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All right let's see. Keys, Keys Keys I need some Volkswagen keys Volkswagen Keys Here we go. Hi everybody, good day to you! Welcome back That over there is a 16 14 something like that. We'll check it in a minute.

Volkswagen Passat Uh, Real easy work. This time around we're gonna do uh, some brake work to resolve a high-speed vibration. Uh customer? States they went metal and metal Once Upon a Time in the rears. They pad slapped it and there's a vibration at slow speeds that they can feel in the pedal.

and there's another one at high speeds that they can kind of feel in the seat. Now this particular Volkswagen seems to have 125 738 miles on the odometer and according to our sticker, where's my event plate here 2015. All right right in the middle. I was wrong on both guesses.

Anyway, we're going to swing this into the shop. we're going to check out the brakes. Uh, push button starting as the engine. Oh I Heard that this thing was a little a little Wiggly You gotta kind of mess with it some.

Begin engine starting sequence now. I Can't there we go. We got it. Get this into the shop.

Um, as I was saying, if we don't need to replace Parts, we're not going to. If the pads are good and I can just kind of sand them down or recondition those, we're going to do that. We're trying to keep costs as low as possible, but we definitely need to get rid of the vibration while braking. So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video.

Openings: Yeah, I'm thinking right about there looks good. Yepper parking's the auto powering down I Should probably see uh if I can find another one of those switches too climbing out opening Z Hood I Don't know why we're pulling the hood just for a brake inspection, but you know I gotta do your due diligence. That's what it's about. See what we got in here? Four cylinder TSI How many liters of raw displacement do we have? 1.8 liters there? They are all right.

1.8 TSI four-cylinder Good engine. We're done here. Okay, we're setting the rack I've got the other three arms already in place. Let's go ahead and get this thing off the ground.

That one's good. That one's good. We're good over here. Black subscribe button.

Moving on up. Foreign. Now one of the particulars about these Volkswagens is that they have these little plastic covers over the lug nuts and folks don't like the covers or the little plastic things because they do that. and it's an extra like 20 steps because you've got to pull these guys off and then you can get access to your lug nuts.

It's not a huge deal, it's just part of a well working on a Volkswagen Now one of these might have a uh a Wheelock key hiding behind it. Let's find out you can tell because the lug nut will be round. Let's see what we get. Come here ready and survey says it's a negative on the uh wheel lock keys which is good.

Okie Dokes We've got the nut covers removed. That's not good. Pull the lug nuts out. See that.
All right? Let's see what we have here. We have like nine ten millimeter front pads. Look at that. These are really good pads.

All right. those are going to stay. We're not going to put pads on it like I said. I'm making an effort to, uh, reduce cost as much as possible.

These ones are great. See the friction material right there. That's a lot of material. So these are good pads.

How's the inboard? Inboards are looking good? Okay, let's check the rears. Yeah. I pulled the rest of the wheels off when you guys aren't looking. I do that and similar in the back.

eight ten millimeters. but again, there's that nasty vibration. So uh, I think we're just gonna do a rotor replacement. We're going to keep these original pads I'll pull them out and scuff them up with it with a Ziss wheel.

but uh, these things are gonna stay. so that's Gonna Save Us A good chunk of change. So let's go ahead and get started. We'll pull the caliper off, we'll pull this anti-rattle clip off, We've got a set screw and then we can get this rotor peeled off of here.

We'll go from there here. Let's switch sides. You guys come over here and we'll go ahead and turn this guy a little bit. It gives us access to all of our Hardware The caliper bolts are encapsulated.

Come here. We got to pull these little caps off and then we can go in with a Torx driver and pull the bolts out. Okay, just a Torx 45 extended I think that fits in there? That's pretty good. These actually may not be torque Fasteners they might just be hex Fasteners But fun fact: you can use Torx bit on Hex fasteners.

Some say you can't I've been doing it for years so we'll take these loose I Skipped a step and did not pull the anti-rattle clip. We'll do that in a second. Failing to adhere to order of operations. it's never good.

so these guys are really easy to get out of. there. We just pull them out and set that aside that's going to be reused. We have to put this back.

Not very good to forget. Whoa. Camera gravity. You guys are like slowly slouching.

So I just need to reach in and push the the bolts out a little bit. Got a little pocket screwdriver for that. The tip is hanging up and they don't want to release. There we go.

That one moved now and then our caliper comes free. Okay, set that aside on top of the rotor. pull our pad. Yeah! I'm just going to hit this with a little sanding wheel real quick.

We'll scuff it up and uh, just kind of prepare the surface to uh to remate with the new rotor. Because we are, we're gonna pull the rotors Sue pull the other pad out, pulls his wheel does later and I think we're needing was that a 21? 22 for the caliper bolts, caliper bracket bolts? Yeah. 21. two 21s on tickets? Nice.

And then we pull our set screw out of the front of the rotor and this rotor will come free I Believe that is a Torx 30. my assumption was correct. You win some, you lose some now. just put one of the studs back in real quick and then I can't get this rotor to come free peasy.
That's the non-violent solution. This is to prevent the rotor from falling off and that shipping my floor or hitting me in the foot okie doke. So taking a look at our Hub here, there's a little bit of surface rust on it. nothing major, but uh, we're gonna go ahead and clean that off.

Anyway, got a little rotary tool here with a polishing wheel. This one will lightly go over this surface and polish off all that oxidation. Loud noise is sorry we're gonna tell you. Nice, shiny, Almost.

It's almost nice and shiny. Maximum shiny. There we go. Okay, new rotor coming in.

Not a uh, not a Volkswagen rotor. It's a Car Quest rotor. Uh, not sponsored. That's just what I have.

They weren't the best, they weren't the worst. Good mid-range economical component. No, that's the one we're using. The reason I'm spraying this off is because there is a coating of oil on these to prevent rusting while in storage and uh, we want to get that off of there.

Come here a little torch bit see how these are dual bolt bolt pattern I can make one part that does uh that fits more than one car. Okay now like I mentioned, we are gonna reuse these front pads. but I do need to Scuff the surface up. So I will actually use the same ziz wheel tool to uh to take a little bit of this surface off of here so it can re-break in with a fresh new Surface You can see how this one's kind of glazed and there's some grooves worn into it.

We want to take all that down and just let it start over again. You know, Truth be told, it's actually been a long time since I've done something like this. This method also works if you're trying to iron out some random squeaky noises. What can happen is you can get some uneven wear or metal can be embedded in this or some of these have actual like flakes of metal inside of them and those flakes tend to or can be larger than what's supposed to be there so they don't flake and wear away.

And so uh, on occasion your pads can get themselves into a wear condition where they make a bunch of noise and taking, uh, taking the sander to the surface of that, and then redoing that surface can actually make that noise go away. Okay, let's get this thing polished. nothing crazy. Put a little bit of a chamfer on the edge.

That's another noise mitigation. So yeah, we took away the glove. There we go. and I'll do the same thing with the outboard pad.

Woohoo! Okey-dokes Now the bracket can go back together and we can re-hang these pads. Put that back over there. Hang on guys. Come on back.

there you are. So let's re-hang this bracket and the pads and then this corner will be good to go. Now, we can't get these particular pads uh, in the wrong position because this one has this little clip that goes into the Piston up on the caliper so we can't uh, can't get these in the wrong position. They just they go the way that they go gravity and that is to the ground.
So anyway, let's set that pad up right there. There we go. it's gonna hang out right there. and uh, let's batch the one off the floor.

Let's try this again. We'll just slide that in, push it down, and then we can re-hang the caliper on its bracket right here. Just wiggle that in foreign. Okay, back to our Torx 45 .

Kick Gravity flashlight I Caught that one midair. It was great. We've got the two caps that prevent water from soaking onto those pins. We'll slide those guys back on.

Then we'll come back out and get our anti-rattle clip reinstalled. Kind of easy. Kind of not. These can be a challenge.

What we're going to do is put the pin in the calipers first and then pull it back. It's not in yet. See that right there since everything's a hammer. Tap it right in.

Oh yeah, good to go. That's one corner complete. Let's go ahead and move around. I'll do the rear next.

I Want to check out those rear rotors? because uh, like we mentioned earlier, our fellas said that, uh, they had gone metal to metal at one point. So let's get this thing disassembled and we'll check the pads on the I Think it's the inboard that was the issue. Okie dokes. So 14 millimeters? Uh, that's the wrong millimeters.

Let's try again with a 13.. Yeah, all right, let's try 13. I Think 13 is going to be the winner. Yep, on clicks, it's tight.

Ah, look here. you see how that uh inside of the bolt or the bolt is turning the uh, the stud there I need to grab a hold of that with some pliers. Sometimes you can fit a wrench in there, but there's usually like a lip and it keeps that wrench from slipping onto the hex. Unless you have really, really thin wrenches.

Yep, okay, we just need to hold on to uh, hold on to that for a second. I Should probably go in there with a electric ratchet. Speed things up a bit and never mind, it's not gonna fit on the bottom one. Click that.

Okay Calipers coming free. This is an actuated caliper. What that means is that the hydraulic service brake system and the cable operated parking brake system is integrated into one unit. So when you pull the parking brake, it's actually going to squeeze on the caliper via the cable and not rely on hydraulic pressure.

Now we can see here. these pads are pretty thick. I'm gonna be looking for uh, deep grooves worn into them because they said these went uh, metal on metal once and they just did a like a pad slap on it and did not do anything about the rotors I'm out of there screwdriver fry Driver: screwy pry Driver: hmm. brake pad Gravity: No worries.

So yeah, these actually look pretty good too. I think I'm just gonna scuff these up as well and reuse these pads. So yeah, we're going to save a little bit of money on this job. All right.
So we're going down under real quick and what we can see right here. There's one of the bolts for the caliper bracket and there's the other one and if you look real close you'll see that those are triple square. Those are uh European proprietary type looking designs meaning normal tooling does not. Uh, it's not gonna fit.

so we're gonna bust out the set of triple square sockets. Yeah, is that the right one? So far, so good and we've got to go in there with a ratchet and a swivel to, uh, get these bolts out of here. It's not really getting a good bite. I Don't like that if I slip this and round it off, we're uh, we're in major trouble.

So I'm exercising caution here. Gearwrench Flexi head ratchet coming in with the universal 3 8 and an extension that should give me space and leverage here to break this loose go together. and I'm just gonna setting this up so I can get a good pull on it on click one tight. Now it's flipping tight right there.

It's not gonna work all right. We're gonna try a more direct approach socket straight to ratchet. then I can get a good pull. It was the Hulk that put this together all right.

There's the bottom one unclicked. Wow. these guys are in there. Yeah, you're never going to get that off without the the right tool.

Not gonna happen. Thank you. The bolt that never ends. Look at that thing.

a lot of Bolt Okay, that's both caliper bracket bolts. Let's get out of here and get that bracket out and then we will, uh, we'll pull that rotor off There we go. Set this over here. for now.

Close these slide pins looking pretty good. Same thing Torx 30. yeah, not beer. 30.

not yet. Pull that guy out. Foreign. There we go.

Oh nice and shiny. Look at that beautiful, okay new rotor coming in again, backwards. Clean this up. Get the oil off of it.

There we go. Now we can flippy flop it, index it indexing meaning to reference the uh, the little set screw right there. We'll get this thing screwed in. click a little bit more shiny.

Very nice. Okay, let's pull the slide pins real quick. We'll give them a wipe down and re-lubricate them. Got my purple Lube these days.

Oh that one's It's kind of tight, but yeah, it's nasty. super thick grease in there. There we go, or a lack thereof. much more.

better look at that. Okay, let's get this thing bolted back in and then we'll recondition uh, those rear pads and that'll be good for this one side. Then we can move over. hit that other side.

Okay, now I think I'm doing this more by feel than anything because I can't really see where these uh, caliper bolts are supposed to go through. It's really deep. Uh, hang on. pardon my Noggin trying to see what I'm doing here? Okay, that's one bolt in.

started by hand. Here's our second one. That one goes. It's going in the bottom right there.
Very nice. Okay, back down below. let's run those guys down and put some torque on them and then we'll come back up and hang the pads changing tools going back to the manual ratchet and I'll use this guy to put final torque on these I swear I could feel that bolt stretch. Makes me wonder if these are, uh, like a torque to yield one-time use only kind of thing? I don't think they are.

but I know as tight as they are, there is some stretch that's accounted for because it's Chairman Engineering. Yeah, so just like the fronts, I'm gonna scuff up these pads and we're gonna chamfer all the edges and corners. foreign after, and same thing on the before. Beautiful.

So we've got witness marks. That's where the uh, the Piston is riding on these Pistons or the Pistons on the Piston. That's where the Piston is riding on the pad. Say that five times fast and we've got witness marks over here.

That's where the fingers on the edge of the caliper are also contacting the pad. So we know that this is the outboard. so we'll slide that guy back into his home in there. Don't fight me or I'll hammer you.

Yeah, you're asking for it, aren't you? Get in there? Yeah. Real easy and same thing on the inboard pad. begin going in now. I can't see I'm gonna go to the other side I Can't feel it I Have to see it.

There we go. no problem. Foreign squeeze. These rotors are thicker than the others, but they'll fit So and then our bolts flashlight down.

Please line up there we go see I Just had to say please and it did okay. Caliper Bolt numeral dose. Let's get that guy started. Come on Caliper Line up.

The reason this is so tight is we probably took up a couple thousandths of an inch of space uh by adding a thicker rotor. and the caliper did not compress because being an actuated caliper, you've got to rotate them while pressing them back in. Can still fit though. So we're good.

Oh, we're doing that spinny stud thing again. No worries, stick some pliers on there to kind of hang on to it and we can bring it up to torque. There we go. All right.

Two is done halfway there. Let's move over to the other side. Okay, um I'm back. You guys didn't notice.

Uh I was on the phone for like 45 minutes. So now I'm kind of trying to Crunch to get this. uh, let's get this thing done. It's going the wrong way.

so let us unclick. Oh good that was loose. Let's see if this one's gonna be equally as compliant. Oh yep, we're gonna Buzz through this one the same way as we did the uh, the left, rear pull the caliper, pull the pads, slap the rotor on there, make it nice and shiny.

Lube the pins and move on. Come on out caliper. Thank you. You can just sit right up over nowhere.

How about down there? Yeah, we'll just shove it in there or not go away. see how these pads look? Here's what. Uh, here's the one that went metal to metal. See that deep deep grooves worn in this one.
So this is the one that went metal to metal and it was pad slapped. So yeah, let's let me pull this rotor off of here. Okay Torx 30. I'm gonna click our set screw and we're going back down below with the big triple square one more time.

Again, we're looking up from Uh from under the car. This is the back side of uh of the brake assembly. We've got the control arm right here. Let's unclick these guys.

Yep, come on. Is that a flashlight? Sure was. Imagine that flashlight's falling down everywhere. it's raining Lumens? Yeah.

I mean okay, that one's loose. Let's get this bottom one loose. All right. Bottom one.

next. Round two I Slipped out, didn't it? Oh no, yeah, this is what we did not want to do. Um okay s it wasn't in all the way. I I Didn't notice.

Uh Hammer Hammer Hammer Hammer We have to get it in all the way. That was so bad what just happened. Um, um. up a creek now guys.

you really can't get any force on That Fastener to drive it in? I'll put an extension on it to hammer at home. That's in all the way. Uh, will I be able to achieve Redemption Here we go. Yeah, tight.

got it? That could have been really bad. Like bad enough to cut the thing apart foreign. have to replace the bolt which should not be cool. All right.

Caliper bracket is removed I'll go grease this real quick and then uh. we'll get that rotor changed out. Okay, let's get out of here and get this rotor removed real easy. like you just pull it off.

Oh yeah. Oh yeah yeah. look at that. See all those grooves worn into this? This is where when the previous set of pads went metal to metal.

the backing plate of the pad was grinding into the rotor and there's a bunch of Peaks and valleys here. Uh, not really a good surface. uh for for a friction material. All right.

road chor coming in, oil leaving rotor flips and flip again. Uh. indexed set screw. Trying to pick up the pace at the end of the day, the last of the last of the tasks pick again, more shiny and now all right.

let's get this. uh. slide pin lubricated real quick. Get these things out of here.

Ooh stuck. See that it's not sliding like it rotates, but it will not slide. Oh, that's in there. This one comes out kind of Oh, yeah.

Look at that. That's nasty. The the grease has broken down. That's probably why the right rear on that car went metal to metal is if you've got stuck slide pins.

then after that caliper is done compressing on the pads in the rotor, you've got to release it and the pins are hanging up. which is not letting the things move around that's not floating so it's keeping a little bit of pressure on that brake pad. That's probably what took out the last pads were. was these slide pins right here? Interesting I mean I Speculate I Can't prove it.
but when you've got a brake pad that's warm to nothing and then another one that's in good shape, you need to take a look at the pins, see if this is gonna, well, that's bad. Yeah, this is all full of nasty in here. Look at that. Yeah, that's that's Grease Okay, see if we can't get this other one to come out, we'll twist and pull at the same time.

No? Nope. I Don't have the strength in my flanges, but my pliers do. Come on you. Oh that's crazy.

Look at that. It's stock hitting me right now. Danger Foreign. Didn't see this coming on this job.

I Hope this thing was slide hammer and let's keep working it. Look at that whoo. That was bad. Okay I'm gonna need to clean some of this nasty out of here because even if I put grease on these slide pins, it's a it's not gonna work.

Why won't you spray? TV Blaster Dude, this is not my day. Everything's malfunctioning or I'm malfunctioning. Wait I've got a I got a nylon bristly brush here on a drill I'll run this thing in a couple times. That's good.

Camera Gravity Nasty. Okay, we're uh, we're getting somewhere I think let's see if these things are gonna slide in or not. I think I cleaned out enough of the crust. Let's see that one's good.

that one's good. All right, let's get a little bit more. uh, more grease in there. Okay, put on our little dust boots here with one.

Nasty. It's number two. Nice, Sweet. Good to go.

Very messy, but the bracket's been repaired. it's going to function as designed. Let's go ahead and get this thing pulled back together. Side quest complete.

Okie Dokes bracket coming back in and the calipers in the way hold that over there stay all right top. Bolt's becoming threaded. That's good. Got the bottom one right here.

It did survive the the slipping event that was not cool I knew better I knew better so much I even said don't do that Ray And then I I did it. Very embarrassing. No worries I'll get over it. Go ahead and run these down all right.

A couple pulls with the extra long ratchet. We'll get some torque on those and we're done down below. Oh ratchet's sticking man. I Can't even nothing's working today? Look at that.

my ratchets. It was getting hung up I wonder if I bent the pawl inside or something? I Do put this ratchet through a lot of work. a little forward pick. that's one tight and numerous tight.

All right. come out now seeing as how these uh, these rear pads went metal to metal. I'm gonna have to sand the other one a little bit more aggressively than uh, than the smooth one. And I hope the camera picks it up, but you can see here all the grooves worn into this one and this one is still relatively smooth.

We need to polish all these grooves out of here. so if we're gonna be sketchy, it's got to be full on sketchmatic here. Come on. Yeah.

Beautiful. That actually worked a lot better than uh than I thought. So we got our new one and that's the old surface there. but I'm still gonna ziz wheel these um with the pneumatic tools that way they both have the same surface finish.
Plus I need to chamfer some of these edges here. Let's finish up and make these uniforms. Good to go, All right. Come here.

Backing plate. We need you compressor powered down All right. Let's get these guys back in their homes. You stay right there and same thing on this inboard.

Nope. I Missed. Nope. I missed.

Let's see. still can't see. Hang on here. Bear with me fellas.

I'm it's my first day. I Don't work on Volkswagens there. Okay, let me out of here. Let's get this caliper refitted and then we will be 75 complete.

You're gonna go in I Miss Okay, two caliper bolts in the home stretch now with one click. Good to go. One more wheel and we're out of here and back to the front. All right.

Three down, one to go. We're back up at the right front and this is about to come full circle. Yeah, let's get into our little, uh, our little bolts here. we'll pull the Caps off because they are encapsulated two caps.

back to our Torx 45 unclick. There we go. Come out please. Nope.

they're still hanging on. Push that out a little bit with the screwdriver here. See, as these bolts pass through their rubber seals, the rubber flexes outwards and then when you're done, uh, unthreading them, the rubber tries to push the Fastener back into the hole and it makes it a little harder to line up. we're gonna to remove to get the caliper off so you have to kind of push the bolts back out a little farther and then you can get the unit to come out up and flip.

There's one pad. really good shape, pad number two fairly good shape I Don't know what that is. some kind of contaminant, but we'll sand that out of there. okay.

two caliper bracket bolts. Let's wrap these out. foreign. ER Like I said, come here.

Rotor nice. Okay A Little bit of ziz wheel action over here on the Hub face. It's in really good shape, but we cleaned up the other side so we're gonna clean up this side too. Gravity nice.

and of course I Shan't forget the shiny okay, new rotor coming in. Hang it, spray it, spray it some more. Flip it, spin it, hang it, hang it longer. Don't go anywhere.

Bolt it. Foreign. nice. Okie Dokes Let's toss the wheels on this thing and uh, take it for a test drive.

see if it vibrates, see if it makes noises, evaluate the brakes one more time, and then I think we're good to go. Hey, look at that. it's the next day. Sun's just shining.

Surprise surprise I Can't get the Volkswagen out because this is. this is not a service drive. it's a parking space. Look what you? I got my sign up.

yeah I know, but I was gonna back. How do I take this car out there with this car in here? I'll Ram it. Yeah. Anyway, so let me throw the wheels back on this thing.
We're gonna go and uh, finalize the test drive. We ended up not replacing the rotors. You guys remember this because you were just here but I don't remember because I took the night off and went home and went to bed. Rotor's good here that's bolted on that does not go to this.

Volkswagen that's the stainless fastener that's bolted on. Cliffs are on. We need more shiny on this wheel because there's fingerprints. Yeah that goodbye dude.

and how's that right front looking? We're good here. Okay, let me toss these wheels back out. We're gonna go hit the road. All right.

let's hop in this bad boy and hit the road. Where's my keys? Oh no key stockings. The engine push button. Gotta wiggle it.

Some foot on the brake. Come on button. Got it. Like once you got the the muscle memory figured out for the button, it's easy.

I Think all right brakes pumped up. Let's go ahead and back her out. We'll hit the road, we'll do some stops, We'll break these pads into the new rotors. and more importantly, we're going to be able to stop without vibrations everywhere.

Alrighty, so what we're gonna do here since we did kind of recondition those older pads and they did get sanded down is we're going to burnish these things and get them to break in a little bit and then I'm gonna up the game some and we're going to do a couple real high speed hard stops. We want to wear those pads into these rotors, but we don't want to start that aggressively immediately because we need to get, uh, we need to complete the burnishing process. And basically what burnishing is is you're lightly applying brakes and the the brake pads are going to transfer some of that material into the valley. See, there's microscopic Peaks and valleys on the flat surface of the rotor and we want to fill those little valleys with some brake material from the pads that way.

it's a nice smooth, even surface and the two units can work together to produce friction and grip and ultimately stop the car. So we're going to do a series of light breaks to burnish the pads in or light Breaking to burst the pads in once they're burnished in and broken in. We're going to go out on the bigger Road and we're going to do some like 65 or 70 mile per hour stops or aggressive slowdowns. The idea being is we want to create some wear because naturally I couldn't have achieved a flat surface when I sanded those pads with the belt sander or with the little ziz wheel thing.

So we want to make sure that the high spots on those pads are worn down. That way the pads can make full contact with the rotors. Sure look, guy wants to pass me and I'm already speeding it. Oh look and we're stopping up here I'm gonna take all day because you are behind me.

Yeah I'm not the not the person of to follow so closely. Very Petty Okay, lightly slowing down light the brake pedal pressure avoiding coming to a complete stop. Rolling through a yellow light moving on all right. We've gone through four or five, uh, very light duty stops.
Let's pick up some speed here. We've got a nice clearing on the big road. we're gonna get some speed and do a couple heavy heavy braking events and uh, and that's where we're gonna really verify that there is no vibration. So our speed limit here in Florida is 85 miles per hour.

so we'll work into two. We're gonna. We're gonna get up to about 65 70 right here and we're gonna get on this pedal a little bit. I'm not gonna stand on it, lock it up, but we are going to really get into these breaks.

Yeah oh yeah, it felt pretty good. I Think we can squeeze one more in before the red light. No traffic, full speed, any speed detection devices? Nope. I'm not speeding yet.

We're good. breaking braking, braking, no vibration. This thing feels pretty good I like it. Calling it success, we have lost the vibration.

got excellent stopping power. We're good to go. Headed back to the shop calling this one good finishing it up I Have to change the oil but other than that we're good to go here. So as always thank you guys for watching this video.

Hope you enjoyed this video. Uh if you did enjoy this video or if you have any questions, comments, concerns, you can start by tapping that like button and then entering your questions, comments or concerns. uh in the comment section down below. Breaking so again and as always thank you guys for watching and most importantly do not forget to have yourselves great day! See you guys later into Volkswagen Warm.


97 thoughts on “Brake job with a belt sander? 2015 vw jetta”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Caleb Spaeth says:

    yeah… stretching bolts … ment to torque them to crazy values when new ….

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars silicon212 says:

    Some Toyota engines also use triple square bolts for the cylinder head!

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Kathryn McDuffie says:

    Ray, I want to thank you for helping me prepare & replace my calipers & the break pads. Thank you

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Cosmos Videos says:

    Wow that back one has never come off since factory or they put it on real tight.

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dj Groover says:

    SHINY!

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dj Groover says:

    Like because you use spray! Good joob!

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Fred Harvey says:

    My understanding is that typically if there's pulsing when braking, the rotors are warped or cracked.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars John McKechnie says:

    Wow ! BRAKE CLEANER ON BRAKES. I scuff the pads on concrete. Great job Ray.

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David E.S. says:

    My new ish vehicle has a push to start. Could you convert it to a key start? Could you look back to the last key start for this company. Buy the complete setup and install that in place. Is there a aftermarket physicals key start system in a box?

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Folke Johansson says:

    As someone who works on VW and live in rust land. Those rear bolts are a pain. I think they are aluminium since they don't rust. Just become very stuck. I always hammer the socket then use 1/2" impact.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars GrayRaceCat says:

    I used to do something similar when scuffing pads, a couple of swipes on a strip of wet/dry sandpaper at the bottom of my aqueous parts washer tray (pump running). Keeps the dust at bay. Rinse with brake cleaner, done.

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MrTonyPiscatelle says:

    Mr Butter fingers today eh . Get your dip stick Jimmy

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jason Michaels says:

    euro trash made in mexico overly complicated sentra…thx for the videoZ!

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Sunset Originals says:

    If I had to replace one of those bolts, I’d use “real” bolts that take “normal” sockets. 😂

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Stevo says:

    thank you Ray..an excellent upload,those pads looked brand new,,👍👌

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mick D says:

    Hey Ray, loved watching, reminds me of ME … exept, BEFORE you pull the claliper away, consider rocking it to push the piston back
    as far as you need it to (much more if new pads are to be fitted) , … just sayin' it might make your life a tad easier – it does for me 🙂

    Your attention to detail is great 😛

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Colin ofay says:

    Did not know this

    I am always told, rotor and pads need replacing at the exact same time

    Now I feel scammed

    I also am told I need to replace both front or both back at rhe same time (so 2 at the same time)
    Even if problem only is with one

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars NerdKrew says:

    Clothes hanger gets the lug caps off easy

  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars My Stuf says:

    TLDR

  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars slayer 7 says:

    As a warning, you should be careful resurfacing brake material. Aftermarket products from mexico and china can still contain asbestos. Everyone thinks it was banned decades ago but this isnt true. Be safe.

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Tom Harger says:

    You need to adjust the tracking on you belt sander. The belt was only half on the track.

  22. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars The Flat Rock says:

    Need new dust boots on that one calliper bracket because they let water into the slide pins 😮

  23. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mitch Fleming says:

    I've never seen anyone use a head surfacer to clean up brake pads…

  24. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Danathema says:

    How expensive are pads in the US? I swapped brembo pads on my w221 S Class and they cost £35 for rear and £40 for front. Seems like the customer saved a similar amount and just paid it in labour instead?

  25. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars idontneedaname85 says:

    Thats a nice car for the "do it as cheap as possible" treatment.

  26. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Anonymous Wrex says:

    i worked on euro cars for nearly 10 years, and every time i tried using my 1/4 inch impact on the rotor set screws id snap a torx…. i always had to use a friggin impact driver and hammer instead. win some, lose some indeed lmao.

  27. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jim Schaefers says:

    Just a gripe because this is an automotive channel. I just purchased a used Subaru Forester. I wanted to put new brakes on because I trust my own work or don't trust others. Pads had 7-8mm left, so they were done pretty recently. Slide pin on the right was completely seized, like replace bracket seized. Then, caliper on left was seized. I have to same style piston compression tool Ray has, albeit the cheap one. It failed catastrophically. So a new caliper had to be installed as well. Beware of used car dealers that just like to turn em and burn em.

  28. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars B.E.Williams says:

    Ray as long as you and wife unit keep posting videos 30sec to 6.5 hrs I will keep watching God bless and have a beautiful day

  29. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Stephen King says:

    Hi Ray, I have to say that chamfering the leading edge of a pad was frowned upon in my training – the chamfer would act like a guide for road dust etc to fit between the rotor and pad, and a square edge was better at clearing contaminants off the rotor when pressure was applied.

  30. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars zepp3lin says:

    I would stay away from Euro cars due to the engine design direct injection, as it will cause very dirty intake valves.

  31. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mike Combs says:

    I have a 2013 TDI which is probably the same. It has a wear sensor in one of the front brake pads, the driver side if I remember correctly. These cars go through brake pads very slowly. If you are working on a V-Dub get yourself a set of XZN (triple square) sockets and one or two wheel alignment pins, M14x1.5 in this application.

  32. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mike Combs says:

    "You have to wiggle it". Damn fine german engineering.

  33. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars M. G. says:

    To prevent slip out on recessed fasteners a dab of valve grinding paste on the driver will really enhance the grip, carbide in the paste digs in to the driver and the fastener and will seldom slip out, be sure to clean off thoroughly afterwards, or it will seriously damage moving parts

  34. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ray Ives says:

    Brake pads nice UNshiny.

  35. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Sel Narcis says:

    You're VW videos ar the best !

  36. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Darryl G says:

    There is a tool to turn those pistons back as they don’t just push back into the rear calipers……for all the volks folks watching this

  37. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Terry Roth says:

    Well done thoughtful repair 👨‍🔧

  38. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Matt P. says:

    My brother in law is a horrible tailgater. He rides everybody’s butt that he drives behind. He bought one of those fancy Subarus with the camera system in it and it hits the brakes when it senses that he’s too close to the back of another car. 😂 He’s been trying to figure out a way to disable it. 😂

  39. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Michael Robbins says:

    Dude…. This expanding on shop consumables line item.. when you get a $27.00 line item for shop consumables.. it's blue towels. N brake clean

  40. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Hugh Jass says:

    I find when it comes to special tools I don't really mind buying them very much for working on my own stuff. Just buying that special tool is so much cheaper than the price of having somebody else do the work.