Looks like both front and rear crankshaft seals are leaking oil. Lots of rust under this Nissan! Need to remove the timing belt and the transmission!
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
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“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
Hello everybody! Good day to you! Welcome back! Super glad you guys are here! I Am definitely glad to be here! I'm working on this uh 2001 Nissan Frontier I think it's got a 3.3 liter. this is the front differential and uh, miniature subframe assembly out of this particular Nissan Now the reason this is out is because this: Nissan has a bunch of oil leaks. It's got a leak from the rear crankshaft seal, it's got a leak from the front crankshaft seal and or timing cover which is part of the oil pump and it's got some small leaks around the pan and we're going to fix all those leaks now. There was another episode on this Nissan where I diagnosed some AC performance issues and we had found that the fan clutch was not Fanning very well.
so I replaced the clutch, confirmed that that was the issue with the AC and that was that This week I've got my schedule freed up a little bit. so I'm gonna go ahead and get down and dirty and get to the the really hard part which is going to be buttoning up those oil leaks. Now as you recall, I mentioned that the front crankshaft seal has a leak and that front crankshaft seal is actually part of the engine oil pump. It's going to require many, many, many hours of Labor to get to that oil pump.
and since we're all the way in there, I'm going to go ahead and change the water pump and the timing belt on this Nissan 3-3 So as I told you earlier, we've already got the front differential out of the out of the vehicle. The the transmission also has to come out because I need to get to the crankshaft seal. It is mostly been unbolted and it's prepped to come out. The drive shafts are out.
like I said, the subframes out front differentials out. So what I'm going to do next is go ahead and continue the tear down process and get a hold of this timing. uh, timing component and oil pump. The oil pan will come off simultaneously.
At some point after the pan comes off, I'll go ahead and pull the transmission out the rest of the way and then we can do that rear crankshaft seal. That's probably going to be reserved for a later video because there is loads and loads of work to do on this truck. So without any further Ado or introduction, let's go ahead and get started opening. Z Hood Yeah, gravity.
Okay, so bear with me while I catch up a little bit on this. Uh, like I said earlier in the last video, we had the uh, the fan clutch and uh, the radiator shroud out of this engine. So uh, we're out of this vehicle. so I'm gonna go ahead and pull this stuff back out one more time.
We're gonna skip past that and once I get this uh, this cooling stuff out of the way, we can start pulling the accessory drives off and then eventually we'll get to the front covers. We can pop those guys off and we'll get down into the timing components. So bear with me. Let me get this stuff apart real fast and I'll check back in with you in one minute.
Alrighty, so I've got the radiator and everything out of this. so now we can get down to the good part and start getting these accessories disassembled. We've got three serpentine belts here. They've all got to be removed. gotta loosen the alternator. The power steering pumps got to come a little. No, no, that one stays. Alternator comes loose because that's what tensions one of the belts.
There's a tensioner on this belt and then this tensioner here on this other belt. So we're gonna go ahead and pull that stuff down and then we can start pulling back, uh, the rest of the brackets and then get the covers off again. I Kind of hate to skip around so much, but it was kind of necessary. Uh, just to save extremely valuable time.
Otherwise, we would have watched like a 30 hour video. probably longer. and uh, that might be kind of boring. All right.
So there's belt number one. not even off. yet. Hang on more there.
All right. Belt Number one off. Belt Number two. We're gonna utilize this tensioner right down here.
All right. One more little bolt here. Let's get that guy loose. The way these tensioners work is there's a threaded rod that attaches to a block behind the bracket, and then that bolt bolts through the block.
So as you unthread the adjuster, it'll move the uh, the tensioner pulleys up and down and then you lock it down with the center bolts. Okay, that one's loose. Let me go in through the top right here and back off that rod. Reverse packages and belt number two becomes free.
This is Not there, Got her? We'll get a better visual of what I'm talking about. With belt number three. down here, we can see the uh, little adjuster put some light in there. There's our little adjuster.
We're gonna break that loose without breaking it off. This stuff has not been removed in a while, and then we're gonna back off this bolt right here. and that's going to slack off that tensioner. Let's get in there.
Oh yeah, it's Rusty Krusty We're gonna need some lubricant here. There we go. I Don't want to get that thing bound up and then wreck the threads on this adjuster because then we will no longer have an adjuster and that's not. Uh, not gonna work for me.
Attempt two. Okay, oh, it's loose. but I'll give it back. Come here.
give it back to me. Oh yeah. hang on. give it back there.
One more bolt right here and then that alternator will start to Pivot unclick. Oh, that wasn't bad at all. It's not even tight. Okay, now that Nader should swing.
and it does. Belts loose. let's go ahead and slide that off of our pulley if we've got enough reach. and I don't.
All right now. I Do All right. Three belts gone. Belts are off.
Let's go ahead and pull this bracket off right here. and that's going to give us more access to, uh, the timing covers a couple 12 mil bolts here. Ah, stop doing that. number two.
and I think this thing's just a bracket. Actually, hang on. Yeah, that's just a bracket. so this is going to come apart in layers. Which is fine because I just had to come off to expose this ball. here. there's one another and this whole unit should come through. Let's see what else is holding us on another bolt over here.
Good night. and I'll keep all these uh pieces of Hardware with the components. that way if they don't get lost. All right here.
Let's lose this uh, coolant hose next and it's a little metal or bracket thing. Let's get rid of that unfix and that thing should be free. I'll fry it off with a with a hose pick and then it's going to spill some coolant and then I will be sad. Whoa.
I think I just broke a flashlight I'm not poking holes in this I'm just kind of getting around the perimeter here to break up that little bond between the rubber hose and uh, in the thermostat housing. turn on some suction real fast. The fluid evacuator I'm trying to mitigate spills around here, so what? I'll do? Oh, we're good. didn't spill much.
Gooch on over and we'll pull off this bracket with this uh, either pulley tensioner pulley as well. Looks like just a couple more bolts on that one. Perhaps I can't reach more longer or 12 mils. There we go.
And here comes our second tensioner. All right. So our front Timing System is now exposed I think I've got a pole like this. uh, this little heater hose thing off I did that last time.
but then we'll be able to get this thing removed. So let's uh, let's get to work on that crankshaft real quick. that looks like it might be a bear to remove. So let's pull that guy out and then see if I can't get that thing off All right.
Half finished Milwaukee 90 degree impact. Let's see if this is going to pull this off or not. Maybe maybe not. I Hope so.
Yes, it did good. So here's the deal. If we take a look down inside of there, we can see the two little holes uh, that are there to install a puller. but I think the threads are very boogered up on those little holes.
so I may just try to pull this from the outside and see what happens. All right. So this is either gonna work or it's not. I'm going to put this crankshaft bolt in just so.
Uh, the puller has something to to push off of and I will make an attempt here to, uh, get this thing to slide off. This could be very easy and it could be remarkably difficult and we're gonna find that out in a moment. I Really do not like to do it this way because you can bend the pulleys and then ruin them and that would be bad. All right here.
we go first and only attempt to get this off because I just want it to come off and then and then we're good. Appears to be going I'm I'm watching very closely a little flange there if that flange starts to bend and I broke it. You didn't see that coming. but you know what? That's fine because I just ordered another one so let's just break it some more until it comes apart. That was about what I expected to happen I I Figured it would at least bend first. Oh well. like I say everything's reliability, especially when things are rusted to no end. Okay, round two of pulley.
breakages. let's see if I'm gonna break it a second time. What do you guys think? Probably not having a good track record with this truck already. It's got corrosion.
Yeah, this is gonna break right off. Oh yeah yeah, it broke it twice. This thing's that's this isn't cool. Let's see.
I can't really get to this from the bottom I'm trying to think of how I can get the bolts. Maybe I can run a tap inside of those holes or something because this method right here is not working all right. I'm gonna try to get a tap in those rusted holes. so I can put a bolt in those rusted holes and then maybe I can put a puller in those rusted holes.
My enthusiasm is, uh, waning quite quickly on this. incredibly fast. It's okay, as soon as we get through all the hard parts, we should be done. Okay.
tap's going in. it's good Gravity? Yeah, yeah. I know I know I should have done this from the beginning and blah blah yeah. usually these things don't disintegrate.
So I didn't feel that, uh, that was gonna be necessary. but I was wrong. Let me wrong a couple times happens. That's the the downside of risk taking.
That's really what it's all about is risk management. For example: I thought I could I could risk it and pull it off and come out successful and and I failed. It's okay. I just bought myself a more experience.
That's what we'll call it. Yeah, more experience. That's it. Perfect.
So this tap seems to be tearing up this rust with some decent efficiency. a little bit a little further in there. Well, these Shadows are getting kind of long. All right.
Okay, let's back it off. I think I've got threads here. Maybe I can get a puller on this and get this thing removed I Hope. unless uh, unless the thing breaks it the threads or pulls the threads out and then I'm up.
a creep. nasty one. Okay, so here's our puller. Here's the two bolts that are going going to run through it.
We're gonna throw those into those new holes that we just cut in the rust, thread them down, and then we'll run another threaded device in through this, and that's going to push against that crankshaft bolt. similarly to what we had attempted to do earlier and failed. Actually, I'm going to pull this bolt out I don't have enough space for that. So oh, let's see here.
this is hard to see. Can't see what I'm doing? I'm like trying to look down and in and I can't because there's stuff in the way like a car. The challenge here is getting this thing started with this weight of a puller hanging off of it. Yeah, All right.
so you gotta fail a couple times before you succeed. That's actually true. Yeah, you do have to fail a lot before you succeed. I'm going to see it. If you're not failing, you're not learning. You're not pushing yourself. If you're not pushing yourself, then you're not making any progress. So in essence, failure is actually progress Maybe to a certain degree as far as it's gonna go.
Okay, I accept that. Okay, a couple more pieces. We've got this little adapter and that's going to mate up to the front of the crankshafts now before the threaded area to push against it without any kind of damage. That's going to slip the side of this unit right here and this threads into the center of the puller as I tighten this down, it pulls the puller, then it pulls the bolts, and then the bolts pull on the pulley and hopefully pulling the pulley off of the crankshaft.
Fingers crossed. This is hard to do There's Nothing fits including my phangies. Okay, little spiky devices on there. It's in the crank.
Okay, where everything's looking. everything's looking aligned. fingers crossed. There we go.
Is it gonna come off? I'm not going to pull threads out. Yeah, we're good. Beautiful. More speed I lose because I broke it.
You know that nasty falling out of there? Seriously. Okay, we need to get uh, this little crossover hose thing out of the way. I Believe that's some kind of a EVAP system or PCV system type of deal. Anyway, I'm just going to disconnect this thing from the air box here and uh, we'll pull that little guy aside.
so let's wiggle these guys out. Nothing major, it's just some stuff that's in the way. so let's get it out of the way. Yeah, here we go.
Okay, it's mostly free. There's one more clamp. uh, back on them. the uh.
the valve cover back here. Let me reach in and get that guy off and this little hose crossover PCB deal is out of the way. There we go. This thing out progress.
We have access now. Uh, to these upper covers. a series of eight millimeter bolts around the perimeter. These guys are going to come off and that's going to expose our engine timing components once we get that stuff out of the way.
I Can uh I can lose my my boat here giving back my socket here Anyway, once we get all that stuff out of the way, I'll pull the water pump and then we'll pull the oil pan. and then I can pull the oil pump because we want to replace the seal on the oil pump due to a leak and since we're going through all this, why not? Yes, I could put a seal in it, but at the mileage of this thing is at and the age that it is at, we're just going to put a new pump in it. Oh, a long one. There's one right there hiding.
I Think that's all my stragglers. Nope. one more down here hiding. There's two, uh, two sections to this cover.
an upper and a lower and another hiding around you. Okay, there's our upper cover and I think oh, there's one. cover is now free. Bye! So down here on the crank, there's a bunch of oil from that seal leaking and I need to wash that off because I'm looking for the mark on the front of this pulley so I can get this thing in time. so then I may remove the component. I'm going to wash off all this nasty and hopefully I can find that little Mark that's down there. Give it a good wipe down here I'm not seeing it. Where are you little Mark Oh, is that it? Yeah, there it is.
All right. Found the mark. That's good. All right.
It's actually pretty close where it's supposed to be. I've got a mark right here on this cam sprocket. There's another Mark right here on the others can of sprocket and they both have a little dimple on the cover right there that they're supposed to line up with so this one's close, that one's closed I just need to back this crankshaft off just a couple degrees. Let's go back this way and get those all lined up right there.
I didn't pull up specs I'm actually doing this for memory from the last one that I did. This is interesting. This timing belt is stretched and I can prove it with the marks. Yeah, so I've got this one right here lined up on its Mark Okay, I'll show you if we take a look.
see the little dimple right there right right there that lines up with that little dimple right there. Okay, see how we're in line Now The other side is also supposed to be in line but if you look we can see, there's the there's a little Dot and there's The dimple right there. See it right right there. It's kind of shiny.
You can see we're about a like a quarter of a tooth off. Tells me that there is in fact stretch in this belt so that's good. And and yeah, the dimple down here is lined up also. Anyway, now that we've established that we do in fact need to replace this belt, let's continue our disassembly.
All right. Now all that we have this thing approximately in time we can go ahead and pull this belt out of here and uh, lose the tensioner and all that good stuff. We come unclicked. Oh, that's tight.
gonna need a bigger ratchet, more leverage. Let's try this. There we go. that's better.
Get that thing to come loose okay and we'll slide this belt off of here. Come on. Belt We don't have all day pry bar. Nah, we don't need to get that aggressive.
We'll just go screwdriver or a Torx driver rather see how that tensioner twist pull that guy off. Good to go. Now we can slide this belt out of here. Let's go ahead and pull the nut off and the tensioner assembly is going to come out.
Washers are going to fall off and the spring is going to come with it. There we go. Okay, we've got a few 12 mil bolts and I think I can get this uh, water pump out of here. Gonna need a swivel wobblies? Pull that guy out.
There's just a few perimeter bolts on this uh, water pump I believe it comes out without pulling the oil pump out I think I don't remember I haven't done a whole boatload of these particular engines the last one there I think that's the last one. No no no I can't see any more. Let's find out. Give it a tap tap here. Yep, let it ride. No spillage crane pan. That's why I said no spillage. Okay, here's our ginormous water pumping assembly.
Gaskets look like junk. So since we appear to be smooth sailing, let's pull this crank bolt back out because I need to get this sprocket off because when uh, we have bolt this oil pump, it's gonna slide off of the crankshaft. Oh look at that. It came right off very much unlike the last one.
Cool the last one. I had to get behind it with a hammer and chisel and work the thing apart. It did not, did not want to come out freely. Get those Woodruff keys are going to pop out of there Yes, nose.
They're like a half moon shaped piece of metal. I'd like to get it out without breaking it or gouging it up or knurling it or scratching it or anything like that. Again, these have to go in order for the oil pump to pass over the crank. A little bit of chisel action.
here. it comes okay. there's one of them and key number two. come out.
Here it comes. Oh I Almost dropped it. Okay, we've got this little bracket right here to remove. and then we have to go down below and start pulling that oil pan oil pump.
where it's oil pump off. So let's fish this guy out. I'll get you later. Yeah, I'm pretty sure this Nader is going to be in the way, so I'll just take that off too.
kind of slide that off to the side. enter a pry bar. let's slide that over. That's probably enough.
All right, Okey-dokes Let's go ahead and get this thing up in the air. and then we can get the oil pan off. and then once the pan is off, we can come back over here and pull these front bolts off the pump. and then we'll pluck that pump off the front of the block.
Back up. Green subscribe button. Alrighty, down below. let's see, we've got a few bolts left in the pan.
Most of them are actually out already. We did that earlier. so I just need to finish unbolting this pan, drop this thing down, and then, uh, and then we'll get to that oil pump. All right.
So we're over here on the right hand side of the vehicle, looking up at the oil pan. Transmission is right here. on your left, right to the left, of that socket. I'm pulling these oil pan bolts.
The engine oil has already been drained and we're just gonna pop these bolts out of here and get this pan out of the way. Definitely need wobblies here. we go get all these guys. Zipped out.
Several of them on the other side are already out. as I just mentioned, there you go. Okay, so I just took a lot look around. On the other side, it appears that all those bolts are gone.
It also appears that this pan has been resealed. Once Upon A Time Um, and there's a lot of sealant on there so this might be actually hard to break loose. I'm gonna try to get behind it here. uh with the price with the pry bar and just kind of tap that in between the pan and the block to create a separation. Hope I Don't break it. I should be okay. it's not a crankshaft pulley. I'm gonna get in there or not.
yeah, that thing's in there all right. Wow. Okay, uh, let's try it from the front side because going it, going at it from the side is not going to work. So we're going to pry bar.
give this little hole right here. We're gonna watch it through this little hole right here. and I'm gonna try to get it broken loose at that corner like right right about there. Okay, we've got there's the pry bar right there on the silicone on our sealant.
Come on. now we're gonna go. Are we doing this? Uh I don't know if we're doing this. That thing's really glued on like big time.
I'll give it some more. Oh did it come loose? Yeah, it did. All right. Cool.
We're getting there. let me move over and try the other side and then, uh, that thing should come free. Let's go over here, take my pry bar back and we'll get it. Uh, right on that same corner on the other side, right through here.
So close. Come on, you get this pry bar out. and maybe I can pry it from right around here somewhere. I Mean it's loose.
It's just really hung up. There's more of that glue holding it on. Yeah, what we need is just more down pressure. Let's try some, uh, some curvy, angular pry bar here.
If I can just get under that fry the appropriate amount of down pressure, it'll start to separate that sealant. Yeah, yeah, here it comes a little bit more. Come out so close. let's try it from the side.
Yep. and now it's breaking free. Okay, I'm gonna have to lower or remove this. uh, the steering arm right here.
It's not coming down enough to to clear it. Hang on back up I need to I need to rethink what uh, what's going on here. All right. here's what we're gonna do.
since. uh, since I'm putting a steering gear in this thing later on. Anyway, due to this very large leak that it has, I'm just going to pull this Pitman arm off right now and we'll drop that down and that should allow this linkage to fall down far enough. where I can get that oil pan out so we're busting out the big socket.
It's actually like a three-quarter inch. Drive but uh, I'm using an adapter that should be good. Unclicks tongue. Okay, level Two impacts.
We'll use the new magic gun. the Cobalt from Lowe's pneumatic gun. Got it all right? Let's go ahead and get a puller on this thing. It's pretty crusty Rusty so we need to, uh, cross our fingers here.
Hope this works. Here we go. Okay, let's try this again. Pneumatic Impact: Ah, foreign there now.
I got it? Wow. Okay, so Pitman arm is removed and I'm gonna have to pull the idler to drop this down enough to get that pan off. This job is hard. Okay, off to the passenger side. Let's Lose the uh, the Pitman arm next. but we're not gonna lose it. I've broken enough stuff, but let's try to unbolt it all right. Idler arm? not Pitman arm.
Okay, pry this guy down. Slide that off. It's a little bracket shaft just a little bit now. I Can get that pan out of there I Think you're gonna come out? Come on Pan: Yeah! okay.
I Think it's gonna come out now. Loose? Come on. Worst oil pan ever. There we go.
Oh that's not so bad. Yeah, got it all right. Now that the pan is out of here, we can pull these bolts for, uh, the pickup tube. get these guys disconnected and then we'll go back up top and pluck that oil can out of there.
That's the band. Couple twelves and there should be one. There's two on the side over there. Let's get in here.
Get these last two guys out. I mean I can get the pan out right now. but I'm gonna go ahead and take this tube off and clean it up. It's got a lot of nasty on it.
so aside from all this uh, sealant and stuff that's on here that I've got to scrape off, we're done down here. so uh, let us run back up top and uh, finish removing that oil pump. We've got just a couple more 10 mils in this oil pump and uh, we can pull this thing out of here I think I hope I Hope I think probably yeah I lied there's a 12 mil right there. Almost get rid of that 12.
that's a long one. I believe that's all of them. Let's get behind this with some pry bar and uh, pulled away from the Block see what happens? Hang on we're missing uh with something holding it in? it's our hidden bolt sure is right here. There's one hiding.
It's okay. we'll dig her out of there. Got it? Got a sneaky little bugger? How about now you're gonna come loose. Yeah, it's moving.
Just wiggle it. cry it, and wiggle it. and wiggle it and fry it. There we go.
One oil pump with leaking crankshaft seal. Oh yeah. Alrighty, this thing stripped down guys. We're in good shape I need to do a lot of prep work I got to clean up all these gasket surfaces above and below.
and uh, we'll go ahead and unbox our parts, get everything put together, and then we can begin the reassembly process with this particular, uh, segment of this repair. There's other stuff we're doing to this truck, but we're gonna do one thing at a time. one operation at a time. Rather that way, we don't have the entire truck disassembled all over the floor and all over the shop.
So anyway, before I begin rambling, all that stuff is gonna have to take place in a future video. We are out of time for today. So uh, that being said, as always, thank you guys for watching this video. Hope you enjoyed this video and this particular Nissan 3.3 liter Frontier If you did enjoy this video, you know what to do. Let me know about that by tapping that like button down below. Drop me a comment or two while you're down there. And most importantly, do not forget to have yourselves a great day! See you guys later in the transmission.
OMG How much SMURF BLOOD was used in the making of this car!
A little taste of what Eric O has to go through on a daily basis on this one!
I wouldn't put all that money/work into that old junker, just crush it.
Hey Ray as a rule of thumb, Japanese vehicles use 8,10,12,14,17.19.21 & 22 mm spanners & sockets for most fastners.
I enjoy your videos tremendously.
Wow Ray that job looked very hard to work on. It looks easy when you do it. Thank you Raynor showing this
I use to have 2000 Frontier 3.3 V6 and now have 2005 Tundra 4.7 V8.
I'm a mechanic and I'm amazed how much more complicated was to work on front of that
V6 compared to Tundra V8.
Tons of things to get off!!! Fortunately there are hundreds of "counselors" to point the errs out!!😂😂
im good with a 30hr video ….😁
Such a waste of labor n resources for what amounts to at most some sweat n maybe the size of a dime oil leak…and this? Is is? Considered a oil leak?? How much we soaking this chump I mean customer for….boat payment due???
RAY YOUR A HORSE OF A MAN
Get you a good putty knife to break the oil pan seal
If that pulley broke so easily, it likely was near breaking on its own, so was it really a bad thing?
👍🔧👍
it is blue so you know it is good!
How many hours was billed on this job?
Black Room Temperature Vulcanization is strong!
What do you get when you didn't get what you wanted?
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EXPERIENCE
I thought I was wrong one time,
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but I was mistaken!
who here would love to watch a 8 hour video of Ray basically taking a complete engine apart piece by piece and reassembling it for instructional value.
Omg the macarana! 😂
i’m new to mechanics but why was the water when you pulled the pump blue?
Damn man, that was a mission, Engineers ay!😂
Sorry, but are you building a new car here?🤣
"Failure is not an option – it is mandatory. The option is whether or not to let failure be the last thing you do." –Howard Tayler
Just tell the customer that they needed a new crank shaft pulley as the old one was too rusty / weak 😂
I think you really have to love your work to let that one in the door.
No Ray the video is long enough. Considering the extra time it takes to record your actions and the all the editing and uploading time. Your earnest and appreciative fans may demand more and more until you are reduced to a husk. Take care.
You really should look into a topside creeper. I suspect that such a thing would come in very handy on jobs like this
Owner must be quite fond of his Nissan – a lot of professional work to do on that '01!
Don’t kick yourself too hard over breaking that crank pulley, I would say it was due for replacement anyway by virtue of the fact that it broke. Better for it to come apart in the shop than on the road.
And as for video length, I don’t mind longer videos, I could watch you work all day now that I know you’re actually enjoying your work.
ugh , hate jobs that take forever
Remind me to Never get a car like that!!!!! Love your work and how you keep positive….
Hey Macarena
I've never seen Blue Coolant !
I guess the big question here is – a 2001 Nissan Frontier/Navarra – is that amount of work really justified?
rainman that was great video lot stuff to pull of nissain awesome to watch
You should be using oil or a spray but that's not like you as I've seen from your videos along with clean and shiny parts when reinstalling parts.
I said to myself, Ray don't put that puller on there, bet you won't do that again. Notice a lot of rust and corrosion on vehicles in your shop. Good work mate.
Pulling out all the tools for this one.!! Outstanding!!
Seized parts oh great
Cheers from Nova Scotia
Hopefully this truck does not have any thrust washer walk. Would suck to do all of this to have it leaking in 1k miles again!
What a pig of a job. It's fighting you every step of the way and everything is in the way of everything else. You are a patient man.
Fantastic, Sugar Ray!!!!!
My friend, I am soo thankful to watch you tackle obstacle after obstacle. You give me hope that I might be able to accomplish just 2% of what you do. You are the definition of determination and courage. Thank you.
near the end of the video, I'm still wondering what the deal is with the BLUE engine coolant…
Are those 1/4” or 3/8” inch wobblies that you use and where did you get them?
For everything you have to remove to fix the leaks you could easily drop the motor out the bottom and fix it on an engine stand and or cradle.
Spending 30 plus hours on this vehicle. Is it worth it?
Linoleum Knife works to sep oil pans it's a keep one in your toolbox tool ( knife with an inside curved edge)
Hey Ray, how far is ur lift uprights from ur shelving on the smaller lift? U back a bunch of vehicles in to work on the engine bay, cuz not enough room. Putting up a garage here soon, and want as much room behind as possible but yet don't want to have to back vehicles on. Figure ur input way more valuable.than most. Or comment world people if u have experience too feel free to pipe in…plan on working.on cars the next 30 yrs in garage I'm finally building, so want it right. Thanks!
Never buy a Nissan
Why is the anterfreeze blue ?
I thought I was wrong once, but I was mistaken.
Eric O. must have sent y9ou that gem!
get some upper radiator mounts!
In hindsight probably would have been easier to pluck the motor.(considering the extra work to be done).
With labor at $150 hr, is it worth all that work on old truck?
Snap on rethreading set is worth its weight in gold
You should utilize timelapse’s more often, especially when you skip or don’t film steps.
Shocking how many different tools you need own in order to do this kind of work.
How can one be so focused on mechanic work with the Macarena on in the background!?
🥰❤🇵🇭👍🤘
I love your zen Kung Fu master words of wisdom.
Thank you.
Just curious as to why you would replaced the oil pump just because the seal was leaking? High mileage? I have replaced many frt main seals and not the oil pump assembly. Or was that your quote to replace oil pump, T-belt, oil pan and rear main seal?
I'd hate to see what the bill on a job like this would cost
It's a Nissan, they leak! Kinda like my Jeep Cherokee xj!!
First thing I notices were those crusty salty battery posts and said NOOOOOoooooo. They need to be SHINY!
I'm thinking it was easier to change a rotor system transmission on a 60's era Coast Guard Sikorski HH52a Seaguard amphibious helo (the one in my avatar) than what he's going thru on that truck.
Yes, I've did that 40 feet off the ground on a big yellow rolling work stand back in '78.
Lots of thanks to Poleroid cameras keeping track of where everything went back on when we pulled the new one outta the transport can.
Fun time.
Helo Chief bought us several rounds when we finished at our favorite watering hole in Traverse City Michigan.
Ray's got a lot more pain in the a#@ doing this job.
With the hours for this repair and it still does not take care of the bearings and valve train, wouldn’t have been easier and more economical for the long term to just drop in a remanufactured engine?
Ray that 1/2 rigid is one the best tools I copied from you , that thing truly is a beast but I was surprised it didn't take that pitman arm nut off.😮
Quick torch along the pan gasket heats the silicone up just break the seal .Works awesome
When something breaks like the pulley and it's not your fault, who pays for the replacement?
Ray says My Shadows getting Long…what the hell does that mean we're going to have 6 more weeks of Winter?
You weren’t wrong about the method to remove that pulley, you were only mistaken about being correct.
Whoever owns this pick up really likes it, I wouldn't put that much money into that beater.
I think that pulley needed to be replaced anyway. I can watch you for long periods of time, but the metal band in the background is getting on my nerves. I think I'll catch up with you next time.
hey ray, two questions. one how come you didnt lock down those cams before releasing tension on the belt? do you not have to worry about those ones turning when they are in time? and how long did this job take ?
Someone loves this lil truck. Curious about how much Reee charged on this one.
Outstanding
So, just curious, are all Nissans this hard to get along with? I mean it seems like they run great until they don't, and then, they really don't.
Also, Thank you for showing the frustrating parts as well as the triumphs. It's good for average Joes to know why they're paying what they're paying for these repairs.
(for those in the comments saying, just make a longer video, there's the hours put into filming, then there's the other hours put into editing and uploading. A man might like to say hi to his family once or twice a week)
Pulley puller jaws go behind the pulley not where you had it that's most likely why it broke the Way it did
i have not seen anything like that Ray the sump not coming off in the 70 yrs of my life mate lucky car owner you have saved his car
Hey macarena lol 😅😅😅
Hey Ray… if I was doing this job there would be all kinds of extra parts left over in the end. Glad you can keep track of everything!
I was getting serious deja vu on this job from the last one of these you did. These older Nissans might be cheap but they are surprisingly reliable.
Hope this frontier isn't more than 185,000. They all seem to die around that mileage. Engine cylinder crack are common around 185,000 -190,000 miles.
So without edit cuts this would've been a 30hr video, that translate into a 30hr job, which means it's good thing you work for $25.00/hr!!!!!!!!!!
I like these hard jobs especially when I'm on this side of the screen, also I would've really been surprised if that crank pulley came off by the way that gear puller was on in the first fatal attempt……
Why pull pitmanarm and idler? Just pull the center link.
27.04 was anyone else doing the Macarena ? I was ….Hey Macarena 😂
How the f**k do these people do this and know what to do. I am amazed.
One Million, One Million, One Million!
use an air hammer to vibrate the pulley off. i done that plenty of times and it words easy peasy
The new project jeep. I like these in depth vids where you really get into it.