In this video I have a look at a customers Honda Passport with the big 3.2 that has the check engine light on with a P0502 active in it. This indicates that the PCM is not seeing any speed signal however the speedometer works just fine. Let's see what the problem is.
-Enjoy!
If an SMA Video has helped you out please consider giving using "Patreon" to help support us. The videos take real time to create and pull us away from real work that pays our bills. CLICK HERE: https://www.patreon.com/southmainauto
CHECK OUT OUR "SMA SWAG" STORE! Go on Teespring and get your very own SMA merch!
https://teespring.com/stores/the-sma-store
If you don't like Patreon feel free to use the "PayPal Me" link: https://www.paypal.me/SouthMainAuto
The South Main Auto Amazon Store:
https://www.amazon.com/shop/southmainautorepairavoca
AES Wave Automotive Diagnostic Tools: https://www.aeswave.com/cart.php?m=affiliate_go&affiliateID=2525b91fc8e906e8215984074c9d9e8f&go=https://www.aeswave.com/Miscellaneous-p9347.html
Thank you for all the continuing support!
--Eric & Vanessa O.
Feel like sending some swag to SMA because you love the videos but don't know where to send it?
Just ship it here:
South Main Auto Repair
47 S. Main St
PO Box 471
Avoca, NY 14809
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
-Enjoy!
If an SMA Video has helped you out please consider giving using "Patreon" to help support us. The videos take real time to create and pull us away from real work that pays our bills. CLICK HERE: https://www.patreon.com/southmainauto
CHECK OUT OUR "SMA SWAG" STORE! Go on Teespring and get your very own SMA merch!
https://teespring.com/stores/the-sma-store
If you don't like Patreon feel free to use the "PayPal Me" link: https://www.paypal.me/SouthMainAuto
The South Main Auto Amazon Store:
https://www.amazon.com/shop/southmainautorepairavoca
AES Wave Automotive Diagnostic Tools: https://www.aeswave.com/cart.php?m=affiliate_go&affiliateID=2525b91fc8e906e8215984074c9d9e8f&go=https://www.aeswave.com/Miscellaneous-p9347.html
Thank you for all the continuing support!
--Eric & Vanessa O.
Feel like sending some swag to SMA because you love the videos but don't know where to send it?
Just ship it here:
South Main Auto Repair
47 S. Main St
PO Box 471
Avoca, NY 14809
Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. South Main Auto Repair assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. South Main Auto Repair recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of South Main Auto Repair, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained.
Hey folks got a CO2 Honda it's a passport. It's got the big 3.2 I don't see much Honda about this thing. It looks like a GM really when you look under the hood looks like it's got General Moore's computer I think it's made by Isuzu so I don't really know what we're working on. Uh, long story short, as they like to say uh, the guys money light is on and naturally when I go out to get it, the battery's dead of course like 90 of what I work on.
So I threw a jumper on it, got it inside, put the charger on it, set it to nuclear, let it boil the battery for a little while and see what we have. The engine light was on though, which is great. of course the monitors are all reset so whatever it is must be a hard code and I believe it was a p0502 for vehicle speed sensor I did notice when I zipped around the parking lot to pull it in. The speedometer did work though, so that's something and that's all I know and I put it on the lift.
but I assume we're gonna have to get under it and find some wiring and figure out what's going on here. So there is the code. the 502 vehicle speed sensor circuit low I did go in I'm just in generic data because I think the OEM stuff was really kind of wacky I hit the wrong button so it's going to spin here forever. but I went into live data, went to uh vehicle speed and that stayed at zero.
uh despite the fact that the speedometer did go up as I traveled inside. So let's get a wiring diagram and see if we can't figure this thing out. I Found a diagram right in service data which was great. uh in service data obviously that's where we found out, but under the p0502 there I had it pulled up there for us power ground signal so it's a hall effect and I also read in service data that it is supplied 12 volts but puts out a 9 volt signal so that's also good to know in case we need to.
you know, inject a signal into that wire. So I would say first thing first. um I just kind of glanced through some of this. I say we go right to uh, this little guy, see if we can find it, identify it and you know I I assume it has a new sensor.
90 of the stuff we get it's already had, you know the Parts Canon unloaded on it. So let's just make sure we don't have a bad sensor. see what the wiring looks like? You know, do we have power ground? we have a signal coming out or is that signal shorter to the ground and then go from there. Yeah, okay, so that's the little guy right there.
so we've got black yellow? what's that is this? Oh okay, yeah. so I thought you got some kind of funky wire splits on it. Somebody's been fiddling with that black with yellow, red with black and black. Let's go see what our colors here were like.
the yellow, black, red with green. So all right. perfect. Let's uh, let me get you guys set up here and we'll see what we have I can't unplug it I'm not sure what he's got going on here.
Looks like the tag end of another wire sticking out of the speed sensor is that. I See, the car does have some aftermarket gizmos on the inside, so aftermarket remote start of course, which sometimes TAPS in the speed signal. Get that thing out of there. Looks like they just cut into the harness to put some kind of extension in there. Um, what we're looking for right now is we're going to be checking for power and ground and pin fitment. Looks like all these pins have had something jammed into them, so that's good. All right, it's okay. let me go grab a test light folks.
Sorry red wire. Let's see red green. Oh maybe it's red black. The black is supposed to be our ground.
Let's just see if we have power here. We do. So we have lots of power so that's good. So I grabbed some low current test light here so there is our power on our ground and I'm gonna go from our power to our signal wire and just make sure it's not short to ground.
Uh, and it's not because it doesn't light up so there's regular ground. There's our signal so that's interesting. Um, it's it's not shorter to ground. We do have a good power, good ground despite all the you know.
Mickey Mouse stuff down here Let's uh, instead of running it well I Guess we could run on a lift right? because we got the key on I Got it in park? I Guess we can put it in neutral. Yeah, we can put it in neutral down here. we can spin it and see if we have any signal being output from the sensor and then kind of make an assessment from there. Yeah, the connector looks like say, it looks to be a bit of a mess.
Get it plugged back in, tag right into the Uh signal wire here and see what we have and we could have just a simple stripped out gear where it goes into the transfer case here. All right, we're going to come up and tag into this ground. See the wires are you pretty well screwed up here? So I don't feel too guilty about this signal wire that vehicle that just drove by I Mean that thing ain't got no problem with Speed Center I'll tell you that there's that. So we are sitting looking at the U-scope here uh, about 14 volts because we're two volts per Division and our graphs all the way up at the top.
So it's interesting because it's supposed to be a nine volt output plug this I Want to see? Yeah, let's see if we're putting out 14 voltages Now it's putting out unplugged. It's got a bias voltage on that signal wire. so I'm plugged. We're about four and a half volts.
I'm saying that, but we're sitting about four and a half volts average on that. So it's kind of weird. Uh, plugging in Like say, according to service data, you know we're supposed to have. You know, um, nine volts? but I guess it's sitting there at 12 12.9 I Guess it would be is what our average voltage here across top is.
Screen: Okay, let me pop it neutral. We're going to give her a little twirl around, see if anything changes. Pop a little ship. Little Rock down here, put our neutral or at least not in park. I'm Gonna Change My Time basis on the scope here. So what's interesting is I don't know if we're supposed to have the bias voltage on there or not. So we're gonna put um, 200 milliseconds per division I'm taking. give this a twirl.
Okay, yeah, so we're getting a zero we're getting. You know, a bit of a square wave on there for turning it real slow. So let me, uh, put some more time on the screen here. so put a second on there so it looks like the speed sensor is able to function.
We do have an output signal from it, albeit not zero to nine. Okay, we're looking more like a zero to 12 volts. so that's interesting in and of itself just because service data did. State You know the nine volts, but I'm not going to let that hang me up too much.
We just need to see if the signal is making it to the PCM because it's kind of curious that it's here. Uh, we'll come back. fix those wires, don't you worry? Uh, it does. If the signal wire was shorted.
uh, you know, obviously you wouldn't have any signal, we would have test light. So it appears that we have what we need here. So it's kind of interesting. Let's follow this harness up and see if we can't find where it goes to the PCM.
This is a little bit interesting initially. I was looking at just a colored wiring diagram here and I noticed pin 27 like I said was our vehicle speed in to the to the PCM. But then I noticed this splice over here that goes up to uh, the speedometer or you know, the gauge assembly. So I was like, well that's weird because our speedometer works.
so our wire technically is good. From here, you know where it goes over to the speed sensor up to the cluster. so it must be from this splice to the PCM is where it's having its issue. Doesn't mean the wire is bad, it just means it's you know where we're having an issue.
But see, look at this here too. Um I look at an Oem diagram because color wiring diagrams don't only give you half the story. So we have our splice s144. Our speedometer works so we know our speed sensor is good.
Power ground there is good obviously. Uh, our wire is good for all the way up through here. So we have a suspect area from the splice over to here. but we have this connector C125 which would probably be a good place to go.
Um I don't believe these are Interactive Let me fiddle around with this and see if we can't. um figure out where this stuff is. Connector C125 pin 13 because we can make a test there. that's going to be great.
That'll tell us uh, what we need to know. So I gotta see about getting these links working and and figuring out where's uh, where stuff is I think I Got some stuff as we mentioned, good. From here to here, C125 is our next easiest spot to get to before it goes to the computer. Of course the computer is right here in this computer.
In uh, in in GM land was a disaster. These things really had a tendency to get corroded I've yet to, you know, unhook a connector. Obviously you know people have been here. You know things are busted and stuff because we're always the last place to get the car. Uh, C125, There it is and it states that it's blue. It's in the left side of the engine compartment. so I'm assuming it's one of these guys down here. Blue: one left side of the engine compartment.
Somebody's already had this one off. There's that and it says 16 pins. So two rows or four rows of four. There's four rows of four on that little guy in pin.
What number was it 13 I think it said yeah. 13 black yellow vehicle speed sensor. So there's that. Let's see if we have our signal there and then go from there.
What side is? uh, side that goes down to the trainee. We'll figure that all out here. Okay, it comes out of the speedo. Okay, into that, out of that and over to the PCM.
All right, let's find the wire and get it probed in there and just see what we have right here. It's right on the corner, which is awesome. We're just going to leave the connector right there. We're just going to back probe it if we can get my fingers down in here.
All right. That feels okay. If we don't have a signal, we'll fiddle with that some more. Uh, we should have voltage here, right? Because we should have the same thing we had down there and it looks like we do.
Uh, let me get our meter turned back on here. Pick. Uh, we'll turn that on. Our Volt average is 12.7 So same thing that we had done there about 12.8 volts and that's all zoomed in.
so that's coming across screen there. So I'm gonna put a little more time on the screen because this time we're not gonna spin the wheel. we're not going to give it a handy. we're just.
well. I guess we could. We could do Kion engine off and then just spin it. So let me raise the car up here a little bit.
We'll stick it in neutral and then we'll just spin the wheel I Looked at the vehicle up I set it down on a black wood there because it's an open carrier. Um, this way to make sure we spin the drive shaft keys on, it's populating across their screen over here. I'll give her one of these that should be twirling our drive shaft. I Think I didn't see it.
but I assume it is. Oh yeah, look at that. we have speed signal right there. Um, here we can.
We can do this differently so we can all see it, but we've got it set up on the meter there. Yeah, so let me see. Let's see if I can hold this still for you. Turn the wheel and we can see it populating the screen.
So that's good. What's that color that tells us we're good to that connector? Well I Enhanced Dude. Um, so we'll let the car back down. so we need to see if the inputs making it here and then if it is, then well, we either got a bad PCM or some other anomaly.
All right, so that's good. The only thing I guess one thing we could check is we can make sure that our signal is coming out of the bottom of that connector. That would be the next wisest thing. It doesn't look like anybody's fiddled with this. One of the few things that hasn't been touched yet. I Think it worries me like I say ECM Connector is this one loose? loose? That one is tight. That's curious. I'm sure this has been filled with.
That's kind of the sucky part that we're always the last resort for people to bring their cars. So let's kind of deal with things like this. but that's interesting that's loose. I Wonder if this is our white? Here's a black with yellow right here, but that's in pin 40.
So I Don't believe that. I Don't even know if this is the correct connector. I'm gonna go ahead and shut the key off because these are pretty notorious for corroding. We're just going to give it a quick visual inspection.
it's quite loose. Yeah, that one's not tight at all. so neither one of the pins are right there connect which is tight. Now that you have to crush some things down or anything but have a let's see.
so the other things that can happen here is, pins can be bent over. Okay, so that one looks pretty clean, so that's good. that one is loose all the way. I Imagine if this was loose, it wasn't making connection, we'd have more than just one problem.
But best. I Can tell my old eyes that the pins look good in there. There's no corrosion so that's good. We just want to have a look at this.
It's kind of visual now that we have an idea what might be going on not seeing, kind of monkey business or any pins pushed back. Let's find the wire. the black with yellow stripe I think it was pin s is that S I think s27 or I don't know if it was on this diagram. it is since 54.
Uh, vehicle speed input s27 I don't know what the 54 denotes on on that diagram but s27 So I'm assuming pin 27. a lot of times like these inbred Vehicles Here where it's you know half Honda half GM half of doozu Uh, service data can be really sucky I Need to see if I see a pin 27 right off the bat on this one I Do let me just see what color it is. 27 26 27 black with yellow Okay, so that's a pretty good coincidence. if if you believe in those you believe in those missile never never bleeds in a coincidence.
Um, so I'm going to take and finish. this. was already mostly broke. Actually, yeah, it's got.
You had two. Well, three out of six of the tabs already broke. So we'll plug this back in and then we'll We'll back. Probe number 27 here.
black with yellow. See what kind of signal we have If we have our Square signal here. we can only assume at that point that you know the PCM is bad. If we don't have a signal here, then we have a broken wire from this blue connector to there.
Which would be really bizarre because this harness looks pretty well intact. Got it plugged back in? I'm going to use a Pomona We're gonna very gingerly. Pierce that wire. PCMS I'm always a little apprehensive to back probe a lot of wires there close by. you cross the pin. Things can get kind of stupid so we're gonna avoid stupid. We're gonna see hook this up. of course we have no voltage.
let's turn the key on. That will be our first indicator. Here we go look at that. We've got nothing whereas we should have oh maybe I had background.
Okay, never mind, everybody needs to calm down. Why do we have frequency up on the screen? Now go back here to our monitors. We want bolts average down two and here we have a good ground. You're going over to the battery but I'm not and oddly enough there it's 11.1 volts.
Okay, I think we were running around 12 and some change prior. Um I Guess we can carry on our same tests that we were. Let me raise the vehicle back up, put it back in neutral and see if anything changed. When we just got you back here a little bit, a lot of time on our screen here.
All right, two seconds per division. Let's go back here and give the wheel a kick. Let's go up here and see do we have any signal and we have absolutely no signal. Interesting.
Plug it here from the PCM Let's plug back into the blue connector, but not real good at this. Come on baby! There you go. So I probe back into pin 12 there. I Guess it was and now our wait for our average voltage.
You can see our voltage is higher than it was at the PCM. Okay, we put populate here across the screen and our average voltage will go up. It's because we have so much time there, we can just change the time. you know what time it is.
Let's see here. so our average voltage is about 13.. So now if we go back and give the wheel a twirl twirly twirly twirly, we should have some speed signal. And we do.
So What's that? Tell us we have a prop obviously from that connector possibly in that connector to the PCM Pop the uh, blue connector up here because the next logical step because it seems pretty silly if this wire has got something happening between here and you know here here. I Assume it just goes in the harness and goes up here, which it doesn't look like anybody's had their fingers. So I pulled the this blue connector loose here and what we will do is we're going to give her a little poke on the bottom. We got a back probe into the opposite side of it here.
so this is we don't really need to spin it because we know we have a voltage loss. There's some kind of resistance between here and there. it may be in all the way. Let me just just probe it here I hope it's not I'm gonna just try to get beside this connection.
There we go and there you can see where I don't wide this so this is interesting. it doesn't save I Just updated this and it doesn't save my previous monitor setting which I had on both average so volt average 12.8 on the back side of that connector. So that tells us our connector. It's good because when we go to the PCM we only have like 11. head now we have 12.9 What the frick! Let me pull out my back probe. Oh you know what? I when I let me slow down, let's get some time on screen boys. I Think we might have got it? Let me get rid of our monitor there now. sorry this is the AES wave use scope is super duper handy for anybody who's thinking about buying one.
Do it all right? So I got a lot of time on the screen when I pulled this out I swear I saw that flicker down. Ah, look at that boys. You see the little glitch right there. See how she dropped down? Let me try to wiggle this more so I'm plugged into the PCM Okay, there it is.
I'm holding the connector. Funny, our voltage drop down. Oh what? what? Oh there's your problem lady. Oh, night.
Problems fixed. Boom Our problems in this connector. What do you know what he's saying? huh? Turn that. turn the car off.
That's what. Can we still have it neutral? Look at that. It was a no partridge. I didn't even push the button and she popped apart.
What do we have here? Oh, it's got like a seat or something in there. Maybe it's a marijuana seed? Yeah, this looks like this thing may have been unconnected, disconnected for a period of time. Let me move you around. Let's see, there's some dirt crap in there that I don't think we just got in there, you see? Okay, it's got a little seed in there or something probably inhibiting it from being plugged in all the way in.
Is that seed right where? No our wires over there in that corner? Corner Well let me, uh. give this little toot with a blow nozzle. pretty spray. a little contact cleaner in there.
yeah because he doesn't get junk in it and I think we'll be good. Look at that. Easy fix baby! I'm gonna go do a trailer inspection here for a guy I'm gonna have taken give her a little douching of the DX E5 let her set tore around, blower, back out, plug it in. we're out of here.
we go now. She clicked stick these all back together. Now the green one up on there foreign and then somebody had this white one down I don't know if it's broken. We'll see if we can't stick that back there.
Let's go ahead and fire it up. I got it raised up a little bit I'm just going to drop it and drive. We'll see if we have a speed signal at PCM now. key must be off right now if I put it in Drive There we go.
So we have speed signal now. see right there. Oh it's electronic throttle if you can't do anything with it. but let me grab the scan tool we should have.
We'll jump into live data before we didn't have speed signal here but we had it on the pedometer so we'll go with speed. Oh yeah, look at that zero over there. you can see we have speed signal now running about. You know, six to seven miles an hour. Here we'll go over a little juice a little bit frequency increase there baby. All right. Well at least that was an easy one. It's too bad somebody shot the parts cannon at it, fricked up all the wiring because you know now you got more problems that you didn't have before.
Uh, we're gonna go through where I'm going to go through. gonna cover up my little hole pokes here of course these. uh, Pomonas or however you pronounce it, wire piercers here. These things are ultra fine.
Let's see if I can find a link for them. The little needle that comes up there is is ultra fine and you just got to get it in just past the insulation. and oftentimes when you take it out the insulation kind of self heal especially if you just hit it with a lighter. and sometimes it's very difficult to find where you poke the hole in unless you know you really give her full beans.
But I'm gonna go through and fix that. I'm gonna put this cover on the best that we can get the PCM put back and I got a couple poke holes underneath I'm gonna fix and then we're going to ship this thing down the road ad quick recap folks. make sure everybody's on the same page. Uh, there's our speed sensor.
Our initial process from beginning was to check to verify that we have power which was coming right from this relay which was fed from a 30 amp fuse. We had good power and good ground because we could light a 5 amp test slate and then our next thing we did is we checked to make sure that we had signal coming out. Now the only anomaly there was the service. They said it was supposed to be a nine volt you know, a nine volt Square wave but we've seen that it wasn't We've seen that it was, you know, 12 volts or closer to battery voltage.
so it's neither here nor there. And then the big clue should have been looking at this and seeing how this works. You know how the signal comes out, goes to the speedometer and then it comes out and throws PCM The big clue was the sphenometer worked when I pulled the car in, the ECM was staying at you know, zero mphs. Uh, regardless what speedometer said.
So with that being said, we could have made the assumption that this is good. This is good. This wire is good. Our problem is on on this leg somewheres.
we could have done that without even getting under the vehicle and making any uh making any tests. However, the tests we did under there were pretty quick so it's not a not too big a deal. And then we check this connector right here the C115. We had a good you know waveform on on this half of it, but when we checked on this half you know we saw that we had some voltage loss and uh which was kind of bizarre I actually I think what we did if I remember correctly is we checked it on this side and that was okay.
We checked on this side and it seemed okay and then I remember checking the PCM and all of a sudden that was okay and I'm like hold up, wait a minute, something ain't right because a minute ago that was not okay and then when I pulled this back probe out all of a sudden this flickered a little bit and that's when that's when we discovered uh, where the issue was. so hopefully it all makes sense. Pretty simple circuit, easy diagnosis, and I just hope you guys enjoyed it I Know I enjoyed it. The only thing I don't 100 enjoy is when the car comes in, it's already botched up so it's already been there. They've already put the sensors in there, they've already cut all the wiring, They've already tried everything. It just gets a little frustrating sometimes because it makes my work look like a bunch of hackery. You know, because obviously there's going to be other stuff that's going to fail as a result of people getting in there and meddling with things out not be meddling in I'm not saying don't try and fix your car yourself, but I just wish that once in a while one car would come in that was a virgin it wasn't already at the other shop and I already molested a whole bunch of times before I got here. That's the only thing that kind of stinks, but it is what it is.
I'm always people's last option which I don't know why I'm not I'm not overly expensive actually. usually my repairs are a fraction of the price of what they paid at the other shop. To get all the guesses you know, they say good work isn't cheap and cheap work isn't good, right? Anyhow, how about you guys be good to me and go in. that comment section questions, comments, concerns The Entity the Facebook You guys know what to do and uh, while you're down there, make sure you subscribe, ring the bell all this stuff and uh, just murder beers I can do it.
You can do it. Thanks for watching foreign.
You are excellent. I don't know anybody better than you for electrical
Nice catch! Great video. Thanks.
Your recap at the end of the video was so detailed and helpful for those trying to learn. Thanks
Why don' t you use your $2,000.000,000.00 endowmwnt that you are sitting on
Easy diagnosis.. I think not. Glad you could figure that out… Kudos once again Eric…
Impressive electrical trouble shooting. People expect the stealership or their normal busy garage to fix it. Maybe Eric, just think of yourself as being the consultant doctor who eventually gets referred to when the others have run out of ideas. As auto electronics get sketchier you can only get busier and its vital that people like you mentor the next generation to keep our cars going.
Sensational job explaining the logic. You make these look so simple after so many gave tried and failed. Keep up the sensational work.
Way back when I used to find the wires broken on those on the driver's side control arm above the rear And I believe the ABS sensor and the vehicle speed sensor are in the diff
I love the way eric gets so excited when he discovers the problem!
OMG. Love the free fixes when it's you're own car
Looks like a Isuzu MU? I have a holden frontera(Australian GMH badged Isuzu) with the big 3.2V6, looks to be same except for the badges
Your jobs pretty easy. All the obvious stuff has already been changed. Lmao
You sir are the GOAT of diagnostics! I have no idea how much a fix like this might cost, but I'm glad I got to watch it to the end. Amazing work!
Try a quick spray of De-Oxit 5 for those crusty terminals..
Where did buy the you scope??worlds smallest scope????lol
How is that thing not completely rusted out??
I see you had the ECU just sitting there un-clamped. I have to tell you about one time I did that on a Mazda RX-8 and chased all sorts of codes for days. Turned out the ECU was getting it's reference ground through the ECU mounting bolts, and having it loose like that caused all sorts of issues. Don't know if you ever ran into something like that, but something I always keep in mind now when unmounting an ECU 🙂
Eric, you always ask for comments. I love the way you methodically run crap down. You're always concerned for the customer. I have worked on cars for over 60 years but am too old now to get around unde them and on top. I love your videos and the way you solve problems, from the most ccomplex to the easy trak downs. Keep up the great work from an old man in southern Idaho. Oh, and we don't have that much rust here. I've got a 2014 GMC Savannah with 138,000 on it with only minor surface rust on some of the components. I don't know if I could work in the rust belt. Thanks.
I have a similar problem with the 2000 Dodge. 1500 It has a p0720 Code
And zzafter it gets warmed up. Good, it just shuts off, After it cools down, then it starts up about 20 minutes later.
You know anybody with comparable electrical tracing skills in Kansas City…03 Toyota Matrix I4 automatic….speedo starts bouncing…trans drops in and out of gear…will even kill engine at times. Toyota talked my sister into replacing cats before they could troubleshoot it then said they could not troubleshoot it. Code said bad speed sensor I replaced it and driven gear to no change in symptoms. HELP!!! Even considered shipping car to you…sis said no.
You may not get a parade, but you get baked goods on a regular basis.
After your videos people should make you the first shop to stop at if they was smart
You're like the master technician man like a magician with a car trick! You should market your auto shop as The Most Trusted diagnostics for your vehicles with accuracy. And in small print include for only a fraction of the costs than our competitors.
Seriously admire your work! You are like a "dog with a bone" until you figure it out! Did I mention, fun to watch too?🥸😃
"Good work isn't cheap and cheap work isn't good." (Eric O., 2023) Amen brother! Another great/enjoyable vid –thanks for sharing!
Great job sir!!!!
Hi Eric where did you buy that small orange scope please thanks
That was a bloody tricky one to decipher. Well done!
You would be my first option every time Eric.
New slogan. SMA "Your last stop where problems are fixed, not broken" 😂
👍 you're the man as always! Thanks for sharing and the great explanations.
That's an Isuzu Rodeo badged as a Honda Passport that was owned by GM, assembled by Subaru in Lafayette Indiana. IYKYK
What do we have here?🤔
We have a “Cool Hand Luke, a failure to communicate” type problem.😳
Last 2 minutes… perfect!
What Oscilloscope is that and how much
gettin all high and that on the ganja, Josh, close ur ears 🙉
Yeah give me 3-6x's…Mrs."O"
I have a 1988 Civic. Speedo worked fine and I had the VSS code for years. After years of parts-cannon, it wound up being the ECU.
Great video as always, but I am confused. If you were still getting voltage to the PCM, albeit there was a voltage drop across the connector, why wasn't the square wave showing up? Was the voltage we were seeing at the PCM not from the VSS?
Eric, what is your go to scan tool?
Great job
can you please tell us how much did you charge for it???
it is a perfect example of knowing where to knock story 🤩
For all the weird problems you have found, you should write a book! Thanks for another interesting video.
Great job as always Eric. Thank you.
That’s why they send their problem children to you.
I was an Electrician in the Navy. I was able to track down intermittent signal losses with some trouble. Knowing how to track a problem is crucial.
I suspected a pushed out pin on the PCM. Finding the blue connector un-clicked was excellent!
I didn't know if I've seen that trick before and wasn't paying attention or you just made it make more sense but anyway using the low current test light to check the signal wire is not short of the ground. That's a time saver there! Thanks
Eric O
Honda Passport were rebadged Isuzu Rodeos. The only difference was the badges. They had a lot of GM parts because GM was the major owner of Isuzu and Subaru at the time. They were built at the Subaru Isuzu Automotive plant in Lafayette Indiana. Which is now just a subaru plant. Isuzu motor but GM transmission if its automatic.
Eric your videos are alway excellent regardless of how dumb you think they might be. I always look forward to your videos. I’ve been a mechanic for over 50 years and I learn something new every time. Thank you for your efforts.
Your always looking for non OEM parts and other people's wiring mistakes.