2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser TRD uh customer States Post Purchase inspection. That ought to be good because I just started the engine on this uh particular truck. it's a 4 L it's V6 Just started this engine at 49759 Mi on the odometer and before I even got it into the shop to take a look at it. Check engine light came on, Vssc light came on, Vssc track light came on, Squiggly lined car light came on and the tire pressure warning monitoring system light also came on.

So this thing, uh, this thing's got some issues. I'm going to go ahead and fetch the scan tool. uh, pull up the trouble codes and see what has happened with this recent purchase on this. Toyota FJ Cruiser So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video uping.

Z Hood Oh look who that guy is. Hello everybody! Good day to you! Welcome back! Glad you guys are here! I know I'm super glad to be here now as you have gathered. Uh, per my introduction, we've got a post purchase inspection on this. FJ Cruiser It's a four-wheel drive off-road machine.

It's got a bunch of warning indicators. uh, it was here just for a a visual kind of looky lose situation and uh, we have found out that it's got some uh warnings going on. So I've got scan tool here, it's pulled out. We're going to go ahead and pop in our engine again.

We've got an 08 FJ Cruiser 4 L V6 We're going to get into the engine, see what's going on with those trouble codes and then try to come up with a path to diagnose this situation. And we have a p0016 uh Crankshaft Position Cam Shaft Position Correlation Bank One Sensor A So what this is telling us is that the measurements between the crankshaft and the cam shaft on Bank One are not what the ECU is expecting. Now, this is a V6 engine. so there's Bank One and Bank Two.

It's got a sensor that detects the position of the cam shafts on both sides bank One and two and it's also got a sensor that detects the position of the crankshaft And what this code is saying to us is the correlation between the bank one and the crankshaft is inaccurate. Uh, it doesn't seem to care about the bank two, but uh, there is an issue with bank One. Now Usually folks, go, hey, it says crankshaft Position Sensor. Let's put a crankshaft position sensor in this and then go from there.

Uh, However, that's a silly idea to just throw a part at something without really, uh, trying to understand what the system is about and what's going on. Uh, especially in this particular case, because if memory serves, I Believe that the crankshaft position sensor is located behind the alternator behind the AC compressor, behind one of the AC compressor hoses, and then that bolts through the bracket to the compressor and then into the engine block. So I'm pretty sure just throwing a sensor in there is not a good idea cuz it probably takes like 2 or 3 hours and uh, we're not going to do that just uh for tri agnostic sake, but we are going to take a look at engine data and see if we cannot come up with something that Uh is going to give us a direction to move forward into. Um, we're looking for.

Let's go into variable Valve timing that's Vbt data and see if anything in there can uh can help us out with what we need to do. All righty data menus. Hold up. We hit the up button that's going to scroll us all the way to the end of our list here and I Want to see just how long this check engine light has been turned off? According to our data, we have had approximately five warm-up Cycles since the last time the check engine light was cleared Additionally The distance that the vehicle has traveled has been 14 miles since it is cleared so recently, probably right after the oil change was done right after the vehicle was was purchased.

that check engine light came on or was turned off or came on or it C it was on and then perhaps someone just turned the thing off. Regardless, um, we do realize or I realize at this point that you can't just solve this problem by turning off the light and clearing the codes. so we're actually going to have to attempt to diagnose it. Um, normally I think the best practice would be is to attach a Picos scope which is an oscilloscope uh to the cam shaft position sensors uh and the crankshaft position position sensor in order to watch The Wave forms of Those sensors in actions Uh, However, I don't have a Picco scope that was a kind of a dealership luxury back in the day and I don't own one I should probably get one, but I haven't Uh, haven't felt the compulsive need to get one yet.

So I don't have a scope to uh to diagnose this properly as per manufacturer specifications. So we're going to come up with a Uh an alternative means of narrowing down what the issue is going to be with this particular car. We do know that there is an issue with variable valve timing. so I want to look for Pids? That's going to be data? It's going to give me Vbt angles.

There it is. That's what I want VVT control bank one on and off and there's another one for Bank two. So we're going to go into this and manually tell the cam shaft and tell the variable valve timing to change positions. We going to do that right now with our scanner.

We're going to select on. Oh yeah, yep, we've got a reaction out of it off. All right. So Bank one did respond.

That means the system is capable of functioning on bank One. Let's just, uh, go over to Bank two and repeat the same procedure. We're going to actuate the Vbt system. It's going to advance the cam shaft and if we see a response out of the engine, then we're going to know that the system is capable of functioning.

It's just, uh, not functioning as it's designed or when it's uh, supposed to. So we're going to hit Uh, control and Bank two. This is the non affected side and yep, we are feeling some reactions. Engine speed has changed.

Let's go ahead and back out of this. Turn that off. So selecting our system to full chuge, actuated and deactivated uh does show us an effect. Let's try to do this.

uh via percentages. So we're going back to Bank one and what this Uh menu is going to do is let me add and subtract Uh duty cycle values to the camshaft actuators and it's going to let us creep up on actuation. So we're going to hit our we highlighted plus and minus right here and these are the percentages: 1% So we're going to continue to increase until we feel an engine change. so we're 4% 5 6.

Keep in mind this is Bank One 7 8. The Ult trol 9% It doesn't really care 10% it doesn't care 11 12% It still doesn't care RPMs are holding steady and it's smooth. 13 14, 15 16% Nothing's happening 177% Oh, here we go here. We go here we go now.

We're starting to get a little bit of action here so let's go ahead and back out. 154 We're taking it down back to zero I'm watching the tack right here so down to 0% and the engine seems to stabilize. Now let's move it into the negatives and we can this cam shaft and see what it does. Let's see if it responds.

It responded at 15% positive. Now we're 15 negative, 17, 18, 19, 20 H Okay, we've got no response on Bank One in the negative side and we are already at 40% 41 and we still are not responding. Okay so now what we will do. We're going to back out of this menu and we're going to go over to the bank two option and repeat what we just did.

So we're going to VVT control Bank 2 percentages. We're going to go into the positive side first and see if the engine reacts, collecting data positive we're selected. Let's scroll this up five six. You guys take a look at the T 7, 8 getting a little closer so you can see N9 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16 Now I'm feeling it.

Okay, we had some shutter action and RPM changed a little bit. Let's back it down down down down. We're going to bring it back to zero and then let it restabilize. We'll check out our RPM idle's looking normal by the way.

I have the AC system turned off for this testing sequence. Uh, what we do not want to happen is the AC cycling. Uh, skews our results here. So we're going to continue to bring this cam shaft into the negative and see if it starts to respond 11, 12, 14 Okay, this engine does not care if we camshaft timing at idle.

Let's give it some throttle, see what it does. It doesn't seem to care right now. Oh I came off Idol and ruin the test. Okay, I have exceeded test conditions, but what we did learn is that it didn't seem to care at idle going back into the negative.

But it did respond on both banks on the positive side. So we've in my opinion. I Think we've narrowed this down to a couple of possibilities either: Either it's not being told to change position, it's not being monitored properly, or it's being commanded to change position and that's not, uh, actually happening. So let's get under the hood real quick and see if we cannot visually identify, uh, some of these components that may be affecting the situation.

FJ Cruiser Where's my uh little thing here There it is. What do we get here? A Bbti V6 that's 4 L We're not going to see much of anything with this engine cover here, so let's get this guy un boled. You got a A Lorn nut right there. It's decorative, see how smooth it is and we're missing one on that side, so that's fine.

And look at there. we have an intake manifold. All right, All righty. So that's not exactly what I wanted to find in here I Was looking for a little bit more of a better View and I've kind of got one, but this is not really helping as much as I thought it was.

I Figured our solenoids were going to be on the front of the engine somewhere where we can easily inspect them and perhaps, uh, mm, test them. but uh, we cannot do that. This solenoid, the one that's in question is right down there underneath of this hose. right there.

you see that little, uh, little cylinder sticking out. That's the part we're looking for now. the sensor. uh, for the cam shaft on bank one.

That guy is right right there. between those two components. You guys see that, uh, little speck of blue on the connector or on the sensor body. So that's our cam shaft position sensor.

The crankshaft position sensor, like I said, is underneath of that alternator and that AC compressor down there. so it's back there in the engine block so we're not going to get to that. And on the other side, there's our sensor. and then the solenoid on this side is right about here.

So like we talked about earlier, the way that this Uh system works is: you've got one sensor that knows where the crankshaft is during its rotation, two and three sensors that know where each cam shaft is during their rotation. Then you've got a sprocket on your timing set that receives oil pressure that's actuated by those solenoids. So what can happen here is those solenoids can offer two different modes of failure. You can have an electronic mode where the Uh electronic section of it fails to close and then send oil pressure through the system.

Uh, or you can have a restriction in the oil so you got one electronic failure mode and then you've got a mechanical failure mode. If that Uh cam shaft is not receive its oil pressure when it's supposed to, then that cam gear will not actuate and it will not change the correlation between your cam shaft and your crankshaft. Uh, which the two up top, left and right Banks those Uh should be doing that in unison. Now, when we commanded that with the scanner, it did seem to work.

So I know that physically the oil is able to make it to the actuator, so that kind of rules out. We either have an issue with the solenoid or there's a potential issue with the actuator. Now, the path at least resistance says we should be paying attention to that solenoid first, because that actuator means we've got to pull this whole intake off all the engine accessories. We got to pull the Uh valve covers off of it and then the timing cover just to get to the timing system.

Uh, that's many, many hours. There is one thing that we're slightly overlooking here and we're just going to go and rule that out right now. as I mentioned, this is an oil press pressure actuated system. so if we have low engine oil or foamy engine oil that can actually cause uh, an air rated effect and the cam shaft sprocket will not receive the appropriate pressure because there's a bunch of air in the oil.

So we're just going to do a real quick engine oil check on this just to verify that oil is not low or in bad condition. And according to this it is brand newish that matches up with what we saw in the sticker. So I don't think it's an oil pressure or an engine oiling problem. Okay, so I want to do one more little experiment here.

We're going to hop back in I'm going to clear these trouble codes and we're going to do some engine restarts and I want to see if they come back with a quickness or uh, if I'm have to drive this. Um, what I'm thinking is uh, do a littleit little bit of experimentation. Um I would like to rule out that we actually have a sensor issue. What we noticed on the front of the engine is without pulling the intake manifold, we can get access to the sensors.

So what I'd like to do is clear these coats and then we're going to start it. We're going to continue to restart it and hopefully, uh, the fault will be present very quickly if the fault shows up in a timely manner. What I'll do is go back and then swap those two cam shaft position sensors side to side. So we're going to take the Left Bank one that's on driver's side, move that over to the right bank, and then vice versa.

So if we have an issue with one of the sensors, it will move the definition of the code from the P16 to uh, whatever. the uh, the same code is that correlates to the bank two side. So basically if we have a a faulty sensor and then we move it, then the trouble code will tell us that uh, it has moved in changed positions. It'll give us a different code.

So that's kind of going to be the tactic here. So let's just get this thing cleared out. Begin clearing codes now. please thank you.

Code's cleared. We have no Illuminator Let's go ahead and shut her down and I'm just going to do some restarts until we get that code to come back up. Uh, it should not take too long, but uh I'll let you guys know, stand by. don't go anywhere All right.

This is the fifth, sixth, or seventh or whatever restart and we're still not pending a new DTC. So I'm going to go ahead and pull this thing out. We're going to go for a quick spin around the block a couple times and see if we can't uh, aggravate the symptom while driving I I Realized that it came on while uh, or when I started it out in the parking lot earlier and it just kicked the light on uh, immediately after. uh, well, couple couple minutes after restart.

but that could have been because that DTC was triggered while the vehicle was driving. So I don't want to rule out that it needs to drive before that code is triggered because it should not be uh, requesting Vbt actuation at engine idle. Anyway, so we're going to go out put, uh, put a wide array of loads on it, different engine speeds, accelerations, decelerations, and then we'll see if that uh, that DTC does not come back up. Well, I'll rephrase know it's going to come back up.

but I don't know the conditions in which it should be coming back up. Here we go, so we're going to try to recreate those conditions. Look, we get three wiper blades in this car. All righty.

So we're uh, we made a few miles, uh, riding around town, kind of putting around I just came back over the bridge. uh, in reverse order from normal I Normally come out there and then go that way, but we went that way first and around a bunch of blocks and now we're over the bridge this way. Anyway, that's inconsequential. We are hanging out here at Uh at a red light, still no trouble codes.

Let's go ahead and take this opportunity to shut down, restart and then we'll check our scan tool looking for pending Dtc's uh, sometimes you got to shut them down and restart them because on occasion the Ecms will, uh, not trigger the code until after a shutdown procedure. So we still don't have any codes right now now. Uh, let's go ahead. Green Light: I'm going to go ahead and pull up the DTC menu in a moment and we're going to take a look at active codes and perhaps we've got uh, we've got one showing up in pending so we don't have any active cuz there's no light on yet.

Let's check pending real quick. Those are the codes that have not fully met the criteria to be triggered, but it it's well on the way and look at here: p0016 Crankshaft Position correlation Bank One Sensor A So the trouble code uh is returning. so whatever had, uh, whatever was causing that that condition is still present. Uh, we're going to go ahead and head back to the shop I'm going to do that cam shaft position sensor swapping game real quick because we can swap those out without any disassembly of the intake manifold.

I Do believe I Can just barely reach the connectors as well as the 10 mil Fasteners that are, uh, holding those into the valve covers. So back to the shop, pop the hood one more time. We're going to swap sensors, clear the pending code, drive it again, and we're going to see if that code moved from bank one over to bank two. If it moved over to bank two, then we can hypothesize that the items that we changed which was simply the position of the sensor uh is the uh the issue.

So we will know at that point definitively that the sensor is the cause. If it's not the sensor, we're moving on to something else. So let's just go ahead and nose this bad boy around right back on in here and we'll get started on it real quick. Like not going to take too long.

We're basically going to swap that unit out and then, uh, we're out of here yet again, powering down and repoing. Z Hood All right, let's get back under the bind here and get to those position sensors again. There's one of them right there and the other one is right there and I know I can sneak those guys out. All right? So here on Bank two, that's going to be the easiest one to reach.

Uhoh, look at here Toyota stuff right there. see that that's already a broken connector and I didn't even break it. We got one one snapped little connector right there. Not a huge deal, but it could be that is our position sensor right here.

and there's the 10 mil that holds on to it. So we're just going to crack that guy loose and I'm going to fish that sensor out and then swap it with the other side like we talked about earlier. So let me just back that nut off, bolt nut bolt, sneak that guy right on out of there and hopefully I can do this without dropping. Fasteners That's a not the goal here to drop all my my nuts and bolts and whatnot.

A little warm. I've been driving this around, but I think I can handle it. There we go. we wiggle out that sensor.

Now we're checking that for a bunch of debris built up on it magnet, magnetized, metal, things of that nature. It looks pretty clean, so all we need to do is disconnect this sensor from that harness and we'll set this one aside. so push that tab in, just give it a little tug. So this is the one we're swapping over to this side over here.

so we'll set this guy down right there on the back battery and then I've got to reach way back and in. The other one is right here behind the throttle body. It's pretty tough to see. Throw some lights in there.

Yeah, here's our other unit right there. so let me fish that one out of its home and then we'll install the uh, the other one. I'm going to call the one that came out of the this side over here the known good sensor since this one here is slightly in question. Uh, it may not have a problem with it at all, but we're using the sensor swapping uh method here to perform the process of elimination of problem solving strategies.

so we're eliminating this as the cause. if, uh, if we drive it and that code Remains the Same then we know that that sensor the one I'm touching right now is not the issue. We just wiggle that guy out and I apologize if you guys can't see I I know you can't I can't There's a bunch of hot engine parts in the way, but uh, well, we're working on it here. So I've got the sensor out I can't it's hot I'm burning myself.

Let me just try to get a flang on that on that clip there. There we go. So that is so that right there that is our suspected faulty unit. We'll just go ahead and move that over here to the side that did not have a trouble code so that one's now on.

Bank Two, Let me get her plugged in here. The orientation of my plug is not exactly ideal. There we go, snap that connector on and our Fastener is coming in. Ow ow.

That's a coolant hose right here and I touched it with the the back side of my flang and it burnt a little bit. Isn't that funny how parts of your skin are extremely tolerant to things and then other parts of the skin are very intolerant. Tighten that guy. There we go and the other the one way back in the hole.

There, we swap that out right now. All right here we go. Other sensors coming in we'll feed that into H Its little boar coming in with the Fastener Let's get this guy threaded down. Little bit of torque action here.

Ow hot. Okay, it's bottomed out there. We go, a little bit more clicks and then we can get that connector connected. Sorry if you can't see snap, crackle, pop.

All right, that guy's on. Okay, so that achieves our task. Let's get our goodies out from under the hood. We're going to go back in, grab the scan tool, recheck that pending trouble code, clear it if it's there, and then if it is there, or even if it's not there, we're going to go back out and drive this again and see which code shows up in the pending status and which one does not.

Shiny All right. Climbing back in, restarting the engine fired right up. no problem. Let's get into trouble.

code menu. This thing was still powered on. Oh epic fail. I Left the throttle body disconnected.

Horrible. Yay! Now the throttle body is connected and I fully broke that tab off. There we go. Fix that later with a zip tie.

You got me again. Wipe Me Down Okay, take two restarting Z engine. Now obviously the light is on. Obviously we have some trouble codes here so those are all TPS codes I caus that let us check uh, pending Dtc's real quick.

same ones. Okay, not a problem and we're just just going to go ahead and clear those away right about now. Clear codes. Light should be turning off, continue turning off and we're good.

Let's go Aad and shut it down, power down and repowering the engine. No Dtc's no warning lights yet so let's go ahead and back her out. Go for another drive. All right, we're out of here again.

Going on test drive move. Do Still no codes looking at the scanner. Uh, it's not there yet, but we're going to try to instigate this. We managed to get it on that last test drive before the sensor swap.

So uh, let's see what happens on this one. Oh no. I see some emergency vehicle illuminators? What? Uh, what's this problem right here? We run our cars up onto the curb. Oh, that's the state Cops you messed up.

State Patrols on you, All right? We're going to give this a as much acceleration as we can. Uh, also considering we have a wet traction surface here, we're headed up over the bridge we're going to try to roll into Full Throttle here. but I don't want to I don't want to spin the tires in this horsepower machine. We're going moderately wide open I think we're about 80% throttle accelerating.

It's still very smooth looking, good looking, good still. No. Coates coming up I'm peeking down at the scanner every now and then I'm going to let this thing uh, leave it off throttle and I'm going to desel all the way down the bridge once we get down to the bottom. I'll get back on the throttle again and we can continue.

Hello yellow light. Floor it? Not really. So yeah, we're going to coast along. I'm still keeping an eyeball on this uh on the scanner.

hello phone I wonder who it is? Hello hello yeah, hi sir. my name is Russell calling you from us Healthcare Support: How are you doing today? uh I'm good. How are you I'm doing great Thanks for asking me. The reason of my call is to inform you that the rates of secondary Medicare insurance have been dropped down with a huge margin.

So I'm here to qualify you from the new updated plans. So I believe you do have Medicare services and your Medicare part A and B boths are active right? Yeah, yeah, Are you my doctor and how old are you? By the way sir, uh, old enough to have Medicare how old are you? I'm 37? Ah cool, Who are you calling from Bye Felicia Okay, he didn't like that. Anyways, let's uh, take this opportunity to go back into check. uh, pending trouble codes and NADA there's green light Ram them they're running a red light anyway checking for Dtc's as we accelerate away.

uh, checking in pending on the scan tool and I've got nothing pending just yet. So we're going to give this some decent long run accelerations and about halfway down this stretch, we're going to bring it back to idle. Uh, let it Coast for a little while and basically what I'm trying to do here is ex uh, excite the variable valve timing system in any way possible to uh to get that code to come back up and off throttle. we're coasting, coasting, coasting.

I'm going to flip a UI right here and we're going to head back, uh, to the shop space. Hopefully we can get that uh p pending code to come back I Really like to see that. Let's see what she does here. Oh there we go.

Left turn arrows: We're out of here flipping the UI going back to the store I'm still not getting a code I Really need to see something come up because I know swapping Those sensors did not uh fix the issue here so I I really do need that code to come back I Still do not have that trouble code pending um at this current point in time. so uh, currently my strategy is inconclusive. However, I do have a backup plan and that backup plan is going to be let. This thing cold, cold, soak, and uh, restart.

So what we're going to do: I'm going head back to the shop. we're going to shut this thing down, park it overnight, and then tomorrow morning I'm going to drive it again and uh, we basically just have to continue repeating the drive cycles until it starts to give me a a hard F or that pending code shows back up. All I need is the number once I get that number. then I will know whether the fault has moved, uh, stayed in the same spot or is, uh, maybe it's doing something else.

uh, if it moved I know it's the sensor. If it did not move then I know it is not either of the sensors and additional uh considerations must be uh taken at that current point in time. All right guys. Pulling back into the shop I didn't catch it on camera cuz I was maneuvering traffic but we did get our check engine lights.

uh to come back on. Let's go ahead and pull up our scan tool and see what our codes tell us. Let's just go ahead and nose this thing right on in here. looks like Dave took my spot.

no worries. I will go left. get past that cart. we're good.

Yep got itol I don't know some guy did he said I don't know who put that toolbox here. All right window's down. we're good here. Parking: Z AO ha There it is has got it.

p0016 Cam Shaft Crankshaft Correlation Bank One All righty. We've seen enough. Let's power this unit down, repoing the hood. Let's go ahead and dig that.

Uh Take A Look Down Below Okie Do So Here's where we're at, seeing as how we instigated A Change by swapping sensors side to side and we found we have the same trouble code. That means that the sensors were not involved. Now at the low mileage that this vehicle is at 50 something th000 I Do not believe that we have a timing chain issue. It's highly unlikely that we also have an actuator sprocket issue.

Uh, the most probable cause for this uh symptom right here is a failing actuator. Uh, that's basically an electronic solenoid which controls the oil valve inside of the head, which then allows oil flow and pressure to the sprocket, changing valve timing. So what we're going to do is order a replacement and we're We're going to swap that out. Okie Do so.

A quick disclaimer: I have made a uh a Not really a critical error, but I have made an error Uh I Got the two sides of this engine flippy floppy. Uh, I was over here pointing and looking at this side like it was bank one. Uh, the reality is this is bank One. So that's cylinder one right there.

That's cylinder 2 right there. So the can crank correlation code was actually relating to this side of the engine. not that side. Uh, it does not affect my testing however, cuz we just simply swapped some components.

Uh, the trouble code came back. same code that indicates it. Uh, it belongs to this bank and not that bank. So we're going to be conducting the exact same procedure.

However, we're just going to focus on this side and not that side like I had mistakenly been assuming uh from earlier. So I hope that clears that up. Moving on, now that we have that out of the way, my uh, what? I'm suspecting here. Uh, rather than um, a timing issue or a a sensor issue, I Believe we have a fault in the solenoid.

So what we're going to do is order the proper solenoid. Uh, we're going to dig that one out of there and uh, and then get it swapped out and replaced. After that, we can go redrive it, retest it, and check it again. All right folks.

After having diagnosing or been diagnosing this for hours and minutes and days on end, let's go ahead and start pulling some things apart. We're going to get started here. Here we go. Let's get all these uh, little leftovers out of the way.

We're going to take the uh airbox off, think we need to pull the throttle body off, and then once this throttle body is out of here here, I Could probably reach in past all the plumbing and whatnot and get a hold of that actuator. So anoid, the Uh Labor Guide is not looking too vicious on this job. So I don't think we're going to have a whole gigantic uphill battle on this particular situation. Let's pull our air filter lid.

Oh, look at K&N million mile filter right there if you clean them. another bolt here for this uh, intake box looking bit of business. It's a very large intake box. I think there's one more.

No. I got them all. just unon connect you. There we go.

Now we just kind of roll this thing off to the side. We're good. See here. Okay, so we've got our bank one solenoid right here.

There's its connector and the bank two solenoid is right there. Let's go ahead and get this guy unconnected. Electronically tight. squeeze I Don't even think I have to take the throttle body off.

Tell you the truth. I'll try that with a tool I can push the button and I can pull on the connector but I can't push the button and pull on the connector at the same time that still doesn't want to let go. Let's try to push the button more. There we go.

Did it break our connecting unit? Uh, it's a negative. Connector is not broken. Okay, so there's one of the solenoids. We pull this connector off just to get it out of the way and we need a 10 mil right there for that.

Fastener Actually, we're going to do the uh necessary repair and I'm also going to perform and an unnecessary repair because I'm going to go ahead and replace both of these uh actuator solenoids. Uh, Reason being is Once Upon a Time I worked for GM and GM has the 4cylinder Ecotech And the thing with the four-cylinder Ecotech is they love loved to burn up camshaft actuator solenoids. And what we had found is when we would get a car that had one failed solenoid, we would change the single solenoid and shortly thereafter another would fail and it would require us to go back and and we'd have a comeback. and we have to do the second solenoid.

So I've adopted the practice that when, uh, the price of the units is fairly manageable and they're not excessive or remarkably difficult to access I just prefer to change both of them. That prevents uh, future problems with the system. So basically, you change them in pairs and that's what we're going to do. We're going to change both of these units at the same time, but we're not changing anything If I can't get this uh, this unit to come out of the cylinder head trying to pry on it against the head here and pop the thing out, it's it's going to be sealed in with some O-rings and I think those O-rings are not letting go and the solenoid is just stuck in its bore I Don't want to pry on it too hard.

break it. It's already broken. but if I break it more I might not have anything to pry against to get the thing to extract. It has started to rotate some and it does move.

See that? Yeah, it rotates but she just doesn't want to come out. okay. I'll tell you what what I'm going to do. I'm going to go in there with a flat plated screwdriver.

See that I'm just going to try to twist that screwdriver. We're going to turn it. There we are. Now we're cooking.

Look at that. Apply the proper amount of force in the correct orientation or correct direction. Rather, we can overcome those. Uh, those O-rings Come on out.

Come here you. We want to see what you look like inside. Holy Smokes! I Do believe I have found the problem. Look at that.

No way that is sludged up something fierce That's not okay. Yep. and that's also why we're changing both of these solenoids. So now we know it's for sure.

Uh, not a sensor problem. That's definitely an actuation problem. Let's get rid of that connector. That's our second actuator down there.

Uh, let's get my 10 mil out and we can dig that 10 m bolt off of this solenoid. Get you un clicked thing's deep down in that hole too. Super deep black. Maybe I should take the throttle body off? Yeah, I I I am.

why not? It's in the way and my fat flanges cannot reach. We'll put those guys up there. Uno MOS Cracker loose? There we go. Look at that now.

I've got some little bit of space to play with here. Boom The bar I'll take that cam sensor loose now I can reach everything I'm trying to reach you guys can't see my big old hand hand in the way just working that 10 mil out. Spinning and spinning and spinning. Don't drop it.

I mean I probably could drop it. It won't go too far. There's our there's our bolt and O this one's going to be fun to get out of there too. It's in there deep.

Okay Selenoid numeral dose. This is the one that I thought was the affected one based on firing order and the code and I was mistaken like we talked about earlier. the one on this side over here. that's the one that was actually coating.

Uh, it doesn't matter cuz now we're changing both. If I can get this other one to come out of there, let's see if I can't rotate this thing some just to break that that initial bond between the O-rings and its bore. If I can break that Bond and get this thing to rotate, might be a little easier to walk it out. it's sort of moving.

Yeah, I'm glad I took that throttle body off. If this TV was still on here, there's not a chance we are going to get this guy to come out. So I've got the flat bladed screwdriver back there again. I'm just going to try the twisting method to encourage this thing to pop loose.

here. we go there now. It's moving. Little bit of pry action switching to the trim tool.

Let's dig these connectors out of the way cable. uh yeah, just battery cable. see how this one's doing? gravits I See some nasty in there? Hoya that's bad. Same condition, covered in engine sludge, a lot of it.

Look at that, it's not okay. Okay, dos a little bit of a closer view here. we can see the Uh, the contrast between a brand new unit and one of these sludged up older ones. You can tell or well we can see if you look down inside of there, that's actually the valve that lets the oil pass.

You got a A little return spring right here and on our old units these return Springs are completely credit up full of slud. There's almost no oil flow happening here. so we've got a flow issue and that will 1,000% cause a cam shaft timing correlation issue. So this is the unit for the driver side over here.

Let's get this unit. uh, this thing wiggled into position here and then we'll move on that other side. Get these guys back together. Please go in there.

I'm trying not to collect a bunch of dirt on the end of this. Got to sneak it past the fuel line here. We'll spin it, We'll insert it and in your home. please.

There we go. Now we're cooking. I Think Rot row I Have made an eror this is the incorrect side. This one goes over there.

I Must have somehow someway gotten those flippy flopped. So here we'll just put this one around. Switch it to the passenger side. Ah, nice little snap into position.

The bolt hole here is lining up good. Let's get this bolt in. I Know you can't see my my bolt flange action here. It's a super tight squeeze down that hole.

Ah I'm losing it. I'm losing it fellas. Oh see that look at there. That hose clamp's like digging into my finger.

Here we go. now we're getting started. That's tough to do. nice and easy.

There we go. This is one of those situations where you just kind of close your eyes and go to a happy place. It'll be over soon. You can't do this with one finger cuz you try puts a like a nasty side load on your Fastener creates extra friction.

Then you'll get muscle fatigue in your metacarpal and your carpal also known as flanges. not to be confused with your tarel and metat tarsals. Do you guys know where your tarsel are? There we go! I Know where your tarsel are. Okay, so let's hook up.

let's get our connector reconnected back to reality. back to normaly back to the task at hand. Let's get this side reconnected and I'm on a waiting game for the other solenoid I do not have Oky does back where we started x amount of time has passed and we have another actuator solenoid unit. So let's uh, shove that one down in its home.

wiggle her in C o-ring It went in. So much better than than how it came out. Isn't that something? I guess it didn't have a bunch of sludge sort of holding on to it. So this one.

that little bolt there. that's the fun one. Yes, I probably could get in there with an extension and I I actually might have to do that I know what you're thinking, but I've already invested in doing this the hard way. so I'm going to try that first.

I think I can do it. See, that's why I do things the hardest way possible. It's it's not that I don't realize I can do something easier. it's it's a personal skill development.

That's what it is. If I know I can do it it using a difficult method. That means that I can do it with an easier method. uh, more easier and I'm just like that.

Maybe it's a toxic trait personality flaw? Come on here we go. Now we're turning. We've got some threads to catch. See, see, that's that's more gratifying for me because I did the thing that folks think you can't do and I like to do the impossible or the the difficult.

it's The Road Less Travel. That's what it is, no pun intended I Know we're making car content. Just pick up some speed here, spin this guy down, get some torque on it, plug it in, and then we can reassemble the intake. C on.

Unfortunately, like we talked about earlier, this car just had an oil change. Uh, what I would normally like to do in this situation is run some engine oil cleaner through this thing. You know that uh, my BG stuff that some guys hate and some guys, uh, live by? Well, I would normally want to run cleaner through this and help to, uh, decoke and desludge this engine. but since the oil was just changed at another shop, uh, moments ago, I'm not going to be able to do that.

not really moments ago. But you know what? I'm saying. Okay, three more fascinators coming in now. No.

I'm not going to put a new throttle body gasket on this. We talked about that earlier on reusable gaskets. It's not Cork and it's not paper. it's made of an O-ring F And in this particular application, it's okay to reuse that gasket.

Good. All right, that Gu is in. let's get our intake box back together. Uh, one thing I noticed I Want to point out right here.

In the end of it, there is a vac nipple and right over here there is a vacuum hose. I Did not notice that when we disassembled this earlier. so I have to make a mental note to not forget to plug that guy back in. There goes flashlight flashlight.

Gravity is strong with this one. So here we'll take our box, slip that in and it's got two mounting bolts. one here and one up here. so we we'll slip those bolts into position.

get these guys tightened. Next trickes twice. We have a PCV hose right down here. slide that on where' this one go.

This one goes up here to our mass air flow sensor, snap that in and then the throttle body connector right there. Good Good good. Let's go around the back and get a hold of or plug in rather that little vacuum tube that was down there I think it goes I can't see it but I can feel it here. we go vacuum tube in position good.

Let's toss our K&N in and then we can restart the engine. So what we'll do. Stick that guy back in its position. H How did this? uh how' this go? Did it go like this? Does it go in the lid first? Sure does.

and then on the back side here. see it's got those little fingers, those little tabs or whatever. those slip into the grooves on the box and then it will hinge that way. Then we clip it together.

Ohyah Beau Them all right real quick. Let's toss the engine cover back in. slide this unit into position right here. We've got our our Acorn nut set that guy up now.

I know when this thing came in we did not have a bolt here but I'm going to put one there because why not? Pckage There we go. let's go hit the key. restart this unit. All right off to the cabin.

we go. let's hop on in here. restar things the engine. Pretty sure this is going to go without fail.

beginning engine stoping sequence. now. All right. so far so good.

She starts, she runs, let's do a quick leak check I don't mean I we're going to see we're not going to see anything, but you should still always take a look. Make sure I didn't break the coolant line or something along those lines I don't see anything running out of it. Good to go. Let's go fetch the scanner device.

clear these trouble codes and I think this thing is uh, going to be all set for all right scanner coming in powering on. We'll use our little Illuminator on the end here to find, uh, find that DLC connector that's up there. plug it in, plug it in. All right, pulling our vehicle back up.

We're just going to go back back into engine real quick. Like come on. engine codes only and current. Let's just see what's there: Cam shaft position, actuator, a circuit bank to okay, maybe that thing set cuz I had it unplugged.

Uh, let us? Oh yeah yeah. I keyed it on to get the mileage when I had the thing disconnected or Lauren did. So we're just going to clear that out. Yes, Yes yes.

Dtcs ER rased lights are off. Good to go. Let's go ahead and power it down. One more restart, checking for the lights and off we're good.

Beautiful. Uh, can't do anything with the TPMS on this because uh, we found that this thing has aftermarket wheels and the sensors were not installed so it will need to have a a new set of Sens is installed in the wheels. Uh I don't do tire work here so I'm not going to be able uh to acist that request. that's uh, got to go to the tire shop for that.

Uh, Regardless, I'm about 9,000 confident that we found and fixed the problem with the BBT system on this. V6 Toyota We've got one more test drive to go on I need to move some cars out of the way cuz my service Drive is jammed up. Uh, we have done plenty of test drives on this car while we were diagnosing it. so I'm not taking you guys with me.

So having said all that, I'm to go ahead and close this video out right now. I Will do such things as always by thanking each and every one of you for watching this video. I Certainly hope you enjoyed this video. If in fact, you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below.

Do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there and most importantly, have yourselves a great day! See you guys later! Thank you for watching Hope to see you on the next one in the video in Toyota In the transmission.