Part 2: Parts Cannon Complete! It’s bulletproof | Ford Escapé 2.5 https://youtu.be/tt4kx-np8IM
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to

Follow me. Very foamy. let it get in there nice and deep. Like There we go.

Hello everybody, Good day to you! Welcome back! This right here is a 2010. Ford Escape XLT This is kind of a project restoration vehicle like a side project for the owner uh customer. States The rear windows do not work, neither one of them. They don't go up and down.

See blows one other thing on this truck but I don't remember what it was. There is a check engine light. Found that what's our mileage on this particular vehicle? Turn the brake off. Poppins Your brakes.

How about 139 513.0 miles on the odometer? Well, just kind of taking a quick look around. There's your problem right there. You got a piece of wood shoved in the glass. That's why it doesn't go down.

Interesting. Okay, see what the button says about this? Oh, it's not okay. You hear that? Okay, well we know electronically, the system works. The button is effective.

Let's try the right rear. That one also has a piece of wood shoved in the glass. Okay, so I'm assuming at this point that The Regulators are probably broken in those rear doors and that they would need to be replaced. So uh, let's put that on the back burner.

For now, let's swing this thing into the shop. see what's up with the AC It actually does. feels a little cold. hmm maybe I misread the RO I don't know.

AC seems kind of cold. We can revisit that in a little while. Let's get it into the shop. We'll plug the scan tool in it, see what's going on with this check engine light.

we'll see what's up with the uh, rear window regulators, and then we can go from there. So stay tuned because this is gonna be a very good video opening. Z Hood Thank you I'm just gonna nose right on in over here. We're not working in the third stall just yet.

I'm doing some cleaning and reorganizing. uh, like I said in a video a couple days ago. I'm gonna go ahead and get, uh, get all this stuff cleared out from this corner of the shop and we're gonna do a little bit of painting to improve the Aesthetics of the environment. I'd say that's far enough.

parking's the auto I'm Gonna Leave the AC running. Make sure that stays nice and cool. Let's get our door open here popping easy Hood Let's take a look out of the Bonnet see what it's looking like down there and then we'll fetch that scan tool. All right.

Bird Show me what you're working with down here. What do we got? I Bet we have oh, a four-cylinder It deceived me I Didn't think we had a four banger in this. You see, the sticker indicates that's a 2.5 liter four cylinder. Okay, that's a little cross-o-matic right there.

I Don't know how I feel about that. Yeah, we need to clean that stuff up later. No big deal. AC is making some cold.

how's our fans doing? Fans are running. We fetch the thermal meter to keep an eyeball on that AC system. All right, let's just plop that in there. We'll check on that thing later.

So I'm hearing some clankity clanks down here. I'm wondering if that's the compressor for the AC or if it's something with the engine. Uh, we can shut down the AC compressor real quick and see if that noise goes away. If it does go away, then that's going to tell me that the compressor is making the noise.
If it stays there, then it's not the compressor. and survey says the noise is gone. So that indicates to me that that AC compressor is in fact making noise. Okay, that will be noted.

Turn that thing back on just to make sure it cools like it's supposed to be. Cooling More cool. There we go. Let's fetch the scan tool next and see what those diagnostic trouble codes are about.

There she is. Scanner: Danner All right, Scan tool powering on. We're going to use our flashlight to find our little connector founder. She's way down there.

scanner paring on, linking up, satellites, communicating loading databases. Automatic ID Initializing Okay, as per our earlier assessment 2010 Ford Escape A front wheel drive only 2.5 liter dope four-cylinder with a 139 513 miles on you odometer. That is all correct. Good see.

Let's see what our engine codes say. What do we have here? I Bet we've got a EVAP system. That's what it is. p0440 that's what I think that's my guess Am I right I don't know Am I wrong oh my God And it did well I was close p0443 EVAP System purge control circuit p045 System: EVAP System leak detected Fuel cap off slash loose.

Okay, that told me what it is. p1000 OBD2 Readiness not complete. That means these were recently cleared P0301 Cylinder one misfire and that's pending trouble Code: Let's look into that real quick. Let's see if we have uh, misfire counts.

climb into Data see if we have a PID for misfires. Uh, misfire data. There we go. Continuing collecting data.

Okay, average Misfires: 80 misfires on cylinder one. That's the count All right. So this data list does not show me if there's current misfires I would probably need Ford IDs to uh to view that which I do not have. So we do know that there are misfires that are present and are being documented on cylinder number one so we can look into that uh at a later time.

Let's go back into our codes menu. Now this thing right here. This P0457 that was stating that it thinks that the fuel cap is off or loose. Now that's hypothesizing.

it doesn't know I Think the cap could have been loose. It could have been removed. It could have a bad o-ring seal on it. So let's check the fuel cap real quick if this cap is.

oh, it's a capitalist system. Okay, that's that's not what I expected to find. Okay, that uh, that horse is a different color I'm gonna have to smoke test the Cbap system later on. Okay, backing out of here again.

It had a code for the EVAP system purge valve circuit. so let us go back into Data uh Engine management evap fuel system data. Let's go into that one couple things I'm going to look for in engine data: I Want to see when the last time this, uh, these codes were cleared and I would also. Oh, here we go: Number of warm-ups since DTC cleared 43.
So it has been started and the engine has come up to temperature 43 times since the last time this was cleared out. That explains the OBD2 system Check Incomplete. That's that. P1000.

Let's see if there's anything else here that's standing out to me. Fuel level? Nope. Nope. Emission monitor not running? Nope.

I wonder if I can take control of the purge valve? Oh, here we go. It's gone 727 miles since the last time it was cleared and it's been 725 miles since the mill set again. So this thing was cleared out. It was driven two miles and then the light came back on Again, a real quick side note: we're only making about 56 degree Air at the center event, so this, uh, the system is underperforming a little bit and we have a noisy compressor so this thing's probably going to get the compressor treatment.

Um, if we're going to touch anything with the AC I'm I'm a little actually more focused on the engine misfire and the customers want to get those two rear windows fixed as well, so we're probably going to focus on that for the time being. All right, backing out of these menus here. Let's go ahead and power this thing down. I Want to? Uh, I'm gonna pull the spark plug off number one and make sure it's okay.

Then we're gonna check that purge valve. Maybe we won't even do it in that order I Don't really know. Let's see. this is going to be number one right here.

All right, let's go ahead and get this coil off. We're going to take a look at number one, see how? uh, see how this thing looks visually? So right off the get-go I Don't see any oil around the bottom of this ignition coil. That tells me that the spark plug tube seal is not leaking and saturating the plug and that looks like a new plug? Maybe not. I Don't know, it's in there.

kind of tight, but it did look nice and shiny from the top. Oh hot. No there is oil on that. Look at that.

Hot. Hot Hot Hot Hot Hot Okie doke. So here's what's going on with this spark plug. It looks right here like this is a foamaco spark plug.

So I would bet that this Uh could be the original. There is a little bit of oil on it down here at the base, so that tells me there is some slight seepage from that valve cover gasket. And to back up my theory that this is the original, it gaps out at uh, 55 thousandths of an inch. You guys see that it's a little.

yeah, a little reflective from the light, but it's at 55 thou which is ten thousands above Spec I Believe Now, although that could be or is a problem, it may not be the problem for the misfires. So we're gonna do some process of elimination here. What I will do here: Pull out number two. See, we had trouble codes for number one being a misfire.
we're gonna pull out number two and we're gonna take the number two coil and number two plug and move that over into the number one position and then we can run the engine some more. If the misfire moves from the number one position over to the number two position, we then know that is either the spark plug or the coil. In which case we can move the coil maybe to the number three position and then see if the misfire follows it. This is also tied in there.

I Think there's some carbon buildup on the threads where they protrude into the combustion chamber, because that's kind of toy. No mercy. See how this one looks? Ah, look at that crusty nasty on there? That's that's a new one. Look at this thing.

that that plug is horrible. I Did not expect to find a rusted out spark plug. Yeah, we we need to put some plugs in this. Well, just because we found some obvious defects here, that doesn't mean I'm not going to continue on with the diagnostic experiment.

So this number two spark plug is being transferred over into the number One position. It's going in right there linkage. We'll drop that guy back down again. This is the uh.

the coil from number two. Here's the spark plug from number One that's going to be moved over into the number two cylinder. Yeah, I did that. You caught me? Okay, and the coil from number one.

So all the secondary ignition components have been swapped between cylinders one and cylinder two. I'll have to run this for a little while and it may set a code or I may just have to look into the misfire accounts. We're gonna see if that misfire followed. If it didn't follow, Then we have something else going on with the number one cylinder.

It could be an injector. It could be a valve. Could be piston rings. Could be a plethora of different things, but we will cross that bridge when we come to it.

So now, let's over restarting Z engine and I want to check on that EVAP system uh, purge valve trouble code. So begin engine starting sequence Now now I believe that it said that the purge valve had a uh a circuit code which means it detected open circuit or it detected uh, a short circuit I think that's our purge valve right there. It's got the large vacuum line on it that goes back into the EVAP system down below back to the fuel tank. and first thing I'm noticing right now is I'm not hearing or feeling this solenoid actuating.

Let's pull the hose off of it if I can get it. Yep, getting a vacuum here. It has scared me. I'm not feeling any vacuum here and I think I should.

Let's see if I can't actuate that purge valve and uh and see if it's going to come on or not back to the scan tool. So we're gonna go into functional test output controls that should give us control of one of the systems and we're gonna look for Purge percent. There we go, there's our Purge now it's plugged back in and I'm going to open that purge valve wide open. 20 30, 40, 50, 60, 100 open on that purge valve.
Let's go check it and see if we have any flow and coming back down below. Nothing happening. at the purge valve. There is no flow, no vacuum now just to make sure that it is receiving the command, let's connect a a test load to the connector and if the test load begins to respond to commands, then we know that the ECM and the wiring is good and that the valve itself is faulty.

All right. In an effort to speed this up: I Have a known good purge valve. It's good. On the electronic side, it is not good.

On the ceiling side, this thing had a leak anyway. I've got a purge valve here and I've connected some test leads to it. The green and the yellow are connected to the two Blues which are some adapters those are connected to the pins and I've got two more blue adapters that are pinned right here. We're going to connect these pins to the wiring harness and we should see or hear this valve actuating.

It's going to go open, close up, and close up, and close very rapidly. If it does, then we know that the circuit and that the ECM are in good condition and that will confirm that that purge valve down there has failed. It would need to be replaced. By the way, Pardon all the noise.

There's lots of stuff going on around here. Troy's uh, renovating the other side of the shop as we speak Anyway, I Need to get these two pins connected to this connector and we're going to witness this thing. Come on, you're gonna need two hands for this. So I got to hang you guys out to dry.

Let's see here. Plugging that one in. Plugging that one in, Get on there. Oh yeah, look at that.

You hear it open, close, open close. So this purge valve is functioning so it's opening and closing like it should here. All right, that's confirmed. Kill.

That's a diag on the purge valve. We're going to need to replace the purge valve in this. I'm not going to do anything with leak checks because if the purge valve doesn't function then the system cannot continue. its uh, its diagnostic checks and any of those other codes I'll consider those to be uh, uh, sort of a relevant right now.

So we got to fix these in phases one thing at a time. So let's head back into the cabin and see if we can't. uh, check on those misfires to see if they've moved. See what we've got here? Well, we're still making uh, 55 degree air.

Okay, let's get out of our EVAP system menu, backing out all the way out. Continuing: We're going to go back into: Data Dion Engine running data door and we're looking for misfires. Show me misfires on number two. That's what I want to see and nope, Nope, nope, not yet.

Let's give it some throttle. see if they show up on number two. it's a negative. I'm going to put it in gear and put a slight load on it.
Maybe it only wants to misfire under load I'm power breaking it. left foot on the brake, right foot on the gas. We're at about 1200. RPM Not seeing any change in misfires yet.

Shut her down. Restarting the count went down on number one though. that's interesting. Oh what's more interesting is I feel it right now I feel the misfire occurring right now.

it's like but what I don't see is that it's showing up on the scanner. Very interesting. Okay, well regardless of uh, whether the scan tool picks it up or not I know it's there. and I know those spark plugs are over specification they're They're a little worn out.

Plus we saw that number two plug was full of rust and nasty. So I still want to move forward with a spark plug spark plug replacement. words on this particular truck: I Don't think we need to do coils just yet because those can get a little pricey and there's some other stuff on this thing that needs a bit of attention. so we're gonna go with the plugs.

We're gonna go with the purge valve. I'm going to give an estimate for the AC work at least the compressor and then we're definitely going to end up doing um, these rear uh, rear window regulators. but I need to go ahead and do some paperwork and get this thing worked up. first.

be right back. Approval is to proceed with uh, some minor and some major repairs. Um, looks like I'm going to start to tackle, uh, everything that has been on the the list so far. We're gonna put plugs in it since I did find some oil down below inside of this spark plug tube and it wasn't a lot, but it was there and we're at 130 000 miles.

I'm also going to pop this valve cover off and replace the gasket set for this valve cover. We're going to do the compressor. That's not going to happen today. We're going to put a belt on it since the compressor is being replaced.

We're going to fix this. uh, purge valve. We're just going to change that guy out with a new one. That's going to be pretty simple.

two eight millimeter bolts, uh, one plug and one hose. Pop that guy out. pop the new one in that will fix the purge valve DTC And then at the same time, where's Troy we're gonna get Troy pulling apart the rear window regulators say hi, Troy we're looking at you I need you to go ahead and start to disassemble these door panels because I have Regulators on the way. So um I'm gonna go work on the engine.

You're gonna work on this regulator, let me know if you have any questions and I will come and help you. Uh, when that time comes and we're gonna do both of those rears, uh I'm gonna see if I can't get to that side over there to help him out before he has to do both of them. Those are not particularly fun. I mean this one's called for low labor on that, so it may not be too tough, so I'm hoping he can handle it solo.

Let him apply his uh, critical thinking and decision-making skills. We'll pop those guys out. Coil oil, tres and uh, number four. So I've got all the coils disconnected, but there's a like a rogue wire over here hanging out.
I'm wondering if this thing is like a a knock sensor. Got a dust boot? here? There's our connector. Yeah, that's got to be a knock sensor or something. See if I can't get that out without breaking it.

Good to go. Okay, we'll pull these harnesses aside. Let's get this one disconnected from here. Oh, there we go.

Got that. And we've got one hose a little farther back. Let's get that guy off. We don't need you here.

Tuck that aside. Oh, there's another over here to the left. I Think that's a cam position sensor? maybe? Don't know, So there's still a bunch of debris and sand up here on top of the valve cover. Let's vacuum that stuff away.

Carry on. And there's some uh, rodents droppings. Let's get those out of there. Very good.

Okay, let's pull these plugs back out one more time. All right? Okay, we've got some eight mil action. Let's pull these studs out. Oh, and the dipstick while we're at it.

Gotta get rid of that. Anyway, let's take the studs out. get rid of those. Get this thing unbolted and pried away.

Parts Have been ordered so that stuff should be here anytime now. All these bolts seem to be captured in the cover so they're not going to just come out. They're going to stay right there. Do that.

There's like a a clip or a grommet that holds them in. Ranch And uno mas? Nope. I already got that one. Okay, that's all the bolts.

I Think let's crack this thing loose. let's see how this is gonna work out for us here. Cover: It's kind of warm. I Ran it for a while.

Here we go. Cover is coming up. tapes holding it on cover coming out. Come here.

Oh pretty clean in here. look at that. It's cleaner than I Thought it would be all right. Let's go through real quick with a shop towel and wipe away all this dirt that's on the ceiling surface.

We don't want that there for when we go to reseal this. A lot of it's oil, but some of it's dirt. Some of it's dirt and oil. and in places like the front.

over here some of it is some sealant and we can use the towel to remove the sealant kind of. Polish it until it comes away. or goes away. or comes.

and then goes away. That didn't sound right. Epic failure on verb usage. This piece of sealant.

Get rid of that. wipe That off and we can move on to that purge valve next while we wait for parts to arrive. So let's take a fender cover here and cover up this valve train just so we don't drop any nuts and bolts and dirt and debris and anything else done to the engine. There we go.

that's nice and safe. Alrighty, Looking down at the front of the engine next to the intake, we're going back to that purge valve. We disconnect our vacuum hose. That one runs back to the tank.
We've got two eight Mill bolts. see if I can't get these with a power tool tight? squeeze in there I think I can walk them out. there's one and the second one right next to it. Break loose.

Got it? Very good. bolt extraction complete. Now let's pull this valve out. give it a wiggle.

The O-ring came with it so that's not stuck in the manifold. Here's our faulty valve. We've got a vacuum Source from the manifold. our electrical connector.

There's a solenoid inside of it that operates the little pencil uh, pencil valve and then uh, as that opens and closes, it will send engine vacuum back to the fuel tank to recover. Vapors That's how this little guy works. So here's a good opportunity to illustrate just how these things can fail. We've got two Purge valves here.

They both do the exact same thing, just a different Design This One functions electronically, which means the solenoid inside does work, but the valve itself sticks uh, open or closed or and or both. It's just got a lot of friction inside the valve. Could be because of contaminants. Now this one over here.

We do not know if the actual Uh pencil inside of it does function. it may or may not, but this is an example of a valve that has failed electronically. So you can have one component with two different modes of failure, both of which can cause the same trouble code or different trouble codes to set. It depends on the programming nature of the system, but two valves, two different failures.

This one's good for testing electronically. This one's not good for anything, So that's when that's getting thrown in the trash and this is getting put back on the Shelf in case I need to use it again to prove another different quality component. This is why mechanics board things and we never get rid of them. You never know when we.

well, that didn't take long, like literally. I Looked up and the parts guy was here delivering parts. So uh, we're not going to wait for anything. Let's pull our new valve out and give it an inspection.

Looks like some assembly is required. Well, let's start with the obvious: We have an O-ring to install. let's get that guy on and then we have a grommet to install. Looks like the small side goes this way.

Slip that in and then this one and then the inserts which go front to back thick and another insert. click. There we go. Assembly complete.

Okay, so for some ease of installation, words: let's just get a dab of dielectric on that O-ring That way it doesn't get hung up on the bore in the manifold. Just gonna screw that on there. Good to go. Let's get this thing installed back to our Escape We go check our valve.

slip that guy down into its home, gonna wiggle it in. There we go. and then the two fasteners. See here.

let's get that one started threading and fretting and threading next. same here on the other. Fastener I can't see there we go I felt it going in. Get that guy started and let's go ahead and get that thing tightened down and plugged back in.
Now those inserts that I put inside of those grommets. those prevent over torquing so I won't be able to smash The Grommet and put that thing in the wrong way. click our hose back in hose flickage and then there we go get our connector back on. That is good.

I Also have over here in my possession our new valve cover, gasket set and a belt and a compressor and some spark plugs. Hooray! I Got NGK the G powers. uh they did not have any Motorcraft plugs so I figured I'd go with what I what I know is good. All right.

so real quick. Let's just compare these plugs with the new ones. again. We're sitting at about 55 000 Gap and the new ones 38 39 foul I Know you guys can't really see that, but you can see where it lands on the gauge.

So the other one landed here. this one lands over here. Yep. Confirmed kill.

Definitely worn out coming in right here. Up this gasket out of here and get the new ones reinstalled. I've already got them unpackaged. They're blue so you know they're good.

Okay, let's just get under this gasket, work this thing out just like so: I think there's three pieces to this gasket. four pieces, maybe there's one there and then these inside gasket sections for the spark plug tube seals. There's one. that one was full of oil, another one coming in or coming out coming in and out.

Come here. pull that guy out and numeral Quattro Let's get these guys refitted. Here Comes Our Replacements that's looking pretty, shapes and colors. Get that one in and then the center section.

Let's get that one in. Just press right down into those grooves and there they sit. Sometimes they don't fit very well and you got to clean all the oil out of there. Like anything residual, it's got to be super dry, otherwise the gaskets won't stick inside of that that little Groove But in this case, we're good now.

Utilizing shapes and colors, we can see that there's a few angles in this section, so that's either going to go on this front side of the back side and it looks like it fits back in that back side. good and we will go all the way around. the circumference. Does this really count as a circumference? because the shape is not round? I mean I Want to say circumference? but I believe that only refers to things that are circular like the circumference of a ball or the circumference of an orange which also is a ball.

English is hard. I Think the word you're looking for is perimeter perimeter. Ah, perimeter. Two points for Troy We're going around the perimeter.

There we go. Thank you sir! My brain's not fully activated yet. but I got a backup from a backup over there I'm there. All righty.

this thing has been re-gasketed Let's return to our 2.5 meter four-cylinder third motor and get this guy reinstalled. Then we will drop the plugs back in and move on with additional repairs. Okay, let's lift the veil here and get our protection out of the way. I'm going to need to get a little bit of a RTV sealant at the area between the front timing cover and the cylinder head.
There's a little Gap right there and we don't want that Gap being a pathway for oil to leak out and uh, leak down the side of the sides of the engine. Words: just a little bitty dab right there and right there. Good to go. Which is awesome because this little tube is out of sealant.

Get rid of that. So now we can maneuver in our cover. taking care to not drop a bunch of dirt down in here, to not smear the sealant, and more importantly to avoid peeling that uh, gasket out of its. Groove Zip the gasket comes out I've got to take this apart and pre-seat it and do it all over again.

and I don't want to do my job twice Today I got a case of the Mondays and I'm kind of sunburned. Went to the beach yesterday. right near the beach. bye right near the beach.

boy come on now. Click. that's it. Fell right in.

good. Let's get all these little Fasteners started by hand. a couple turns. that one there.

That one there good, very good. one fell out but I found it. Let's get this guy in foreign. You can see this thing is flexing as Torx torque is being applied.

That's the gasket starting to smash down. These are just preliminary clicks. This is a very fragile cover so it's going to get, uh, torqued with the actual torque wrench in a moment. That's all good.

So far, we've got them all. Let's get these things fixed with the actual torque wrench. All right. Quarter inch torque wrench coming in.

We're set up for 89 inch pounds of torque and that's what we're going to click it to. More there we go. back over here to the left. Oh oh I missed one.

That one's not even tight at all. Fix that right now there. Come here. That one also is loose.

That happened from the gasket being a compressed as I torque. The other fasteners there we go. last one and a quick recheck of the first couple that I got still tight. That's still tight.

Okay, that's all good to go. Let's go ahead and start. Uh, reconnecting all of our components here. Get that guy on that one.

This one goes down yonder to its connector. We've got fuel injectors. Where's the next one go? What did I lose? Okay, we'll get that guy in. That's our knock sensor.

I think I heard that click. There's an injector and that's not an injector that is an injector. This one goes right in here. Cam position forgot where that went, but we'll figure it out.

Oh, coils. Silly me. let's go to the coils. one two three and coil number four.

That's where all that goes. Okay, I'm good to go here to put our wiring harness back on. It's a little studs where that goes. that PCB hose at it connects right back here I hid you from myself.
There we go. Snap that guy in I Think it's achieved all that is set up. Connected wires are routed prop properly. Let's get the spark plugs back in their homes I Want to get through these kind of quickish because I'd like to get those uh, those rear windows set up for the end of the day and then uh I'll probably get around to this compressor tomorrow I think I haven't hooked the AC machine up to it yet so I need to do that before pulling the compressor out and pulling the charge out just so I can document everything that I found.

how much refrigerant was in the system and the pressure is the operating pressures of the system while it was working well turned on. and no, I'm not using a never Seized on these plugs. Never Seize is a lubricant. and by adding a lubricant to the plug and taking away the friction in the thread, the plugs will become over torqued and potentially yield the aluminum threads in the head.

And that's how you end up with strip threads. So uh, no, we're not using Never seeds. It's not how it's done. it's not the spec.

I mean you guys can use Never Season if you want to. but the way I see it, if it did not come with it, it's not going to get it, especially when it comes to engine parts. There we go. All right stuff.

We're going with some spark plug torqueage here. Some actual clicks. continue. Get these guys set up here we go.

One quickage. Perfect. I Had guesstimated these perfectly. Almost there we go and coil time.

Oh, come here. coils. Let me reach past you guys. Okay, our boots look good.

A little bit of dirt on that one. No biggie. Let's get some dielectric in there to, uh, keep the spark contained and the moisture out. It's always good practice if these guys dropped into place and bolted in, reconnected and we can fire this thing back up and check those.

uh AC Pressures good and four fasteners down. Beautiful. Okay, we are all reconnected. Purge Valves done, spark plugs have been replaced, coils connected, flashlights, out of the way, wires are all reconnected and out of the way.

We are looking good for this segment of the repair. Let's go get our goodies out from the engine compartment, recover the tools, restocking the engine, and then we'll fetch that AC machine and see what those presses look like. All right, let's maneuver ourselves past Troy right here. Say hi, say hi, say use your words.

No, you scared him. You guys scared him. Let's go inside restarting the engine and let's fire up that AC one more time because it's hot in here and I'm gonna go ahead and clear these trouble. Codes out codes, menu, and memory codes.

continuing. Let's just refresh ourselves and what we had for codes. EVAP System Purge Valve Circuit code EVAP System Leak detected. We have to disregard that until we fix the circuit code and monitor is not complete and that misfire code is not even here.
Looks like that one cleared itself. How about that? We're going to clear them all anyway. Check engine light, turning off and turn off. Yep, there we go.

That took longer than I Thought Let's go check that purge valve. It should be clicking away right now. see if we can hear it over the engine noise. Not really, but I can feel it now here.

I'll prove it to you. Watch this. We're going to disconnect it that check engine light up see the engine change. So there was a change which means there was air going in and we stopped that air going in.

Once we uh, disconnected it, let's see if it started to set that circuit code or not exiting it may be pending right now. We just want to make sure we can verify that we can actually recreate it There it is, Found it, same code it returned. So now we're gonna clear it one more time. check on our pressures.

We're going to recover that system and see how much refrigerant we have There we go. Machine powering on. Beep! Get the hoses here. we'll get this all prepped and set up.

You guys stay there. I'll be looking. Oh I Heard some seepage out of that cap. so the cap does hold pressure.

Get on there right side valve. That one was a stubborn one. Yeah and see what we got on our high side for pressure. Compressor is running.

Smokes? What is that? What are we doing up there? It's also too high time to recover. I Wonder if this thing's overcharged Connecting system? Yada? yada. Let's go ahead and pull it down. So too high pressure.

that's going to be a restriction. It's going to be an expansion valve that's stuck powering down, or it's going to be like a clog in the condenser or something like that. Or the system's just overcharged, which it could be. A lot of times people will have a system that underperforms and they'll go grab one of those cans from the parts store or Walmart or whatever.

shoot that can into it and they end up overcharging the system. so that's also a possibility. According to our sticker, we require 1.56 pounds or 0.71 kilograms of refrigerant recovery has begun. What are we pulling up here? Hey, Troy got one of these Regulators out.

Let's take a look and we have a broken cable regulator. That's why they were stuck in a down position and were falling and not going up. These cables broke off where they're supposed to attach to the motor regulator assembly and it probably has Twisted cables inside. Yep, I can see it down in there.

There's a cable running like sideways diagonal at the bottom of that little bore. Yeah, we can even see right here that the ball at the end of the cable and that is supposed to go around right here and attach to this slide like right here and right here. and both Falls have been removed. So uh, it's Flawless and it cannot operate.
So yep, that one's jumped I Speculate that the other side has suffered a similar fate. We've got some Replacements here so that's going to get Fair uh squared away in no time and our machine is not yet done recovering. We've got four minutes left until it tells us how much it pulled out of the system. All right.

So Troy has got uh, he's got this window regulator in. let's see if it's gonna function right? That's all the way up. See, there was some tape on here holding this up before the block of wood got shoved in. but we've got up and down action so the regulator is now regulating.

Good job brother, You got it and the other side's halfway apart. So I'm going back to my AC I Heard the machine do some beep action. Let's see what was recovered out of this. uh, looks like 1.415 pounds and our spec is 1.56 pounds.

so very slight. uh, a little bit low. not much. Um, so we've either got a restriction here or the expansion valve is stuck closed.

We do have compressor noise however. Uh, since we do have an entire other type of system to go ahead and service I think I'm going to go ahead and uh and pause this operation for now and close this video out. We're coming up on the acceptable time limit for a specific repair we've already like shoved in like one, two, three, Three points, Five, 3.5 repairs into one video and I'd say that's good enough for today. So like I said, I'm gonna go ahead and close this one out right now, we're actually fixing to pack it up and get out of here.

It's uh, it's getting a little late in the day, so uh, we're gonna pick back up on this mignana and uh, we can proceed with the service in this AC system. We're not gonna need these here for now so I can shut down my AC machine and uh, later on, we're gonna revisit this car. I'm gonna disassemble it a little bit further. we're gonna pull that compressor out due to the noise I've got an expansion valve on the way as well because it came with the compressor and I'm undecided on whether or not there's a restriction in this condenser or not.

So what we're going to do is we're going to pop the compressor in. We're gonna pop the expansion valve in, recharge it, fire the system, back up and see what the pressures do. If we still have high pressure, then then we know there is in fact the Restriction somewhere and I'll go ahead and pull out this condensing unit right here and we'll change that thing out as well. But that's all going to get saved for the the next edition of this particular Ford Escape So that being said, as always, like to thank you guys for watching this video.

Certainly hope you enjoyed this video. If you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below. Don't forget to tap that like button while you're down there and most importantly, have yourselves a great day! See you guys later in the video in deferred Escape End of multi-faceted service operation in a trans machine.

97 thoughts on “Customer states: fix it all! ford escape broken windows, check engine light no ac”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Skkrrt Skrrt says:

    The connectors could be bad

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Katie Luv says:

    You shouldn't force the window motors when they jammed. The worm gear is designed to permanently strip to avoid cutting off arms and fingers.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Gregg KUZILA says:

    Why can't you put the prices of the work that you do so we can look at it

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Tiddybearkush says:

    King of diagnostics.

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars 73 Maverick says:

    I miss my old 2010 Escape 3.0 FWD version. NY salt sux!! Sigh.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Matt C says:

    It’s probably a bad idea to just say “fix it all” to your mechanic if you drive a ford.
    How will he know where to stop?

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Lázaro yonerkis Cepero cardenas says:

    Estas aprendiendo, a hablar Español😂🤝👍✌🇨🇺

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Roger Sibilsky says:

    Wrong on the "anti use" of the anti seize.

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Trevor Austin says:

    Whenever you meet a goody-two-shoes ecoloon, thank them for their lovely efforts in increasing the complexity and costs of manufacturing and maintaining vehicles. It’s so kind of them to create ever tightening emissions controls. Theses really hammer the poorest of people. I suppose they don’t like them very much.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Joseph Erhardt says:

    "Customer states: Fix it All!" If I were a mechanic, I'd've just orgasmed.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MattOGormanSmith says:

    "All the way down" Why is half way down considered acceptable these days? With old cars the glass goes completely into the door, giving a comfortable ledge for elbows.

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mark R. says:

    It's a Ford, you have to fix it all and often!!!

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Steven Resendiz says:

    The bad compressor, binding/locking up my cause the computer to see misfires

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars RIP SRT says:

    so the plug in between the spark plugs is the cylinder head temp sensor. it doesn't go into any water jackets, just solid head.

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars tom koala says:

    I really enjoy watching these videos!! I am an old school mechanic and always like to learn others techniques and ideas. Great channel Ray is top notch keep them coming!!!👍👍

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Kirk Boswell says:

    "Perimeter" is the word you want……….Troy spoke before I finished typing………

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David Bloomberg says:

    Exhaust venting system connected??

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Death’s Head says:

    Backyard mechanic here. Was working on a Ford Focus a while back and had a hay day with the Valve Cover Gasket. Tore the VVT seals during first install. I was so upset when watching this video Ray had zero problems with it. Experience shows.
    I also understand that an Escape and Focus valve covers are not the same, but are similar.

  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Etienne Giroux says:

    I was born in a Ford family in the 70's, it was like a religion, arguing with our neighbors who had GM. My first 5 vehicles were Fords. I thought it was normal to have that…service engine soon countless times. After I bought other vehicles…never had that message again…25 years on people.

  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David Zamula says:

    Thanks for diagnostic tips and tricks.

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars ThePistonbreaker says:

    Learning to speak Spanish…😂

  22. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Gary Gross says:

    Ray im very proud of you I've been watching you through your channel for over a year and couldn't agree more. Congratulations

  23. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dynasty1K says:

    Anyone in San Diego know of a mechanic that’s as reliable and knowledgeable as Ray? Ever since Covid, a lot of the shops here have become meh at best as far as i know.

  24. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Star Blaser says:

    love you videos… funny

  25. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Sovek says:

    55 thou? holy moly. yeah, those are worn….. my 2.0L had I believe original plugs and some were gapping at 39thou (spec is 35) and I could notice a vast improvement with new plugs.

    huh… that engine is almost identical to the top of a 2012 2.0L. Funny thing about that… I did the same job on mine as the spark plug holes were dry, but I had oil seeping from around the VVT solenoids and back of the engine. After getting the cover off, and new seals in I reinstalled it. Following day I throw out the gasket box, and notice one of the gaskets still in said box. Now, I had in fact removed all the old gaskets. Pulling coils 2 and 3 confirmed my fears. they were full of oil. but it gets worse. I pull the cover back off, (having to cut the new seals off because my smooth brain installed them backwards) just to put the missing gasket on. Thankfully a local store had 2 of the seals in stock but all my money saved getting said gasket online was eaten by my mistake.

  26. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars مطبخ ام معاذ المطبخ الريفي says:

    جميل جدا ورائع جدا جدا احلى لايك ❤❤ يدوم التواصل ما بينا يا رب

  27. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Martin VS says:

    The apprentice proved himself on that one. Way to go Troy! Looking forward to Part II.

  28. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mark Condrey says:

    Ray you need to quit your job and go into the physic business! ( Because this is going to be a very good video) lol JK.

  29. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Yedayah says:

    I like your attitude & work. Where you located? Good video!

  30. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bot says:

    Just asking to crossthread those plugs😅😅😅😅😅man oh man.

  31. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars joe malone says:

    love the intro music whatever it is

  32. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars NoMercyInc says:

    Broken windows isn’t a mechanics issue it’s a body shops

  33. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Scott Lamberson says:

    Great work Ray.. we appreciate your expertise. No use of any Break Cleaner though… hmm.. you not feeling good?!?!? LOL

  34. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Michael Marciniak says:

    The “periphery.”

  35. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Kerry Lewis says:

    I love my purchased new 2009 Ford Escape with 196,000 miles with the big 3.0, but I also love how easy it is to work on the little 2.5. I've developed an oil leak on the timing chain cover, which makes me sad because it is not an easy peasy repair.

  36. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars William Felker says:

    Ray Circumference = "Circular (round) Perimeter= Outer Boundary Irregular in Shape, I Retired Service Manager. (Find The Reason For The Problem= Good Mechanic). Good Showmanship Presentation Thanks

  37. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars John Thorpe says:

    For the one who said the "repair was fake" because he had a part to test with … just look back into the archives and check out the video titled "Customer States Check Engine! Ford Mustang GT 4.6 P0440 Evap System Leak" and you'll see where that valve came from … specifically a 2006 Ford Mustang GT.

  38. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars James Basye says:

    Anti seize is deffinitely something you should not put on spark plugs, but engine components if they dont come with added grease or it doesnt mean it doesnt need it, a cam should be liberally coated with parts lube upon install,

  39. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Chuck Maddison says:

    The customer says fix it all.
    You call tow truck and take to dump.
    Fixed.

  40. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Insane clown says:

    Ford escape is junk😂😂😂

  41. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jean Claude Van Damme says:

    You can tell Troy is well suited to learn this trade. I could tell by the way he was operating a pry bar on a different video. Some people, even with the best mentorship and guidance, still just don't have it. Thanks for the videos.

  42. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Thomas S. says:

    For the DIY to save money, the purge valve could be repaired. I had a P0456 on the same Ford 2.5L engine: "Slow Leak". Removed valve. On the bench with pressure tester, I confirmed that, with no voltage applied, valve was not sealing when closed. I applied 12VDC to it and sprayed brake cleaner in it. Lots of carbon black dirt gunk came out. More spraying with WD-40 and brake cleaner and valve was clicking open and closed when I connected/disconnected the 12V power. cleaned it more, and more dark residue came out. I then let it dry. It was sealing again; confirmed with pressure tester. Installed it and it is working as it should.

  43. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars ben says:

    I enjoyed this video! And you are good at multi tasking!