After MONTHS of obstacles this EJ25 Subaru Engine is finally ready to go back in the 1999 Legacy Outback AWD. It came in with a coolant leak and oil leak in part 1, we found a leaking water pump. During service we found a seized water pump bolt which broke off during removal. After spending hours attempting a failed extraction in part 2, I gave up and ordered a salvage engine to replace it with. The engine was lost in Virginia during the Yellow Freight trucking company shut down, never to be seen again. Unable to locate a suitable replacement, attempts were restarted to extract the damaged bolt AND stud extractors that broke off in the bolt. In part 3, with the engine on the bench, we were finally able to remove the bolt, but the engine was damaged at the bolt hole and the threads were lost during extraction. During part 4 the block was drilled out and a thread insert called a time-sert was installed. Victory was short lived because immediately after, during the timing belt assembly, the belt tensioner bolt stripped out and pulled the threads. Another time-sert was installed and the engine is finally ready to be installed.
Part 1 This is how it started! Customer States: Everything Leaking! Subaru Legacy Outback 2.5 AWD
This video is Part 2 Drove IN Pushed Out! Damaged during Repair! Subaru Outback Legacy 2.2 2.5 @I_Do_Cars
Part 3 Extracting the broken bolt! Welding Explosion! Intense Bolt Extraction! Will it FAIL? Subaru Outback 2.2 2.5
Part 4 Damaged Block Threads! Subaru Outback Legacy 2.2 2.5 Hurricane Idalia
Part 5 Engine Damage AGAIN! Subaru Legacy Outback 2.2 2.5 EJ25
SHORT Welding Explosion! Intense Bolt Extraction! Will it FAIL? Subaru Outback 2.2 2.5

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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to

Foreign I thought Hurricane Lee was supposed to miss us. Is that a guy? That is a guy? What is this about? What is that about? Ah, the Matrix has me see that they're watching me. I See you over there Agents of The Matrix Are my window. Hey did you check my windows? Go check my windows too.

I Said go check my windows too. Wait, don't do it. I'm so horrible here. Run out into the lightning storm with this hurry.

Troy Check them, check the windows. Are they good? Are they good? Yeah, they're good. Let's go. Howdy Folks Good day to you guys and welcome back! I'm glad you guys are here.

We are returning to our Ej25 that's 2.5 liter. uh Subaru engine. It's the one that goes to the Ruba Zoo Outback I've got out of the parking lot. This thing started as a simple water pump job and it turned into a broken bolt.

uh in the block I Repaired the broken bolt in the last video and now we have another broken bolt right up here on the belt. Tension focus focus focus. There we go. Yeah! I Went to put the tensioner on and it pulled the threads right out of the block again.

that guy is gonna go right there. Um I didn't feel very good to me. I Mean it's that's tight but oh no, you gotta be kidding me. and what about that? We got more ruined threads on the Subaru engine.

Come on car guys. I We just had a major victory. Now there's a major failure. so that's two bolts.

I Tried to put in two bolts that pulled the threads I Had to end up ordering another time start kit. This one is the I Think it's an M10 size? Let me see Yeah! M10 by 1.25 that's the thread pitch for the bolt that goes onto the belt tensioner. So we're gonna go ahead and drill these threads out one more time. we're gonna tap it.

I'm going to install a repair insert in the hole that I threaded and drilled and tapped. and then once that is done, we'll be able to bolt the tensioner back onto the front of this block. Then I can put the timing belt on, then we can put the covers back on. Then maybe at some point I can put the thing back inside of the Subaru that's still sitting outside the parking lot.

Uh, if you are not familiar with this particular project, there are several videos on it. Just check down inside of this video's description and you will find the links in chronological order for uh for all those other videos. So without any further Ado or introduction, let's go ahead and get started. I'm going to take the drill to another aluminum engine block.

so stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video opening Z hoods. Oh look who that guy is. All right, let's take a look at what we're taking a look at. here.

There is our stripped out hole and I'm going to go ahead and get into this guy with the drill and we're going to drill these threads out. Now my time cert kit did come with a replacement or with the drill bit in order to drill these holes. So we're going to use the stuff that uh, that they gave us. Let's get this thing chucked up.
There we go. There's a little bit clickage. Let's get started with some cutting mover kit down in that hole. Now this part of the block actually passes through.

uh, into the uh, uh I want to call it a cooling jacket? Like what I'm saying is you can basically look through there and you can see the cylinder. uh, the cylinder liner protruding down from the block. or actually going sideways to the block because this is a flat four engine. Either way, this goes all the way through into the cylinder.

So if I were to punch through this hole with this drill bit and continue to drill after I make it past that hole. There's potentially you could actually drill into a cylinder and that would not be okay. So we're gonna make sure we don't do that anyway. I've got some cutting oil installed.

Let's go ahead and get these threads drilled out. Spinning straight and true. Yeah, no, it's not here we go most speed. That's not what I wanted to happen.

It's because my drill is super clutch. Okay, let's try that again. Not a machinist. Oh, come on, don't do that.

There we go. Okay, we're through. Threads are gone. Hooray! Blow that thing out with some air that was, uh, kind of ugly, but it'll work.

It's a hole. Okay, quick change out of the bit and I now have this counter bore tool. What this thing is going to do is it's going to cut away a lip or a chamfer rather. so I can fit the flared end of this insert.

So we're going to cut down in the metal about. Yay Far! See that little step on the bit right there? We're going to cut down about that far That way when we thread this insert into that hole, after we cut threads into it, it can sit a little recessed into the block and at the end of this Champion right here will not. uh, protrude and in. So we're gonna throw a little bit more oil on there.

some more. Lube that in position and start the cut a little bit more. I Think that's about right. Looks good.

Okay, we'll go with that spray to clean it out. Okay, now we can go in there with the tap and we can tap these. uh, that hole thread pitch that's going to match the outer diameter on our insert? I See some metal pieces in there? Let me clean that up a little bit. Okie Dokies So we have our tap that came with the time sir thread repair kit.

We're going to use their tap, but we do need to break into my tap and die set because we're going to need a driver for that tap. That one's too small Else will use the Big T handle. Now what we're gonna do is get this thing set up and I don't know if this t-handle clearance and it does not. So I need to put a socket on the end of that or something.

man. I've got it figured out this was the appropriate tool. I had to uh after loosen it and then those little fingers will open up fit the base of the tap. There we go.

That's what we're looking for. So then we'll take our T-handle and put it inside of our tool. Tighten that down. let's get some more lubricant on it.
There you go and let's go ahead and tap and cut new threads for our insert. The micrometer tells me that we're aligned up and down, left and right. So let's uh, let's start the turn here. See what she does? It's going in pretty smooth.

very smooth, good cut. That's because these engine blocks are made out of cheese. That's why it's so more. Pretty sure we're through all the way.

Breads feel good. Let's go ahead and start backing it out and see what they look like. That was a very easy cut, but this is also a new tap and it's very sharp too so you can see how that's okay. it's slow the hole.

What do we have so far? How's that look? Okay I would go ahead and say that that's pretty cherry right there. Those look good. A little bit of chatter from where I had to drill. that drill wasn't going so well, but it's threaded nonetheless.

So let's go ahead and prep our insert and get that thing driven into position. Okay, next up, we've got the thread installation inserter device. It's basically just a bolt that goes on the end of our t-handle What I would do is we'll thread this guy on to our installer, see if it's going to thread up ever that looks good. Okay, shoe threads caught so we know we have a good start.

Let's throw some Loctite in there surge inserted all the way down and we torque it until oh, it's not going down all the way. Look at that. Okay, can't run this down all the way because it will run into the the cylinder wall inside. What do we do here? Let's try a full send real quick.

I Tried to thread this thing down onto the installer a little bit and it started to hang up as if the installer was kind of gripping onto it. So maybe it's got enough here to get past whatever 's in the way. Go on red! What I'm going to do is probably thread this down and then I'll put another insert on this installer. Yeah, farther.

Uh oh, it's getting stuck. That's not what we want. That is not what I wanted to have happen right there. Okay, all right.

so now I'm going to run another insert down onto this installer and then finish this thing off. Hopefully I can do that before we run out of thread lock now. I'm getting nervous I may end up sacrificing this uh, this insert right here I wish they had like a stopper on this so I could just kind of lock it down. but uh, it's not equipped with such things Oh See, it's stopping right there.

Tell you what? I'll just put it in the vise, let the vice hang on to it, back to the pliers. we're just gonna force it down. All I need is some threads on this side to grip onto that. Here we go.

This is the unorthodox way. I did not intend to do this in this fashion. That guy off, get in there you I'd hate to have to drill this out a second time. This is failing.
My insert is failing you guys and I broke it. Okay, it has failed. dang. I mean it's in there.

but I've got this little lip protruding I wonder if I didn't grind it down far enough? See how well this? yeah, that's not gonna work? Uh, this thing broke. it's not okay I don't know what to do. see if the bolt threads into it. Let's start with that socket coming in.

All right, that's going in that threads and it looks like they only broke that lip on the insert. I Think I'm going to just grind that thing flush. Yeah, we have threads. I Just I need to grind that off flush that way the the tensioner can just sit flush against it.

I Think we're we're okay here with what's uh, what's going on right now. All right. loud noise is incoming. Got the angle grinder Little Ziz Wheel pad on it I Think I can get in there and grind away that uh, that piece that's sticking out.

Oh fingers crossed. That's actually really good. A little bit more up top right here. Okay, okay.

all of that is is recessed past the block. That little trim job was perfect. Let's give it some spray. What do you guys think? you gonna work? Only one way to find out.

Let's go ahead and get our tensioner installed. The bolts are on. See what she does. It's either gonna, it's gonna work or it's gonna break off.

I Mean those are our only two options. threading in and pickage. That's a victory guys. We got it Guys in.

it's on. It's tight, it's torqued. Threads are good. The insert repair was a success.

Yes, all right now. I Can bust off the timing belt, get this thing re-timed get the covers on. We're gonna put it back in the car. Finally, six months later I can fix the car I'm Subaru Technician Alrighty, let us get our timing marks set up and in position so we can see this little Notch right here on the Uh on the aluminum case.

and there's another little notch or an indent rather, or a line drawn right here on that uh on that gear. See it right there. so we need to line up that Gear with the notch. It's also got this little dot here to give us a reference point.

and there's the the keyway. the woodwork. Woodruff key. Excuse me, there's the Woodruff key down at the bottom of this gear and that's also going to be used as a reference.

Mark So we've got a vertical Mark We have uh, a vertical mark on the top and a vertical mark on the bottom. and if we compare to our diagram here, we can see Focus please. We can see the three tangs that are on that gear on the left hand side and three tanks on the right that matches the three tangs over here. one, two, three.

And then there's another three tangs on this side. one two, and three right there. So I Do believe that that is in the correct position. Let's double check our Woodruff key and we can see that that is keyed down and again on our diagram here.

there's a little square right there the key faces down, so our crank is currently in the correct position. So let's get this thing turned in and line up that Mark At that point, we have to line up the marks on our cams on both sides and then we can set up the uh, the belt assembly right here. And there's also marks on the Belt to help us align it. So we're just going to give this thing a little bit of a turn straight up and down that looks good.
Okay, now over here on our cams, we've got. It's actually two sets of marks. There's a there's a couple twin Marks here, two lines. This one has two lines indented into it, but someone has put some paint on that.

We have to line up those two marks in reference to our diagrams. Yeah, the diagram's got the two double marks pointing towards each other, so we need to line those guys up next and then we can start fitting the uh, the belt in position here. So oh, that one's still pretty loose. Yeah, this one's the same.

so we're good here. Let's line these guys up pointed towards each other and our mark on the left is pointed at that little Mark in the cover right there. and we can see that also corresponds to the marks on our on our paperwork. So let's start the belt.

We'll go up and over under the idler, over the crank, under the tensioner, and then we can set up the other side on the cams. So our belt also has a direction indicator because if we turn it backwards, the timing marks will not be correct. So the direction indicator is to point off to the right and this is also reflected on our diagram. Show what we're looking for is: we've got one mark.

There's a mark. There's a mark. there's one and one more right there. So I think we're going to go with this Mark which is supposed to line up with the top of the cam.

so we're just going to set that on, get it mocked up a little bit. The other mark is going to line up with this Mark right here on the cam and then we're going to run this down and under that idler. These Marks here line up with the dot and with the two notches. Okay So send that over top, get that in position under the tensioner like so and then over here at our cam.

We need to line up these marks. so I Think that cam is under some spring pressure or it will be. We need to get that guy set up and referenced with this notch on that. Mark Let's turn this cam and get those marks in position and they've got the double marks on the bottom just the same as uh as the other side.

I Believe we go right about there. let's turn that sum. it's good. and then down below can you guys see down there bottom cam? That's a negative.

Here you go. we've got our other Mark here on the belt and then this thing is out of phase a little bit. So I need to turn this cam so our double marks line up with the double marks on the other cam. So there's several several reference indicators for this engine and down here you guys can't see.
angle is all wrong for our dangle. But down here we've got our line on the belt referencing to the mark on that lower cam today. Don't go anywhere. Stop it.

Slip that guy back. Okay, that one's in good to go. Okay, so now we have to Route this belt around the rest of the pulleys and around these cams over here. Then we can pull the pin on our tensioner and lock this system down right there.

It's where we want it. Marks are lined up. let's put some tension on it, take away some slack from the rest of the belt and the belt goes over that idler. Then it's going to go under this geared idler close.

So what I need to do is I'm going to turn our left lower cam counterclockwise. that's going to pull on this section of the belt, this section of the belt, and then all the rest of it. and ultimately that will turn into some slack over here. so I can get this bottom gear in position how we gotta go or try something else.

It's gonna be tough to slip that thing in to do this a different way. Slide this one up and over so as I take away some of the slack and the rest of the belt. I should get the clearance here to slip this up and over. Let's double check our marks real quick before we finalize this.

So what we've got is that Mark's in position. That one's good. Two dots are lining up or a little out of alignment, but the belt's not on yet either. These two marks are in position.

Good, That's good. this one and that one that's actually a little off looking, but it does line up as best as possible. Then we've got this one and we are off a tooth on this cam down here. See that that's an error.

so we have to adjust this cam next. Redo: Let's pull this guy out. keeping some tension on this just a little bit. Oh I lost it.

Lost a can. Okay, no worries. Spin it back and do it again. Tighten it.

Pull some slack out that belt lined up. Get in there. get in the groove. All right.

That one's back on. Yeah, we're getting there. Okay, almost still have a bunch of slack in here somewhere pulling down with my wrench. There we go.

Now it's over. So real quick. Let's get everybody exactly in position. This is gonna pull slack.

See what I'm doing here? This is going to pull slack out of the line. so this is going to be our slack side. right? Here is our attention side. Okay, so that's in position.

We're rechecking the alignment of the whole system with its reference marks on the engine now. so that one's on. we're good there. That one's good, This one is good, and that one is good.

So everybody's where we're supposed to be. All right, let's pull the pin. Here we go. and that's that.

we have tension. It's anticlimactic, especially for its nickname of the grenade pin. So now what I want to do is we're just going to move this engine, roll it around a little bit, stop becoming loose. I want to kind of Wiggle the crank back and forth.
That way all the tension and the any looseness in the belt can be evenly distributed. There we go. That's what. I'm looking for a little bit more.

That way you want to make sure these all line up perfectly because these two were a little off and I didn't really care for it see that? But they all do line up with the marks on the belt so I'm pretty sure that's good. Didn't see they're good or it's not. Yeah, those are slightly off as well. Not much, but I can identify it with my micrometer.

So yeah, we're in time here. This is good. I Know that's not the greatest looking, but also if we move that we're going to be a whole tooth off. and according to these marks, we're we're on point here.

So double double, double single, single single single and these are in position so our timing is set up. We are good. Let's go ahead, get rid of the tool and now I can go ahead and get the uh, my covers and whatnot back in position. Okay, so this next part I'm gonna have fun with this because I've had these covers off of here for so long I Barely know where they go.

but I guess shapes and colors is gonna be my Saving Grace on this one. let's make sure the seal is in position here. Yeah, bottom seal is good too. Okay, let's get this thing fitted and bolted on.

Then we'll do our end covers. Get those guys in! I'm not really concerned about where the covers go I'm concerned about where the bolts go because I it's been so long I Don't know, but we'll start with uh I Guess what we know I know that that bowl and the other similar bolts with this little shank on them go inside of these holes. So we'll start with that. It's fine if I strip the holes out I got time certs so we're good I Know bad joke too soon that one's in the water pump.

That's good. Get this one up here I want that one right there. Here we go down below. it's a different kind of bowl, but it fits I'm no more over here.

This one up here has a broken off ear on the plastic. so I'm not going to put that bolt in. and I need one more for looks like over here that was a lot of gravity. That was a whole magnet tray full of fasteners.

It's not okay. Oh what happened here and none of those Fasteners are magnetic. Okay, water pump bolt don't need that. I bought new ones.

Okay, let's try this again. No, no, no, no I don't even know there. Okay, now it looks like we're putting the covers on. there's one.

So we used Law one long volt, two shorter ones for these covers. Okay, that explains those. Uh, those long bolts. There's one slide that guy in good, that one goes there Numero Trace good and one more cover on the other side.

Slide this guy up and over. Nice fit. Three fasteners. There we go.

Okay. Harmonic balancer slash crankshaft pulley. Let's get that guy in next with that socket. That's because it was a 22.
Foreign here is our crankshaft pulley and it also is keyed to fit that Woodrow key at the bottom of the crank. That way the pulley can't spin, it's So let me line that guy up with the key. That's good. That bolt back in, send it click.

Sweet guys, she's back together now. I've got the covers on. It's in time. The water pump's been replaced.

The broken timing tensioner bolt inside the cover has been replaced. We put a rear main seal on it. My engine stand is actually in use over here. Troy's got it with an S10 say hi Troy bye see how the engine stand is in use? We've got an S10 uh out of the vehicle or the engine out of the vehicle.

It's a four-cylinder S10 Uh, horrendous oil pan leak in the back and the book says you have to pull the motor out to change the oil pan gasket and that's because that pan. See that? see the drop in that pan right there that sits right on top of the K-member right here so you cannot get the thing out. You can't lift the engine up enough because it runs into the firewall and since this is a four cylinder, we just went ahead and pulled the thing out just to uh just to make life a little bit easier and to make sure we can reseal this pan properly. There will be one major modification though to this.

Uh, the problem is is this thing comes with cork gaskets and I hate cork cork is not a long-term solution I Was not able to locate a non-cork gasket for this oil pan. so instead of using that, I'm just going to have one made out of the right stuff Not sponsored. That's just what I use. This is really good stuff.

It's basically going to be a glue that seals this pan together. So we're just going to replace the cork gasket with the Permatex Right Stuff RTV sealant because this is better than that and that's what I'm going to use. This stuff did not exist when this stuff was in use. so that's why we're uh, we're upgrading it because gravity because I do not want to do this oil pan job again and I know Troy does not want to do this old painted job again.

right? You learn something. Is it? you don't like it? Is it fun? Yeah, yeah, it's it's heavy Line work he doesn't want to do it actually. I'll rephrase. it's not a Jeep so he doesn't want to do it.

Hey, if I take a Sawzall and I cut Seven slots in the front of this will you? Will you feel better about working on it? Tell the people what do you think? Yeah, yeah, yeah, you got a Jeep problem. We're working on that. We're working on his Jeep problems. Oh and the Transmissions over there on the stand.

I Also figured it was going to be easier to just pull that trans out uh in chassis before we pulled the motor out. And it was. it was. It took like an extra hour or so, but it did work out more.

Better or so, we just decided to pull the whole drivetrain out and then my bride idea I see this with no engine and I Go! Hey, this would be a great candidate for a V8 swap. and then I thought about maybe I should buy that and then I went. No. I'm pulling a Troy don't buy it, don't buy it on impulse walk away.
Well that's not my project, that's someone else's project walk away. So yeah, I'm not gonna buy that. I wanted it though. I wanted to do a V8 swap in an S10 but yeah, I'm not gonna do it anyway.

guys. uh, we're all set with this. We're almost all set with that over there. So uh, next phase of this Subaru is uh, I need to get the engine stand back.

get this on the stand. We're gonna flip her over. We're gonna pop that oil pan off, reseal the oil pan. Then we're probably gonna take this outside and pressure wash it just to get all the schmoo off of here and all the nasty and the build up and the runoff and everything else.

We're going to clean all that stuff off and then at some point I'll be able to push that Ruba suit back into the shop. There she is over there. I'll put it back into the shop and we can get that thing back into its home and then maybe back on the road one day. So I haven't said all that guys.

I'm gonna go ahead and close this video out. right now it's starting to rain. it's getting late in the day. I'm gonna start packing it up so uh as always like thank you guys for watching this video.

Certainly hope you enjoyed this video. If You all rain if you did enjoy this video, please let me know about that in the comment section down below. Do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there and most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day! See you guys later in the video into Subaru Engine repair in the transmission.

97 thoughts on “Soft metal! engine damage! subaru legacy outback awd 2.5 dohc ej25”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Captain Scarlet says:

    I am waiting for Ray to do an S10! I almost made it with this one except Troy did the work, not Ray, and therefore isn't recording the work. Does anyone know what year the S10 is? I have a 1997 4-cyclindeer, automatic and it's in very good condition, no body rot at all in the rust belt! I had a 1995 S10 2.2L (same engine) 5-speed and loved it but the frame literally fell apart, the frame midway back was totally rusted-out.

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Christopher Anderson says:

    I subscribe and follow all your videos that come up on my YouTube but for some reason I don’t get them all. Seems strange because it should and it obviously effects the amount of likes you are receiving. I recommend bringing this to YouTubes attention.

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Casmige says:

    Old-School Grey-Hair here, We Would've Could've & You SHOULD'VE done it all in Chassis.

    Eazy-Peazy Nice & Squeezy.

    Why pull the engine??

    Oh that's right: Because you can & of course More Labour Hours.

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars twosence fromcleveland says:

    Did you say you're drilling into the water jacket? If so, why didn't you control you debris?

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars midgetrace says:

    A machinist drills the hole once no in and out reaming. The time serts are great but known for going all the way down the insert tool so we do exactly what you did with a second time sert However we put the extra sert upside down on the tool so the 2 heads meet each other.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars midgetrace says:

    Option #3 no sealant into the water jacket = leaks

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars 44 Hawk says:

    Put a jam nut on that installation tool. That way it will force it down into position. That particular installation tool was not made for that particular application.

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars 44 Hawk says:

    I now must say something. I have seen you use blue Loctite on things that should have read Loctite a number of times. But whenever you're putting a Time-Sert, especially into soft aluminum. You should be using red Loctite. If you expect it to be permanent I would use green Loctite because it will never ever come back out of there. Why you are so afraid of red Loctite. Example, every single time you put flexplate bolts into a torque converter, they should have red Loctite. When you put brakes together like caliper bolts they should have red Loctite. The new orange works fine because it supposed to have the same strength. Red Loctite for something that must stay tight, yet still be serviceable. If it is expected to be permanent. Where you are never going to remove that particular set of threads, a tiny bit of green Loctite is King it will not come apart without Heat.
    I have found very little things where blue Loctite is actually applicable. It allows the bolt, or the threads to come loose relatively easily. Look at some of the test specifications on blue Loctite red Loctite and green there are no test specifications I've never seen anybody be able to remove a bolt that had green Loctite on it. But I've never seen a bolt that isn't supposed to be serviceable. A Time-Sert however, is not supposed to be removable.

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Lee Ketner says:

    Wow. Looks like subaru motors r a pain to work on. I don't turn wrenches anymore , although i don't want to own a vehicle that is a pain to work on.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Lee Ketner says:

    That's a Subaru motor ? Did they take notes from v.w. bug motor ? Damn

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars monomille1 says:

    Nice to see how the sausage is really made vice the usual polished YT perfect vid

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars SaltyCracker402 says:

    My dream vehicle is a manual ls swapped s10! Some day I'll buy or build one

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Gerard Jones says:

    talk to a machinist for some tips on fundamentals and slow down.
    you picked up bad habits working against the clock at dealerships.

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Randalface says:

    You can get timesheets locally at Baum Tools in Sarasota.

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Eric John Highton says:

    Also Ray put grease on the drill and tap to stop metal swarf from dropping inside the engine….only trying to help Ray…..

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Eric John Highton says:

    Slipped up there Ray why did you not put a nut on the insertion tool and lock it off against the insert….😢

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars J Eggleston says:

    To install your thread insert, use two M10x1.25 nuts on your insert install tool. Put the nuts on, then your insert. Thread the nuts down against the insert and tighten the nuts against each other. That will serve as that lock or stopper that you wanted.

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jonathan Graziano says:

    Shoulda used 2 nuts on the tap to stop the insert

  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David Sparks says:


  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Theodor Giosan says:

    Subaru threads have been soft forever. On my daily driver 79 DL Wagon, I never use any power tools on the engine or transmission, because it's so easy to strip out a hole.

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Les Curtis says:


  22. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars JJHoover70 says:

    Factory should put steel insert in the aluminum blocks and heads

  23. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Stephen Price says:

    Hey Ray I've got a question. What would be the best way to replace the oil pan and gasket on a 2001 crown victoria? I've seen a few different methods online but can't find any videos on the job and I figured if anybody would know it'd be you. Thanks in advanced!

  24. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars andrew imray says:

    I dont know why you went through all the fuss of ordering taps etc when by all accounts you could have used an egg whisk, or even a pencil 😂

  25. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Graham Millar says:

    Ray, may I make an observation on using Thread Wire inserts ? Be certain of your drill speed. A 10mm drill bit in alloy, requires a speed of 2500 r/m, which Battery drills cannot do, so use a corded, which can. Secondly, if possible, use a three flute drill. They are expensive, but very effective in cutting a hole in thin walled alloy. If at all possible, especially if the bit is new, sharpen it New bits cut .0001/.00015 oversize, and you need all the bulk material you can.
    Thanks and good luck with your project and your business

  26. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Michael Achilles says:

    If you fill the hole with grease it won't allow the shavings to go inside

  27. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars kenthatfr says:

    Troy's my kind of people. Jeep forever.

  28. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars HoldenIron says:

    Ray….I hate to say this Ray but Im very disappointed in your work there. Ive watched you everyday for over a year and told countless people about you and your dedication to detail and doing quality work, you always seem to go the extra mile. You should have removed that cracked insert and re did it right. It may be alright down the road but it might not. You seemed frustrated with it after all this time and was ready to be done with it and it showed. Not fixing that insert was something some mechanic might do that causes mechanics to get a bad name. For Petes sake the motor wasnt even in the car it was on the bench and so easy to work on. Dont be trifling Ray. Its easy to do good work when things are easy but the real test is doing good work when things are hard. Ill be looking forward to your next video as always.

  29. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Daniel Heartsill says:

    I am shocked at Subaru making something so tender on their engines. As long as they have been making that type engine I would thank that would never happen.

  30. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jeepz says:

    Am I wrong? Is that insert not purposely tapered so the bolt doesn’t go any farther out the other side and in to the cavity since the bolt is already designed to be the correct length?

  31. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jason A says:

    Ray looking forward to more videos on the 93 F150.

  32. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars James Sargent says:

    Ray, your drills armature is out of center. You can see it wobbling on the close in shot. P.S change the thermostat [those bolts love to brake because of electrolysis] good job 2all! your cooling system servant 🥶 🐲

  33. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Doe says:

    You cold have just replaced that piece!! It would have been cheaper then the insert and tap. 😊

  34. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars FordBoi302 says:

    Powertools or not, sometimes threads are just plain fudged. They could be fudged from the factory or previous repairs. As someone who works on lots of old outboards and Japanese cars, I'm accustomed to bolt holes not cooperating. Gotta do what you gotta do and not sweat it! I'm sitting here waiting for Lee to hit us, its probably 70 miles offshore and the eye is about to pass maybe 5 miles from my house. Power just came on so I figured I'd get some Ray videos down before we lose power again.

  35. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Keith Neilson says:

    Hi Ray you may want to invest in a small pillar drill for the workshop , drilling and tapping is much better done in a vertical plane ,also much more accurate .

  36. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Trail Driving says:

    Man talk about a cursed engine

  37. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Steve-Legion says:

    Hey Ray, why would you blow the metal shards into the engine block? You just said if you were to punch through the hole with the drillbit that you would damage other components wouldn't metal shards cause even greater damage? Why not suck it out instead of using shop air to push it in? Just asking

  38. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jonathan Hess says:

    Ah yes, the art of taking a simple task and complicating it in a multitude of exciting and different ways.

  39. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bob Carroll says:

    Before you lock tight it test fit it.

  40. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Maxx Michael says:

    use the gasket maker with the cork..

  41. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David Weaver says:

    Ray. Please learn to drill slowly. Your drill will go slowly, normally has a high/low speed switch somewhere on it. Full send doesn't work on aluminiumununununum. Also most importantly, get yourself a set of LEFT HAND DRILLS. They make drilling out broken fasteners easy peasy. Hopefully, you learn from this, as I hate screaming "Slowly… Slowly" at the tablet, as my wife unit looks at me as though I am insane. Keep up the good work. Cheers, Dave in the UK 🇬🇧 👍

  42. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars gerald harkness says:

    note to self,do not own a subaru! alloy way to soft

  43. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Eldon Howard says:

    My momma would say, "It's raining like a cow pissing on a flat rock." She grew up in a farm in Oklahoma. 😃

  44. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars SimiNelsonFamily says:

    What is the book time for a Subaru water pump job?

  45. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Dave Smith says:

    You can clearly see the top of the insert is broke.

  46. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Stephen Coons says:

    I have been behind on my daily Ray videos’ about caught up now. After this Subaru escaped I can honestly say it’s not my first choice of vehicles as a DYI option. My buddy has one and he has a habit of asking me to pick him up each time in town as he drops it off at the dealership for something. Ray, thanks for the education on the inserts, it’s been a long time since I used them.

  47. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Weldoholic says:

    Pro tip while flush grinding steel to aluminum- when the sparks go away you’re only hitting the aluminum

  48. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars peter daughtrey says:

    A word of Caution writing estimates on Vintage autos. Expect the Worse. Much easier to reduce the Total , than ask for More.

  49. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Scott says:

    You carnt see due to the video is parsiley obstructions