This is a good method because of access time required to those connections of the frame and block.
Thank the maker, it was the easier side.
So what caused the brown grodies in the cable? It looks like a clean rig, but Eric O says it's rusty underneath from being in the northeast.
I was going to say what EricO predicted.
An ohm check that's reading greater than point 5 ohms is out of spec.
Our reading was 69,000 ohms.
That would be bad.
So from the disconnected cable clamp at the post, to the ends , respectively, each should be less than point 5.
It's a P.O.S. corroded or incorrectly made cable.
(Now that we know)
What happens at a Ford dealer, is you do all this and the warranty clerk takes all but about a half hour.
You only get paid the half hour.
And that's after the new part is on there.
So, my take on this would be to have my suspect circuit, disconnect, and ohm check it.
If the values were inconclusive, use the jump box grandma trick, or a pair of jumper cables connected to a charged battery.
Charge each of the vehicles batteries, run charging system tests.
And write all the values down.
Hope for a miracle that the electrical testing procedure time and the cable access time, can. be added to the replacement of one cable.
Tough luck when you get an additional point three added to your point 5 you could count on.
If you had management sign off on the perplexing situation?
That could be your saving grace for all you did Eric O, to be the electrical swammy you are.
And your grandma is a phart smeller too.
Hope you get paid.
Nice diagnosis and presentation.
I learned more than I thought I would, and stayed with it to the victory!
Hooray! For Eric O.
If the customer was paying us to tell me him why his electrical issue existed we would ask for an hour to get as far into it as was needed.
Then we would price new cables and look up the Chilton guide labor time.
He might buy one r all of them based on a conversation with our findings so far to base a decision on, and the gut feeling of management, or their request to pull cables and check.
We would be told to pull that one that was suspect first and bench check it in my experience, sometimes you need luck to make a buck. It in this kind of problem, you break even.

This is interesting…. how the left batt didn't drop volts at crank or koef … but a thought… could one take heavy jumper cables and jump the batteries and see what that does?

Enjoyed your class today in Rust-Belt diagnostics,, My rig here in CA is 25 years old,, (110,000 mi) ,, has never seen the inside of a garage,,, and there is'nt any rust,, anywhere,,, 🙂

Just wented to say just started watching your videos an had this problem nothing like helping people out without lying to make money thanks u appreciate you and your videos brother they sure do help people wish they had more people like u in the world thanks brother man !!!!.

Scotty had the marker!

Awesome video,,!! I know some wouldn’t have the patience to see it through and want to cut to the chase, but what an education in trouble shooting! Definitely helpfully in diagnosing more complex issues. I for one am glad you take the time to be comprehensive. Please keep it up.

Don’t know if this helps, if I’m wrong, or blowing up a tree. I’m a marine tech, (I have literally called two battery manufacturers for this info). When 2 batteries (in a boat) are connected together, #1 is, let’s say at 8 volts and #2 is good at let’s say 12.7-8 volts. When you connect a charger to #1 because it’s low, because the batteries are connected the charger will not throw/charge #1 because with both batteries connected, the charger is reading the 12.7 volt, so it’s saying this battery is good, it doesn’t need charging. Ive learned this over the years but no one would believe me, so I called and was told this by the manufacturer also. The charger doesn’t know if 1 or 5 batteries are connected, it’s only reading voltage and will put out amps to charge. Now, here is another example. This happens a couple times a years with us. Customer knew he had 1 battery that was about 3-4 volts, and the other battery was about 8 volts. He puts a charger on them, (still connected) the 8 volt battery goes to 12.6 and the 3 volt battery goes too about 8, why? (As told by manufacturer)the charger only threw power, it did not know there was 2 batteries, it just reads that it has to charge, so the better battery goes up too 12.6, charger says, ‘that’s good’ so weaker battery never gets charged up. You have to separate them. This goes for the alternator also. This is why in a boat, you need a battery isolator that will since when one battery is low, the alternator will charge just that one. If both low, sends power to both, when one gets charged, it continues charging the other.

I would think that if you had batteries hooked up in parallel, if one had 12.9 volts and the other had 12 volts, then you would get 12.5 on both instead of one being higher.

Great video

There's your problem lady 1 battery doing all the work the other battery isn't connected or No current flow the parallel battery Circuit isn't Connected Eric O @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC

Perfect From Norway Trond

A perfect descriptive course in high current DC fault analyisis. The guy is smart

The sharpies moving around is just the Mandela effect 😉

I appreciate your method. I totally respect your efforts to 100% confirm before jumping ahead to your best guess. When you were pretty sure the passenger side ground was the issue, I was like " OK clean and check those grounds on the passenger side" …but we still didn't know which wire or connection point was bad. Thank you for being thorough. I have learned a lot from you.

Interesting, early on in the video I was guessing that there was a diode between the two batteries which would limit the electron flow to one direction. In this pattern you'd have all auxiliary power coming off of one battery and the other battery is reserved for functions like starting. A diode here may cause different voltages if it was from the direction of the starter battery to the aux battery which was consistent with your voltage differences and the readings when attempting to crank. In this case the solution would have just been to reverse the diode as someone likely accidentally installed it in the wrong direction when installing the new battery. I guess it's another scenario to consider if others watch this video and see similar symptoms 🙂

definitely a channel worth subscribing, almost 'liking' all submitted videos. thank you.

We poke fun at Scotty but I agree with his pro Toyota stance. For ever 12-15-20
vehicles in shop, only about 1 Toyota. I live in Spain and a Hilux diesel is my choice, Im
72 and a used one will last the rest of my life. They don't break a lot and proof of this was oil fields in Kuwait, Isuzu
D Max was just as good. Abdulla doesn't like to spend money.

One battery is for starting and the other is for accessories!

Secret to a simple way to attach a lead to a flat metal surface. Magnet on a metal stick 🤔🥺

Saying the green part of those burritos was not peppers or sauce?🤔🥴🤢🥵🤮😵🥶

Thank you! As always great video, I learn something every time. RHS Mobile Auto Repair LLC 1988-Present. Rustbelt Master Mechanic.