I'm probably going to need to shut this off. it's too loud in here. There we go! Hello everybody! Good day to you! Welcome back! Glad you guys are here. We are returning to a Part Two episode on this 2002.

Pontiac Ferrari Bird That's right, it's a Firebird with some Ferrari Roots that's why I'm calling it a Ferrari bird. She has approximately let's find out: Wake Up Ferrar Bird 157,000 565 miles on the odometer customer States Uh, nothing I actually brought this in for a clunking, banging, suspension, rattle bang noise uh down below while this vehicle was driving and while we were out and about on a test drive I had located a pair of Upstream oxygen sensors here on the passenger seat and found out that the customer wanted those uh O2 sensors installed I Don't know why we do not have a check engine light. yeah, there's no service engine soon warning indicator that's indicated. so I'm not exactly certain why my consumer uh purchased a pair of O2 sensors, but the customer is always right.

So I'm going to go ahead and pop in the hood and we're going to get started on the replacement of those components uh which I have right over there hanging out on top of my toolbox. So let's get this hood open. let's set up some luminaries. let's get some tools out.

let's get started cuz I have some other things to accomplish today as well. so stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video. Hing Z Hood Oh look who that guy is. Well, Shucks we've got a 3800 Series 2 V6 stuffed into this Fierro bird Ferrari bird not a Fier and I can see our O2s.

There's one right way back there on that exhaust manifold and the other also way way way back there on this exhaust manifold on this side. uh I thought I was going to be able to get a hold of those from the top side I was wrong. So we need to reset this rack right here. We'll run this thing up in the air and I'll try to get at it from the bottom side.

Get this guy set up down here now. I'm convinced this is going to be the absolute hardest edit possible because I'm trying one more time to uh to use the uh new camera system and that's what you guys are looking at right now I don't know how effective my efforts will be. It might be a bust, it might not. We're going to find out one more that one down there and one at the front.

What can I see I cannot see Moving on up with our black subscribe button all the way up. that'll do down the locks for Safety Lock Click Good to go. So since we're doing Oxy O sensors, I should break out the oxygen sensor tool kit here. They're all roughly the same size I think they're 24 22 mm.

Uh yeah, 22s and you'll see these sockets have a slit in them. grab. And that's because the O2 sensors. Well, they have a a pigtail wiring harness and a connector.

Now you cannot put. Come here. You cannot put a regular socket over something with a connector because the cable and the connector are in the way. So these O2 sensors like I said are slotted to accommodate for the cable to pass through them.

here. Let's get this uh, zip tie disconnected here off of our sensing unit and I'll show you kind of how this is supposed to work. So the slot will go over the cable and then then the business end of the sensor will engage the socket and then we can use the socket to manipulate the sensor. Uh, the only Dr downside is is you've kind of got to watch out for the cable because it's going to kind of flop around and twist in circles as you tighten this.

But other than that, uh, that's pretty much the gist of it right there. So set this guy aside for right now. we'll leave the protective cap on it so it does not become contaminated. Take this thing over to the vehicle, get this Uh unit disconnected Ed or the old units disconnected removed and we'll get these new ones swapped in.

All right, Moving on over here. let's see I Guess you know what? I'm going to start with the easy one first since I never do the easy side first. Let's go ahead and get this connector disconnected here. It's got this little blue retention clip in there that keeps the connector from becoming disconnected at its primary clip.

We have to pull that guy out and and get her detached right here. Oh, it's oily. I'm getting gloves on. We're not.

Uh, we're not getting filthy dirty on this job today. It's going to be a negative and it's going to be a two-handed Operation Push That guy up there. We go. Now.

We are successfully disconnected right there. Okay, we're disconnected. Let's go in with our O2 sensor socket. We're going to slide the groove over the water wires just like before.

Set that socket up. now. Look, we don't have any space here to fit a tool. See that right there? There's like maybe one finger's worth.

but we do have a big hex on the end of this particular socket. so I can use a wrench to break that, uh, sensor free. That's exactly what we're going to do. and I believe it's going to be a 1 and 16th inch slip that guy right over.

Not that way we won't and give it some reverse torque action here. See what it does? Beautiful. Cracked loose. no problem.

That's what we like. So now I'm going to recover that socket. Pull that out of there. We should be able to spin this guy out all by itself and never mind it's not coming out going back in with the socket.

Yeah, threads are just a little gritty. I think it's going to be okay. Come on or not, threads are very gritty. Yeah, see how that uh sensor is starting to starting to take up all the slack in? The Wire Got watch out for that.

Yeah, that's not looking good. Look at that thing. Super duper cross dematic, you nasty. Okie Do's new sensor unit coming in.

Let's go ahead and pull the cap and I'll just, uh, find the hole real quick. I think it's right right about there. We get the sensor started, apply some torque action, and get her reconnected here. Come on on sensor thread.

Yeah, it's little hard cuz I got this uh, this wire trying to manipulate the sensor body and then I've got to get these threads started. but the thing's pointing away from me and down and just awkward weird angles I Guess there we go I felt him catch. Okay, we have begun the threading process here. Nice.

now that's in sensor coming back in or sensor socket rather. then we'll get after it with that one and 1/6th wrench one more time, apply some torque, crush the Crush Washer seal it off. This side's good to go here. Click.

Got it. So now going recover that socket. we'll get our sensor connectors reconnected here, snap those guys back in, and then we'll put our little blue lock back on I Know y'all can't see up there. it's kind of dark.

Let me get it snapped in. I'll show you. come here a lock. See that right there.

Got the little lock in. it goes. It passes through the the clip on the back side of this one connector here and then what we need to do. See that hole right there in that bracket.

Just need to pass that insert into that hole and that's going to secure that wire connector. Actually wrong. There's another one at the top. We have to use the one up top.

That's A. That was my error in judgment. Hang on here. You get all this stuff situated here and that I'll go up there and fix that here.

I'll go up here with a trim tool. We pop that old piece out. that's the uh retainer that goes on the old sensor. It broke off on the bracket.

There we go now. I'll just take this guy and stick that side through the hole. That's what I was trying to do the first time, but I had in the WR hole. That's why it wouldn't fit.

Push that guy right on through. Get in there. That's a tight squeeze too. The new Plastics are less pliable.

almost. It's halfway through there we go. Got it? Good to go. All right.

Going back in for the second sensor body. let's Slide the groove over or Slide the sheathing back sheathing fire Loom whatever. Slide that back and then slide the sensor over there. we go now.

Same procedure as the other side. Sneak this wrench in there. There's a little bit less space on on this one than the other. May need to use a a ratchet.

I Can't reach here. We'll go in with a flex head 3/8 ratchet. not a super long one. H Still can't get it to line up here.

It's annoying I can't get the the ratchet to go in into the socket. it's not lined up. Seriously. All right.

New trick is: put the socket on the ratchet and then try to get the socket over the sensor. Also not working because it's too wide. Come on, or too long. Killing me.

Smalls There we go and I still can't get it. Okay, well what do I do Oh I know? how about a low profile R Ratchet: Let's try this one. It's a low proo head. It's much more thinner than the other one was and it's shorter so maybe I can get some more throw out of it.

Yeah, Oh cool y that works. and we're binding up the cable now. So I think that's as far as we're going to go, but it is loose. Let me reach up in that hole and pop the connector off its bracket.

It's going to be another job for the trim tool here. Oh I can't see it There it is. man. she's way up there.

got it! h Well I can't pull that connector down far enough for you guys to see. it's not going to happen I Could barely even get my fingers on the little blue thing. We might have to do this from the top side. Let's let this thing down some.

Skipper Coming out. let's get out of this thing and uh or out from under this thing. off the locks lock release coming down Fiero Bird all the way down or Ferrari bird I keep calling it a Fiero bird. it's a Ferrari bird Ferraro Okay I think if that is down enough, let's find that connecting unit.

and yeah yeah, look there it is. See way back here. you guys see man. I Can't see anything in this car.

Not killing me. You guys see that bracket right there. little loop hole in the middle of it. that little hole right there.

If you look through that little hole, you'll be able to see the blue piece on the connector. C So let me try to manipulate that thing out from behind the bracket so I can get a hold of this little blue thing? That's what I'm looking for. See that little uh little tab clip thing I need to unsnap that? come off? Come on. oh c it's not coming out I Do not know why it will not do what I want it to do.

Come on you almost. I Got to get the right angle on my dangle here I can't get that thing to pop out. It's just too. just too tight.

It's got little tabs on it that lock it in and those guys don't want to come free there. Straight on pull got it? So now I can separate these two connector halves. pop that one off from that one. Now the sensor is all by itself right down there.

Okay, let's raise this thing back up in the air one more time and then we'll get that sensor spun out. Then we'll let it back down one more time and then get that sensor reconnected. Revisiting the passive subscribe to the channel button Mov back up. Yeah, we call that a passive Act of self-promotion I wasn't directly reminding you to subscribe to the channel so you do not miss out on future content.

I was passively reminding you to subscribe to the channel so you don't miss out on any feuture contact and that will end my moment of active self-promotion You guys ready for the uh, the next Act of self-promotion It's actually not promotion I Just want to thank you guys one more time. I Had mentioned the uh, the grand opening of the Rainman merchandising company the other day. That's where I sell custom embroidered hats, t-shirts and other very fine quality accessories of the most premium level. Anyway, I had mentioned uh, the grand opening of the online store located at Ra Man Raz Repairs.com and you guys pretty much sold out all of the inventory on day one and it was amazing! Uh Chris who is managing the project on on that front Christopher he has, uh, he was quite surprised by you guys's behavior and I was pleased to put him in a mild state of panic because the man was not prepared for what you guys did to him and I think that's awesome.

So I appreciate the Uh I appreciate the patronage to the store. We were nervous on how it was going to work out on day one and uh, everything went uh, mostly swimmingly. The system seemed to have functioned as designed and I am super thrilled with the results. So thank you guys who have participated in the pilot launch of the Uh, the newly founded merchandise Store.

Your efforts and your patronage and your attention are most appreciated and we thank you for such things. Now that's what you call shamer less active self-promotion And on that note, our sensor has been removed. There she is. that is the uh, the passenger side unit.

Let's find the boxes. Oh, slipping, my brain's not working I forgot I already took that thing out and brought it over here. There she is. So now pop that guy off reversing procedure.

We're going to maneuver ourselves right up into position here and get this last one screwed in I need to switch hands I don't thread very well with my my left hand because of my right hand dominance I Just don't have the like the feel for it I Guess so we got to do this on this side in the dark. There we go. It's started. See I like to spin these in and then tighten them up before connecting them.

Some folks will do it the hard way and they'll get it started and then connect the connector and then when they try to tighten it down, it just twists up the wires so you got to. You have to do this. tighten it before you connect the connector. That way you don't get a massive twist in all your all your wires and whatnot.

I Know that seems self-explanatory but you'd be surprised at how wrong folks like to do certain types of things. I mean he I even like to do things wrong. It's almost like a challenge to do things wrong. Sometimes do it wrong and get the right results.

That's the best. It's called recklessness. Oh man. I had the ratchet flip the wrong way.

That was silly. Anyway, it's coming up on some torque action here a little bit more. Nothing crazy click got it actually? I didn't get it. it just fell but I see where it went.

It's not lost here. we go. Okay, both sensors are now installed. Let's go ahead and feed this wire up to the top here where I can reach it from the top side.

That should be good and we'll let this unit down one more time. and then, uh, get that unit reconnected there off the locks I Don't even think I set it on the locks that time. Lock release Ferrara Bird not Fierro bird Ferrar Bird coming down all the way down. All right.

Let's Mosey on around to our front side here and I'm going to where's that connector at? I See the blue I see the wire. Okay, here's the sensor side of the connector. We can see the insert right here. that's for uh, connecting this to the bracket which is back there.

And of course we can also see the uh, the maale side of this connector or the harness side. rather. So, what we need to do is not blind ourselves with the light. Close Quarters Combat.

That's what we've got going on here. Snap that guy back in, take our blue thing and see this like a pet peeve of mine. A lot of people don't put these blue things back in I don't know why you find them just dangling sitting around. That's the proper way to reconnect this Uh connector.

So then all I need to do is slip this harness back around behind that engine bracket which uh, can't seem to do for some reason doesn't fit. There's a heater hose in the way and then I reach around I can feel the hole that insert. Let's get that lined up right right about there that looks good or feels good you guys can't see. but I can I can feel it with the end of my flang over there.

One finger has got the hole and the other finger has got the little, uh, little insert. Let try to push that through. Oh There She Goes Got it. Cool Beans all right.

That one went in easier than the other side. Any wayers. O2 Sensors have been replaced left side and right side. Let's hop back inside, fire this thing up and we'll just make sure that they're functioning.

We can do that by checking for a check engine light beginning Engine Three starting sequence right now, so this operation is complete. However, I have more to offer you if you guys recall. In the last episode of this particular car, we had replaced the bushing for the stabilizer beam that comes up from the rear axle. The bushing was disintegrated and we replaced it with a red in color neoprene bushing.

Uh, During that inspection, while we looked at that bushing, we had found that some of the bushings in the lower control arm were a little squishy and they were possibly torn. The arm didn't have a a bunch of, uh, play in it, but it did have um, torn bushings. They weren't falling out of it, but the the arm was able to sway left and right over the bushing, indicating that the rubber had separated from the steel surround that it was inserted into. So what we're going to do is pull those uh, those control arm units off there and prep the rest of this rear suspension for some component replacement.

So let's power this down so so effectively. This is kind of like like a it's like a multi- repair video. There's more than one thing to do. Changing themes here.

Back up again. Oh so I'm waiting on parts and I need to go call them and see where that stuff's at. but it's getting a little cold here so let's fire this heater back up. Ha.

There we go. Okay, well now I was uh I was calling up the part stores trying to get an ECA on, um, on those control arms that we ordered and they're not answering the phone right now. Which tells me they're having a very, very very busy day. if they're going to be having a very, very busy day, I don't know if they're going to be able to drive up to Tampa which is about an hour from here to go get those control arms and then get them back to me in a reasonable time.

So I actually might have to do that tomorrow. So rather than disabling the car so I can't move it out of here I think I'm just going to not do those control arms I know I just said I was uh I'm not going to do those today. but I am going to go ahead and pull the stiff cover off today, Uh, we need to do a reseal and a replacement on the fluid inside of this unit. so we're going to pull this cover off, get that fluid changed out, then we can refill with new fluid.

We're just going to do the service on that instead. I'm reluctant to set myself up for a failure and have a car down that I can't service until whenever my parts show up. So I'm just going to handle the things that I have control over right now and then we'll deal with the other stuff later. You see, this is why I prefer heater done to be on the non-plan plan with making a plan.

That way if the plan changes and I had a plan, I can switch to my default of my non- plan plan of not having a plan. that way my plan doesn't get ruined. Does that make sense? No good, it's not supposed to. So what I shall do.

We're going to pull these bolts out I can and drop them down just right in the drain bucket below. they're already covered in Lube anyway, so spilling lubricant on them won't really hurt anything and these are not very tight so I'm going to pull all of these out except for like one or two at the top. That way when we get behind this with a pry bar and crack it Loose from the case, it doesn't just Niagara all the diff oil out at once and splash us cuz that would be bad. Couple more to go.

oh that one's already. uh, starting to leak out some oil. look at that I wonder how that got. wonder if that was Lube that was already in the threads.

Yeah, it leaked out on me. Okay, that's our top bolt. that's the last one. I'm going to leave that one in and we're going to get a pry bar and crack this thing loose right here.

Or maybe maybe I can just use the trim tool here. let's try that. Let's get behind her. if I can get in there.

maybe maybe not going to need something more aggressive I think yeah, this trim tool just doesn't have the beans. Okay, let's try it with the pry bar here. We're going to come in right at this little flat right here. See that little ear sticking off the case? I'm going to come in behind that.

We're just going to drive this uh, this pry bar into or between the uh, the cover and the case. There she she goes I'm using a little Hammer too. Let's try from the other side. probably get better progress with a bigger Hammer here she comes, fry it back, let it drain some, fry it back again and we're open.

Very good now. I'll reach back up grab that top Fastener Oh this oil stinks. That's T up used up degraded is reached the end of its service life. That is the internals of our cover.

Little bit of metal paste in there, nothing abnormal. We don't see any large chunks. that's what we want to avoid is big chunks of metal, but this little that pasted shaving little business right here that's that's fairly acceptable and not cause for concern. Okay, let's take this opportunity to turn one of the wheels here and observe all of the gears inside of this differential case.

What we're looking for is like pitting chunks of metal, missing any kind of damage that uh, we can find visually on any of these gears. which so far all I see is a little bit of dirt and some varnish. I See nothing wrong with the gears inside of this uh, differential carrier. so this is good.

I think this thing's in good shape? Okay, our next relevant observation is going to be all of this uh, gasket material that's on the back of this differential case right here. You guys see all that we need to get rid of that because that is not going to seal very well against a new cover. So what I'm going to do is just blck apart all the larger pieces that I can get a hold of by hand and then we're going to follow up with a Uh scraper. It's a handheld scraping unit, not a paint scraper.

It's got a carbide tip on the end of it here which is hardened and has a very fine flat. Edge And that's going to get behind that gasket material and remove it from the uh, the face of this rear end. So we're just going to go around this whole perimeter, scrape off all this gasket stuff, then we can blow out this carrier, clean the debris out of it, and then prep it for uh, the new sealant, as well as the uh, reinstallation of the cover. Then at that point, we can just refill the fluid and we're good to go get all this stuff peeled off of here.

We going to be here for a little while there. A lot of material. Okay, this is not scraping off very well. So I'm going to switch this out to a power tool and we're going to use a Pneumatic Ziz wheel to peel off this gas material.

That scraper is just not doing it. It does a great job, but this material is just way too thick. Trying again. So here comes my new solution.

We've got a Pneumatic angle grinder with this abrasive wheel on the end of it. These are a 3M I think they're called Scotch Bride or Scotch Locks or Scotch something. but 3M makes these little pads this not Scotch lock. What are they called? What are these guys called below? I forget.

Anyway, we're going to use this thing to Uh to pull off all this gas material. Then we can finish it off with the scraper. Continuing loud noises. There we go.

All right. I Think that'll about do it. Almost Beautiful. Now we got it.

Okay, so the cover is clear, the carrier up top. That's clear. Now we just need to break out some cleaner solution. Get all this nasty stuff out of here and we're nearly prepped and ready to go back together.

Yeah, let's take a closer look inside of this differential here and we can see it's all full of dust and scraping and shavings from all that gasket material. so that's not any good. That stuff will not serve as a quality lubricant. So we're going to need to clean all that stuff out of there.

And how will we do that? You may ask with some cleaner solution. it's actually break clean. Give that a nice spray. We're going to fill this up and hose it out.

Wash it out. Now down below, we have the cover and that's going to sit just below all of our drippings here and that cover is going to get filled up with the runoff out of the can or out of the uh can. I Was going to say pan but pan wasn't right either. Out of the case, it's like case and pan at the same time, so out of the can, it's going to drain out through that little.

Notch Right there it's going to fill up the cover. and then I can just recycle my brake clean down below. That way we're not wasting because waste not want, not right. Let's hose this thing out of here and get it nice and shiny.

Nice and super shiny. All the old fluid, the debris, the dust, the contaminants. nasty. We'll give the gears to spin while we hose them down.

Very nice. top of the diff. Oh no. I'm running out another got backups for my backups Dave's over there like a not this again.

he's throwing brick can clean. Yeah yeah. throw a full one at you. What do you think about that? I'll throw I'll throw a full one at you there buddy.

Do it again long as I don't fall. That one sounds kind of flat when it falls I Don't like that. Let's try it again with the empty one. See what happens? No, that's how it's done.

Okay, now we're back to normal operation here. Let's finish hosing this business out. Pretty sure I got it. We'll let her drain for a while and then down here we can see our pool of brake clean solution.

Let's let that kind of SLO around a little bit break up all that nasty that's in there. Oh no. I missed the the spot. Look at that.

See that. Unacceptable there? Now it's nice and super shiny. Another All right. All right, let's give this just a quick wipe down.

make sure there's no residual gasket material. Nothing like that hanging out. No debris in there. Inside the case is looking clean.

We'll do the same thing with the pan here. We'll give it a wipe down. I'll wipe off that magnet, get rid of all the old metal shavings that are stuck to. that guy looks like it's glued on too.

see that that magnet's glued in there. Normally I would just pop these out and then just, uh, clean them while they're disconnected from the pan or the cover. Rather, this one's uh, that one's glued in so it's not going to come out. So we just got to give it the wipey down treatment.

It should be good. Get rid of all the old metal contaminants that are stuck to it. That's beautiful, nice and shiny, super shiny. So next, I'm going to stuff this towel in here and we're just going to leave that there for a while.

That way it can soak up everything that's on the floor or the bottom piece of this case. That way, we're not mixing brake fluid with uh, brand new, uh, differential oil cuz that stuff is expensive. So we'll get rid of all the brake clean that's stuck stuffed in there. and in the meantime, we can, uh, put some sealant on this cover and prep this cover to go back in.

Yeah, look at all that I'll just leave that there for a while. All righty, let's get some sealant on this cover. What I'll do is I'll take my tube of RTV and put it in this little handle business right here and then I can squeeze the handle and it will disperse my uh, my sealant that way. I don't have to roll this up and squeeze it by hand.

it's easier. So what we're going to do is we're going to put about a quarter in sized bead of sealant around this cup. Just like so nothing crazy. The advantage of this little handle is it lets me keep some consistent pressure on the tube and helps to, uh, make the bead a little bit more uniform.

There we go, Let's do a bit of a reset here. There we go. continuing. Oh, that was a boatload of it.

See it all squish. Out Oopsie I had it moderate. Oopsie. That's fine though.

we'll be okay. Okay, sealant is applied. Let's get this thing back in position. So let us remove our towel taking a look in there.

visually I See no more contaminates or debris. This is good. Now we're in a good spot. We can get our cover raised back up and set up in position here now.

I'm using the Uh the bolt holes as a visual reference. We're going to make contact with the case and and put one bolt in on one side to align it. I'm going to come around to the other side get that second bolt in. So now the cover is located, meaning it's not going to flop around and go anywhere.

Okay, still going to hang on to it. Let's put a little bit of torque on the two Fasteners just to secure this a little better so it can't break away from the case. And and now we can come in and get the rest of the bolts threaded and installed. Then we can apply some torque.

once they're all in. We don't want to put torque on these one at a time cuz there could be an alignment issue that comes out of it and that would be bad. Yeah! I Got our top plate here. Set that thing up.

Three more bolts coming in one front and center at the top, one off to the flank and another on the Left Flank A little bit of torque, little bit, little bit more. Two more bolts to go, and those bolts also came with brackets. Those are the locating brackets for uh, the uh brake cables. There's one bracket, the other one over here on the driver's side bracket.

clicks good. All right. Coming in with our click wrench, let's get all this torque uniform and even cage. These are good clicks too.

Oh, that one's loose. failure. That one's also loose. Looks like my pre-tightening did not do so well that one's clicked.

Three more to go up top. I Think we're good. Small little loose one up in the center. ding fixer.

Done. Think that's all of them. Good to go. All right.

let's hang back for a minute, let this glue set up some or sealant rather and then we can refill this differential from the plug around here on the side. Okay, coming back in with the ratch. Let's get this plug out of here. Oh hey, word of caution.

So I'm not in the habit of doing this because I rarely work on rusted out things. but if you've got a differential plug like this that's super duper rusted and you want to service your diff, make sure you pop that plug out before you pull the cover off cuz there's a chance that this thing can be so rusted out you cannot get a tool on it or get a tool to engage it to break it loose. In which case, you would not be able to refill this differential. And so by by pulling the cover off, you drain out all the fluid and then you can't refill it.

So now you're up a creek with uh, well, with no fluid. That's not okay. Okay does Wheeling in the drive line fluid machine. it's basically just an electric pump with a suction hose on it and I stick my can of gear lube in here and power up the pump and it will pump the fluid through the hose which goes into the hole and that will refill this differential with the proper level of fluid.

So what we need to do here is: UN hose our hose. We'll take the hook and hang that up right there so it can't flop around. Then we will take the business in here Loop that up and around and through after I wipe it off some there, stick that thing down in the hole and now we can pump fresh fluid into this axle, stay plug it in, plug it in. Okay So we've got a jug of 7590 coming in that is the specified weight for this particular axle.

Let's go ahead and pop the seal here. All I need to do. it's an empty one. Swap it out, get the hose in there and then power this unit on and we should be good to go with my switch and we are suctioning.

Let's go back up to the business in here, open up the valve. we should see some fluid Flowage There we go. let it ride I Don't keep this thing fully submerged because if it starts to overflow. I I Want to pull my tube out and shut the valve off ASAP See how much flow we've got going on on here? Oh yeah, whoa.

it's green so you know it's good. That's the signature BG fluid. So if someone ever does a BG service and you manage to take a look at it soon afterwards and it's not green fluid, you didn't get BG fluid. It's still going and looks like we're done There we go.

Got our overflow going, not on the floor, power the pump down looking good. We'll let this drain until it's uh, all set and then when that thing stops draining and begins to drip, that's our fluid level that we can put our plug back in and let her down. In the meantime I Can take my hose assembly out of here, wrap that back up on the machine so it's nice and neat. Like set you up right there, tuck that in, keep that valve closed.

Sometimes not all the time, but sometimes you run across this where the switch was left on and if that valve is open, you can plug this in and it'll start to pump fluid in your face and that would not be okay. Okie does. Our drip dry is complete. Let's get our plug back in this unit here.

we'll apply some tightening torque action to it. Nothing crazy. These threads are tapered and it will not. Uh, think they're tapered but it won't go in all the way so you can't tighten that down till it's flush.

Some do, but this one doesn't. They go in until they stop and then they're good. Shiny? No? well folks. I Am uh losing confidence that these control arms are going to show up today? I Still have not been able to get the parts people on the phone so I know they're going super crazy right now.

So that being said, I am not going to take these control arms off just yet as I mentioned earlier I Don't want to leave this vehicle stranded on my lift and unable to move I'll leave it on the rack but I don't want to disable it because if I need the rack for something, I'll have to let this down and roll it out. So I'm not going to start that particular job yet on this. Uh, 2002 Pontiac Ferrari Firebird Fire Fierro Ferrari bird. Whatever, you know what I meant, you know you know the one.

So anyway, guys, uh, having said all that, I guess I have nothing more to offer you on this particular video other than a thank you for watching this video As always, I Certainly hope you enjoyed this video if in fact, you did enjoy this video. Please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below. Do not forget to tap that like button right on there! and most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day! See you guys later in the video in the day in Pontiac into the Ferrari bird and transmission.