Hello there viewers! Good day to you and welcome back! Glad you guys are here! I'm super glad to be here. a little tired I Was here late last night. Uh, ended up taking a small job and it turned into a huge ginormous job which then spilled over into the next day because I was in a hold up waiting for wheel bearings they have since arrived. I Got some on the floor over there.

There's two more over there on top of my rolly cart. Quick recap: we were working on my 2007 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 Duramax Approximately 240 000 miles on the odometer. Uh, after our parts hold up, I changed gears a little bit and went forward to the front of the truck. I rebuilt the Uh the front brake system including a new hub bearing I tossed a new axle in it.

This is from previous repair, previous repair, previous repair. so I've pretty much got a full front end rebuild with the exception of my lower control arms. I'll do those later. they're actually on the floor in a box over there.

Regardless, I'm off on a tangent: I've got the front's done, left front's all set up, the right front is in good condition. We're nearly ready to pressure bleed this. However, since I've got parts now, I'm going to come back around to our rear axle. It's a full floating rear axle with dual rear wheels.

I've got the bearings for the hubs like I said multiple times I need to go ahead and repress those in. We'll get the rears reassembled, put back on, and then we'll head over to the BG brake power flush machine, exchange all the brake fluid in the unit and then maybe I can get the wheels back on this and get it back on the ground and out of the shop because I've got other work to do and my side project uh, was not really on my schedule this week. so without any further Ado An introduction let's get going happening! Z Hood All right guys, we're moving on to one of the hubs here. I've got one big race to press out.

The other race has already been removed when we took the bearing out because it was a captured bearing. I'm just gonna get on this thing with a pry bar right here and knock this race out. It's gonna come out this way so we need to flip this Hub over like so we can get in there with a pry bar and just knock it out with a hammer. I Realize it's kind of dark in that hole, so uh, bear with me here.

We're gonna get through this as quickly as possible. It's going to take this thing and snack it out with a hammer on the end of our pry bar here. Loud noises. it's moving.

a lot of movement at that time and I believe she's out. there's our race. Give this Hub a good wipe down, get rid of all that old grease and nonsense in there. We'll head up to the press and get our new bearings and whatnot pressed in.

Well, Races? All right. we've got the Hub hanging out in the Press Here is our new race. We're gonna drop that in and what I'm going to do is use the Uh the old race to help push it down. Let's move this over some.

Here's our old race right here. Let's give it a good wipe down and set that down right on top. Then I'll get one of my plates in here that'll press down evenly on the race if I can get it all lined up just right there. we go good and can I fit another shim in.

That's a negative. Go ahead and press just like this. I'll get a partial press in on it first and then uh, we'll re-shim it later on. You'll get this thing centered a little bit better right there.

Watch right here. You'll watch this race start to press down into the other one. Here we go, Sliding right in, no problem, nice and smooth. it's even it's not going sideways.

Food and that one's in. So far, so good. I'll stick the old bearing in there just to shim that race. It's going in very easily so I don't feel that there's risk of exploding the Uh the bearing using it as a fresh chin.

I Do have a bearing press and I could beat this in with a hammer. but since we're on the Uh on the Press I figured why not? Yeah, here's the that's the actual bearing press that fits this one. but I'm not going to use it I used it on the other one. try something different this time.

let's press. do it going down. Yep, there she goes. Oh, it's running a little bit sideways.

We just move this bearing over some right about there. continuing the Press Okay, it's in that's aligned. we're bottomed out going back up. Pull that guy out and I need to I'll have to knock this one out with a hammer.

It went into the bore a little bit. No worries. Okie Dokes Our driving race has been removed. There's our new one installed.

Let's uh, let's set this thing back in here and we'll set the the other outer bearing down inside of the bore and then press that in. Now if you remember earlier, these, uh, these outer bearings had that, uh, that big C-clip that held the race in. So what we need to do is, we've got to drop this bearing down in and then we'll set this race down, press it. Then we have to install the clip and then flip the whole assembly over and press it down until this right here meets the uh.

the snap ring. I was calling it a C-clip It's a snap ring that way. This is pressed up firm against the snap ring. So when we install the axle nut on the outside, It presses the bearing and shims up the uh, the race.

or it takes up the space between the Uh, the bearing and the race. Rather so, we have to set the bearing in place and then press the race and it's kind of annoying. see how? that's kind of working because it won't go in from the other side so that has to sit in place. and then, uh, we'll press that race down into its bore now.

I've got to use the Uh A press for that one. I've got a got a bearing press device right here. so what we do is set that guy down on top of the race, get it all nice and lined up down there please. I Said please get on there.

hang on here. Seriously, there. Stay that down right there. It looks good.

We're eyeballed. We're lined up. looks good to my eye. Let us begin the pressing procedure.

See what I've got for a stem here? Not that one looks like I'm using the Uh piece of Steel Also, put that one in there. It's got to be centered perfectly. So I'm doing my best to eyeball it, making it just right. We'll hold it right there.

The first couple millimeters of this press are critical because if that race goes in sideways, it's going to lock in and we'll have to press it back out to straighten it out. And uh, that would be bad beginning to press action. Now it's going in, feels smooth and we bound up a little bit. It's a little sideways, so we'll scoot that over, scoot that over, try again.

Yep, it's going in. It's definitely aligned now. going down a little farther and it stops. Let me check on it.

If we go too far, we can actually crush the basket on the bearings and that would be not okay because then we'll ruin the bearing and I'll have to do all this all over again. Okay, it's not fully seated yet. You can see that the bearing is now captured. I've got a oh, how much more do I have to go.

maybe 3 8 of an inch. Okay. set this guy back down in there and need to center it. I'm eyeball centering it close enough here and one more good sized shim right here there we go.

I Like this better than the plate because if it goes off center I can just move it over some and then redirect the pressure. Oh yeah. Continuing feeling good now the moment that it stops, which means we've probably gone a little too far. That's our stop.

See what it's looking like in there? I Don't see the groove just yet. We need to go a little farther. Okay, a little bit farther. I Know exhilarating content.

Isn't it watching the uh bottle jet push metal into metal? There we go. That's it. Hope so. I Dislike doing press work.

It's boring. Okay, we're looking good in here. We can see the groove down in there just on top the race way way down there now. I Can go ahead and get that snap ring installed.

Okay, here comes our snap ring. Let's get this guy. Down In the Hole Here, let's get it prepped on the pliers without smashing the flanges or pinching them. Oh, come on, get in there please.

it's inverted. There we go. Down In the Hole past the first race into the groove, you guys can't see. my apologies.

There we go. That's in the groove. Okay, now if you look real close and I don't know if you guys can see it on the camera here, but there is a gap right here between the race and that snap ring. Now the back of that race needs to be flush against the snap ring.

So we're going to take this back to the press and we're gonna press on the back side of this bearing just to, uh, just to push that race back down and then seat it against that snap ring. It'll just take very light pressure and it's only going to move ever so slightly. But we have to do it. We'll use that guy right there.

It's perfect. Set that up right here under the Press. There we go and bring that down. make some contact looking good, foreign looking, pretty good.

Yep that Gap is closed up no problem. The way we can test that is we'll try to, uh, compress that snap ring with the snap ring pliers. If I can't get it to move, then there's pressure on it from the bearing race. Oh see that? see how it moved? it's not in Far Enough One more time on the Press we just need like a 30 second of an inch.

I think that was it. Maybe that one? Yep, that was it. Feels pretty good. Let's back it off.

One last re-check with the snap ring pliers that we can get the seal driven and installed. which is awesome because I did not want this job to take as long as it did. but that is the way. Snapper and pliers going in and ah good.

There's pressure on the snap ring from the bearing race. Okey-dokes that's all set. Let's take where's my other big bearing for the outside here. the one that goes here.

Where's that guy? I Lost it I Found it. Yep, that's my new one. It's got dust on it already. It's a timpkin bearing.

Let's throw some grease on it and then we'll drive the seal. now. we uh, we don't need to load this up all crazy with grease because it will get lubrication from the uh, the differential and the diff oil. However, an initial break in it couldn't hurt just to have a little bit of grease on these rollers.

That way they don't run dry for you know x amount of time because it will take a moment for the differential to fling all that grease up and have it make its way into the axle tube and then have it. uh Wick its way down and then saturate these bearings. So in order for uh to buy some time until that happens I Like to throw some grease on these. couldn't hurt.

Yeah, that's good and I'll go ahead and reach down and pack the inner bearing with just a slight bit of Grease too so you guys can't see what I'm doing. but I'm sliding this along into the rollers. Yeah, I guess I could have greased that before installing it. However, I like to blow these out and break clean them after a press just in case little metal shavings end up flaking off.

I wouldn't want that floating around and contaminating everything. There you go. Okay, there's our seal. again.

It's a two-piece moving seal. This is a little stiffer than the other ones. See the inner ring stay stationary, the outer ring will turn, set that in place, and then we'll just drive that in with a dead blow. I Mean I could do it in the Press but man, this works.

Get in there, my cart is flexing too much. Let's do it on the floor. it'll be more easier Go away You're not done yet. You know this book times out at like nine hours.

You know that right? But it's just I don't know one o'clock I mean I'm gonna beat the clock on it unless I've ruined this seal There We go to miss and just to help this thing get uh seated onto the axle, I'll put a little bit of lubrication on the inside of that seal right there. That way it can slide easily as I put it on over top the axle. There we go, wipe off the extra. don't need that.

Now we can get down to the nasty business of getting that wheel bearing on your, uh, brake rotor. wheel bearing brake rotor. Let's get the brake rotor pressed in. All right right about there.

That's decent light for us to see. Now what we need to do is set our rotor on top of this guy right here, lining up the holes with the holes that are in the hub. We're gonna drop down all the wheel studs. get these guys, uh, down into their homes.

We'll drive a minute first with a hammer and then we'll drive them in with the impact driver because it's going to take a lot of impacts to get these things to spline in right there. Okay, so I've got a big punch here. It's gonna go around, get these things started and we'll hit him with the air hammer. run them down.

Plus then we can finally get this thing back together Hammer 30. we're gonna need some air Let's fire up the compressor air hammers coming in. I'm gonna run these guys down one at a time. Thank you.

Another one. All right. That's all of them. Made him one last time.

All right. Good to go. Got him. Okay, so we've got one.

Hub New bearings, new seal, and new rotor. Very good roro. It's not shiny. Get my fingerprints off here there now.

it's really shiny. All right. Big giant. Hub Rotor assembly sliding in.

Go. Let me line up the parking brake shoes here. Give that thing a twist. Okay, now the seal is holding us up.

Let's get in the way. I Can't push that in any farther. Yes! so all I really need to do here. Wipe this dust off I Don't want that.

Take the dead blow. Just tap it on, see, move a little bit more. It's a lot like a dead blow. I'm not going to hurt anything by hitting it with a hammer because not metal.

it's rubber. It won't ruin the surface. Very good. Okay now I think that's seated all the way.

Maybe it is. Maybe it isn't. So what? I'll do next. We're going to take our locking nut.

It's gonna thread onto those threads on that axle. we're gonna thread this guy on and we're gonna tighten it down super tight. It's not going to stay super tight because all it's doing is pre-loading the bearings. and if it's super tight, it'll just smoke the bearings and that would not be good here.

I'll use this little punch to help me. let me turn this thing that way. I Don't cut my finger on these little sharp edges here. So what? I'm going to do Tighten that down all the way as far as it goes.

like a lot. Then I'm going to take that same chisel and tighten it some more. I'm actually going to over tighten this. It's going to put constant pressure on the bearings and uh, and on that seal.

Yeah, we're starting to stop right here now. I'll give it a few more wax with the dead blow. see if it tightens up anymore a little bit. now.

we're real tight. Dead blow it again. Stop that. Try it one more time.

I Think we're good here. Yep, that's good now. I Need to back it off. We're not super tight.

See that at this point we can take our little locking key, put that thing back in right there, and then we'll put our clip back over it and that's going to retain that uh, little locking key. Come on clip. push that on all the way. Good to go.

We've got some slight freeload. not enough to, uh, make it tight, but enough to reduce any slack that's going to be in the bearings. This is all set. Let's clean this guy up.

I'll throw some sealant on this because I don't have gaskets for. uh, get out of there. I don't have gaskets for this little plate here. Those are long gone and I've never ordered new ones.

I Just throw some some sealant on there and we're good. So let's go ahead. I'll blow this out real quick and then we'll put the axle tube back in axle shaft. Loud air noises.

Good. These fingerprints are bothering me. Let me unfingerprint this thing. There we go.

Nice and shiniest. Okay, let's move in a little bit closer. I'm going to go ahead and get some sealant on the surface right here. What are you doing? dude.

Real thin. oh okay. real real thin layer here. Why are you laughing at me? Oh, you're weird.

You're as weird as I am and that's that's saying something. Yeah, a little bit of sealant down here. We go a little bit more right there. Let's wipe out anything in the center.

These surfaces are. They're so flat that we really don't need a lot here. Just a thin little layer. There we go.

Okay here you guys back up. out of the way. Some got our axle shaft coming in. Clean that out.

It's all a little, uh, little piece dangling shaft going. Ah, there's an air on it. I Don't want hair in my rear end. This is weird.

The back side of this uh axle shaft has also been cleaned. Look another hair. Wow. there we go.

Get that thing to spline in, Begin sliding in now please. There we go. Line up the bolts bolt holes. There we go.

I Didn't see this fully yet until I Got a couple of the bolts started because that thing's going to hang down and if I seed it, it'll come back off and then smear that sealant downwards and then to potentially cause it to have a void and it could leak. And I don't want it to leak. There we go. Incoming impacting kicks.

Oh brushed motor, smell the brushes in this thing. Hmm. Here we go. Beautiful.

All right folks. We're coming into the home stretch I've got my uh. left rear caliper. It's loaded and prepared.

Let's get this thing hung and we'll get that hose transferred over and we're gonna be in good shape here. After that, all we've got to do is power bleed this thing, throw the wheels on and go test drive it. It's burnish in our new brakes. This is our second bolt down at the bottom.

you guys can't see. There we go. That one's threaded Beautiful. Now remember there's no space here for an impact so we just got to do this one with the Uh the ratcheting wrench manual.

Style Wrong way, right way. Does this thing have a chipped tooth? What is this? There we go. Let's hang off of it a little bit. wheel spacer gravity put some torque here.

There we go and uh in the bottom one as well. Then we can move on to that hose. Got the new one here that also arrived I Was waiting on that yesterday. waiting on everything yesterday.

shop took a longer than I thought. but that is the way. Okay, this one's tightish. Finalize: Click.

There we go. That's good. Almost done here. Let's get this hose disconnected and removed.

Got some uh, ratcheting style hose clamp pliers. See how these things? Uh, how these guys work? I Just got these not long ago I haven't used them yet. Oh, they actually do. Look at that.

It's a ratcheting line wrench. That's freaking cool. How about that? Look at it. Go nice.

I Like this thing. we made these Imperial and Imperial I got a whole set of them. I've never used them before. Anyway, the line's off.

Let's get our clip out and get our new hose attached and then we'll transfer. Uh uh, we'll attach the post to the new caliper. That's what I was trying to say. Okay, let's get a hold of this clip right here.

Wiggle this thing out. Come on out Here we go that's removed and pull our line out our hose rather and we'll slip the new one in. How's that thing? Get indexed? We're leaking leaking fluid. Um, there we go.

That's it. Thread this guy in so the leak stops the clip on so it stays here. we go. and I can tighten this again with the ratcheting line wrenches.

Whoever Thought of this was a genius. See how that works? Oh, it's starting to twist. The line must be tight. Yep, Okay, let's move over here to the front side of the caliper and we can go ahead and get this hose installed before all my fluid leaks out.

Okay. Pull the plug out of the new caliper that keeps moisture and dirt and whatnot out of there. Pull that guy out. Now we're gonna have to.

uh, recover the dingo fitting from the old caliper here. Yeah, Turn this guy up. Unbolt that thing. You can't see what I'm doing.

There we go. Yeah, we need the fitting out of this. I have new, uh, new washers. but I don't have a new fitting.

so I've got to reuse this one. Be here. How are we gonna fit? Is that gonna fit? Yeah. Burr through the hole around the fitting in the caliper just like so and we'll knock it down.

Click. Good to go. Alrighty folks, now is the Moment of Truth I've got the the rear brakes on. Finally! new bearings uh, enters and outers, new seals, new rotors, calipers, pads, rotors, hoses.

all three hoses including the one in the center that's both sides up front. Again is we've got a hub bearing assembly with ABS speed sensor, new hoses both sides, calipers, pads, rotors and it Just to top it off, I changed out those two front axles Yes! I reinstalled the sway bar link. We are nearly complete. The only thing left here for me to do is popping easy Hood You can't see, it's way down there.

It's dark in here. We need to pop the hood, roll the brake fluid pressure bleed machine over. Uh, go ahead and hook that up to the brake master cylinder pump in new fluid, pump out the old fluid Purge all the air and then then I can throw the wheels on and get this thing back on the road. We can go on our test drive and burnish our rotors.

If I can get the hood open. come on. Big old hood. There we go.

Hello! Duramax How we doing Clean as ever? Okay, what do we got in here? Yeah, a little low from the leakages. No worries. let's go fetch the machine and a few quarts of fluid and get this party started. Or ended.

Or started and ended here. Let's see what we have in the Vault of viscosity. Uh, Brake Fluid Brake fluid. We're probably going to use three quarts I Know the master cylinder takes one entire court and then I've got to fill up all four of the calipers and the lines.

So I think we're going to use three? We'll see. Let's get this stuff set down over here. Stay right there. Brake Fluid okey-dokes the machines over here.

in the corner now. I Must advise this: Uh, this procedure is going to be a little loud because I have to use a shop air to power the brake fluid exchange machine so that compressor is going to kick on. It's going to make a bunch of noise. but uh so what I'll do is I'll uh I'll explain what's going to happen here before making all the noise and then I'll just go around in super high speed lightning fast motion and perform the procedure.

and then I'll uh I'll turn the Slo-mo normal speed back on. Uh on. Once we are ready to continue narration and after I get the wheels back on it. So moving up to our brake master cylinder, we can see the condition of that fluid in there.

It's horrendous. It's a GM thing. What I will do is: I'm going to section out with the suction side of this machine all the remaining fluid that's in that. Master Then I'm going to fill it back up with fresh new brake fluid.

I will then attach the machine on the pressure side to the top of that master cylinder and it's going to pump in pressurized brake fluid at about 10 psi. at which point I can go around all the bleeder valves on the calipers using the vacuum side crack, the vacuum lines open or the bleeder valves open vacuum out all the old fluid once. I see nice clean flue with no air coming through the vacuum hose. I Can close that one off and then move to the next wheel.

I'm going to start from the right rear, left rear, right front, and then left front. So the idea being, you start from the Uh, the wheel that's farthest away from the master cylinder. once. Uh, once I've got clean fluid out of all four wheels.

we're going to set the level back in the master and the fluid exchange will be complete. Then I can throw the wheels back on and get this thing out on the road. So let us uh, let's speed this up in the super high speed lightning fast motion compressor is powered on. Let's go ahead and hook up our air line to the machine and get started.

or finished. Or get started. Getting finished There we go. Okay, coming around over here, let's go ahead and just connect that guy right here.

Begin connecting. Now come on there we go and vacuum suctioning beginning. Pull our line out. Eye up here.

we're going to hang it off something so it doesn't fall down. I Choose not that scratch of paint. let's use that little hole right there There We go ahead and vacuum out all the fluid. Then we can refill and uh, I'll suction out as we describe to previously.

There we go. foreign vacuum powering down Connect. That pressure is needs to be depressurized. There we go.

Okay, so now we've got a full fluid system exchange. We made a mess because this cap started to come off earlier. We can see we've got clean fluid in there. What I need to do is pump the brake pedal a little bit and get those calipers to uh to press out.

We'll recheck the final fluid level and then I can finally get the wheels back on this thing. Okay, wheels are bolted on it on. brakes are bled. I'm up until after I drive home because I want to re-torque all these lug nuts.

uh, especially the ones in the rear because I had to pull and press those through those wheel hubs and uh, there's potential that they weren't seated all the way. So uh, I'll drive it sub and then re-torque later on and then recheck. They're probably fine, but it couldn't hurt. Anyway, we're on the ground, let's clear the rack, stockings the engine, back this Beast out and let's go.

Uh, get these brakes burnished that way. I can move on to do other things besides working on my own things. There we go. Let's go check the master fluid level one more time.

right there at the max. Mark which is right about here. This is good. Good to go.

reaching in, restocking the engine. Nice. It's alive. Awesome All right.

Silverado Let's get this thing backed out. Hood's still open because I'm going to spray it off. We had a bit of a spill going on up there. the uh, the little adapter that went on top the master was leaking and it caused, uh, some brake fluid to leak down.

So I'm just gonna go and hit it with the garden hose. Let's see here, let's make sure I don't run in anything, especially my fan or my door. All right, we're gonna need some garden hose action. Wash it all down and get the wiper towel clean, brake booster, brake master okay.

lock the belt off, just washed off everything, make it all nice. and Tiny see I do this stuff to my own stuff too. It's okay. Get into the wheel wells here, wash off any brake fluid that's lingering in there.

Pretty good. same thing. uh, back on this side in the wheel. well to get down on the caliper, a great fluid lingering on the frame control arm.

anything else, wash it all off out back, throws it down, hose it down over here. There we go. Good to go. let's get this thing out on the road and stay closing.

Hood Very nice all right guys. pulling out on the road. First test drive and uh, well, in two days because this thing's been on the rack for two days. I need to burnish these brakes meaning we're going to apply uh, some light pedal pressure from about 30 to 20 miles per hour.

And what that's going to do is it's going to wear away that outer layer of that that coating that you saw on those rotors and it's going to wear that away. It's going to wear away the the very top layer on the pads and it's going to allow the microscopic Peaks and valleys and the pads and in the rotors to wear into each other. and that's going to create a much more contact surface and allow the brakes to uh to produce friction as desired. So we're just doing some very light stops here.

We want to do this without coming to a complete stop so we can see I'm at a red light I'm just going to roll right up to it. Very light pedal pressure. We're going to do a series of Uh of these light stops or or non-stops Actually, if I come to a point where I have to stop I'll put the the truck in neutral and take my foot off the brake that way. There's no pressure just holding that, uh, holding the pad in the rotor in one spot.

The reasoning behind that is if you stop while they've while they're in the burnishing process, they can actually embed material from the pad into the rotary and we want to avoid that. There we go. Green light never actually stopped Good. So again, we're gonna do a couple more.

Uh, well. several the directions call for like 20 15 to 20 slow downs or stops. All right fellas. the uh.

the traffic was getting kind of thick over there. plus we were approaching a school zone. so I kind of made a couple right hand turns and I'm off in one of the neighborhoods. now.

that'll allow me to keep my speed down. and I can still, uh, apply a few uh brake pedal efforts. I'm just gonna roll around here for about five or ten minutes, do a series of light stops, and uh, smooth slow downs. Once that's complete, I will go out onto the larger road.

I'll do some higher speed brake events and that will complete the uh, the burnishing. So uh, let's get out of this neighborhood. There's a stop sign right here. Let's slow it down.

we'll get out of this neighborhood and by the time we're out of here, I should have, uh, enough brake wear on that top coating to actually do some some higher speed stops. Oh no. I've made an error and ended up in a cul-de-sac Plenty of a bunching out onto the big road. We're gonna do a couple high-speed stops.

First, we need to get up to high speed. We're gonna do a couple harder break events and then I'm gonna head back to the shop. Let's get uh, let's get a move on here so I can get some space between me and the traffic behind me. We're gonna start our uh first break event here It's a 70 mile an hour break event and nice.

Feels good. No vibrations. it was nice and smooth. Victory is mine! Finally, after two days of building this thing, it's in good shape I Like it all right guys.

I'm gonna go ahead and close this video out. Headed back to the shop I think this is a success I'm Gonna Roll around a little bit more. Uh, try to cool these brakes off some before I come to a stop and park the thing. but I can do that off camera.

So as always like thank you guys for watching this video. Hope you enjoyed this video. If in fact, you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that by tapping that like button down below. Drop me a comment or two while you're down there.

And most importantly, do not forget to have yourselves a great day! See you guys later in! Chevrolet in a transmission in a video until the next time. See you guys tomorrow! Oh I Almost forgot Silverado Firing down.