Back to Pt1 Lifting Car off of Lift | VIDEO Ruined!! Mint Ford Mustang GT 4.6 https://youtu.be/0rkpZl-MSlw
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
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Amazon List, must have for any toolbox! Astro 7824 Bearing Race and Seal Driver Master Set https://amzn.to/3qhYxva
1: Astro Tools 52SL 500x2 Lumen Wirelessly Rechargeable Folding Double-Sided LED Slim Light, & 52SLC 500x2 Lumen Folding Double-Sided LED Slim Light W/Wireless Charging Pad https://amzn.to/3Jd2h6t
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My Camera Gear:
Gopro Hero 10 https://amzn.to/3AaxELe
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”Intro Music by Karl Casey @ White Bat Audio”
Thanks to Jesse for making the intro and graphic for us to enjoy!!!
“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
Testing Testing Testing Audio testing is this thing going to work this time? I Don't know. No seriously. I'm not kidding. In the last video of this 1998 Ford Mustang 4.6 GT the audio craft out and I lost like 20 minutes of audio on my footage I Had to speed everything up do a voiceover.
I Was really upset because it was a really good video. I Mean it still worked out to be a good video, but it wasn't as good as I thought it could have been. Anyway, since we're on the subject of last video, we were uh, doing a uh, a set of ball joints on the front. here.
the front lower is we're binding up and the steering was sticking. If you want to go back and look at that video, just checking the links down in this Video subscription or the pinned comment and it'll take you back in time. So anyway, while we had all this apart, we put uh, well, we took out the front struts slash shocks, we replaced the rear shock absorber units and we are now in a position to get the fronts reinstalled. So what I'm going to do is we're going to run these up into the uh, the hole right up there and we're gonna come around and get these guys bolted back in.
Then we can get the steering Knuckles back on and we'll get the brakes and whatnot toss back on this thing. I've already taken the liberty of changing out those tie rods. they were. They were kind of sticking and I was afraid they weren't rotating as well as they could have, which would have contributed to the bindings uh, condition that the front suspension had.
Additionally, in that other video, we also found that it had a torn steering gear bushings and I've also ordered a set of those. So in this video, we're going to do some reassembly action and then we're going to prep for the next phase of the repairs. the slash mechanical Restorations on this Mustang. So stay tuned because this is going to be a better video than the last one opening.
Z Hood Well, let me rephrase. Uh, it will be a better video just as long as the audio does not Uh crap out again and if it does, then well. I Guess we'll deal with that as we have to deal with that. So there's our first strut.
The nut is on that's in position. Let's tighten that down some and then we'll get the passenger side. All righty. let's get some torque on these nuts.
These are nylon nuts. I'm reaching down, hanging onto the strut cartridge. again, tightening now, please. Good there's our nylon All right, strolling on over.
Let's take our replacement strut for the right front and get this guy installed next. All right strut coming up through the hole. There we go. Let's put our grommet on and our spacer and our washer and our nut.
Here we go. I'm gonna pull back. Let me show you, we're gonna pull on the strut. This direction is going to put a side load on the shaft and that will allow enough friction to tighten down the nut.
There we go. Beautiful. All right. Let's run this thing up in the air, climbing over the paint mess Cedar Back up to a good working height and then we can get the front Knuckles and the brakes installed. Okay, back at the driver's front dropping my nuts, get rid of that on the ball joint and we'll go ahead and bring in our steering knuckle. With that thing's set up and bolted on, there's our nut and nut it on. We're gonna get it nutted on. All right.
Let's get in here with our wobbly bit again. 24 mil. We're gonna tighten down this stud. click Okay, we need to raise this back up again and we're going to get the pole Jack under it because I need to relieve some spring pressure or get this aligned rather I need to move this control arm up some to get our bolts to, uh, fit into place.
see that we're hanging down about three inches too low. So let's go hit the button, raise this up, and then we'll get that set up. I Got a feeling this is going to assemble much quicker than the disassembly because I don't have to fight with pullers and Hammers and air chisels and all that good stuff. So let's crank this up.
I Don't like that we need more leverage against it all the way. At the end. there we go. That should.
That should suffice. it says me: Dipper cranking it. It keeps lining up. As soon as we're lined up with those bolt holes, we can stick the bolts in and again.
just like the rear shocks. I'm washing the lift arm over here to make sure I don't pick the front of the car up. Uh, off of the lift arm because then it could fall off and that would be bad. Close a little closer and I'm taking some weight off the lift arm too.
A little sketchy. It's okay. a little more half an inch right there. There it there.
it is. That's it. Just for now. that's one one and the other.
They actually go in from the other side, but that one was easiest to get in at the moment. There we go. Okay, one nut and my other nut. Where'd it go? Begin threading, please? What are you doing there? We go.
Number two coming in, right? Yeah, Oh yeah. All right impacts coming in. Let's hold the other end of the bolt and that one. I'll leave it.
Loose Until I Put that caliper bracket bolt on all right brake rotors coming in next. get that guy in position, cow for bracket this unit bolted on and then we'll get our top bolt right there. Yeah, this is going to better going together very nicely. It's impacts coming in.
look. Yep, that did not. It didn't give me the space that I needed. Oh no worries, let's take it out.
We'll put it back in there. We go 24 on the big top bolt. tight. All right, let's get our brake pads re-hung We've got some witness marks on these.
so the circular part here that indicates that that is where the piston and the caliper is touching. So that's our inboard pad and the outboard pad has the two witness Marks here for the fingers on the caliper. So that one is our outboard pad shapes and colors. Let's give that slide pin a good wipe. It's got a bunch of dirt and dried grease on it. Good. Let's get it with some purple. Lube Load that up nice and thick lag.
You know folks, we're asking uh in the comments about this car, how does it have stuff that's so worn out at 50 000 miles? And it's not so much the wear that has done it. it's the age and the lack of use that has done it. See all this lubrication? just like that brake Lube has ultimately dried up and and cause these conditions. So we need to, uh, undry it, re-lube it, and of course replace the components that were necessary.
Kind of brake issue here. That slide pin is sticking I Must confess I overlooked that earlier, didn't notice. Let's see if I can't get this out with the air impact driver. it should just come right out of there.
Then I can clean it up and re-lube it. Got it. Lack of lubrication. It does strange things.
Okay, let's get that there. we go. put that in there nice and deep back. Also a lot of this is gonna like rub off when we go to insert the PIN but if I get enough on there, we'll have sufficient lubrication quality.
You need to do this without tearing the uh little Rubber seal in there or let's take the seal out. put it back in and I might have to do that I don't know. Hmm how do I do that I can't get the shaft in, the hole's too small. What is this here? I'll try to pluck this Rubber seal off.
see if it comes out or not it should. How? How can I poke my finger? It should come out, maybe the other side I wonder if it's an insert? It might be a full length insert that runs through this thing? Yeah, no, no, we'll just wiggle it a bunch and fresh it. Press it until it. uh, it capitulates and does what? I Want that rubber on there? We go put it back.
Got it? Yay! There's our Bolt Let's get that guy in and thread it in, torque down and aligned. Got to get it all aligned properly here. Well this was supposed to go easy. Why did I say something? What? I've done a big mouth happens every time.
T50 for the win I Do not see problems. This stud is not wanting to Fred what's going on I'm not getting it aligned properly. It's not something's wrong here. it's the rotor turning is what it is I need to put down pressure on it to fight the spring clips.
put the rotor is wanting to come back this way when I do that. So I'll put a nut on it. one of the lug nuts. There we go.
Yeah, we'll tighten that lug nut down. It's going to hold the rotor in place. Then we can hold the caliper down now. I Can get that bolt in and started.
That was easy. Good click. Okay, one side, that one's good. Let's let down our pole Jack here and uh, we can check this thing for any binding action to make sure that we in fact did solve and much much much much much much better.
Look at that. No sticking at all. Sweet. All right. Moving around to the passenger side wrench and repeat right. All right, let's look this thing up in the air here. Get it down over the stud. let's get our nut on.
Virude impacts coming in. wobbly impacts of course. Okay, all right, come here. Jack stand.
that was loud, wasn't it? obnoxiously loud all the way at the end for proper Leverage Hang up and we'll get our bolts aligned. now. These bolts are going to come in from this side. they come in from the front.
We'll leave the top one out slash loose so we can get that uh bracket for the brakes. just like the driver's side. Keep cranking that up right there top bolt and it's in, but not all the way. Let's go ahead.
my uh, jet stands in the way. Miscalculation? No worries. out of the way. Okay, let's move on over here and get our nuts on.
We're on the nuts. there's one. Okay, let's get this bottom one torqued down and tight. Get on there.
Peace. Click. Nice rotors coming in I Need to bend my backing plate out some I Guess it got kicked or dropped or something here. I Baroque it kind of.
it's gonna Flex It Here we go. Rotors coming on that again. around to the side. two bolts for the caliper bracket I really did tweak that uh, backing plate a little bit I don't remember doing that I wonder what happened? Everything's a hammer even? Electric Tools Beautiful.
All righty. Same as the other side brake pads going in. there's our outboard stick you right in there inboard. Likewise, let's push our rotor flush, bolt it on so it stays flush and now we can lubricate our slide pins and caliper give that a bit of a white.
Get rid of the old nasty crud. There we go and some of the purple. Lube get the purple all over it. Okay, back her up.
We'll get our caliper, slide that over the PIN that's the fixed pin and the other pin is going to be the bolt. which uh, now that one's a little stuck in there too. Okay, so considering that the other side was very difficult to remove, I'm not going to pull this one out all the way. Well, it was difficult to put back.
so I'm gonna try to not pull it out all the way. this time. getting it past that rubber lip was a bear. so I would like to avoid that this time and we'll just pack this thing full of grease from both sides.
There we go. Much better. Yeah, now it slides again. beautiful and we are threading perfect Torque 50 coming in.
Caliper clicks achieved and that looks like one nice good free ball joint. Good to go. All right. let's raise this thing up again.
Actually, No. I'm gonna do this from the chair. We're gonna go down below and we need to take these bolts out of the steering gear and change the bushings. Uh, in that power steering rack? All right.
We're back down below. driver, side, passenger side. over there. this is the two bolts that, uh, Bolt the steering gear to the frame. We need to pull that nut and that nut and then probably push those bolts through. that way we can drop this thing down and pull it back some and extract these. uh, these bushings here. So let's see how this is going to go.
Came off no problem, dude. check our other side. These, uh, these bolts here should actually be turning here. They're rusted in.
Nope, they come out good. Ting Tink All right, let's pry bar this steering gear away from the body. some if we can want to I Want to leave the bolts in position. Behind These little mounts here and pry this thing off.
not breaking it there. We go get it from the other side here. see how we're sliding it off those pins? That's what we want to do. now.
the only thing really holding this, uh, steering gear in position. after we get these pins out, it's going to be the steering shaft and the lines and hoses. So to make sure I don't drop this, break some stuff. I Don't want to do that either.
Come on out. I'm taking care of that fry against the uh, the rubber boots here because that could break my boot. What are we stuck on? What's the deal? Steering shaft? probably. Oh, we got one side.
pull that other side apart. we're pretty close on us on the thing almost off of that pin. I Think the steering shaft is holding me up on the on the driver's side. It's kind of annoying.
seem to get there, we go try it more. I'm out of there. bushing. more.
maximum fry action. There we go. Okay, let's get our uh, basement bushing in. Push that out.
Slide that in. Push it down. There we go. That's one.
We'll get the outer bushing after we get the inner bushing on this other side over here. That one's kind of being a bear. No matter, we'll get it here. Let's get rid of that.
that old one. That one stayed stuck. This rubber on this side is swollen. The issue is is it's been exposed to a bunch of oil because the oil filter is right above us and when you do oil changes it drains down on all this and then it saturates this rubber right here on there.
Good Yeah, so that rubber is all swollen and it doesn't want to come out. but we're gonna make it. It shouldn't be that hard. It only takes books that it takes .6 hours to do this.
I Think that's a little inaccurate. Come here. no turning back now. I mean worst case scenario: I Got to take the steering shaft off.
We'll be fine if I can get all this rubber out there. we go now. I should be able to sneak a new rubber grommet in over that shaft. There we go before I'm digging myself a hole here.
could be doing that. Get on there please. Hammer Time Okay, so that grommets in. So we just got a maneuver.
This steering gear back over that little Peg again more pry action stuff. It's got to come out this way and bend back there. We go there, we go. Now we're getting it right. Just like so beautiful. Look at that right over the new Grommet bushing Grommet bushing. there's our outboard dry Hammer that one in and then push our bolt through. Okay, same thing on the other side so let's see new bushing is that one.
Slide that guy in, hammer it in, do whatever you got to do to get in good. I'll reach around, push the bolt through now we can bolt it back on. All right. All right.
big washer going on. same thing on the other side. get on there washer. oh going backwards impacts coming in this guy tight and one more Uno Moss on our driver's side here that Vault wants to push back into it so I need to hold it.
my bolt is turning. so I need friction? Watch this. Just like with the strut, got it? Awesome! Okay, steering gear has now been re-bushinged and grommeted. This section of the repair is good to go.
Let's get out of here All right Tie Rod time. I Believe he's winning from the bottom did they not I think that's how they went I Guess we're gonna find out. Try again I need to turn this and the survey says and memory serves. It says it goes in from the bottom like so that's correct So we'll get our nut on mirror night.
Please come on. I'm dropping it there and some forward quick action here. Bend that thing out of the way a little bit more. just gotta line up the cotter pin.
Good All right. Let's whoo gravity. Let's get our pin through the hole there. It's a safety mechanism.
It keeps the nut from coming off just in case it wants to come off. so we'll pull that through all the way. Seriously, what are we doing? Did you hear what I said cotter pin go through? Yeah, we're fine. That up and over and down and then I'll take this other one.
bring it around the side like so nice and pretty. Let's go on back to the other side and do it one more time. Tie rod assembly nearly complete to turn the wheel again. Now we can see what we're trying to see.
that guy in. put the nut on it. All right. Impacts coming in last time on the tie rod.
All right. come here and where's the hole? We're right, almost lined up I Can't see the stud is turned here a little bit more. How's that one good? can the pin went in? So yeah, that's good, but it's kind of at this stupid wrong type of angle here. I Didn't really think that through did.
I So we'll bend it in sections. This one goes up and over and the other one is going to go around. So we did it wrong and something was bugging me I knew I knew something wasn't right. I skipped the step.
You guys know you saw it though, didn't you? I didn't see it? No worries, we'll reach in there 24 mil. We should be able to get a hold of that, no problem. Yep, hey, that's why I missed it. It's over here, on the floor dangling around.
Let's get this last bolt in there. We'll get it threaded on and 24 coming in. Finalized impacts. All right. Time to redeem myself. Let's get that guy in getting. Forward Thinking Out Come on now. get in there.
Got it? Oh, come on, give me back my socket. Mine also All right. Good to go. Alrighty Folks At this point we have completed this particular segment.
The steering system has been brought back to life. The ball joints have changed. We've got new shock absorbing equipment on the vehicle with one exception. and that is these lateral shock absorbers right here.
These are designed to prevent uh, axle twisting under loads. Um I Had to order a set of those guys. those are on the way. and there's also a boatload of engine parts showing up pretty soon.
We've got some intake stuff going on, some throttle body stuff going on, and I think a few other knickknacky items that we're going to do to this engine to, uh, unlock some of the uh, the hidden horsepowers and make this Pony car have just a little bit more power. So uh, that being said, uh as of right now again I'm on a parts hold so we're gonna go ahead and close this one out right now. As always, hope you like this video. If you did like this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below.
Tap that like button while you're down there again. If you missed part one, just read: visit the the links down in this video's description or in the pin comment. It'll take you to the Part One video where I screwed up the audio royally. But I think we've redeemed ourselves.
So anyway, again and as always, thank you guys for watching. Have yourselves a fantastic day! See you guys later in a video in the Mustang in the transmission. Oh wait wait wait wait wait wait wait I forgot. don't go anywhere Shiny Ultimate Shiny.
Hear that? There we go.
I would once again like to voice my appreciation for castle nuts, cotter pins and nylocks vs. the "thoughts and prayers" approach VW takes.
I saw that caliper bolt seal split boyo 🙂
Maybe you should have sprayed the boots below the oil filter to prevent bushings from swelling up. Just saying. Get us some new videos quickly please!!!!!. We're jonsing for new content. Thanks Ray
You didn’t put the nut back on the second bolt on the right side shock strut next to the brake caliper.
The last video was fine with voiceover.
I wonder if it was just age of the vehicle and parts that was the big problem? Because the car didn't have many miles on it, seems like it's just a weekend or special event cruiser that one takes out in nice weather.
Ray as one mechanic to another, I personally believe in torquing all suspension, steering and brake parts. Other than that it’s a perfect video. You obviously found something that works for you!
Good video. This shows the struggle of fixing things and the true life of a mechanic. I would have spent the small extra and got urethane bushings for that rack if oil was the reason for the original being ruined. Urethane is resistant to oil and would never need to be replaced. Only downside to the urethane one would be a small amount of increased nvh. Great condition car and. Ice to see someone is doing the proper maintenance on it to keep it going down the road safely
I liked this video!
Is it just me or did you not use a castle nut with a cotter pin on the first ball joint?
put some lug nuts on to hold rotor in place when attaching caliper bolt
Nice save ray!!! I was going to comment you missed the strut nut but as always…you got it. Great video ray!!! Thanks again!
those inner tie rods are cooked. Good video though!
Fox body/sn 95 such a simple easy suspension to work on. Judging on how the the outer tie rod end does not stay up (flops towards the ground) when released from the spindle, the inner tie rods appear to be shot.
I kept yelling at my screen please put the nut on the bolt. Lol. Im glad you got it though
Waiting for part 3…
Sure that thing hasn't been underwater cuz I see too much rust under that body look like somebody tried to repair it
The sway bar end link rod's bushing were worn on the passenger side.I woulda have changed them too.
Good job
not impressed how you did the lower caliper bushings those bushings come out because the rust from the metal builds up and you have to ream that out first
The last video was fine. If you had not mentioned it, I would not have noticed
Why is there no castle nut on the new ball joints
Instead of saying it’s going to be a good video. Say it after. Ha! Awesome work sir!
You forgot a nut on the strut to knuckle
The new ball joints didn't have castellated nuts and cotter pins? They didn't look like nyloc nuts either. Has the aftermarket community decided that those aren't prone to backing off under normal use?
No need to go overboard on the pins. You never know who’s gonna work on the car next. Sometimes parts guys forget to put new pins in the box.
Any over 10 year old vehicle repairs are actually restoration !
Labor Times only accurate on brand new stuff. 5% more per year is better gage of aging difficulties. Corrosion issues are on top of all that.
Had a buddy call me about a hot water heater the other day and he said "it's going to be an easy job" well this will be the 4th day he's working on it, the second he said it'd be an easy job, I said I learned my lesson about them "easy jobs" they might normally be easy, but the second you say they're easy, that's when you mess up! Lol! So I know exactly what you mean about speaking too soon!
Aahh NUTS.😅
Ray you forgot to but the nut on the top of the two bolts
Not impressed with your power tool over torquing ability. I guess you forgot how hard it was to take everything apart. The rear lateral shock are also there to prevent wheel hop when trying to burn rubber. I removed mine long ago as new beefier rear control arms were installed and no more wheel hop.
Lol, were we supposed to take a shot at all the "that's what she said" opportunities?
I didn't see you install the nuts on either of the upper strut bolts.
Where is the oil change damage?!?
Ray, I get such a kick out of how our worlds are SO DIFFERENT! You get away with stuff down there in Florida, that would LOCK UP stuff, up here in the SALT BELT in a matter of DAYS.
If we did brakes, up here, like you do down there, they would NEVER last. We have a COMPLETELY DIFFERENT APPROACH..
I never see you using a torque wrench.. do you have one integrated in your arm? 😀
it looks like he didn't bolt both bolts on the second strut. He got in a hurry unless he went back and bolted it back down.
Luv yr work Ray but a Finger of Grease on re assembly would make me happier ….
Love the shop clean-up, but love saving older cars that much more!!
Please unbend the backing plate where you smashed it with the hammer.
Nice work Ray ! I can hardly wait to see this pony car careening recklessly and backwards down a sidewalk near me soon !
You talk about your nuts too often.
Who’s doing the painting on the other side of the Mustang?
Wish that they'd go back to recirculating ball steering. I hate R&P steering. R&P is fast but doesn't turn sharp enough. Always have to back up then finish your turn.
When the ball joints came out, you had to pull a cotter pin out of a castle nut. But the new ball joints didn't have them?
All repairs are solely at the customer's discretion but those sway bar end links and bushings looked a little sketchy. It would've been a cheap, easy replacement while everything was apart. Maybe in part 3? 😉
PS: Good catch remembering the strut bolt. 😬
You ever straighten the left front dust shield smashed by the hammer?
YOU FORGOT TO DO THE TOP BOLT
I think we need mustang sally by the commitments playing in the background at a reasonable volume 😊
Who is the ginger girl in the background just after the he gets the second bushing in ?
Great to see how you can apply learning from what worked out on one side to speed things up on the other side.
Nice and shiny
Driver's side back plate…c'mon yer better than that…tsk tsk tsk
I was jonesing the entire time until you realized you missed that upper strut nut on the passenger side!
Watching your video I'm reminded of how many poor Mustang II's sacrificed their steering racks for 90's hot rods with billet aluminum everything and tweed interiors.
Fix that bent dust shield you smashed with the hammer 🔨
I was just waiting to see if you would realize you missed it… bravo
I like this video and I am letting you know as per instructions.
thankyou Ray and another entertaining and interesting upload,,have a great day,👍👍
I cringed so much as you pried on the metal line coming out of the rack.
Thank you
Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Ray! Your slipping! You removed brake parts but FAILED to use any brake cleaner! 😂❤
Great Work Each Day
Just curious, I dont see torgue wrenches or lock tite used. Do you not use those things ?
A good example of how a car needs to be used regularly to keep it working.
If steering problem was sticking components, I was surprised car still appeared to drive straight when steering wheel wasn't centered. That would indicate loose steering rather than sticking.
I noticed in the first video you hit the driver's side rotor backing plate with the hammer, dissembling it. You missed straightening it in this one. Have a look at part one time stamp 8.00 minutes
Wow Ray is going to milk this mustang for 10 or 12 videos inwhich the last 1 or 2 will be the only ones inwhich anything is actually finished, I'm unsubscribing from this nonsense.
May I humbley make two observations, firstly, will you be doing a realignment job on the front end? Asking this because there is alot of play between the strut and hub upright at the bolted connection, this will affect geometry. Secondly, no lube on the front brake pads?! I'm in the UK so please excuse any differences in terminology. Peace to all.
It's always a good idea to double check your work, I've made that a regular part of my procedures. Ever since I forgot to tighten the bolts down in a brake caliper, which was not a good day I can assure you. An expensive mistake, especially if the bottom caliper bolt works it's way back out, then the caliper will flip up and dig into the inside of the wheel, and can lock a wheel up at speed. I know from experience. Not the experience you want your customer to have.
I've always preferred that shape of Mustang to the newer ones. Although I'm not a Ford guy.
That's going to be a nice buggy when you're done with it, always nice when it rides smoothly, turns or goes straight, as you want it to and doesn't clatter every time you go over a small undulation.
Any plans for the double shaft I see they're laying on the floor there? It's been in a lot of the videos lately
Hey think you forgot to strey out wheel shilding witch you band with a hammer on driver side 🤪
Wow, i can fallow the link and go back in time without a deloren! Your better the Doc Brown!!!
wow, you replaced so many suspension parts! parts alone must have cost a bit. very satisfying job. such clear procedure with reas room to work – i reckon could almost do myself with Rays tools & hoist. efficient parts delivery plays big part. looking forward to watching the engine work to improve response.
you hit the backing plate with a hammer when trying to remove the tie rod
Im screeming at the screen… YOU FORGOT THE TOP NUT!!!!! THE TOP NUT!!!! RAAAAAYYYYY!!!!! YOU ARE MISSING A NUT!!!… LOL!!!
Having been the back parts guy at Canadian Tire now for over a month, knowing all these parts that Ray and other mechanics work with is such a good feeling. As always, these vids are golden for learning purposes
Nice paint job. How about using a protective fender cover. 💀
Ray, I didn’t see you put on the top strut nut on the bolt before you installed the brake caliper on!
That last strut nut was making me crazy
u forgot the top nut on other side of car…
Makes you wish you had a blast cabinet for the rusty stuff.
Theres a jug of evapo rust you can get to wash them, but things take time the customer may not care about.
Thats going to drive and handle amazing now !
Hey Ray you Tweaked the backing plate when you were trying to hammer the first tie rod out with the hammer in pt1.
Ray, I hope you put the cotter pins in the ball joints we did not see you put those in on the video.
That's a clean mustang. However, at the end of the day it's still a FORD so you couldn't even give it away to me.
Awesome work! But I must point out, you did not straighten out the backing plate on the driver’s side where you hit it with the hammer while trying to get the tie-rod out!
GREAT video.
Am i the only one that notice the small tear in the slide pin boot.
Ray, you do a good job to learn as you go. Changing strategies.
"Everything's a hammer." That's why we can't have nice things.