Yep, that's our guy. So now what we need to do is connect this little fuse tapping device that they were talking about that's going to slide over one of the pins and I don't believe it matters which one I Got here there, we need to re-situate a little bit in order to capture how this is going to go. So the way this thing works is this little guy is going to slide over this fuse and make contact with one of the pins at which point it leaves this little Spade sticking out and then I can connect that little Spade to our red wire with its connector. So we need to slip this thing like over.

Probably easier said than done. Actually, we'll grab it with some pliers and push it through. Or do you not want to go? It doesn't want to go. look Ah very very very tight squeeze.

Okay so yeah, it doesn't want to go. Tell you what I'm gonna bend that some we're gonna Flex it and I'll Flex it back later. Yes, that's how this is gonna work and we can Flex this guy back re-bend it how it's supposed to be. See that.

So now when I plug this into the fuse box, I can connect a wire to it to pull power out of that uh, that particular circuit and again, that's the cruise control circuit that we're using. So let's plug this unit back in right in there and it won't matter which side you use because the fuse is. well, it's got power on both sides so it doesn't matter if that little pin out thing is on the left side or or the right side. There we go.

you're plugged in gravity of tools. So now we need to take where's my red splice. There's our red wire. so we've got a red and the black.

The red will be connected to our little splice device here and then we black connect black to ground plugged in. There we go. good. I Like it.

I might use this for ground right here. That's a good spot. Sure, why not? So now I need to run this red and this black in and behind the fuse box and then have it meet up over here and come out to meet with the yellow. and uh, that way we can connect it to the switch together.

Come on, get up there! I Got my fingertip on it because I'm feeding it up I can feel it. Oh I got one wire. there's the second one. I got him I think I got him.

Aha Yep, got him. Okay, got our positive, got our negative, got our load wire all right. Hey, this is working out all right. So let's get on with it real quick and start making some connections.

So we've got our got our power supply connection and our ground is running down. I'm gonna ground this connection to that little bolt. See that guy right in there. There's a nut that goes on this bracket for this module.

Yeah, there it is. Yeah, right there there it is. That's uh. that's what we're gonna ground this to I Think that's probably a really good ground.

It's fairly easy to get to, it's in a compact location, and uh, it's not gonna get caught on anything. I don't have to splice any wires. so I like that one and that's the one we're going to be working with If I get this nut off. Okay, I'm gonna do with my eyelet.

Where are you? Where are you ground wire There it is. Found it. It's sticking out, sticking in, lost it, Found it. You guys see, yeah.

foreign is when I tighten this. it's going to rotate that eyelet. So I'm going to point that down that way. as it tightens, it'll rotate it clockwise and it'll be pointed in the hopefully most desired position.

Try that or it won't rotate. It's going to make a liar out of me. Figures. Anyway, that thing's grounded.

now that's tight. so we're good there. So now we've got a power, a ground, and a wire running out to the under hood compartment. Dude.

All right. So we're going to need to make, uh, some connections on all these wires right here. So let me go ahead and strip these guys back real fast again. I'm throwing my electrical waste right on the floor.

That's how it's done. Don't fight the universe, people. don't fight it. So there's our wires kind of dangling out.

That red one is actually hot when the key is on. So I need to make sure we don't ground it out. Let's get our steering wheel tilted back key back on. We're going back into first because now I need to get this thing set up back in position and we can go ahead and connect those wires.

This is kind of annoying if I need to take this back apart I'll have to cut those off. but um I don't have like a connection or connect door at this time to to connect it with. so we're just going to hook them up solid wire and that's going to be that. and not even kidding.

We're just going to use some crimp connectors here. No heat shrink, no solder, none of the the normal Primo stuff. This is just interior wire and it's fine without all the fancy stuff. it's fine but I Will double it over to fit the crimp connector a little bit better.

See that that's where we want it right there. I Measured with my finger now. Okay, that one's crimped on Raw Repeat Ground wire. Repeat.

Double that over. like so we'll measure where we want it right there. Bam. Number two and at numeral pace.

I'll double it over. That's not gonna fit. Oh, it's too thick. Yeah, huh? Okay, well I botched this one.

Let's try it again. I'm not gonna double this one over. I'm gonna forgive my Slurage Beach I Have a have one of these in my mouth right there. Okay, Three Crimps crimped and installed.

Let's take the three wires out of the bottom of our switch and get these guys crimped and installed. There's much less space here, a little off center on that one. You know it's crimping a bunch of times there. That one's on.

now. the Red's gonna go to the red and the blue to the yellow. That's what we discussed earlier, right? Sure. I Like washing paint dry, isn't it? You guys gonna spend 43 minutes watching me make electrical connections with red? Walmart Crimp connectors? All right.

This is a premium entertainment. Better than cable. TV Actually I I Kind of believe that I Think that this is better than watching programmed television. There's less propaganda Canceled.

I Just said that. there's our crimp. Tight, tight tight. Okay, that's good.

Now we can back it up and we'll get this Bezel thing flipped back into position. Someone's calling. We need to go ahead and get this thing slipped down in position now. Real easy to do.

Just don't gouge up the vinyl. I'll tuck those little wires back in the hole. There is a kind of a cavity over there that lets all that stuff kind of have a home and we now just need to line up all of our pins and clips again and get this. uh, Bezel pushed back in position here.

Let's give it some pushes back in park. Key off. Good to go. All right.

So now let's go over here and check our switch. Okay, nothing happened, right? Let's key it on. hit the switch and it illuminated. See that so we have power and ground to our switch.

Get back on and I'll key it off real quick and we lose power with key off. Okay, very good. So that'll be our new, uh, high idle switch again. The system is controlled with cruise control.

Stop dinging at me please. So now all we need to do is go fetch the other end of that yellow wire under the dash and pin that into the two pins at the ECM And once that's done, the system should function as intended. Okay, so back over here under the hood. We need to detach these ECM connectors down there without our modules.

so let me get a good foot hold in here. Climb up, get up in this here. Nice and deep black, huh? It's actually pretty deep like. and it says to disconnect both connectors.

So I'm gonna assume that the upper connector here is locked in and can't be released until uh, the lower is removed. I Think trying to find the little tab to release these, push that harness out of the way or pull it up out of the way. Either one. Okay, pry that lever up, draw, and then this lever down.

Come on out of there you. I've never had these uh ECM connectors disconnected before. Yeah, those are in there. Plenty of dirt.

you're stuck with dirts. All right. That's our lower connector and the one we're looking for is the upper connector right here. So let's get behind the lever on that one.

The lever locks the connector to its uh, to its module. You're cool as long as you don't break the little plastic lever off. see that how that works? Come on you. There we go.

Got it. Okay, this part of the harness is coming loose. Let's pull this up a little higher so we can kind of work on it and see what we're looking at here. Let's spin you guys around.

That's uh, that's our guy. Okay, alrighty. so now, according to our destructions, we need to remove the clips from the rear cover on the connector. You can see the lever.

Here's our connector, There's one of the clips, there's probably one over there, and then there's probably one more around the back side. So back to our harness. Here, there's our clip. Let's unclip that one.

We'll unclip it from the other side right there. And then we're good. That's dirty in there too. Look at that.

I Need to blow that out compressor on? No gun. Let's get all the dust out of the back of this guy. Okay, so back to our destructions in our connector. It looks like we are looking for pin Eight and pin number 60..

those are the pins that we're going to connect these two pins on our yellow wire. See those guys. So see if we can zoom and get a good view on this. But if we look real real, real close on this connector, we can see the labels.

See right here. There's uh, there's pin number one and then all the way over here. on the other side, we have pin 24. So that's up here in the top row.

Okay, foreign. It's out of focus. Okay, so up here on the top row, we've got pin 1 through 24. That makes this one right here.

25 and that makes that one I Don't know what? 50. And then we've got our last pin is 96 and 73. So one two three four five six seven. that's pin number Eight right there.

And then Pin 60. That's 73. That means that's 72s, 170. 1060.

one of those three I'll have to recount it. but I think that's pin 60. So we got Pin Eight and Pin 60. that's where we need to connect our our two yellow connectors on our yellow wire harness.

Now bear with me. I've got a double, triple, and quadruple. check this one because once these things get pinned, they're not going to, uh, want to disconnect All right now. we're gonna have a pin retainer that's gonna allow me to pin and d-pin any of these wires.

And I believe it's this little purple guy right here. So let's uh, let's slide that out there. We go. That's going to allow me to remove or install some of the pins.

So let's go with number eight first. So there's one, two, three, four, Five, Six, Seven Eight and it looks empty from here. I Don't know if you guys, but that's the empty pin. so we'll flip it around at the top row on this side.

Here's our top row and if we count the back side, pin One two, three, four, five, Six Seven, and Eight is in fact an empty pin. See the hole right there. Eight is empty. So we're gonna take this little guy and feed that in very carefully to Pin Eight.

Move the stuff aside. here. There we go, and that's in. It's clipped.

So we have now one wire pinned into pin number Eight on our top side and the other pin was number 60. So going back to our and that's 73, So that means the top of the second to last row is pin 72 and we will count backwards from 72. At that top one, this one might be a little harder to see. All right.

So we have 72, 71, 70, 69, 68, 67 66 is blank, 65 is Blue 64. is blank, 63 is orange, 62 is black, 61 is gray and way down in there. Pin number 60 is empty. so we're going to pin you right into number 60.

I Heard it click. Okay, this connector is now connected into our harness. Beautiful! Now we can take our retainer plate, slide that guy back in. We'll run these guys over, zip tie them, and then we can go ahead and put our little cover back on and get this guy reconnected.

We're almost done here in the home stretch zip tie coming in. pull this guy up some and I'm going to zip tie it out here. outside of the harness. That way, one could tell that there happens to be an additional circuit run into that connector.

Yeah, not super tight, just enough to kind of bundle it all together. that off to the floor. Now we may take a little cover here. Put that guy back on.

Good to go. Okay, let's tuck our wire back down, pull that tight. Then we can take our harness, harness slash connector. We'll get that back in position on the ECM Let's get that thing on there.

You guys see through that hole. I Think so. Chin up and over. Climbing on the hood here.

See, that's our upper connector. Move that one out of the way or no, no, the upper goes on first, doesn't it comes in. bottom one is kind of captured by this. TCM harness.

Let me pull this up and out of the way. some big old Catch 22. Nothing fits until it does. come on.

It's got little pegs on the side of the module that align with notches in the connector and we got to make sure all that stuff is lining up sliding into its little grooves before this uh lock will begin to lock. Almost there. we go see it. Okay, that's seated good.

We're in all right, so under the hood I just need to. uh, kind of loom this wire up and then detach it to a few things or attach it to something and then we can stash that and make it more pretty. but we can. uh, save that for later.

I'll do that later off camera if you guys don't want to watch me do any more boring work. let us restarting the engine and see if this is going to work. I Hope it works I Really do. I'm excited! beginning engine starts in sequence now.

Okay, so we have cruise control. Let's cruise on that's set and then high idle. It's not working. Oh I didn't push the button there I Idle off.

High Idle on. Oh cool. Oh no way. Look at that.

Idle down. Oh I Love this. This is so cool. that idle up so that's that's off.

That's regular idle mode one, mode two and mode three. How cool is that? See what happens if I hit the brakes and the brake shuts it down. Super cool I Like it now I Don't know if cruise control is affected yet I'm gonna have to go drive this to make sure. By the way I know I said I'd talk about that ABS uh light.

Yeah, you guys are going to wonder So I've got to show you this is actually my fault I caused this. Let's go back into an engine or into the wheel. Well here see that. see the wire.

It had a little clip that connected this wire to right here. That little clip came out and the wire was rubbing on the Wheel and it rubbed through. So I need to replace the uh the wheel speed sensor and that will fix the the problem here. Yeah, that one that was 100 my fault.

The connector did not stay connected and I did not ensure that it did. So I'm responsible for that I broke my own truck. Um, stuff happens. Whatever.

I'll fix it later. No big deal Laura Check this out. Come here. Watch this.

Watch what? I made okay. see the button. watch the button idle. win up and watch this one.

Oh there we go. more and then high idle. Yeah so if we have a hurricane there we go. If we have a hurricane and I need to run my power inverters and all that good stuff I could high idle the truck? you installed that? Yeah, just now.

So now the dirty Max has a high idle feature. What do you think? I think it's cool I like it I Like it. All right guys. I Think we're about done here.

The high idle is functional, powering down and truck firing down. So that being said, hope you enjoyed this video. I'm gonna go ahead and close this out right about now. If you did enjoy this video, let me know what you think about in the comment section down below.

If you liked it, don't forget that like button while you're down there and most importantly, ever sells A fantastic day. See you guys later in the video in a day, end of week, end of Silverado into transmission.