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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to

Hello everybody! Good day to you and welcome back! Glad you guys are here I know I'm super glad to be here. We are returning to Uh a 200 I think it's an 09 Chevrolet Equinox with a 3.6 L We've seen this car before many, many months ago. I Ended up doing a bunch of suspension work on it. It's a 2010, that's what the sticker says.

The mileage inside bear with me folks tells us we are sitting cool at at approximately I can't stall anymore, can't get the number I don't know how many miles it has on it. 100 something thousand maybe now I Got to know. Hang on there it is 171 320 M on the odometer. Uh, like I said, we did some work on this thing before with the suspension.

Uh, it's been here since yesterday. Mr Dave Did some brake service work on it. He put new hoses on there. We did a couple fluid exchanges on it and now it's my turn and what we're going to do today is dig out a leaking water pump that is below this engine mount in front of this engine, behind that frame rail under this airbox.

I Understand that this uh, particular pump has had a very small leak for quite some time and now we're going to go ahead and address that leak. We know it has a small leak because right down here see that right there that orange business that is engine coolant. And if we look up a little bit higher, we can see a little bit of coolant right there underneath that water pump pulley. And there's also a little bit right there to the left of it too.

that little streak right there that's from coolant being flung out from the, uh, the pulley as the pulley is rotating. So what we're going to do is let this thing back down. Dig out all this stuff that's in the way. unbolt that pump and see if we cannot squeeze that thing out.

Now curiously, the book says actually the the labor guide says a couple things on this uh one. Labor Guide was calling for 4 and 1/2 hours. Then the other guide called for 3.2 with add-ons that put it up to 5 1/2 hours. So I'm not really sure uh, how much time this is going to take.

So having said that, I just want to go ahead and dive right into it because I don't want to be here all day under the hood of this 2010 Chevolet Equinox with a 3.6 l. So let's go ahead and get started. I've got a light bar set up. We're going to start pulling all this stuff apart here.

Dig that motor mount out and see what we can do about extracting our water pump unit. So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video uping. Z Hood Look who that guy is. So I'm a believer that the best place to start is right from the beginning.

Lost that? So let's let's go ahead and start pulling these connectors out, hoses and whatnot and we'll get the airbox removed. and uh, we'll see how how far this onion has to be peeled back before we can dig out that water pump. That's not what I meant and you know it. Stop fighting with me.

That's not what I meant she's picking on me I cooked once I didn't say that I was I I said me I cooked once. No, that was an example. I was using that as an example of I cooked and then you made it about you Oh I figured you know since you cooked once before, that's not that you. you are misrepresenting what I said.
That's why I started recording you I have witnesses just say it. Anyway, we got to pull this air boox out now I put things in the microwave I you microwaving. It has nothing to do with what we're talking about though. Nothing at all I think I have to take this apart because it seems to oh oh, you know what? Hang on.

There's there's bolts in the back of this thing. That's that's what we're doing. There's some bolts back there that have us hung up. Hang on.

Yeah, there's a 10 right there. I Thought this was connected with Grommets and it's connected with bolts and gromets. Eror in judgment. See uh.

the life unit distracted me I Was over here thinking about microwaves and cook times and whatnot and I completely forgot to pay attention to my nuts bolts. You know what? I'm talking about these things Anyway, let's dig our airbox out. We can set this unit aside I didn't take it apart, filters inside of it. it's encapsulated all by itself.

You stay right there. and we have a a motor mount now so looks like uh I need a floor jack to support the engine and then we need a 18, 18, some 16s and some more 16s on the side and that's going to take apart this mount bracket assembly business right here. Floor jack rolling. So what we're going to do is we're going to stick this floor jack down under and make contact with with the oil pan and then uh, this will support the engine in Li of that uh, that motor mount that we have to take off There we go drive this thing right on over, run into my stuff, maneuver it around.

uh-oh I'm stuck. Ra four-wheel drive. There we go. Oh I need more shop space? Look at that.

My my Snap-on floor jack thing is in the way. That's a new one. I had to repl the blue one cuz the blue one that we had on the other side of the shop became broken and it almost made us drop a transmission. So I ended up getting a or upgrading it to a higher end professional level.

Center Post Transmission jack also good for fuel tanks and whatnot. Anyway right there is our oil pan. We have contact with the pan looking good. We're not putting a bunch of pressure on it.

so no, I'm not going to break the oil pan. It is aluminum. No. I'm not going to break it.

So now that Jack should have the weight of the engine, we can, uh, start removing these bolts here and get all these mounts and brackets and whatnot out of the way. All right 18 mil on the/ inch coming in. We'll get the Uh. two studs on this front section of the mount.

Crack those loose first. Then we'll get the rest of the Fasteners here. Let me flip this around around. Unclick is: I Don't think this is going to come apart.
Negative, it's not. So we need to get looks like a 15 on these three. Fasteners and that's going to separate the this section of Mount from the engine itself. There's one of them.

Yep, numer do last one, the engine move a little bit. That's the weight transferring fully onto that floor jack. Pull those guys aside and set them up on the wiper CW right there so they don't go anywhere. Pull this unit out and this is our front engine mount gravity.

and upon closer inspection of the rubber, we can see it's not damag so we can reuse this component. uh later on. I Don't put broken engine mount back in. So If it's broke, when I pull it out, you're buying a new one.

So we still have this big uh support bracket bar looking business here and I think that's uh, 18 mil bolts running through that guy. Yeah, so let's get some unclick action here. Get this thing pulled out I think it's just the three Fasteners there's one there flashlight gravitas that's Latin neutral drop. We'll see if it'll break it Loose watch.

Nope, there you go. Oh, you know what? I'm about to catch some re I forgot to uh to park my wedding jewelry here going. put that aside I don't want to, uh, lose a flang cuzz I was violating OSHA standards I'm not being uh sarcastic. You guys are totally right.

I've been wearing that ring at work too many times. I actually almost lost my finger once. you? you guys were totally right about that. 1,000% right? In fact, I'll show you how I did it? Hang on a minute here.

Let's do a little mini story time. We've exposed the uh, serpentine belt. We'll come right back to that in a moment. Well, there was this one time once upon a time at the dealership I was climbing up onto a rack arm like this one that was like about yay high, Stepped on a stool, climbed up, reached into the cabin, turned on the ignition key or whatever, and my hand was up here on the rack.

Now, that particular rack had bolts like this, but the studs were sticking out some and when I went to like Pretend This was like right here. when I went to jump back down, the ring had caught the edge of the stud and I felt it tug on my hand and I was like No And I had like this spasm thing cuz it was stuck and I was on my way down. so I was in the middle of the of the Fall so to speak I was jumping down off the rack and I felt it kind of hang up on the thread. it caught like the last thread of the bolt and had it caught harder.

It could have plucked my finger off and that would not have been okay. So uh yes, I do listen to you guys and yes I do have a silicone uh wedding band and I yes I am concerned about losing my fanges so I'm not going to do that Anyway, here is our water pump. I Got to tell you I don't think this thing's going to call for 3 and 1/2 hours of Labor I Really don't? Uh, let's go ahead. let's get a tool on that belt tensioner right? Yonder down there, that's our tensioner unit.
Let's un tension this belt, get a tool on this thing, pull the belt off, and then we'll walk that pump out of the engine. Now before that belt comes off, there is one thing that needs to happen. You see this water pump here is uh, it's got the pull on it. Gravits again.

why magnets not work when I'm filming? Anyway, the pulley is bolted onto the flange on the pump. If we take the Bell off, then the pulley will be free spinning and we will not be able to pull the bolts out of the pump. So I'm just going to break those loose right now. That way it's easier in the future.

that's a Forward Thinking Behavior right there. Uh, However, on the inverse. Um, it's very easy to forget to tighten those, so it's something that definitely has to be paid attention to and not neglected during the reassembly phase. Anyway, those are now loose, so we're going in with the 1/2 in Ratchet that's going to fit into our tensioner here and allow me to un tension this unit so we're just going to give it a tug.

see that how the tensioner is turning, give it a pull, slip the belt off of uh, one of the smooth based idler pulley, let it relax, sneak our tensioner removal device AKA ratchet back out. Set that aside and now we can just kind of pull this belt up and out of the way. We'll just hang it right here on that hose. Now we can get to the uh, the pulley bolts and pull those guys off.

Those bolts are still a little too tight for hand. Uh, clangy torque. Spin it around some There we go. and now the pulley is coming off.

See that. Pull that guy right on out. So what we can do here? You guys ask me a lot of times. how do I avoid losing all my Fasteners and I just put them back with the part that they go with.

See that Then we can just set this guy right side and now we know that those four bolts go to that uh, that pulley and we have found the source of the leakages. Take a look at all that crusty buildup right here on the side of this pump. see that it might be coming through the wee pole and then spilling out cuz I see some traces of coolant right there on top of that pump. But somewhere along this side, here is where our primary leak is.

Uh, is going to be found. So let's go ahead and get back in there and get this thing disconnected and unbolted. We pull the unit out and get it swapped with a new one. Um, you know what? I'm going to go ahead and actually remove this belt entirely from the vehicle I'd like to avoid spilling coolant on it.

They tend to squeal really bad when you get coolant on them. So we're I'm changing directions here. we're pulling this thing out if I can N I can't squeeze it out of the tensioner I have to take the tensioner off I'm just going to leave it like right here and pull it way out of the way Chang My mind again on the fly. So what I was really trying to say is I would like to avoid getting coolant on the Belt There we go.
That's what I wanted to communicate there. We'll switch to a deeper socket to clear that uh Hub face right there. Oh a What have I done? See that I Uh, it wedged in there. That almost could have been bad.

It's not okay to wedge your socket in and then get it stuck. CU if it wedges in, you can't turn direction and then run it back so you end up very very stuck. Let's see the bottom one. There's one down on the bottom.

Let's learn our lesson and just break that one loose without getting the ratet stuck against the side of the car highways. There we go. It's a Phantom swivel. Let's get that bottom bolt out of there.

We're already starting to leak coolant out of it. See that? Okay, couple more bolts left. Oh I Hear some truck out action outside. We must have some deliveries.

I wonder what it is All right Now we're leaking. We're leaking pretty good here. I Have a drain pan down there by the away so have no fear. And there's our old pump with a crusty looking gasket.

Okay, don't need that. Well hey, this is cool. I Get an opportunity to use my Super scraper. It's got a Tungsten Carbide end on it I Just got this thing uh from the USA tool truck a few weeks ago.

It's a uh I think it's an Astro tool. Yeah, it's an Astro 9532 tungsten carbide scraper. It's just a super sharp and straight hardened Edge and it's designed to run across perfectly on these gasket surfaces and clean away all that debris and nasty and buildup. That way you can have a nice clean surface for ceiling.

Uh, the the catch is is since that is hardened and sharp, you can actually dig into the aluminum and deform it so you have to be very careful. Uh, when using scrapers of this caliber. otherwise you'll you'll break things and that's not okay. Okay I think that's the majority.

ah, gravity. Anyway, I think that's the majority of uh of all the gasking material. However, there is a very very small bits and pieces left over of sealant and and contaminant or whatever. So I'm going to go in there with a Pneumatic little grinder real fast and just polish away.

Um, uh, just the remaining little tidbits that are in there. It's It's not really a grinder or a polisher. it's just like a uh, it's a gasket prep surface type material. Moderately abrasive.

Okay, so here's what we have going on here: I've got a uh Pneumatic. That means it's powered by air pressure. Uh, little polishing wheel. Now these come in a different uh, several different grits.

I think this is like an 80 and then we can also use these little flanged finger polisher types. These are just plastic and these also come in different levels of hardness. Um I could use this one here, but the issue will be is as these things speed up, they will expand and they can run into or it actually changes the shape of it and it'll run into things and make it a little bit more difficult to clean. Uh I may go back through with a second pass in the plastic one.
but first I'm going to hit it with uh, this guy here. very low speed. uh and we're constantly going to keep moving so we don't dig away at the aluminum. We just want to polish off all the contaminants on the surface.

Loud noises? Yeah, it's all good except for that one corner down there. No matter, we'll go in with a with a towel and just do it manually there. That feels good. Looks good too.

We'll wipe all the debris. three out of the coolant passages here. Get rid of that. There we go.

Okay, that's looking good. I Like it. Okay new pump, ready to go in. We can see our impeller mounting flange is nice and super clean.

and then we've got our HB face for the pulley to bolt onto and they have given us with the Uh the pump a new set of bolts, and a new gasket right in here. So let's open this thing up. uh, not violently because we can distort and bend the gasket. It's a metallic gasket and uh, we don't want to ruin that.

So I'll take my new bolts. I We'll set these guys aside, get rid of the fastic, and get this thing set up and installed. So what I will do here is we're going to put two of these Fasteners in. Let me Index this properly real quick.

like I don't know which direction it points. wheat hole pointed up. See that little guy that's in case. Uh, the seel on the back of this starts to leak.

Uh, the coolant can escape and come out. hence the term weep hole. It's for when it's weeping. So we're going to go in this orientation.

What I shall do is put two of the Fasteners in at the top. then we'll slip the gasket over over them and those are going to locate the gasket and keep it in position. See that now we can lower this down and bolt it up to the block. So we take this unit, lower it down, and get those two bolts started.

That's why we started at the top because those are the easiest to reach. See that you try that with a bottom bolt, you might foar it and like kind of like what I'm doing right now. stay I Had to reposition myself here There we go. Two of them are in.

So now the gasket is located. It can't fall out, the pump is located that can't fall out. shoe. let us lower down.

That was a tool. Don't worry about that. Lower down the remainder of these Fasteners and we'll get them all nice and tight. Like the bottom one there.

Yeah, it kind of kills me. This thing was calling for like up to 5 hours of Labor That's redonkulous. That's too much money I mean I Get we have a an inflationary issue right now where our money is devalued and it's worth less than it was before, but doesn't mean we can Bill 5 hours for something like that? That's just not not okay. See, this is a repeat business model and you know you hit him once.

Wham Bam! Thank you Maam. They might not come back and we have a, uh, a need for customers and clients to return. So if you rip them off, they're not going to return And that is not a sustainable business model. We don't want to do that.
that one's too far out. Let's run that in with our flanges here. Well, with my flanges, it's your eyes, Your eyes. My F There we go.

Okay. Torque Ranch time. The uh, the specs on this are two passes at 89 inbs of torque and then 45. after 89 inch pounds of torque, we go 89.

Skip one that was close for that salt move that's 89 Skip One 89 down to the bottom. A finger feel that one that's 89. Click actual clicks one more here. Okay, so that's first pass.

89 ftlb inch lb. Second pass confirms that nothing has relaxed. Yep, Yep. Yep.

that's what the spec says a lot of times. I Skip this stuff and everybody's going re. You didn't torque the thing down. You didn't do it right.

You're fired. You are done. So now we're going to switch out to regular ratchet. We have to add 45 of Bolt rotation to these.

Fasteners So we're starting at a 12:00 3:00 right here is 90. So we're looking for like right about here. at 45 that's actually feeling really tight. but I'll go with it.

So 90s here. 45s pointing like right here. these are torque to yield Fasteners That's the deal. A little bit more on this one.

There we go. There we go. Did I get this one already? Nope. and the one on the bottom? Come on.

now. get down there. 45. All right.

one more. Okay, those guys are all torqued as per the manufacturer specifications. Let's get the pulley down in position here. still have all the Fasteners in it.

We can pull two out because if I don't, they will fall down and get lost. We're going to reference these bolt holes vertically and horizontally. Slide this pulley into position here. Got a lot of Hardware in one small space here.

fellas. hang on Bear with me trying to get a one. The Fastener started. hang on I'm losing it I Dropped one of the Fasteners dropped it, caught it at the same time.

Try this one at a time. Here there we go. Got one. We'll run that down all the way.

like that. Spin her around. Let's get the other two in position here. three other three and then we'll hit that with the Ron ratchet.

Put some torque on those Fasteners and then we can reroute the belt 38 coming in. Send them There we go. Good now. our belt needs to come into position here, but we do have a bunch of coolant still on those pulley.

I Would like to remove said coolant from the pulley so they do not contaminate the belt. Okay, let's uh, prepare our cleaning apparatus for that coolant and then, uh, we go and get started here. So what we need in order to clean this is a punch of some sort. Watch this.

A There we go. Now What I have created here is a long range washing device. Now there's no coolant on the pulley to contaminate anything. Goodbye Coolant.
Oh, watch this. Watch this. Watch this. That's why not.

It's fun. No. Oh God no I Don't know what's in that this? throw a towel at me full of nuts and bolts or something? Is that Okay, All right, let's get this Bell back on right here and then uh, we can starting the engine after that motor mount gets put back together so we'll feed the belt down, get it around the power steering in the back. power steering pulley back there I believe I need to flip this down and under the crank pulley and sorry if I'm working outside of y'all's field of view here.

rather limited spacings. then I'm going to have to pull the belt diagram out cuz I forgot how the rest of this stuff goes. Yeah, um, did I take a bully or something off? How did we do this earlier? I don't recall what have I done? Maybe it goes. Nope.

Okay trying again. Let's scale with what we know. so I know the power steering is already on. This is a ribed on this side so that has to go over top of the water pump and the only place it can go from there is going to have to be over the alternator which is back down over here.

So that means we have to run on the alternator. Here's where here's the error: I'm going around the compressor too soon. That's that's my problem here. Let's get that off the compressor.

We go around the nater and then under that smooth idler. We have to go there. Then after the Ider we go down under the compressor. Then and we where am I making my error at uh oh? Here we go here we go I should not be going under the crank Poley down there we need to go at it from this side which is around from the bottom.

Here here's where that's what we did wrong: I'm figuring this out so we will pull this back off of the alternator to get more. Slack then we have enough space to go back around the crank. There we go. Now we're now we're cooking.

so I just need to hit that with a tensioner. slap that back onto the alternator and we're good here. So coming back in with the ratch I can squeeze it in there. There we go.

really tight tight. Jeez. Come here. click that on.

get on there. so I need to give it a pull and relieve tension and then go around the nature. oh that's tight redo Take It Off The Idler around the nater then The Idler There we go now. I may relieve tension on the tensioner.

pop that guy back out. Belt is now installed. Good to go. That's how she goes.

just like that Okie does. Now that the easy part is done, let's go ahead and start getting uh, engine mounts back down in their positions here and bolted in big One big whatever you call it. bracket the beam, the mount, cylinder head support I Don't know what they call the thing. whatever they call it, it's big.

It's aluminum. It's got three. Fasteners Slide these guys on in There we go. How did I pull those out with the 38 impact right? I Think sock No I didn't I Pulled these out with the the Electron ratchet.
Uh, can't fit back in that hole there? That's not going to happen. Let get rid of that guy and we'll switch it out with our electronical ratchet. and I'll just manually torque that last one. pckage a little bit more.

There we go. That sounds good and the other piece of the mount. we drop that down directly in its position right here. This is where you can kind of get caught up on something like this.

What we don't want to do is tighten down these two studs and nuts here because if there's any misalignment going on. which there is because the engine had sunk down slightly when I pulled these three bolts out. So what we want to do is get these bolts started first cuz we don't have to worry about alignment here because we have studs that are holding on to this section. But we've got to get these guys started and threaded and then tight.

Then we can put torque on the uh, the other two down below. which let's go ahead and put those big nuts in right now. Yep, see how that pulled the engine up slightly? If this was tight and stationary, you might have a hard time doing that and you may not even be able to get the threads to line up. Stole my socket.

Look at that. I think we're good. Click Now we can do those two larger ones down below. Secure this guy right here.

Uh, that's not fitting. Rotate last one. Click Nice and tight. like.

All right, we're done with that half in now. I think I Do believe it is airbox time, Fetch that guy from the floor right off still has the two bolts in it. There's The Grommet that Grommet is going to fit in that hole right there. So we just maneuver this unit right in.

Plug that Grommet in. like. so see that, go in. Now over here, plug the throttle body in in, get that into place, and then we've got the two 10 ms.

Oh look what? I've done. Yeah, that could have been extra bad because if you tighten down the Fasteners and smash the connectors, you can break them and that would, uh, make for a very bad day. Either way, we've got the we have those connectors out now. so let's get get those guys tightened down that will secure the airbox, set you aside.

Let's get this guy all plugged back in. That's a click. Uno M That one, oh that one had a like a doll click but it was there. Let's put our Uh PCV hose back on and of course the clamp for the throttle body.

Let's get that guy tight. Come here. clamp, tighten that guy down right there. Good clamp.

Pckage. All right. We're all set. everything's back together.

Let's grab some coolant, restart the engine, fill the coolant up, maybe not even in that order, and then, oh yeah. the floor jack. Get that out of here. Park you over here.

We don't need that. Get that back, and tools are gone. Goodies are gone from up here. Nothing there, Nothing there.
Let's open up our coolant reservoir. that's super tight. Seriously, Why is that so tight? Unclick? Seriously. Come on.

Two-and. operation. No sir, that's not coming out. Need a tool? Okay, well haven't had that in a while.

Uh I choose these ones. These will work Some miniature channel locks. Need more leverage? Look at that. Good.

Okay, we've got a jug. It's about half full. I'm going to fill it full of some of my BG snake oil. fluent.

Uh, the reason I say it's snake oil is: you guys accuse all the rest of my BG products of being snake oil. So the antifreeze must be snake oil too. See the logic there? It's about foolish. Okay, let's go dump this stuff in, fill up that Reservoir bottle, restart the engine, let it come up to Temp Make sure there's no leaks and drips and drains and whatever else is things of that nature.

and then, uh, this particular operation should be complete spillage. Let's try some a unique style of pouring things. There's a fan behind me too see if I can pull this off. Nope.

spilled it everywhere. That's fine. I'll use the water bottle to clean it. Aha, Fill it on up.

Gug gug. Almost full. That's good enough for now. Get rid of that.

Let's head into the cabin. restart this unit. I Wonder if it's a keyed car or a push button car? Let's find out. Oh no, we have a key.

There we go. beginning engine restarting sequence. Now it is alive. All right.

Okay, looking good so far. Let's Take A Look Down Below We'll fetch that flashlight and taking a look, Not seeing any leaks out of the bottom of that pump. Very nice. The belt seems to be running straight and true.

No noises. How's our coolant level situation going over here? Yep, it's slurped up some of bit. okay. Beginning: Second: pouring things Event: Minimal Stillages: It's an art form that took a took a whole gallon.

We need to add some more. All righty. while that thing's coming up to: Temp we can get our engine cover back on. Get rid of that.

Some engines. You can remove the uh, oil fill cap while it's running running. Some it will create a huge vacuum leak and you cannot. This one you can and some of them.

it'll just spew oil out everywhere. This one's good. Okay, cover's back on. Airbox is back on.

Connectors are connected belts on that's running. We have coolant. We have No leaks. Need to let This thing come up the temp and this one is good to go.

So having said all that guys, I'm going to go ahead and close this video out right now I Have nothing more to offer you except putting some wheels back G and cleaning up my mess. Uh, this video has run long enough and I don't want to bore you with the the after effect details. So again and as always, thank you guys for watching this video. Certainly hope you enjoyed this video if you did.
Enjoy this video again and as always, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below. Do not forget to tap that like And subscribe button while you're down there and most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day! See you guys later in the video into Equinox End of water pump end of transmission.

96 thoughts on “Overcharging a customer by the book chevy equinox water pump 3.6l”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Larry says:

    JT disagrees with you on book time. He says don't penalize me for being good.

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars david sanchez says:

    3.6 Chevy engine no thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David Houston says:

    Look good I'm wondering what year did they put the water pump in the engine driven by the timing chain and do they still do this.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Malcolm says:

    89 foot pound sounds a bit odd, however that is what 120 Newton Meters converts to, rounded to the nearest whole number.

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Steven Lemay says:

    I look at this video an I see something it looks too be about 2hr or may be even three hrs that pump probaly .120.00 pump coolant 30.00 silicone 10.00 . labor rate 120.00 190.00 disposal costs coolant ohh let’s not forget the belt 15.00 too 60.00 .so yah 600.00 looks to be fair.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Steven Lemay says:

    I never met a successful person that didn’t get paid for the time he spent on the vehicle .

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mr Blonde says:

    I would rather pay an honest mechanic double than anything to a crook.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David Jax says:

    2010 Equinox did not have a 3.6l. Your working on a 3.0l.

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars DaisySunflower Karen says:

    It depends on skill level how long you take. High skill you take less time but change more.$600 for a water pump job with draing $75 im antifreeze reasonable.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars The moose says:

    Vac and fill is more effective when filling the cooling system

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Slayerrules 70 says:

    Hey Ray. Just giving a pointer on this particular water pump job. Someone else may have said something in the comments. This pump is easily removed from working underneath the vehicle. No need to mess with the motor mount,etc. Can be done in about 30 minutes. Just saying.

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Surge Man says:

    I just did one yesterday on a 2010 Cadillac SRX 3.0.The worst part was the engine mount brace and that tight ass air box! 😂

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Tommy Hubbard says:

    Had the money bring my car down there

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars super20dan says:

    these with the 2.4 are the biggst pile ever made by gm and thats saying a lot

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars yardtard says:

    270 k in kilometres and spending money on a GM vehicle. I had a fair few GM vehicles best I ever did was 325 kilometres. It was a good car but but the other 4 were rubbish .Pray to God literally I can see them collapsing.

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Robert Price says:

    Very very wise statement on repeat customers Sir. A fantastic business Model!

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bernard Keygan says:

    Love these videos, unadulterated straightforward.educational. Great viewing

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Daniel Berto says:

    PrPretty easy job…now the timing chains and guides and phasers with dropping the engine is another story…but do about half dozen a year

  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars GREEK GODS says:

    love it

  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars John Lucier says:

    Well when you talk as much as u do things do cost money. Garages are all alike..anything to make the day go by. Talk and talk..same story. I would never go toy ur place for repairs. Too sure of ur self can get u sued..

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rodney says:

    That's when you take a cut off wheel and cut your socket in haulf😢

  22. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Rodney says:

    I did just did this job and I charged 300

  23. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars William Sawyer says:

    The 2010 came with a 3.0 not a 3.6. They stopped putting the 3.6 in 2009

  24. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars captronrv7 says:

    I think I would have done a pressure test on that coolant system before I loosened any water pump bolts. These Chevys tend to leak from coolant cross-over pipes very near the pump.

  25. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars KenLyns says:

    Torque-to-yield water pump screws? WTF GM?

  26. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mark Taylor says:

    Dont need to torque wrench absolutely everything. When it comes to things like water pumps, head gaskets, and what have you. Its important that surfaceses are prepared, and everything is torqued to manufacturers specifications. Its also important that proper torque sequence is done correctly. I know you did all that my friend. I just like to put that out there for others that may not be aware.

  27. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars fullsendduramax says:

    Only thing i saw is please coming from someone whos put a jack under a oil pan please put a block of wood 2×6 or 4×4 something cause ooohhh something goes wrong rip that oil pan i put a hole in mine not fun good work tho

  28. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars john holmes says:

    Another awesome video

  29. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars jack raintree says:

    How long did it take you compared to "the book" time

  30. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars mike73ng says:

    I’ll never understand why they are able to charge for time they didn’t work. You think an attorney can charge 40 hours if they only put 20 hours on a case?

    If it takes longer for some mechanics then those mechanics will get less and less customers.

  31. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Eric Pfiffner says:

    On mine it looked like the water pump was leaking, but it was actually the water neck oring directly above the pump. Maybe not the case on this one, but it almost fooled me.

  32. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars R Price says:

    So you look up the labor time an it is 3.5 hours an you do it in an hour you should only charge an hour then right. What would you pay you tech then. I get you want to be fair an all but you have a lot of factors that go with charging what the book calls for. Then the tech needs paid an you know if you worked for someone an showed what time is called for in the book you want paid the time. I own a shop an my wife does everything in the office and there are times when i think times are wrong an will knock off some time but what about the jobs when the time is off the other way. I know i have had many jobs over my 45yrs of working on cars, trucks and no way in hell i could do the job in the time the book would read so do charge more? I promise I will never short myself or any of my guys. Thanks for sharing

  33. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars BlockHead365 says:

    Supper77 the gasket on. Then it will hold it on and won't move.

  34. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars BlockHead365 says:

    I don't wear my ring because it bends.

  35. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars EverythingIsAHammer says:

    Anytime I have a tight cap I cannot remove with normal human strength, I recommend yelling “BY THE POWER IF GREYSKULL!!” while turning It.

  36. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Carlitosway says:

    Funny how all the comments are of people sucking your ass over you charging less than book time while I can guarantee those same people would be telling you, you suck as a mechanic if you take longer than the book and should only be paid book time.

  37. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Stove Guy says:

    AND 3.6 timing chain will fail soon and ruin motor. 3.6 is TRASH

  38. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Robert matheny says:

    When you were complete with the job, my mechanic, was still trying to figure out how to open the hood didn’t know about the lever inside the car.
    And with your camera in one hand, you’re an inspiration to all of the one armed mechanics in this world

  39. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Frankenstein Fabrications says:

    Hey I love your videos but I CAN NOT STAND ( I CANT EMPHASIZE THAT ENOUGH ) MECHANIC WORK LOL with that being said would you happen to have a 2007 to 2009 chevy duramax diesel water pump coming up ??

  40. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Joe Marvino says:

    Oh yeah just suport the engine by the aluminum oil pan with a floor jack thats pretty smart. Too busy speaking in some stupid accent and making strange remarks.

  41. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Joe Marvino says:

    Ray whats with all the stuuuupid accents you speak with? I know 5 year olds that arent that bad.

  42. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Harriett Anthony says:

    GAWD! The automakers have truly befouled the I.C.E. engines. If you open the hood of say, a 1965 Chevy Impala, one look, the water pump,, then some bolts, hoses, new pump and reverse. This Chevy is a mechanized Rubicks Cube. Now pardon me while I go out and hug my EV! I have none of this to deal with-ever!

  43. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Joan Stehlik says:

    I always pressure test the system before full assembly. Been burned by defective "NEW' pumps.🤔