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Patreon is a "Tip Jar" I don't post much there, daily YT uploads are all that I can manage right now
Must have for any toolbox!
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As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. #commissionsearned.
Also, I personally use or have used the products featured in my links and only recommended them if I feel they are of good quality.
“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
Well, very interesting indeed, but seems to be very overcomplicated and expensive. A little lubrication of the belt would have solved the squeking problem as well. To achieve a continuous solution you only have to apply the spell "Stay!" to the oil, and the problem would have been fixed!
All thread and weld a nut
Threaded rod, weld a nut.
0k. I had this argument. 1/4- 20 size (bolts) and larger are "Bolts". Smaller than that are "screws". I.E. 10-32, 10-24, 8-32, 6-31, and on and on(0-80). I'll wait.
Thank You Ray for blocking out the welding. It shows you care about peoples sight not like some other channels.
The light dimmers work by turning the light on and off with the A/C waveform, if it was resistive the dimmer would melt then catch on fire from the massive amount of waste heat.
I don't miss V belts one bit! Great video! Thanks for posting so much, I watch daily!
Start a side business: Ray's Custom Bolt Manufacturing, we make any length of bolt from other bolts for all your automotive bolt needs!
A new revenue stream for you: leave out some "non-essential" parts like this water pump bracket, tighten up the screws to triple-click to compensate and make sure the belt squeal only starts a fortnight later, and sell the gained parts on eBay!
You should have ground a taper on both ends of the bolt you would get deeper penetration on your weld. Just a suggestion
Guessing the bolt was coated.
This is the first YT video where I've seen a technician transformed into a mechanic so easily. Nice fix for the bolt even if you are catching heat for not cutting a V in it.
You usually do pretty good work, but if I was the customer and saw you jank that bolt together while I'm paying full shop rate, I wouldn't be too happy. Go to Fastenal or a real hardware store and spend the 5 bucks. Didn't even weld it good.
probably could have found parts for cj jeeps on many of the 4×4 lift online stores
Ray,do you not have a salvage yard in your area where you could maybe find parts for older vehicles?
threaded rod would have also worked
The long bolt was a fail just a plan B it worked in the end.
That engine looks like plastic.
There's a reason that the power steering pump pulley has round holes in the face of it… to run your socket through to pull the bolts out (or put them in).
It was the early 80s that had the flipping controversy not 90s for jeep. That is why keep quietly discontinued the CJ5 after 83 because they were introducing the XJ and didn't want any distractions. The 90s were about the ford explorer.
As a former NASA engineer I appreciated the Astronaut helmet image while you were welding. lol
Imagine being the owner of this Jeep paying for parts and labor to fix the slipping belt issue but not spending a few more dollars on a new belt.
Get a threaded rod next time and use a nut.
No threaded rod?
Next time use all thread and result would have been the same
You are confusing the CJ-5 with it's publicized handling with the YJ. The YJ is lower and had a wider track hence being more stable. If fact that publicity is the reason that Jeep is a YJ and not called CJ-10.
You could have just welded the bracket on
Hardware. seller deserves negative feedback .
Man, that squealing sound was like someone was running their nails down a chalkboard. Please don’t do it again.
OK now we need the brake cleaner effects 😂😂😂
Having owned two first gen RX-7's, an '81 and an '83, I can confirm they do indeed run on black magic. And voodoo. They have carbs, so there's always voodoo involved with those.
Oh Ray the bolt after you had the 1 tack on it you should have ground a grove at the other side, 2 reasons you get rid of the cadmium and now weld steel for a stronger hold then grind off the tack weld and reweld that side that would make it strong. Well time will tell just how long it lasts depends on the vibration. My gestamation is about 3-4 weeks. Better luck next time reeeeeeee LOL
I'm got that same Maglite series in my Tundra..All 3 sizes..LOL
The fuel sender in the tank is simply a variable resistor while the gauge reads the resistance, an ohm meter. On the bolts: That looks like a Saginaw pump so it would likely be metric. The engine is the old AMC I-6, a very reliable engine and probably uses English measure (what everyone calls american) bolts. That's the way it is on most of the Chrysler products that I work on.
I know you won't answer my question. But why doesn't your shop have bolts and nuts, and fasteners?.
I have never worked in a shop that didn't. It must be a real pain in the ass.
A mechanic without thread gauges and tap and die set to figure out bolt and thread? Come on Ray you're better than that. 😉
Hey the Jeep tipping problem was in the 80s not the 90s I’ve owned a lot of them. It started with the Suzuki Samurai in the 80s. It was built narrower than the CJ or the YJ which made them very tippy. The Jeeps were only tippy if you were driving into a tight corner way to fast, but vans were just as bad if not worse.
I own this exact jeep. I could have told ya lol. Bolts are famous for breaking off in block, you tried hard on this one to help that happen. I suggest at least use anti seize when bolting to the block. On my 88yj when I accelerated it shifted left also, it was the brakes.
Beard looks good Ray 😄👍
That's why people bought 2 million+ XJs.
Roof and a full cabin, big +1. And AC.
what about the motor mount need to see that fixed too BAYTOWN TEXAS
I've usually got your back, but I'm not so sure here lol! You should have bought a piece of all thread and just cut it to length, and used a nut on the outside end.
Granted, I haven't watched the whole video yet, to see if you're trolling, but I think you had a better option than welding two bolts together.
Is that rack and peanut steering?
Super easy way would be to buy a long piece of all thread and just cut the length you need. Then save the leftover length for future jobs.
What happened to to motor mount replacement ?
Shaft lengthening procedure complete 🙂
Cross-thread is Canadian Loctite!
Too bad. Looks like a Chrysler ignition key in this thing. Maybe they kept some of the AMC parts in it. My AMC's had keys that looked like the GM Keys. Like 80's and older. Not sure when they changed the design for GM, my last GM was a 1981.
🤣it’s a automatic
Home Depot is not recommended for fasteners unless you're building a deck
Is that PS belt even the correct size? That pump is leaking over quite a bit.
Bruh check me out… My grandma’s ashes could weld better than you!!
The alternative to bolts threaded rod. Which is what I would have used instead of welding a bolt turning it into a stud and using a bolt.
When the shops don’t send the tech they call me and I go lost into the store hoping I can find that they need.
reeeee I couldn't watch you weld and criticize your technique. Keep up the ingenuity Ray. Always enjoy the commentary watching your videos.
A suggestion for you Ray, buy yourself a set of imperial/metric thread pitch gauges. You have verniers to measure the thread diameter and the pitch gaufes will allow you to determine exactly which thread.
Ray, you were supposed to order the high boltage brackets. It is your fault.
UNSAFE? NO, that was the 1986 & earlier CJ5 2 door that did all
that flipping. Your driving a YJ, 1987 & after. This is the first Jeep
built under Chrysler control. The flippers were all AMC control.
Chrysler engineers fixed the flipping problem.
!
Ray, Second carb vehicle in a couple weeks. You are becoming an expert in older cars. I have a new challenge coming your way in a couple weeks. A bit newer than the Rampage and this Jeep. 1992 Toyota Sera. Can't wait for you to see it.
I gotta be honest Ray, I love your videos, and I've learned a lot of things watching your stuff. I think when it comes to dissenting opinions I've always been on your side of things. However, the welded bolt thing would personally piss me off if I found out my mechanic did that. I do understand that you did the best you could with what you had and the time you had to do it. But just understand that doing things that way might rub some people the wrong way, because if that bolt snaps and they have to come back, they will not be happy.
I always want to answer when it says spam call. I don't, and if I ever did I'd try to make them hang up. I miss carburetor cars.
Cops used to love to carry that mag light. Not because
it was a great light, it was, but because it was good N
heavy and made a great head buster.
!
How about the drive side motor mount????
the owner of that jeep has to have a mustache
Next time weld the nut. In fact, given Murphys law, next time buy a length of bolt stock, weld the nut, instant custom bolt. Much more forgiving than welding two bolts. Yes, i am aware hind sight is 20/20.
What about the bolt strength? I’ve replaced an alternator bolt that subsequently fractured due to the wrong bolt strength.
Ray, I tuned into your channel just a few months ago when you "only" had 267K subscribers. I noticed that you are now up to 367K subscribers. You've gained 100,000 new subscribers in the short time I've been watching your videos. I haven't missed one since and still need to catch up on your older ones. Congratulations!
What type of schooling does someone have to go through to do what you do?
As a long time jeep connoisseur, my first thought (which was out loud and made my wife laugh) when he said the fuel gauge doesn't work was "that's normal next problem"
Ray, go to Fastenal, its less than 4 mile from your shop. Most important is they will have the proper grade of bolts compared to the junk grade you got from big box.
Threaded rod and matching nuts ftw Ray, you can make bolts of any length with that, 4 sizes common and you're golden.
You mentioned not working on BMW's. Why?
They make a dial you hook to the tank wires and rotate it to see if the gauge works.
fun fact of the day dimmer switches actually work by chopping up the mains so the light is on less. the part that you interface with is a potentiometer, but it controls the on voltage of a triac that chops up the waveform. this allows the control of multiple (unmatched) lights with on single switch without hundreds to thousands of watts being dissipated by the switch.
sorry if that makes no sense, i'm a bit tired.
Just like more cowbell. We always need more pry bar.
At least we know which store you went to by the orange buckets.
If you don't know how to fab your not a mechanic good job ray.
Zuki Samurai's are better…and you don't have to worry about squeaky power steering pumps with them.
It's got all that off-road stuff and probably will never go off road. Also, some of the worst on-road drivers are Jeep drivers.
Someone does not like Rotary Motors….. Yes its a jeep thing still would rather have a XJ… Great videos as always…
If you would have bought a piece of all-thread and a nut you would be way ahead of the game
Ring….ring ….ring… Mickey Mouse called and he wants his bolt back…oh…and Goofy too.
The cheap and easy way to ensure straightnicity between two bolts one wishes to weld…is to set the vice jaws slightly smaller than the diameter of the bolts, and rest the bolt bits in the gap. 'Course…this requires the welder to have access to a straight vice.
Great video as usual Ray. Regarding the rear axle bushings; try to get polyurethane. I rebulit the front of my 1967 Chevelle using only those and aftermarket rear control arms also equipped with them. The car handles as if on rails, and I haven't even installed the rear sway bar yet. They will also last 5 times longer than rubber.
And one more thought…If that breaks and ends up thru the radiator or even worse, hits another car and causes a wreck…You are fully responsible for all damages…..Use the proper parts…you are getting paid to do that….so don’t take the cheap route….
My first vehicle was an 87' Wrangler. Best of them all. The straight 6 was awesome.
wouldnt it have been better to measure the depth of the threaded bolt hole first ,then go to a hardwear store,just adding my 2 cents worth
Okay, I get what you're doing. You're trolling for "REE REEEE! you blinded me when you forget to hide the arc flash. Reeeee!"
🤣👍😜✌️
Shouldn't bolts be at least grade 8 hardened?
A friend of mine had one of those Jeeps many years ago. Then he took a corner too fast and rolled it several times. What little desire I had to own one evaporated. And he was fine.
Turkey’s calling
Being a Subaru owner, I'm not allowed to comment about Jeeps… 😂😂
As others have already said. Have your shop owner buy a solid assortment of spare hardware. I work on heavy machinery (Brunswick A2 Pinsetters) and I have spares upon spares of hardware. Gets to the point whenever I do a rebuild of an assembly all new hardware goes in. Shiny is always good. 😉
Haven't seen that in long time where you can look in engine compartment and see the ground.