Check Engine Light DISABLED! Codes hidden from Driver! 2003 Ford Mustang GT 4.6 https://youtu.be/2FkL8Mqsn8E
Engine Accessory Overhaul! Running Rich-SOLVED! 2003 Ford Mustang GT 4.6 https://youtu.be/Ul1uyExVNXk
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Hello everybody, Good day to you! Welcome back! Glad you guys are here! I Know I'm super glad to be here we are returning to I Think this is the part three, probably the finalized part of this 2003 Ford Mustang Four Six GT Now the observant amongst you uh, will recall that this Mustang was over here on this rack prior, but uh, we had to move it and empty the shop out over the weekend because we had a bunch of equipment in here. so I could, uh, tidy up a few things and uh, we had to get the cars out. So now it is back in the shop. it's in the center stall because that's easier to set up on the rack and we're going to continue with our final part.

This segment, uh, will consist of the ball joint replacement. As you can see, those ball joint boots are torn away and they're gone and the actual joint is full of crud and dirt and nasty stuff and it's only a matter of time before those start to wear loose. So while we're in here doing this front end refresh, we're gonna go ahead and replace those ball joints as well. Both sides are in similar conditions, so let's go ahead and get started.

I Think what we need to do here is pull the sway bar links off because I'm going to replace those as well and uh, we're gonna put a pole Jack under this control arm, take the weight down after we disconnect the big nut right here, break that ball joint loose and then we can press the new one in after we press the old one out. So stay tuned because this is gonna be a very good video opening. Z Hood There was a great Rudder All right, let's get the cart rolled on over. I Have here in my possession two sway bar end links, two lower ball joints, and the ball joint press kit.

All right. So here's how we're gonna have to do this: in order to get to that big nut. You can see we can't get a socket on it, so we need to take the spindle assembly loose from this shock absorber that's going to be with this bolt here and this bolt here. and then we can kind of lean the assembly back some and gain access to that ball joint study.

I'm going to try to do this without removing actually. you know what? No, I'm not I'm not going to do that. It's going to be awkward and silly. I'm just going to go ahead and disconnect the steel speed sensor and then I will pull off our brake, caliper and bracket right here and then just hang that thing up off to the side.

I was originally thinking I can just kind of leave it all attached to the spindle and hang it off to the side, but that's going to be risky and I'm just not going to do that. We're just going to take it all apart I Don't know I just kind of Don't feel like trying to take a risky shortcut. It's early in the week something goes sideways. It's just gonna wreck my whole week.

So we're just gonna do this one by the book. No shortcuts today. Wiggle that thing out. That's our wheel speed sensor right there.

Okay, that's a 24 nut that holds that little bracket on. So let's spin that guy off. Stubby three eighths. Okay, we can stick this just over.
We'll put it right there. For now, there we go. Okay So we've got clear access to the 24 mil nuts that hold on to spindle and the strut. so let's take those guys loose after we get the 15s out that hold the brake caliper bracket on.

There's one right there and one right down there. All right, let's go ahead and I'll probably just try to break these things Loose by hand. Sure, they're very, very tight Keys Bro that was coming free. There we go.

another up top once they're broken loose I Could Buzz them out with the little impact. Come here. Not a lot of space on these bolts here. Come here you there we go.

Turn all right. wobbly bit, extended 15 millimeter. see if I got this guy. loosen up up here.

Sure did. Came right out good and I dropped my Bolt I'll take this whole caliper and bracket. we're gonna lift that up and away and then I'm gonna hang it I Put a little hanger up here just to secure that caliper. Is that right there? That should be fine.

Just like that now. I'll pull the rotor. let's take that thing aside and then you can pull the big bolts out for the knuckle. All right, Big 24 Wobbly bit.

Let's get the nuts. Oh, it's loose. Come here next. All right.

We need a wrench on the back side to hold the bolt and I grabbed the wrong one I had assumed this sent. the nuts were 24. The bolt would be a 24 and it's not. Get that next one out Hammer Time There we go.

Spin this guy back around. We can pull out the bolts. Come here. Bolt We can pry out the bolts.

We can hammer out the bolts I Know I Know we'll ask them nicely by rotation. There we go. Oh yeah, yeah, I forgot I Got spring pressure on my control arm. Silly rabbit, come out all right now.

we're good. Let's get to this uh nut on our ball joint here. It should spin right out. Then we can get the press on it, the puller ready.

You gotta pull the knuckle off the ball joint. Then we gotta press the ball joint out of the control arm. All right polar coming in. What this thing's gonna do is pull on the spindle and push down on the stud as we tighten it and it should break this thing free.

All right, let's try it with the three eighths. I'm gonna go ahead and send it and see what she does. Oh that was super easy. Look at that.

It came right out. Oh I had all that build up for nothing. Well I guess that's better than the Press flying apart. and for the puller flying apart and making a bunch of noise scaring everybody.

there we go. that's our spindle. This is all going to be reused. and there is our nasty cross-o-matic ball joint.

Look at that. it's full of just grossness. Yeah, that doesn't uh, doesn't work out too well in the long term. Okay, let's set up our big press and we'll press this thing out so we can press the new one.

in. All right, we'll see. Since the boot on this thing is gone, I'm just gonna put the Press right on top of that because that's right here. that's the body of the ball joint.
So I'm just gonna press straight off of that at first. I've got one adapter here which is uh, going to fit in the bottom of the ball joint so as it presses out, it can slide down and then this piece is so the screwdriver on the clamp can press through because this one has a hole in it. So I have to sandwich these together, tighten it down, and then begin the pressing operation. Get this set up here and we'll hit it with the impact.

Screw it in right about. we're almost there. Want to make sure the top is centered so it doesn't try to press the thing sideways? There we go. that looks good.

All right. impact coming in. Let's go ahead and send it. thank you and I think we're out of there.

If not, I'll bash it with a hammer if it's loose. Linear impacts coming in. super easy. All right.

let's give this uh, surface here a good wipe down. We don't want any dirt and nasty inside of that uh, that hole right there where the ball joint is supposed to be pressed in. otherwise it might not press in. That would not be okay.

So here's our replacement unit. We're going to slide that up and in and I'm going to take the hammer and drive it up some just to get it started. I'll use the press to finish it off. There we go: Extra cone coming in to give the press something to press off of and it's got another hole in it as a to provide a relief for the stud and to avoid stressing gravity to avoid pressing on this section of the ball joint with the Press I'm going to use this other little cone here just so I Press on the perimeter where it's strong, not in the Middle where it's weak.

is that right there? We don't want to damage the new stuff, so we're going to hang hang The Big C Clamp right here and then create some space for our adapter. Slide that guy in, get it centered, keep it centered, keep it centered again. There we go. that's looking good I think mostly I Need to adjust the top cone some it's off center.

There we go. Coming in from down below. Let's get the gun on there and let it ride here. She comes caption got her.

Woohoo! All right, that's one. it's in, it's pressed. Good to go except a little nap. you're stuck on there.

not anymore. All right. steering, knuckle coming in. Slide that down over our ball joint.

Get the nut on it. Let's get the nut tight Big. Now we can get the strut back on the knuckle, then the tie rod, and the brakes. Okay, let's cut this guy away and we'll spin her back around and let's see about lining up these bottom bolts here.

But get up there strut. I Don't want you falling down. Let's get these guys lined up right there. and then the Bolt's gonna come through the back side here.

Wiggle that guy in. We'll use the threads to assist. There we go. Then bolt number two.
let's see how slick I think I am. Give that a push. Yeah. send that one through.

Beautimous. Let's get our bracket on there. No, no, no, we have a we have to put the nuts on one nut forgot. Forgot about That foreign all right second.

Big Knot Coming in, grab that guy on right there wrench coming in the back side to hold the bolt and then we'll thread her down and make it tight bracket right there. back on that bracket and one more nut. A couple more forward clicks plug in our wheel speed sensor right there and of course it has its bolt that's going to thread in and tighten down with a Torx eight or reverse. Torx it's the E-torx E8 Quick.

All right, that one's in. Let's get the rotor hung and then the caliper can go back on and this side's good to go. Hang on I Got to clean some of this nasty off of here. The blowback would be incredible if I left that there freeze.

it's like it's full of crusted dried up Grease it's not even Rush there. That's more better. All right. rotor.

There we go and now we may hang up our brake caliper. Let's move on over. here we go. I'll turn that guy some that way and we will unhang the caliper, slide it right back over our rotor and get on there.

There we go. Two bolts of the 15 millimeter variety. see what I'm seeing here? Get those lined up. that one's threading in.

No, it's not I Missed there it is. Got it? I Had to put my eyeballs on it I Cannot see without my eyes thank you Captain Obvious Where's the hole? There it is. Let's get that one on. dude.

one coming in, top one okay and the bottom one I lost it. can't see it good. A little bit of increased torque on these guys because I know I didn't get that up to spec with the little gun pickage. that's the bottom one and the top one.

All right. Oh, you guys are all over the place all right. Got it full of bolts for the caliper, bracket are torqued and tight. all right.

and then finally on this side. with the exception of uh, the sway bar links, we've just got to get this tie rod bolted on. There's our castle nut down over the stud coming in with the impact on the extension. Tighten that guy down.

Very good okey doke. So pending an installation of a cotter pin on that side, we are all done here. So let us circumnavigate our Mustang head over to the passenger side and repeat a similar procedure. All right, cart's rolling in.

Let's start with our E-torques again and pull this wheel speed sensor out. Get that guy out of the out of the way right there. Talk about interference. Look at that.

The ratchet's even interfering with the strut right here. Sensor come out. Set that aside. Dude.

going back with the Wobble 24. bracket. Get rid of that, pull you aside, stick it over there for now. Then the Big 24s.

Those guys came out no problem. Spin this thing over, cruise around over here to our other side again. and then we get our caliper bolts out. All right.
Two more 15s to break loose. Oh, there's a bottom one. Top one. Oh, that's tight.

Different angle? maybe? Yeah, let's try that. There she goes. good. Impact 15 extension coming in.

Got it. Bottom one. next. Beautiful.

All right. let's get out of here some. I'm coming in with the Uh The Hanger Next and we can hang this caliper out of the way and bracket. We just don't want these things hanging off the brake hose.

It can damage the hose. That's not okay. There we go. right there.

That's good. rotors coming off, and let's get our two big bolts out. All right. Okay, that one doesn't want to move.

Hammer Time Ruin the threads. Oh my gosh. I'm out there. We go all right.

Next up, that's our ball joint nut. That's a big 24 right here. Foreign 's good. Came right out and we'll stick our puller on here.

Just like. so see if the little 3 8 will pull this thing out. Got it. Like butter.

Smooth. lack of butter. That one's pretty customatic too. Look at that.

What's up now? Hammer's not going to do it I Thought I was gonna be slick. All right. Same situation as the other side. We'll get our adapters in there, tighten down the big screw, and we can send uh, this ball joint into the trash because it is trash.

Tighten that up, line it all up, thread it all up. It's good looking good. Okay, is that a 21 down there? No 22? Yes. impacts coming in.

Let's get that set up right here. A little tight here we go. Brake pad fell out and there's our crosstimatic ball joint right there. Again, let's give that a good wipe down.

Make sure there's no debris in that control arm hole. Wipe that out. New ball joint coming in. Pull on it, tap on it, and then press on it.

There's our cone. press is coming in. Let's unthread it. Some adapter is coming in.

I'm threading it more. There we are depressed. Action Now Impact coming in here. she comes.

Got it? Okay, that's in good shape. Let's get our knuckle back in position here. Slide that guy down and over. and then we get the nut on her puppy.

Impact return click. So this ought to be fun. There appears to be a little bit more, uh, downward spring pressure on this control arm than it was on the other side. so I need to get under here with a post Jack Pick this up, compress the spring, and then get this hole and this hole to line up.

I'm not sure why I was how I was able to achieve that on the other side, but this one's going to require some assistance with the pole. Jack Let's back up some. give us some space. Oh look at here.

I Almost lost my little adapter forgot that was in there. Can't have that I need that tool for later? Come here you. Oh got it. it's out.
Good to go. You go there. this goes right in there just to help start to line everything up and we'll get the Jack right here. Go ahead and unthread it coming down, down, down pole Jack Coming down, that's probably probably good.

ready to lift up some while we're at it. All right. So now we'll swing this guy right into this position under the ball joint. That'll give us as much leverage as possible on the control arm to, uh, push up on it, compress the spring, and then get those holes lined up with the steering knuckle.

Here there we go. it's going in. just tap it on down in there. almost there.

a little bit more mole I Say there we go, see it kind of pushes the uh, the strut up some. There we go. That's what we're looking for. Let's run this one through the back side here.

If I can get it lined up properly, it's like an eighth of an inch off, right? Come here. right there it says I looks good. Anyway, there we go. that one's through.

Did I go the right way? No. I have to go in the other right way. Yeah I have that going in the right way. in the wrong direction.

So let's uh, let's put this one in from this side. yeah and we can knock this one out. Flip it around. Send it.

now. we can take the pole Jack down. We're good on the uh oh. that was loud on the strut.

Let's let this guy down. dude. Foreign. I Guess while we're here, we can throw the brake rotor back on in the caliper and then we'll put the big nuts on on the other side.

Let's grind off or polish away all that nasty old grease. It's rusty old grease there. Slide that on, Turn it. let's get our caliper unhung and I need to put the pads back in that fell out.

That's okay. there's our inboard. The shims didn't fall out so we're good here. Just squeeze that guy back in.

Get in there inboard pad please. Oh no. foreign there. and outboard pad is up next.

Slip that inside of its shims and we're good there. Back over the rotor and then two bolts. one up top and one on the bottom. Lauren Is that you back there? What is it? Do you want me to put that stuff in the scrap pile? Uh, ask Troy if he wants you to put it in the scrap pile.

here. you see what? I did there? Yeah, most it all does have to go in the scrap trailer. Yeah, all that metal out there is. uh, it's gonna be recycled.

Oh no, no, that's all that's all done with. Oh I Dropped the bolt. Dude. Um, oh yeah.

not that. not the rack and pinion gear. That's a core that's worth 87 dollars. Yeah, we don't need to throw that away.

we're doing some housekeeping. Anyway, let's get hit. Uh, let's get our upper one tight. Come here.

please. get on there. It's a tight squeeze good and the bottom got it right there. Good.

Okay, two turns with the wrench to put those at final torque right there and then once more up top. I Know you guys can't see very well. There's a caliper in the way. Sorry.
Clicks. Okay, turn this guy spin this thing over Yonder here and we set up our big bolts and then our tie rod 124 right here. Another 24 right there. We're in the home stretch now folks.

I Love the home stretch. Let's get a wrench back there for the bolt bracket coming in with our wheel speed sensor, wheel speed sensors. Next, let's get that guy lined up in its hole and our E-torques speakers. Beautiful.

Okay, we've got one tie rod left over coming in here. Push that guy up. There's our castle nut right there. She's threaded.

Okay, let's get this guy tight. Where's my Cotter pinhole? I Don't see it all right. Cotter pin going in that looks good. Pull her through here best.

I Can angle is not the greatest, but I'll live with it all right? Well, the camera shut off because it was too hot while I was doing the pins, but I did get the pin in. Let's go ahead and get the sway bar end links removed. that's top side and I think there's another nut on the bottom. Yep, that one's out.

Okay, so you can see how this one's been unbolted from the top and the bottom, but it's still stuck in there. What we need to do is go to the other side and loosen the driver's side as well. Yeah, it's not gonna work. it's loosen the driver's side as well and then pick the actual sway bar up off of this and then we can let these things free.

So let's go over to the other side. All right, we've returned to the driver's side. Let's take this one off. There you go.

that one's loose and the bottom side see at the bottom on threads. kind of. sort of in a way. Parrot Jaw fires to the rescue.

Grab all of that now, got it? And to go with these end links. I'm also going to change the actual bushings. see how that one's split right there and it seems to be sagging and coming apart. So we're gonna unbolt this, uh, this unit here and then get those bushings out.

All right, let's get in there and see if this gun's going to take these out. All right. that was easy. That one second bolt nut and we'll take the bracket off and slide or a part.

Rather, come here it doesn't want to come out. What's what is capturing this and why? Oh it's got little Clips in there. a little tabs I see mini pry bar for the win. Let's get in there and pop those tabs out.

there it is. See that those guys now this thing should or not hammer I'll bend it there next it. now. this thing I might have to just cut it off.

Come here. it's split down the middle. not all the way though. Okay.

I'll try to slide it off the end here. come on and it broke. Got it? Okey-dokes new bushing, not split coming in. this might be really hard to do.

Just kind of slide it over there and twist it so it doesn't get hung up. Yeah, it's going. That's nice. Get on there, please.

That's a tough turn to make. Need lubricant? It won't go around the corner here. We'll give it some silicone spray can do it. Yep, look at that.
slides right around. Lube is good. Okay brackets coming in next. let's get this thing set up.

Squeeze that guy down because I bent it earlier. so let's bend it back. Honk There we go. and then our little insert piece to bend it more.

How's that fit? Is that good? It will be. Yep, just like that. So we got up. dropped my nut.

It hit the wall. That one's threaded. Oh where's the one I Dropped there. It is.

Good thing we cleaned the floor. Yeah, you get in there too good. Let's get this side tight and then we'll go get the passenger side. All right, let's head back over to the passenger side.

Once again, All right, similar procedure. Let's get her loose. Oh good. That little flip thing came apart.

nice. No it didn't Not nice. Come on out. Pushing.

Come here. Oh no, it's fine. Pocket screwdriver for the win again. Then that little tab back out.

push you off and away. or twist it or what we got to do here. Sides a little tougher than the other. Yeah.

bend it. I'll hand bend it. This one's coming apart too. Look at that split right there.

All right. New bushings, spray lube coming in and slide this guy right on over. Get on there. Around the corner, the bottom piece of our bracket going in Let's Wiggle That Guy into place the insert that into place and then up over the studs, back down off the studs, back onto the studs and our two nuts here.

Nick Very nice. Okay, Last but not least, we need to get the end links in position here so we're going to feed these up through. Should I go down from the top down or from the bottom up I Realize it's a bolt. If it comes disconnected, then the bolt falls out.

but when they build these, they often do them with the bolt going top down. What do you guys think? How should I do it? I think I'll do it top down. I Believe that's the method for the least amount of reef imaginable. So let's get our bushing set up.

put that in and we've got a washer to go with it. Then this little spacer tube right here, another bushing or another washer rather than the bushing and we will set that up through the hole in the control arm right? You can't even see right there. So push that guy down. And here's their bushing washer.

and I've got to hold this sway bar down. It's trying to move up and away so one hands are kind of occupied here. All right, thread started. Let's go hang up the driver's side.

All right. Last trip over here to the driver's side, we're gonna repeat procedure. Let's get that light out of yellow spaces right there. There we go.

Okay, so we got coming in. top down, pushing slide that washer tube washer again, bushing again and then down through the hole. Pull the Whole Thing Down by hanging actually I'd say what, we'll pry bar the thing down. that'll do it more.
Oh, come on there now. I can fit The bushing in the washer and the nut on the bottom here. All right. Last chance it's got a good pry position on this.

just need to get a couple threads started. We'll be okay as long as my pry bar doesn't slip there we go. Got it all right? let's give this a couple hits. With the impact going in, we're gonna go that far to the top of the 15.

that's my little marker. Let's get this next one. top of the 15. that's right where I want it.

Okay, that feels good. Yeah, you don't do these super tight because if you do, it'll just smash the bushings out of it because you could just tighten it up all the way. You just do it until it puts a little bit of compression on all of the bushings. and uh, then you're good.

And since I have grubby, fingy prints on everything, we need to wash that off. Ah, all right, let's go ahead get this stuff cleaned off. No more fingerprints, just the light dusting. I Saw the alien was over there.

I'm not gonna I'm not gonna flood the building with dangerous chemicals since my little alien was running around there. She is all right. side rotor number two. Hose that guy down.

Give her a turn this in case there's any over here. Free spray there we go! Ah my hangy thing. All right. good to go.

let's get the wheels back on and I need to take this thing on the road, give it a quick test drive and then get it over to the alignment shop to get the Uh the front geometric suspension alignment to be completed our shop and drop it off and uh, let them have it for a wheel alignment. so let us stockings the engine. it is alive. Alrighty So I guess quick recap: We did front ball joints.

We did a steering gear we did outer tie rod ends. We did a power steering pump. We did an AC compressor, I fixed a Uh a running rich condition on both Banks because it had a a faulty fuel rail pressure sensor uh I fixed that little o-ring leak that was on the transmission tail shaft seal and I think it put wiper blades on it too. There was one other complaint and that complaint stated that when uh, installing gasoline into the fuel tank, on occasion, the gas would spill it back out.

I Have not addressed that concern yet. I Wanted to get all of the drivability and safety stuff handled before we did something with the emission system and the fuel tank vent valve is an emissions component. so I wanted to get through everything else before attempting to diagnose that. but that being said, I'm gonna have to do that at a later day because I have an appointment at the other shop.

So I need to bring this car over to them and let them do what they got to do. and when I get it back I Will recheck the uh, that fuel tank uh, gas spilling situation that this thing had. So let's get out on the road and see how this thing runs and drives and feels and all that good stuff. Make sure there's no weird noises Parts falling off things of that nature and we'll go ahead and bring this thing over and get the wheels wheel alignment completed.
all right and away we go. Right as the rain started. Good thing I put new YB blades on it. Well, my eyeball wheel alignment is horrible.

We're about uh, 40 degrees off to the left right here, but it's driving straight so that's okay. Ball joints are tight, those are pressed, everything's bolted on, wheels are tight, brakes are tight. I'm just going through my checklist to make sure we're good. I Think we're good.

Wipers are good, very nice. Seems to run a little bit better too. I Don't feel that hesitation and shutter under load. All right everybody.

I Think we're good to go on this one. Nothing left for me to do at this current point in time except it can lose this video out right about now and I will do that as always, but they can each and every one of you guys for watching this video. I Certainly hope you enjoyed this video and the series of videos if you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comments section down below. Do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there and most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day! See you guys later in the video in the Mustang into ball joints into transmission.


90 thoughts on “Busted ball joints! 2003 ford mustang 4.6 gt”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mark Taylor says:

    That ball joint is not trash! Its perfectly usable. It just needs a little grease. Shouldn't call peoples stuff trash… haha could you imagine trying to say stuff like that with a straight face.

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Elinore Berkley says:

    Your videos are very nice.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rob Chiste says:

    Im pretty handy in the garage but I I seriously broke 2 tooks trying to separate the ball joint to the knuckle and still didn't get it done. I gave up im bringing it in to the professionals..😂

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Martin Ingenbrandt says:

    I'm not a smart man but wouldn't it have made more sense to drop that sway bar before changing out the compressor, ps pump and rack 🤔

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Gus says:

    I was goin to comment on x-files music and little aliens but it's been done. LOL

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Gregory Gomez says:

    YOU MISSED ONE BOLT RAY WHEN INSTALLING THE STRUT.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars William findspennies says:

    1978 they went totally metric for all automobiles. The metric fasteners are more precise.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David Cuc Choc says:

    I love your videos so much, I learn alot from your videos, I just got hired at Toyota im currently a lube tech and 18 years old and at the T Ten program getting trained to be a line tech. I take alot of inspirations on the different methods you do to do repairs and the tools you use. your amazing

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bas Bass says:

    With small children in the building, i would worry even more about triple check they are not suddenly behind you right in the blind spot behind the car.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Funar says:

    I probably say it every time one of your kiddos makes an appearance in your videos, but I love seeing them hanging out in the shop. You're doing a great job. These times will stick with them their entire life.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars William Young says:

    We was trying to scream at the phone RAY YOU FORGOT YOUR ADAPTER LOL😂😂😂😂

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Papa Toms Thoughts says:

    Did I miss the hair pin on drivers side ball joint? Good video.

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Broc Williams says:

    You might need to check the passenger side top strut mount

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars jhamgp59 says:

    RAY, WE ALL STILL MISS THE DOO DEE DOO DAA DOO'S

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bob says:

    Curious why you didn't clean up the re-used rotor. Would that not lessen the chance of the rim being put on with some minor runout? Sorry, northern guy.

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Pi Thomas says:

    Did I miss the first split pin (not cotter pin!!) on the tie rod?

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Darker Binding says:

    Ray, you've forsaken gloves? Your phalanges are at risk… 🖐

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars King TarreVizla says:

    about time you stopped using them raggedy gloves mechanic hand cleaner is your friend 🤣😎

  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Donald Huffman says:

    Hey Ray great video just wanted to ask you if you put both nuts on the one wheel sensor looked like only top nut got put on? Have a great day 👍

  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Kevin Legoreta says:

    What’s the part number for the transmission tail shaft seal?

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Onaopemipo Odetunde says:

    Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee

  22. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars allbrant says:

    Did you put the other cotter pin in?

  23. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Alex S says:

    Hi Ray! Do you think purchasing some wheel aligment equipment for your shop, some day? BTW, great video as always 🙂

  24. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jack Bo says:

    ATTN: On right side did not see you put on the bottom nut for the wheel sensor bracket. You put on top nut, then you went to install the wheel sensor and then to the ball joint. I am sure you caught the extra bolt on your bench before sending over to the wheel alignment shop, but just in case I wanted to point that out to you. Probably no big deal.

  25. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars jeffrey bussie says:

    @Rainman Ray, did you ever put that cotter pin in on the drivers side?

  26. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars SKYNET says:

    RAY, WHATS THE TEMPERATURE IN THE SHOP TODAY? WE'VE HAD OUR AC OFF ALL WEEK. WINDOWS OPEN. DOWN INTO THE 50S AT NIGHT AND HIGHS IN THE 70S

  27. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars SKYNET says:

    YOU HAVE ROCKELL PLAYING AGAIN IN THE BACKGROUND. AWESOME!!!
    JUST FOR THAT IM ACTUALLY GIVING YOU A THUMBS UP ON THIS ONE

  28. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Wretched Excess says:

    I still miss the "Doodley, Doodley, Doo!"

    When are you going to get that sonic work interrupter installed and operational?

  29. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Martin Cooper says:

    anyone else noticed no signs of troy?

  30. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Matt D says:

    Great job Ray!

  31. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Brett Emerich says:

    Nice diagnosis of the fuel rail sensor other shop probably wouldn’t find it. Have a good day Ray

  32. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars john payne says:

    You said about avoiding flack for not cleaning the flange but didn’t clean the mateing surface, and from what I saw of the pads did they go metal to metal before you got out of the workshop or was my view of the pads an illusion?

  33. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Stevo says:

    thankyou Ray,very interesting content,the shops looking good to,,,👍👍

  34. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars T. J. says:

    Did they really say no to the torn fuel tank grommet?

  35. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars rivercidal says:

    Ray, I'm just an old mechanic from UTI. How's it going? Well, I just watched your Busted Ball Joint's and really liked your video. But unfortunately, you had an incident where a kid was seen playing on your floor. This is not good. I sure hope OSHA does not find out about it. Keep on rockin'.

  36. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Garth Junor says:

    Didn't circumnavigate the Mustang, you only semicircumnavigated it. Get with the precision sir

  37. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Aaron says:

    I wonder when Ray is going to buy a pallet of brake cleaner.

  38. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars anthony fym says:

    The snap on bjp1 isn't that expensive anymore 660

  39. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Iconoclastab says:

    Did he ever install the cotter pin on that other castle nut? Driver's side tie rod?

  40. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Unwired says:

    Did the inside of the rotor look like the hub?

  41. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Don Reese says:

    Did you get the cotter pin on the driver side link?

  42. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Nine. Four says:

    Someone please make my dream come true and send Ray an RX-8 and have him do an engine rebuild. I'll buy you a keg of brakeclean

  43. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars 68stonesfan says:

    The shop walls are looking great, as is the floor. Are you going to do a shop update soon?

  44. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Janne Karppanen says:

    Would not be bad idea to clean rust also from center of brake rotor.

  45. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bobby Franco says:

    Did I miss seeing a lower nut on the driver's side strut bracket?

  46. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Christopher Marshall says:

    Do up the bolts until they break, or strip, then back off 2.5 turns!!!!!!!!!!! hehehehehe!!!

  47. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars peter daughtrey says:

    Disjointed Mustang will soon Stretch out it's legs again.

  48. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars John T says:

    I have to jump on the bandwagon . . . the shop is looking great! Really like what you are doing with it. But . . . Reeeeeee! You didn't film that first cotter pin. 😉

  49. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mike W 🇬🇧 says:

    Oh dear Ray, you fail. No honk for safety when you came out of the shop, especially when your little alien is running around. Shame on you!

  50. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars DOC _7 says:

    Don’t forget your thermometer

  51. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars CRAIG D says:

    That is about the piss poorest clean up, or prep of installing the new ball joint.. wtf

  52. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Roger Blok says:

    If I'm not mistaken I believe you left one cotter pin out otherwise good

  53. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Otter Outside the Reef says:

    I'm so very sad. Soooooo many Brakleen opportunity's missed.

  54. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Michael Eckard says:

    What about making the rotor nice 'n shiny?

  55. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Aaron Johns says:

    Oooops my bad sorry nevermind i just rewatched you not a wallyburger i am

  56. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jon Doe says:

    Did you remember to put the split pin in on the right side?

  57. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Aaron Johns says:

    Hey you missed a nut on drivers side that holds suspension arm . Ya wally burger

  58. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Phat Bassturd says:

    did you remember to take your thermometer out of the vent?

  59. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Graeme Edgar says:

    that steering wheel being wonky would drive me mad.

  60. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Seamas Righ says:

    I'm kind of amazed at how relatively easy this Mustang was to work on. The steering rack, sway bar bushings and links gave you so little trouble. Add to that the Ford engineers must've taken a day off when they did these cars – nothing obscured, ridiculously complex, yeah. amazes me how they can even look us in the face these days with their little games. On another point, those X-files sightings just slay me.

  61. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dave76 says:

    Oh no it’s are 51….
    Any chance to poke the bear I see 🤣
    Love ya work shop looks great 👍👍

  62. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Eldon Howard says:

    👍

  63. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jamie Patterson says:

    Amazing shop transformation since you moved in. The walls that have been painted make it look brighter in the shop.

    Thought you forgot the cotter pin on the driver side, but you must have placed it off camera.

  64. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Daddyoh says:

    Did you forget your temp gauge in the AC vent?

  65. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Todd Adams says:

    Ray, I really don’t like being this way so I’m going to be “careful” in how I say this. When you’re talking about the fastener sizes (like you commonly do) you’re actually talking about the tool size that it takes to manipulate said fastener. For instance, a 10mm wrench size is almost always a 6mm fastener. For a standard size example: 9/16 is usually a 5/16 fastener. Like I said, I’m not trying to be negative Nancy and I was commonly making the same references when I started doing my own shade tree mechanic work. Then I started working in a nut and bolt distributor and I realized JUST HOW WRONG I WAS. I’m not expecting you to do anything different in your vids because it’s difficult to know exactly what the fastener stock size is for so many situations but it would be nice if you “might” be able to say something about you using the tool sizes instead. I know that I’m being persnickety, so it’s like I said, it’s my fault that I’m being a negative Nancy, but it’s just how I was taught and corrected but my teacher wasn’t as nice. 🤬🤷🏻‍♂️

  66. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jeff says:

    I have the same fuel fill issue on my 2000 Mustang, so I will be eagerly waiting for the next video.

  67. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ian Tyler says:

    The owner of that Mustang is going to notice a big improvement all round. Can you relocate to Aus and work on my cars please.

  68. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars SlammedNiss says:

    Maybe I missed it, but did you replace the cotter pins?

  69. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David Quinn says:

    I'd love to know the brand and model of the tool you use to clean around wheel studs. Would save me a lot of time and effort.

  70. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dude__66 says:

    Master and Apprentice can we beginners have a Troyman Troy version of Rainman Ray to see an up and coming Technicians eye view of the crazy world of Technicians.

  71. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jolly Goodbeard says:

    That owner must really love their mustang to do all that work the crazy thing is I know how to do all this work but I need to have a deploma or a Ged to be an auto service tech and I have neither 😢

  72. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Pyro Vulpes says:

    "Lube is good!" -Rainman Ray, 2023

  73. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jarod Sissom says:

    Damn, shop's looking clean

  74. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Lamatrise Fontain says:

    Ray, that silicone spray works in both directions makes those bushings come off just as easy as they go on. 😊

  75. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dennis Boesiger says:

    Are we going to see a new trailer in the inventory?

  76. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Daddyoh says:

    Safety with the pole jack Ray.

  77. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Paul Werner says:

    Ray, don't forget your thermo meter in the center vent…

  78. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Devin Angola says:

    Good to see meat and potato(bread and butter for most shops) repairs going on!😁😉
    Just leave that poor alien daughter of yours alone, she’s just trying to have fun whilst daddy talks to himself ! 😂

  79. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bob Hudson says:

    I am a retired mechanic/machinist. In Australia for a period of time in mid 2000s we had a similar design on the front suspension of Fords where the lower ball joint is held in tension while car has wheels on the ground. I have seen what happens if the ball joint pulls out of the lower control arm – not pretty. The wheel immediately twists to sit at right angles to the car, jamming itself on the trailing edge of the front wheel opening – doesn't do much for the shape of the guard. Car comes to a screeching halt. At home I also have 2 lower ball joints off a Ford sedan where one ball joint is taller than the other – it had started to move upward because of wear and if not caught in time, owner would have found out the consequences the hard way. Lesson. Check the ball joints regularly on vehicles with that suspension design. Ford corrected the flaw in stub axle and lower control arm design in later vehicles so that the ball joint is always in compression.

  80. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Christopher Wise says:

    if she was a twin and they both did that, that sound effect would definitely be appropriate, lmao!!!

  81. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Joe Bennefield says:

    Was that your little girl 🌹🌹 so cute

  82. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Michael Martin says:

    Risky shortcuts are risky any day of the week so if in need to process do so Friday. If ya get fired the you have a weekend to drown your sorrows.

  83. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Joe Bennefield says:

    You need better lighting sometimes it's a little dark 😜

  84. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Craig Beaven says:

    Had several f up the lower C-arm on install , I just went to swap lower arms , have coil spring clamps , no issues , Maybe throw in a pair of struts also .. up to customer …

  85. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Craig Beaven says:

    Clamp the coil springs an go for it

  86. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars r2h says:

    Man, I just did this on an Acura RSX. What a pita. Wasn't as easy as this.

  87. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Craig Beaven says:

    Ray , Why did you not throw lower C-arm's under it Bro ?

  88. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ron Hall says:

    hope we get a video dedicated to that last clean-up/cleaning

  89. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Guy Clements says:

    Hey Ray all you need is a pickle fork a jack stand and a 5 lb sledge hammer throw that press away

  90. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars K Ell says:

    Did we miss a wheel speed sensor bracket nut?

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