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Hello everybody! Good day to you! Welcome back! I've got a Nissan outside. We're gonna do a timing belt on it later, but I can't right now because black women's fan is in the service drive. That's fine though. We can get this thing out of the way.
Starting is the engine particular. Nissan Pathfinder It was here, uh, just a couple weeks ago. it was a long time had not been solved, a running issue and uh, what we found was somebody had uh connected the left side O2 sensor to the right side connector and the right side O2 sensor to the left side connector. So the engine was off hippie floppity and its fuel trims were Max positive on one side and Max negative on the other side and the thing ran terribly and uh through.
uh, much troubleshooting I Was able to figure out the situation and it was a no parts repair which was cool. powering down and it runs properly again. We're going to replace the timing belt because I Do believe it is long overdue. Let us restarting this engine that belts wheel I need to tighten those up too.
What do we got here now? 272 972 miles on the odometer? Okay, let's go ahead and get this thing back into the corner of death and we'll get started. Parts are already on the way they've been ordered. Uh, they probably won't be here until late this afternoon, so this might be a first thing tomorrow project, but we're gonna get started right now. Tiring down, let's see what we have here.
Memory serves. it's a 3.3 liter. Nissan Yes it is Okey-doke So what we're gonna need to do here is probably pull the fan, shroud the fan, all three of the belts. the intake Plumbing Uh I Probably won't have to remove the radiator, but I might just give myself more space in there I Haven't decided yet, but we need to get access to these timing covers right here and another one new where to go.
It's down there somewhere. Yeah, right behind all this stuff right here. So we're gonna pull everything out of the way. get access to the front of the engine, pull the timing covers off, and then we're going to change the belt and the water pump.
So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video. Yeah, let's see. where do I want to begin? Maybe from the beginning? where's my pocket screwdriver? I Think I'll start with the intake Plumbing That's usually the best place to begin. We'll just connect the mass airflow throttle cable.
We don't need that for right now there. I Think that's the throttle cable? Yeah, Yes. Pull that off and set it aside. Foreign.
Got a couple clamps. Here 's a couple more clamps right here. Come on, Thank you. Hmm, you know I'm just going to take the uh air filter lid off instead of trying to disconnect that hose it was given.
Uh, give me some grief there. There we go now. Unfortunately for me, there's no drain valve on this radiator. so I'm going to have to drain the cooling system by disconnecting the hoses and just letting it run out.
I'm afraid I do not have a coolant recovery machine yet. nor do I have a vacuum pump to uh to just suction out some of the coolant because I broke my vacuum Reservoir No worries I'll get a new one, but it's kind of low on the priorities. Oh, what a shame too. this is good coolant come out I need to do this without making a huge ginormous mess which I have a habit of doing on occasion there. This upper hose is destined to be in the way at some point, so let's just pull this one off the other side as well here. and I'm wondering if I need to discharge the AC system. This line is kind of in the way we're kind of not, but the neighbor guy did mention something about does not include AC system recovery and recharge. Okay, so next up I want to pull this fan shroud out but I cannot because there's a fan in the way.
so what we're going to do is reach down in there and disconnect the fan from the pulley. It's got four 10 millimeter bolts and then we'll pull the two bolts off of the fan shroud here and here and then the Shroud and the fan will come out as one one unit. kind of. Well, it's It's not that they're one unit, they're going to come out at the same time.
That's what. I that's what I should have said. Okay, so what I'm going to do is I'm going to break at least three of these loose and remove them all the way. and I'm going to leave the fourth one there.
that way it holds the fan in position so it's not flopping around while I'm trying to manipulate the uh, the other three fasteners that way. I don't have to mess with four Fasteners it's just one fastener. As long as I don't drop anybody, this is hard to do All right. There's one oh that came out with the stud.
See that? I Did not expect that to happen. Maybe from this side, we'll try it from over here. Yep and you can't see. but I got the third one loose Also, maybe you can see kind of.
And so I'm wandering around the shop and I'm looking for my magnet on a stick because I'm really scared to drop these nuts. It doesn't sound right and I wanted to unthread it and then just reach in with the magnet and pull the nut out with the magnet on a stick. but I can't seem to find it actually. I've got a couple of them and I don't know where they are.
The only thing I have left is the magnet on a screwdriver. They're around here somewhere, but I bet they're just stuck to something. Okay, that's three of those. Oh, hit you guys with a well I hit you sorry.
All right, Foreign. See, we'll get the magnet in there if I can't even reach what. This is why I want my magnet on a stick. It's important here.
Watch this so we'll keep the magnet nearby. so when the nut comes off, we don't lose it. Oh yeah. all right.
So I need to get access to that uh, that fourth nut down there. but I can't reach it. So I'm just gonna bump the key real quick. It's going to turn the engine ever so slightly and that it's going to rotate that pulley around so I'll be able to reach it. Foreign. See that just barely bump the key. That's all I had to do. Oh, don't ever do that with somebody's hands.
uh, in the engine compartment because should the thing start, you will become degloved. And I'm not talking about latex gloves. That's how you lose pinkies. Yeah, see how I loosen this some and then the pulley is going to move foreign and then it recontacts the nut and then I can't get it to turn? That's what's going on here.
No worries. Patience I almost have it. The concrete guys are cutting. Granite Again, sorry for the loud buzzing.
You hear it. Yeah, they'll do that for like hours on end it just when you're grinding away. Not that uh, I'm complaining because I also make loud noises all day and all night sometimes too. That came out wrong.
So anyway, the fan is unbolted. Now let's just disconnect the Shroud. Two more bolts for the Shroud I don't think it's bolted on on the bottom I think it's just, uh, like slotted, not gravity. Come here.
Foreign that out in just a moment, living on the edge? Yeah. I think it's impressed. Loud noises, All right. What I'm gonna do is shut that compressor off and I'm gonna reach down here and wiggle the fan off the studs so that's clear the fan is now.
Just kind of chilling. I'm going to pull the Shroud up and out bringing the fan with it except we're stuck on I don't even know we're stuck. Come out. and we're also going to do this without breaking the radiator because that would be bad.
Okay, here's our fan. That clutch is a little weak. not terrible, but a little weak. Pay for 300K or almost 300 000? Uh, I'd say it's doing just fine.
All right. So what's next is we've got to pull these accessory. Drive Belts off flashlight. Looks like we've got one, two two serpentine belts and a V belt.
Come here. Light rock. I Cannot reach. Got it? We also need to remove this coolant hose right here.
tensioners. What else am I forgetting? I think that's about it? Then we can get to that timing cover. So yeah, let's pull the belts, pull the brackets, pull the pulleys, pull the accessories, and get this thing apart. Okay, so we start from the outermost belt.
which is this: AC Looks like it's just the AC belt. We'll take the stud loose. We don't need to take it off, just loose so that pulley can move because the stud attaches to the bracket on the back side. Now this bolt right here that runs down and threads into the block that this bolt attaches to.
and that is the adjuster. So what we're going to do is get the right side of socket, which is a 14 mil, not a 12. we're also not going to take this thing all the way out. I'm just going to take it loose enough to remove the belt.
Come here. it's stuck up there. Hmm. we've got some cracking action going on here. See that? Okay, next belt. same procedure. Try the wrong size tool first. All right.
we're losing that one. Loosen the stud and then right up here is the adjuster. Bolt We'll loosen that thing next, which is a 12 millimeter. Again, procedure dictates to try the wrong size tool first.
Okay, that's two belts and we'll take the pulley with us this time. Okay, two down, one to go and that last one looks like it's just for, uh, power steering. You see the pulley down here at the bottom. Okay, so I don't see any adjuster bolts.
so I think the I think the one that is down here I was feeling around I think the one down here is the bolt that holds that thing in position that's a 12 mil. that one right? First try. let's break this guy loose and see if this is the the one we need. Feels like it now.
I do see like a threaded Rod right here behind the pulley and it's pointed that way. So I'm assuming that the adjuster is uh, over there on that side of the pump. but I can't see it. uh, trying to feed it? Yeah, right here is the power steering line and then the pump is right underneath of this AC compressor and I can feel that bolt like right? like right here.
but I cannot see it. Foreign. There is zero working space, especially with this steering shaft here. I actually might have to remove this to a to reach what I'm trying to reach I don't know I haven't decided yet.
All right Yeah well. I've got a I got a socket and an extension on it. Um oh I know I know I know we'll do extended compound wobblies. Check this out.
This is totally gonna work If I can't reach it I'll just well I won't I won't try. it's not gonna work here. Let's back up. What do you guys think? It's just a waste of time and the survey says negative.
It's perfect. That's totally working all right. A little more come off a little more. hit you with a hat all right.
Now that adjuster Bolt's becoming kind of wobbly and the socket's not wanting to stay on it. There we go. Oh, it's almost there. Hey man, this should be fun to put back on later.
There we go. Got it? Okay, Power steering belt removed. We'll make sure to, uh, extract the extended compound wobbly bit. Okay with the belts off now.
I think I could pull this? Uh, this first bracket off of here has a series of 12 mils. That one was loose. uh I missed one somewhere. Oh I See it back? Yeah.
Hiding there we go. So one thing I'm gonna do on this since there is a lot of Hardware is I'm gonna put the hardware back where I found it and then I'll set this thing aside I should have taken this AC bracket off. they left it on that other bracket. It's going to be fun to reassemble later.
I'll just put that on there right now there. Okay, next up: I Think we need to get this hose off and finish draining all the coolant. Remove the bracket for that and I'll just disconnect it right here at that thermostat housing. 10 millimeters. Is it going to come off nicely or not? it should. I think it's been removed at one point. There's a some blue silicone in there. Yeah, it's gonna come off just we don't want to do it violently.
I don't want to be rubbed cooling everywhere. There we go. We'll leave that like that and let it hang out and drain for a while nice and slowly and not on my floor. Okay, that's pretty good.
Try to drain that hose, we'll just stick that down there and then it can drain all the uh, coolant that's in the radiator. There we go. All right. We have another bracket for another belt looks like one two and that Bolt's already been removed.
So I think it's just two more bolts. Yep. So here's a good view of, uh, the tensioning mechanism. That little stud right there will slide this thing that'll slide up and down that little track based on how much you tighten and or loosen the adjuster bolt and then once you've got it in position, you lock down that center bolt there and that's what locks in the tensioner pulley all right now as it appears to me.
I have access to most of this timing cover with the exception of the top side right here. and it does appear that I need to remove this AC line in order to get to these at least top bolts and some of this other stuff right here. So I can, uh take the top covers off? So I'm going to fetch the machine, discharge the system, and then disconnect this line over here at the compressor. I might not yet have a coolant machine, but I got an AC machine that's for sure.
This was my first machine. Now the question is going to be with this is: do I replace the valves or not? You see I'm a firm believer that every time you service an AC system, the valve should be changed. However, by definition Am I servicing the AC system or Am I Not so what do I do? Do I put new valves in it or do I not. Oh, come on, foreign, begin recovering now.
Yeah, Yeah, yeah, did that goes around? Okay, so while we're recovering I think I need to uh get some of these connectors disconnected so I can move this wiring harness out of the way. This should be fun. These have been fry drivered before. Um I don't want to break it.
miniature flashlight gravity. Oh, he's come out of there. Why? I know why it's dirty? Well this, uh, this may not help, but it couldn't hurt. Sometimes dirt can get impacted inside of the connector clips and then they cannot be pressed and then you cannot release them.
not all the time, but sometimes that was a finger stabbing moment. I'm out got it. I'd Be surprised at what can be achieved with a pocket screwdriver. I can almost replace the entire lower intake manifold assembly on a Buick Series 2 or Series 3 with just a 10 millimeter and a pocket screwdriver.
Come disconnected now. Thank you. One more. that one's pretty broken.
See that? Okay, all right, we'll lay the harness aside. There's a couple more connectors in here. I'm just kind of going down the row. All right now. the harness is very, very, very much out of the way. Good. Alrighty, the AC recovery is nearly nearly complete. Words: So let's get this line disconnected from the compressor.
Reach in and fetch the nut. All right. We're just going to go ahead and wiggle this line while simultaneously putting some up pressure on it and that should break it free from the compressor and it'll be out of the way. Come on.
Foreign, there's that vacuum. Did you hear the change of state in the compressor or the vacuum pump? Go ahead and shut this down. Pausing, clearing. We'll let that do its thing All right? So we've got pretty much everything out of the way that we need to pull these covers up with the exception of this coolant bypass tube thing.
But that's just two more brackets and number two. I Think it's just two more? Yes, no, oh, that's not cool. That's uh, like PCV or something. Look over here that goes into the cylinder head.
uh. valve cover. just dots and tricked me I Thought that was coolant but that's better. That means I don't spill anything.
Yay! Yeah! I'll just disconnect this on this side as well and just pull this thing out of the way completely. There we go. Okay, so I'll take this magnet tray and stick that up there because it's now time to pull the rest of these Fasteners out. So let us remove the upper timing cover fasteners.
These are a special Factor they cannot easily be replaced. They're designed where you cannot over torque the cover and then break the cover. But if you lose one and then replace it with something else, you might inadvertently break the plastic cover. Oh, give me that back and I think just one more in the center.
here. Is that all of them Negative. There's one down here. Sneaky little guy.
Is that all of them? Yes. Okay, we're getting somewhere now. However, I may be a little premature in my assumptions because we have not yet removed that crankshaft or crankshaft pulley. Um, yeah, it's not gonna fit.
Uh yeah. I might be pulling the radiator out if that gun doesn't fit. I know my pneumatics doesn't fit. Hey, maybe I'll get lucky.
Hang on, let me try this. The 90 degree impact. Hang on here. Let me get out of here All right.
Didn't see that coming. It's okay. Crank bolt came out. it was really easy.
Now do I need to pull this off or does it just slide off? I Don't know. Oh yeah, it doesn't move I think I need a puller. just watch. the ease of the uh bolt removal will be punishable by this thing not coming off.
I'm not frying, this is not frying the daylight out of it. I'm just kind of putting some pressure on it and see if it'll move which it is not. Yeah I think I need a puller. Okay, no that's not gonna work because there's nothing for a puller to pull on. See this? Um yeah, it's supposed to slide off. so I need to I guess pry bar All right. Well it appears that the puller is, uh, not gonna work because that's not how this works. So what I'm going to do is just give this some love taps, try to break it Loose a little bit just by shock therapy without hitting the radiator I know it comes off this way, but okay I can't hit it this way.
So I'm hitting it that way. Foreign and perhaps a little bit of luck or a lot. a lot. and Fry bar let me try that.
it should slide right off. It really shouldn't supposed to slide off and it needs to without breaking. Yeah, the rubber is flexing I know what I'll do I'll pry on it some and give it some Taps that way, it's got pressure trying to pull it away and then perhaps the shocks of tapping on it will help. Break It Loose it's not working.
No, that's not working. Okay, you know I'm just going to use a puller anyway. a big one. So I'll put the bolt back in so the puller can press against it and I'll see if I have one big enough to just grab the uh outside edge or the lip of the pulley.
So uh I don't know if this is gonna work. This is not a crankshaft pulley puller, but it is a puller. Therefore, it should pull or I'm gonna break the uh the pulley and that would be bad I don't want to break the pulley I want to remove it Okay, can't get that on there I don't know I don't know if this is gonna work. Oh, it made a poppy noise so it's either breaking or it's coming off I can't tell and I I think it's gonna come off? Keep an eye on this area.
right over here and we should see it start to move away from the cover. Yeah, that's pretty stubborn. that's things on there. You're Gonna Go Some more turns than the first couple noises took.
Yeah, so far so good. I Can't tell if it's moving or not. you're looking right here. Is it moving? Yeah.
I Think it is. It's moving all right. We're getting somewhere. lose.
Probably shouldn't have said that. It's like I'll show you buddy that's still tight too on the crankshaft. this is supposed to just slide in with a wood drip key. super tight I wonder if some pool put silicone on it? Okay I just felt it bottom out.
That means I'm out of threads on that uh on the bolt that I put in. That was a hard stop. So let's get this puller out of here. Back the bolt off and I'll I'll reset it up again.
actually. I shouldn't said reset it up I should have just said set it up Words: It's closer to the radiator now so I must, uh, use extra caution. Oh yeah, it's coming good. Looks like that.
uh, crankshaft seal has got a leak too. I see a lot of oil around there. All right, we're bottomed out again. I'm trying to loosen the bolt for the crankshaft without actually, uh, removing the puller.
That's about all she's got. foreign and this thing is on here. Okay, you need to reset one more time. I'm gonna have to pull that crankshaft bolt out and just use the puller against the snout of the crank if this is a gonna reach I don't know if it's going to reach like that and it's not I don't have enough bolts. Okay, maybe it's off enough where I can I can wiggle it. Uh, negative. Okay, so I found the extra space. Check it out! I'll take that washer off.
That gives me another 3 8 of an inch. Actually, that gives me I Think unlimited space because I do believe that the head of that uh bolt is larger. Yes, it is. The head of that bolt is larger I'm sorry.
smaller than the diameter of the crankshafts. Now it's smaller. not larger. Now what that means is that as I pull this, uh, crankshaft pulley off the rest of the way, it will pass over top of that Bolt and the bolt will stay in the crank and the pulley will go away.
Oh, not lined up too low, off-center Still, hang on. This is why I don't like pullers. They're fickled little figs, finicky creatures. Okay, moving on.
Uh, got it all right. Moving on. A few more bolts for this lower cover and then our whole Timing System will be exposed. That one was loose.
Oh, a long one. I'll have to remember that another not as long one. Okay, now we're getting interesting. That's a shorty foreign that come vertically through the oil pan.
Sometimes that's a little bit common. Nope, just another horizontal one right here. That water pump's been leaking too. I Think it's wet inside of there.
All right guys. Well, I Do not have my timing set here just yet. now. We can see that there's some marks on these timing gears.
There's one Mark right here and on the other gear. and bear with me there's another Mark right here now that is supposed to line up with that little Dot and this Mark lines up with that little Dot Once those are lined up, we can check the crankshaft marks. However, there are some belts like this one right here. They have a reference Mark where they're supposed to line up with those dots I'm going to wait until I have that belt kit here before I disassemble the rest of this because I want to get it all in time where it's ready to remove and then reinstall.
but I also want to make sure that the other belt matches up with this belt. so I'm just gonna have to save that for the next episode. Reason for that is like I just said I don't have a part yet and number two, it's 4 30 and I'm going home. So uh, that being said, as always, like thank you for watching this disassembly video.
hope you like this video. please don't read on me for cutting it off halfway through. Uh, had I done this in one solid Swift motion, it would have been like a two hour video and and nobody's got time for that. So we're gonna do two, uh, less than one hour videos.
So again, and as always, thank you guys for watching. and most importantly, don't forget to have yourself a great day! See you guys later!.
I did the same timing job on one of those. It's possible to remove the timing cover without disconnecting the AC line. The harmonic balancer was also stuck and was probably the biggest challenge in this whole job, my puller broke a small piece of the pulley while extracting it. New harmonic balancer pulley was quoted for a few hundred dollars by Nissan stealership, so the old one went back on (but it still worked good, no issues). I hated working on that Nissan with a passion, lol… stupid design all over and many parts were dealer only, at incredible markup.
P.S. Water pump, timing tensioners and thermostat should also be swapped for new ones while in there. Aisin (OEM) makes the whole timing kit with everything included, minus the thermostat.
So good to see you on your own. From our FL Family to yours, ty for showing us.
You're getting very good at that corner of death thing
Wow that timing belt is one hell of a mission ! I still prefer a good old chain, if you look after your engine then your chain should last the life of the engine.
thank god you record these, i could never put that thing back together properly
Enjoy watching your work Ray. Thank you, as always, for sharing, and wishing us to have a nice day.
Ahh nissan plugs … I do know them well
Aisin makes very nice timing belt kits for Japanese imports. Just use an OE thermostat and crankshaft seal to provide a complete service for the customer. I'm sure Rayman knew this all along. Great posting.
Man that's a job that would be a hell of a job just replace water pump
Some crank pulleys are a cow to remove sometimes Ray, But your patience shines again once more.
What is the brand name of that puller? Like it!
A gazillion comments Re: pulling the harmonic balancer….Just wondering if anyone actually reads the comments??… 🙂🙃🙁
Ray, when you were removing the crank pulley, there is a pointed bracket right at the top of the picture that showed the movement clearly along the ribs of the pulley. Very cool!
You got to start saying please come off
Give us MORE!! 😬
That crank pulley situation, Would be nice to have a piece of plywood to protect the radiator from inadvertent damage.
Great Video as always Ray, Thanks for making it.
For your A/C machine I have a weird question. With all those do it yourself a/c topup and additive products how does your a/c machine handle them all?
Did this on a 97 lexus, pita fwd, never again. Nissan thought it was a great idea to put starter on their 5.6 under the intake, same with toyota on the 5.7 and i think 4.7 as well…
Put the bolt back in part way and use steering wheel puller
Enough wobbly bits and you can use a power tool anywhere!
Shouldn't you have set your cams in the right spot BEFORE you removrd the crank pulley/balancer?
Next time you have to work so close to a rad, slip a piece of 1/4 inch plywood or flat body metal against the rad and the tool. That will protect the rad a bit from tool slippage…
Ever hear of PB Blaster?
What a cluster!…I'll stick to my Mopar V8's!
Two threaded holes in crank pulley are for a puller to attach to!
Did he say black womens van?
They couldn't figure out how to do that with one serpentine belt like everyone else?
No "REEEZ" from me. Thank you, very educational!
I think the lazy "wife unit" needs a designated parking spot!
If those two small holes in the pulley on either side of the crank shaft are threaded, you can use a small puller that way. I'm pretty sure that's how Oni-chan (Oni-San, or Ni-san for short meaning big brother) designed it.
I think if you put on the AC mushing and you are puling out the refrigerant and replacing the refrigerant then that would be serving the AC in that Automobile. So to your answer is yes you did do a service so you should be putting in new valves. Being that the O ring on the valve is old and it may not been licking then you put the mushing on the AC unit and now it started to lick and you didn't notice it the Costner comes back saying you broke the AC so its just best to put in new valves
If it’s got over 100,000. miles,which it does X 2. And it has a plastic aluminum junk shit radiator, it needs a new radiator anyway.
air hammer helps removing the crank pulley. done plenty of timing belts on these engines. since retiring i found that i miss the challenge this line of work offers. you have to do more than removing nuts and bolts, you need to use your head and sometimes think fast to be successful in this trade
Just thank you… please continue being you… I own a shop in East Texas and am on this adventure with you.. been in business a year now and am learning from you… please feel free to message me so we can share data…
I really like this channel. I am really learning things about how mehanics work. Many moons ago I was a light wheeled mehanic in the Army
The Army vehicles aren't the best. We had issues with the first generation up armored humvees M1142'S. We experienced mamy water pump and power steering issues. Thanks for doing this channel!
Good point about starting and fingers in engine compartment. Now you got often playful "units" in the shop; Might be time to think how to stay safe when you are working and cannot see if a playful child turns the key. Or simply disconnect the battery 🙂
I like your videos. I wish our weather was as nice as yours though.
Couldn't you use an impact gun while prying on the pulley?
place some card board or thin plywood against the radiator to protect it from damage
I consider draining and refilling a system as a service of that system; oil, coolant, and a/c. You drained it might as well change the valves, saves having to do it again in a week
So for your new phone shop space have you thought about a Hunter 4 Post lift front end alignment rack like the L451. He could do front end alignments and still go underneath the vehicle it'll lift your Dooley without a problem.
That was funny! Sounds easy replacing a Buick manifold with a 10mm and a little magnet screwdriver! Hmmm, maybe I should buy a Buick……for ease of repair?? 😉🤣🤣🤣🤣
Why would a car manufacturer not put a drain plug on a radiator? Sutpid!!!!!!!!!!!!
You can change your motto to “every time you access the ac system you replace the valves” 🤷🏻♂️
Now I know why I like older cars, all that to get to a timing belt. I’m glad you know what you’re doing 👍
Right size socket..on end of shaft..socket up side down..
My name is Brickant, Leu Brickant, and I'm here to help you take off rusty parts. My friend, Mr Barr will be along with Mr Hammer to help later. Of course, there is a Mr Puller who can help with really stuck on parts.
My grandfather has an 01 xterra with the same motor. Every time I fix one coolant leak another starts somewhere else. Can’t complain since it has over 300k on it with original hoses. But now it has developed a leak in the valley and due to the design of the intake manifold I can’t find it. I’ve tried getting a bore scope in there and still haven’t been able to locate it. I was thinking it might just be the manifold gasket but I can 100% say its not that. Have you come across an issue like this. The only thing I can think of is possibly the pipe for the heater core cracked since I just did the core and the hoses and might have disturbed something or the gasket at the back of the t-stat housing. Just wondering because I’m sure you know just how fun those manifolds are to remove.
compared to the one and only (golf mk3) timing belt I've ever done this seems needlessly complicated. What's the most time consuming timing belt you have ever done?
When two events happed at the same time they are coincidence or synchronicity dependent upon you perspective. When two events are planned to happen at the same time there is a high level of simultaneity. Removing the fan and shroud at the same time has a high level of simultaneity.
I have noticed over the Years some Car cam belt changes Seem to getting more complicated, I know this Nissan is Not straight from the Factory. But it’s ridiculous how much you have to move, wouldn’t Timing chains been better in this engine’s design. Cam belts in the 80s 90s. Used to be a 2hrs work max.,Do you think?. Ray. Steve 👨🏻🦳♿️🇬🇧🔧❤️👍
When doing a Stupidroo 2.5 timing belt it is best to replace all camshaft seals and the water pump while you have it all open. I even replace the crankshaft seal.
You'll drop those nuts one day, Ray, but I reckon you've got a good 20-25 years before they fall. Thanks for all the videos!
Enough reason for me to avoid timing belts, especially V6 engine !!
Backed into the corner of Death….HA… that was a great one.
Did I see a couple threaded holes in that crankshaft pulley or maybe I was seeing things.
physics, Ray. 2 pry bars
Doing the water pump too? On Honda/Acura, we usually do the water pump when doing the timing belt due to the labor to get in there and ease or doing it at the same time as the timing belt.
hello rainman ray have you thought about a vanity place for ur wifes van that says wife unit
Reminds me of the dentist, “you might feel some pressure”. Right, pain, appreciate the heads up, doc.
As usual another great video. Ray one of the many things that I like about our two older GM vehicles is the fan shroud is two piece, sure makes it easier to change water pump, etc. I’m sure glad that you’re having yourself a great day today with Nissan, sure hope those parts do have to come from over seas😊
cant wait for part 2
Let gravity that starts having an effect on you after about 55. To low that's what she said
Ray, I am not a technician. However, I am a customer. If you changed the A.C. valves on my vehicle and explained why you did it; I would consider it a favor. I am on a fixed income, and I would know you saved me money. I really enjoy watching your channel. GOD bless you and your family.
Ray..Your goina need to 12 cans of ur favorite brake clean stuff..tht I laugh everytime u do tht thing when it pops in..
2 screw holes in the dampner or crank police quarter 20, believe Turn a man back-and-forth and it pushes the police forward
Just………One……….More………….Piece………..NOT!
When it comes to choice….. always choose the one that lets you sleep at night….
Hadn't seen a 2000 in a while
I'm glad I'm not a professional auto mechanic. Trying to get to some of the buried bolts etc. can be very frustrating.
Good job loosening the jack screw of the power steering pump, with lots of wobble extensions! But I never hesitate to drill access holes in wheel wells either.
Wouldn't it have been faster to remove the Radiator? the coolant hoses are off.
I know the 'Rainman", if you remove the AC valve cover caps, they get a New Valve 🙂
Yes you're servicing the A/C as needed for access.
You should replace the service valves if they fail a leak test.
Often, systems with dye give plenty of evidence.
The experience of having some valves fail does not condemn them all.
Some shops approach the topic with it being a known failure for that model and year being known for it.
To prevent refrigerant loss, and cost to the business, or the customer can decide when advised.
To always replace them on every vehicle is overkill, you don't need that to be your mantra.
It makes you get a reputation, that's bad, even when it seems right to you.
Someone can prove it to you and say it is excessive. Just fix what's broken now, and suggest the preventative.
At the end of the day it's your shop and your call. But Advise them. Document it. That's my advice. Consider the source.
ah the infamous vg33 knock sensors always go bad 6th spark plug sucks drinks like a v8 pulls like a 4cyl always leaking oil on the starter
That just screams water pump at the same time!
2 bolt steering wheel puller would fit in there
Dude: You could use any shop vac r vacuum to suck the coolant into a bucket. Just port the liquid input hose through the lid to the bucket’s bottom, and the vacuum-side sucking air hose barely into the same lid. That way no liquid enters the vacuum cleaner. Just keep an eye on the liquid level in the bucket.
Rainman, I caught your brief mention about belt squeal at the start and it gave me a start, haha! Why? Because my 2002 Infiniti QX-4 is the rich twin of the Pathfinder, and notorious on the blogs for squealing belts. Hey, I pay extra for aramid fiber belts and they don’t stretch, so the problem must be with the factory specs—the pulleys are too small for the belts, or the belts were spec’s too long for the pulleys & idlers. Short of epoxying a thin strip of brass or steel to each idler, what can be done?
What's going on with that Dodge that's parked next to the entrance?
Ok Ray I have my first ever complaint, you shut the Nissan down when you pulled it in at the beginning of your program and you never made you're shut down engine noise 😂😂
Anyone else see the small threaded holes to push it off the crank?
Slide a piece of cardboard in front of the puller to protect the radiator .
It's a Datsuuuun! All-in-all it's in great shape for it's age!
Ray foils his arch enemy gravity once again with his electric "RAY" gun! Stay tuned (up)!
I'm very surprised the engine wasn't turned before the bottom cover and the crank bolt was loosened to line up the cam marks and the external crank marks. A basic start before looking at belt marks. Even with a failed belt at least get the crank to tdc ( on #1 compression)
Let’s just get a torque wrench in there for assembly. Bets on he won’t use??
Mister Rainman, we have a local guy who is a bit like you. He works best when I drop it off and say "Call me when you are done"…. the Invoice is a lot more in my favor that way. some of our local idiots bad mouth him a lot, as he is a Fabricator, not a Dealer OEM parts only kind of guy. He has saved my Wallet many times over in the last 10 years.
So if crank has to be turned, I want to see how thats done……
I was having my breakfast watching you remove covers and bolts and when it got to the good bit… you left me hangin’…. now I am in withdrawal…
Always leave the audience wanting more..P.T.Barnum…
Just a suggestion Ray…………………………………… try putting one of those small powerful magnets inside a finger of your glove.
Something you should consider is something like the guy on VGG a idiot disclaimer .
On the adjustment and tensioner mechanisms: Subaru actually does something really similar on its 2.0 and 2.5 engines as well.
You have balls of steel using that puller that close to the radiator, that could have been a disaster.
Laugh if the granite guy complain about your clicks all day long 😂
Those special fasteners which secure the timing cover are shoulder bolts.