Hello there everybody! Good day to you and welcome back! Glad you guys are here! This is a 1999 Ford F250 with Triton I think it's a 543 valve V8 Customer States Vehicle makes horrendous suspension squeaking noises while driving. so let's get straight to it. Let's hop on in, Fire this thing up, get it out on the road, listen for the suspension squeaking noises, and then we will go from there. So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video uping.

Z Hood Look who that guy is. All right, let's get this thing fired up and out on the road here. beginning engine starting sequence. Now all right, nice, good start.

Let's see what our mileage says on our odometer. That's going to be a negatory infinite mileage. It does not have mileage cuz I cannot see what the Odo meter says. We'll probably have to, uh, pull that up with a scan tool or something.

All right, let's get this thing in gear. We'll pull it out, we'll drive around some, see if we can't replicate some suspension noises, and then, uh, we'll bring her on into the shop, get it up in the rack, and take a look down below. I Already hear something all righty, so we definitely heard some squeaky squeak action. I'm fairly confident that it is in fact coming from the front lower suspension.

uh, possibly ball joints? uh, could be control arms, some bushings? uh, a visual inspection? uh, should clear that thing up or clear that matter up with relative ease. Observ numeral do and you guys can't feel it, but I can the climate control system Uh, in this particular F-150 F250 is, uh, vastly underperforming? Uh, that thing, uh, should also require some diagnosing. Maybe it's just low on refrigerant? Maybe the system doesn't work? Who knows. But we're going to find out.

now. over here on the floor. I'm seeing some brake pads and looks like uh, One Singular brake rotor. So we have one rotor and uh, looks like front and rear pads.

So uh, I guess we're I Guess we're doing a brake job on this thing too later on. Um, it's not on my list right here. but uh, we'll take a look at those uh friction material components below. Also, when we get this up in the rack, so let's finish our test drive, get this unit up and over the bridge.

We're off. We got a break in traffic. We'll swing back to the shop, get on the lift, and then get started. Oh, there's that check engine light.

See it right there? We have an issue. This window is kind of dirty. Let's see if we have any spray. Ah, we do have spray.

Ah, it's coming in. It's still kind of dirty, but better. All righty. We are approaching the shop space, going under the bridge and over the tracks.

Let's take one more listen for some noises going over these bumps. Right here. Noises? All righty. Let's get this unit up in the air and see what ails her from down below.

Hard left, clearing the doors of death. We're good here. Good. All right.

this is looking good. Center of gravity at the driver both sides parking the AO firing down. Let hop on out. popping that's not the hood, that's the brake we popsy Hood See what's going on down below the Bonnet LIF Her up, pull the wheels and inspect our Underc carriage and braking system.

All righty. Then we've got the rack set up in the appropriate positions. Let's raise this thing up in the air. Green subscribe button moving on up.

Let's go ahead and get the wheels on bolted and we can visually inspect our underc. Carriage Looks like we've got some spline Drive Locking lug nuts. See those guys right there? I'm going to have to. uh get a special tool to take those guys off.

Let's see here. I believe I've got. um there it is. the master lug nut set.

See what we got here. Survey says the big one. Big spline drive you heard. Got it? First, try switching out to impact gun cam.

What? Get on there? It's a delicate Harmony and Symphony Of Motion Let's get the left front removed. Customer had said something about uh, a bunch of grooves or some irregular looking wear on one of the rotors. I'm assuming that's why there's one brake rotor. Grab the Cs one brake rotor in the car.

don't know about the pads yet. We're going to find out. Dropping my nuts, there's nuts rolling around everywhere. There we go.

stay. Oh, this is the seven lug nut. Ford That's what's going on here. I Was wondering why my flanges were experiencing extra fatigue and turns out this is that weird goofball truck that has the seven front lug nuts or the seven lug nuts and not the six or the eight.

Okay, okay. FR Front Wheel: I'll check these out. They're directional off-road tires. See the v-shaped groove in them right there.

V Shaped Direction not rotational. People call them rotational and that's not the correct terminology. It is directional, but regardless of whatever anal it is, it's got seven nuts on each side. This is a decent looking rotor up here.

Pads are showing a little bit of wear, maybe 60% wear. Okay, there is a defect. Nasty bushing. Another nasty bushing.

How about our sway bars? That's okay. I Think these are our squeakers right here. These ball joints? All right. That's what it sounded like.

Other side, this is the one the guy had mentioned with the groove worn into it. See that. Groove I Think that's why we want to replace this rotor. Okay, all righty and same thing on these control arm bushings here.

Think we need a set of control arms on it and probably ball joints? Let's get let's look past this little dust boot business here. Oh yeah, look at that that is annihilated. There is no dust boot And that is a dry ball. We do not want dry balls on our hordes.

Okay here, let's do the same thing to this upper ball here and see if this one has lubrication. we may have a another dry ball on this side. bear with me. Oh yeah, she's nasty in there.

You guys see that? Yeah, that's not looking good. No dust boot, no lubrication. and there's also no grease fitting. No grease dirt here so you can't even grease these guys.

Too bad though. I Bet a greaseable joint would have prevented that long term. It would have done a better job for the remainder of its life, which is now over with. So I'm going to recommend uh, lower ball joints on this truck.

We're going to recommend Upper Control Arms on this truck and we got a D the AC and then uh I Guess we can go from there. All righty x amount of time has passed and we have authorization to proceed with some repairs. Uh, so it's time to get started. Whoa! We're going to take care of all of this front end stuff going on with this truck.

So we're basically going to do a front end rebuild. It's going to get a boatload of fluid services including a transmission filter and then later on we're going to pop the diff cover off and take a look at the new differential. So I'm going to start with our axle nut. Obviously, we need a 36 mm with some nut busting reverse torqus that wasn't very tight but okay.

let's see if that axle is going to break free from. The Hub Here let take a punch on it and a hammer. Yep, axle's loose. This is good so let's go punch gravity.

Oh wow, look at that. I didn't even notice this. This one's way worser than the other side. Watch this right here.

Look at how much play is in that upper ball joint. Dos is n good n all right. let's pull this ball joint loose. We're going to start pulling the control arms, then the steering knuckle is going to be loose.

We can disconnect the brake hardware, hang up the caliper, remove the rotor, pull the lower ball joint out of it, disconnect the knuckle if we have to, and then we'll press that ball joint in. In and out. So we've got a lot of things to do. I'm going to try to do this in some kind of an order here so it, uh, it becomes streamlined and easy.

Mr Dave is at lunch, but when he returns I think I'll get him working on the other side and we can just tag team this unit and get her done. ASAP But first, I need to get these cotter pins out of the hole here. There we go. get at it from the back side.

Come here pin I'll show you that's not going to work. This will I'll drive it out with a punch. Aha got it mostly. Back in with the needle noses and grab it and twist using leverage.

Looking for a ratcheting 21? Let's get this nut loose, uncage, spin this guy out and smack that with a hammer a couple times and it should pop that ball joint stud loose and free if it doesn't I may have to use a puller Here we go so we'll try this the Uh the easy way. First see that came loose. Kapuya Okay, that's out. Now up top, we need to pull these uh, upper control arm bolts out and then remove the entire upper 21 socket coming in unclick, spil need to hold it on the other side the the bolt is turning here.

Now these Uh have eccentric cams designed to allow for wheel alignment once the new parts are installed. So I'm going to have to take this thing down to the Uh Alignment shop and let them set up the geometric suspension alignment. Actually, there are no cams in there. look that's just a regular washer.

It appears that that bracket is just slotted to allow for motion. see right here see that slot that allows us to slide this control arm either forward or backwards and that changes the position of the upper ball joint thus changing our camber and Caster angles on the steering knuckle and the wheels. And now you know. All right, let's come out of this corner and move on over here to this corner.

We'll repeat on this bult right here in the back. Okay, 21 coming in, that's not going to fit. Let's try this side delivery. Okay I Return I Was receiving some pots rapid unclick here.

Let me get that. saving this stuff for later cuz I don't think my control arms will be coming with fasteners. so we're saving these. Wiggle that guy out.

That's our bolt and our control arm should be free. There she is. Oh got dirt falling out of that one customatic super junk control arm and look at that ball joint that is not okay. All right.

Well, now that we have that thing removed, we can, uh, we can hang our hook here and that's going to be for our brake, caliper and bracket. We need to remove that that way. I Can uh begin to remove the steering knuckle and coming up from the bottom? Let's get those uh, caliper bracket bolts disconnected there. that one there W Moss That one almost didn't uh, didn't come out I Had to approach it at that kind of goofy weird angle.

Regardless, caliper loose. So we're going to peel this guy back and then we're going to hang it up on our little Red Hook Let's see here, we'll just kind of slip that in. Just like so very nice. So now the caliper weight is not going to be dangling off the ABS wire or the brake fluid hose, which is good.

So let's come on over. We're going to knock loose looks like the, uh, the front tie rod here. Let's get that off just for ease of mobility. and then we can, uh, work on the bolt for the lower ball joint and break that thing loose.

This cotter pin will suffer a similar fate as its counterparts. It's coming out and getting thrown away because it's junk. Stop calling people's cars junk. I Get those comments.

Sometimes I call it something that is junk. actual junk and then people are like, you can't call people stuff junk. It's not their fault. Well, it is.

Sometimes it is your fault. If if it's junk and you let it get junk, that's your fault Dave's laughing over there right? Dave Yeah, I mean you can have not brand new things and just don't let it turn to garbage and then it won't be junk. But if you let your things turn to garbage, that's on you. You know cleaning is free.

Not neglecting things is also free. Know that stuff costs money. So if you have junk, that's your fault. So what I'm doing? See how I flip that castle nut around, flipped it around and I'm going to thread this back on to that tie rod.

Like so cuz then I can knock it loose the hammer. They don't always come off that easily, but when they do. I appreciate it. Pull that guy out.

That's not looking the greatest either. Yeah that that tie rod end is also junk. I'm going to have to replace those to. Okay, so I realize we've spent a lot of time in this video staring at balls and uh, twisting cotter pins around and we're almost done with the balls and cotter pins on this side, Dave's handling the balls on the other side so we don't have to.

He's trying as hard as he can to not laugh right now. My crude, immature humor is is wearing thin on the man. There we go. Okay, let's get the 24 on this one.

That was easy good and I think we're going to need a puller on this rear, but I'm going to give it one good shot with a hammer real quick. This is not to keep the threads from being damaged, this is to prevent the entire Knuckle from falling off. Well, the lower control on that give this a couple hits. See what happens? Nope.

Need a puller? All right, let's see what this thing does. This is an OTC No, it's an Oem tools. Uh, part number 2521 Niner that right there Somebody uh sent me this unit if it uh, does this job. oh look at that this PO So good.

I didn't even have to put force on it. That was fantastic. What a great puller! You guys should use the Amazon link down below to buy one of these. It works like that every time.

That was fantastic. Anyways, anyway, um I'm ahead of myself I need to actually disconnect my uh, wheel speed sensor from up here cuz if I attempt to remove this without doing that, I'm going to break it. So let us backtrack some and do some electrical disassembly. Looks like we've got just like an 8 mm bolt right here.

and then whatever holds that sensor in. I Think it's a Torx bin right down there here. Let's get out of this little corner and we'll get this backing plate disconnected. series of 8 mm.

Fasteners As long as they don't break off in the knuckle, we're good. I Think that kind of thing happens. Wiggle that in, wiggle it out, and then there's one more down below. there we go.

Okay, wheel speed sensor: Fastener It's all rusted out. Are you going to come out? or are you not smooth like butter? Let's take some needle-nose vice grips here and just get a good solid grip on that sensor without crushing it and we're going to just kind of wiggle and pull. Here we go. Once we get past the tension on that O-ring it pops right out.

So we got one more eight right here on that bracket and then we can pull this knuckle off of here. It's the return of the Oo the 8 mm come out there. We go. Beautiful.

Okay, so now everything is disconnected from our steering knuckle. We need to push the axle out of it and then lower it down and that will fully. Expos Ose the ball joint. Some folks will try to do this without taking everything apart and I Think that's foolish because this gets very heavy.

There we go. Okay, we are removed, disconnected, knuckle is in hand. Let's set this guy down. So looking at the top of the ball joint here, we can see there's a bunch of impacted and crusted in dirt.

We're going to wire brush that away and expose the rust contained within. And then I Can uh, go after that snap ring right there? get that thing removed and then we'll press this joint out of the lower control arm. There we go. Okay, snap ring pliers coming in.

These are actually reversible. You can either pull the snap ring or you switch positions. then it will push. so they're good for inside snap rings and outside snap.

Rings Fun fact. Anyway, we get that guy down the hole, give it a squeeze safety. Squints And there is our snap ring unit one more time with the wire brush here. That way, when we do the Press we don't inadvertently press a bunch of dirt into the barar and uh, cause some binding problems that's not okay.

Bunch of it in the groove there. Let's uh, dig that out. Good nice and not really shiny, but it's better than it was. Let us begin the lubrication procedure.

Put that soak in there nice and deep. Like All righty, let's get this crusty ball joint out of here. Wow, that's that's so bad. Look at that flippy floppy balls.

Okay, so what we've got, We've got a hollow cylinder and a stoppage plate at the bottom. We're we're going to take the big seat, clamp press, and we're going to set this up on the bottom of the unit here and then tighten down the shaft. What that's going to do as we tighten this shaft right here? It's going to put downward pressure on that ball joint body and it's going to press it out of the control arm and into this little cylinder device. Here, let's get this lined up a little bit better and centered properly cuz if we press it sideways it won't come out.

We'll set her up like right there. Think that's good? Nope. Still off center. How about how about there There we go.

Okay, so now we just have to put this thing with an impact gun. It's going to extend the shaft, push the ball joint out of the control arm, and then all we've got to do is grab the new one, flip it around, press the new one in, and then we can reassemble this side. Hey Dave Just found something cool. It looks like the wheel fell off of this truck while it was driving.

Once, Look at this over here. Never saw this. There's our ball joint. You guys may have seen this, but I didn't but look, that's like ground off from when it fell and hit the ground and it was rolling or sliding or dragging.

Yeah, that is a ground away. Fastener It's not okay. Yeah, it'll un thread though the hammer socket onto it and send it. It'll go.

What do you think? Probably come off easier. Actually, it might. There's nothing holding it on. it's got like three threads left.

Yeah, just send it. hey. worst case scenario, we chop it off with the saws. All right.

We have the power of Destruction Anyway, let's get to impacting on our balls joint. 22 mm coming in. beginning tightening sequence. Now watch right here.

That's not all righty. I believe I'm making an eror I Do believe that this right here is part of the factory ball joint. So I'm effectively just pressing against the ball joint. So I need to redo everything I've just done here.

One click. Yeah, that's a I did it wrong. That's fine. Okay, so this is the biggest cone that I have and it barely doesn't fit.

We have to hammer it on there. That's better. Let's try this again so we'll thread this guy back down once more. Get it lined up again.

Now let's try it. Full send, partial sending. All right, let's back this thing off and out. And there we go.

It is free. So now we need to just clean up that hole a little bit and prep the area for the new ball joint. No seriously, we got to clean it out. remove the dust and dirts and debris.

That way we don't uh, press them into that bore hole and cause a binding condition that would be bad. There we go. Nice. H Shyish, Okie dokie.

Here's our new ball joint. It uh is greaseable unlike the factory one. You see the splines here so that can grip into that B on the control arm and we've got a functioning Dust Boot and a very large nut for the Bottom Now we're going to have to press this in in a similar fashion to how we pressed that one out. We can see that the rubber is encroaching on the area where we would have to press from.

So I'm going to remove this rubber boot and then press against the housing body right here to push this into position. At least that's what I intend to do. and I'm going to do that without tearing this. uh, this rubber piece.

or I'm not going to do it that way cuz I can't get this rubber to come off without Dam damage? Maybe I can. Oh yeah, here it comes. I think it's got some metal impregnated into the rubber. that's why that was so tough.

Yeah, feel that it's not. it's not soft and Squishy so we can see our ball joint right here. It's got grease inside of it. We're going to press against this area right here.

that little CL So I need to find something to press against this. Okay, so what we need to do is take this ball joint and realize that it is the wrong one and doesn't fit. C All right well seeing as how we don't have any blower ball joints, might as well go ahead and get these control arms set up cuz I'm out of Parts Uh Dave Ran off to the parts house to go and grab the correct lower ball joints. Well actually he took one of the old lowers and brought that with him.

Uh, the issue is is the part store says that this one that looks like this is not the right one. It says this is for a two wheel drive and clearly this is a four-wheel drive truck. so something's going on with the part numbers. It's whatever.

No worries, we will move on and continue. So just like the reverse of taking these out or it is the reverse, the inverse. rather we're going to go and just put this right back in. Got a nut and a washer not in that order and then on the back side similar slide that guy through and our nut and our washer right.

there's about right. Okay, so using the witness marks on where I think this is supposed to go, we're going to eyeball this and line it up as best as possible and I believe right about, there's where I found the originals I'm also going to angle this upward ever so slightly. I'm not going to apply full torque on this, but I do want to get it tied enough where it'll kind of keep its position that way. It's close for when the Align guys have to make the adjustments and also to not tax the uh, the bushings click There we go and then uh.

one more over here on the back side. right there. that's looking pretty close according to the witness marks. we can see right here where the old bushings we touching the metal.

so we're going to just try to line that up right where it is. There we go. That's one side. I guess uh.

we need to go over to the other side and we'll get that one set up as well. So let us, uh, circumnavigate our Ford over here and we can put this other upper control arm in position I Hope Dave doesn't mind. this is his side, not mine. but he's not here right now.

Dave's not here man. Okay Arm Coming in just like the other side and unlike the other side with this one's a little stiff h No matter, hammers, hammers are good, just tap it on in. there. There we go.

Okay, so this back side's a little bit more Loosey Goosey than the front. Harden My Noggin Get in there bolt there so that's one bolt, one nut, one washer on the back side. Kind of a tight squeeze with these wires in here now. I can kind of Wiggle this around, get some alignment going on this front side.

see how I used the bolt as a pry bar? Clever No. I think it was my washer fell. No repeat There we go. It's two bolts, so let's see here.

We'll come in from the bottom, lining up the witness marks, holding it relatively levish as per my guesstimation of where it should go. and then we'll sneak the tool in in front. Slippage. Click.

There we go. and then the one on the back over here. sneak that right down in there. Good.

Okay, that guy is in position waiting on our ball joints. Well, I Still don't have any ball joints yet, so let's continue disassembling. I'm going to pull these, uh, outer tie rod assemblies out and we're going to change these with some some new ones as well cuz the ball joints or the ball and socket joints rather, uh in. The tie rods were remarkably customatic and they're not in good shape and I'd hate to do a a halfway kind of repair and not address uh, these other safety items.

so these ball joints are also going away. If I can manage to dig this cotter pin out, it's stuck. Oh, give us some wiggle action and then we will apply some leverages here. Twist and Pull and Pull and twist you, We'll just up the ante a little bit with some side cuts.

leverage. Booah! right? So now we need a 21. Crack this guy loose. Oh, that's tight.

That's very tight. Okay, that's cool, Little Bo, No worries, we'll cheat the wrench and add another wrench. What we're going to do is uh, compound wrenches. So we'll take this one, put it on the open end of the other one.

Now we've doubled the leg of our lever and crack it. Loose Beautiful. Now she's loose. We'll swap it out to a ratcheting unit, take the castle nut off and we'll pop that guy out of there.

I Wonder if I can use that handy dandy little press device on this one? My OEM tools one that I didn't really get to use on the ball joint separation. We'll try it in a moment. Run out of threads? Come on with it. Give it back to me.

Oh, we're stuck Stuck on Stupid Look at that. There we go. and yeah, I do realize I could probably get more space out of this if I went up into the cabin and just turn the steering wheel. But but those of you who have been around a while know I like to do things like the hard way first.

It's just in my nature. Anyway, let's get our little pull device in here. tighten that unit down. This should make light work of this.

Unfortunately, it presses that way. See that it presses is from that way and not from the other way. So I'll have to get in there with my angular impact yet again. 90 coming in.

we're going down and we're going to make some contact with our tool. Go ahead and send it that's in there. Look at that press. Come on.

Oh, that's in there that is flipping tight right there. I Can't get that any tighter with, uh, the impact. I'm going to switch that out to a ratchet and put some more pressure on it. actually.

you know what? Where's my? where's my hammer? real quick. Hang on. let's just try something here. w got it.

It was not violent, but it could have been okay. So that one's out junk. Let's batch my tooling action here. Oh, that thing is Hot Hot Hot Hot Hot Hot hot.

That's a super duper hot mu Cente in espanol. All righty. Now that that tie rod is out, we can go ahead and get the new one in. it's an assembly.

I Ended up buying the inners, the outers uh, and the adjusting sleeve because that makes life easy. It's never good to have to take the adjuster sleeve and the jam nuts off the old units and then swap over to new units. It's just it's a lot of extra work. so I routinely will replace the adjusters with tie rods.

It's just good practice is how it's done, and anybody who works in the industry knows. It's remarkably annoying when you get a job to change tie rods and you got to take them apart just to. uh, get the jam nuts. Dave You're supposed to say loud noises first.

All right. Ah whoa. I almost fell over. That was awesome.

H That guy up on let's find. All right, there's the hole for the Cotter key Cotter pin split pin. Call it what you want the pin. Let's just get everybody nice and lined up a little bit more.

Turn on it. We're good here and kick should be it looking good. Okay, all righty pin coming in. We'll drop that down.

Okay. pin coming in. Drop that down through the hole. it's in position now.

We will secure it for all eternity. Bend it that way and I'll bend it this way. Doing it wrong. There we go.

Okay, tie rods are in. Let's get back to work on this ball joint down here. All right, let us try these ball joints again. Now these ones have this uh, that face on them, that big lip.

so I won't have to remove the boot. This is actually the third set and I believe these are going to fit no problem. Now we can see that this is going to protrude through the top of the control arm. So I need to take this little spacer here, which is or has a diameter large enough to fit over that splin area.

See that how we're doing that. So what I need to do is I'm going to gently take the hammer, try to run this up. Oh gravitas, try to run this up just a little bit. it's not going to stay I wanted it I wanted to get it to go in ever so slightly first, just to make it a little easier to, uh, press that in position.

But no matter, we'll get around it. Maybe not that one. Okay, because it's this one that's going to fit on that little flange. Then we're going to take this cone which is going to fit over our cylinder and it has a hole to allow that unit to pass through like that.

See. So then we can set our big clamp up and see how it's got the hole in the bottom of it that's going to fit down over that stud down below. We're about to have a massive gravity moment. There, It is.

okay. Got tank 37. Let's try it one more time. Oh, set you up through the hole, up and over, screw it down, continue screwing it down, making it centered.

Okay, there we go. So now we're all lined up here. We've got space. I Can feel the stud through the hole, so that's good.

that's all in alignment. Let's get the gun and send it home real quick. Like here. See what she does? You going to go in? Sure it is.

I wouldn't it Loud noises? All right. we're flush right there that is in position. Let's back off the gun. Wooo! There we go.

All right that one's in and I think Dave already did the other side. So now we need to snap ring this unit so it can't come back out and we'll continue the reassembly. All right, let's move our shaft here. Got our snap ring? It's set up on the pliers already.

We open it up, slide it over, get on there snap. Okay, that unit is in position. Good to go. Okay.

In my right hand, I've got the castle nut for the ball joint and in my left hand I've got the steering knuckle. so we're going to slide the shaft in, up and over the joint, take the castle nut, get that thing threaded, get on there. and now our steering knuckle is in position and it cannot come out all right. Um, You may need to turn the steering wheel your direction to get the tire right out and I do have a pullar that will help you out, but I think you're going to need some some more space.

Give me a second. I'll uh, make it out of your way. Let's tighten up this lower nut real quick. Finish off this section of the operation.

Click a little more to line up the holes and a little more to line up the holes. There we go. holes are now lined up good and one more. Cotter key.

This one will'll run through the back side here. Pull it through, index it, pull it all the way. Give it the wraparound treatment here, not the reach around the wrap around different kind of treatment. Erico does the reach rounds I'll do wraparounds all right.

Good to go. Hang on Dave I'm going to climb up there and hit the key. uh. I'll turn the steering in your direction so you can have some access to, uh, that tie rod over there.

Okay, all right. Ling good. that might be fine sticking out. All righty.

Moving on up some. Let's go ahead and Line This Knuckle Up with the upper ball joint. if it's going to come down that far. I I tightened it while it was up in the air.

Now it's kind of kind of hovering. I will pry bar it down. that'll work more bar and it's the big one. The 4-footer there goes the flashlight.

Try this guy right down. like so then I can come around with the castle nut on the back side. Get that thing threaded in. good to.

Goan Incoming impact click is Am I going the right way. no going the wrong way bad R clicks and we get another CER key on this one back here. Run that guy right on through. Get in there flyer time there she is Bend her around going to bend that one around too.

Again, we're not doing the breach around, we're doing the wrap around. Okay, so since that axle is now permanently a fixed, we'll just go ahead and put the axle nut on and apply some torque action to this full send. H It's spinning when it shouldn't be spinning. It's hard to apply torque while it's rotating.

There we go. Nice and tight leg. I'll talk to you later. So earlier we saw that they had one new rotor in the truck and I have convinced the owner to replace those rotors and pairs.

So I ordered one and we're going to use theirs. Uh, fortunately I was able to find the same manufacturer is the one inside of the cabin I Don't like to cross manufacturers because you can get different levels of hardness and that's going to give you different levels of friction and that will give you different levels of braking. And that's not okay. You want evenness in your brakes? So anyway, that being said, let me polish this up real quick here.

I need a new pad and then uh, we'll throw the rotor on, then get the caliper on. Then this side is good to go there we go. New Sing pad this uh unit is from 3M also if you guys want one I'm not going to Amazon link it but the 3M sells these things so just look at on their website. There we go.

Nice and shiny. and as for the voids in between, we'll use a Pneumatic polishing wheel. It's loud noise this time de crustified complete more. All right, that's better.

Now we're good. You know what? I I've got to do. Do it. I I Just have to do it shiny.

Okie Does we have one breake rotor coming in? Let's deoil it. They come with a coating of oil so they don't rust in storage. Give it the flip. There we go.

that's pretty. Look there's rust. The oil failed Dave Just saved the day I Completely got ahead of myself and did not install the backing plate. Uh, you guys probably already knew that but I was uh ahead of myself and I forgot.

so I didn't do that. So uh, let's yeah. let's get that backing plate installed. Thank you Dave for pointing out the aror of my wayss much appreciated that would have is there.

Uh C pins? Um yeah, they're over here on my box and and if we run out I have a box like a separate box of them. but I have all the packages with the pins over here. All right Torx 30 coming in, that's for our wheel speed sensing unit. Switch that out to the 8 mm going.

Throw that vacuum plate back on right about. like So let's get all these uh bolts started first before we get them torqued. There we go and number three down at the bottom. good.

FX There we go. Top one sweet now I can put my shiny new rotor back on Hoay and we're only going to do one shiny new rotor cuz the one that I ordered was not correct again. So here let's turn this guy and circumnavigate one more time. we can fetch our caliper.

Get that guy hung up right over here. So I should have thought of this earlier, but I didn't I uh I very much could have uh pulled this all the way apart and separated the Cal from the bracket. I I should have cuz I have to do it now. but I did not.

Oh the things that we would have done or we could have done or that we should have done. no matter. Okay, that is the bolts for the caliper bracket. Let's get this thing separated here.

it's actually kind of stuck. There we go. Got it all right? there's our bracket. I'll put the caliper back I Found it for right now we going to hang you back up and the pads are falling out.

We have new pads on the floor so we're going to use those. Let's get these old ones out. Flip our bracket tree and start the bolts looking good. Wrong Socket Not looking good.

Still wrong Socket not looking good. Right socket. Hooray! We've got the Right stuff. Okay, let's get this unit tight.

Click twice. Click is. spin that guy around and I've got one more Fastener up here that I forgot that's the bolt for the Uh wheel Speed sensor Connector Wire Tighten that guy down. Flicks all right.

Let's hang the pads and get that caliper back together. This side will be good to go. Let's get rid of these uh, these old shims. We don't need these.

Good little bit of wire brush action. knock the dust out Tinky Tinky Tink Okay, bottom shim. that one's in and the top shim. Snap that guy into place.

Good to go. Let's hang the pads. So using old pads as a reference, this one has no indicator marks or no indicators. See a little wear indicator right there.

This pad does not have that and the two circles here indicate to me that this is the inboard pad. cuz this one is contacting the Pistons and the caliper so we can dig one of the non Squealer indicators and that will be our inside. Slip this guy in there, we go and then our outboard pad matches up with this one. So we slip this guy in, push it in there, we go all set.

Now we must take our caliper, bring it on, over flip it cuz I've got to compress the Pistons and I'll do that with my handy dandy caliper compressor tool. It's a ratcheting device, a simple unit. Here, we close it up some. it's got a forward threaded side and a reverse threaded side.

We'll stick a brake pad in there for some space. now. as we ratchet this unit, it's going to push these Pistons inward, compressing them and giving us the space to put the caliper over top of our fresh set of pads. Dave Am I Okay to compress the uh pistons on this caliper here.

I'll just keep an eye on I'm not pushing? yeah, I'm not pushing yours out Am I No I don't think so. That can happen If you have both calipers removed and you push one side in, the hydraulic pressure can just go to the other caliper, push the Pistons out and then they fall on the ground. It's never okay. Slide pin grease coming in, give that a bit of a squirt and some more on this side squirt.

Good to go. take our slide pins and stick those back where they go. Nice. You guys thought I was going to do that without greasing these up.

I saw you I saw the look in your eyes. So what we need to do here is make sure that this tab slips down into that little Notch down there on that bracket. Not very easy to do, it's not wanting. Oh no, my pad fell out.

that's it's not okay. Get in there break pad. that might have had something to do with why it didn't want to go. It's getting late in the day guys.

I'm running out of calories. my energy is falling there down. Push the pin in on the top. Oh I've got it Bass Awards Look that's got a a groove right here to hook into the caliper.

Hang on doing it all wrong. Ray pry that slide pin out. Some slide pin's in the way there. We go there now.

we got it good. Oky doie two bolts coming in from the backside here. That one's not fitting so well I don't want to put any force on it for fear of knocking the caliper loose. so I'll put that in the bottom and that line some.

There we go now. it fits more better to reach. Let's get some torque on these these fers here and we're good here. Okay, back to our 90.

back to our T45 that one's tight. That one doesn't have a straight line to reach the Fastener So back to the extension. Here we go. Should have done that to begin with.

Okay, that's on Slide the boot over our bolt where it's supposed to be. same thing on that bottom one. The bolts have a Groove for the dust boots to ride onto. slide you back that's not working.

miniature fry driver I'll get under it some and give it some stretch action there. Good to go. Oky does! We are nearly complete with this side. One More Time Around The Corner Let's get that tie onod in position and with the exception of some grease, we are done here.

which is cool cuz it's the end of the day and the Sun is super long because of that uh, little bit of a time change business that we keep indulging in as a society. I'm not a huge fan of switching our clocks at random I Don't care if it's dark outside in the morning? that's called normal, we should be indulging the normal trying to change it to suit ourselves. Yeah, I know here. I go with that.

Common Sense Business again. Got to quit doing that If the Matrix finds out out, they'll send the agents. Okay, that one's good. One more cter pin and we're good to go over there.

So I uh, we're not going to get the other side done actually. Um, like I said at the end of the day and my brake rotor that I had ordered was not the right one. What are we doing here? Dude? Oh, that's cool. He's got the bracket hanging.

Yeah. I don't have a rotor for this side so we're going to have to save this one uh for Manana As I mentioned earlier when we this video, there is some other work to be done on this particular truck. Uh, none of that's going to happen today. So uh, I'm done with my side and the Sun is long.

So I am out of here I Have nothing more to offer you on this particular truck except for one cter pin key pin, split pin or whatever that I'm not going to put in just to just to get to you just a wee little bit. So anyway, all jokes aside, as always, I' like to thank you guys for watching this video. I Certainly hope you enjoyed this frontend rebuild. Uh, part One on this 1999 Ford F250 with a 54 four-wheel drive.

If you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below. Do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there and most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day! See you guys in the next one again! Thanks for watching in the video into Ford into front end into transmission.