Smoking there fixed it. Hello viewers, Good day to you and welcome back! Glad you guys are here. We are returning to the Part Two of this 3.6 L Penar V6 which is located in a 2017 Chrysler I Think this thing's a Pacifica front-wheel drive version, not rear wheel drive. Uh I don't have the mileage right now cuz the key is off and I'm not going to key it back on with everything disconnected.

so uh, we're just going to have to wait till the end to see what the mileage is. Anyway, we left off in the last video. this is a Part Two video. Uh, you can see the description or the pined comment.

Uh, for the part one or this link right up here in the upper right hand corner and it'll take you back to the first version of this, uh, this particular repair if you happen to have missed it. Anyway, we left off because I had ordered a replacement engine oil cooler assembly which is located down inside of this engine. Valley Uh, right down here, underneath of that ginormous intake manifold system that's going on over there on the floor. We had earlier discussed the quality of the Plastics that were used in the construction of this extremely critical engine component.

we can see here. this is Uh, this is I think it's nylon, impregnated, uh, reinforced plastic and these things are known leakers from what we have gathered so far in this particular vehicle. This right here is the second time that this unit has been replaced. Uh, we've got the oil filter housing here.

We've got the cooler, fin, radiator type device unit here. and then you've got the plastic base plate. And this right here at the gaskets is where these failures will occur. So it's clearly observable that these rubber gaskets will compress over time.

Uh, that's part of the issue. and that's that's something that's unavoidable. But the issue? The real problem is. Uh, for example, if we take a look right here at this gasket, we can see how it's deformed slightly.

See right there on the side. the right hand side, it kind of bulges out. Uh, what happens here is these: Plastics will deform and it allows those gaskets to deform slightly. And then we end up with a coolant sline oil slurry that mixes and pulls up inside of the engine.

Valley right there. if we look a little closer. Even though I've clean this off, we can see where the water line was on this unit. So what'll happen is this thing will leak.

It'll fill this whole up full of oil and coolant. It'll take out the noock sensors, it'll take out this hose, It'll get inside of the wiring harness, and ultimately if left unchecked, you'll run out of engine oil. or run out of engine coolant. and then the thing overheats and then leaves you on a tow truck.

And that's not good. Now, the problem was and the reason we didn't finish this all in one get-go is: I Had ordered an upgraded and updated component that's designed to prevent this exact failure from reoccurring and reoccurring and reoccurring. However, when I unbox the unit I found out on the other this is the new one. but I found out on the one we had ordered previously that somebody had packaged the defective style component inside of the upgraded style box and then sold that box for a premium.

So I had to go back to the part store, get a new component and uh, now we are ready fresh on the next day, ready to get going and get this thing back together. So I had selected. It's actually a dorant part that Uh supplies the fix for this, but it's Dorant. Part Number 926 959 This is the updated component which is the all aluminum base plate again with its aluminum cooler assembly.

Came with gaskets, came with new hardware, came with a new engine oil filter. came with that little plug right there we're going to need that came with a desiccate pack. Put these things inside of your toolbox or inside of your safe. They will absorb moisture and prevent corrosion.

Just throw that guy right in there. Those things are also fantastic to go inside of ammo boxes anyways. let's uh, let's get get everything unboxed here and laid out and make sure we've got uh, everything that we need to proceed need to proceed. I rhymed and I think there's a slight transfer over of components uh from this old unit I think we just have to switch out the uh, this uh temperature sensor right here and we're good to go.

So let me get all this stuff unwrapped and we're going to go ahead and get this component installed on that truck. We'll get this thing back together and back out on the rowad. So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video. All righty.

So we're back. I've got everything on package to save us a little bit of time, a quick moment of Shameless self-promotion and I'm asking a favor from you guys if you would please check to see if you are in fact subscribed to the channel if you thought you were YouTube is doing its unsubscribe thing again and longtime viewers have found that they are not receiving notifications or they're no longer even subscribed to the channel. Uh, That being said, the part two of this is if you happen to know somebody with a 3.6 l in a Jeep Chrysler Volkswagen and uh, who else made this uh uh, made this little conglomeration mostly Jeep Chrysler and Volkswagen if you know some oh Ram yeah, there's Ram If you know anybody with this engine, share this video with them because they may need to know about this component. This has not widely been accepted bu the shops yet because this one does cost more than that one.

But the issue is is this is so failure prone that throughout the life of the vehicle, the owners of these are going to have to replace these two three, maybe even four times before they finally get rid of it out of frustration. So this is the problem solver for this: Achilles Heel on this engine. There's millions of them out there. So if you know someone with this engine and care about their livelihood and their financial uh situation, please send them this video so that they know that there is a fix for this and it's not the end of the world and that will conclude my moment of Shameless self-promotion Now let's go ahead and get started.

I Mentioned earlier, we have to conduct a transfer of components and it's probably just going to be this temperature sensor over here. So let's go ahead and pull this guy out real quick. like, and uh, get it installed on our new unit. Okay, so we're going to take a one in what 16inch wrench and kind of get this in a position where I can put some torque on it? That'll do.

Let's get this thing removed here. Uh okay. I Thought I was good at my job and I'm getting my butt kicked by a sensor. Seriously turned and then it no longer turned.

There we go. Got it. Turn it more? So what? I want to do? Get this thing swapped over and then we'll put the cooler on the M manifold. Get it gasketed up, and we can drop that back down inside of our engine compartment.

You know I should probably know what I'm talking about before I start talking I Found engine oil inside of this, which tells me this is probably the oil pressure sender. uh, not a coolant temp sensor. So um, don't re out on me I just went off of an assumption and you know what assumptions do they make an assumer out of you and me? So I have made myself into an assum ER but I believe since I corrected the record. uh I can get away with this.

So in my reestimated opinion, my light is dying. This is a uh, oil pressure sender, not coolant. So anyway, let's get this thing screwed down and snugged up. I did throw a little bit of Teflon tape on those threads because it had that red sealant and that red sealant is no longer present.

And I know you're going to say Teflon tape's not a sealant and you're right. kind of. but it's better than uh, sticking it in there dry. Now on things like sensors, they tend to have a tapered set of threads on some.

This one did not appear so, but that does not mean we tighten this down all the way. We just get it run up until we're confident that a seal is going to be made and that it's not going to back its way out and or leak and that's where it's going to live. So I'm going to give a another 90 out of this. So the clip side is facing up for the sensor and we're should be good right there.

Non click. Okay, quick battery change on the flashlight. We're good to go. Let's go ahead and get the cooler section installed on top of the manifold.

so we're going to break out some new hardware here. There are our Fasteners I believe these are Torx 30s is what they're going to be. We need those and we're going to need the gaskets here here here and here. These are the ones shapes and colors.

We just fit those guys right down inside of those. uh, the little holes there. make sure there's no debris and packing material inside of this cooler. See in there you could get like a little styrofoam packing material inside of it and uh, that would cause contamination which would not be good.

Okay Torx 30 coming into place here and I'm going to give these a little bit of Loctite because this thing should never, ever ever have to be removed ever again ever so. I See no harm in sticking some locktite on it again. It houses engine oil and it's a critical component so we don't want to mess around and run the risk of having this come apart. the aluminum.

Whoa. I'm dropping stuff. Okay, let's run these down just a we a little bit. We're looking for 4.6 milliseconds of torquing.

Let's go ahead and get the remainder in there there. Drop some in the hole. We'll do that. That works too.

I Liked my first. Way better there. too much. It's fine.

Okay, our Cooler's tight. Let's apply a couple more milliseconds of torque. Click. Very good.

So now we should be preparing the bottom gasket surfaces. So we've got a couple regular gaskets here. and then we have this o-ring The O-ring is going to go around this little nipple right there and that's going to fit down into a re recess in the block. So I'm going to give that just a wee bit of dialectric.

So when we send it on its way down, it's lubricated and this one is empty. Oh no. Another couldn't out myself. Ah, that was too much.

oops. didn't mean to do that. Oh, this isn't working out anyway. a little bit of little bit of lubricant on that O-ring There we go.

go. that way, it can slide down inside of, uh, its hole very easily without uh, binding up. and then the remainder of these gaskets. They just fit into their grooves here, shapes and colors to stick it where it fits.

Don't Force It If it doesn't fit, it doesn't fit. Those are the rules and no lubrication necessary on the rest of these because they're going to sandwich flat against the block surface. So we saw earlier that there's this little plug thing right here that is a blank that is, uh, supposed to go right there inside of that hole. So let's get that thing filled up next.

If we compare it to the old unit, there is nothing in that hole. So let's go ahead and plug this guy off. We'll tighten her down. Uh, looks like a Torx uh or a It's an M8 Maybe an eight or a 10 I Don't know.

my acometer is not working today. We're going to find out. I said M8 It's an H8 that is. The Design Nation is A it's a hex bit an Allen key of sorts.

Just go ahead and uh, take this guy and tighten her down. It should be sealing all by itself due to that, uh, little bit of red business on there. It's not a sealant, it's a lubricant. I mean maybe might be a sealant click? Okay, that one's good.

So now while we're here, we can go ahead and and get the oil filter down in position. So I'll just Lube the O-rings ever so slightly and I'm missing the O-ring on the oil cap. I Have to install that as well. Some assembly is required.

Make sure this goes in the correct Groove it's not in the right Groove You might be in for an issue or a pro. This is coming out way too fast. Need to work on that. The expulsion of the lubricant is slightly premature like that guy in and we'll go ahead and screw it down.

Now, what we're not going to do is torque the beesus out of this because the tightness of this cap has nothing to do with with its ability to seal against the housing. That's all taken care of by the O-ring that applies to everything with an O-ring All caps with O-rings do not impact these things on it. Even says torque to 25 Newton M that is the torque specification. Hey, you know what? Just for fun, let's just actually torque this.

I Don't see why not? My wrench was out and I have the adapter and I have a socket. Let's just apply actual Clips to an filter cap. There we go. It's tight.

Look at that. See nothing. Okay, enough screwing around. This thing's all prepped up.

Let's go ahead and get it over to our engine and get this thing set back down into its home. and uh, begin the reassembly process. Okay, filter assembly, you're coming with me now. We already took a look down inside of this uh this Valley here and I know it doesn't look like it, but I have made an effort to clean this out I did some wiping I cleaned off the ceiling surfaces.

Uh, the issue is I don't want to go super aggressive on it because there are oil return ports in here. and if I start filling this thing up full of water and brushing and turning up all that slurry and whatnot. uh, there's potential that I can contaminate the clean side of the engine oil system and that will ultimately smoke the bearings in this thing. So uh, rather than risking blowing up engine parts cuz we've seen that before on these 3 sixes as well.

Um I cleaned it up as leas invasively as I could, there's no more stuff pulling up. Um I know it looks ugly, but that's as clean as it's going to get. Yeah, there appears to be uh, many many new viewers to the content lately and they're assuming that everything I do is wrong. That's how I know that there's new people around cuz I catch a lot of extra re and they get angry with me because I didn't do do it the way they wanted to do it and Truth told everybody does things a little bit differently.

That's just how it is. You know some people might spend an hour cleaning that out. They'll cap it off and go in there with uh, toothbrushes and some Q-tips Some people won't even clean it out at all. they'll just put the new cooler back on with a Uh with a bunch of oil pulled up in there.

But but that's not me. I'm not going to do that. Not my style now. One thing I Just noticed that thing bottomed out.

This tells me I don't have this cooler seated down all the way. Give it a kind of a wiggle here. Still isn't Going Hammer Time We Shall Uh lightly. Mallet this unit down.

Hm. Well, I think that's it. Why are my Fastener is not engaging? What? this problem? Yeah, that thing's not. That's that O-ring we were talking about earlier.

It's not seating inside of the groove. May If I pull it a little straighter, it was kind of at an angle. Perhaps That was it? Okay, Yep. now these Fasteners are uh, contacting the bottom F And then there's one way out back there we go.

Drop that one down this, begin to try some torque here. see how it's rocking. it's still is not seated fully. We'll get there.

we're still compressing the O-rings There we go. Okay, so now these guys are all bottomed out. This thing is fully seated. I'm going to back off all these Fasteners and then torque them to specified specifications.

Look, see it come up. Those were those O-rings expanding again. There we go and we are looking for 106 in lb of torque. I Know I'll make this easy easier on myself and use a a longer extension that way.

I've got some good swing on it. Now that that's out of the way, let's get our coolant bypass hose stuck back onto this cooler squeeze. That's a real tight squeeze down in there. That's good.

Now we'll get the connector reconnected. Slide that guy over the Uh sensor. Good to go. Okay, let's get back on cleanup.

Duty Here we'll blow these bolt holes out. Make sure there's no fluid in them or dirt or sealant missed one. Okay, that's good. Let's get some cleaning oil solution here.

It's just penetrating oil, but oil is a great cleaner so we'll get some oil on this gasket face. kind of wipe that down some. We knock off all the uh stuff that could cause a leak. bunch of carbon build up here.

I All right, Nice and Shiny is so now let's go ahead and kind of work on cleaning out these valves a little bit because there was some debris or intake. Runners Rather, there was some debris that made its way down inside of those holes and cleaning those out. It's real simple. Stick an air nozzle in there, blow it out, and now the debris is gone.

Moving on. Okay, that's back side. same procedure on the front side here. Beautiful, Nice and Shiny is not really cuz that's all carboned up intake.

Runners But there's no dirt and debris floating around inside of there so we're good to go. We are now progressing quite nicely. Got the lower intake manifold coming into position. see all the bolts are still in the manifold.

They do not come out very easily. I've got new gaskets on the bottom side and on the top side. so let's uh, get this thing down into its home and we'll start getting some fashioners fing all right Home stretch time I'm going to go ahead and run these down with some speed. Just get everybody nice and started here.

This is that one that was super tight when we started. I think the threads are a little boogered up on that one. they didn't look like it. but I think they are okay.

All right, we're looking for 80 inbs on the clicky wrench. Let's get these guys torqued to specified specifications here now. Unfortunately, this one here I think we're going to have to go that one. Not this one.

We're going to have to go past 80 in pounds because there's a lot of friction on those threads and if we just let it click at the 80 inch pound. Mark I don't think that it's going to be uh, tighten down all the way and I can I can feel that friction right here. So I'm going to do like 80 in PBS plus like an eighth of a turn or whatever I can feel it. not so much uh, seeing it or hearing it and clicking on it.

but I think I'll be able to feel it. so there's our 80. let's compare. look at how that one turned also a little bit more.

I'm going to do two passes on this. How about that? Feels good so that one might be slightly over torqued. Um, I'll live with it and it might be slightly under torqued, but again, due to that friction we do not know and we never will know. Oh I missed one one I Missed a fener this one right here Somebody commented uh on a video they were asking, uh, why do I call them Fasteners when they are in fact nuts and bolts and that is because nuts and bolts are in fact Fasteners So all nuts and bolts are a Fastener but not all Fasteners are nuts and bolts.

but if you just call them all Fasteners then you are correct because they are and they fasten what they do. Second pass: Got one over here on the left. Sweet! that one's all set and now we can go ahead and start getting some wiring harness. Uh, back in position here.

I'll start with the fuel injector connectors. cylinder 5 cylinder, 3 cylinder Numero Uno and little red Tabs are down. Now we need to put this injector harness rail assembly here back inside of its little tabs that secure it like so and then the coil wires are coming in next. Lock that one in, lock that one in.

It's good. Get that guy little sensor connector right here. and then there's a couple sensors that I disconnected on the front of the head or front of the valve cover. Rather, those guys in good good good.

Everybody's looking good in the neighborhood. Let's do the front. Bank Next, Same procedure injector connectors that's number six, number four and at No Do I put plugs and wires or plugs and coils in this when you guys weren't looking, see the shiny good little add-on to do while the intake is off and I took out some Champion spark plugs too. These are gross.

look at that. Champions Pretty worn out too. They've been there for a while. There we go.

It's all good in the neighborhood. How about the fuel line? Let's get that fuel line back in and our little blue locking clip. Excellent. Do we remember that PCV hose fitting thing that I broke off? uh on the first video on on the tear down phase.

it's that guy right there I broke it off. didn't mean to but it happened I uh I saved a lot of the old parts from the last one of these that I worked on that blew up and we put an engine in it and I happen to have that exact same PCV valve. so I looked out on that one. I'll just install some used parts here and not have to worry about it.

Put that guy in, pull, pull it back, lock it in. It's like it never happened. Woohoo! So next up we have the upper intake manifold coming in. It does not get new gaskets on it because those are already in place over here on the lower.

So what we do, just bring it right on in, align aligning the bolt holes. That one's good, that one's good and this thing is now located in its correct position. Let's get all these sort of started by hand. That way we know they're not going in sideways.

Drop that one down there. another one off to the right right here. good and we'll use the electron ratchet slowly. run these down that way I can feel them that wasn't slow, not all the way down.

just partially because I need some Flex in order to line up the bolts on the front brackets over here and I choose to do that right now that way they're in. think I got it. Yep, there's one I Need one here for uh, this coolant line bracket I Know you guys can't see. you know how it is.

A lot of the stuff is is done by feelings, not by by seeing uh another one. I think it's right here in the front of that bracket. Yep, okay, that guy started. thought I had a another one somewhere.

Yeah, I do I do right next to it, there's another hole that's that one goes also into this. uh, this intake. So I need to figure out where I left my low profile ratchet There it is. That's what I need.

Flip that back around to tightening sequence. Go in here and get these guys snugged down. Actually negative, negative, negative I need to get these units tightened down first. These are where the seals are, but you have to get these in first or before you tighten these because if you tighten these, it can actually get this thing a little off center or at a different angle and then you won't be able to line up the holes on the bolts in the front and that's how bracket get.

Uh, left disconnected. We just don't want to do that. talk too much. There we go.

and I think we're looking for 89 inbs on these. Fasteners here. Hm Torque Wrench What do I do with my torque wrench? There's my eight. Ah, there it is.

All right. Found you hidden right in front of me. Okay, 89 INB So let's go ahead and adjust this up. I'm going to do 90 just to cuz I want to couldn't hurt uhoh I've gone too far.

Let's just back them off and then tighten them up. You know some would say you're not supposed to operate a torque wrench in uh, in reverse and I've always been told that, but you'll notice that these are adjustable so or reversible rather. So what do you guys think? Should you use a torque wrench in Reverse or only going forward? Or does it not matter? Or does it matter with the style of torque wrench that you're using? that could be a factor. For example, there's a a beam torque wrench versus the spring-loaded tor crunches.

Here we go look at this classic example of why a torque wrench is not always the exact perfect correct tool. So we're at spec here, right? 89. We saw that click. But look, this thing is not seated all the way.

See that. Which means 89 is not putting any clamping force on this. uh, on this intake. How about that? So I'm going to do it by feel rather than by clicks.

Had I relied solely on just that torque wrench. This Fastener especially Would Uh have almost no clamping? Force There we go. So we're going to up the torque a little bit. now.

Why is that you may ask? And that is because these fasteners are. They're kind of like a wood screw. They're actually running down into the plastic on that lower manifold. And because of that, they're not threaded like you would typically find on a uh, a traditional bolt.

And look here. Perfect example. You see how those are coarse grade type of threads and then you've got for your nut. On this side, a very fine grade thread.

Well, what's happening inside of the female end? The plastic on this particular style is a lot of inconsistencies in those threads. There's little shavings that come off. or maybe it was double threaded one time. Like cross-threaded Uh, there's a multitude of of variables that do not go accounted for when the original torque spec is written up.

There we go. And since this is the third or fourth time this has been apart, you really don't know. So sometimes the proper tool is not exact. The proper tool and that bolt right there, in my opinion, proved it.

Okay, now we can get to these 10 mil bolts up here in the front because we know that this Uh manifold is now sealing how it's supposed to against the lower manifold. Get some speed in there. More horsepowers. Click.

That's two. Got two more behind our dipping stick here. Just go and spin those down with my Fres. Those are fingers for the new people here.

and I hope to see some new people here. I Like it when new people come in. It's good. It's like we get to start the whole party all over again.

That's tight. That it's not tight. Change our angle here of the ratchet. click.

All right. Now we have more Plumbing to connect. Let's get Uh got a fuel? no that's a vacuum line going back to somewhere. but I know it goes here.

Put that guy on. lock it in. That's good. It's going to clip into the back of the manifold in two places that will secure it.

This is good. and what are we lacking here? Got some wires? Got a pump motor thing but I need to get down in that hole and get this, uh, little bracket set up. Now this bracket was a bear to dig out of there and it took a lot of video time on the first video of this. uh, this repair.

So we're just going to skip that part. go into commercial break. Don't go anywhere. Uh, I'm going to put this on.

Then we're going to continue with the Uh the easy to view reassembly. Okay, does we got through it? EGR is back on, clamps are back on, studs are back on the wiring harness. y'all are upside down. wiring harness is all back on and secured and connected properly.

Now we may move on to the stuff. that's uh, more agreeable to the eyeballs. one of which will be our PCV hose. Uh, there's the broken end so we know that that side goes in that hole over there.

Let me get this thing extracted here. Let's see. I need pliers? Where's me? Pliers? Pliers. Pliers.

There's me pliers righta? So what? I Must do. We'll use the angular ones. Scratch my paint. There we go.

Okay, got it out. So now we're going to go ahead and get this thing back into its home. And I've learned that this side gets disconnected last and this side goes first and it still doesn't want to go there. Little locking tab to go in there.

Kind of overkill for a PCV hose, but what else am I going to do with them? Throw them away? I Think not. there's that one. This one is impossible. Not putting that back on.

Look at it. It comes up from the bottom. Yeah, no. that one.

I'll put that one on the uh uh. the EVAP filter. Where is it this one? Yeah. I'll put that on this.

Speaking of which, let's get this thing set up and connected and in position as well. There's the port for the vacuum, that's the bracket, and there should be a wiring connector for it around here somewhere too. I Think this is it. Yep, that's the connector.

Couple grommets to secure the unit. Push those down. That's good. This hose clips into that little bracket right there.

that then this one connects here. which is where I will put that locking tab. That's what we're looking for. Uh-oh failure, Wire routing problem.

There's a little Mount thing here for it and that goes into that hole right there there. Nice. Okay, this thing is going to clip on right here. That's good.

Now we just need to get the uh, the airbox set up next. This should go in Fairly easily. We've got one Grommet one bolt and then just have a rubber like seal for the throttle body area. So we'll get the throttle body in first, wiggle it and on the back side.

I Got to figure out where that uh Romet goes I Got it? Give it a push down that's in position. There is our Fastener Bolt click I Couldn't help myself. So on the back side we got one more wire and that's going to go to this intake temperature sensor which is located right there. Getting a little dark in here, but that's where she goes plugged in.

That's good right there. We're in the home stretch. Now We've got a freshly cleaned out million mile K&N air filter. Drop that guy back into its home.

Right here. We'll get the airbox lid back in position. We've got some tabs here that fit into the grooves. Over Yonder Of course, the uh, the clamp and the hose which that's probably going to have to go on first.

Slide that on there. get in there box. We've got two more of those nice coarsely threaded Fasteners here. get in there box.

What are we doing? We're off center night is n seriously, what are we doing? My box is not. uh, aligning properly WTF What's going on here? It's like off, what have I done? Yeah, we're not even. well. we were in the home stretch until this uh decided to not fit.

Why are we? Twisted What's this? What's this problem? I Was all excited to nearly be finished. It must not be seating properly. We'll shove that hose in a little deeper Right this? The people? Oh oh oh I See what's happened here? This little lip was getting caught on the inside of that air box. The bottom section I have a misalignment so I'll push it in, then get the little tabs in and now we're doing the same thing on the right hand side: I Think the bottom section of this box is bulging out.

That's what's uh, what's going on here? Try that. There we go. Got it. Now it's spitting back on schedule.

So two more 8 mm Fasteners tripping at the Finish Line clicks twice clicks Thrice Clicks good And got our little uh, cold air scoop here. Slide that guy in two grommets here and here that secure it to the radiator core. Support: Push those guys down. Let's get the rest of the tools off of the firewall and we will get the engine cover in position here.

This guy is also secured with some pegs and grommets and it's supposed to have two fasteners when I took it apart I only found one. so I see if I can't locate a replacement for that hole right there. Survey says I found an M6 threaded 10 mm headed Fastener Oh that's cool. Check it out.

The one that I used one that I found. it's got a Torx insert on the inside 10 mm. it's it. actually might be a penar piece.

Look at that same less dirt. they don't match and that's pretty gross. So let's clean that thing up that didn't work but so oh well. at least Shin shiny.

So what we need to do next? I'm going to run this thing up in the air. Spill the engine oil out of it, refill it. We already have a new filter in position right here. It calls for uh 20 weight oil so we're going to give this some good old AMS oil and then uh, we'll hit the key, restart this engine, check for leaks and hopefully we're good to go.

We can ship this thing today. Okay, down on the ground again, the oil has been removed. Let's grab our new engine oil here. Uh, let's see can of a additive that's going in there.

and we got a couple jugs of five Winter 20 fully synthesized M oil motor oil. And by the way, I don't gatekeep these things. Uh, as you guys know, since I do sell M Oil I have enlisted to be an AMS Oil Dealer Meaning I get to buy this stuff at wholesale and because I get to buy the stuff at wholesale I have listed my dealer link on my video descriptions. That way you guys can enjoy AMS oil in your vehicle if you so choose.

So if you uh don't want to try to hunt it down from the the part stores that don't sell it or the retail stores that don't really sell it, uh, go to my videos description below this video and you'll find an AMS oil link down there. Uh, you can use my link uh to purchase your own AMS oil and uh, full disclosure since I am an Amsoil Dealer if you buy your product from my link uh I will get a small commission off of that product and that will end my second moment of Shameless Self-promotion Uh, if you guys are up for a third moment of Shameless self-promotion Uh, while you're down in this video's description, uh, check out the link to Rainman Rais Repairs.com and that can take you to my custom merchandise store where you can purchase one of my oh I'm about to add oil spill Mets to the list of things that I sell. I Was going to try to sell you one of my hats or a t-shirt or some stickers or something like that, but instead I might just rethink my life because I can't do seven things at once? Come on, What have I done? I made a mess out of my nice and shiny. Someone's going to yell at me for not being professional.

Well, if you weren't too busy trying to sell us a bunch of crap, then uh, you wouldn't have spilled that. Put down the camera and deal with your customers. No matter what you do, you can't. You just can't win, you know? I Try to I try to see the needs in the market for people and being in a position to be able to fulfill those needs like clothing and engine oil.

I I Try to help people out with that by offering recommendations and even producing premium, top tier quality product. And then folks still get mad at me I think they hate us cuz they ain't us. That's what it is. Remember that movie The Interview? Uh thing about North Korea Or whatever, they hate us cuz they ain't us.

Look contaminants, Get rid of that. Give it a little wipey down just in case there's unnoticed contaminants there. Okay anyway, Six quarts 5 Winter 20 M Oil Coming in glug glug. Now again, we don't have to put a filter on this because it already has one because that came with the Uh oil cooler assembly.

Oh, and by the way, if you buy this by the gallon as opposed to the court, uh, it's still cheaper. If you buy it by the 5 gallon or the 2 and 1/2 gallon, it's even more cheaper. And if you really need a lot of oil, you buy it by the 55 gallon drum and then it's super cheap. But I Don't think anybody here needs 55 gallons of Uh engine oil so that one might be a bit of a bit of a stretch.

See, look at that. High quality premium products. Even the foil on the top of the jug is robust and strong. strong foil.

There we go, let account for what I spilled. Let's do a preliminary dipstick check to make sure this is, uh, either five quarts or six quarts. Let's see what we have on our dipping stick here. Yeah, right there.

Halfway down the hatchmark. not quite full yet, but I do have some space to add some uh fortifying. MOA that's motor oil additive. Ow, it makes the good stuff even better.

Dump that in there. Goodbye. Another half a quart of oil makes the medicine go down. There we go.

And I've also got to add some coolant because we did spill and use up some coolant. Uh, Another moment of full disclosure: My coolant is a universal gold color and folks have noticed that I've mixed it with things like uh, the Dex Cool red and I'm here to tell you that the coolant that I have is compatible with the red which goes into the Chryslers and the GMS and various other manufacturers. It is compatible. Uh, just because it is not the same color does not mean it's not uh up to par for the task.

And it also does not mean that it will not mix well. Uh, with the current red colored coolant that is happens to be in the engine. See, The thing is, everybody gets really fixated on color and it's not what it looks like on the outside. it's the quality of what's on the inside that really matters.

And just in case you're wondering, that wasn't about coolant. Uhoh cancelled sh see. look for example: I have Primo highquality BG engine coolant inside of the run-of-the-mill press Stone Oh look, it even says all vehicles the pressone bottle. So how can one decide that the interior is irrelevant based on what the exterior looks like? Uhhuh, that'll cook your doodle.

Think about that for a second. now. Look, it's still red. Look at that, see that everything's fine.

So let's get our funnel out of here. for now. put that over there. Let's get our cap back in position here and let's go back into the cabin and restarting the engine.

Make sure we don't have any codes and uh, top these fluids off and this thing should be good to go. Beginning engine starting sequence now. Woohoo! She is alive! Good to go coolant burbling there. Let's grab some lights and look down in the valley.

Make sure that there's no coolant or oil leaking out at our repair. I See I Don't expect to see anything down here, which there's nothing leaking out down here so we don't have a major malfunction. Let's check for some seepages and this thing is, uh, ready to go back out on the row. Okay Illuminator Coming in, looking down in the hole there I Do not see coolant or oil pulling up in the valley.

that tells me that this repair is good to go. No leaks are present. This operation has been a success. We're ready to rock and roll I Need to shut her down.

Recheck engine oil level, set the time higher pressure. I've got to clear those trouble codes out for the EVAP system. Uh, the part's been ordered but it's 45 days out. We touched on that in a couple shorts.

uh about this car earlier in the week so we will see this again. Uh, for some uh, some red diagnostic of that uh that EVAP system DTC But until then, you guys I think I have nothing more to offer you on this particular video other than a thank you for watching this video. As always, hope you enjoyed this video. If you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below.

Do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there! And most importantly, check out Rainman Raiser Repairs.com and get yourself one of my custom fitted hats, t-shirts mugs, and or stickers. You can also find A-Rod from Power Stroke Tech Talk with A-Rod He's got a a couple goodies in my store as well. And again, if you're looking for some high quality premium synthetic lubricants uh for your internal combustion engine uh, you can get those at my Link at the Uh in the description from M Oil Direct, Nice and shiny. There we go.

All right guys, that's enough for me. No more Shameless sales pitches, No more changing engine fluids, No more repairs in this particular car. Thanks again for watching and most importantly, have yourselves a great day. See you guys later in a video in a transmission and a 3.6 l into Chrysler Can't do that.

You're going to ruin the engine nice and shiny. He.