Part 1: Parts Cannon!! Can it be saved? 95 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 https://youtu.be/XGx5cooQLQY
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Engine barely runs and has a severe lack of power. It also has the occasional no start or long cranking before it starts. So far I've found vacuum leaks, clogged ports, antifreeze leaks from the water pump and the electric fan is damaged. I had the fuel pump, filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, and a distributor cap and rotor. It also has a new coolant temp sensor, O2 sensor, MAP, intake demp, IAC and throttle position sensor replaced. The ECM / PCM has been replaced too. See part one.
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Engine barely runs and has a severe lack of power. It also has the occasional no start or long cranking before it starts. So far I've found vacuum leaks, clogged ports, antifreeze leaks from the water pump and the electric fan is damaged. I had the fuel pump, filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, and a distributor cap and rotor. It also has a new coolant temp sensor, O2 sensor, MAP, intake demp, IAC and throttle position sensor replaced. The ECM / PCM has been replaced too. See part one.
Visit my Second Channel on Youtube, RainmanRay Off Duty https://www.youtube.com/c/RainmanRayOutoftheShop
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Support the channel on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
Patreon is a "Tip Jar" I don't post much there, daily YT uploads are all that I can manage for now
Amazon List, must have for any toolbox!
ATD Tools 13782 10-Piece Triple Square Spline Bit Socket Set https://amzn.to/3RV2fUB
Same as Matco. Mountain 5-Piece Metric Double Box Universal Spline Reversible Ratcheting Wrench Set; 8 mm - 18mm, 90 Tooth Design, Long, Flexible, Reversible; MTNRM6 https://amzn.to/3OJTRp2
Mercedes BMW VW Wheel Stud Master Kit: https://amzn.to/3OszRaL
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As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. #commissionsearned.
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“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
Ah, the plot thickens pouring, cooling down the water. The water for fantastic. All right guys, it's the next day again. Um, still trying to troubleshoot this here. Jeep It's starting to frustrate me a little bit. Uh I pulled those codes again. Uh, the only codes I'm getting out of it is generator field uh, voltage low. Um, it's still got that tough misfire thing. It barely gets out of its own way. It has no power so uh I know it's not fuel because the thing has a new fuel pump and it's got a new filter that was done before I got a hold of it. It's got good fuel pressure I Don't believe it's an injector issue because if it were it would be either flooding and I'd be dumping raw fuel out of the exhaust or it would just have a hard misfire all the time. which it does not. It only misfires on occasion. So uh, assuming that it's none of the new sensors including that map I Took a closer look at this map sensor and that's also been replaced at some point so all the sensing units on this engine have been replaced. but uh, we're not getting. uh, we're just not getting good mid-range power out of it and it barely wants to start. So I'm gonna go ahead and switch over and pay attention to the ignition system. Now we can see here on this side it's got some nice shiny High Performance red high temp wires. It has new spark plugs installed I Did pull one out earlier and they are a little bit fuel fouled but uh I don't think that. that's really the problem. So I want to go ahead and pull this distributor cap off, take a look under there and see how the rotor button looks and let's check the shaft in that distributor and make sure that uh, that thing's not. We will wobbling around or broken or something like that. It may even be out of time. but I don't think it is. Uh I don't see witness marks on the bolt and that thing's been in there for a while. The distributor does look like it's the original unit or it's been there for quite some time. Uh, there may be an issue with the uh, the pickup module in there. Um, but again, sometimes those are a little inconsistent or when they fail, they fail spectacularly, In which case it would run this particular instance it is operating. it's just. uh, it's just not right. So let's go ahead and pull that apart and see what we can find. Okay, this Cap's gonna be real easy to remove. There's just a one screw on each side. It appears that this has been replaced also the cap because the uh, the hold down bolts are pretty shiny. Let's go ahead and get this uh removed and we'll take a look at our interior of this distributor. Let's see what you get here. I Don't need this I Don't need this for now. Hmm, not too bad. I Do see some Rust in there. see how our rotor button looks? That's okay I Don't know guys. My my gut's telling me I have an issue with this distributor I mean process of elimination doesn't really? Uh, leave many other opportunities for possibility. There we go. That's what. that's the one. it's got a new PCM Also, I didn't I didn't show you guys that it's over there on the firewall, but the PCM has been replaced uh before I Go any further. I actually want to pull this out and take a look at the gears on it. We're going to start this again because I heard, uh, some kind of like a plastic or metallic tapping sound from this side of the engine earlier. and I want to see if we can't get that on camera. So let me throw this back together real quick just to see if we can capture that because uh, I think next. I'm gonna go ahead and pull this distributor out. All right. Plug that back in All right starting. Z Engine all right I Can't hear that. nothing noise. Hang on. hear it. Two more tapping action going. Go ahead and pull that out. it's coming out next. I Need to take a look at that powering down again. Probably didn't have to do that. It'll just stall on its own. Okay, Cap's coming back off. Let's go ahead and unplug the unit. I'm gonna pull this guy all the way out. Come on. Yeah. Unclick. Okay, so the hold down clamp is down here on the engine block. It's a uh, it's a half inch. but since I don't have standard tools I mean I got some. but I don't use them. 13 will also work. So I'm going to reach in, pull that, uh, that hold down, clamp off and then we can pull this unit out. Here Comes our Bolt and our little clamp this thing clamps onto the distributor and holds the shaft down to the block. Put that aside right over here. Don't go anywhere now. I'm going to put a little Mark here to reference where this went right about right there. So we're going to point the back side of the rotor button right in that spot. that's where it sits. As this comes up. the shaft is going to turn because it's geared and as it comes off that gear, it's going to rotate. See that? So when we put this back in, you have to remember what position we started from. All right. stop turning here to mark that again just for a quick reference for myself. I'm basically just making sure everything is referenced in case I need to put this back exactly where it came from I'm not setting or checking the timing. There we go. Okay, so the gear looks good I Don't see any crazy wear on the teeth or anything like that. Not a hundred percent certain this is it, but this is what I'm looking for. These are fairly inexpensive. I think I'm going to go ahead and pull one from the store and slap it in there as a as a triagnostic and uh, we'll see if we get any kind of improvement out of this thing. stand by. I'm gonna go down the street, be right back I do need to throw this out there because you guys are going to re-out over this. um I did adjust timing a little bit on this I did move it around and I got no change out of it I verified with the timing mark down in the crankshaft that it was in fact in time but uh I did not get any Improvement um it all I did was not run so um, it's not the timing I've already checked that it was boring so I didn't record it. Picked up a Distributing unit from the auto parts store. I'm gonna go ahead and slap this thing in and see if we get uh, an improvement out of it. It came with a new cap I'm assuming there's a new rotor button in there as well, but before I switch everything over I'm gonna just take this apart and we'll use the cap and the rotor that's already on it or the cap rather and we will see if this unit is gonna perform better than the other one. I Got a feeling this is, uh, this is what the issue is and I I will have to ask you to forgive me for my triagnostic strategy on this. I'm not extremely fluent in OBD1 vehicles I'm trying I'm trying I believe that goes. Oh I've already already messed it up. Hang on. Go in your home please. I Need you assembled? Okay, we started pointed here. Dude. I'm feeling to make sure that the bottom of the distributor lines up in the oil pump. Drive I Think yeah, yeah, we'll point it here. That's uh, that's where it went. All right, we're in, we're in good shape. Let's go ahead and plug this cap back in. Did I get that pointed right? Yeah, yeah. I did. It's all the way seated which tells me that the uh, the bottom of the shaft is down inside the oil pump. Okay, cap click and another project put our plug wires back on. These need some dielectric and then they're uh, they're on there dry. That's never good. And where's that coil wire down here hanging out coil pick. Let's go ahead and get our clamp back in. That goes right right there. Okay, let's get our little hole down tight and then we'll try to restart it and see what it does. It's either gonna work or it's uh, you're going to remain unchanged and I'm wrong. And then I did all this for nothing. which I hope not. All right. Here We go normal, right? Let's pull it the right way. Okay, it's time. Exactly where the old unit was. foreign all the way through its red rays. Okay. one quick restart. Nice. Nice. Nice. Let's uh. let's go check on. uh, that noise down there I don't know if you guys heard it. that little clicky sound that I heard and felt in there I do hear it and I do not feel it I hear it I can feel it too my tapping action going on here in here. All right backing out to Otto Okay I like the throttle response. this is good. We're gonna back up and do a gravel parking lot burnout. if it's got power I want to see what it does when we do it? Uh, we give it full send. First Gear Nice. Yeah, it's got some power now. Cool. Let's hit the road real quick and uh, confirmed that it's got power off through its rev range. We're not going to stay out too long, but first things first. we need to figure out the running issue. That was. two gears, pulled it through two gears and it had plenty of power. Try a left turn. hello oscifer I'm not wearing a seat belt I'm gonna get in trouble. Yeah, okay, he didn't care. That's cool. That's it. That's two times I've seen some I'm getting off that road. There's cops all over the place over there. What are they doing? There's another one in front of me. Oh, someone screwed up today and I'm just gonna put that seat belt on right now. We can see you. Yeah, they're hunting somebody down. Oh, that was loud and rickety. That's not smart. He's gonna get you. and there's all kinds of perpetrators around here. Me, that guy, and the thing. Yeah. back to the shop. I Got my seatbelt on too, by the way. Big. click it or ticket. How's our uh, twice, please? All right, we're good. How's our? Idol Is it idle? Okay, about a thousand. That's pretty good. We were idling at like 500 or something. silly like that. Maybe even a little lower, right, guys. Back to the shop. I'm gonna go do some clerical work and figure out if I'm gonna do anything else with this truck other than, uh, give it its horsepowers back. So uh, that being said, I'm gonna go ahead and close this video out. Um, so that being said, as always, like thank you for watching this video. Hope you enjoyed this video on this 1995 OBD1 Jeep Wrangler If you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that. Bye tap that like button down below. If you do not enjoy this video, then go watch something else or give me some feedback down in the comments section and I can use your feedback to better improve the quality of my videos. So again and as always, thank you for watching and most importantly, do not forget to have yourselves a great day! Hey look, the wife unit's here! Hello Life Unit, What's up Youngins that right there my friends is the reason you can't drive your Mustang like a jack wagon. Yes my son, you like this Jeep I like this Jeep it's not more awesome than my truck he he hates on my truck I Don't get it finalized Jeep Powering down be W And yes, in case you're wondering I did swap out that uh new distributor cap So we're good to go here.
Most excellent diagnostic work Ray,, So,,, was the rotor hitting something on the distributor cap???
What could have been wrong with the old distributor thing which looked visually fine to cause that knocking and lack of power?
The new editing -side by side and before and after comparisons is amazing
Great informative videos Ray, appreciate your contribution to uTube
No need timing set on it ??
All the cops are out because they're looking for Florida men. But they keep missing the Floridiots like you haha
Loved the process of diagnosis on this one.
I'd be curious to know what ya did when adjusting the timing. Do you have any videos of that?
Is the ign coil 27 years old?
Good Job, Ray. Now I want to know what was wrong with that distributor that caused it to act that way.
I thought seatbelts were optional in florida…
Happy Thanksgiving Ray, sounded to me the mechanical centrifugal advance had a broken spring or something..:) good troubleshooting.. thanks for the great content
Wife is missing the do-da-do's
The only thing Chrysler did when buying out AMC was to keep the American Motors 4.0 Liter engine. I also liked the 304ci. AMC engine. That's the closest thing I would ever own to a Chrysler product, that wasn't really a Chrysler engine. Don't get me wrong their engines weren't too bad in the day, but electrical, and shoddy suspension and overall build quality of Chryslers kinda sucked.
Thanks
I am enjoying this series on the Jeep. I recently purchased my first Jeep, a 98. This series is showing me what to look for. It would be interesting if you did a short video on taking apart the distributor to see what was causing the tapping sound.
Water pump , lower hose & fan ??
What's that heatsink looking thing that is off to the left of the distributor, hanging off the rocker cover stud, with no nut holding it down? Intermittent earth or something going on?
I hope you get the nod from the customer to fix the rest of the problems. It would be a shame to cook the engine now that you've got it running properly.
Wouldn't it be easier to back vehicles in since you have limited space.
You'd think a car guy like you would buckle up before even starting the engine.
Your next shop location needs to be (a) near a racetrack and (b) near a parts store
sounds like rotor button shorting to ground. test by cranking engine while holding centre coil lead near the rotor. If a spark jumps to the rotor you need to replace the rotor button.
Had a "sloppy" distributor in a Datsun 260Z. Below 120kmh it was not very nice to drive, but from 120 to 210kmh it was ALIIIIIIVE!!!
Jeep took u back to the basics of old school vehicle set up. Glad u got it figured out
Did the old dist. have a bunch of play in the shaft ?
Ray, I know that you're the boss! But, if I was in your shoes and I knew that the Jeep had been thoroughly screwed
with, I'd refuse to do anymore work on it and tell the customer were I draw the line!!!
Dude! speaking of parts cannons. Just tap some roll pin out of that distributor and inspect. Admit it Ray, a Wrangler with a manual and the good ol' 4.0 is fun to drive….
Sounds like spark is escaping somewhere.
Before this Jeep made it to the shop, this poor thing was really doomed for some real grab ass funky shade tree
awnryness !
Can you take apart that distributor and show us what was ticking inside?
Bad ground
Seems like the cap wasn't clicked in fully / tight, guess it was just needing to be reseated. Good work, if the dist cap wasn't seated you would of been losing power due to it not being entirely in place and sparking nicely or at a lower charge due to positioning.
I really enjoyed this one Ray 😁
I kind of like the side notes you put up in this video!!!
Pretty classic symptom-exhaust getting hot = retarded timing. I know you just replaced the dist. but it did look like it was moved slightly from before to after (admittedly thats tough to tell in a vid). Or… possibly something wonky inside causing timing to be off? We're so used to coils now it'd be easy to overlook
So glad to have a conclusion to the problem! Very satisfying. 👍👍
did you try a nutter bypass if that works then you know what the issue is a nutter bypass on these inlines has been a solution for a long time
Didn't see you look at inside of cap. Wrong rotor will cut into plug contacts in the cap. I'm used to points inside a distributor advance may be faulty. If it hesitates on acceleration
Yes keep throwing parts at it Ray. Next would be a new water pump. Then go from there.
Hi Ray, dont forget proper distributor adjustment BTDC to bring the idle rpm down a bit, and to check for vacuum leaks. Have a great day.
I just want to say thank you to whoever brought this Jeep to Ray. I always enjoy the videos here, but this is the kind of stuff that really got me hooked.
Well done with that tricky diagnosis! Also like the over-dubbed clarifying comments!
They change everything else except the most important part lol
It was probably one of the counterbalance arms in that old distributor, either that or one of the springs for the arm. That was a nice call on it, stuff like that can drive you nuts trying to figure out what's going on
Always hated chasing faults where others have dabbled, best plan of action is to ignore whats been replaced and doublecheck in your own diagnostic list. I’ve seen replaced parts either faulty or damaged (one spark plug gap closed up got me). That tapping noise sounds like arcing inside the distributor cap, you’re a brave man grabbing hold of it btw lol…
Well done. 👍
Mechanic? Technician? Tenacious analyst? Nope! All three. Is there a word to describe that?
Nice work.big thumbs up👍
I wanted to see how hot the exhaust manifold got along with a water pump and fan installed…. Ray you cut us short on this one!
Good job on the distributor!
I had a 95 YJ that I put 303k miles on the original motor. I blew it and replaced, put another 30k on it. I had to sell it which I regretted. I actually enjoyed working on it, and I’m no mechanic. But it was pretty roomy under the hood. A JEEP is not a truck 😂
Standard "tune-up" for a 4.0 with a distributor is cap, rotor, wires, and plugs. So the cap will always look newer than the rest of the distributor.
What many miss in the distributor is the camshaft position sensor which is UNDER the rotor, inside the distributor.
In all the 4.0's from 1990 through 1999, and then the cam replacement module in 2000+, the CSS must sync with the CPS or the computer goes nuts and it can cause all kinds of havoc including misfires, fuel shutoff, stumbling, just all around bad juju. Very, very much like this Wrangler exhibited.
In this case I'll bet the camshaft sensor was bad in the old distributor, and that was likely the tapping sound.
And before people say, just replace the sensor … The whole thing costs the same.
So why not just do the whole distributor and get fresh bearings and all that fun stuff?
BTW — ODB2 actually has a data pid for both sensors and their sync status, which makes this diagnosis much much easier on 96+
I’m still not at the part where you got it figured out, my thought was a crack in the dust. cap.
That fan's gotta go first. Can't really get that water pump out with the fan like 3/4 of an inch away.
I was wrong. I thought for sure it was the injectors. Good fix man.
I'd like to know what you found wrong with distributor?
replace all the parts till you have a Ferrari
What about the water pump and fan? Is that part 3? Nice that the distributor was the culprit…good call! 😃
I would not have thunk – it was the distributor.
I had to replace the distributor in my old XJ. The shaft in the distributor develops slop over time.
Them 4.0 chryslers eat distributors like chev trucks eat lifters!
I remember years ago when my brother inlaw had a few jeeps he always had a drawer full of gears on hand. Would pull it out of every one he found at scrap yards.
I think your truck is great. It's the truck that can have battles and make it through when others will be sitting dead on the side of the road.
Distributor ignition is pretty simple. Most of the time if it's causing issues it's because rust jammed up the vacuum advance mechanism or there are cracks or carbon traces that are leaking voltage.
Bad distributors do happen when they get worn. The most common problems with the 4.0L is crank and cam sensors going bad. What I forgot also the coil can also cause some of the problems with a hard start and weak power. My mechanic replaced the motor on my jeep half a million miles and it finally died,so there was no reference when installing in a new one. He missed one step and it was enough to cause the same problems. It needs to be pinned because it will shift enough when your installing it to cause the timing to be off.
Alright Ray , stick with automatic transmissions Brother .
Will you PLEASE tell us what the sound was and the cause of the poor performance ?
Never waste time on a Jeep with square headlights
I am seriously LOVING Ray doin his own thing…the videos have gotten a LOT more entertaining and Ray…if you read this, you sound a HELL of a lot happier man and that's a good thing! Oh by the way…those old YJs/XJs and even the ZJs for a while all had craptacular crank sensors, would cause all sorts of interesting driveability issues.
I thought for sure weak fuel pump.ive seen people buy cheap parts……wow good job.
tesss
Wish I lived close enough for you to work on my 2016 Ford Explorer. You are da man!
So did you replace the water pump and radiator fan and all the other stuff you did did you get paid for all the stuff ?
I'm guessing something was coming apart in the distributor. That clattering noise was weird.
It's funny, because THIS viewer has only worked on OBD1 vehicles. Dinosaur feeling engaged.
On an old car like that, with all the other work they did, they didn't think to replace the distributor?
Good catch on that.
I guess it was that little bit of sloppy that was causing it. Perhaps very tight tolerances on the rotor spinny thingy LOL
What about the water pump and fans?
Thank you!
Ford truck with a 300 straight six comes into the shop. He says it has no power and wants the engine rebuilt.
I did an inframe rebuild because everything inside looked new. I did not pull the camshaft out. I got done and it fired right up, ideled like a dream. set the timing and no power. it would rev great but when you drove it, it wouldn't pull the hat off your head. long story short after tearing it down 3 time and putting it back together i put a socket on the crank bolt and rocked it back and forth and there was an almost 1/2 turn before the distributer turned. turned out to be that the keyway in the cam was so worn out it was letting the cam change timing. boy was i relieved when i found that. from then on first thing i did was pull the dist cap and check for slack. This engine had timing gears that was gear to gear, no chain.
Wow this video surprised me a lot and thats hard to do. First thing I had to do was erase my rant on you changing the distributor, thought it was a waste of my $$$$, next surprise is how was you going to mark it so it goes back in right place, I thought some special marker not scrapping greasy motor with screwdriver, the last surprise was a big one, you turned RIGHT, another rant I was already to rant on, my fingers was already on the key board and ready to rename your garage to the Left Turn Garage, inc…………. Well sense since you didn't give me anything to rant about on this video, I'll just ask, can you get (Wife Unit) on coffee cups, affordable coffee cups?
PS Happy Thanksgiving, and if you didn't come from a monkey, dont forget to give thanks to our creator……….. ((((1 Thessalonians 5:18 – In every thing give thanks: for this is the will of God in Christ Jesus concerning you.))))
I remember I've had to replace a few distributors on those older Jeeps. They seem to like to wear out the pin that holds the gear to the shaft and you get too much free play. Or the advancer seizes or falls apart. If the sensor went bad, it just won't start at all. Nice work Ray! Now, are we going to get a part 3 where you fix the rest of the drivability issues? A good water pump and working cooling fan are kind of important if you want to drive this thing for more that 5 minutes at a time. lol
Hooray! I just bought a right hand drive jeep with more issues than the national geographic. Its smells like the Exxon Valdeez on fire with the heat on. Wish you were closer!
I give you half like because I wanted to see the timing done I haven’t seen it done in a long time feel as if I forgot how
Did you ever find out what that mystery code was?
Man, that was a good call! I worked on a friend's 1996 Dodge Dakota, and it did the blinky-llight thing. It indicated the TPS was bad. He found it ran better with the TPS unplugged, and drove it for years like that. That's thinking outside the box.
Bought a 76 CJ 7 while stationed in Australia 1984 – 1986. My dad had taught me some basics including re-greasing front wheel bearings. Thanks dad several times. However, he never taught me how to rebuild brake cylinders (hope the name is correct). The dust is very fine, and there was sludge inside all of them. Loved that Jeep, but I sold in on to someone else. Getting vehicles into and out of the country not much fun. Left side steering on left lane roads. Also rented and borrowed Australina cars. Four way stops require close attention especially in Perth. Go Navy.
My 96 XJ with the 4.0 and about 600k on it still has the factory distributor. It's also had a minor miss under light acceleration for at least the last couple of hundred thousand miles. The plugs, wires, injectors, coil and cap have been replaced. (No, not parts cannon, a LOT of miles!) Seeing this has me thinking the distributor is next.
I would guess that you also replaced the cooling fan?
Took me back to my first, a 1971 Datsun 510 wagon. L1600 in line 4. Timing lights and chalk.
with that Heat issue and miss fire I'd do a compression check it sounds like a Valve issue. like one exhaust valve is bent or a chunk of crap holding open a little.
Good trob shooting job !! Strangely, Most everything's been replaced (including dizzy cap) & checked but still have chronic low power & Dizzy sounds strange……Excellent decision to replace entire Dizzy unit !! …..Could've bailed but hung in there…..Rewarded with a good fix & sure cust respect….. Sounds you like goin through the gears & motor sounds great !!
I had the same issue with my 91 s10 blazer the distributor had slight wiggle to it
What's with the Florida Thermal undies.
A guy that lived up the road from me had a Ford Sport Custom, with a 390 in it. He sold it to me for $500.00. Said it would run for 5 minutes, and then die. I replaced the distributor, for $36.00. And that sucker would fly ! Did it the same day, I bought it, we both raced at the local drag strip, but he raced mopars. Screamed by his house, back and forth several times. He asked me what I did. I said, he sold it to a Ford guy, and it runs fine for me ! LOL I didn't lie to him, I just didn't tell him the whole truth. LOL
you did change the fine timing by turning the distributor
Every shop needs a scope
what happen to the over heating issue
"Im not familiar with OBD I vehicles" So I shouldnt bring you my old British cars with twin points distributors and twin side draft carbs? I cut my mechanics teeth on efi pre OBD I cars. Some of them even had distributors with 4 sets of points. I DO NOT miss those days.
Excellent work Ray.
Do you own a timing light?