See, look at that even Dave can Master the corner of death. How about that? Hello everybody! good day to you and welcome back! Super glad you guys are here I know I'm glad to be here. This is a Nissan Pathfinder I believe it is up the 2017 variety. Nope 2015 according to our sticker right there 2015 Nissan Pathfinder she has 10 19,95 miles on the ometer.

uh customer States They just came from the dealership and the dealership wrote them a laundry list of an estimate and it has come to us for a secondary opinion on set estimate because it was in uh I think it was a it was a four fig estimate uh not counting change. Uh one of the things on set estimate was the scheduled maintenance for the spark plugs and ignition components I believe those things were like priced out at nearly $1,000 on this engine. Uh I guarantee you I can do this job for for less than $1,000 So um what I managed to end up with was we decided to we were going to replace these spark plugs. we put some front tires on it.

This all happened off Uh, not on a video. We put some front tires on there, threw some pads and rotors in there. you can see they're still brand new. They got the paint on them, did a set of brakes in the rear, and a couple other fluid exchanges.

Uh I Saved the best for last. So what we are going to do in this video is uh pull this engine cover off. We're going to remove the intake manifold. this is a V6 engine.

so there's three cylinders here and there's three cylinders there in the back side. So we're going to pull this intake, we're going to remove the ignition coils, and then we're going to pull the plugs out for inspection and most likely replacement. We do believe that these plugs are the originals at 109,000 Mi So let's get straight to it. Time is of the essence is this is about a 4-Hour job uping the hood.

Yeah gra, look who that guy is. All righty. So let's go ahead and get started. Uh, quick disclaimer: We're hearing a lot of grinding noises from outside.

Uh, that's just the granite countertop guys cutting pieces of countertop. so I can't do anything about it I'm trying to avoid filming while they're going, but I do share the parking lot with other folks in other businesses so I can't do much about that. We just get to tolerate it for a little while. but I try anyway.

Uh, that's not as easy to remove as I thought cuz look, there's more bolts down there so we need to pull this intake box off y her looks like we have another 10 and another 10. Buzz These guys right on out. remove our snorkel assembly. This just funnels air from I guess under the hood area down into the air box and the air filter.

Set that aside. then we've got two more tens down below right here. that one, and that one, and this right here that will allow us to remove this cover, set that thing down on top of some other Doge parts right there. And yeah, there's that, uh, conglomeration or whatever of an intake manifold.

We've got a bunch of solenoids for EVAP system stuff. That's our actual intake. We've got a runner, vacuum control, plus our tubing. And on top of all that, there's a wiper cow in the way.

So those back cylinders over there are going to be super fun to dig out. Uh, before we get started, let's go ahead and pull one of the front cylinders and we'll pop one of the plugs out. Take a look and just make sure that uh, this thing is going to need what? Uh, what the dealership said it needs. All righty.

extra long 14 mm spark plug socket coming in I think that's actually for Toyotas or whatever, but it works on Nissan as well. Ratchet coming in on click. See what this plug is looking like down in here? Okay, so we've got some denzo they are the originals and we are looking at a little bit of carbon tracking some leakage going on here and we've got uh, some decent looking amount of uh, wear and corrosion on our anode and electrodes right there. Okay, that, uh, justifies to me a warrantable replacement.

So now that we have confirmed that this is in fact a war while repair, we got a replacement plug here. It's an NGK quite suitable for the application. Let's go ahead and get this one installed real quick, like we're going to be torquing these at uh, what was the spec 19.6 newon M something along those lines, it's just under 20 foot lbs of torque. so we'll get that thing threaded down and apply some actual clicks here.

The reason I'm throwing a plug back in this guy is I don't want to remove this intake man fold right here and then give the opportunity for dirt and debris and whatnot to fall into that hole and contaminate the combustion chamber. That would be bad. So right now we're crushing the washer on the plug waiting for our tickes. There we go.

That guy is now tight. Two specified specifications. Okay, so what we'll do here: Take the ignition coil, give it some dialectric lubricant to contain any loose electrons that may May uh, may want to escape, Plug this guy back in the right way, not the wrong way and we'll throw our Fastener in there, plug it in, and we will tighten down this particular coil. Now, in the interest of time, let's get down to the meat of this business and get to the hard part first.

So what we need to do is pull out our intake: Plumbing Remove the filter box, the tubes, all the connectors harnesses things of that nature. Get all that separated from the manifold and then we can pull the manifold off, extract it, and then get to that rear Bank of plugs. All righty! So we've got two hose clamps on this tubing assembly. one right here and then the one around the back side.

Here, we'll pull that back one off of the throttle body. first. we'll try to separate it there and then just pull out that whole airbox lid as, uh, one single unit. Maybe that's the plan? I'm going to reach on back here and we're going to try to wiggle that guy loose.

It's coming off. This is good. Pull it kind of up and out. What are we hanging up on here? It's still stuck.

I Think it's stuck on maybe one of these wires. Yeah, there's some wiring in the way. Hang on here. Hey! Engineers Let me show you something.

This is the stuff we don't like. So I'm trying to get this lid out. and I've got a wire here for the mass airflow sensor. That wire is attached to the lid right there on that little bracket business.

and there's no slack in this wire because it's also attached over there to the throttle body. So I have to sneak in and somehow disconnect this wire from the airbox lid without breaking anything. and you guys just make this harder than it has to be. This is this is a silly engineering at its finest cuz I Can barely barely get to that.

You guys see that. That's just just not okay. There's there's no reason for this. What? What is this? Why would you do that? Please explain that to me.

You could have connected that up here, not down here where we can't see it. That would have been much better. And then you wouldn't have that stupid fold in your wire with some zip ties and electrical tape. It's bad form guys.

bad form. Stop doing things like back. There's just no need of it whatsoever. Give that a Twist Got to be careful with stuff like this.

Those are plaz Tec and they become brittle and you can break them. So anyway, rant over with that's our airbox lid righta now? Oh, look at that squeaky, clean throttle body that's beautiful. So now we just need to continue to disconnect electrical components. That's a throttle body body connector.

There's another little clip I need to dig out right there. that's going to be. It'll be fun to get behind, get in there, and kind of twist and walk it out. Maybe don't Oh, don't break it Ray don't break it.

That's bad form. If you break it all right, that one's loose. Ah, so look at here. We've got two coolant lines running into to that throttle body.

so I'm not going to disconnect those I don't want to spill coolant everywhere. So when it's time, I'm just going to unbolt this throttle body and then swing that aside. In the meantime, though, we need to get the rest of these connect doors disconnected. We start with uh, the EVAP solenoids here.

We got three of them. Sure, three of those guys. Then we've got the two hoses here that run over to this manifold assembly. So very carefully.

we're going to break these guys loose. See the pla. You know what? I changed my mind I was going to say see the plastic here on that solenoid. Got to be careful not to break that off.

but rather than risk it I'll detach these lines I just tore that line. Yep, ruin that. So what I'll do is unbolt this. not with that socket.

this one 10 mm. we'll unbolt it. Actually, we're going to unut it cuz it's attached with a a nut, not a bolt and we're just going to leave this solenoid attached with the hoses to this little assembly over here. this thing can stay cuz that's attached to the vacuum actuator back there.

so it looks like I need to to disconnect which one do I want here. Got a bracket? pull that off that's for this little solenoid business here and then another bracket that goes to that one. So now this assembly is partially free. it's attached back there on the rear side of the manifold somewhere.

I'll have to dig that out uh, later as well. so real quick. This uh, brake cylinder reservoir right here is kind of bothering me. I'm going to disconnect it and just move it over to the side.

It's sort of in the way. I Think this is attached to this bracket with two 10 mil nuts. Let's pull these units out and it's not really the greatest, but I tried I'm just trying to create some space to work in here and that's sort of a tall order. I think cuz this is a cramped engine compartment there.

all right bracket's loose. the Uh Reservoir is loose I want to disconnect this uh brake level sensor switch circuit that'll give us more black Here we go unplug it. Like so now we can take this ho guy and set that aside right over there and it's out of the way day. stad there we go and look here.

We have exposed our throttle body right there. It is throttle body body Fastener Time here. Let's get these guys disconnected. Get out of there should just be the four Fasteners on this unit.

Oo this one comes with its own bracket. Get it, That's two. Get that one here. Ah, give it back.

There we go. Now that's our throttle body. Let's crack that loose. Yeah, a little dirty inside, but now look what we've done here.

We have exposed a hidden 10 mm that goes to the bracket that goes to this line that goes to these solenoids that we just tried to detach. So that's a removing this throttle body was a mandator. Mandatory part of this repair procedure. All right, let's get that hidden 10 disconnected here.

There she is. So now our bracket business that's free and we can see that it is attached via this vacuum hose on the back side of this throttle body. Can you guys see that back there? There She is there. It is.

now you can see. So I just need to sneak on in here. get a hold of that clamp with some needle noses. give it a bit of a Twist action here.

Another twist incoming need to break that surface Bond There goes the flashlight. Didn't see that one coming. Now we're not going to tear this hose I've already torn up enough hose in my day I Don't want to ruin another one. so I do not know if there are vertical metal brackets that secure the back side of this intake to the cylinder head.

Um I Think what I'll do is just take all the bolts loose on the manifold here and if the thing is still attached, then we'll know if there are brackets in the back that need to be uh, reached around and then disconnected. I Don't know if they're there, they might be there. they might not be. But I do know I got to take out all these bolts and nuts right here so we'll do that next.

Multiple unclick I Think that was all of them. Sure, let's find out. Is it loose Nine? Oh yeah, yes, Yes she is. She's loose.

Okay, now, right over here. if you look up some at our 12:00 position, we can see that that bracket for that fuse block is in the way. So let's pull that guy off the firewall. Save that for later now.

I believe I should have enough enough space here to kind of Wiggle this thing out. I'm so glad there's nothing in the back really attaching it. Or uhoh, maybe there is. what? are we stuck on? Vacuum hose? perhaps? I think it's the vacuum hose for the uh, the brake booster.

the one over there. It's attaching to the rear of this manifold. Somehow some way need to reach back there and disconnect it. Yeah, yeah, yeah, yeah.

I Feel the connector right here. You guys probably can't see it. It's super dark in there. I'm on the clamp right now I can feel it and just so happens, these needle noses are reaching that clamp.

It's uh, that was not pre-planned Yeah, we'll wiggle that guy back and I'm going to try to ooh that does not want to break free I don't think I don't have a good grip on it. wiggling it with the pliers and I'm pushing back as I wiggle there detached. That is a success and something else is still holding this up here. Is there another one? Yeah there is I feel something else Oh, it is a uh, a PCV host.

There she is. There's that stupid little hose. positive crank case ventilation. Let's go ahead and get that clamp out of there.

give it some twists and actions and and we give it a Twist Move on up. Continue twist twisting and rotating cuz that breaks, uh, tension friction. There we go. Now she's Loosey Goosey Is this manifold going to come out next? Let's find out today.

now. what are we stuck on? Ah, we're stuck on this one. more vacuum hose twist. that thing? There we are.

How about now? are you? uh, you ready to come out? It's not. There's something else. What's what else is back there? Why? hey, I Found another thing that's stupid. Forgive the poor camera angle and whatnot.

But if we look around the back side of this intake, uh, we can see there is another bracket. That thing. Yeah, right there. See that bracket.

There's another bracket. and then there's an electrical connector attached to sad bracket. That's that's the best. So now I need to reach around on the back side of this unit with a, uh, a retching wrench, disconnect that bracket and then after the bracket has been removed, I can reach behind it and disconnect that electrical sensor.

which is, uh, kind of hard to do. I mean it's not hard, it's just I think it's steps that are unnecessarily engineered into this thing. Uh, it's stuff like this is why I call these Nissan the Chryslers of Japan So the reason that those valves do not have any buildup any carbon deposits on them is because this is not a GDI engine is it is not gasoline direct injection. This is a port injection engine.

You see that fuel injector right there, that one right there and that one right there. those inject directly into the ports. So when the air is moving through these, that fuel is going to be sprayed in and then that fuel is going to be carried over the top of those Valves and that fuel is a solvent. And since those valves or the tops of those valves are exposed to a gasoline solvent all the time, there's never an opportunity for carbon deposits to end up on top of the valves and on the valve stems so they stay super clean.

If this was a GDI engine and the injector was directly into the combustion chamber, there would be nothing in place to keep those valves clean and they would be all carboned and gummed up and there'd be a big thick, sludgy buildup all around. Uh, the top of that valve right there. So uh, I am a proponent for non GDI engines. Uh, they've got their benefits and they have their uses and they make excellent power similar to a diesel, but the issue is is they lack air flow.

After Time Because the Uh the valves get crudded up and then air can no longer flow so that restricts and reduces the volumetric efficiency of that engine. The solution is is a Uh a dual injection. You have one inside of the combustion chamber and then you've got also another injector in the intake. Port Uh.

The problem is is you need to have twice as many parts and then you've got to have an ECM that's programmed and capable of switching back and forth between modes. Uh, I'm a big proponent of that, but the Oems will probably never give that to it. That's three of these coils disconnected. one more connect door.

Now see how these things don't break the way: the Toyota ones break the Uh: the Toyota connectors. as soon as you look at them wrong, snap, they break right off these ones. They don't care must be a plastic uh Integrity kind of situation. Anyways, let's get back in those holes with our uh, our extra long socket.

There we go. Another Denzo So we have original plugs all the way around. Uh-oh my ratchet got the red light. I'm running out the bat that as East quick tactical reload.

need a quick mag Change Flip Drop it, load it, rack it, drop it again. unclick it. That was a tactical battery reload. Good for those Urban situations.

All right, All right now that the Uh: the enemy has been eliminated uh from the rear flanks, over here. let's go ahead and drop in. Uh Security Forces We can replace these with the new ones. Let's get these guys tightened and torqued down and we'll uh, maneuver that intake back in its uh position here now.

I'm just going to run this down with the electric tool I'm not going to apply a boatload of torque to it slowly, slowly, slowly, slowly, pre- click. All right. Bottomed out time for actual click is the wrench is still set to its 19. 6 or s or whatever newton meters snappage.

There we go. That one's tight and torqued to specified specifications. next. Oh, I ran out of throw I Hate that you want to do torque with like one swift motion because there is friction that exist on the threads and while it's in motion, that friction has not gotten a hold of it yet and trying to to restart would make you have to overcome that friction again and can potentially lead to uh, lower torque levels.

Okie Do so. that's three plugs. Let's uh, get our coils lubricated with some more dialectric. We drop these guys into position here and if memory serves, I may have to actually plug these in before tightening them.

and if I'm wrong I'm doing it anyway there and then third one. Where did my third connector go? It was hiding there. We go snap that in and then we've got looking for three more Fasteners across the top here. we'll get these guys tightened down.

This backside is good to go. Clicks there we go. So some of you may have noticed that I applied a torque wrench to the spark plugs, but I did not apply, nor will I apply a torque wrench to these Fasteners Why would I do that? Well, it's really simple. that's a non-critical Fastener it takes 12 inbs of torque.

Uh, you basically make it tight till it stops and then a little bit more. There's no need to it, you know, fullon. German with the torque specs. Uh, on a metal, brass inserted plastic retained bolt that holds down an ignition coil.

We just we don't need to do that. it's it's a little excessive. Um I get it if you're don't know your own strength and you feel you might break the plastic or over torque it or you're scared to make it tight and you under torque it. but uh, you know you tighten down these uh M8 bolts for 20 years.

you? you kind of know what they feel like. It's not so much components that have a torque spec, it's actually the fastener that has a torque spec. The Fastener is designed to put an x amount of clamping load on something and its torque is uh engineered into the desired clamping load. It's also engineered so it doesn't back out or vibrate or snap off.

It's got a room to stretch and contract with heat things of that nature. So uh, in short, it's the Fastener that has the torque spec, not the component. Oh, look, this connector came off of its Mount here. I Can I'll remount you.

There we go. That's where it goes. Okay, intake manifold coming in next, but before we engage in the installation of set intake manifold. I've got to get this gasket replaced.

It's probably okay to leave it here, but for $20 or whatever for another one I See no reason to not change it, but this one that's actually reusable. This gasket is sort of okay. So what I'm saying is you can get away with reusing those. It's not ideal, but it's also not the end of the world.

Uh, there we go. Yep, just like. so beautiful, Good, good, good. Okay, let's give this thing the flip it over treatment.

Ra. good to go and now let's just go ahead and bring her right back in and set it down over those studs. There's one stud over here and then one on the right. Beautiful.

All right. So now we can come in with a couple of our Fasteners and I'm not going to torque any of this stuff yet, but I am going to just tighten it down ever so slightly. Oh I just dropped my nut. Well, I'm going to tighten it down ever so slightly just so it doesn't move around and it'll maintain the seal.

There we go. Recovery fast Ander Recovery right there. Beautiful. Got it all right.

Sho Put that guy back on like so give it a little bit of torque here. Little over here, very good. So now I need to get everybody reconnected out back. That includes the vacuum lines and the brake booster line and that connector bracket that was back there.

It's going to be fun. So trying to get a line of sight on this I can see what? I'm trying to see? No, no. I'm just going to have to reach around and and just kind of feel it. There's no, uh, there's not going to be any easy way to accomplish this.

So right here that is the brake booster tube that's plugged into its little orice. Got the PCV hose right here that's plugged into its little orice. That leaves me with two clamps. and then I've got that uh, one bracket.

I'm sorry you guys can't see what I'm doing back here gra our needle noses again I Know we can't see much of what's going on back there. My apologies I can't get a camera down that little hole I wish I could but I just can't do it C I Don't have good technology I don't have the power. can't do it I can do it with uh, needl noose, pliers and carefully calculated dangly angles. Here that one's on, right? Oh, let's see here right there.

Got it all right? Let's get our throttle body gasket in position. It's got this little tab thing sticking out of it for reference so it stays or goes in in the right orientation. I Don't know what this screen business here is for, but it's there. Yeah, it goes.

It's going to have to go this way. That screen also has notches in the throttle body for reference. weird type of. I don't even know why that screen's in there cuz it's not on all of it.

It's only on like half of it. More engineering that's above my pay grade. I guess I Know nothing. This dang thing doesn't even fit.

Yeah. I give up. Uh, that one didn't fit. It was, uh, too large of diameter.

So I'm going back to the old one and I will reference you to that conversation of earlier when I said it's not the end of the world because it's it's not all right. So before this throttle body goes back in, spray some penetrating oil on it. I'm just going to give it a little wipe down here. Get rid of some of that uh, buildup.

Not much there. It's actually pretty clean, but we're going to give her a wipe down anyway. Couldn't hurt. So I've got the hose halfway on there.

We go. now. it's more than halfway on. Get in there with the needle noses.

All the angles of this are horrendous. Wiggle that guy on. there's our clamp. Okay, now we're up back in business now.

This throttle body can go back into its position. We'll start with the bracketed bolt. Get that one started. Three more of these Fener and let's get the bit set up on our ratchet here.

Fix let go F There we go. Okay, now let's get our wires reconnected to whatever they connect to. Got that little bracket piece? Got throttle body right there. We're done with this section.

I Think All righty. Coming up into the home stretch here, we've got two more plugs to dig out. Remember we did this one in the center first. we've done the three in the rear.

Now we just need to pull these last two coils out and change out the last remaining two plugs. Then we can go back and button up the intake stuff. Uh, get all the knickknack items fixed up. I need to replace that little hose right there that I tore.

Pull that out and then, uh, we can restarting the engine. Make sure we have no misfires and things of that nature and this truck will be good to go. unclick. Going to do this with a little bit of haste? There we go.

That's two removed. We got one more fresh one one coming in. Now see: I'm lowering that down with my finger I'm not just dropping it in. If you were to just drop this spark plug, what can happen is it can smash in the bottom of it and actually change the Gap Now these are preg gapped and they are protected while in the case so they cannot be dropped.

but we want to make sure we don't let anything hit that cuz it'll bend it. That'll cause misfires all day. That would be bad right here. We'll thread it down with the tool threading, threading, threading again with our trigger control.

Come on, that one's down. Last one coming in coming in running out of threads I can feel it there we go. Oh almost see that. see how it was turning and then as I went to re-engage it came up on torque.

That's what I try to avoid I Like to have it come up and click while it's in the turn. There we go. Little squirt there one more right there. Set that aside, get these guys guys down in position again.

we'll get it reconnected, seated and bolted. Click. Beautiful! While we're here, let's go ahead and button up some of these electrical connectors. I Think that one snaps in right there.

This guy plugs in here I Don't know if that one plugs in there or somewhere else, but we do need to bolt these brackets down. I Have neglected those. Let's just get a couple of the bolts in real quickly. like that one goes right in there.

Tight, tight plug that unit in. Easy to forget cuz it's hiding. We've got one vacuum hose right here on that steel line. Slide that guy on so we're looking good looking good.

That plug in right there and then over here. on our other side we've got this, uh, straggler solenoid that's hanging out. Let's get that guy unbolted and reconnected. remember it was interfering with that one hose.

So let's just try to do this off the bracket. Oh, was hitting the hose there, Slide that guy over and then are nut beautiful. one more time with the ratchet click. Now we can move on to our bracketry on the firewall here.

Easily handled bracketry as well. Just two nuts, both or 10. Uh, I don't even know where that one went I saw that thing go down. Oops, all bunch of fingers I think that one's gone guys I don't even know where it went.

That's fine. I'll get another one. Oh wait wait wait wait. I See it back there.

It did not fall off the head. It's back there under this connector. there. She is.

got it. Sneaky little. Fastener You no matter. Okay, now we'll take our relay compartment box and slide that back over that bracket that clicks into position.

Good to go! And we repeat procedure with the brake fluid reservoir bracket over here on this side. So I pull that guy out, set it in the hole, slide it over the studs. Two Nuts Actually Four Nuts This time. many nuts.

There's those two right there holding the bracket to the firewall, then slide this thing down over those two studs on the bracket. Like so two more nuts coming in from the top side here. and of course, our electrical connector that I was stashing off to the side. So what we need to do here? connect that thing in its Mount and then we can plug the connector in to the sensor.

Good to go. The airbox lid is next. Slide that into position and we're not going to forget that silly little wire connector that's uh, on the back side of it. It's going to be a tough squeeze to reach.

so I will put the tube on. We'll slide the lid onto the bottom of the filter housing and then I Just got to reach back there, feel it to connect everything. So that's the connector. And then here is the connector for the harness.

I'm just trying to slip that into its little little home down there as well. Got it? That's on! Beautiful! So here, check it out while you guys were not looking. I Fabric cobbled a new hose together I Took two pieces of hose and then a hose connector and connected them with the connector. Then I put heat shrink over it so it looked pretty so.

I have fixed my airrow. So now the only thing left to install is going to be this little snorkel bit of business right here and our engine cover. Not in that order cuz the cover has got to get bolted on first. That would have been, uh, embarrassing to get wrong.

So let's get our cover in position. We'll get this unit bolted on and we can hit the key and restarting the engine in the home stretch. and I like it. So right here.

two more Fasteners Drop that down. Get that one in there. Let's get these units threaded last one clicks twice, thce four. and then our little intake funnel snorkel looking deal that plugs in right there don't need that, that's a broken and torn away goodbye.

And then we've got two more 10 mes. We'll fire this thing up right there. All right got tell you what, Let me clear all this stuff off of here. You guys hang out right here.

You watch the engine I'm going to go inside, hit the key. so let's lose the screwdriver, the towels, the lubricant, the illuminators, the 10 mil, this guy and a flashlight beginning engine starting sequence now. Ha. It is alive, it lives, It runs well, no vibrations, nice and smooth.

Scheduled maintenance complete. This job is good to go. We are all done here. The only thing I have left to do on this car is go test drive for these.

uh uh, furnish these breaks and that's about it. We've seen plenty of that and this is not a break job video. so I'm going by myself. You guys got to stay here or over there or go wherever else you want.

Uh, perhaps you want to stay till the end of this video and then check out one of these two links right here at the end and that may give you something else to do while I'm on my test drive. So having said all that as always, like to thank you guys for watching this video. Certainly hope you enjoyed this video if in fact, you did enjoy this video. Please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below.

Do not forget to tap that like And subscribe button while you're down there. And most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day! See you guys later in a video and of Nissan and of Chrysler of Japan and a tuneup and a transmission.