In this video I bring you along as I have a look at a customers 2016 Chevrolet Traverse that came in with a customer complaint of a SES light on, A/C off message and the temp gauge no longer works. In the perfect world we could do some testing but why test when you can guess!
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
If an SMA Video has helped you out please consider giving using "Patreon" to help support us. The videos take real time to create and pull us away from real work that pays our bills. CLICK HERE: https://www.patreon.com/southmainauto
CHECK OUT OUR "SMA SWAG" STORE! Go on Teespring and get your very own SMA merch!
https://teespring.com/stores/the-sma-store
If you don't like Patreon feel free to use the "PayPal Me" link: https://www.paypal.me/SouthMainAuto
The South Main Auto Amazon Store:
https://www.amazon.com/shop/southmainautorepairavoca
AES Wave Automotive Diagnostic Tools: https://www.aeswave.com/cart.php?m=affiliate_go&affiliateID=2525b91fc8e906e8215984074c9d9e8f&go=https://www.aeswave.com/Miscellaneous-p9347.html
Thank you for all the continuing support!
--Eric & Vanessa O.
Feel like sending some swag to SMA because you love the videos but don't know where to send it?
Just ship it here:
South Main Auto Repair
47 S. Main St
PO Box 471
Avoca, NY 14809
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
I work at a GM assembly plant. The reason for the lock (CPA connector position assurance) is if the connector isn’t seating all the way generally you can’t push the lock in. So it’s basically to ensure during assembly connectors are seated due to us being rushed with jobs being loaded. An engineer told me within the next couple years they will be on 99% of the connectors SMH
Assembly Technican not plugging wire connections in, Quality Control
What happened to the world's most eligible bachelor?
Gut again, no it’s genuine repair,based on common sense.good video.
Magnetized plastic would be awesome
The Ericometer detected a common anomaly and came to a logical conclusion of no Diagnostics necessary….you just know where to shoot the parts cannon….Experience isn't really guessing.
Good call Sir, keep em coming.
What trouble code do you have? 118, 119, whatever it takes.
How come you don't click your trouble light on and off a million times like Mustie1 does?😂
Do all these technical components really make our life easier or just more complicated and expensive when they fail?
Only reason any of that garbage is put on cars together with designing them so you have to have a lift or specialized tools is to force dealer only maintenance.
Funny, I'm beginning to think that there is something wrong with my 2016 Subaru outback as I haven't had to repair any electrical wiring, sensors or components like on GM vehicles!
😂
I left the red lock out of my connecter. Now I get stranded 3 times a week because the connecter keeps falling off.
(Said no one ever.)
Diagnose it? Why?! You've got the parts cannon! Give it a bang! 😂
Not guessing. Experience has shown….
No mans land is the ladies rest room. Speaking of connectors that fall off. The plug fell of the light switch on my 1969 ford pickup one night. Fortunately I was only 1/2 mile from home because the head lights and parking lights didn't work. I didn't have a flash light. Found out that by turning on the hazard lights and pushing the brake slightly the parking lights and tail lights stayed on so I drove home that way. i got a flash light and plugged the connector back on to the light switch. That never happened again so i am guessing they didn't plug it all the way in at the factory.
You do not have coverall so you cannot change the sensor. The International mechanic's police is now aware of your offense Mister !
Traverse the abyss of its plastic engine bay if it break.
After enough experience many of us shoot from the hip at times.
Eric drops the light mother— edit video and we are back to our regular program. One can only guess what language occurred. I know when I drop my work light deep in engine bays some colourful language usually occurs.
Definitely not a mechanic here but never once have I seen a Ford, Chevy or Toyota have a connector that just fell off a sensor. I've seen sensors leak, I've seen connectors get crusty but not spontaneous separation. I hope I don't work on these new locking ones. I will say the nicest locking connector I've had the pleasure to use was the 1991-1994 Explorer fuel injector connector. Little wire spring that held it on. Super easy to undo and nice positive click when it engaged. Doesn't need to be more complicated that that.
Looks like the fella on the label has the gear to torque his nuts as well.
if your light magnetizes to plastic it's probably running way too hot
Connectors rattling off!? Have you ever seen how the connector stranded Kurt Russell on the side of the highway on that ZJ!? He nearly lost his wife because it didn’t have a red locking tab. And nearly lost $90000 too! *that connector doesn’t actually exist on that Jeep lol.
Hiya Eric
Nissan Maxima and pick up, we're very well built back in the 80s. Never needed Green Locks. They definitely didn't have exploding Trannys.
The lock tabs in my estimation have to do with the assembly line, going through and making sure everything is clicked on. Wait until they find a way to put them on Jiffy-Tite connections.
acting up and acting down down with temp.
Good fix Eric O. Thanks for sharing 👍
Again with the laser guided Parts Cannon eh Eric? Folks, this man knows his stuff!
Thought Eric was going to bust a RainMan Ray quote “light gravity” when he dropped the light
Back in the 80’s when I started. All the old iron had single spade connectors on both sensors, oil pressure and temperature.
You should ditch tee spring and reach out to bunker branding for you merchandise.
You've gotta make sure the fishing pole is hidden better the next time you tell Mrs O that you're "taking a car for a shake down".
Eric posting almost every day is just indescribably satisfying
Lmao. Right next to the electronic freaking thermostat needs replacement every oil change!! Who thought that was a good idea!! What’s wrong with the simple mechanical thermostat? Electronic power steering. Electronic alternator. Electronic water pump. Electronic radiator. Electronic bumpers. Electronic glass. Geez that engine tapping like a vw flat four.
Terminal Position Assurance is the term for the existence of those connector locks.
the red lock came from a few engineers together at the bar and they all had kin folks that needed jobs and the connector lock was born
You’re more of a parts sniper than a parts artillery man
Mrs. O is right, you ain't wearin' da overalls you're ain't allowed to work on it.
I know why Chrysler started with the locks in the 90,s. They dropped the PDI time from 1.5 hrs to. 9 hrs. So all off sudden the PDI guys were finding wiring problems to make up the extra time and a loose connector was the usual repair code. So they thought they had a big problem with connectors being assembled incorrectly hence the locks. This came up at a training course.
Middle name Thomas. So, do we call you ET?
Good call! Hopefully it's all good!
Last year a bad coolant temp sensor on my 98 Chevy K3500 with the 7.4L left me stranded for a little while with a crank, no start. After it cooled down, it started up and I was able to make it home. I had the same thing happen some years back on my 98 Chevy K1500 with the 5.7L so I always keep one on hand and so I fired the parts cannon at the 7.4L and put a new sensor on it and that fixed the problem.
The diagram just means you have to have a big … wrench (yeah, that's the word) to do it.
I played back your sped up sensor graphing segment at 2x in the youtube settings and that music really rocks. Thanx for the triagnostics temperature tango. Thanks Eric O.
A Zulu Warrior or a Mechanic.
Really looks like your operating on that car with the beeps in the background
Correct terminology for the parts cannon ammunition holder is "clipazine"
I hate removing them tabs as much as the rotor screws. Unless they're needed on my own vehicle they won't be going back on lol.
yep you need your "overhauls" and not sure about the hard hat, but Mrs.O is the one looking out for y'all
Only time I ever had a connector "fall off" was after the ding dongs at Pep Boys broke the tab during a starter replacement..and they did nothing (i.e. wire tie)to ensure that it didn't just fall off( which it did within 1 month
Thanks Eric. Does anyone know if its normal for a coolant sensor to start out reading, say 200C, at startup on a cold vehicle, then drop and stabilize, adjusting to what seems to be the correct coolant temp as the engine warms? its a 2006 Ford F150; i thought the scan tool data (OBD2 also) for this sensor would show a temp similar to the ambient temp as well as the engine temp? Seems odd. The reason i even looked was that as the engine warms and the thermostat opens, the engine temp gauge on the dash shows the needle somewhat past center, to the right, although it never gets to the red zone. Truck seems to run fine as the temp gauge has been very consistent over time. Just thought the temp gauge + the scan data for the coolant sensor was odd and maybe indicating a bad sensor?
Headlamp Eric you’ll never go back. Ivan put me on them.
WAG Science wins again.
The locking tabs are just to visually verify that you've plugged the connector all the way, as you can't really lock them if they aren't plugged in all the way.
Trust issues! It didn't happen if I didn't see it!
Mrs O plays well on Camara!
Experience is priceless
Ever tried pulling a vacuum on cooling system and changing sensor? Helps actually hold coolant in engine and spill little to none if held under steady vacuum. Pretty cool trick. Also saves a mess. Mityvac air vac works great at radiator cap. Try it sometime, works awesome. That’s for all your help and enjoy your channel.
The everyday schmuck Maybe someone will start a new yt channel…
Don't worry. I won't tell Paul D. On you.🤫
I did that on my 99 Saturn in 2008. It was always idling high as the sensor was telling the engine it was cold. The sensor was 22 bucks and the special socket another 13. After I replaced it the engine idled back to 800 and the gauge read correctly. Such an easy car to work on. I look at the engine on my 2018 Focus and I say "what's that thing?" Or "what does that big metal thing with fuel lines do?"
Hi Eric and the Lovely Mrs. O. I ain't goin near you not being able to find that hole____________________.
Good video Eric
Someone in the background is torquing to factory specs….
I’ve officially lost track of how many timing chain jobs I’ve done on those 3.6L. Customer states: “Always maintained and changed engine oil when monitor said 0% oil life left. Why is there a cam timing error code?”
It looked like the (not qualified person) was wearing a suit while the qualified person was wearing farmers bib overalls . LOL Great stuff !
Hard hat, overalls, and your tool in your hand.
The connector lock is probably a .01 cent peice that they charge $100.99 for.
Yeah, all too often I see folks relying on the scan data, without the temperament of experience. I've seen so many ECT's fail without giving up a code. Especially pre-OBD2. Sometimes you can tell by flooding when it's hot, and by the O2 sensor readings. TBI's were famous for that. The sensor would tell the computer that the coolant temp was -40f/c (It's where they both meet! LOL!) I just unplug the injectors, then crank it over. After she clears her throat, she'll fire up for a few seconds.
Not on the Insti, not on the Facebook (shocker, I know), but I am here in the comments! And thanks for showing folks that they can do it too! o7
Eric if you didn't have so much experience it would be questionable. Otherwise, this was a good judgement and call! Nice 👍
If you don't have years of experience don't do this at home.
More timelapses of the live data please. that was so satisfying
Eric O's pull out game pretty strong for an old man… and left-handed for that!
I interpret it as you can't install it nude…you must have a wench and overalls 🙂
Hey Eric did you get the electrical stuff??
The red clips are probably called SEP clips at GM. Somebody Else's Problem clips.
Hi Eric, I used to work as a design engineer for a supplier to Nissan for the head lamps and tail lamps. Preventing “soft set” connections was a big deal. During design reviews both internally and with the customer (Nissan) the manufacturing engineer and design engineer needed to show proof of how we check for and eliminate the potential for a soft set connection. In most cases we use connectors with the secondary lock (red tab) that a machine can push and verify that the red tab is in the locked position. It was a big deal to a lot of people. Oh well I’m back to being a mechanic now and much happier
Oh yes, one of the GM vehicles that are on recall 🤣🤣
How to make money as a tech. Step 1: Guess the part you need. Step 2: If that doesn’t fix it, hurry the FUCK UP and fix it right.
Awesome video.
Did the test drive include a trip to the local fishin' hole? I saw the pole in the back…now I know what Eric (Danger) O does on his test drives!
Connecting lock was invented by a group of attorneys after losing a lawsuit. Harness too short from factory, broken motor mount pulls everything apart and a mother with a minivan full of kids stalls on the train tracks. Or some other tale of woe. Cars are built to be assembled on a line, after that it's tough luck to us all. These videos encourage one to keep thirty year old cars if not corroded on the road. Thanks.
Catch any fish on your 'test drive' ?
“Connector position assurance” clip, or CPA clip. It’s used by the manufacturer to ensure the connector makes a positive connection with each other. And it is supposed to alert the autoworker at the factory that the connector is completely seated. Yes it was becoming an issue. I was told that they aren’t necessary as long as the connector is seated and locked.
"Quick Shakedown" is code for going Fishing! You forgot to hide the "customers" fishing pole i the back! JK 😀 Thanks for the videos!
yes i have a 1985 nissan . Connectors are shit.
Must be nice to know what to load in the cannon. Nice one Eric O. See my previous post. My cannon was about 400 bucks and the Money light won`t go away.
my buddy named his kid caleb cool… so he could always say cool is my middle name and prove it.
Rainman Ray stated that Nissan is the Chrysler of Japan.
Fought a BMW today. Glad to watch someone else fight something else for a change lol
You were supposed to have a giant wrench to do that.
I have a 2 1/2" open end and a hardhat. Do I qualify to change out a coolant sensor?