friend of mine used to have a civic thats steering whel would slip if you turned aggressivelyand then if you turned hard the other way it would come back i think it was the wheel itself tho cause the linkages where fine
Ive fixed same issue. That kind of syptom is nearly ALWAYS a rack mount, never seen intermediate shaft do that, but have had them clunk over bumps on occasion
Would never buy a nissan, after 7k miles new car got bad lifter knock, dealer and nissan said it wasnt broke so wouldnt repair it. Paid for extended maintenance and noone would take responsibility. Nissan is crap
Get in my wife's charger the other day steering wheel was way off. Asked how long it been like this . Oh idk 2 weeks maybe. Nut was backed almost completely off of the outer tie rod.
Had this happen after aftermarket control arms and coilovers…figured out the half inch it lowered the vehicle was just enough for the sway bar to be forced down enough to bind on the top of the tie rods…replaced the end links with longer bolts and spacers and no more binding.
My current car's previous owners repaired the steering rack with furnace tape. On the way to the shop to get it fixed, the tape snapped, and the only thing keeping the passenger's wheel pointed the same way as the driver's was physics. Scary stuff.
funny that this is showing up on my feed, because when i first bought my 1999 Nissan pathfinder, it had this same exact stearing issue. it was the reason my brother god bless his soul sold it to me for only $500(i was 19 lol), 4 years later i ended up pushing the car over 200,000 on the odometer. goin for 300k!
When i was in a hit and run. I turn the wheel and it would keep turning. Would have to fight with it to drive it. Had to replace the control arm and some other stuff. 2.7k all together. Insurence wouldnt even pay cuz they claim they cant figure who is at fault. Even tho police report says hit and run automatically makes me not liable.
Have something similar on my 1980 VW Rabbit pickup. Issue began after the old rack & pinion bit the dust & replaced it with a still solid good-used. My tie rods from the old unit were still good so swapped those over while taking measurements prior to try & get things matched. TOE still required some finicky adjustment of trial & adjustment to get rid of pulling. Then when got my 1st passenger after install got done it would pull to the right (almost never have a passenger) so the wheel had to be turned about 60deg left from straight across to go straight. Also noticed if making a hard LEFT turn the wheel won't return to straight properly either. A hard turn RIGHT will realign things. Narrowed it down to collapsing suspension & a failed//sticking strut cartridge. When front suspension compresses it alters steering geometry…the TRIANGLE is from the tie rod where it goes from the RACK to WHEEL to TOP OF STRUT. When it sticks compressed my wheel must be turned left…while lifting up on the P/F wheel "resets" it & the wheel returns to normal. Normal driving w/ just my ~220lb self in the driver's seat the wheel stays straight w/ a VERY small pull to the left (needs the pass rod adjusted a fraction of a turn still. I get to order not only new cartridges but likely replacement coils due to fatigue. Have driven the thing for over 2 years now & never touched the front suspension which COULD be OEM. Will get a strut mount + cartridge + coil rebuild.
at least here there is an annual roadworthy inspection on safety, this would clearly fall within the safety inspection. Basically: tires must have profile for so many millimeter, Brakes and lights must work within specs, the windshield wipers must be working and whole, wiper fluids must be at least half full, belts must fully work, chairs must be solidly in there, steering must work correctly, the outside is not allowed to have sharp edges, car body cannot be rusted thru at places (integrity and crumple area must work as intended, if rusted away that ain't the case), anything safety related. It also includes emission tests and the works. It's basically a whole car checkup except for the engine itself and the conveniences in the car (electronics, AC, lights inside the vehicle, etc).
My shop runs into this all the time. Customer comes in for alignment thinking its a wonder pill that cures all problems with the suspension. They act surprised it needs $1,000's in parts to fix something that is broke or had signs of it hitting something hard and bending parts. They don't seem to grasp that a bent part I can get the car to go straight but on turns it will be hard to control or tires will squeal or wear badly. Loose parts the alignment read out will change into out of spec just by breathing on one of the tires.
If your wheel isnt returning the first place id take a hard look at is the ball joints. They are probsvly already so gone you're lucky one hasnt dropped yet. Source? Ive boight s lot of shitboxes and more than one sropped a ball joint on me sooner than i could replace them. Nimber 1 sign they are bad bad is when the wheel doesnt like to return.
I rebuilt my car bottom to top. Had this for the first few miles and it stopped. No idea what it was. Put it on the lift. Nothing moved. I’m only 300 miles in. Wish me luck.
I went in for an alignment on my mothers car and got the great news that the bushings, ball joints, upper and lower control arms are fucked so i get to repair all that this coming friday yay me 😃😮💨
yea my car is like that but mfs don’t care anymore i just been rolling with it cuz im broke
When there's play, your going to have a bad day.
friend of mine used to have a civic thats steering whel would slip if you turned aggressivelyand then if you turned hard the other way it would come back i think it was the wheel itself tho cause the linkages where fine
what you expect its a nissan!
Looks like rack bushes, I just did a prado with a similar problem.
set screw
Im glad ray is back in my feed, i used to fall asleep to his 1 hour long videos
You never need an alignment. Unless something is broken.
Dude just press r I’ll automatically fix it
1st problem it's a Nissan
Ive fixed same issue. That kind of syptom is nearly ALWAYS a rack mount, never seen intermediate shaft do that, but have had them clunk over bumps on occasion
Typical newer Nissan….
The people that complain about mechanics 'trying to sell another $1000 work on an oil change' own these cars. 100%, guaranteed.
Fix the damn thing and quit whining
😂
Would never buy a nissan, after 7k miles new car got bad lifter knock, dealer and nissan said it wasnt broke so wouldnt repair it. Paid for extended maintenance and noone would take responsibility. Nissan is crap
Get in my wife's charger the other day steering wheel was way off. Asked how long it been like this . Oh idk 2 weeks maybe. Nut was backed almost completely off of the outer tie rod.
33% of the time it seems they forget that.
Had this happen after aftermarket control arms and coilovers…figured out the half inch it lowered the vehicle was just enough for the sway bar to be forced down enough to bind on the top of the tie rods…replaced the end links with longer bolts and spacers and no more binding.
My current car's previous owners repaired the steering rack with furnace tape. On the way to the shop to get it fixed, the tape snapped, and the only thing keeping the passenger's wheel pointed the same way as the driver's was physics. Scary stuff.
The customer could probably use
an alignment as well… 😳
Nissan steering box and steering gear😮
Mine did this, just fixed it with a little wd 40 white lithium grease every 6 months on the joints, world like a charm.
Steering rack bushings
Sounds like fluid only works 1 way on the rack. Suprised something wasn't loose.
Rack.
Rack and pinion bushings inner and outer tie rods
funny that this is showing up on my feed, because when i first bought my 1999 Nissan pathfinder, it had this same exact stearing issue. it was the reason my brother god bless his soul sold it to me for only $500(i was 19 lol), 4 years later i ended up pushing the car over 200,000 on the odometer. goin for 300k!
Tierod ends? Or a bushing possibly on a-arm??
When i was in a hit and run. I turn the wheel and it would keep turning. Would have to fight with it to drive it. Had to replace the control arm and some other stuff. 2.7k all together. Insurence wouldnt even pay cuz they claim they cant figure who is at fault. Even tho police report says hit and run automatically makes me not liable.
Needs a rack, done
Average International driver "Eh, I guess I keep driving. Nothing else works anyways, except the AC."
It's a bad rack I have those same problem with my mpv and my miata did it to
My pathfinder had this same issue it was the steering rack bushing
I can only fix what I can afford at the moment
I had this problem before on a pontiac sunfire….. the front subframe was rotten
My moms car does that….
Have something similar on my 1980 VW Rabbit pickup. Issue began after the old rack & pinion bit the dust & replaced it with a still solid good-used. My tie rods from the old unit were still good so swapped those over while taking measurements prior to try & get things matched. TOE still required some finicky adjustment of trial & adjustment to get rid of pulling. Then when got my 1st passenger after install got done it would pull to the right (almost never have a passenger) so the wheel had to be turned about 60deg left from straight across to go straight. Also noticed if making a hard LEFT turn the wheel won't return to straight properly either. A hard turn RIGHT will realign things.
Narrowed it down to collapsing suspension & a failed//sticking strut cartridge. When front suspension compresses it alters steering geometry…the TRIANGLE is from the tie rod where it goes from the RACK to WHEEL to TOP OF STRUT. When it sticks compressed my wheel must be turned left…while lifting up on the P/F wheel "resets" it & the wheel returns to normal. Normal driving w/ just my ~220lb self in the driver's seat the wheel stays straight w/ a VERY small pull to the left (needs the pass rod adjusted a fraction of a turn still.
I get to order not only new cartridges but likely replacement coils due to fatigue.
Have driven the thing for over 2 years now & never touched the front suspension which COULD be OEM. Will get a strut mount + cartridge + coil rebuild.
at least here there is an annual roadworthy inspection on safety, this would clearly fall within the safety inspection.
Basically: tires must have profile for so many millimeter, Brakes and lights must work within specs, the windshield wipers must be working and whole, wiper fluids must be at least half full, belts must fully work, chairs must be solidly in there, steering must work correctly, the outside is not allowed to have sharp edges, car body cannot be rusted thru at places (integrity and crumple area must work as intended, if rusted away that ain't the case), anything safety related. It also includes emission tests and the works.
It's basically a whole car checkup except for the engine itself and the conveniences in the car (electronics, AC, lights inside the vehicle, etc).
My shop runs into this all the time. Customer comes in for alignment thinking its a wonder pill that cures all problems with the suspension. They act surprised it needs $1,000's in parts to fix something that is broke or had signs of it hitting something hard and bending parts. They don't seem to grasp that a bent part I can get the car to go straight but on turns it will be hard to control or tires will squeal or wear badly. Loose parts the alignment read out will change into out of spec just by breathing on one of the tires.
If your wheel isnt returning the first place id take a hard look at is the ball joints. They are probsvly already so gone you're lucky one hasnt dropped yet. Source? Ive boight s lot of shitboxes and more than one sropped a ball joint on me sooner than i could replace them. Nimber 1 sign they are bad bad is when the wheel doesnt like to return.
Rack shifts sideways
I know exactly what the problem was before I saw heard the problem!
It’s a 🐷💩nissan 💨
Ah rack bushes 😅
I rebuilt my car bottom to top. Had this for the first few miles and it stopped. No idea what it was. Put it on the lift. Nothing moved. I’m only 300 miles in. Wish me luck.
I went in for an alignment on my mothers car and got the great news that the bushings, ball joints, upper and lower control arms are fucked so i get to repair all that this coming friday yay me 😃😮💨
WAIT! My car is doing the same thing Where's that rubber at??