Check Engine Light DISABLED! Codes hidden from Driver! 2003 Ford Mustang GT 4.6
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to

Alrighty folks, we have some approvals for our 2003 Ford Mustang Four Six. We're gonna start with buttoning up the leaks. in the first inspection video on this car and in the complaints. Uh, our customer had stated that the power steering has a leak.

We found two leaking components on the power steering. The pump is leaking at the shaft and the steering gear is leaking at the Bellows boot on the passenger side. Uh, the next leak that we had found ended up being an AC compressor leak. There is a shaft seal leak and it's leaking refrigerant.

The bottom of this unit is covered in ultraviolet dye, and there's also a secondary leak at that fitting right there. So what we're gonna do in this episode is we're going to pull off this front accessory drive belt. Uh, we're gonna get rid of the belt and toss that away because this belt is starting to fray and come apart and we're going to pull the power steering pump. We're gonna pull the AC compressor.

We're gonna pop that fitting open and see if we can't re-o-ring it to seal that up. And if we have enough time, we'll start the power steering rack and pinion. So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video opening. Z Hood Here's our brake rotor.

There was a great Rudder All right, let's get right into it. First things first is this belt has to come off. so we're going in with a 3 8 ratchet. We're gonna untension the tensioner, slide that unit off right there, and get our ratchet back.

All right. So let's see. we'll pluck this belt out of here off the crank. Come here off the water pumps that's been replaced off of that idler pulley down there, and the tensioner and the AC Come here.

all the way. There we go. All right, Bell is out. Let us go fetch the AC machine, recover this system.

Then we'll raise this car up and start taking apart the Uh accessories including the power steering and compressing unit. Where is my AC machine? Ah, over here. it's far far away. Rolling.

Rolling. Rolling. AC Roll in. That doesn't make any sense.

Okay, hoses, machine powering on. Beep. Let's get this thing recovered and disassemble. All right.

High Side Service Port right in front of us. Get that guy on. Begin recovering. Now there we go.

And low side part I Like that sound? Are you recovering yet? Here we go. Okay, while our machine is recovering, let's go ahead and pull the wheels off this thing. This car has splined lug nuts on that. see those capped spline lug nuts.

so we're gonna have to use a wheel lock tool to remove those. now. a lot of customers do not realize that they have these or they have lost them. which is why I Keep my own I Have a master set of these things that way.

I Don't have to dig through your car to find your wheel lock key. Let's pull these guys off. Yeah, right there. Now it's a spline.

Drive Yeah, let's get the wheels off. Oh oh I'm dumb I forgot I forgot what I was talking about while I was doing it I Like these wheels too These are nice Wheels Nice and shiny, very clean look. The five spoke nothing crazy I did not mention it yet. but we're also going to be uh, changing out the ball joints, tie rods, and sway bar bushings and leak links on this uh particular.
Mustang basically doing a front end rebuild and we're fixing some leaks. Let's get that over here. Park you one more. Okay, the machine says the system is now discharged.

let's disconnect our service hoses and get the machine out of here. And then we'll go. Uh, we'll raise this thing up, go down below and start disassembling components. Let's wrap that right on back up you and you go right there.

All right Mustang Moving back up green subscribe button from the wind. All righty. Let's Get Down Below and I Guess we'll start pulling stuff apart since the compressor is staring at us in the face and everything's easily accessible. We're gonna pull this guy out first.

I Do not believe I Have all the space needed to get power tools in here so we'll just do this with some manual wrenches. At first we can power tool the big bolts out later foreign that is a compressor. Bolt for compressor bracket bolt and we've got. There's one more connector right here on this harness.

I Think that's a crankshaft position sensor connector. Yeah. I'm just going to pull that off and we'll set this harness aside now. I've got access to the three bolts that uh, Bolt the compressor onto the engine block and then there's one bolt up here for that manifold.

so that 10 mil on the manifold is kind of recessed a little bit. I'm going to try to get in there with a lower profile socket and that's not. Nope, it's hitting the exhaust manifold. I Got it.

Check it out! So I have this 10 millimeter spline Drive ratcheting wrench range. These ones are matte codes, but they're also made by Mountain tools. I think Mountain makes them for Mac though. Anyway, this thing has this offset to it and that might might give me the contact I'm looking for on that bolt up there.

Oh yeah, yeah, yeah, it goes right in. Watch this. Oh, that's tight too. Whoa.

Yeah, there we go. now. she's loose. We're broke free.

The right tool just saved the day. I Bet that thing is a bear to get out of there with. like just a regular socket or something. Why are we doing that? Recovered? No.

Well, that wasn't supposed to happen. serious right now. It's blue, just all the greenness on me. Well anyway, now that that last little bit of pressure is out of there, let's continue moving on.

Let's just get this last bolt out, then the manifold's free and then we can pull this thing off the block. You know what that was? I Found the reserves that was refrigerant reserves. That's what we were doing. Probably not, but it sounded good, right? Let's see if this is going to come out of there more.
Oh, you know what? I know what that was about. That was a feature. It's built-in thread lubricant. see now this.

uh, this. Bolt's coming out a lot easier due to the presence of the oil. So that was actually a design feature of this compressor to help ease removal. That's what that was.

Glad we got that figured out a little more. Nope. I can't get it. I Was hoping to get the manifold to just come off and slide out because it's slotted on this one side, but I've got to just pull that out all the way more speed.

This would be the most horrible thing to do ever with a like a regular boxed in wrench or an open-ended wrench. Yeah, no thanks. Take like two hours to get this bolt out. It's already taking too long with a ratcheting wrench.

Dude, it was. We had the we had the wrong gear ratio Let's uh, switch it to a shorter throw range. up the ratio some we can go a little faster. It's like Switching gears on your bike and we got more top end out of it.

All right. There's our Fastener the manifold is free. What is that chunk of? Leaf I found a leaf? All right. All righty.

So next up there's the three. Fasteners there's one, two, and three. that, uh, bolt this unit to the block. I'm just gonna crack those loose with a ratchet real quick like.

and then we'll spin them out with a power tool. The one on top is the Annoying looking one because the uh, the sway bar right here is kind of in the way that one's loose. that one's loose. Nice unclickage as we get out of this thing.

I like that aluminum crack. There we go. Let's get that top one pulled out of there. got a gravity? gotta slide it down.

Okay, yeah, look at that. No way. You guys suck at designing stuff. Look at that.

Who does this? Who does this? I mean I work around it. but still. it's just one of those things next. Crust-o-matic in there.

that's nasty. Okay, last one on the bottom hold them out of the compressor with my left hand. Over here. she's loose.

Just wiggle this thing down. some. come here, come out. I Got that mid plate.

that was awesome. All right. So now, I'm just going to squeeze this thing down through this little hole right here and she's out. Let's go ahead and wipe off some of this green nasty I Don't want it dripping all over everything.

Get rid of that I'll clean that off later. All right, let's spin this around a little bit and disconnect that uh, this fitting right here that seems to be leaking. Also, it's covered in UV dye and compressor oil, so we can only assume that there's a leak here at those uh, at the O-rings in there. So these fittings cannot be disconnected without a tool to release them.

There's a spring inside of there and that spring engages like a lip on this other component here, and when they're pushed together, the spring goes over the lip and and kind of retains the thing into place. So we need to walk into there with uh, this release tool and get behind that spring. I think it just went in. We get behind the spring and then we can kind of separate these two components.
get in there tool. These are not particularly easy to get apart either. Gravity things falling on me. Okay, you slide this thing off that bracket I need to be able to kind of put twists and whatnot into this to get it apart.

so I unbolted this this Muffler from the bracket up top. think it's coming out I'm pushing it away with my thumb and rocking it and I believe it's coming apart. Come on, come on here we go. Okay, got it.

That's the part. So all I need to do here is just re-o-ring this and uh, that leak should stop. Let's get my tool back. cookie dough.

So in order to get these O-rings out, we're just gonna go behind them with a little pocket driver. pluck them out one at a time. There's three of these here. Funny that all three ended up leaking.

Eventually, you're in that one and uno mas. Come here. Last one got her all righty new. O-rings coming in and they got a self-lubricating modification here.

The oil dripping out these guys on one at a time. pocket driver. Really, it really helps. just don't fry at it.

It's two. and number three. Come on there we go. Okay, three new O-rings on that leaky fitting.

So now this thing can get plugged back in. Oh, here's the spring inside. I Didn't say that yet. See a little Spring right there? That is what retains this fitting to the uh, it's mating fitting on the other side.

and this one here has the flare. So all I got to do. Wiggle that guy in it. Clicked.

We're good and I'll hang that back on its bracket. Now we can toss that compressor back in. or the new compressor rather. I have it over on the Shelf There it is.

Motorcraft Compressor Part Number: Yankee Charlie Charlie 495 Get this guy unboxed compared to the old one and then bolted back in. Pocket Screwdriver also serves as box openers. One of the most universal tools everywhere. ever.

Cannot be flushed. What is this? Many components Cannot be flushed. So if there's dryers, accumulators, and extension valves. Yep, good thing we're changing this for a leak and not a catastrophic failure.

There she is. Let's see. our clutches look the same. Our ribs look the same.

Let's see our mounting surfaces look the same. and I think our ports look the same. Sure, they have an integrated seal in the compressor case. All right, that's good.

Okay, let's get this thing buttoned up. Alrighty. Compressor coming in. I've still got the plug over the service port entrance.

That way my oil doesn't dump out and here's that. That's the bolt that's kind of captured by the sway bar. Put that through the hole and then align this guy up. Come here.

begin lining up. Now. Like I said, there you go. That's it.
kind of. upper bolt is threaded. dude. that's gonna secure the unit so we can't fall out.

and then just below got two more Fasteners going in. There are dowels like little pins alignment pins in the compressor that fit into the block by the way, so it can't become misaligned. There we go. Put that up.

Slippage. All right. Let's get a little bit of manual torque on these just to make sure they stay tight a little more. There we go.

leakage bottom ones next. not too much. Don't break them off, but you don't want them to vibrate out either. I Need to get this bolt back out that holds in that plug.

I Kind of captured this manifold in that plug. I Can't get it out. A good thing is stuck There we go and then the same bolt it just came out. It's going to go into secure that connection.

Gravity. There we go. Now we're all lined up good. Let's just spin this guy down and get it tight.

All right. I Cannot thread it anymore by hand. so let's get the wrench in there. the offset ratcheting spline drive again.

We'll make this thing tight and that's a successful install. Almost got to put the bracket back on and plug it in of course. Okay. Manifolds: tight wiring harness is coming down right back around the back side.

and let's get that crank position sensor plugged back in the engine. Won't run without that. We're gonna need that plug that guy in right there. And then our compressor plug.

Oh, this one's relocated. Look, it's up here. Get in there. there we go.

Okay, the bracket and the bracket. Bolt Let's just get that last little detail squared away. Screw that guy in. Ah, very good.

All right. let's make it tight and bracket clicks. Good to go. Okay, compressor swap is complete.

Let's move over to the power steering pump. now. this one. Okay you guys, this one might be a little Messier because there's fluid to be spilled.

We have a new pump with a new pulley. It's in the Box behind me. So what we need to do here is fold that fitting off this hose right here. and then one bolt here.

one bolt here, and then another one hiding out in the back somewhere. Once those three are out, same procedure, the thing will fall right out. All right, let's get after this hose fitting right here. I need to get a wrench in there behind this pulley to get a hold of that.

I'm a little concerned because there's a possibility that I could, uh hit this thing. So I'm going to remove this connector for the oil pressure sender. Try to squeeze in this wrench right here. It's an 18 mil.

A lot of these. You have to remove the pulleys to get to the fittings. but I think I think I can squeeze this wrench in there? Maybe? Yeah. Oh yeah, there we go.

It turned, saw it. I saw it happen. Yep, it's coming loose. Very good.

A couple more turns on this guy got the flashlight. A couple more turns here and I should be able to get it out by hand. Awkward weird angles. Yeah, it's probably designed to remove.
Uh, where you have to remove the pulley to get this fitting out. but we worked around that didn't We 15. it's like every time you turn it, you can't put the wrench back in the place where you started from. It just doesn't turn enough is why I'm just kind of doing this at this uh, very odd angle here.

I mean I suppose I could pull the pump out and hang it down some. but I don't I don't know I'll just do it like this. This is fine. Oh, here we go.

Idea: Actual Crow's foot wrench I don't often use these. Fun fact: these are one of the first tools I ever bought. it's a a Craftsman set before they before like Sears went out of business. the Craftsman set that I bought in the year 2000 I Remember I paid 21 for the whole set.

Yeah, that's the weird thing about tools. Like if you have a tool for a long long time or it's one of your earlier on tools or even an important one, you'll always remember exactly what you paid for the thing. at least that's how I am. But just with tools I don't remember anything else, just hand tools.

Weird, Come on. Fading it's almost out there We go. We got some fluid flow. let it ride goodbye, power steering fluid I Don't need you that fittings, tripping fittings out and let this drain for a little while and then we'll unbolt everything here.

While we're here, let's get out that little hose. that one there, that's the hose to the reservoir I'll just uh. needle nose, flyer, that clamp. No, not that way.

come back. Maximum drainage. There we go. Alrighty, let's see if the quarter inch gun will pull these bolts out of here.

Either will or it won't. That one comes out dude that one. but I don't think I can reach that other one up there. Negative: two out of three is not bad.

All right. I think we're done draining. Let's get those uh, upper bolts. Uh, there's actually four and not three.

I thought there was three but I thought wrong. I found the fourth one hiding out behind that uh Reservoir hose that I just pulled and it's back there here. She comes there. we go.

pump coming out, falling out. ah it's leaking on me. two. Come here.

Pump. uh how are we gonna do this? You gotta go up and over our sway bar. I think it's not gonna fit to the bottom and down and around and through got her. she's out.

Okay, that's our old pump and I believe our leak was at the shaft seal right back here behind the pulley. so we have a new one in the Box All righty coming in with the new pump here. let's do a quick comparison to starting with the bottom. It has both of the little pins that align it.

see them right here and right here they're on the original one. Here's our port for our Reservoir right there and pulleys are the same and it looks like the pressure hose is also the same. So this pump is good to go. Let's get this guy installed same way it came out.
We're gonna go up and around I'm leaving the plugs in in case there's oil in this thing. I Don't want to. uh whoa. drop it.

Yeah, if there's oil in it I don't want to spill it on myself so I won't. Okay, there's one bolt that's going to locate it and secure it. second one is a backup just to make sure. Here we go.

Okay, okay, two more bolts coming in I'll get the top ones and then we can just button all this stuff back up real easy. like that one's in okay bottom. Fasteners Next, let's put some torque on these guys. There we go.

That one's good and oh, missed that one. Nice. Put our hose back on, put the clamp back on thin clamps in the same place on the hose. That's what we like and now we just have to get the pressure fitting installed which will require a new uh gasket.

See this little white thing on here? that's the gasket. So I need to get rid of that. Pull this one off and put the new one on. This thing's still leaking fluid out of it.

Come here, you thing there. Get rid of that new ones coming in. Slide that right down over this leaking like a stiff kind of fitting business. Here it's getting kind of caught up on the threads.

The Job: for the pocket screwdriver. You can put pressure in places where my fingers can't I'm just kind of using this driver to hold it and I'm running it through the threads. See that just twisting that fitting and using the threads to run this, uh, plastic gasket thing on. So now that's in place, let's get the plug back out of the pump.

I left that in. pull that guy out of there. It also just unbreads. Come here.

Doug Here we go. Yeah, aha, there was fluid in there and I spilled like 10 times as much going in with the Crow's foot to start these threads because I can't really turn that fitting, putting pressure on it with my left hand and holding the fitting in alignment. This isn't started straight. You can get in this situation where you're cross threaded.

So yeah, we're not going in. I don't want to cross red boots? There we go. It's starting to bite now. Okay, threads are engaged dude.

So let's run this down and I'll get her tight and then this, uh, power steering pump will be a success. Okay, we're starting to bottom out. Let's get tight There we go. A little more turns here with the wrench and I think we're uh, we're in good shape.

Become tight now, please. I think that's good. Yeah, the fittings tight. Don't want to go too much.

All right, that's good. We're all set here All right. Let's climb out of this dungeon. let's get rid of this pump and throw that.

uh I Guess we'll throw this in the Box I Don't know if it has a core or not, but it's going in the Box Okay, all right. so now we can clearly see there's oil and fluid that has been spilled and dripped everywhere. so we need to clean that out before we move on. Goodbye oil and fluid and power steering and sludge and run.
Hey look. taking the paint off the or the sealant, someone put silicone on this power steering gear to make it stop leaking. My brake cleaning will defeat the RTV Goodbye Nasty. Oh this is a different brake clean.

This smells like it smells like hair salon. must be the acetone. Yeah, all that. get all that out of here.

Not what we want. Another All right guys. That's two out of the three leaks have been resolved. Uh, the third leak is this: Bellows Boot on this power steering rack.

so we're gonna go ahead and pull this rack out next. Uh, we're gonna pull the tie rods off. Uh, we're putting new tie rod ends on with the new power steering gear. So this entire assembly is going to be removed.

Uh, right about now. So uh. first place to start I think is going to be at the outer tie rods. so we need to pull those cotter pins and unbolt and break free.

Uh, these units right here. Okay, in order to get started, let us lose this cutter pin right here. Pull that guy out. Leverage Now I Don't intend to show these tie rods any Mercy because we're replacing them.

so I'm just going to bash them out with a hammer. Okay, that one's uh, loose actually I changed my mind I don't have any space to fit a hammer in here so I actually will use a the proper tool tie rod puller for the win. Send it slip. Yeah dude, what is that about? No man.

All right, that one doesn't fit all right again. Okay I know this puller works because I use it on everything I'm gonna have to use this guy. become lined up. please.

gonna have to bend this backing plate. so I'm gonna it'll be all right I can mend it back. Okay oh new battery. Whoa.

got it. That was violent you guys? Okay I hope so. Okay that one's out. Let's go get the other side next.

round two fight. Cotter pin is coming out just like the other side. We will use, uh, some friction and leverage here to cry that guy out. oh it's resisting.

Yeah, you stood. no chance. bolt coming out. nut got it.

and Fuller coming in. let's back it off and this thing's set up in here. There we go. foreign, right there on the stud.

There we go right there. Perfect. All right. let's hit it back up some.

That last one was kind of violent. Got it? Now let's just push that over down and now she's out. Beautifus. Okay, so let's go down below.

We'll detach the steering shaft from the steering gear and then we can pull these bolts out and then pop this gear off. All right. So down here, on the back side of the car, under the engine oil pan. we need to get to this bolt right here which attaches the steering shaft to the uh, the steering gear right there.
I Think I can pull that out with this wobble right here. The 13 mil. Thank you. It's not gonna do it.

Uh. negative Ghost Rider We need a bigger gun. Okay, or I just break it Loose by hand. Yeah, we can do that.

You stay there. here. we go. What we'll do is crack it Loose with the Wobble 13 extension and then we can back it out with the uh electric gun here.

Unclick these. Oh, it's not working. Oh there we go. Okay, now it's it's loose now.

Switching tools cannot reach. Now my wobble's wobbled the wrong way. Yeah, that was easy. pry bar action here.

that one and that should finish off the steering shaft area. Everything is a hammer. There we go. Sweet.

Okay, let's move around the front over here and we gotta pull that 21 and that one and this whole rack should just slide right out. All right. 18 mil coming in. Loud noises.

Okay, the stud's Turning I gotta hold it from the back side so you got a nut, then the stud. The stud runs all the way through the cross member. Sometimes these studs will just rust out in there and they get stuck and then the nut just turns uh and comes off. This one is turning.

so I need to hold it from the back? Yeah, going in with another uh wobble socket here here with me. so I can figure out where this is going to bolt in. Um I can't see it there. it is.

Do that. Now we've got a hold of it. Good got it. And I'll push that bolt through.

but I'll leave it in the frame. It doesn't need to come out all the way. So that's one side. same thing over here on this other side.

upside down. just get behind it. Yeah, there we go. On naked.

That's tight. Okay, both of those. Let's go ahead and push that one in. Hammer Time And the rack is free except for the steering lines which I can't reach because they're up there.

Okay, now the rack is unbolted, but there are still two power steering lines that run right back over here. I'm wondering I think I can get those from from right here. Yeah, let's take those things out and then this whole unit's gonna come free. Hey, right in here.

We've got two more pressure hoses uh, left over and once these guys are off, unit is coming out. Let's give these guys loose. Okay, that fittings out. I Think all the way.

Yep, she's coming free and we're draining some more oil. Come on. I Just cleaned all that. Now it's now.

it's making a mess again. It's not what I wanted to do. That's fine. I'll spray it off more later and one more fitting out the back.

There we go. It's the last one Live my life. a quarter turn at a time. It's all.

I Know, Got it. That's it. It's free. It has achieved.

Freedom All right, let's get this Uh unit out of the car and then swapped out with its replacement. It's over there on the floor. It was delivered earlier. Weird.

come out Steering gear. Oh, this side's kind of stuck. Primar pry bar, everything. Yeah, the bushings are hanging up.
Got it? Okay, Steering gear is Tangled Up in its lines. Oh no. One line is stuck between these two other lines. That's not good.

Come here. It's gonna leak all over me, what's up, and there's a bushing over here that needs to go get rid of that guy. All right, let's go in here and just kind of wipe this down a little bit. That way our new, uh, our new bushings don't immediately become saturated in grease and oil.

So here's our replacement unit. One of the plugs is gone, but no worries, those are our plugs and ports for the fittings. It's remanufactured replacement unit and I believe it meets the specs and fits. So this guy is going in foreign.

Let's get our hoses up and out of the way for now and we'll take this guy. Oh, put that up there too. it's in the way dangling. Slip this unit right on in, over those little studs for big studs.

Rather, give it a push and a wiggle. Oh, and a wiggle and a punch. Get in there and then two more bushings reach back in there. push that through washer and nut.

All right. Going around the back to get the uh, the ratchet on the Big Bolt that's in place. noises right? That one's tight and then one more over here on the other side on the bolt click. Got it? Okay, let's toss the outer tie rods on.

Uh, we've got new jam nuts and a new outer tie rod to go with. So what I'm going to do is finger space these threads. So we got two fingers and that's for the jam nut stops. so that's how far down we're gonna run this jab nut two fingers so it's going to come down and thread to like that position right there.

Begin threading on. Now without the jam nut, you cannot achieve a wheel alignment because the inner tie rod will be able to rotate. See, this is just a ball and socket joint inside of there. and if you just put your outer tie rod on and then set everything and forget it eventually as you drive, this will turn, it'll either tighten or loosen and it could eventually unthread completely from the outer tie rod, resulting in a loss of control.

And that would be bad. So you always have to have the jam nut to lock in the inner so it cannot rotate what the assembly is installed. Spin this guy on and then set it up through the hole on the steering knuckle. Again, all this stuff is getting aligned.

This thing is going to be at the at the alignment shop at some point once we're finished here. So although that's not accurate, I got it kind of close, but there's no way that's going to fly. Long turn. Take this guy and push it on up through steering knuckle.

Do that. Give it a, push it up in there. come on. There She Goes and then we'll toss that castle nut back on.

So that's one side. Let's go put the other side together real quick. Like okay again. Tie Rod: Jam Nut: Two fingers of thread.
Oh you know what? I Looked over at that ball joint and I had completely forgotten that I'm also putting ball joints on this. so I will not be installing these tie rods on these steering knuckles. I That 100 escaped me in the moment. Dang.

Anyway, let's get this thing threaded on and in. its approximate location. Then we can go ahead and get those. uh, those hoses reinstalled.

Get on there. The threads are binding up a little bit like they go, then they go, and then they kind of catch. Yeah, right there. they catch right there.

Yep, no matter, you cross threaded it, you got me there. Okay, that's good. that's in position. Let's get the hoses on.

Max All right, we're back underneath. I Have the uh, the lines already connected. That part was boring so I just left it out. So now we're sliding that shaft back in and we'll get our bolts back through.

the collar. shaft's not in deep enough. wiggle it more there. Yeah, that's in.

Let's give it some forward clicks here with our little impact. Foreign shaft is on. Okay, let's put a little bit more torque on that guy and this section is good to go. All right.

Okay, let's get out from under here. Need to go back up top after we let the car down. we'll get our goodies out and let's refill some fluids and some refrigerant. I Think that was loud.

Oh I need to plug in my oil pressure sending unit I left that out to drip dry plug you back in. Sender: Click Okay, moving back up off the locks coming down. So while we were under the vehicle earlier, we had an arrival. Uh, this component right here is the fuel rail pressure sender.

Uh, this is the one that I believe was it's either got a leak inside or it's not giving the correct fuel pressure. but this was uh, the cause of our lean condition or our Rich coats rather so. Ah, we're also gonna get this thing buttoned up and bolted on. Uh, before we close this video out.

So I think what I'll do is we'll get the AC machine reconnected and we can pull that system down into a vacuum. since the new compressor is on. While that's happening, we can go over here and change the fuel rail pressure sensor and at some point in there. if I have a replacement I do I do have another belt we can toss that new belt on and then I have no electrons.

What has happened here? Oh I got power there and that power here I don't have power here. Okay, my machine is broken so let's switch. Let's just switch our plug to another plug location. Maybe that plug burns out.

Oh no. okay, we'll put it over here where the fan is I know that one's good. All right. Hoses back on and connected.

Get on there and become connected. Low side vacuum, high side open. Continue vacuuming 10 minutes so we're not. Let's grab our belt.

This is funny. I put a Delco belt on a Ford product. Yeah, all right. So while that thing is doing its thing, let's come over here and swap out this fuel pressure sender unit thing right here.
One connection and it's got. uh, it's like just two bolts. now. there should not be a bunch of fuel pressure in here.

It's been sitting overnight. If there is, it'll come out. Pull these guys out of here. That one's loose.

Yeah. I'm wondering if this thing has like a I mean it's Gotta Have a vacuum leak inside of it or I mean who knows I've never seen one do that, but my, uh, unless my testing was incredibly flawed I'm pretty sure I proved that that was sort of the culprit here. Let's Google this thing out some. I Hope it's not holding a boatload of fuel pressure and it sprays everywhere.

Could be bad. Don't worry if it sprays I'll Shield you guys, it's gonna twist and wiggle. What's he gonna do Come out all right. we're good.

Came right out no problem. So that's our old unit. That's our new unit. It's one, two row Rings okay and two on this one as well.

Flip that guy in, no problem. The bumper back down. one and two. That one's in the back right there.

I'm really curious to see if this solves that, uh, that lean fuel trim problem I Hope it does, because if it doesn't I have to start all over again. In which case I don't know what's wrong with it and that's a misdiagnosis. It happens, A flawed or incorrect test result that could lead to a missed Diag happens. All done.

Okay, let's plug our vacuum line back in, plug our connector back in. Let's toss that belt down real quick while this thing is still vacuuming. All right. belt coming in letter is facing us so they're easy to read.

I'm weird that way. Let's just kind of get this thing down in position and set up on all the pulleys. here. We're gonna go through this fast and I'm going to skip some of it because I mean it's just a belt, right? It's gonna go down over that ribbed pulley you can't see.

There's a hose in the way, over the ribbed one, under the smooth one over the Nader back down around the power steering and it slipped off. There we go around the power steering. Now this is the part I forgot. So we're going.

Remember, it was all kind of tangled up around that tensioner. I Think we go around the crank over the water pump and then we're gonna come through that little groove right there. That's right. Okay, pull some more slack out of it because now this little Loop right here has to go down over the compressor.

It's about right. And it came off the power steering. No worries, that's good. and I think we're ready to tension.

Dipper All right ratchet coming in to the tensioner. Hook that up and I'm gonna pull up on our slack part of the belt right here to the right. We're gonna tension, go over the alternator and then Down Under that smooth pulley and that is a successful belt install. Good to go, All right.
Machine is still evacuating for the AC. Let's go ahead. restart the engine, take a look at the scan tool, and make sure our fuel trims stay where they're supposed to be. So at this point, all the vacuum system is fully connected, even the stuff that goes back to the fuel tank and to the HVAC inside.

So theoretically there should be no other leaks. and that's according to my testing procedure from earlier. So beginning engine starting sequence: Now it's running good. Sucked up what was already in the reservoir.

Let's refill that again. Scream at us for a little while. Let's check our schedule here. see what it's got.

All right, it's pulling up. Go to engine, go to engine data Yes, running, and we're gonna go for fuel. We want fuel, fuel, fuel, emissions, and fuel continuing. Show me my fuel trims, please.

And we're looking for. Look at that fuel rail pressure 39.8 So that's a difference in earlier short-term fuel trims. We're hovering around the zeros Long terms. Look at that.

Negative Two negative, Two negative 1 on the short terms. All right. let's let this thing run and stabilize for a little while. and uh, while that's happening, we can go ahead and put the charge in this thing.

The machine is done and we're looking for two pounds, Two ounces. That's a lot. So system charge, Begin charging the system. Now please do Not save D zero 2.2 pounds high side charge and let me turn off the AC switch in there so it doesn't kick the compressor on if it's already not.

Uh oh, it's already off. Okay, we're good. All right. AC machine is charging.

Let's do one other cool little trick real fast. Let's see if this thing had a vacuum leak which is causing uh, our codes or let's see if it was actually the pressure sensing side. So what? I Want to do? Unplug it now. watch.

We're going to see a vacuum leak as soon as it's unplugged. the fuel trims. watch them go go foreign because there's a known vacuum leak. So let's plug in sensor for the vacuum source, see if it's still leaking so it's not a vacuum leak.

It was actually sensing the incorrect fuel pressure. We had a 50 psi or a 60 PSI reading earlier and come here you and now it's reading. uh, what was it 40 something? So the fuel pressure was too high or rather the ECM thought that the fuel pressure was too high. Get on there.

Okay, either way, fix the problem. That's good enough for me. Joe All right looking down so far, everything's looking good here. Need to tighten up this little bracket.

I Don't see anything leaking. Nothing dripping on the ground. The scene is about done with the charge. We'll just go ahead and fire up our AC system just to make sure that compressor comes on.

More Steam there we go. Full Speed Ahead I think I heard it. Okay, the AC clutch is engaged. see it running right there.

Good excellent. fans are on, that's all. Feel good. Low side pressure 40 PSI high side pressure it's 300 but we're coming down fast because that Fan's running all right.
This is all looking really good to my eye. So far problems have been solved. power steering, noise, shut up whole section A little over I'm gonna pull some of that out so that's good and uh, our fuel trims are back in line. I'd say this is good to go for right now.

So I'm definitely gonna have to make another part regarding the repair series of this. Uh, this particular Mustang I think we're on. that's gonna be part three because I had the Diag video. Then there was this video and then there'll be the next one coming up later on for the ball joints and some of the other components that need to be changed out in this car.

So uh, having said all that, I'm going to go ahead and close this video out right now. I will do that as always and I thank you each and every one of you guys for watching this video. Hope you like this video. I'm assuming that since we're here to the end, you did in fact like this video.

If you did like it, please feel free to communicate that to me effectively in the comments section down below. Do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there and most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day! See you guys later in the video in the Mustang into Bay City in the power steering in the belt and the transmission. Final verdict is at the center vent where we at so far we're 48 degrees. Yep, she's making cold.

We're good to go here powering down.

86 thoughts on “Engine accessory overhaul! running rich-solved! 2003 ford mustang gt 4.6”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Christopher Anderson says:

    AWE MAN! Call Ghostbusters! I’ve never attempted work on an AC system before. Glad I never did 😂

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Night bot says:

    I personally change as many A/C seals as humanly possible on my own cars if I open a system. It is good preventive maintenance.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Terry Fowler says:

    That die makes it stinks

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars stewart caldwell says:

    Ray, Quit smellin' that stuff ! You'll go crosseyed !

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mike Wright says:

    Imagine how much work he could get done if he used two hands.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Brian Wright says:

    Hi Ray. The original fault codes were for banks 1 and 2 too rich. But long term fuel trim indicated lean. Fuel trims should have been in negative numbers indicating rich conditions and no longer could adapt lean. What were the hits on identifix?

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Nick Walters says:

    Doing the world a favor. Putting ac delco on fords. You could help dodge out too

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars BassheadGTP says:

    Oliver Anthony fan? good shite. 👍 Also the oil adapter gaskets fail if engine is over heated or pressurized. hense coolant cap failure. my mark 8 did that. did someone put clear power steering fluid in it causing failure of seal?

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars George W says:

    Yes I hate it too when you get spewed on by the Green monster. Usually that happens when refrigerant is within the compressor oil. Tapping on a compressor with a hammer during recovery should solve that issue.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars S Schu says:

    Yea on the 2 pumps AC AND POWER brake/steering. I don't have a lift so all the little "engineers hate mechanics " trying to do all of it on a grease covered undercarriage sitting on 8" ramps with a slammed mustang. OH MY GOD THE HEADACH thoes 2 pumps are fluid in your hair down your arm across your armpit your back on top of THE RANDOM BLACK WIDDOWS LIVING in that area of suspension and frame holes .talk about frustrating on your first try .never worked on a mustang before learning tricks to how they are designed. You did a pretty good job of not pointing these headaches out for the at home guys&girls with no lift.anyone planning on buying a mustang and working on it yourself. I highly advise buying a tubular front crossmember it is almost a must have .I would suggest it be on the top of the list of parts to immediately swap out before anything else .with the frustration and headaches involved with working on these cars.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars preludepatrick says:

    Just curious; why didn't you turn the steering wheel lock-to-lock to bleed the power steering system?

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Anakin Palpatine says:

    My car had an oil leak… I merely called it a self oil changing system. Then I got rid of it

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars SHAWNO says:

    * I don't want to drop it * Proceeds to drop it*

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Matthew Removeafterwashing says:

    one thing. this is so painful to watch and you do this every time. 😢 You should not pray NEW orings with a metal tools, and also don't stretch them too much. Before installing a new orings you should clean the grooves where orings live. Don't force fitting dry, use some lubricant, for example silicone grease. This way, the oring don't twist or something and just sits properly… Those are things so easy and quick to do and you just don't do them 😢

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Stoney3K says:

    Did you just install that power steering rack while completely disregarding the position of the steering wheel related to the position of the rack? The new rack appeared to be turned all the way to the right.

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars William findspennies says:

    Definitely interesting and informative. I feel like I'm in Automotive repair school. Great video!

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars KENJAMIN HANSON says:

    Ray, you've been slimed by the A/C. 😂

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Charles Keller says:

    Why not take the pulley off of the new PS pump to install?

  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ray Ives says:

    When you were taking out that AC compressor, why didn't you just drop the sway bar to get it out of the way? You had to remove it anyway for the front end service.

  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dustin 556 says:

    Tools pay for your family to eat and that is the most important thing. Also you end up spending more time with your tools than your family.

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MerkDolf says:

    😄 👍👌.

  22. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Frank Thomas says:

    back in about 2000 I was doing alignments, I had several OBS gm trucks that needed caster and camber adjusted, They still had the metal knockouts in the control arm brackets, and I didn`t have the tool that removed the knockouts, so I just used punch and air hammer to remove them. I decided to buy the tool from Matco, $70, and never did another one, I still have the tool and its never been used.

  23. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Steve Hayes says:

    This would be a good unit to own at this time. The owner has done well with it and Ray has brought it to 10/10!

  24. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars mod_inc llc says:

    Have Yourselves a Fantasical Day!
    This was an example of a perfect Mechanicalistic YT Video. And should be used as an example of how to do said video correctly and for the perfecto time length. Kept interesting by multiple functions and proper like editing.
    Kudos to YOU sir!

  25. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David P says:

    Them Craftsman 3/8 Drive wrenches are now about $45 bucks.

  26. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Zachary Neel says:

    i love brake clean

  27. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Spiros Doulakis says:

    That compressor at 17 minutes in…looks like E.T. 😂😂

  28. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Matt Vose says:

    On Ford compressors, always spin that plate by hand a few times while evacuating… They will get you every time.

  29. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Gerald Ingram says:

    Good stuff

  30. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Duncan Hobin says:

    Self lubricanting. That’s why Land Rover bolts are easy to come out🤣🤣🤣

  31. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars GARDS FTW says:

    rich dicks north of Richmond good song, but they aint rich men, they are rich dicks.

  32. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Riker the Sergal says:

    Mechanics: Why put this here it makes no sense and it makes our jobs a lot harder?
    Engineer: Because F*ck you that why.

  33. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Thomas White says:

    I love Rich Men North of Richmond!!!!!! Oliver Anthony!!!!!!

  34. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Kirk Sandoe says:

    No. I got a broken nose. 😂😂

  35. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Kirk Sandoe says:

    Much easier than the 6.6 Dirtymax

  36. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Kathleen Kelly-Simpson says:

    1. Compressor spit: Dude, I'm glad I wore my hip waders today… Cause it's gettin' deep!!! Might there have been a restriction or clog that kept the system from being fully evacuated? Maybe check that filter thingy? If the compressor was leaking at the shaft, wouldn't it send debris through the lines?
    2. The background song is AWESOME!! (The Rich Men North Of Richmond)
    3. Your Craftsman tool? You just dated yourself!!!!!
    4. I was yelling at you to not connect that tie rod! What? You didn't hear my big mouth from 1300 miles away???
    Nice work Ray!!!

  37. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ivan F says:

    You know… the last time I worked on a vehicle by choice it was my dad's 2005 Grand Marquis and that car had so many stupid fasteners that were captured and could only be installed or removed by whatever was capturing them… Brake caliper bolts for example… One came out without issue. The other got wedged between the lower control arm. But only one one side. Why? I don't know. But I'm very glad I don't have to work on Ford products.

    Friend of mine has a fairly new (like 2014-ish) Lincoln MKZ and the fasteners for the brakes are convoluted. The fasteners for pretty much anything require six or so different sets of tools. You need allen, hex, torx, the other torx… Probably two sizes of each allen and hex. Honestly, it was gross just trying to get a caliper off.