Last Video Pt 3: Mechanic Almost Blown UP! WELDING Tools to Customers Car! 2012 Chevy 5.3 https://youtu.be/z9MioToiMDk
Hummer H2 Video oil pan video that I mentioned: Remove Axle! Engine Oil Leak! 2008 Hummer H2 https://youtu.be/8ioNRmJKCW8
Prior Videos in this series:
Part 1... Flaming Metal Chunks! 2012 Chevrolet Avalanche 5.3 4x4 Oil Leaks https://youtu.be/UwBgm3HsEpo
Part 2...Oil Leak Turned AVALANCHE! 2012 Chevrolet Avalanche 5.3 4X4 Pt2 https://youtu.be/dTTRcv01p3A
Oil to the FACE! Remove Transmission! 2010 Tahoe https://youtu.be/nfKy_O4x4SY
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Patreon is a "Tip Jar" I don't post much there, daily YT uploads are all that I can manage for now
Amazon List, must have for any toolbox!
Mountain 5-Piece Metric Double Box Universal Spline Reversible Ratcheting Wrench Set; 8 mm - 18mm, 90 Tooth Design, Long, Flexible, Reversible; MTNRM6 https://amzn.to/3OJTRp2
Mercedes BMW VW Wheel Stud Master Kit: https://amzn.to/3OszRaL
Bahco "Frustrated" Pliers AWESOME tool! https://amzn.to/3IfDeOa
Brake Caliper Compressor: https://amzn.to/3gQBuiB
My Camera Gear:
Gopro Hero 10 https://amzn.to/3AaxELe
Gopro Hero 9 https://amzn.to/3EKDcM1
Hero 9&10 Dual Battery Charger MUST HAVE! https://amzn.to/3g5KdAT
Flexible Camera Mount https://amzn.to/3Jywrk5
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”Intro Music by Karl Casey @ White Bat Audio”
Thanks to Jesse for making the intro and graphic for us to enjoy!!!
“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
Hummer H2 Video oil pan video that I mentioned: Remove Axle! Engine Oil Leak! 2008 Hummer H2 https://youtu.be/8ioNRmJKCW8
Prior Videos in this series:
Part 1... Flaming Metal Chunks! 2012 Chevrolet Avalanche 5.3 4x4 Oil Leaks https://youtu.be/UwBgm3HsEpo
Part 2...Oil Leak Turned AVALANCHE! 2012 Chevrolet Avalanche 5.3 4X4 Pt2 https://youtu.be/dTTRcv01p3A
Oil to the FACE! Remove Transmission! 2010 Tahoe https://youtu.be/nfKy_O4x4SY
www.RainmanRaysRepairs.com
Visit my Second Channel on YouTube, RainmanRay Off Duty https://www.youtube.com/c/RainmanRayOutoftheShop
Follow on Twitter: @RainmanRay4Real
TikTok: www.tiktok.com/ @rainman_rays_repairs
Check out my Merchandise (because I don't say MERCH) for Men's and Women's Apparel, MUGS and Stickers! https://rainmanraysrepairs.myspreadshop.com/
Support the channel on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
Patreon is a "Tip Jar" I don't post much there, daily YT uploads are all that I can manage for now
Amazon List, must have for any toolbox!
Mountain 5-Piece Metric Double Box Universal Spline Reversible Ratcheting Wrench Set; 8 mm - 18mm, 90 Tooth Design, Long, Flexible, Reversible; MTNRM6 https://amzn.to/3OJTRp2
Mercedes BMW VW Wheel Stud Master Kit: https://amzn.to/3OszRaL
Bahco "Frustrated" Pliers AWESOME tool! https://amzn.to/3IfDeOa
Brake Caliper Compressor: https://amzn.to/3gQBuiB
My Camera Gear:
Gopro Hero 10 https://amzn.to/3AaxELe
Gopro Hero 9 https://amzn.to/3EKDcM1
Hero 9&10 Dual Battery Charger MUST HAVE! https://amzn.to/3g5KdAT
Flexible Camera Mount https://amzn.to/3Jywrk5
#brakecleanmafia #wifeunit #rainman #comnissionearned
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Also, I personally use or have used the products featured in my links and only recommended them if I feel they are of good quality.
”Intro Music by Karl Casey @ White Bat Audio”
Thanks to Jesse for making the intro and graphic for us to enjoy!!!
“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
Hello everybody! Good day to you! Welcome back! Glad you are here! This is the transmission from a 2012 Chevrolet Avalanche You can see it's four wheel drive I've got this on the bench right now and uh, we just finished up digging out those nasty, broken off, rusted in exhaust manifold bolts and I am now in a position. yeah, see that one there. These ones were nasty. I'm now in a position where uh I can go ahead and start prepping the back of this engine block and we can get that rear main seal and uh, and the cover reinstalled.
If you missed any of the videos on this particular truck, including the tear down and disassembly, uh, no worries, just check this video's description and there will be a series of links down there in chronological order that can take you back in time to the previous operations on this particular truck. So that being said, let's go ahead and wipe this down. get all the oil off of it. Uh, we're gonna go ahead and get that rear cover unboxed and reinstalled and then we're going to proceed to get the transmission reinstalled in this on this vehicle.
So stay tuned because this is gonna be a very good video opening. Z Hood Oh yeah, yeah yeah. One more disclaimer: also I did not record the oil pan gasket replacement on this truck I've done several of those operations before, so if you wish to see one of those, I will also include a link uh, probably to an H2 Hummer down in this Video subscription I will show you the LS engine oil pan removal, cleaning and installation procedure ending of Shameless Self-promotion now opening Z Hood All right, we're coming in with our replacement rear cover. You can see it's got the crankshaft steel seal installed.
This little spacer thing is designed to allow the seal to slip over the crank without getting hung up and twisted which is good. There is a gasket that runs around the perimeter of it as well as that top oil Galley up there. So what we need to do is Sneak this guy into position snap it into place and we will cinch it down with the back oil pan bolts. That way we create a good seal right here at the back of this uh, oil pan gasket and then we can get the remainder of the bolts installed and we can get this thing torqued down to spec.
Now first things first, we need to make sure that the corners on this pan are free and clear of debris. If I can't get some light in here, make sure this right here. This area in particular and this area in particular are clean, clear dirt, debris and oil. and then we have to add some sealant to these Corners That way oil cannot Wick out along all these scenes where they meet up right here.
so I'll just get that really real good with a towel. Nice and shiny. that's good a little bit right there. Clean that up and we can go ahead and get a little uh dab of sealant installed.
Yeah, nothing crazy, just whoa. That was too much. something. That was something crazy.
Yeah, a little bit of RTV came out faster than what I expected. Oops, that's a little much, but it'll smear out when. uh, when we tighten everything down a little bit over here in that corner. Press that stuff in real nice. Like that's good. That side's good. Okay, we can go ahead and get that cover in okey-dokes cover coming in. let's see how this is gonna go.
We have to get it at a slight angle at first. All right, we're committed now. Okay, the cover is over the rear, over the rear seal. This is good.
a little bit more, a little more, a little more terrific. Let's get some of these bolts threaded so it can't pop back off. That would be bad. All right, she's in position.
Wonderful. Okay, so first things first. it's going to be the two super long bolts that come up through the oil pan and then pull this unit down in order to make a seal here at the oil pan gasket. and we need to get that.
ASAP And first, because if we don't get these bolts in position, then uh, we could end up with a leak right here. right where we started from. Oh, you're not gonna go and as soon as I can pull this thing down tight against the oil pan gasket will go up around the rest of the perimeter. and uh, get all the cover bolts in.
See how it squeezed out that residual oil that was between the pan gasket and uh, in the actual pan itself? That's what that was. No harm though, that's not going to affect the ceiling. that was just oil that was between here and it just kind of squirted out when we pulled that thing down. but it looks terrible.
so I'm gonna wipe that off. We don't want that goodbye squeezed out oil. Perfect. all right.
Now let's run around the rest of the perimeter of this cover and get the rest of these bolts. uh, tightened down a little bit. Oh by the way, this new cover came with new bolts, which is really cool because that allows me to add to my Fastener collection. That one there, you'll notice I didn't load this thing up full of silicone all the way around it.
We don't need a sealant on everything, especially in places where there's already a seal. Foreign. So far, so good. Okay Ducks Torque Wrench time.
Uh, we're not doing actual clicks. We're doing BP clicks because I Felt like using this one. We're doing 22 foot pounds of torque. 19.
21. And 22. it's not there yet. 21.8 22.006 Got it? Okay, 22.06 foot pounds of torque? You guys see that? Yep, another let's do this one next Right here.
One more recheck. Just make sure I didn't miss any. Yep, we're all good. It's everybody's torque.
22 foot pounds of torque. This is good. Now we're in a position to go ahead and grab that trans and get that guy reinstalled. Let's roll it on over transmission cam.
First time for everything. Whoa. This thing does not like to drive straight. We're all over the road All right.
Let's get this guy spun around. Point in the right direction here and we can get her lifted up and bolt it back together. moving on up one inch at a time. Remember the tail shaft has to go over that cross member first and then it's got to go up and uh, off to the right which is going to be back from our point of view. And then we can get the uh, the bell housing to clear the back of the oil pan. Well, that didn't work you guys? Okay, okay, we are. We're super close. I'm kind of pushing it back and we're gonna go up and over that cross member and then we'll swing this side over here around and made it up to the back of the engine.
We need to give it all the upset it's got all the way up all right. We're kind of in the home stretch. We're uh, I'm just going to turn this, straighten it out, and then bring it up the rest of the way and we can meet up with the uh, the bell housing or the bell housing and we'll meet up with the back of the engine. All right, we're pretty close.
We're getting there a little bit more up and then I'll get the lean back to the rear one more time and once it's leaned to the rear, we can get everything lined up. This is good foreign back up the whole time. I'm looking around making sure nothing's being pinched, smashed, bent, displaced. Etc because I don't want to pull this out again.
My concept's also going to go for the brackets and all the wires that are up at the top. You don't want to pitch that stuff between the bell housing and the engine block. That's a bad day. Okay, we're looking good everywhere.
Let's move her forward. some. There we go. let's get real close to the uh oh holy smokes.
I Forgot the flex plate that oh my. God that could have been so horrible. Yeah, my brain's fried. Hang on redo.
I'm just gonna sneak it in there real quick. I Can't believe that. Yeah, that could have been the most epic failure ever of epic failures. I Can't believe that just happened.
Oops, let's see now. I Can't see where the bolts line up on this thing. This makes this harder and I'm not taking that transmission back out. So so no.
yep and we're gonna be okay. thanks to the 90 degree impacting tools, we'll be able to get in there and get these guys tight. I Threw some thread lock on them so no worries. Still gonna be a tight squeeze I Cannot believe I almost did that.
that would have been so terrible. Put everything back together and look over and I go to put the torque converter bolts in and there's no flex plate. What a nightmare. I Think my brain's fried.
No more critical thinking for me or planning lick. Oh slip that one. Come here. These super shallow sockets don't really grip that well.
They're good sockets, but they don't have loads of a holding power nor do the bolts that go into this. uh, flex plate here. Crisis averted again. Okay, now that I have figured out what I'm doing here, let's go ahead and run this trans back up and we'll get the dowel pins aligned and we'll start securing this thing to the engine. Okay A Little bit of wiggling, a little bit of up. Let's move our wiring harnesses and brackets out of the way a little bit more up. We're pretty close. the angle's not right, but so far so good.
We're really close again. We're trying to get this hole lined up with that PIN and once I get it close I'll run one of the bolts in and just to secure it all. and then we'll go to the other side and do the same thing. We'll get one bolt in it to.
uh, make sure it's lined up I need to get the tail up a little higher. let's kind of I'm dragging. it's pretty close. a little bit more.
there we go I wonder if I just kind of give it a push. It's like so close. One more push there we go. Okay, that one slid in.
That's perfect. Let's put a bolt in it so it can't slide back out. So what I'm doing is I'm rotating this knob and that's going to move the platform and it's going to rotate the transmission this way to bring that uh, that bolt into alignment with the uh, the hole because right now it's It lines up but it's at an angle so we just need to rotate this thing to bring that angle proper and then we can get that one bolt in. We don't need to run it all the way down, we just want to keep the thing from uh from being able to twist and turn and torque.
There we go a little more. it's pretty close. it's pretty good. I got about two and a half turns into it I can't turn it by hand.
Let me put a little, uh, a small wrench on it just to get one like one more turn out of this. Like I said, the goal is not to tighten this down, it's just to prevent the transmission from enabling being able to back off and come off of that pin. That's all I'm trying to achieve here soon as that head of this Bolt bottoms out on the bell housing, that'll be enough to kind of hold the thing. Okay, let's get the other side aligned real quick and then we can push this thing forward and get it all mated together.
All right, let's go over here to the passenger side and again we can. There's our pin here is there's the hole right there and we just need to get that pin in hole. made it together and then again one more bolt here just to kind of draw it all in. Now make no mistake.
I'm not. uh, a little bit more. I'm not over here. Um, using these bolts just to just hope for the best and pull this stuff together I'm just using them to allow the pins to align and then once our pins are good, we can draw it in.
There are many that say you know you can't just run bolts into it and and just cinch the thing down and hope for the best and they're correct. You don't want to do that, but once those pins are in place and the thing is sitting flush and you're good. Okay, that pins, uh, pretty much right on point. So that's good.
Still isn't super tight. Perfect. Nice. Everything's flush. This is good looking up. I'm rechecking to make sure nothing's pinched in between. and uh, from this side, we're good. And from this side, we're good.
All right now. we can go ahead and get the rest of the bolts in and continue reassembly. So here's what I'm going to do in an effort to drastically reduce how long this thing is going to be. I'm going to fast forward past all these bolts and whatnot.
and uh, we're just going to skip ahead a little bit. Okie Dokes We've fast forwarded through time a little bit. Dipstick tubes in bell housing is bolted together I got I have all the electrical conductors connected I've got the lines on their brackets. Those guys are bolted in so all of the uh, the unsolar equipment that bolts onto this trans has been installed.
Uh, next up, it's time to go ahead and get that exhaust set up and fitted. So I pretty much made an entire video about extracting all of those uh, damaged and broken off nuts, bolts, and studs and whatnot. I've got those guys all removed. The threads are all still intact in the flanges.
I Cleaned that up a little bit. So let's go ahead and get the pipe. We'll fit that thing into position and then I'll put the new studs in and I'll run the bolts down nuts and we can get that exhaust installed now. I've got a pair of fresh gaskets here so you'll notice that they're different.
one slips into. Oh, hang on, that one goes on the manifold. This one goes into that flange right there. so let's get that thing pressed in there.
Yep, and if you recall, we had to remove this to gain access to one of those bolts. So I'll take it back out. We'll set this thing aside and then back over to the truck and we can put this uh, I call it the donut gasket. We'll slide that guy back in.
Good to go. Come on, Why pipe? let's get this thing up into its home here. Let's see how this is gonna go up and over this giant crossmember bracket here and it's not fitting that way. Let's try again there.
Okay, let's get this pushed up a little higher and I can get this flange around two of these studs and that's gonna secure this unit. kind of. Uh, sorry guys. I know y'all can't see I'm getting one of the nuts on right now.
That way it can't fall out and smash me. Oh, you totally can't see. Oh man, and the lens fell off. This is bad.
I hit you with an exhaust. So as I was saying, I got one of the I have one of the nuts on so now it can't fall out. Let's go over here to the driver's side and we'll put the studs in and the nuts. All right.
let's thread these bad boys in. They're not going to be too happy about going in there. Those holes were. well, they've been through a lot.
Hmm I'm gonna have to, uh, readjust this strategy right here. That's how I'm gonna do this: I think I have no choice but to do it like this because I can't get those really to run down very far. So I'll get them started and then I'll put the nut on them and then perhaps the nut will have enough friction to run the studs in on the Uh on the flange side or the manifold side. Rather, you know, I probably could have installed these studs. uh prior to putting this pipe up and maybe I should have I didn't realize this is gonna hose me an extra extra problem. We'll figure it out. no worries, send it. It's actually not too bad if I hold up a new stud I Can see here that it's got full thread engagement and I can feel the stud on the Uh on the back side.
So I guess that's okay. Um, let's see. well I know I'm gonna turn the stud into a bolt I'll flip it around and then it has no choice because it's going to bottom out the nut right there. at that unthreaded section.
You'll have no choice but to run that stud all the way up. That's what I'll do I'll just do it uh, backwards. Get on there gravitas as Latin for gravity Go baby. Go! Yep, that's what we want to see.
That's what I'm gonna do. Let's give this thing the reach around treatment here and get that back stud DED and run down. Okay, it's going in. This is good.
Very good manifold. click That's hot. Okay. I'm gonna flip this stud too.
Okay, the stud and nut are flipped. Let's get this guy in threading. now. There we go.
Send it. Okay, that's too tight. We got this one right here. Number three.
All right. that flange is on. Okay, we're up on the flange on the other side. Ah, this is the hard to reach one.
Let's get that guy started. There we go. Okay, that's two started and then we have to thread the stud and one nut on this side. See if I can get this guy started in there.
These ones I cannot put in backwards I Don't think All right? I shouldn't Really? No, no. I'm gonna have to. Yeah. I'm gonna have to run that one in.
Threads are still pretty rough on the flange side. Also, they're not stripped, but they're just loaded full of rust and they're deformed. There we go. Okay, let's get that nut started and then we can run.
Uh, run all these ones down and we're good here. Nice. That felt good. That felt good.
Sure, Okay, the last one, you can't see slippage. All right, that one's in. Let's tighten these down the rest of the way. Nice.
All right. Exhaust is reinstalled. Let's uh, while we're here, let's go in there, move the starter out of the way, get the torque converter bolts installed, and then we'll put that starter back. Okay, so what we're gonna do is, we're looking back into the transmission again.
You see the bolt there I'm going to reach around the flywheel and I'm going to turn that torque converter until I see bolts and looky there, there's one right there. There's the threads. see that? I Know it's uh, tough to see, but I got one of them lined up. So let's uh, let's get that first. uh, torque converter bolt threaded in and then we'll uh, we'll rotate the unit around and get the other two. Okay, bolt number one's ready to go in. It has a foreign lock on it and it fell down. Hang on.
I Gotta get that started by hand. I Cannot do it with the machinery to get that thing started that's going in. thread it down and I'm not going to tighten it all the way because we have to get the other two torque converter bolts lined up. So what'd I do there? It is.
What we need to do is get this guy up on the crank and we're going to rotate this crankshaft 120 degrees, not 33 120 degrees. We're just going to spin this guy around until that other bolt comes into position or the hole rather. And then when that thing's lined up right about here, we'll get the next one installed. See thread lock please.
Right there. Yay! It's kind of a lot. Yeah, Fling it I hear a Volkswagen Okay, that one's in Thread that guy in real quick and we need to turn that crank slightly. There we go and we will torque it.
We'll get the final torque in a minute. Once they're all three installed, spin it around. spinning, spinning another 120 degrees or 33.33333333 of a circle. That's what I meant.
more thread lock and that one's also threaded all right. Ran that one down and now I can apply some torque to that unit. Okay, we're reaching up with the ratchet and I've got to apply torque with one hand and I've got to hold the crank with the other hand. See how I can do this here? This isn't in like its most perfect position ever.
It'll slip off. but I think we got it here. All right and click all right. There's one another.
120 degrees turning, turning turning. There's the bolt. it's exposed all right coming up to torque, but it came off. Hang on.
Try again. There we go. One more eighth of a turn. Perfect last one.
Now not all engines have just three. Some have, uh, some have five, some F6 I don't know if any have four? I'm sure there's one out there, but uh, this particular one has three. Chum Getting toy and kick. All right.
Torque converter is installed. Let's go ahead and get that starter in position here. Tired of looking at it? Come on down. Starter right there.
We do need to get this plastic cover in before we put that starter in that just kind of slips up in position there and then bolts to the oil pan right there. Stay by the way, those are very often forgotten. and I don't do it. But I find these all the time when they're missing this little cover.
Foreign. There's actually two, one for both sides. All right. Starter: What are you doing there? Come on, get in.
Why are we not going with this problem there? Got it? Okay, Starter bolt number one coming in. Let's push this thing in position first before I try to run this bolt in. I Would love to not cross thread this. Uh, we're already sideways. Hang on here there. Now we're not sideways. we're straightways foreign. I'm losing it.
losing control of my situation here guys. I Think winter time's over. It's getting a little warmer around here. I'm sweating my first sweat in mini sweats many moons.
there's one Okay. Both starter bolts clicked okay. Moving back a little bit. Let's uh.
let's go ahead and get the cross member for the transmission installed. I've got to raise this up a little bit. I think but I can get the two bolts on for the trans mount that will hold this thing. Get those in.
Oh, come on, please. thread there. it goes. Okay, here's one.
Okay now. I'll just use the uh the post Jack right here to raise this up. So I'm okay. A couple bolts, four of them.
actually. let's get two of them and there's one. and then we'll get one over here. On this side.
Foreign. There we go. Sweet. Now we're safe.
Let's get the other two bolts in and the nuts and we'll tighten everything down. Then we can move on to the drive shafts. All the nuts are in angular kicks two and of course, two more over here on the passenger side. Loud.
We go. and last but not least, 15 in the 15.. actually, let me let the weight of this Trans down on the mount first. I'd hate to pull the studs out of the mount.
That would be bad. It's tight, Trans is secure, it's bolted in onto the drive shaft. All right. Moving back, let's get our drive shaft installed here.
We're gonna do the uh, the yolk end First, Slip that guy in the back of the trans. There's no master spline here, so it just kind of goes in as it as it sees fit. There we go. All right now.
back here. let's get this thing lined up, extended and seated. Perfect. Okay, we've got two straps, four bolts.
Let's get these guys started. We'll run these down and then torque them. and uh, then we can go ahead and get the front drive shaft in like we're Uh, we're almost in the home stretch here, which is fantastic. Put that guy in Okay.
I'll do this the same way. I removed it, put a pry bar in there to hold everything, and then we'll give it some torque with a wrench. and I'm going to make sure that the, uh, this little strap is bottomed out on the yoke looks good there. Let's get this one tight.
It's kind of tough to gauge tightness when everything's all rusted. Okay, two more here. Try to switch hands. get noodle arm I'm noodly right there.
good. All right. Drive shafts in. let's get the front shaft next.
Actually, before we put that front drive shaft in I need to put this thing back in park and then get the shift lever installed. You'll notice it was turning very freely because I have it neutral. So two clicks that's Park that slides on and then a another 15 mil nut. There we go.
Nice place, all right coming in. Beginning shaft insertion. now about. so wiggle that thing in. Come on. Chef Is there a Master's line? What is it? There it goes? Got it? You know? Well, we're here. I'm just gonna throw some grease in there. couldn't hurt there you go.
Skid it? all in there in that snack here. Okay, all right up here. on the front side of our shaft. You just pry this guy in position.
Give it a Twist Get in there. Okay. Front drive shaft set up two more straps, four more bolts. Now that trans doesn't have to be in neutral for this to rotate because the transfer case is always in neutral.
I Misspoke: The front drive shaft is not engaged or neutral unless you, uh, have it in four-wheel drive. which you should not. You should have that in too high until you need four high or four low. I Don't know what's wrong with people that run around thinking they can drive around in four high all the time.
That's uh, that's not okay. I'm gonna break some stuff. Get in there all right guys. We are nearly finished here, but there is one critical step that we completely forgot to handle and that is on oiling the oil spill.
Ah, the fans pointed at me. Hang on. That was a dumb idea. Hey, you know what? Let's we're just gonna go over here.
We need to. We're getting flames. Need to maneuver aggressive Maneuvers Evasive evasive, aggressive maneuvers. You got to get all that oil out of here.
You can't Can't ship it with a oil drips and whatnot. That'd be terrible I Hear it all right? Goodbye. We don't need another. Uh thank you Okie Dokes trucks coming down.
Let's get her on the ground, fill it up with oil, and then we can finally start in the engine now. I'm not completely finished uh with this thing just yet I still have a sway bar on the ground I need to put back in and I'm also going to do a couple services on this. uh, one of which is going to be the transmission fluid exchange I might make a video about that I might not. This one is just going to be comprised primarily of uh, this oil leak repair operation.
Now listen: I'm not putting Amazon oil in this and I'm certainly not putting 520 in this. I'm just using this jug as a transfer jug. pouring things. Okay, we've got six quarts installed.
Check the level later, let's get the battery reconnected and then we may restarting the engine with that guy in there. Um, okay. battery cable clicks coming in a couple turns with 10. Milli Lock this down and then we may restart the engine.
You guys nervous? It's a lot of work we just did I'm not nervous. it's either gonna work or something's gonna tear up and I gotta do it all over again. All right. Restarting it is alive All right.
Do we have oil pressure? There it is. We have a little pressure taking a look down below. What is that? An air pump? Something to make a noise? Thank you. Stop.
all right, let's run this thing back up and inspect it for leaks. Move them back up. All right, taking a look. Well, we're getting a lot of smoke coming off the exhaust. That's just all that oil and whatnot. It's gonna start burning away as this thing heats up. No leaks here. like I mentioned.
we did an oil pan gasket on this as well. There's no leaks up here. it's all looking. Cherry I Love it again.
I Need to spray that off. Foreign put together, bolted in. Good to go. This is a resounding success.
Electronics are connected here. Exhaust is clamped on. No exhaust leaks there. No leaks up at the manifolds on either side.
That is good. Super duper. This is a resounding success. A lot of work, but we got through it all right guys.
Uh, All that being said, I'm going to close this video out. We're done so for this one. As always, like to thank you for watching this video. Hope you enjoyed this video or this series of videos.
If you missed any of the other episodes again, this is part three. Uh, the links for the other episodes will be down in this video's description down below. There's also a bonus video in there where I'm torching out all these other nasty studs and bolts and nuts and whatnot and that was a lot of fun. I Took all day so I had to make an entire video about that anyway.
I'm rambling on. If you want to see any of those of the other stuff on this truck again, just check the links down below. It'll take you back in time. You can see everything else in Greater detail.
So again and as always, thank you for watching this video. And most importantly, do not forget to have yourselves a great day! See you guys later! End of: Chevrolet Avalanche.
Amazingly difficult job and a credit to your patience and persistence. But could you imagine doing that whole job on jack-stands?!
Was about to comment Ray no ray flywheel is missing till I seen u caught the issue 😂
BOOT AT TRANSAXLE
😲😲 I missed the X-files themesong!
Tech tip you might want to share. Be certain no wires have fallen between the engine block and the bell housing before tightening the transmission bolts.
FLYWHEEL!!!!!
ANOTHER DRY SEAL.
I was screaming at the phone….FLEXPLATE!😂🤣😅
sounds like a diesel
Trans. jack seems really unstable. If it's as bad as it looks, I'd try to find something better.
Seems like quite a bit of work to change the main seal. I know/think you bill on estimated times from some book, but this job took quite a bit longer than normal with spending a day extracting the studs. Who pays for all that extra time, you or the customer? If it's you, then you're not making any money on jobs like this (outside of video revenue). I was thinking maybe $3000 in labor alone. Time to go watch your new video on the Jeep Grand Cherokee that defeated you…
Another great job, Ray.
I was watching screaming at my phone saying you forgot the flexplate lol.
i was yelling at the tv screen FLEX PLATE!!!! RAY NO!!! LOL
Nothing wrong with Amazon oil
Anyone else hear a knocking?
I feel for Ray. He works in Florida, yet still has to deal with rust issues from snowbirds or transplants.
That torque wrench would aggravate me
Lol I hate that electronic torque wrench.
I bet that job cost a lot.
tisk tisk Ray where are your steel toed boots
A few years ago a mechanic friend replaced both crank seals on my 4.3L Chevy. He also did both oil pan and transmission gaskets and a few other things for $750. After seeing all the work on this video I realized he grossly undercharged me.
The million dollar question, did you beat book time?
2001 ford explorer sports trac 4.0 has 4 torque converter bolts
FLEX PLATE IS THE THING TO START OR TURNING THE STATER TO START THE CAR
I was screaming flex plate lol glad you caught it great job rainman 👍
Man all this work and you fell short at the end man why are you struggling with all that stuff in you should of put those studs in before the trans lmao making things harder for no reason. Its like watching that horror movie and the kids run towards the guy with the chainsaw
It's a chevy just junk it !!!
Don't forget seal
Dieselgate anyone? Ray: hold my brakeclean!!
I’m putting a claim in I banged my head when you knocked the camera over 😂
Never!!@@
Cross thread Ray wins again.
Never enough time to do it right the first time but PLENTY of time to do it right the second time !
given that those studs on the exhaust flange were a major problem, due mostly to the exposed section poking through the top of the flange weathering and heat cycling thus corroding, wouldn't you replace them with suitable bolts rather than studs?
@Rainman Ray's Repairs
Wanted to know if you replaced the front pump seal on the transmission while you had the transmission off. It's something I do and visa versa. If I change a front pump seal, I change the crank seal.
Well done, good job!👍
I really enjoy Ray utube repair videos.
I don't think Ray read any Comments people message to him .
I know what happened with almost forgetting the flex plate….. You haven't sprayed anything in 3 videos🤣🤣🤣
I would have spent the money on a aftermarket exhaust.
Wot no high temp grease on those studs?
Footage of the elusive Broomsquatch!
I can tell this is not a nh rust bucket
Great video's on Avalanche
North Dakota is way below zero. Come up here if you are too hot.
Wait… didn't you empty the fluid from the trans?
Sooo, yeah, you gonna put that flex plate back in before the trans? Watching…..
If the wife unit gets the doodlyyydooos before you I'm unsub
You need a helper Ray, wife unit is busy with wifey things. I like it when you use both hands, seems safer. Do the book hours for the job allow for RUST, Broken studs, etc.etc. It's alot like WORK, How's the expansion of the shop going ? Great vids
You have a great day
Probably a stupid question but shouldn't a person put antiseize on all the bolt and pins
I call it a flywheel. I work on Mijack Gantry Cranes in a railyard. The Flywheel bolts to the flex plate. Flex Plate has a splined shaft aiming towards rear. That spline shaft runs P.T.O. 6 seperate hydraulic pumps run off P.T.O.
Doing the kind of repair work no one else would do. Time consuming and labor intensive! Sure Ray made some mistakes ,
and he shows them, but hey he needs the $$$ !
Way to stick with it
That's a GM 😊 , a nightmare
The trolls are running in packs now.
I bet that was a seal protector. That white piece that fell
Nickel anti seize……saves sooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo much aggravation, and thread wear.
🤣its a wonder you didnt hear me yelling from australia to put the flex plate on first.
What about that seal that fell out
So Ray family I need some help. A carhop dumped a rt 44 cherry limeade slush on my lap in my car. My steering wheel has cruise control and my radio buttons. Well they are completely stuck with sugar now and I don't want to just go spraying random stuff in with electronics. I mean they still light up at work they're just really sticky so how can I clean that without having my steering wheel taken apart? Or can I? Thanks in advance!
As usual it is great
Still only 9 degrees here
I hope you cleaned that surface and primed it before putting the sway bar back on, that rust will just continue to eat away if you don't do something about it.
That flexplate has one oval torque converter bolt hole, the other two are round. You can put a bolt in it first, torque it down, and the other two will be lined up.
The old school way to install the exhaust manifold studs would have been to double nut it then when tight remove the outer nut.
"Latin for gravity", LMFAO. That's awesome. I needed a good laugh. Thank you sir
Haha, yes, people that insist on driving with 4WD engaged. I hear it frequently at small round-a-bouts as they scrub / squeal their way around. Not good for the tyres, not good for the drive train.
This funny, as a mechanic you on a lift I do it on my back, just find it hard to believe your hype! Also it isn’t my first rodeo beside a Chrysler gmc Chevy is easy!
Why didn’t you just run a tap and chase those threads
Man Ray is this truck going to be like a full mini series lol, great work as always bud.
Wait.. you skipped filming the main objective of the series?? HorseHockey!!! Lol
You didn't tourch the flex plate you ray are a shade tree mechanic at best wtf are we watching
Glad you heard us all shouting , THE FLEX PLATE RAY!!!! lol
With all the cars I have owned I have replaced the exhaust flange nuts as soon as I got the car, with long brass nuts. they don't come loose, they don't rust, and they are easy to remove.
😊
A lot of people in here giving advice on how they would have done things.. I probably would have done some things differently as well… but.. you did it your way, and you were successful. That's all that counts.
💯% 👍
BTW. Our friend here is just 9k from half a mill subs. Make sure to remind people to sub and to watch. It just sounds cool. Half a mil…yep that's the ticket and he's earned it
Hi ray! When you said “i got one of the nuts on” “i have one of the nuts on” your first sentence was actually more grammatically correct than the correction.
What? No X-files?
I can see the difficulty in drilling out those bolts. I'd have given up and hit the torch and melted the bolts out and re-tapped. Of course that's me. Probably would have caused more problems and it's easy to give advice on this side of the keyboard. Way to stay with it. Excellent professional.
Crazy how much work is required to replace this seal! Can not imagine how many hours of labor this job books.
Gravitas (Classical Latin: [ˈɡrawɪt̪aːs̠]) was one of the ancient Roman virtues that denoted "seriousness". It is also translated variously as weight, dignity, and importance and connotes restraint and moral rigor. It also conveys a sense of responsibility and commitment to the task.
Why did you put the transmission in the hole before installing the flex-plate? I am always amused watching the inexperienced working.
No tool cart? I see you enjoy the old floor/lift arm cart
Great vid, glad the job is ALMOST behind you….Did the front sway bar go back in?
Love the vids you make, your work ethic is fantastic Ray.
Dude, where's your black rubber wedding ring your wife bought to save your finger?
What prep did you do to the crank at the seal surface?
Chrysler and Ford have 4 bolts and Chrysler bolt partner only goes on one way you need to turn it until you match up the holes
If I only had a LIFT, if I only had a LIFT.
That is the most annoying torque wrench I've ever heard. Loved the video series tho Ray!
Did you consider running a tap through the holes after you finally got all the studs out? Also maybe using some anti-seize on the new studs?