Hello Viewers! Good day to you! Welcome back! Glad you guys are here! This is a 2007 GMC Sierra I Think it's four wheel drive. It's got the 5.3 liter. That right? There is also a 2007, but that's the classic body style. This is the new body style which is now older because they've made new generations since then, but these were referred to as the new body style.

Silverado Sierra Anyway, customer states that when the engine is running that was close, they hear a uh, a loud like rattling clanking noise uh from down below and uh, there's also a check engine light turned on. So we've uh, we drugged the scan tool out here with us in the parking lot. Let's plug this thing in in and fire it up. We'll pull our trouble codes while that thing's booting up.

Let's go ahead restock. This is the engine here. Get that thing plugged in. You're getting engine starting sequence now.

Confirmation of our check engine light and it looks like our mileage on this particular Sierra is a 198 680 miles on the odometers. See that right there. Okay, Scan Tools powered up. Let's hit GMC see what our codes are while that thing's booting.

I'm gonna go ahead and nudge this thing into the building here and we'll go ahead and get started and see what uh, what's going with that noise down below Automatic ID Function beginning Pull It In pulling in, pulling in another Silverado over there on the rack, let's see what we get here. I'm probably gonna put this up in the air so I can see what's going on with that rattle noise down there. All right, we're in position, lift arms are centered at the driver. Throw this thing in park.

Got an 07 Sierra 5.3 that's an Ly5 RPO code and we're looking for engine and trouble codes. Go to engine real quick. like oh life units looking like she's packing up you out of here for the day. All right.

see you later, have a good afternoon. Bye All right codes Menu display codes Let's see what we've got here to play with these whole bunch of stuff here. P300 Engine misfire detected the 420 Catalyst System Efficiency low on Bank One P430 Catalyst System Low efficiency Bank Two P0523 Engine oil pressure sensor Circuit high symptom Zero Zero test failed since DTC clear p0573 The brake light switch number one has high circuit voltage. Okay, all right.

So according to these trouble codes, we have an issue with the efficiency readings of the catalytic converters on bank one and on Bank two. So what this means is that the O2 sensor that is Downstream of the converter. there's a sensor in before the converter and there's a sensor after the converter. The one after the converter is the monitor that while it monitors how efficient the converters are and it appears that both of those downstreams are saying or suggesting that each converter is not converting efficiently.

So let's back out of this menu. Let's head into Data and take a look at our downstream O2 sensor voltages and uh, we'll see what those things are telling us. the sensor data. There we go, collecting data scanning.

Okay HO2 Sensor Bank 2 Sensor one Uh no, no no, we're looking for Bank One sensor two and Bank two sensor two and we're looking at their voltages. Let's graph this real quick. Let's do a four graph. It's going to get our Upstreams and our Downstream So we have Bank One Sensor One Bank One sensor two, Bank two sensor one and Bank two sensor two.

So we're only gonna really focus on this graph and this graph right here. Now what we're noticing is there is almost no switching taking place between Those sensors. We can see how the Upstreams those are switching. High voltage, low voltage, high voltage, low voltage.

We should see a similar pattern on our Downstream O2s and we are not. So I Do not think that we've had two simultaneous sensor failures. So I'm not believing that we have a we have a biased O2 that is causing that efficiency code. We actually may have a problem with the cat if it was just a singular a single single words single or singular p430 or p420 code.

We could maybe take a look at the sensors, but seeing as how we have voltage stuck high on both of those I think we have a converter issue. Okay, let's go down below in a moment and uh, we can check that. uh, visually under the car. we might have to pull the converters off to take a look at them.

but I think there's an issue with the converter. So now we've got back into engine data. Let us look for the PID for engine oil pressure. If we take a look at our gauge cluster here, we can see that it does have an oil pressure reading.

Let's go ahead and shut her down. Key it on. We'll make sure this isn't a false reading where it's always saying it's at like 40 PSI key on engine off. There is no oil pressure restarting and we bumped up to 40 pounds.

Okay, we may just simply have an issue with the actual sending unit itself. I Believe on this engine. it's located behind the intake manifold. So let's see here.

Let's find our Hid for oil pressure sensor. oil pressure. No, no, no engine oil pressure switch in PSI says we're at 37.138 Let's give it some throttle here. Okay, pressure followed suit.

It went up with RPM. So the engine is making adequate oil pressure. the gauge is responding, but we did have a trouble code. so let's real quick.

I think I know what it might be. It's actually a fairly common issue. Let's go into what was I looking for. Let's go back into codes menu.

real quick. we're gonna. We're gonna utilize the future of the I Call it what did everybody else do? Button: No network available. What? You better log in, Begin connecting now.

All right. Logging back in I Had to reconnect to the network. so back to where we were with that uh, what did everybody else do? Button: They're all gonna say replace the oil pressure sending unit. Uh, that's what I was gonna say.

That's what I Believe the issue for that circuit. high coded code is a circuit high code. See, there's a there's a circuit high and a circuit low code. a circuit high would suggest.

Uh, for example, let's say um I don't know. Let's say there's a sensor right here in the steering wheel and if that sensor is monitored and I unplug that, it's going to give a circuit high code because there is not any resistance in that circuit. To tell the ECM What that particular sensor was doing so, it'll say circuit high inversely. If I were to take those wires of that uh, that sensor and short them together, it would get a circuit low code because now there's an extreme amount of resistance in that circuit because they were shorted together.

so it could code AS circuit low. So it doesn't mean that it's unplugged or it's shorted. just means that resistance went super super low on that particular circuit for whatever that system or code is and then it triggers the code. So just because you get a code for a component doesn't mean it's actually that component However, gravity wrench, gravity.

However, in this circumstance, considering that I've changed a thousand of these things, I am very confident that it is in fact the oil pressure sending unit if it were circuit low I would do a little bit of resistance testing. But since we have a circuit high trouble code, we're going to end up replacing that sensor. In my guesstimation, or in my opinion, that's what I'm going to do. That's that's what I feel like doing here, but that is a fairly straightforward path to repair on on this situation, we're not going to pay attention to the brake switch circuit high voltage just yet.

This takes precedence over that, the engine oil pressure sensor, and the catalyst system efficiency takes precedent over that as well. Additionally, we have this P300 misfire right here. that very well could be caused by a clog converter. So let's say let's say those units are broken apart inside and they're flopping around.

It could be the noise that we hear if there's a restriction in that exhaust due to that broken converter. It can definitely cause misfires. So real quick. Let's back out of this and go into our live data function and let's just see if we can monitor current misfires that uh, that may be present here in this engine.

So let's see. We're gonna go. We're looking for data and misfire data. This is an older car so it may not be very quick to respond.

Let's see what we get here. We've got really nothing. Cylinder two, cylinder three, let's give it some throttle. Cylinder three has got a bunch cylinder seven cylinder, six Cylinder one.

All right. So all of our cylinders here are giving us some random intermittent misfires and I also hear that noise down there. So let's go ahead. power this thing down, get our door open, reaching down to Popsy Hood and let's take a look at the top of the engine.

We'll set the rack, get it up in the air, and then look at that exhaust down below. So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video opening. Z Hood All right, let's get. uh, let's get this hood open right here real quick.

like see what we got going on down below. So we have here a 5.3 liter V8 Chevrolet motor and our sensor in question is located way back there behind this intake manifold. Now there are some that say that they can reach back in there and just disconnect it and unplug it. Get the socket on it, pull the thing out, and they leave the intake in position.

I Don't do it that way. That's not not my favorite way to do it for a couple reasons. One, a lot of times there is a screen down inside of that oil pressure sender, oil supply hole that's inside of the engine block and that screen can become clogged with contaminants and that can cause a restriction to the sensor and you'll end up getting a low oil pressure condition and you extract that screen for cleaning or replacement with the intake in place. And reason number two: That sensing element back there.

Way down loud. He's actually very very very hard to reach. And yeah, you can dig your hand back there and reach in and fight. And like, fight some things and and try really hard to get that socket on there, but you're gonna pull your hand out and it's going to be cut up and sore or you're gonna fatigue your playing cheese and and potentially cause yourself some injury.

So in order to avoid all of that, and to do this properly, the intake manifold does in fact have to come off. It's not a huge deal, but the job is what it is. Yes, there is a way to circumvent doing the whole job properly, but uh, I just don't do it that way. I've tried to do those by reaching back.

it's not very fun and it hurts and I'm not going to try it again so that intake is going to come off. That also gives us an opportunity to change out the gaskets for the intake manifold. So because of that, the way is to do it properly or don't do it at all. So that's what we're looking like if we end up going back there to replace that sending unit.

However, the uh. the primary complaint on this car was the rattly noise. So let's get this thing up in the air and then we can visually inspect and see if those converters are in fact the cause of those trouble codes and that noise that's down there. All right.

Silverado's here. I'm moving on. up button. Get this thing all the way up in the air and we'll check.

uh, down below. Oh, you know what? Let's hop back in real quick like and uh and restart this engine that way. Uh Raw Climbing up here. that way we can try to listen to that rattle while it's up in the air.

Restocking's the engine. Yep. I Heard a clicky noise down there. All right.

Climbing back down there, we go. back up there, we go. Okay, let's take a peek. let's take a listen and see what we get.

All right. Well I See a valve cover, gasket leak? put the oil running down I Hear a noise? I'm here in the bell housing now it's it's in the converter. Yeah! I Hear it Right over here. seems to be the loudest.

Tell you what? Let us grab a Mallet real quick. we use the big one. Give that converter some tap action, see what happens? Oh yeah, yeah, you hear that. Yeah, these are junk.

So it appears that this converter and this converter. Are One Singular piece of pipe. that uh, that goes back to this flex pipe right here. so it looks like a replacement on those uh, those units are going to be the entire assembly.

Um, what? I want to do? Let's go ahead and let this thing down. We'll set her down. I'm going to shut the engine off because it's uh, it's come up to operate attempt so we need to cool her down and then uh, let me go and build this work order and I'll see if I can't get this job sold and then we'll go from there. All righty folks.

We got a green light to proceed. Uh, the parts on this, uh, particular truck are scattered to the wind. they they came from all over. Uh, Florida So because of that, I don't know what order they're all going to arrive.

So uh, I'm just going to start disassembly and whatever components show up. uh as we proceed is uh, what? we're going to install. but we are going to replace those catalytic converters that's a big Y-pipe assembly down below. We're going to pull this intake off.

We're going to change out that, uh, loud noises. We're going to change out that sensor up top and uh, probably the valve covers too because we noticed all that oil that was running down that one side. That'll more loud noises. we'll inspect.

Uh, we'll inspect those valve covers once this intake is off a little bit and then we can go from there. So the first order of business is going to be getting all these connectors disconnected. Let's pull these guys all out. There's evap hoses, there's vacuum lines, There's electrical connectors.

There's a fuel line on this side. We're going to take that alternator connector off just so it doesn't get broken on something. Probably have to pull off this power cable running across right here. and when you take the wiring harness loose and set that aside as well.

moving on to that wiring harness up here, sitting on top of the radiator support. reach back in there and get that 10 mil off this little plate, break it loose and spin that one out. and then we can take those other two off with the tool and that's going to separate this harness from the manifold. and then we'll get the fuel lines off and we can get the thing unbolted and removed.

You know, I did uh I did a similar job on one of these trucks. Probably say uh, maybe about a year ago I'll see if I cannot find the description to it and put a link for it. but folks went Ham on me because they were aware that that, uh, this job could be cheated by uh, just reaching back behind the manifold to get that sensor out. and they accused me of ripping off my customers and charging things unnecessarily and all these horrible things simply because I chose to do it the uh, the way that the manufacturer says to do it as opposed to cheating and they said it was unnecessary and I was a horrible person.

Um, I disagree with that because I don't think it was unnecessary because that's the procedure and no matter what you do, you can always follow the procedure and that's okay. You can, uh, what you can't do is take a huge massive shortcut I can't get this connector off. You can't take a huge massive shortcut and then build a full boat because that's moderately unethical. I don't know, what are you? what are you guys? thoughts on that.

If you find an easier way to do something and you cheat, can you still charge the same same billable hours? Or do you have to, uh, give a discount? So basically, do I have to charge less for being better at the job? Or can you still charge the same? Let me know in the comments section down below. all right off to our right sum: Let's disconnect our vacuum line. Get that thing out of the way and we also need to pull out. There's a PCB hose that attaches to the right side valve cover that this guy right here.

Let's pull that guy up and we broke the plastic or the rubber or whatever. No worries, do that. I'll fix that thing I Have to get a new one right? Here is our fuel line. Pull the clip back on that guy, Set that aside and then we need a tool to, uh, disconnect that fuel line.

But first, I think we need to lose this evap vacuum line right over here. Let me get that guy disconnected. Oh I Hate you guys with a screwdriver. sorry yesterday I Hit you with a flashlight.

Today's screwdriver broke that clip too. This is great. This truck is disintegrating like while we touch it. Yep, wiggle that guy off.

That clip is broken. No worries. I can fix that too. Okay, let's get these injector connectors unconnected real quick.

There's a couple more of them left. Got to get the ones on the other side as well because the injectors are going to stay on the fuel rail and the fuel rail is going to stay on the manifold. It's a two-stage connector. You gotta pull the clip tab thing up All right? Yeah, you got to pull up this little gray piece here and then press in on it and it's supposed to release.

The problem is is, they don't want to press very well. There we go. Got that one? So that's four. Let's get the uh, the four injectors disconnected on this side over here.

Then we'll get that fuel line. I'm doing the fuel line last. Hey Look, it's an engine peanut from some kind of a marsupial. Let's see if it's any good.

Maybe a rodent roasted peanut should I eat. it. Actually looks not bad if I was starving I could eat it I'm not gonna eat that one though. All right.

pack to business. Let's get these. uh, these connectors off and come on. We'll use that tool to help us.

Yeah, see that there. There's one. So much dirt in here. that one, that's six of these units.

Come on a little clip. There we go. Seven of them disconnected and that one out back should be fun. But see if we can get to that guy without too much heartache here.

Climbing back. oh my glasses are falling off my Noggin too. Let's get down there and pull this guy up. Come on see, that's the stuff that the book does not take into account.

Book Times say I should have had these injectors off already. When these things get loaded up full of dirt and debris and whatnot, you can't Well, it slows things down. What it does like a lot. Okay, that one's off.

so that's all eight injectors disconnected. Uh, I Think all we're lacking right now is the bolts and the fuel lines. Back at our fuel line on the driver's side, we've got a fuel line disconnect tool. A little scissor looking guy.

This thing is going to wrap around the fuel line and then it pushes into the connector right there and as it pushes in, it's going to release these little Clips inside of that connector and then the connector can slide free from the fuel line. So what I need to do is reach in, pull the fuel line towards this, push the tool away, and then wiggle the fuel line off of the fuel rail. It's so close and it's not doing it. One more attempt here.

I hear the little tabs in there clicking around that I have not released them. Let's try one more tool. Hey, let's try with this other tool. It's the same tool but with the deeper, uh, deeper, little uh.

business end. Rather, the other one started off the same life. but I had to cut it down once upon a time to fit. So I Uh now I have two try that again, push it in, wiggle it out, and fuel line disconnected.

There we go. defeating pressure, continuing to deplete pressure. Yeah, we're good. Okay, there's our fuel line.

Tuck that thing aside. Now we're in position to attack the eight millimeter bolts that hold this manifold down to the top of the engine alternator cable. You know, a lot of times. Also in the comments, folks will get very mad at me or not.

uh, are being dangerous with these cables because if I were to Arc this out on ground, it could cause a battery short. But what folks don't realize is this is an edited YouTube video and there's some parts like taking the battery terminal off and disconnecting it, then just go omitted. so don't worry, it's Okay We're Not Gonna earn anything? See that? Alrighty, now we are in our position to utilize our eight millimeter wobbly bit and get the uh, the bolts that hold this intake removed. So I believe there's a 10 of them, five on each side.

Let's get the let's get those guys disconnected here. Got our first one in the front I Know it's down low and y'all really can't come down there very well. The bolts are sandwiched between the fuel rail right here and the manifold behind it, so we're just gonna kind of have to just reach down to this extension and spin them all out. This is where it gets good because we start to run out of space with the firewall here, so we got to use the wobble feature.

Got another one way back there reaching back. Okay, okay, that's everything on the driver's side. Let's scoot on over here to the other side and we can see all these bolts a little bit more clearlier. Yeah, they're all right here.

One two, three, four five all the way back. So let's get these guys all buzzed out of here and then we should be able to extract this intake. Another come here and one more sneaky hidden boy way in the back. see if I can't I'm Gonna Change positions here.

Get all the way back in that hole, get our socket seated. Come on. Socket Yeah! I Think that's all of them. Let's back it up and give the front of this intake a tug here and see if she's uh oh yeah, she's loose.

Super loose. Okay, so what we need to do is bring this up. kind of turn it some and we're going to come out this way. Sneaking past our wiring harness here.

Yeah, she's gonna come out. I think I'm supposed to remove the alternator too. Let's sneak this guy out. I Think we're not going to because I know I don't have to.

The uh. The risk is you got to watch the connectors on this side because it is possible to break the connectors for the ignition coils. Try to sneak this out without removing that alternator. But if you just take care and don't yank the thing out, it should be okay.

Is there a time it meets a snag? You gotta stop and unsnag your snag. There it is that's nasty in there. Look at that. and here we go.

Look what we found back here. We found a shiny newish engine oil pressure sending unit. See that guy? Look at that. But chances are that's a cheapo aftermarket and uh, it's not giving us the proper resistance values.

So this thing is going away. Goodbye, don't need you, get rid of that. Now another thing we can see here is there's a whole lot of debris that ended up in this. uh, this.

Valley right here. Look at all that stuff sitting down here. So uh, what I'm gonna do is bust out the vacuum and we're gonna blow gun and vacuum out all those intake ports because I know that there is like plastic and dirt and nonsense. uh down in those holes, we need to clean that out.

otherwise we'll blow up another engine. That's all I need is a pile of blown up engines. I've already got uh I got three engines here that are blown up. There's a one in the Silverado there's one inside of a Pentastar minivan and then there's another one in that.

uh, there's the Chrysler PT Cruiser That one needs a cylinder head good right there. return of loud noises. Shop vac powering on. oh it's a lot of sand is not okay.

Get rid of that. This is going to be a multi-stage cleaning process because after we vacuum away the bulk of all the sand, I've got to come in here with a blow gun and then blow out all those holes because there is some dirt and sanding here. still vacuuming, still cleaning stuff it all out. You know, all right, glow gun time.

Let's finish this off. Okay, over here at the manifold, let's go ahead and get these old gaskets removed and those are horrible. Look at that. Yep, let's get rid of these guys I need that and we're gonna blow this thing out with some brake clean uh and a little spray nozzle as well.

There we go. Eric and coming in foreign. but what about all the stuff that's inside? Well, we can get rid of that as well or also or two watch. All we need to do is open up this throttle valve and we'll insert our air down into the hole.

So okay, that's good. Now we need to add some liquid cleaner to the mix way down, nice and deeply. send it through foreign shiny. Yeah, that's about as good as it's gonna get there.

We go. All right, let's set that thing aside till later. Next, we know we won't because the outside's covered in dirt too. All right now, we're good.

That's clean. Same thing over here on the engine at the Port Blow these out foreign. Okay so I have here a uh, a gasket set that's going to come with our intake manifold gaskets and here let's grab one of the old ones and compare real quick and we can see a huge difference and the wear on this gasket versus the new one. So we already have an improvement in ceiling capability with the new gaskets.

we've also got I think those, what are those for I don't remember what those go to. We'll find out if they go to this engine. We've got some O-rings for injectors I Don't think we're gonna need those. got two valve cover gaskets we will need those and we also have this plate gasket right here.

it is for that Valley cover now. I'm not one to not put in Parts uh if we have them available. So let's go ahead and pull this plate out and throw that new gasket in there as well. All right.

so we're looking for a 13 millimeter which I have on the gun and one loud one more connector right here I Believe that's camshaft position sensor. Take that guy, set it aside and we can come in here. knock out these 13s with a quickness. That one wasn't even tight, neither was that.

What if this thing was leaking? Look at that. these are barely even here. That tells me that that gasket is compressed like a lot. Yeah, these are all loose gravity that was looted that was barely not loose.

that was loose. Okay I tell you. I'm surprised this thing was holding in oil. Hot hot hot.

We'll use a towel to help or not. so quick. Correction: Uh, this is not a camshaft position sensor. that is the connector for the fuel management solenoids down below right here.

see These Guys These are AFM solenoids and that's a connector for it. Error: We have another error. This gasket that came with my kit is not the V-long gasket. This is for the non-active fuel management intake.

So I had to go back and order this gasket and I thought about reusing it and I decided against it because this is uh, the solenoid pack for the active fuel management system and I can get just a perimeter gasket. But the issue is is the the passages for the oil to flow through the solenoids. Uh, also has the same gasket so I had to uh I had to order the whole gasket for it. It is on the way.

So having said that, let's go and disconnect and disassemble this uh Felon solenoid pack right here and then we can change out those gaskets while we're there. Okay here, let's pull this feed line apart. We've got a Torx 30 bit back. these screws out.

We're gonna pull the solenoids off of the uh the manifold plate here. Foreign like a lot. Here we go. All right.

another one. Bites the Dust I just made that one slip that wasn't cool. There we go that we came loose. Let's go back to the gun.

I'm not going to be able to break any of those loose with the gun. They're all coming out the ratchet here. That's how it's got to be. Come on, don't slip there.

we go a couple more. I think that's the last of them unless I missed one I missed this one over here. Let's get that guy loose that one. All right.

That should be all of the uh, the V-bomb bolts. Okay, we're all apart here. Let's get our Fasteners out. There's a lot of Fasteners in this little unit I Think we have them all.

That's uh, wiggle this guy up I think I Also need some mini pry bar action. Just don't break the thing right. just don't break it incorrect. I need to pull this component off and it looks like down in these holes there's some torx bits here and that's holding on this upper section of this solenoid pack I need to pull these guys off as well out, don't you love how we started to go after this oil pressure sender and then got completely diverted into doing something else.

But it's okay. that's why I buy the master kit when it comes to gaskets. so I can do this kind of thing. Let's pull this business off of here without uh, breaking it.

Got a little tab on the end that is hold me up ever so slightly pull that tab back I think we are disconnected. exception of the type of thread there we go. Okay, this unit is three-ish Set that aside. Now let's fry up this next little plate and that's going to bring our solenoids and the vlomb gasket with us.

You guys see that mirror gasket. The new one just showed up so I already have a replacement here. All right. this thing still is not coming apart.

and additionally, I was getting really tired. all this oil all over me. so I threw on some gloves. uh I think I need to pull these solenoids out in order to get this gasket separated.

That looks to be the case. You see, it's got a couple oil seals in there also. And if I'm not mistaken, my uh. my box with a new gasket here also has uh, oil.

O-rings for the individual solenoids. So it looks like this whole vlomb system is gonna get itself a rebuild. Keep popping these solenoids out of those little bores. Figure it all this business.

Okay, those are out. We have a plate and then that is our old gasket assembly so we can now toss this thing aside. We're not going to need it. We'll switch out with our new one just to keep things getting a little dirty.

Let's set the new one on the box here. Okey doke. So our solenoids have had the rubber gaskets replaced and I break cleaned them off and wiped them down. Let's go ahead and get these things set back up into the pores of our gasket here.

Press them in position. Wiggle them in. they're not wanting to wiggle. We need some lubricants.

The O-rings are, uh, not smashed like the old ones. Let's throw some RT not RTV dielectric on here. Get some dielectric on that O-ring to provide some lube. See if these guys are gonna fit in there.

twist and a push. There we go. Okay, they're in. that one's in more Lube applied to solenoid number two.

Give that thing a push and a wiggle and a turn. Get in there please. There we go, that one's pressed in. Good.

Okay, so I think I have that all figured out. The plates sandwiched together and we've got all the gaskets in place. The solenoids are all now seated with the capturing plates in position. Let's switch out this piece with the manifold piece here.

We need to clean this guy off, especially on the ceiling surfaces. Just make sure there's no dirt here. Give that a good little wipe there. we are.

Okay, that's good. I don't see any other missing gaskets or parts that I forgot to change out. Plus I don't have any extras. So I think we're on the right path here.

Let's go ahead and get this thing set up in position I think we've got it correct? We better have it correct or I'll be sad because I got it wrong I Feel like I'm doing something wrong I don't think so. but I feel like it I Guess we'll find out later, won't we? I know why I feel like I'm doing putting this together around because I took it apart in the wrong order. see if you recall. I Pulled out all these little perimeter bolts for these plates first and I didn't remove that little electronic communication Bridge here between the solenoids.

That is why I was confusing myself because that's supposed to go on last and because I took it off last instead of first like I should have I got myself bass backwards. hence the confusion in my head. You guys probably weren't confused because it all looked fairly seamless from your end. But for my end, I uh, I got lost and I was attempting to go back and look at Uh with the footage to see what I had done incorrectly.

But I think I figured it out. With the exception of two Fasteners that I do not have, there's one with that guy in right there. Good. Okay, let's get this plate here screwed down and tight.

Let's make sure all these Fasteners are threaded and straight and then we'll hit them with some final torque. here. we'll let the quarter inch gun decide just how much torque that's actually going to need. There we go.

Everybody's looking good. Yep, time to send it. You missed that one. Very good.

A couple more on this other side I could have stabbed my gasket. It's not okay. yeah I think that's everybody. yep and we are missing one.

Fastener where's that other one at? found it I dropped it on the floor. Okay, it's all good. Let us install connection device to connect all the solenoids to the connector. We basically just need to make sure that all these guys are lined up appropriately with the pins.

Slide it in, make the connection, then we'll Bolt the thing back down. All good, good, good, and we've got four torques. 15s dropping those holes there. These are not going to get full send treatment with regards to uh, their Torx spec one, two, three, where did I miss one that one.

Yeah. Foreign. Alrighty, now that I'm done with that side quest it ended up turning into like the the main feature here. Let's flip this guy over and we can get this uh, the sensor out of the body here Now I Understand this is a new sensor.

Understand we had a trouble code but I also understand unclick that guy that this is not a GM sensor so we don't know where it came from and I know it was working. but our Dtc's remained and my guy wanted to get rid of that. So we're uh, we're changing this out with another one, which is how it is and deep down in that hole, we're also going to find a screen that we talked about earlier. That screen's in pretty good shape so I'm gonna hang on to it in case my new sensor does not come with one.

A lot of times when you order like a GM or OE parts and there's two pieces to the service, they'll only sell you one and then they make you buy a second part number for the other one. So just in case my uh my GM sensor does not come with the uh, the appropriate filter. um, foreign. all right.

I Still do not have my new sensor and nor do I have the screen. but what I do have is a re-gasketed V-lum solenoid pack. So let's uh, let's get this thing bolted back uh in the top of our engine over here. Simple maneuver.

Let's bring this guy right straight back and actually you know what? Uh, let me talk a little bit about what these solenoids do see. This engine has a feature called AFM that's active fuel management and what it is able to do is cancel out four of the eight cylinders. For example, let's say you're headed down a hill and you're at idle and do not need uh, don't need V8 power. It can actually send oil pressure through these solenoids which comes through these ports here and what that will do is expand uh, one of the lifters or a set of the lifters.

We got a cylinder, cylinder cylinder and another cylinder. so that's four out of the eight. It'll expand those lifters and hold the valves. I Think it's open that it holds the valves.

uh, taking away all compression to that cylinder simultaneously. It will also turn off the fuel injector for those corresponding cylinders. So it basically turns a V8 engine into a 4 engine. When certain criteria are met, it's a fuel saving slash EPA measure.

And as the system progressed over the years and the failure rates climbed, they uh, they just kept doubling down on that system as if it was going to eventually work one day. This is an 07 model today is 2023 and they're still making this type of system with the prone expandable lifter failure mechanism problem. So after I did what 10, 10, 15, 16 years or whatever under development, the system still doesn't work. The irony is is once it fails, the repair of the system actually will cost more than the total amount of fuel that was saved because that system existed in the first place.

But hey, you know what do I know I'm not Uh, I'm not bound by the rules and regulations of our bureaucratic bodies that make these kinds of mandates and dictations. Just saying. I mean you know if they mandate certain equipment the Uh to be installed on a vehicle or on an engine, then I think that they should, uh, maybe take some responsibility for when it doesn't work because as far as I've noticed, it seems only the end user has to be responsible for these things. I mean the manufacturer is a responsible for them too once they're under warranty, but after that, you're on your own which is kind of not okay.

Regardless, got all the bolts in, tighten them down. it's the wrong size socket isn't it? Yeah, that's a 14. What was that? A flashlight scared the bejesus up and that'll probably conclude my rent today. Tight, tight, definitely tired than it was.

Very good vlomb installed. Let's get that connector way back there reconnected. That's an easy one to forget. The thing falls down, it's hard to see.

Yeah. I think we're good there. Well guys, it is. Uh, it's becoming later in the day and I still do not have the appropriate Parts Uh here to um to actually get this intake back on because I don't have my uh my switch.

Uh, they said they had it in stock and then we called them. they said it wasn't in stock so they had to drive far away to Tampa to go pick it up. So uh, same thing with the exhaust down there I don't have that piece either. So I unfortunately I wanted to run this through and make it a super long video.

but since I do not have components and it is the end of day, Shadows are long I'm getting tired. I'm gonna go ahead and uh, just close this video out right now since I I have no more work to do on it at this current juncture. But fear not, the next video that comes out will be the finalized part two of this particular DMC Sierra 5.3 We'll get all that stuff buttoned back up, We'll cut those converters off, check out the Carnage inside, uh, tomorrow morning, and then, uh, we will get the new one installed as soon as possible. So having said all that as always like to thank you guys for watching this video.

I Certainly hope you enjoyed this video. If You in fact did enjoyed this video. Please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below. Do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there! and most importantly, have yourself a fantastic day! See you guys later in the video in the Sierra into vlomb any converter into part One in your transmission.