Back to Part 1! Canadian Contamination!
https://youtu.be/qFXHK6z76Ho'>https://youtu.be/qFXHK6z76Ho
Part 2! No wonder it Misfired! P0300 2000 Silverado 1500 5.3 https://youtu.be/EssH7ukh3kI'>https://youtu.be/EssH7ukh3kI
Check out our New Custom Embroidered "Rainman Rays Repairs" Hats and our custom RRR and Wife Unit Coffee Mugs and Tumblers at RainmanRaysRepairs.com
Wife Unit unveils our tumblers HERE! UNLISTED video https://youtu.be/
Support the Channel with a Like and Subscribe!
Become a Channel Member or visit Patreon at https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
Visit our Second Channel on YouTube, RainmanRay Off Duty https://www.youtube.com/c/RainmanRayOutoftheShop
Follow on Twitter: @RainmanRay4Real
TikTok: www.tiktok.com/ @rainman_rays_repairs
Located in Florida? Need work done?? Visit www.RainmanRaysRepairs.com
Check out my Merchandise shop for Men's and Women's Apparel, MUGS and Stickers at www.RainmanRaysRepairs.com
Support the channel on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
Patreon is a "Tip Jar" I don't post much there, daily YT uploads are all that I can manage for now
1: Astro Tools 52SL 500x2 Lumen Wirelessly Rechargeable Folding Double-Sided LED Slim Light, & 52SLC 500x2 Lumen Folding Double-Sided LED Slim Light W/Wireless Charging Pad https://amzn.to/3Jd2h6t
2: Mountain 5-Piece Metric Double Box Universal Spline Reversible Ratcheting Wrench Set; 8 mm - 18mm, 90 Tooth Design, Long, Flexible, Reversible; MTNRM6 https://amzn.to/3OJTRp2
3: NOCO E404 12.25 Oz Battery Terminal Cleaner Spray and Corrosion Cleaner with Acid Detector https://amzn.to/3ILbdjv
#wifeunit #rainmanraysrepairs #mechanic #comnissionearned #mechanic #technician #dealer #independent #autorepair
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Also, I personally use or have used the products featured in my links and only recommended them if I feel they are of good quality.
”Intro Music by Karl Casey @ White Bat Audio”
Thanks to Jesse for making the intro and graphic for us to enjoy!!!
“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
https://youtu.be/qFXHK6z76Ho'>https://youtu.be/qFXHK6z76Ho
Part 2! No wonder it Misfired! P0300 2000 Silverado 1500 5.3 https://youtu.be/EssH7ukh3kI'>https://youtu.be/EssH7ukh3kI
Check out our New Custom Embroidered "Rainman Rays Repairs" Hats and our custom RRR and Wife Unit Coffee Mugs and Tumblers at RainmanRaysRepairs.com
Wife Unit unveils our tumblers HERE! UNLISTED video https://youtu.be/
Support the Channel with a Like and Subscribe!
Become a Channel Member or visit Patreon at https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
Visit our Second Channel on YouTube, RainmanRay Off Duty https://www.youtube.com/c/RainmanRayOutoftheShop
Follow on Twitter: @RainmanRay4Real
TikTok: www.tiktok.com/ @rainman_rays_repairs
Located in Florida? Need work done?? Visit www.RainmanRaysRepairs.com
Check out my Merchandise shop for Men's and Women's Apparel, MUGS and Stickers at www.RainmanRaysRepairs.com
Support the channel on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
Patreon is a "Tip Jar" I don't post much there, daily YT uploads are all that I can manage for now
1: Astro Tools 52SL 500x2 Lumen Wirelessly Rechargeable Folding Double-Sided LED Slim Light, & 52SLC 500x2 Lumen Folding Double-Sided LED Slim Light W/Wireless Charging Pad https://amzn.to/3Jd2h6t
2: Mountain 5-Piece Metric Double Box Universal Spline Reversible Ratcheting Wrench Set; 8 mm - 18mm, 90 Tooth Design, Long, Flexible, Reversible; MTNRM6 https://amzn.to/3OJTRp2
3: NOCO E404 12.25 Oz Battery Terminal Cleaner Spray and Corrosion Cleaner with Acid Detector https://amzn.to/3ILbdjv
#wifeunit #rainmanraysrepairs #mechanic #comnissionearned #mechanic #technician #dealer #independent #autorepair
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
Also, I personally use or have used the products featured in my links and only recommended them if I feel they are of good quality.
”Intro Music by Karl Casey @ White Bat Audio”
Thanks to Jesse for making the intro and graphic for us to enjoy!!!
“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
Hello Everybody! Good day to you and welcome back! This is going to be a very special episode in my opinion. We are about to settle a debate that has been occurring amongst the automotive Community for generations and generations. do we or do we not Grease the slides on our caliper brackets. This is going to be the part.
Three video of a 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 two wheel drive. This particular truck comes to us from the far away land of Canadia. She has approximately looks like 288,000 stored in history. Uh, last episode we changed some spark plugs and some wires.
We had found that the original plugs had worn to a gap of 70 to 80,000 of an inch in certain circumstances and I believe spec was 44,000 We are putting considerable effort into this vintage pickup truck and we would like to make it last throughout the years now. One thing I've noticed on this truck we can see here it's got a lot of replacement steering and suspension components. I Took note of several replacement suspension components on the this truck when we first did the inspection we can see here. there are some new bushings on these replacement upper control arms.
The lower control arms have also been replaced and it as well as uh, the tie rods at least the outers anyway. I Believe the steering rack has been replaced at one point, but we can also see that the outers also have been serviced and I know that because we have the presence of all these grease fittings Now from what I can tell, these fittings are dry and they have not been greased in quite some time. So I'm going to start this video off with with regreasing this front end and we're going to pull some of these things apart. Like these brake components.
we're going to try to decertify some of this rust and build up and we'll see what else we can find along the way. So stay tuned because this is going to be very good. Video uping Z Hood Oh look who that guy is. Let's circumnavigate the lift tied and move on up so to a more comfortable R height more on the locks.
Good. Let us begin deifying our suspension. Going to need some air hose for this one. All right, let's blow gun some of this dirt and whatnot out of here loud noises cing off these Grease everywhere.
Ah, rust got me. It's like a pocket of frame rust at in there. Oh that's nasty. Got wipe off the fitting here for uh, that other side or for the uh tie rod rather.
ooh that's not looking good. I Think the backing plates rusted out also. Oh no. All right, let's find out.
turn this thing and pull the uh, pull the brakes off here. Let's get uh, let's get this axle, turn some. I'm going to pull these rotors off and take a look at that backing plate in there. All right, we're looking for an 18 mm let's pull these slide pin bolts out onclick and it said nope, dang look at that.
that's a lot of Grease Time Two: Okay, like I said, it's been wellmaintained and we'll take a pry driver here and just get under this caliper from the bottom. we can work this thing up and away from the pads here. Come on out. Caliper Oo that does not want to uh to let go. So here check it out. I'll pry against the veins on the rotor a little bit to compress the Pistons There we go comes right out. Let's pull these pads off here. Oh what is this that was on there? Okay, take a look in here.
I Want to show you guys something. Do you see all of this buildup right here on the slide pin? Guys see all that that is grease from the last time that a breake job was done. See all that grease right there? Well you can see that's not liquid, it's more just like a like a hardened paste almost. This is my issue with lubricating slides on your caliper brackets and we can even see it right here on this one where the pad has been trying to move around and it's collecting that grease and it's packing it in and jacking it.
Between the caliper and the pad. You see all that right there. All that buildup. That means this pad is not going to want to come out of there.
Look at that. It is Not move freely. Yeah, see that. that thing is jacked in.
That's why they call it rust jacking. But this is grease jacking. What'll happen is all of, uh, all the brake dust from as these pads wears and any other dirt and debris that's floating around will get collected on that grease. just like this.
and it migrates and makes its way in and gets smashed between the pad and the bracket. and then your brake stick. Flashlight. Flashlight down.
All right. Check this out. So let me pull, stay, stay up there. Let's pry this other one out real quick.
It's not horrible, that's that one's making good contact. Let's check out the one around here on the back side. Take a look at this right here. See all that rust? You see how the pads are only making contact with less than half of the rotor surface? Do you see that right here? We've got the smooth part where it's definitely making contact, but then over here it's all rusted and pitted.
and those grooves in there are deep deep too. Look at that. See all those pits. It's all just rust that's from the pad not making contact with the back side of the rotor.
And that happens because of that jacking phenomenon where you get this debris and this grease in between the pad and its slide. Now to further my case against lubricating these well. I'll point out number one. when they come from the manufacturer, these are in there dry.
There is no lubrication here when these come when they're built when they're brand new. ever has been I've never actually seen it I'm sure there's that oneoff. Oddball Scenario that uh, it does occur, but I have not seen it. but we can take a look right here that is exposed.
There is no grease. There's no lubricant whatsoever on this part of the slide, yet it's not rusted out now. granted I Realized that's probably not the original and this has been replaced before. But regardless, we see Zero corrosion and zero rust on uh on either of these. I mean maybe a little bit of surface patina, but there's nothing here that's going to cause any kind of interference between the pads and the caliper bracket. So I am of the opinion that these metal slides and shims should not be lubricated when installing brake pads. Ah, now look at here. somebody has placed never seas in there to uh, prevent that from rusting.
I can get down with that like I see I think that's okay cuz that's not going to collect any dirt and debris because it's all been encased by uh by that, uh, that other slide that metal piece. So there's very little to none or to no exposure to the elements on this section. So I can understand some uh, some never Seas especially in a salty environment. But I I Still do not agree with the grease that actually goes on the actual slides cuz we saw what happens.
All right. caliper brackets coming off next, a little impact it? Nope. can't do it. so I'll use a bigger one that worked.
Oh, it doesn't fit. it's too big. Got her right? let's pull this rotor. same stuff.
dude. what was it? Oh, the brake clean. That's the good stuff. Yeah, Red can Aaron's raid in my brake clean closet.
Yeah, check that out. What has happened here. Will This back up so I don't have to hold on to it. What has happened here is since these pads were being hung up on the slides on the caliper bracket.
As the Pistons pressed on the pads to create friction, it was binding some so the pad would press in on the inside, but it would get stuck here on the outside. and so we were getting an uneven contact patch between the pad and the rotor. so this pad was wearing sideways and only rubbing on 40 45% of the rotor surface when it was missing out and all the rest of it over there because it was getting grease jacked with all that extra grease in there causing that stuff to stick and thus ruining the uh, the brake rotor prematurely. All right, let's get rid of this thing cuz we're not using it again.
we can see here. Look at that. we have a, uh, fairly newish hub bearing. This is good.
I Want to put some eyes on this backing plate over here. It's a it's seen better days. Look at that. Yeah, that's what I was worried about earlier.
This thing is totally coming apart. Yep, it's broken off right inside here. Look at that. There's nothing left of that backing plate.
It's only being held on by half of this section up here. and I bet two or three more Wiggles and it's going to break. Yeah, okay, um. I'm going to order some backing plates for this too.
We're going to put backing plates in it. Yep, so we're moving on on. going a little deeper. I need looks like 15 mm Fasteners We've got three of them on the back side of this. uh, this. Hub and this thing is also loaded full of never. Seas So somebody was thinking about me, the next guy. All right here.
Let's get this turned again so we could reach it from the backside Again, it's a 15 and a 15. I'm going to take a uh, a long handle wrench and break those loose and then we can finish them off with the electron ratchet. So let's see. I don't want to use my uh, my ratcheting wrenches because then I could possibly damage them.
We'll use the Straight wrench I don't want to break the ratcheting mechanism cuz sometimes these can be super super tight here. What I'll do is I'll get under it both arms and I'll use my weight Break It Loose There we go. second one and new all face. There we go.
All right. They're all loose now. good. all right.
Sneaking around to the back side, the electron ratchet, neutral drop these Fasteners all the way out. Got them. So I don't want to abuse these hubs too much trying to get them out I Have a feeling they will come out with ease, but I'm not going to bash on them with a hammer. we're just going to try to run them out with this Mallet right here.
it's either going to worker, it's not I may need to. Yeah. I'm going have to up the levels of aggression ever so slightly bigger. Hammer tap it on out from the the back side.
I'm giving some slight pressure away with my hand here. There we go, Got her. Okay, so we do have a little bit of crusty stuff to contend with on this. Not much.
a wire brush will handle that. no problem. Let's go ahead and clean up this face right here and get rid of all that uh, excess nasty polish this rust off of here and uh, well. I guess we can start to dis the other side because I'm waiting on the backing plates to arrive.
All right, let's get in there nice and deep, lock and deify this situation here. So I went ahead and pulled out a wire wheel cuz I figured that's the best tool to get the inner bore of uh of this Hub surface clean right here. so let me dig that ABS wire out. so I don't uh scratch It Up Full send.
There we go. We'll knock the rest of the dust off this front surface. I said dust I meant rust. Well, it's Rusty dust there.
much more better, more rust. good. All right, let's just get a little bit of never Seas or antise and anti never Seas We'll just get a little bit of this right here on this front face and this thing will be ready for uh, the new backing plate when it arrives and ready for the bearing. All right, let's move on over, circumnavigate the Silverado and start in.
On our other side. we got okay. We're looking at the same ammo as the other side here. Let's get this wheed turned over, flipped around.
We'll clean it off, blow everything out, get all the dirt off the zert fittings for future greasings. Then we'll pull this uh Hub and this rotor as well. I Do believe that the backing plate yeah, that's just as crust dematic as the other one. Look at that, it's going to fall right out. All right, let's grab the gun and get this thing disconnected. Remove: See how greased up these pins are. Slippage: A good one. Mhm well lubricated shaft times two.
Stick you guys over here. Let's go ahe and get this caliper out of here. Give us some Wiggles Back to the pry driver. Now what's open up those Pistons Some a little bit of pressure caliper is free and we've got the exact same situation going on here with these slide pins.
Check this out. They're loaded full of grease. That grease has collected all this dust and dirt and rust and it's causing pads to stick. Look at that, see how tight the fitment was in there.
It just peeled the grease right off of it. Okay, yep. look at here on the inboard side of the pad. we can see our contact patch and then we can see right here where it's all pitted and it's sort of discolored.
I Can't feel a difference in where, but we're not making contact up here at this top side. No bueno. Let's pop this one out on rid of that and our other one up top. Pop you out.
Same situation. Got a bunch of Never Seas in here which is good. It prevented rusting and damage from this caliper bracket. Big boy coming in.
oh no, doesn't fit. swivel coming in. Need to get a better angle for the dangle here. Got it all right? Let's get out of here and we'll pull this rotor, see what we're looking like behind it and we have another brand new.
Hub Good! Hub Face right here loaded with never seas and horrible, horrible contact patch on our brake pads. No Bu0 15 Straight wrench again. Now here's the deal with this one: I can't hang down on it unless I try it from that side over there. but if I try to pull on this wrench from over there, it's just going to run into the tie rods.
so we're just going to kind of stance ourselves here. double hand it. kind like we're golfing. just give it a straight arm pull.
There we go. Go like the greas? There we go. Got that one ratchet wrench coming in A- Rod's making a lot of noise with a Mustang say hi hi Aon we've got bearded Ford Te Viking mechanic Ford Viking mechanic and Power stroke Tech talk with A-Rod that's the one and only A-Rod they're here for the week I was Rony without them I'm so Rony linear impact driver coming in. Let's knock this bearing out and make sure our knuckle's good.
Just tap it on out. Misfire got it? Okay, we're looking at a kind of a similar level of crust dematic action going on here. Nothing crazy cuz somebody threw a bunch of never sees in it. Let's clean this thing out too.
and I think we're We're probably going to be on like a standstill or a parts hold when this is done cuz I don't have my backing plates and I cannot reassemble anything without them. Pity got away from me. there. There we go. Yeah, we're digging in. Nice, clean up all that crusty goodbye Canadian contamination air. All right guys. As you can see here, there's no additional damages.
There is a bit of rust pitting and some flaking and whatnot. but I think this is going to be okay. So unfortunately I have really nothing more to do on this particular truck until I Get some backing plates. when I get my backing plates, we can, uh, continue with the reassembly of these brake system components.
I'll be sure to get this thing greased up and lubricated that way it's ready for another winter up in Canadia But uh, so guys haven't said all that again. And as always, thank you for watching. Certainly hope you enjoyed this video. If in fact, you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below.
Do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there. and most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day! See you guys later in a Silverado in a video End of Canadian Brake job end of crusty contamination end of transmission I Go you you guys! I Was totally kidding I Would never ever ever do something like this permanently. It was just for the never Seas joke. No worries I'm going to clean it off.
It does kind of look cool.
Since this truck is from canadia,shoud you not speak france?STEM NC USA😮
This was a good video. There are many good comments below suggesting how you adjust the use of grease to the environment for your vehicle.
It frightening to see such malfunctioning parts,
All I know is don't oil your brakes to get rid of the squeak.
It takes an idiot to grease the brake slides on brakes. It has now cost the customer more money unnecessary.
Velly, velly, intelsting.
I grease mine very lightly. I did have some slightly uneven wear when I did brakes on my old S10 a couple years ago. I never knew why…. so even tho I don't think that was the issue, I'll be investigating next time I'm in there.
Good food for thought Ray 👍
179000 miles
I live in Sweden and we salt our roads and get winter conditions. I have never greased the slides, mainly because it would collect all the brake dust and cease.
I apply a heavy coat of silicone spray lubricant to the rotors and pads to keep them from squeaking. Works like a charm!! 👌🏻👨🏻🔧
That hub bearing came out pretty easily. Usually those sorts of bearings are virtually welded in place and beating them with hammers doesn’t get them out. If that turns out to be the case, I use a 10 ton body dozer, pushing against the wheel on the other side. Never had one beat me yet, using that.
I grease between the hardware and the calliper brackets, but not between the hardware and the brake pads. Just like Eric O.
To grease or not to grease: that is the question! Greasing shim plates is something mainly depending of the calipers and pads design. I've always been told grease will melt then accumulate dust and debris, causing problems and seizing anywhere where the disk ventilation operates. However, some thin layer of high temp grease can solve minor problems in harsh conditions, thus implying a more frequent maintenance (end of winter…). Most actual brakes design used here in EU are similar: these stainless steel shims are supposed not require greasing per design, but I've seen many, and I recommend use of some antiseize at the shim-caliper interface, where electrolytic decay within different materials is always a problem. Some also put a little layer of high temp copper grease at the pad-piston interface for the noise, but it also depends on design… and technician. Some brakes systems can also require some spring loading, also against seizing and noise.
we always lube the slides but there was a day when we did not but that was many many years ago in time you learn ,thanks for the very good video
Here in Nova Scotia, we don't have backing plates.
He said "jacking it" 😂🎉
It’s actually a 12 mm bolt, with a 18mm head .😊
You don’t believe in cutting the rotors ???
Ray… for decades, any time I did a brake job, I would apply grease to the boots of the caliper pistons, to the backside of the pads and to the slides to make sure they didn't squeak or squeal. Since watching your videos, I stopped doing that, only applying them to the slide pins like you do… and honestly, it has made all of my vehicles squeak, especially in reverse. I have since removed the brakes from all of those vehicles, put the grease back in the spots I normally do, and suddenly, no more squeaks. You're a talented and skillful mechanic, I am not taking that away from you, but I'm just mentioning this to you to let you know that your method doesn't seem to translate into real life for me.
this was excessive and should have been a lite coating of anti seize but as a Canadian from Winnipeg I can assure you if you don't put some on the slides you will have issues
Ray in the UK if you don't use Copperslip grease then the pads would seize with all the salt and sand put on the roads during winter. That stuff does not dry out and remains operational and is also the best stuff to grease the sliders with. Copperslip cool stuff
rust is the dust from iron oxidizing so you are correct when you called it dust.
great video
Thanks Ray for this very informative video, on what to do and what not to do, and what to look for.
A-Rod Toyota Hot Hot Hot Hot 🚙
My rotors are doing the same thing but I have never greased the stainless steel slides. I wonder if it's possible for the surface under the SS slides to rust and cause the SS slide to expand and bind the pad a little?
Just leave the backing plates off. My wifes 03 envoy had the rear ones rot out, I have put off replacing then for 3 years now since I found them doing her brakes which menas they were rotted out for who knows how long…but even in Minnesota salty winters they have given us no issue. I did squirt a little oil up in there just to keep things moving.
I don't understand why vehicle manufacturers don't make the backing plates out of aluminum?
Wrong type of grease, too much grease and how darn long ago was it maintained? We who live in wintery countries, cleans old and apply new copperpaste when we change tires, i.e 2 times a year. The grease protect from rusting and from squealing. Grease or no grease, maintain the car a couple times of the year helps a lot.
That rust belt must be a bitch. I have never seen that clip greased before. According to the posts I've read they say it will rust if you don't do it at least a little, but you show how the grease itself causes problems. What do you do? I think I would not grease them and have them serviced regular, I mean, look what happens with the grease. Brakes are a must and can be expensive if you let it go. I would use that rust reversal stuff once or twice a year if I lived up there. Not sure if it would work on the slide clips or not, maybe worth a try.
Keep in mind that old school brake calipers did not use shims, all slides had to be lubed. Here in California I can see not greasing shims from now on. At 70 yrs it's never to old to learn new ways. I will still be lubing my 70 Era brake calipers.
I agree with Ray 100%. That grease turned into cement.
More content please 😊
Welcoming back!
I concur… A little grease under the shims is sufficient…
The brake manufacturers and engineers recommend lubing procedures small amount of grease is all that's needed these brakes are obviously over greased
If it's driven in winter here, you must grease (with the correct caliper slide grease) the pins and/or slides. If you don't they WILL rust tight. Actually even with grease they rot tight, just not as soon. Also the pad abutments need the same treatment. Nothing like having to use a dead blow hamner to remove the pads. It rusts between the bracket and the stainless wear/anti squeak shims, expands and lock the pads up tight. Then a few minutes with a diamond wheel to grind the rust away before reassembly. If it's been driven in any of that liquid brine crap, good luck. Fun also, have you ever had to use a 10 lb sledge to get the rotors off. Good times, good times.😵💫
You know, we people of the comment section should make a game, who can get their vehicle serviced by most of the professional mechanics posting on YouTube?
I could smell the dust, rust and grease when he started to wire wheel the hub
All right how many of you squinted and held your breath when the rest dust was flying🖐…lol
You really need a needle scaler air tool.
so lesson of the day
1) brake slide pins = lube
2) brake pad slides = no lube
South main auto uses lube on all of his break jobs so now I'm confused
No, you don't grease slide pins. You lubricate them with Sil-Glide. They come from the factory with lubrication for a reason. To ensure even brake pad application and wear, the caliper must freely move on the slides. If you have dry slides, the inside pad will wear more and faster than the outside pad, or the caliper can bind on one pin and twist, causing an angle wear on both pads. If you live in a desert, then you probably have no worries. But in wet and salty environments, they will get contaminated and rust will cause them to freeze up.
And dissimilar metals require a dielectric barrier in between them or they will corrode (an exchange of ions) rapidly. Grease can be a barrier between two surfaces, as can tape, paint, or plastic.
Slides get greased lightly. Its not a job for never seez. Its a job for grease but overdoing it causes a huge mess as aforementioned.
I've seen that wear pattern changing out new non-greased brakes here in Michigan. It's either rust or grease build up for us up here lol
The pins are always lubed up Ray. The ears of the pads need a SMALL amount of grease. Some clown at a Canadian Tire gooped on the grease and caused this issue. I ALWAYS put a small amount of grease on the ears of the pads so that they can slide on the rails of the pad carrier!
Thanks Ray I note that you do grease the slide pins but never grease the pad ears. I had been told that the pad ears should be greased to prevent squeeling noise is that correct?
Go work a year in any winter/rust belt…sticky with grease or welded solid brakepad…its your choice i suppose 💁
So which do you think is worse? Grease jacking or rust jacking? At least you could get the calipers and pads out. I've had to hammer pads out with a punch and bfh. Brakes don't work when they're rusted into a blob or when the pads are rusted fast to the slides.
RAY I never Lube the Brake Pads :-))
If anyone Lives in Rust Belt-
Eric-always has good ideas as he is a Mechanic in New York and has to Deal with Rust Everyday…looks like that lives in the salt belt…. and there is a reason u have brake lubricant….
I have never had a problem with that.. u just put enough to LIGHTLY cote the pins
no grease for me on the shims there are stainless
What part of the great white north is that truck from? My 07 Silverado from Chicagoland is way rustier than that truck.
Slides are stainless steel they shouldn't rust, if rust is a problem manufactures need to change to a different none ferrous metal like oillite bronze but its soft like copper
Then that makes me think of plastics both on the brake pad ear and slides but that can melt, or get brittle. Then a carbon fiber like the rotors used on race cars,
There is deffently a way to change the engineering thats not going to rust from road salts.
Find it make the whole dam truck out of it.
Never ever grease slide makes problems ray use cooper never seize holds longer doesn't contaminate
Wouldn't make sense to paint the knuckles after they have been cleaned ?? I wonder why Ray is not doing the back brakes I would think you would do them all at once ..
YES you grease the slides and YES you grease the ears of the pads! You do this very carefully. AND most importantly….
BED YOUR BRAKES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Those Rotors can't be resurfaced?
SALUTEI have never lubed the slides, I do practice hard braking every so often to ensure their correct operation
Well done Ray, well done.
A most excellent video.
SALUTEThere's a lot of knowledge in that shop I wish I just knew a quarter of what each one of you know
Living in Ontario Canada I brush on a tiny bit of brake lube on all sliders. My original ones were so rusted I couldn’t believe the brakes even worked, but they did squeel the odd time the final week before I replaced everything on my everday driver 2010 VW Golf. After that and a bleed my brakes are better than when it was brand new.
You don’t want grease if you live somewhere dusty, turns into cutting paste. If you live there in the dust, a couple of coats of a dry film silicon will help keep things mobile.
I do on cars that don't have springs to push the pads back out. I also use antiseize instead of grease
Had the same problem on my 2000 Chevy Express 1/2 ton, used a flat file to flatten the surface and applied some Never Seize on the slides and has been OK for 6yrs + 50k miles
Once every couple of months I "skoosh" (Scottish slang for spray) a can of Brake Cleaner into my brake caliper assy and onto the discs as well. A good clean get all that road grit and brake dust out. Don't use Brake Cleaner on your bearings though as they have special grease on them, or at least should have! 🔧🪒💿
In Denmark you have to greas the brake pads ,if you dont the rust get info it in 3 -4 month ,but i only yous ceramic paste ,
I'm so ronry. Lol.
Up here in Canadia it is a must to put a very thin coat of brake lube on the sliders. Actually, after cleaning and before installing the pad shims, small amount of grease, install the shims, then a thin coat of grease, then slide in the pads. Helps prevent calipers etc from seizing.
What I like about watching you, is even things I have worked on more than once. You throw in a tip here a there. I didn't think of and was not in the service manual. I do most of my own repairs because of past Experience. But I do wise I lived close by you. You do great work. And Seem to have a conscious.
Its how much and what type, and cleaning brackets and hardware that fits.
The Roush in the background looks pretty sweet.
Good information and technique.
When I do brakes, a thin layer of grease on the pad perches, but a liberal amount of high heat grease on the caliper slide pins, and paying attention not to get to much in the locking threads of the pins!
When I was working as a technician, one of the first break jobs had seized brake pins that snapped the pin at the bolt head, leaving behind the threaded part of the pin! So a light coating!
Now keep in mind, I was a service technician when oil changes were at 3000 miles per year, and these inspections could be done approximately every 3-4 months!
So if you honestly think about it, service and inspection is the real key to keep these things going!
Just like some others have stated… In the north i give a gentle coating with my finger to help mitigate rust build up … Damned if you do damned if you dont … But that truck had way to much grease…and once a year people should have their brakes serviced wile getting/doing an oil change and tire swap …
155th! HOWDY! Good Thursday morning Ray and the wife unit. And a huge SHOUTOUT to the new employees. Roger in Pierre South Dakota
lol we Canada ya rust free the repairs are not lol
Up in Northern Alberta (Canada) if you don’t put anti-seize on the brakes you’ll never get them apart after a few winters.
I have an LED pin light I want to send to you I don't use it maybe you can get some use out of it it would be cool just to see it on your channel
Hey ray I stick a shop vacuum on to help get dust out of the air
lol sometimes it fun just hang hose up by it with out having it fall trying to tire rope around the hose to the area you’re sounding
Nobody wants to breathe rust particles
I do not Grease the the slides I clean them down with some WD-40 and rub them off good
why 22 min to explain? commercials thats whay
Are you bashing Canada again ray ROFL your grounded lol
In Canada grease the sliders. In Florida maybe not so much
I put a little grease and then wipe it off. This leaves a thin coat that just prevents rust and corrosion, but not enough to turn attract dirt and turn to mud.
~180,000 miles if anyone was curious.
I would say No on greasing the hardware on the brakes… as it would accumulate dust and dirt making it actually worse… ChrisFix does it though…
Ray: "I don't want to bash on these with a hammer…"
also Ray: <grabs bigger hammer>
I always do a light coating of LOOObe on the slides. lol !
If progress builds grime grime eventually break down the sliders they fall apart or it gets stuck and they won’t move. I had this debate with somebody. We tried on two different vehicles. The one that got grease. The brakes got stuck.
I’ve never greased a slide only the ear of the pad and never had a problem
Yes, I use AGS Silglide. Everyone says the Permatex Purple is bad on slide pins especially in the northern corrosion regions. Nothing on shims, something on non-shim equipped brackets.
"Ellie, The Door Locks!"
For southerners, greasing brakes is like seasoning cast iron. If you're unsure how much to use, ask your grandma.
What is the purpose of the backing plate?