Ladies and gentlemen, boys and girls viewers of all ages. Good day to you! Welcome back! I'm glad you guys are here. glad you guys are here I know I am super glad to be here. Uh, we are actually uh I'm filming this on Black Friday day we were on our way home from our Thanksgiving ve festivities and I decided I needed to take a little detour uh to the shop.

we're kind of closed today but I'm not I'm I'm working uh I am here today because I wanted to make a little bit more progress on said project Silvero which has been affectionately renamed the Escar. I think it's Escar cuz it's Silverado with Escalade Parts in it. So we are now calling it an Escar. Just a quick update for the uninitiated on this particular 2007.

duly: Silverado with the 66 Durama Max Uh, this thing uh has been my personal vehicle for quite some time. It's got about 240,000 m mil on the odometer I believe and it looks like we have about 232,000 that and since it needed to be redone I had to pull out the seats uh, front and rear in order to get the headliner to fit through the doorway and since I had the seats out I decided to go ahead and replace the carpet and since I was replacing the carpet, I figured I would go ahead and pull the dash out because this truck has had a restriction in the evaporator core uh for a couple years now and since I had the dash out I decided I wanted to convert the dash to a Cadillac Escalade Dash which came with the Uh, the larger passenger side grab handle as well as the wood grain finish that came on The Cadillacs especially the Platinum Edition Cadillac Here let me grab the old Silverado grab handle and I'll show you uh what I'm talking about real quick. If we were to compare the two grab handle units, you can see that the Escalade version is vastly Superior in its shape appearance. It also has some stitching on the L it looks better over here I like the squared away uh front gauge bezel or Dash bezel rather.

and since I was going to go ahead and do the dash swap to get the Escalade components I ended up finding some Escalade Platinum vents which have the Chrome on them and the little uh the raised uh uh grip surface so you can adjust your vents. and since I was doing the Cadillac swap for the dash and the vents, I decided to go ahead and do the Cadillac swap on the center console as well. but I didn't stop there I ended up upgrading the Uh armrest cover to one a unit that came out of a Yukon Denali that also had stitching and dual compartments. Now this thing right here was the fun part.

Uh, the issue is is the Cadillac Escalades were built on a Chevy Tahoe platform and because they were built on a Tahoe platform, the rear passenger compartment had its AC vents located in the ceiling but on the crew cab Silverado The rear AC came through some vents that were part of the center console. So what I had to do was take my old center console, remove the wiring harness, the AC Vents and the Uh interior Uh storage space area I had to cut it apart and super hot glue and I'm going to have to refinish this with some Bondo fiberglass and some paint at some point. but I had to create a new center console storage compartment that had the cutout that accommodated the rear AC vents that way I wouldn't have to lose the rear AC Uh by performing the Uh Escalade center console swap. Additionally, on the Escalades and I think the Yukons had it.

Also, this was supposed to have been a Uh like a CD changer or some kind of equalizer, something like that. So what I had done is I found a fellow on eBay and he creates 3D printed Uh storage Pockets to delete and eliminate Uh certain features that came uh came Factory on the vehicles uh I've also removed the cigarette ashtray and the cigarette lighter I've taken the space where the the lighter used to be and installed a dual USB charging port which connects to Uh the radio which also got replaced somewhere in in the mix. Um, these came Factory equipped with a double D Radio and on this one I have also converted it to another little cubby hole. uh where I can store things in there and the cool thing about that is is this little head unit will slide up and down.

Watch this and so if I were to place an item inside of that cubby, I can just slide that down. A couple clicks and this will retain the item that is inside of the cubby. if it's a larger item, smaller items, um, those will fall out, but anything larger like a handheld type of item. you can just put that thing right inside of there and it'll be a be kept nice and safe.

So since I had done all of those Cadillac swaps I couldn't stop there and I felt compelled to continue the theme and I acquired a set of door panels from a Cadillac Escalade I think it was the ESV which was the version that was built on a suburban and the reason I had to use an ESV is since this is a crew cab truck. it has a full-sized rear door where the normal Escalades they uh again they were built on the Tahoe platform and the rear doors had a cut out here that was uh supposed to accommodate part of the wheel well because they had a much shorter wheelbase. but since this is a crew cab, I had to Source these panels out of an an ESV Now clearly these are the wrong color. We could not get the Uh 922 or 9 was it I think it was color code 922 or 921.

We could not get the correct color code that matched the conversion colors so I had to get these in the Uh I think it's the I52 color code which also came with the wood grain and that's why I bought them uh I had to get these in the tan color or Shale rather and we had to I have to disassemble these and then paint them. Now this right here is the before version. uh like I had mentioned I I I did this swap on these door panels because it came with the chrome trim around the Uh the speaker covers. It came with stitching on the armrest and it also came with stitching uh on the panel itself.

And the other difference other than the wood grain is we have these metal inserts right here around the leather for where the door lock is supposed to be on the nonplatinum. Escalade versions that uh, that metal strip was not there. oh the carpet as well I did this for the carpet but the carpet normally isn't there. You never got the wood grain and you sure did not get stitching.

but I wanted all of those uh, extra higher end luxury features to go with my Cadillac Dash So I ended up finding and locating a set of door panels. Now that sounds easier than it really was. Um I've spent weeks and months and hours sourcing these parts. This door panel over here started its life as that door panel over there and I have taken it apart, refinished it, painted it with some vinyl paint, and then reassembled So we're a little off on the color on uh on our speaker covers, but I think the rest of it is almost exact on point and color matched with the rest of the uh, the components inside of the vehicle.

So what I want to do today and what we're going to do on this video is I'm going to reassemble this panel over here which has been freshly repainted it used to look like this one. We're going to get the remainder of these components on that panel I Think yeah, those are dry by now I Just painted these a couple hours ago. We're going to get these panels all set up, reassembled back on this unit right here and we're going to swap this one over. and I think this is the right rear door I believe Yep, so this is what we're starting out our life as we've got just plastic plastic, no carpet.

Very basic right here. There's nothing fancy about it. the uh, my switch is gone, but no wood grain, no wood grain, no stitching. So these old panels are coming off and we're going to assemble, rebuild, restore, and reinstall a uh custom One of a Kind transferred over donor panel.

By the way, if anyone is wondering, I'm using dupli color not sponsored and I'm getting or I'm using the vinyl and fabric uh, specialty coating for the vinyls on the dashes uh as well as the claw and Le all these components. I'm using two different colors uh, one of them is the Hvp 109 medium gray and the other is the Hp11 charcoal gray and those are supposed to be Factory matched stained colors to Uh to go with what the original color codes were supposed to be um in the Cadillac. So I'm trying to color match these with the spray paint as best as possible. So one more thing I want to mention as we get started.

uh I owe a bunch of people here an apology because I last left off when I was stripping out the interior on this truck and I had the dash out of it and the dash was actually hanging uh from the cab with a uh like a ratchet strap. the wiring harness was out of it thing was a total mess and I I did not make any videos of removing, moving, or reinstalling uh that Dash as well as the Hbac Box Um, the problem was is it was very long, meticulous work. It was lack of well, for lack of a better term, it was boring. Uh, it did not flow very well.

I it was an on andof type of project and there it wasn't really a situation that was conducive, uh, towards filming or making a good video. So unfortunately I did not record any of that. I'm really sorry for those of you who wanted to see it. uh, trust me, it really wasn't worth it, you know I felt bad and I still feel bad.

but I just uh I wasn't comfortable filming that and therefore I did not. So if you were really looking forward to that, I'm I'm super sorry I couldn't accommodate it, but um, that's just kind of how it all worked out. So I do not know if you guys can see the details in this, but I'm a little light on the paint from this angle I've sprayed it from this angle and this angle and very light coats and that angle. I think I need to get one more coat on this.

Yeah, we can see under here, it's very light. This part doesn't matter. Uh, a little light right there. So I'm going to give this one more coat of paint I didn't get anything down here and after that coat gets laid down, gets laid down.

We'll start to get the armrest and the leather uh and the speaker covers and whatnot all back in position. So let's hit this thing with the uh, the rattle can real quick and then uh, we will proceed to assemble. Oh by the way, if anybody would like some of this duple color, um I will leave an Amazon link. uh to a store that has duper color paint down in this video's description.

uh, if I can find any, however, you'll have to Source your own color when you get there. I'll just link like a black or a gray or something. It's just a generic color. uh and that'll lead you in the right direction.

So if you want to take on a similar project on your own, uh, you can start with the correct colored paint. Let's give this a couple sprays here. I Painted the carpet too. This is good for fabric.

Promise this will be the the most boring part is just me painting and then we're going to get right onto the assembly afterwards. There we go. You know it's a little cool today. This paint's going to have a hard time drying, but it'll be okay.

It's just the bottom of a door panel. Get some whisps of paint in there. get her even. I'm good with that.

Very nice, all right. One more little light coat evenly across the uh faceee of the panel here and we will. uh, we'll get the Leathers reinstalled and the wood grain and all that other fancy Dancy Escalade stuff. One thing about this paint right here.

it must be constantly rattled and shaken or it'll start to separate and you'll get two different colors coming out. That's not okay. A little bit more up top. I'm just kind of trying to get it all even looking there.

We go. All right. Let me let this get dry for about 10 15 minutes and then we'll start to uh, install the two-ton uh, armrest and leather. All right.

So this paint has been setting up for about 10 or 15 minutes. I'm going to go ahead and start reassembling now. I Want to point out this area right here. This is supposed to be the red reflector and they just kind of snap in.

This one actually broke and we took it out. but that is of no matter because I ended up ordering and you guys may have noticed this earlier. Some uh I think they're Chinesium, but some Led marker lights. Uh, for the front doors, see the LEDs in there Now The rear doors did not have any kind of lighting, they just had the reflector.

But these things came as a set of four and I do believe that the ones with the lights will also fit in that same hole. However, they don't snap in very well because they are in fact Chinesium. So what I'm going to do is fire up the hot glue gun. We're going to set these things in position real quick, glue them in with the Uh industrial Automotive strength.

The yellow hot glue, not the white hot glue. The yellow. It's the better stuff. So we're going to set this thing in first and hot glue it.

We'll leave the connector alone. I'm not going to run the electrical section of this just yet I may run the wire through the door jam while the panels are off, but I'm not going to connect these because I'm going to have to run an entire circuit. uh, probably either to the the front door circuits uh or to the uh, the dome light circuit. I'm not sure how I want to power these Uh, but I do have to tap into another circuit because they're I do not believe there is a um a power supply coming into that door.

uh that actuates when the door is opened or closed I know the front doors have that, but I don't think the rears do so I'll need to look into that before uh, actually wiring this up but I will prep it and get it all set up and then we can come back in later on and wire the things up. Okay, so I want to snap this in as best I can before I glue it and it's not going to go. Oh, it's a little too long. You guys see that it's a little too long right here and let me reach and get some.

Cutters just kind of trim that off a little bit. Flush cuts are Fantastic Tools Okay, there we go, so that fits flush, but it's not going to snap in all right. Taking a look at it from the back side, we can see there's a little Tab and another little tab that's supposed to engage the panel pieces, but they do not. So what I'm going to try to do is just run a screw through this starting from the back right here at the bottom.

If I can get it through at least one of the runs of plastic, that would be great. I'll try to aim it to go through both and then I'll glue it in around the perimeter so this is going to be a permanent install. See if I can't pull this off with a with a screw gun I Don't know, maybe maybe not H probably not. ha Nano micro surgery with wood screws from Home Depot If I can get it to bite, I should be able to get it through the plastic on the light here and that's not going to work.

Okay, that was a failure. Looks like we're going to rely solely on the glue that's this is too brittle for screws and I'm not going to take the time to go through it and drill pilot holes and stuff. So change of plans. Just going to hold this from the back side with my flanges and we're going to load it up with the industrial strength hot glue.

Get in there nice and deep. Like there we go. it should dry and Harden and cool fairly quickly. Little bit on this side.

There we go. Nice, all right. So I've been standing here for a couple of minutes and that glue is starting to harden up. I'm going to get a little bit more just on this other side.

even though it did clip in, couldn't hurt to load a little bit more glue in there. I have like a 100 sticks of this yellow glue so I don't need to be too sparing with it. There we go. That's good.

Okay, so that is complete. we can leave that alone for the time being. Ah, blemishes in my brand new finish. Oh no, the glue ruined my finish.

No matter. I'll mask that off and then, uh, respray it real quick. It's fine. Mix it up and spray it first before applying.

but look, it's like it never happened. There we go. no problem. Here comes the re.

Oh you guys are going to be so mad at this I pulled the tape before it was dry. No? all right. I'll quit trolling so we've got some Fasteners that's a my been of fasteners for when I took apart the Leathers Let's go ahead. I Think we have to do the back panel first right here.

I think yeah because it's supposed to be stapled down to uh the door panel. so all we've got to do is line the little pegs up with all the holes in the actual door panel. then we can flip it around and secure it with few these little plastic gravity little plastic type cutting self threading. Fasteners They're not really a bolt, but they look like a bolt.

Basically what they do is grip onto these plastic studs that are sticking out here and they just, uh, just kind of thread down. Very easy to strip. So we're going to use the small impact gun. one click, maybe two trigger control.

So here, bear with me. let's throw the rest of uh these Fasteners on real quick. and then we'll flip this panel around and get the uh, the armrest bolted in. Once the armrest is on I think we'll oh yeah, we have to throw the speaker covers on, reassemble those with their uh, the chrome trim.

We'll get that into place and those are those speakers are actually tabbed in. There's little metal tabs that stick out that go through these slots and then when you pass through, you have to just bend the tabs back. They were, uh, they were stapled at first. Um, I don't really feel the need to raple everything that was unstapled.

so we're just going to skip that part of reaping the upholstery. It seemed a little redundant. so I don't think I need to do it and I don't know if I have an upholstery stapler I'll tell you what I will check and if I have one then I will staple it and if I don't then I will not staple it. Sound good? We got a deal good clicks? Yeah, all you got to do is bottom these out.

They just create a little bit of force. little bit of tension on the plastic studs. There we go. flip her around and that is our end result.

Two-tone Gray with stitching all faux leather? Yeah, look at here. this was originally stapled. that little flap right there that was originally stapled down to the panel. I don't think I need it because once I place the armrest into that position, it'll sandwich that leather down.

But I'll see if I have a staple gun. so I can at least put a couple back. If I do have a stapler, it might be my swing line. Where's my swing line stapler stapler? But then they switched from the swing line to the Boston stapler.

but I kept my swing line stapler. Have you seen my stapler? I have not seen my stapler. It's a swing line. Yeah.

Negative: I don't think I have it h I know that I have a Pneumatic stapler but I think it's in my trailer I have a manual one around here. Manual Stapler Yeah. Stapler stapler. No.

Victory might be at hand I do have my pneumatic stapler however. I Don't know if it's going to work because I have not stapled with this stapler in a very, very long time. It's probably been several, many, multiple years, but let's see if it's going to run. Set it down.

Fire. Oh, it works. Yes fire nice. I'm rest stapling that which I had unstapled.

Cool. That's good I like it and looks like there was one. There's one right there which I can't I can't get the nope that's not going to fit in the hole there. Okay, well better than nothing I Guess Okay let's set the pan panel back down and we're going to go ahead and grab the armrest that's going to slip through the door panel in looks like three locations so let's line that up.

Taking care to not uh not hurt my finish here. we could just kind of twist push it in there we go and on the back side let's see what we' got here. Yep it came through on the back so we need to install the Fasteners There's one screw, two and couple in the front there so a few little screws here there. Let us start with the one located in the middle.

That way it'll draw that armrest down and line up the uh, the other two or three screws that are left over. These are 7 mil or 930 seconds. They both kind of work. Let's get this back one in right.

Good. Taking a look at the other side, it's nice and even like looks good I like it. Let's get the last Fastener in I think two more up front. Okay so I now have my armrest installed complete with wood grain repainted refinished.

We've got the reflector in the carpet's been painted. Let's get the speaker cover installed and set into its position. So these speaker covers these are actually cloth wrapped and they're metal graded see that's metal there wrapped in some kind of a decorative cloth. Now, the original ones did not have the cloth over them.

However, the originals are slightly larger than the Escalade Platinum covers because the Escalade Platinum covers are there are built to accommodate the Chrome uh surround or the Chrome perimeter trim. Um, my choices are to uh, leave the cloth on the ones and keep the Chrome and what that's going to do is actually create a slight color variation because this is cloth and it was kind of stained and putting paint on it wasn't exactly the cleanest paint. it is vinyl and cloth and fabric paint. but it it just didn't do.

it. didn't do as well as I as I hoped it would. So I can either leave this in a different tone or I can pull the cloth off and just repaint this. However, I'm I'm reluctant to do that because it might leave some glue and uh in residue behind.

but my motivating factor here and I'm going to make a decision in a minute is if we go back to the front door which I had thought I completed. We can actually tell there's quite a bit of color difference between the cloth colored section and the the painted smooth cleaned up section So I tell you what. I I'm going to I'm going to go ahead and pull the cloth off and paint it and just use the metal without the decorative plot. One more last minute modification.

see. this is why this project is taking forever. because I changed my mind on the fly with everything. So yeah, we are going to lose.

I'm going to lose all this cloth covering I will have to take that front door back apart and redo the speaker cover. but I think in the long run this is going to be a better option. Yeah, I'll just have to paint this real quick and wait for it to dry before I put it back together. Okay, almost close there a little bit more right here.

it's glued on something fierce. Okay, what do you guys think? Yeah. I I think I'm going to paint this and then we'll install the Chrome surround directly on the grate without the cloth. I like that better I mean it's not that I really have a choice cuz I've already torn the thing off so let's just go with it.

This is going to be hard to see on camera I Can tell you that right now it's it's hard to see in real life but we're taking this from the hand I52 color code to the 922 gray color code. I Know I should be hanging this with a hanger, but little bit of paint never hurt anybody. That's good. Okay, let me let this thing dry for a moment and then we'll get the Chrome surround installed and then we'll get this whole unit onto the panel.

All right. 15 minutes later, this is dry enough to touch Dri kind of quick. I'm not going to put a bunch of pressure on it, but it's not leaving a residue on my flanges. So all we need to do with this piece is just line up uh, that tab right here and push it through.

Do that one and then the one more on the bottom side. Push that through. We'll Bend those tabs down that will be securing the graded piece to the Chrome surround, just kind of bend it down a little bit and the other side we just push it in, give it some downward pressure, bend it, wrap it around. Here we go.

Now that is secured. All these remaining Tabs are here to secure this assembly to the panel. So what we need to do, make sure that all lines up. That looks good, not bad at all.

All righty. So before I get this installed on my rear door panel, Uh, I want to address my while I'm in there syndrome and what I'm referring to is I Got this nasty habit of adding things on while I'm in the middle of something else Now, since I've had these panels off, uh, earlier. I ended up reinstalling or installing a new set of speakers because my old speakers on this truck had been blown up. Uh, the fronts received new ones as well and those speakers came with sets of tweeters.

So on the front of this vehicle, they come with uh, tweeters in the A pillars. there's one right there and another one over on the other side. I I've got a set of uh, crossover filters and two more tweeters that came with the rear speakers. What I'm going to do is install these tweeters cuz they're super low profile.

I'm going to drill a hole somewhere under this panel and install these tweeters to compl M the speakers that are currently in the door. Now these little mini speakers. They came with a kind of a unique little mounting system I Don't know if it's going to work, it may end up being too deep and I'll have to, uh, default to the hot glue. But let's try the mounts out first and see what happens.

We need to snap these into the first stage. should just kind of Click when they get ready when they go in. Yep, there we go. So what I need to do is drill a hole large enough to accommodate this diameter right here here.

Pass that through and then on the back side, we put this other cone over it to secure it and then just kind of screw it down. All right. loud noises coming in. going to drill a hole in this and then I'm going to dremel I'm going to dremel it all out to uh, make the hole larger.

Goodbye brand new paint. Little speed. Okay, we'll cut through this some with a carbide and then I'll finish it off with a flap wheel to make the uh a smooth diameter. it's melting more Ping my bit flew out.

that might have been too much more. Well, that little carbide is gone and I mean it's like forever gone. never to return. Kind of gone on.

Then I'll find it one day, but that should be enough. I can just smooth that out with this little flap wheel right here and we should have the proper hole to fit. Yep, let's just round this out some and we're good. Ah, perfect.

Nice. that's flush, perfectly fitting. that's going to work. Let's get the uh.

all this dust and whatnot out of here. Low gun action, Loud. Noisy. Okay, we'll take our cone and the Tweeter snap that thing back into position.

There we go now. I did not put tweeters on the front like I said not in the doors anyway so that's thing that's snapped in Set You Down in the Hole there and we have one more cone that will screw onto the back of this or onto this from The Backs side and then secure it here. Let's flip this thing around again back to our back. side.

I'll tell you what I Want to set this panel down but I don't want to scratch it on this cardboard surface so throw a fender cover down on top of it to protect the paint. There we go. We'll feed the wires through goodbye label don't need you, Then this guy goes over and then it screws right in. That's how that's going to work.

Let's run this thing down. This screw is too long I need to find a shorter one I Don't think this one's going to work. It's going to stick out too far and might interfere with the the door panel. we'll see.

Okay, so the tweeter's bottomed out. See that Now what I need to do is thread this cone cuz both of these are threaded. This cone is threaded and the Tweeter down below is threaded, but if I continue to rotate that it's going to put more torque on that Fastener between the two and increase the uh clamping Force tight squeeze I think that's the last one that I get. Yep, that's good right there.

I'm good with that. All right, our hot glue gun's coming back in. We're going to throw some glue on this so it won't be able to rotate and unthread itself. Later on, we call it thread lock.

I'll even put it on the threads for the Fastener Right there there we go. Now that unit's hot glued in, but we're not finished yet. We still have to install the crossover filters. is one of these units right here? Basically what this does is it will filter out certain tones to that speaker.

See, this is a very small speaker and it's only designed for high pitch. but when you hook this up to a regular channel uh, on your on your radio, um, it will try to produce the lower pitch sounds as well. so you can install a filter. It's called a high pass filter and it will basically just, uh, remove those lower frequencies so that this speaker will only produce sound in the higher frequency level.

Good way to balance the system now. I've checked for spacing already for this unit and it appears if I use this back door as an example. It appears that there's plenty of space right here on the back side to mount that unit. I can see back in there with a light.

There's all kinds of area for to mount it to. It's a flat surface and this thing has an adhesive backing on it. So we're just going to stick that right here here and that's where it's going to live right about. Let's say, right there.

Then we can wire it up and get it in position. Now we've got an output that's going to run straight to the Tweeter down below us. And here's our inputs here. We've got a ground and then we've got three options to select our decel filter leveling that's 0 -2 and ne4 I'm not sure which one I want to use, but we can determ that later.

So what I think I'll do is just stick it. Oh, how do I want to do this I want to leave room to where I can reach my electrical connectors? There's one here for the light and then the one on the other side. so I'm thinking right there should be good. We'll give that a good press and since the hot glue gun's fired up and I'm not going to drill holes in this, we can throw some glue under there.

Also glue this bad boy in that way it doesn't vibrate and come loose, fall out, rattle around in the door. Things of that nature, All the undesirable behaviors by the way. Speaking of hot glue, I Never could have accomplished this project without a hot glue gun. I Didn't realize how valuable of a tool it was going to end up being, but it has proven to be most valuable.

Yeah, that's a lot of glue, but I don't care here. we have another wire so while this glue sets up, what I'm going to do is just kind of pre-wire this. We're going to go from the output straight down to the Tweeter Now we're going to use red Positive Black Negative: it's kind of normal I think plug in probably should have plugged this in before I glued it down. but no going back now, right? right? Okay, those guys are connected.

Yipper. that's good to go now. What I'll do is I will hot glue this wire to the panel and then make a connection over there at the Tweeter there's some glue piece of metal right there just like that and then over here to the right piece of metal. Again, there's some glue.

It might all come off later, but at least I tried right? Good. We'll let all that set up. Let's make a turn here. See how I'm following that line straight to the speaker? right there.

It's kind of the goal. so what I'll do is one more piece of metal here to hold it down or not stay held down please. ow I bur my finger h yeah I'll just leave that alone till it sets up. There we go.

It doesn't have to be flush. I'm just trying to secure the wire so it doesn't flop around everywhere. Oh, over time and I get it. That's a lot of glue.

I Know, let's see what it does good. We'll leave that one alone. for now. pull this one off.

Good good. Okay, since I'm in the business of Overkill why not going to melt my wires that? Yeah, yeah yeah, that's super secure. It's like 1,000% mad scientist. Behavior So now all I need to do is cut these and splice this wire in Secure it a little bit and then I think this will be all set up.

Oh no, you know what? I'm need to run one more wire to to this unit that's going to connect to the speaker wire in the door. I'll have to do that all right. We have increased our level of hardening here so I think we're good to go ahead and start making electrical connections here. Let's chop off those cable ends that it will not be necessary.

I'm going to leave some slack in this connection here. We'll chop these guys off, split them, and strip them there. Don't need that. Do need this.

What kind of strippers are these? I've never I've not used this pair just yet. They seem to be just manual strippers. H Too small. I'll use the aut coatic strippers.

There we go. Two down, two to go. Ah, that one failed. Only stripped halfway.

Beautiful! Okay, so we're going to make these connections with some self soldering connectors. Probably should have slid these over before I stripped them. but I'm the type that can't see the forest because the trees are in the way. Sometimes not all the time, but sometimes slide that right on through.

There we go. And now what I need to do is take these units here. shove them together. See how we did that? We shoved the The Fray ends together.

Me give it some twist to clean it up. then we'll slide the self soldering heat shrink over the connection like that and I'm kind of in a hurry so I'm just going to go in with the lighter. normally I'd use a heat gun here but the lighter will suffice. The the downside is is it leaves a uh little bit of soot over the heat shrink which I can live with it.

We're fine. Okay, the heat shrink is heat shrunk. Let's do this other side real quick like and then we can glue down this wire and we'll head over and get this panel installed after we do the cover. I'm excited! Each one of these panels usually takes me about 2 to 4 hours I think to complete or what it's going to take I did the first one in about 2 hours.

Please twist there. It's like micro surgery with giant fingers. but I guess that's the thing with custom work. It takes time.

This whole project has taken more time than I had ever anticipated. y see that solder start to flow. it's low temp solder. I think 300 is when it goes.

Let's throw some more glue in the mix here. H Standby technical difficulties there. That's what I wanted to do. uhuh and we'll do a little bit over here.

a lot of bit over here there. Good to go. Okay, we'll let that set up and then we can get that panel reinstalled All right. I have fast forwarded through time ever so slightly while uh, that glue was setting up I went ahead and connected another wire to the filter, Followed it around the original line and it's going to terminate right over here where I'll be able to tie it in to the speaker wire that is actually on the door.

So once I get that panel off I need to put two more connectors on this, connect it to our speaker, and then this thing will be connected with the audio system in the truck. So I've got a little bit of extra glue that I threw on here as well for that second wire. While that's setting up, let's head over to the truck and pull off the other door panel now. I Realize we've been looking uh, and focusing on the left side door panel.

The one that I'm actually working on belongs on the right rear over here. So what we need to do is get the bolts out of this unit. I Believe there's two, one right here and one down there and we'll pop off the rest of the trim This guy right here and we can get this panel out of position all right. Two more.

Fasteners They're 93 seconds or 7 mm there. the one right in front of us. It's kind of hidden under the panel or handle. Rather, let's pull this guy out with a quickness.

I Know this part's kind of boring and the lighting is a little dark. sorry there's our screw and the smaller one down here on the lower left hand, left hand corner. Pull that guy out. Once these two are gone, we just grab the whole panel, lift up on it, and then it becomes free from the door.

There's our screw. Let's grab the whole panel assembly and lift. wiggle and it's free with the exception of the wire for the door switch. Get in here and pop that guy out there.

We go. Got it? Okay, door is disconnected and numeral P There we go and look at here. It even has an output for a tweeter. So all I've got to do is kind of plug that in, run the wire out, and then I'll plug it in on the back side of the panel there.

Very good. Okay, so I've got another piece of wire splice that came with those speakers and this is a male and female kind of extension lead. So what I'll do is we're going to go ahead and plug in our positive and negative to our Tweeter output here and here. and I think rather than smashing this wire, Yeah, yeah, I know what I'll do here.

I'm going to take this wire, run it back and then under and through. like tying your shoes that way. I don't have to smash it between the speaker and and the door cuz that's just. uh, it's just kind of gross.

We don't want to do that. Very good right there. now. let's go ahead.

we'll put our screws back in, rescure the speaker, and what we've accomplished here is there's a wire lead now exposed that I can connect to the door now. I Know this is kind of a good opportunity to run the wire for that light, but realistically, it's getting kind of late in the day and I don't want to run the wire for that light, so I'm not going to. I'll have to take off the uh, dillar trim this trim right here. I'll have to pull apart this harness, take the plastic insulation off the door.

That's actually going to be quite a bit of extra work. and I I just don't have that kind of time right now I need to go home Here we go get that one in. I Think all the hot glue is now cured and dried up on the panel. One more task on this door panel and we're ready to get it installed and that's just going to be our speaker.

Grill Where the whole thing started from and again, we've got the tabs that slip through the little notches or the holes, the cutouts, whatever you want to call them. You slip this thing through, pull it tight, and then finalize its securement. It's going to be a little awkward here, but bear with me. we've got to get all these tabs lined up simultaneously and then they'll start to, uh to push through.

So I've got the three over here. Four, one up top is close and then these two on the bottom. Those are giving me a little bit of a little bit of grief here. Grab some needl nose, get a hold of those metal tabs.

woohoo and dropped the panel. That could have sucked. Let's try that again. There we go.

Here we are. now. we're slipping in. You see that? Go in.

That was perfect. Grab it, pull it, make it tight. Bend it and I'll repeat with the next one. Pull it and bend it.

pull and bend. Yeah, it just relies on the on the metal bending action to secure all this. I actually may throw a couple staples in these to really lock them down. I Don't want them to vibrate.

It'll make weird horrible noises. that would be bad. Okay, looks good, nice and even no gaps. Yeah, let's fire up that staple gun.

Hit these little tabs here with a couple staples and I think we're we're going to be all set here. Staple: Cannon Coming in, not going to go too crazy with the Staples I Just want a couple of them on there. H Did not penetrate. Barely penetrated.

Okay, so yeah, looks like I'm going to do like one or two Staples and that will be all. Yep, that's secure. We're good here. All right.

One final inspection of the handiwork here and it's looking magnificent to my eye. This is. this is good. All right.

let's get This over to the truck. We'll get her installed and I think we're going to call it a day after we get to get to view the finalized product panels coming in. That one's plugged in another. Both of these ends here are insulated so it's actually kind of hard to get.

Uh, get the connection made? That's good. I Guess it's good that they're insulated, you don't want them shorting out. It'll ruin your day. Okay, good to go.

that's all set. We'll tuck the spare wire down below this little flap business right here. Get our panel in position I Need to reach behind and plug in the connector. It's for the window switch.

Okay, setting this thing up in position here. It's got four tabs that hang on to it. You have to slide them in and then the whole panel will go down. Nope.

Slightly off up here in the front side. That one's not connected. Good. Okay, we're down to two screws, two screws, and one piece of trim.

I'm so excited. Let's get these guys installed. Run that one down and then the last one goes right up in there under the uh grab handle. Can't even see it, but it's back there there it is.

Threads are catching fantastic, good check, and one final piece of trim also painted to match. Slip that in, snap you into place, please snap into place H where I Don't know why? set that part down first, then commin to the snapping there. Excellent in position. good to go.

Last piece is going to be the door lock selector switch the door locks. Take this guy, slide it over the peg, hinge it, push it, snap it all righty folks! I Think that's about as much work as I'm going to complete today. Uh, we've got one. Well actually now this is number two.

This is the second panel that has been completed uh on the truck, so both of the right side ones are done. The only thing I'm missing on this one is going to be the wiring for This little light right here. It's kind of a bonus feature so I can handle that later. So this side's complete, that side's complete.

Uh I think over the next uh few days or so I can go ahead and get the driver door and I'll get the left rear door as well. So tomorrow looks like I'm stripping down more panels uh, in my free time or off time and then, uh, once those are done I can prep those, get them painted, res secured, put back together, hot, glued in and back to and reinstalled onto the truck as well. Again, you guys I Apologize for cutting you out a little bit on the dash install. Um, let me know if you want to see any of the work.

Any additional work on the dash on this I Still have to put the knee bolster in on that side the glove box on this side I Need to run a trailer brake control module up to that little custom gauge pod that went in uh up top after that I'm going to have to wire in all the relays that go to those switches is that are located out back inside of the toolbox. Actually, you know what? I'll just show you. so I've got an entire fuse and relay assembly and these are going to be what powers my solenoid for my rear battery. uh, the fuel pump or the transfer pump, the rear flood light, the front flood light, and anything else I want to put on the circuits I think I've got like six circuits here anyway guys I think that's uh all I have for you on this particular video.

Having said that, as always, like to thank you for watching this video I Certainly hope you enjoyed this video. Let me know what you think about this project and my color scheme. uh in the comment section down below, do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there. and most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day! See you guys later in a video into of interior the door panel into silvery radio into transmission.