What once was a Cadillac is now a disassembled conglomeration of components. Look at that. 2004 Cadillac DTS It's got the 4.6 L I believe it is V8 Northstar Engine It's a quad Cam and this thing suffers from a Litany of leaks. So uh, rather than uh, fighting and fighting and fighting in chassis to get to all the components cuz we have leaks on this side, We have leaks On this side, we have leaks on on this side and we have leaks on that that side.

Rather than fighting the car to get a hold of all the components that are causing these leaks, we elected to just remove the engine and the transmission and the subframe and the axles and the struts from the vehicle. It comes down to one unit and now we have easy access to work on our powertrain. So for those of you who missed it or are unaware, this thing came in a few days ago. Uh.

customer stated that it was running rough. We had found misfires on cylinders 13, five and seven. Uh. what we had determined was one of the oxygen sensors was giving false data back to the ECM and the ECM did not know how much fuel to give the engine.

We repaired the drivability condition, threw a set of spark plugs in it as well, and we moved on to the leak detection uh segment of our inspection and we had found that the Uh Bank One valve cover gasket was leaking oil all over the place. The bank two valve cover gasket was also leaking oil all over the place. We had also found that the serpentine belt and all the accessory drives or accessory Drive components were Caked Up in oil that had been slung around from the drive belt. Uh, what it appeared to be is that the crankshaft front main seal was leaking and potentially the timing cover is leaking as well.

It's really hard to tell when they get this bad, uh, on the leak status scale because everything everything just gets coated and saturated with oil. and it's very, very difficult to pinpoint the source of the leaks. But going with what we knew, we knew there was leaks here. We knew there was leaks back here.

We know there's a leak here, possibly here, probably the rear crankshaft seal, and we had also found some coolant leaks. There was engine coolant dripping at the bottom of the water pump housing here, and there appeared to be some wash out going on at the gaskets between between the water pump housing, which crosses over between the two cylinder heads. There's four gaskets in there, two on this side and two on that side. Those are also known leakers on this engine.

So what we elected to do was, uh, either fix it, ride, or not fix it at all. So we dropped the engine out of it and we're going to basically reeal this Cadillac engine, clean it all up, get rid of all the dirt, and make this thing look shiny and brand new again now. Dave Was gracious enough to remove this power train from the chassis. So what we're going to do is go ahead and move in today and start disassembling all these components.

We're going to clean up everything that goes on and off of this engine and we're going to get the cover removed, crankshaft, the rest of these accessories. Uh, once that stuff's taken apart, we're going to move back around. start disassembling the rear side of the engine, and we're going to get this thermostat housing or or water pump housing and crossover pipe. uh, disassembled and removed.

We have Parts on the way. They're not going to be here for a couple days. so uh, this is going to be a multi-part video, but we're going to spread it out over a week or two. That way, I Don't inundate everybody with the same engine and same vehicle.

Uh, for like 3 days straight cuz I know you guys don't like that uping. Z Hood Look who that guy is. All righty. So let's go ahead and finish stripping off the front of the engine cover.

here. we'll get the idler pulley and and this, uh, that's the other pulley and uh, the belt tensioner. We're going to remove these guys to keep all the Fasteners with their components. That way nothing gets lost cuz we're stripping this down to pretty much nothing and we don't want to get things lost.

But yeah, look at this. this nasty caked in oil from the leaks. That's what we don't like. So next, we'll get this: uh, Harmonic Balancer SLC Crankshaft Pulley I believe I'm going to need to use a puller to pull this.

Let's just try it. Yeah, that's not going to come off. So we need a three jaw puller to get a hold of this and pull it off the crank. Actually I Changed my mind I'm not going to use a three jawed puller I'm going to use a three-fingered puller.

This is a Astro Tool uh, Part number 7845 if anyone's interested. Um, the three jaw pullers are supposed to connect here here and here and they just kind of pull this off. these ones. This one here.

This is going to lock into all these spokes right here. It's going to turn and lock in and then effectively, it's going to perform the same function. So let's pull the Uh. We'll pull that bolt out because there is a land on the end of this shaft right here that will contact the front of the crank and give it something to press against.

So let's get this thing set up. Okay, you see, right there in the middle, we've got that little land on the end of the rod that's going to act on crankshaft. Here we go contacted. Now we just need to get a wrench, tighten down this bolt and it's going to pull this.

Hub Taking the crank pulley with it and pulling it off of the crankshaft snout. uh I said snout. So I'll take a take a ratchet here. we're just going to kind of crank down on this I I Could use a uh a Pneumatic tool or an impact tool.

but I figure I'll just use this uh, manual ratchet. There's a kind of a rare occurrence on this channel. tend to just default straight to the power tools. Okay, yeah, I'm out of patience.

slippage. There we go. Unit is removed now. Someone has been in here before.

I think they changed the oil pan gasket. so I'm going to use some extra diligence to inspect uh everything we can to make sure there's nothing that was faulty that has been overlooked. For example, you can get grooves in your Uh sealing surface on the harmonic balancer here and if you were to reseal this with a new seal, the seal is going to ride in those grooves and it won't stop leaking. So I want to make sure everything is reusable here and will not leak after we put it back together.

I Don't feel we can see it, we can see where it rides but I don't feel a ridge in there which is good if you can feel it with your finger. chances are there's excessive wear and uh, the component should be considered for replacement. This one I think is okay. The rubber looks good on it.

it's not damaged from oil saturation. It may have been replaced. Once Upon A Time Yeah, this unit can stay. As for the seal in the front cover that does not look that great and is definitely going to be replaced.

I Believe that's uh of the original the original build here. Anyway, let's grab a 10 mm. we'll pull these cover bolts off and get this crank cover or timing cover removed from the engine. Let's get a magnet tray for our Fasteners here.

Let's pull these guys out. Uh-huh Not a good sign. That thing wasn't even tight. That tells me that that's not tight.

If we find the original gaskets in here, then they are compressed and loosened and would definitely be a cause of the leap. And you can see based on the saturation effect here that it is primarily focused at the bottom. uh of this covered. Very good.

Okay, that's all the Fasteners let's get to. Let's get this cover pulled off of here. Ah, there are our timing chains and here is the gasket in question. Oh yeah, See how this is a rubber impregnated plastic gasket got plastic? and then the Rubber seal is inside.

See how flat that rubber is right there? It's almost completely flush with the plastic. Now you'll find these metal inserts in this plastic. These prevent you from just tightening this bolts more and creating more clamping force uh, on the ceiling surface. So once it, uh, once that rubber compresses, it's done for and there's no amount of tightening that's going to save it.

So this thing is junk. We throw that off to the side. So so closer inspection. Under our cover here and we see.

this engine is equipped with three timing chains. We've got one chain that drives the oil pump that's this unit right here, and you've got a chain that drives these two cam shafts on the number two bank, and another chain that drives those two cam shafts on the number one bank. Which means we should have. yep, one, two, three tensioners, three sets of guides you're here in.

Uh, yeah, right there. This stuff looks pretty good. I Don't see a bunch of slack. The tensioners have not extended all the way.

Um, no, we don't plan on changing the timing chains while we're in here. Uh, this would be the time to do it. but at 46,000 Mi I don't see the need, uh, or a reason to justify uh, going in that deeply cuz if you adopt that frame of, uh, mentality, uh, what point do you stop? it's like, hey, while we're in there, let's change time chains. Well, while we're in here, let's put bearings in it.

Well, while we're in there, let's change. change the piston rings. You know you you. You can't stop.

So at some point you just got to fix what's broken and and walk away. Uh, if this was 180,000 Mi engine? Yeah, I'd be all about putting new chains in it. But at 40 something K I I don't really think that that justifies the expense uh, or the time unless my guy wants me to do it. That's a different story.

All righty. Moving on. we're now on the back side of the engine. Here's our throttle body I Want to go ahead and get this thing out of the way because we need to dig out all the bolts that are on this coolant crossover pipe.

So we're going to switch from oil leaks to coolant leaks I Do realize we have to do the valve covers, but a lot of us saw some valve cover work on this engine a couple days ago, so we don't need to go back into the exact same thing right now. If I have time at the end of this video, we'll pull them apart. but it's not necessary at this exact moment. So there's our throttle body.

She's all Caked Up With the carbon on the inside that's nasty. We'll clean that out before it goes back in here. Let's uh, pluck this thermostat out right here and make sure all the coolant is drained. Yeah, we're good there.

We're going to put a new thermostat in it too. Get rid of that. I'm going to reseal this water pump SL thermostat housing the pump is on the other side of this little conglomeration. but this Housing section here also has a gasket.

so we're going to pull this part and reseal this as well. I Think there's just four bolts 85 one and one hose of course and one dip stick. Well, that came out easy. What? Look at? that thing just fell right out.

Eat your hard out. I Do cars? My dipsticks come out okay? I Think that's uh, disconnected. Yeah, we're good there and we can see the back side of our water pump. and there is the impeller on our water pump right there.

Yeah, one of the least, uh, favorite features on this engine is the water pump is belt driven from this cam shaft right here. so the cam shaft runs through, connects to this pulley, and there's a little belt in a tensioner that runs the pulley. The Driven pulley on the water pump and the water pump is sandwiched between the cylinder head and this housing. So let's get this stuff taken apart.

We can pull this pump out of here. We've got one 10 mm bolt on the top side here holding on to, uh, this little bracket business for shield. It's a shield for the belt Really? not a bracket. words.

and then of course two more two nuts down here. Ding here. and there is our water pump belt drive situation here. What? I'll do.

There's a little flat on the back side of this tensioner. just un tension that belt. Pull that guy off now to remove the tensioner. See, here's the.

There's the pulley. There's the arm. Here's the bracket. This bracket is bolted on from this side of the housing.

So we've got these two 10 mil studs right here. and that's going to remove that water pump bracket, tensioner bracket, water pump, tensioner, bracket, or see how that went. And I'll put these bolts back in so they don't get lost. Now pull the belt out, which is really hard.

CU You got to squeeze it around that little pulley right there. Look at that. It's got to fit right through there and then through again. At the end of that pulley and the belt comes out.

One of the reasons uh, folks, didn't like this engine: tight squeeze super tight. So if the goal were to just remove the water pump, we'd be kind of okay. We can see way down in that hole. there's one of the bolts, two, three, four, and five, and usually you just have to reach in real tight like, and uh, and work on those bolts.

However, uh, we're going to pull off this entire housing assembly because we need to gain access to those gaskets right down there. See that gasket down there. that guy little orange looking thing. There's that one there.

There's another one up high, and again two on the other side. So we need to get this entire housing removed like a wasp nest or some dirt. All righty. So let's get the hardest ones first, which is going to be the pair of bolts under this wiring harness that you can't really remove.

So what we need to do: I Don't know if you guys can see back there? Yeah, there's two bolts in here. this one right here and then that one right there. Now that bolt is an absolute bear to get out of this car. While this thing is in chassis, it's It's almost impossible.

and it's definitely not possible to do without really losing your cool. You just. you just can't get it. It's not, it's just not there.

won't let you. Yeah. I Was hoping I could sneak that thing out of there with that low profile Universal but it just wasn't going to happen. Keep in mind, this is, uh, half an arms length down from the height of the hood.

So if you were leaning over, it's impossible. Nearly impossible to get this bolt out. And what's deceptive is there's one right next to it. That one right there.

See. And when you get that one out, you I think you got them all. but you didn't because there's one more hiding out. Look, you still can't get it out.

see that it comes out, but the threads are released but it will not come out of the component. That's fun. Well, anyway, let's get the one that we can reach going back in. Come on, turn there we go.

We're starting to drip some coolant out now. I Hear it? uh, draining into the bucket? Yeah, look at here. Can't get this one out either. Runs into this little uh runs in the back of the transmission so both of those are captured.

Fasteners That's cool. Anyway, up top, there's a 15 and another 13 over here. These pass all the way through this manifold that's not coming loose. Yeah, they bolt to the cylinder head in two locations.

Unkick that one. Crust dematic, Crack this guy loose. There we go. Got that one out.

Okay, so that's four on this side. There's going to be four more on the other side. So let's go around this engine and get set up over there on that corner and we will just assemble the rest of this uh, coolant crossover business. So over here on the back side is where it gets interesting.

Um, but real quick while we're here. I Need to clarify something. I Was calling this an EGR valve the other day when I was doing the spark plugs and the O2 sensor on this engine and that is because this device look looks remarkably similar to this device and I just failed to notice that the actual EGR valve was inches away from me. But this is the exhaust gas recirculation valve.

You can see it's got the plumbing that runs into the exhaust manifold down here. What this thing will do is the valve. will open up, Exhaust gases will come through the tube and it will reintroduce them into the intake stream and then reburn them again. This valve is the secondary air injection pump.

There is an air pump on the engine that feeds pressurized air into this valve and then this valve, when it's open, will send that air into the exhaust manifold. uh, providing uh, oxygen in order to create a hotter burn and to reduce certain types of emissions under certain conditions. It's not a very popular system anymore, but once upon a time, uh, we were pumping air into the converters in order to get them to uh, the most appropriate and efficient temperature that's now achieved with fuel mapping with the ECM. But back in the day, we just pumped air into the exhaust, trying all kinds of stuff to uh, meet the requirements of the Environmental Protection Agency Okay, and as you can see, this EGR system is integrated into this coolant.

uh, crossover business know we Bend this guy out of the way. It's a flex pipe so we have no, uh, no worry about damaging it. I'll put the bolt back where it goes. Now look at here.

There's a coolant temp sensor buried down there under the cylinder head. Disconnect that guy and we're going to be looking for one bolt here. two bolts. There's that other other little guy that that pair of bolts that you can't get out.

Those guys are down there and then the other two up top. a little bit higher. right here and right over here. I'm afraid that I have no choice but to get these guys out manually.

Be careful. Well, it's also Dave and I talking about saving things. It's also in our nature just considering the job because you never know when something's going to break or get lost or not work properly and you happen to have hey, the thing on the shelf that I've been saving for 15 years, that'll fit perfectly right here. So I guess it kind of comes with the territory, but if you really think about it, that thing you've been saving for 15 years when when you need it, you don't know where it is.

Yeah, you're not wrong, but it's there somewhere so if you need it bad enough, you'll go find it. You will go find it. That's just that's the way it works. Almost got that bolt out of there.

That one's got a bunch of red stuff on it. looks like it's a was leaking coolant back here as well. It's got like the Crusty Dex Cool leak evidence going on with it, you know? I bet I won't be able to get these bolts out either. I'm concerned about taking them so loose where it locks my ratchet in and I won't be able to get the ratchet out.

uhhuh H there we go. Ratchet has no more and it doesn't turn by hand yet. That's fun. Yeah, bring that by hand is not happening.

164 of a turn at a time or about I don't know. 35 maybe. Uh, don't check my math on that. I Know that that's not inaccurate conversion from degrees to Uh.

fractions. It worked in my head though, but on paper, it won't work like communism. Isms. It's all the Isms.

The Isms today have the problem. Everybody's fighting for their Isms and if we had no Isms, maybe we would have less fighting cuz all the Isms are causing more fighting. like Cadillac ISM the Bolt's turning. Okay, the bolt is now unthreaded, but again, like the other side, it's not going to come out is Bo Yet There we go.

it's turning and the threads are out. It moves. but again, this one's not coming out. so that's six down.

I Think there's two to go. one here and then one behind this harness. unplug this guy, pull harness back some okay and I believe that's all of the fasen. I Think no.

Hang on I'm wrong. Something's not right. There's something else holding on to this thing. It's up top spilling a lot of coolant.

Oh, you know what? There's a. there's a throttle body extension here. This little manifold connects to the intake manifold. It's crossover, rather connects to the intake manifold so we need to pull.

I Think the fuel lines does have to come out. Um well. I know I need to get that hose clamp removed and then this thing should pop off of the intake manifold, right? So I have decided that this engine is designed to make people quit their job and I Thorough. Believe that? uh, it's like a giant Pandora's Box SL Catch22 Impossible Chinese Puzzle Uh, because I think I have to take the intake manifold off to uh, get this to come apart.

Well, I can probably get it apart without pulling the intake off. but I think getting it back together would be a challenge. So since it's here, and since we're resealing everything, I'm just going to pull the intake off with it. That's just uh, how this is working out.

So in order to get this off, I need to get the fuel rails off. so let us unbolt the fuel rails. I should probably go ahead and disconnect the injectors before I do that. They might be hard to remove with the rails.

uh attached. Put that guy back. There's another one hiding out down here. Disconnect this part of the harness.

There we go. Now, the harness is kind of out of the way good. Okay, so that's one side. Let's get the ones pulled off of the roof rear.

Dave Got most of them. You got them all. Dave y Okay, so that's good. Now now we can go ahead and pull this fuel rail out of here.

We got four studs that one's Stuck Like I said we're resealing Everything looks like one more right here. I Wonder this is going to come out easily or or not a little driver here? just give him some. Wiggles The injectors are holding this in in there secured with O-rings so we have to overcome the friction of the O-rings or break them. There we go.

that one's coming out, second one's coming out. Those two came out, that's good. and the other side I'm starting at the back because the rail terminates and so all of my Leverage is being applied to just one injector. If I start in the back, there we go.

Okay, fuel rails coming out, leaking fuel everywhere. So now that, uh, that fuel rail is out of the way, I can get to these fasteners for the clamps here. Um, one thing to note, look down in that hole down there. you guys see that that's the starter.

Yeah, that's the starter for this engine down there under the intake. Another reason folks to really did not appreciate this particular motor. Okay, there's two clamps on this intake boot business. I'm going to pull them both off, take them both loose rather, and see which one wants to give away neither here.

let's just pry on it some. Okay, it's starting to come apart, just not that intake boot right there There we go, we have separation, but we can't go very far cuz now it's running into the transmission but it is starting to come apart. There we go. Aha gravity.

Okay, this thing's loose. Let's throw the harness. We disconnected it. When you guys aren't looking, throw the harness over there.

One more connection connected to this little housing business. and I think we can s this out of here I Know no, no. The bowl I'm I'm looking for Oh you? I'm looking for my extension. Yeah and you're over there taking it apart.

You were way ahead of me I don't know where. put my gun. it is under the engine by my left foot. This where your gun is.

You get it? Yeah, Old Way helps you to appreciate the power tools. It really does Okay I think I think it's still stuck. It's less stuck than it was. Oh, the water pump p is getting me and the bolts sticking out between the transmission and the housing.

There we go. Oh there. now we got it. Look at that.

this stupid thing. Yeah, all right. So now that that all all that business is out of the way, we can see what we're what we are looking for here. See this coolant passage right there.

There's this coolant passage up here, that gasket stuck to here. Oh, there's that one there. That's the third one. Look at that gasket.

There's our fourth one and this one's not going to come off. That's pretty stuck. We'll fry it off later with a screwdriver or or now cuz I'm impatient. Stick my fingertips in there.

Yeah, look at here, this one's even broken. Mhm. Not really great for cealing coolant. Under Pressure Let's go check the Uh manifold side.

So each of these guys was going in this location and this location. Here we can see the uh, the other two gaskets see how they're flattened out. There's a crack in the plastic right there. right here at the top.

See a little crack? Yeah, these were our leakers. Trouble is is folks will diagnose this as a leak at the water pump and they'll throw a water pump in it. not realizing the the actual problem is right there. You can bet money if you got a coolant leak it's coming from these guys.

Well, we've come this far. might as well keep going. Let's go ahead and pull these Uh coils and everything back out. I Was already in here earlier that's not going to come off and uh, we'll get these valve covers removed now.

I think I need to remove this uh water pump Drive pulley before the valve cover cover comes off I I Don't remember exactly but I'm pretty sure that that pulley has to go away. so what I'll do is unbolt it and then if that's hanging us up, then uh, we'll pull that pulley off of there and then uh, kind of go from there. Yeah, I Can say it's probably been four or 5 years since I've done, uh, done a water pump on one of these things and I I just don't remember I don't remember. it's something.

tells me I'm going to have to pull that thing apart. Anyway, as of right now, we're pulling the coils off. Get these guys out of the way. There you go.

Little rubber guy down there. Beautiful. Okay, more 10 mm action. There's a ground, uh, gravity.

We've got a little ground strap right here, pull that guy out out and then we'll get to the Uh perimeter bolts. It's a shouldered bolt that I just dropped one. The gravity is strong against me today. All of these bolts have a witness marks on the head as if they were, uh, removed at some point.

I Don't know if there's Center bolts in this or not. so we're going to take these out. Uh no, there are no Center bolts. Okay, sometimes you have them and sometimes you don't and this is the time of you.

don't see we got that one already. That one there o this extension is not good. It's worn out on the drive or the driven side. It's falling off of my my gun here.

Yeah, okay. the cover is loose and looks like I do have to remove this uh water pump pulley right here. So we're going to do that with a power steering pulley puller little device that's going to engage the uh, the lip right here around this pulley and then press against the stud in order to remove it. So got two halves of this clam shell.

those are going to slip around it that slips over it to hold on to it and not that one. Maybe this one. Uh, negative. that one doesn't fit front row.

Yeah, it's going to have to be that one. So this threaded stud is going to act on the cam shaft and it's going to pull on this appar Rus here and then pull this unit off the cam. It's just a press fit. So what? We'll do the ratchet wrench on the the stud part.

here. We're just going to tighten this down again. It's pushing against the cam and pulling the pulley off the can. Now, it might break, which it looks like it's going to if it breaks.

Uh, these pulleys are available. They're just plastic. So if I uh I snap this thing off which it's breaking, then I'll just break it all the way and get a new one. Let's see what, uh, what our mode of failure is here.

It's probably pulling off the little plastic lip that's on the actual pulley itself. Let's see what's happening. Yeah yeah, we're just pulling the uh, the puller like straight through the actual pulley. That's all that's happening here.

Very loose tolerances I Think it. I Think it moved, but we'll just rotate it 180 and try again. see what happens. Let's try it like that.

it's already running sideways. Yeah, we broke it. I'm just going to send it and see what happens. oo I Have an idea.

Hose Clamp: I Know what to do here I will put a hose clamp on it instead of that factory little collar piece that way. I can really, really wrench down on this and hopefully it'll squeeze it enough to actually pull that pulley off. It's either going to work or it's not. but I think we're already into it with the a pulley replacement at this point.

I've been prying on it and scratching it and something just cracked and broke. or I stripped out my hose clamp. What a piece of crap look I Stripped the hose clamp out H Air hammer. We're getting close.

Snap There we go. Got it there? she is. That's the pulley and that little plate right there. That's the reason that this guy wouldn't come apart that little guy.

So let's clear the tools out of here. We'll work that thing off. You guys go over there. It's All Coming Back to Me Now Yes I Remember this, don't remember that these are seal.

Need to get a new one of those. Ah, there we go. Vila Well, one thing I can say is the inside of this engine is super clean. There is, uh, almost zero sludge whatsoever.

Nothing. There's Nothing. going on inside of this motor. It's brilliant.

It's Immaculate all most perfect. But what's not perfect are these gaskets right here. I Found a source of a leaker. see this one see how it's rolled and folded over.

Somebody attempted to reseal these gaskets once and they did not get this gasket set up properly. They had it smashed. just like that. See that smashed here.

It was smashed here. I Don't know if that was a 100% uh, a massive leak or a small leak, but it wasn't right and it's been a while since these were done. I Don't believe they're original cuz they are blue. Which leads me to believe these were.

Fel Pro Gaskets tell you know they're good cuz they're blue. but uh, these ones here are they weren't installed right. Something's wrong. They need to be replaced.

These guys are going away. Yeah, look at that. Not okay, not normal. All righty around here.

On the back side, we have to pull the air pump, it's bracket, pull the hose off, and lay this thing aside. Then we can, uh, get the cover removed 10 mil. Again, we'll get uh, these guys disconnected down here. let this thing kind of dangle back over there.

That's good. I think let's see no cam seal on this one. I believe I Can leave the coils in actually. so let just pull these perimeter bolts out.

Oh, another ground strap down here. See that guy? ground strap See a couple more up top on the left. Gravity on the ground. Okay, here comes our cover.

and this gasket is in good shape. That one looks good, but it was still leaking cuz there's oil everywhere dripping out of it. Okay, well, we've come this far. Might as well keep going.

Look at that. Look at that intake manifold bolt. It wasn't even tight. Look at that one.

Yeah, he needs intake manifold gaskets too. Look at those. Oh that one was kind of tight. You hear that one click.

Wow. Four out of five had no torque on them. Let's try this one loose. That one was tight.

That was sort of touching. Yeah, yeah, we're uh. definitely going to do intake. Man Full bolts as well.

Gaskets, gaskets, not bolts. I was looking at bolts when I said that. H Yep, there's our starter. That's the starter.

We got the nox sensors one there, one there and I see some oil down here, but I'm not really certain what kind of source we have for set oil head gaskets. Look at that. Wonder if this has the North Star head gasket leak? That's not cool, but it's not pulling up like not a whole bunch. I Think that's just normal.

Probably just normal for this engine. Everything leaking? okay? uh. let's take a gander down inside of our valves and we'll see what our valves are looking like, see if they're all carboned up, or if they're just as clean as the cam shafts get a little closer in there. Magnificent.

This thing is super clean. There's almost nothing built up on anything. It's fantastic. Good.

These are good. and those are good. And you guys see, there's a bunch of plastic down in there that fell from the from the intake when I took it apart. Uh, have no fear, we can blow this out and it will not be a problem.

So another thing to notice is that only two of these intake valves are open at a time. We got this cylinder right here. I think that's number five No No 1 Three Yeah, it's number five and then two. Number Number four.

I think that's four. Those ones are open. so there's only two that are open at a time. That means two cylinders are on the compression stroke, two cylinders are on the exhaust stroke, and then two cylinders are on the power stroke cuz it's a V8 for cycle.

So what I'm going to do is we're going to plug the holes that have the valves that are open with some towels, blow the debris off the top section, then we'll blow the debris out of the ones that have the Uh valves that are open, replug them, and then blow the rest of the debris out of the other hole. All right. Air gun coming in, blue towels coming in. uh-oh I Have no air pressure R R I wonder if my compressor is off and it is okay? Anyway, we get some air built up and then we'll blow this thing out and then go from there.

So while the compressor is coming up, we'll just throw some Uh Fender covers here over the valve train. This will prevent uh contamination. Got another one for the front valve cover area. Go and just put that on there nice and sealed up like good.

one blue towel and for the port right in front of us. two blue towels. Ah ah ah. three cookies.

So now we can blow the rest of this debris out of here. Oh that was loud. Ow it hit like a perfect pitch that hurt my ear. was horrible.

Anyway, let's wipe this down a little bit. make it nice and shiny like there we go. Same thing on the front side. It doesn't have to be spotless.

we just got to get rid of all the nasty. There we go. Beautiful! Okay this is uh, this section is good. Throw the towel over these just to to make sure no 10 mm sockets fall in there.

Get one more right here. that's good. Now that's knif and nice and safe and secure. And at this point I think we're close to a parts hold.

Um I Haven't decided if we're going to take this engine off of the transmission yet and replace the rear main seal. Uh I Know we need to do the front now. My customer tells me that they had, uh, someone had already replaced the oil pan gasket or the the seiling ceiling inside the gasket at some point and what we had found out is that there's a broken bolt right here. uh, inside of this front structure cover.

So I I'm on the fence about it I may end up taking this engine off of here, flipping it over on the stand and fixing this broken bolt business cuz if this leaks right here and I think it might be, um, all of my efforts uh right now are going to be wasted. I Think we are are going to uh, take this engine off the trans and flip it over and do the bottom end work as well I haven't decided yet and my customer hasn't decided that yet. but uh, it looks like that might be the direction we're going to go. Uh.

Regardless, at this point I think this has gone on long enough. Um, we're kind of at a stopping point cuz I don't have parts and again, the engine is attached to the transmission. Uh, there are decisions to be made. so uh, we're going to have to Circle back to this thing uh at a later time for the uh next edition of this 4.6 L Cadillac Northstar Engine So guys, that being said, I have nothing more to offer you on this particular video other than I Thank you for watching this video as always.

hope you enjoyed this video. Let me know what you think about this situation in the comment section down below. Do not forget to tap that like button wire down there and most importantly, have yourselves a great day! See you guys Later in the video into Northstar into 46 nightmare and a transmission.