Hello everybody, Good day to you and welcome back! Glad you guys are here We are returning to this Infinity FX35 With a 3.5 liter. It came to us with a Bank 2 exhaust camshaft position circuit fault or an actual camshaft position fault I actually forget the definition of the code I Do know it was a P Zero, Zero One four and the thing just stalled. Now we left off uh, on a parts hold with this particular car at 118 604 miles on the odometer. I Ended up pulling the car out of the shop.

why aren't you gonna start? We put it back together some, pulled it out and parked it and wait and knew and waiting for our parts they had to come from. Dubai I Had to order the magnetic clutch actuator retarder mechanism. It's part of the plate that goes in the front of the engine that actuates the variable valve timing on the exhaust side of these camshafts. It's got four camshafts two on each side, uh, two intake, two exhaust cams and they're retarder mechanism on the bank too I think was inoperative.

So like I said, we tossed the Uh the cover back on just to be able to start the engine and pull the car out and now I have received a replacement cover. So we're going to noser back in and get that new cover reinstalled which is going to come with the magnetic retarder actuator. Then we can get this thing back out on the road and see if she still stalls and see if we are getting our trouble code and and all that good stuff. So let me swing this non-power steering equipped vehicle on in and we'll get going.

The reason that the power steering is inoperative is all the engine accessories are still removed. We had to pull a bunch of bracketry and whatnot off this car in order to get that cover removed and when I realized I had to pull it back out like I said, we just slapped the cover on there and then drove it out so none of the other accessory stuff is connected. So that being said, power this thing down I'm pretty sure I can handle this without the need of a lift at this point in time. So next up we shall pop in the hood and let's get started opening.

Z Hood Oh look who that guy is. All right, rolling on out to the stall here. we've got our replacement part uh, in hand. kind of.

It's in a box on my cart. This is a branded Hitachi part. You can tell it's original and it's OE spec because it does say Hitachi on the inside. There are fake Parts out there that replace this that do exist.

They're about the tenth of the cost of the actual part and considering how important this component is. Uh, we have chosen to purchase the actual component and not the aftermarket replacement, so this is our cover. It comes with a camshaft actuator, solenoid for the bank one, and then this connector Right here is the wire connector that runs to the electromagnet, which is supposed to engage the friction surface on the end of the exhaust camshaft to change the timing of said camshaft. So the ECM sends power to the magnet, magnet, locks up the clutch, then the camshaft position changes, and then you get variable valve timings.

So this component was in fact our issue. Now, these do not ship with replacement gaskets. I'm going to use the gasket that came on that car because the gasket that comes with it is not available I Cannot get one. It is okay.

that's a metal gasket. It will be fine I am able to reuse it. It will not be a problem. So having said all that disclaimer is over with.

let's go get under the hood and get started here. Okay, let us return to the under hood area of this particular Infiniti 3.5 So we've already seen the disassembly of these components earlier in the last video. If You guys happen to miss the last video I Will leave a link to it down inside of this Video subscription below and you'll be able to go back in time and take a look at uh at what we had previously done. Uh, Having said all that, I'm just going to go ahead and move through this very quickly with a minimized narration.

We want to get this cover back off and removed and then unclick. Then we can. uh, get the new one slapped into position here. We'll get this guy back together and on the road again.

We're gonna have to do a Highway test drive on this if we do not immediately see the stalling condition that it suffered from earlier. Take it out on the on the highway because my customer had stated that the majority of the failure occurred at highway speed. so they had some work done. They would drive around.

everything would be fine for uh for a while and then it would. uh, it would fail and the light would come on again on the interstate. I Think that's uh I think that was all of them there. Maybe one more down here? No.

I Don't feel anymore? Yeah, we're good there. Okay, a little bit of pry bar action on the back side of this unit. just like last time. It's got those alignment pegs in there that get us hung up and just like the last time I forgot and missed one of the bolts going back in.

Uh, it's leaking. We're leaking all right. Cover, come uncovered. There we go and that right there.

That's our friction plate for our exhaust cam. So we've got an intake cam uh with the timing chain that runs down to the crank. Then this cam is driven off of a smaller chain that runs off of the intake cam. The intake cams valve timing actuation is done with an Electronics oil control solenoid.

so it sends oil pressure into this, uh, this actuator and that's what changes the position that is different than the exhaust side which uses this clutch friction plate type of business right here. So it's got two different ways to accomplish the same thing. Okay, let's go in real quick and give this surface a good wipe down. Make sure that there is no debris on there since I am going to have to reuse that gasket I'm going to put a very, very very light film of sealant on that gasket surface simply because it is a gas to get this being reused and if there are any little surface flaws in it.

I Would really prefer that they did not leak because this this actuator cover was actually kind of hard to get to because of all the brackets that were in the way of one bolt down here at the bottom. So we're totally gonna make sure this thing is not going to leak. Plus, there's oil that has to pass through that seal in order to get to the actuator manifold to send oil pressure into our intake camshaft over here. So that's actually critical that oil passes through and does not leak.

So we need to definitely get some sealant on that surface just a little bit though. it actually might seal just fine and it probably will seal just fine without sealant. but I'm not taking chances here on this I leave nothing to doubt. There we go.

Now we need to come on over and prep our new cover. One thing to notice: See that alignment pin right there. that dowel pin and that one there. Those things came out with the cover and they did not stay in the cylinder head.

so we need to punch these out and then transfer them over to the new cover or punch them out and put them in the block. I'll probably just put them in this new cover and that'll be that. So we're going to take this, pumps this hammer and this part right here, and head over to the bench, check out the wall. It's nice and shiny.

We cleaned it and painted it yesterday. All right. So we're at the Vise here. Let's go ahead, let's inspect how this is going to work out.

I Think I'm gonna punch these this way. That's what I'll do. So we're gonna run that guy in. get our punch on the end right here.

The key is going to be not losing this once. I Knock it out, Got it? There's one Now we're gonna take this and put we're gonna knock it in straight away here. very carefully. There we go.

and then pin number two a little harder. Where's my punch? Oh right in front of me. Silly raid you guys can't see. Also silly Ray I am terrible Camera man foreign I Know we're removing it but in the way that I am hey pins on the ground I got our pin.

Let's get this. Uh, this one's driven home and then we should be in good shape and I think it went right here. Give her around some just gonna tap it on in there that went in very Loosely Do that. No worries I'll have to just tap this into the block when we get over there.

Okay, we need to cut this guy off that's designed to keep this magnet from flopping around in there and it also held in some padding to prevent something from damaging the face of that friction magnet. Okay, gasket coming into place. we're gonna use those dowel marks, get that in position and there is a super duper light film of sealant on the uh, back side of this gasket right here. I Mean extremely light.

like almost not even existent light, but just enough to fill up any voids should they happen to be present. There we go. All right. Super light film of sealant has also been applied.

There's no overflow and spill, age and extra that's going to smear out and get into the oil system. It is so minimal that uh I don't think it'll be a problem and it will definitely help if there are any flaws in this metal gasket which I don't think there are. this is kind of Overkill but this is just one of those jobs and it's going to get the overkill treatment. So let's get this cover back in position on our car and we'll get her bolted in and then torque down here.

One more quick wipe down just to make sure there's no oil that ran out and it's going to contaminate my Surface feels good. Oh, speaking of oil, I Need to collect some and lubricate these little gasket seals right here. There we go. So now I've got my pin in position here.

There's one pin. there's the other pin. Let's start getting this thing lined up and we'll Bolter down. Forgive my lack of commentary.

this is, uh, requiring a little bit of concentration here. Let's get a bolt into it. Day day pins are kind of supporting it right now. there we go.

Get one down at the bottom. We're gonna do a quick restart on this after this thing is bolted down and I'm going to let her run for a little while and we're just going to confirm right away that that stalling condition that we just witnessed when we went to restart this is no longer present. My bolt holes are not aligned. see why we put all the bolts in before applying any torque.

That is why the thing was slightly off just a wee bit and it prevented that other Bolt from going in. that one's in, that one's in, that one's in. and I got one more right here There we go Good! So let's get in there with our ratchet and start applying some torque. Now that all the bolts are started, that bottom one click.

Very nice. It's seated down very well and I think I'm missing one Fastener right right down there. Yeah, yeah, there's one one that I'm short see if I can't feel that hole. it's hiding out underneath that oil actuator.

I hope it threads I tightened it down all the the other studs here. bolts. Yep, that one's ready good and let's get that guy kind of torqued up a little bit. Beautiful.

Alrighty, let's get this thing plugged in and that should be sufficient to make the valve timing system operate and function so we can test it out. If all is well, we can go ahead and get the rest of the accessories. Uh, very connected to this engine. Okay, we're looking good looking good.

That's all looking good. Let's go back in the cabin, restock the engine. Alrighty, let's see what she does here. Beginning: Engine starting re-sequence Now those words were out of sequence.

All right. Well, it's live. Let's give it some throttle action. Oh I Have the mass airflow disconnected.

Hang on a second, folks. bear with me minor oversight: The mass airflow sensor is required so the ECM knows how much air has come into the engine and without those measurements being accurate. uh, it won't run there trying again restarting the engine. Now it should be fine.

Well, it did install it. That's good. Okay. Engine running throttle? Okay, super noticeable.

Improvement I'm good with that. So let's go ahead and get our brackets and belts reassembled and installed back on this car. and then we'll take it out on the road, hit the highway, get some major speed going. Well, not major speed, but we'll get some speed up here.

And then, uh, once we do that, we can, uh, finalize, Uh, the success of this particular repair. But first, I need to get rid of all that oil that we just spilled down there. With that cover being removed, make it nice and shiny shinier than it is. basically.

I'm just getting rid of the oil drainage here. Goodbye. All right, No need to waste an entire can. Okay, let us now get our bracket in position.

This is the one that holds the idler pulley and the tensioner. So let's get that guy set up near its home. There, we'll start the bolts on it and then we can get this bracket for the power steering attached. This one actually sandwiches that bracket on so we cannot put this one on until we have that bracket installed here.

What I'm thinking is we'll start with some of the bolts on this other side here. Let's get those guys kind of fitted in position. There's one should be a second larger one down below it. got that one in good.

Okay, so now over here. on this side. That's where it gets good. You can see way down in that hole.

There's two bolt holes all the way way back there. Those two bolt holes. Those are the holes for these two bolts on this bracket. With these two bolts, those guys were a real bear to get out and I fear putting them back in because I Also know this is going to be somewhat arduous and difficult.

It's got to happen either way, so there's no sense in hiding from it. But uh, it's not something I'm really excited to have to accomplish here. So what I'll do is I will start with the big bolt that sandwiches in both of these plates right here. We'll get that one threaded in and that's going to help to just locate and align this bracket right here.

That's kind of gonna going to be my problem. so I'm going to hand tighten this down all the way. That's going to take away all that slop that's in this bracket. and Hope I'll be able to nudge in and squeeze those other two bolts in on the back side without too much grief.

I Mean, there's going to be some grief here. Don't get me wrong, I'm just trying to make this as a simple as possible on myself. so we've got three bolts on our first big bracket kind of set up. This one is loose because I still need to be able to move around my bracket in question, so that's slightly loose.

Now for the hard part: getting these in inside of those holes way back there, one of them is going to be okay I can kind of reach it, but the other the farther one in the back. That's going to be difficult because there's a some kind of a bracket or a shield right here between the exhaust and the alternator. and that thing is prohibiting me from reaching in and getting, uh, getting a good access to that other bolt way way way way way down there. You guys see that.

So here's the tactic. We're going to take this Wobble 14 and we're going to run down the bolt that I already got in almost all the way like. So then I'm gonna reach way way back in there and try to drop this other bolt down into its hole which is behind this bracket I know y'all can't see and I dropped it. Okay, that's fine.

I can see it, it's down there. I'll fish it out with a magnet. Okay, round two. same thing.

Try again. I'm gonna reach around and grab that bracket I'm going to try to get both sides of the bolts because if I can get it over to that hole, I can just kind of give it a push. I'm barely hanging on to this thing guys and it's in the hole on the bracket. See it right in there.

I Don't even know if you all can see? Yeah, probably not. It's super dark in there anyway. I've got the little bolt started here. kind of very much.

kind of. I don't I don't know I think I feel the thread starting I'm turning it see if she hooks up. y'all see it back there. it's uh, it's way back there.

Yep, all right. I'm back on that rear bolt again. it started to thread. So I've achieved the most difficult part and I've gotten all three of these bracket bolts in, uh, in their position.

So now I just need to get everything tight. Okay, coming in with a shallow socket, wobble on an extension electric ratchet. We need to maneuver this assembly around and behind this alternator bracket to get it onto that rear bolt back there. which I got it.

There She Goes Beautiful. It's all about those tactics and Nick action. That one's tight. Drive it around the corner again.

we'll get that front bolt I Know you guys can't see down there. I'm really sorry this is. Close Quarters Combat all day. Get that one tight.

Now we've got the ones in the front to tighten up and once those guys have achieved some torque, then we can get the rest of these accessories bolted together. But not until I Get this ratchet. there. we go.

Gotcha. Okay, Next, we've got three more 14s. Let's get these guys all run down. That one's good.

that one here we go. and now I need to apply some manual torque with the big uh, the bigger ratchet coming in extra long ratchet for leverage and we'll get these guys tight. That's click action. next one at the bottom down there.

that guy tight one up top and then we can throw on that power steering pump. There we go. look at that thing set up and in position next. So pull this guy up, set it in its little Groove at the bottom of its bracket.

wiggle that guy in, get that thing started and threaded. that's our upper Bolt and then the uh, the knower bolt. Believe it has to pass through and right through here. All right going down.

Let's get that larger bottom ball threaded and tight. This is for our power steering and a little bit more. there's some quick action. Next we'll get our 12 mil I think it's that one.

We'll get that guy tight and then we can get the tensioner and the belts on 12 coming in for our upper bracket bolt. that's a click. There we go. Okay, let's move over here to the other side.

Maybe we can see what we're trying to see a little bit better that right there. That's the uh, the screw hole or the bolt hole rather, or the tensioner bolt. You see this other hole right here that is designed to align with this pin on the back of this tensioner body. That way the tensioner cannot rotate as it is applying tension to the belt.

So we need to align that pin up and we need to align the bolt hole and then get that guy started. Just like so again, coming down with the electron ratchet and a 14.. then we will finish it off with our manual ratchet. That's good.

Now we'll get our ribbed face, idler pulley, same thing. run it down, tighten it up. There we go and a little bit of torque, pick for good measure. Okay, let's get the belts on next.

Here's a fun little tip. Do you see those two little ears right there with the holes in the middle of them on this tensioner? Watch this here. What we do, We get our ratchet on that tensioner and go ahead and untension it. See that and we can take like a drill bit or a screwdriver, put it through those holes and that will stay the tensioner so we can route the belt properly.

I Gotta use something good there. If you use something cheap, it'll break off and uh, that will cause you a world of Curt which would be bad, we don't want to do that. So anyway. I'm going to run this belt over the power steering under the tensioner Over The Idler Down over the AC under that smooth face eye, lurk right there to the right You guys see I see yep, smooth face idler and then right there that's AC compressor and I don't think I have this routed correctly because I have extra belts.

Maybe she goes I know how this goes, it's gonna go um I don't know how this goes I have I have forgotten? Okay, after a quick review of the Google I have realized the error of my ways here: I have that in the wrong position. This does not go under our tensioner. from the top side, it's supposed to run straight across. So from the smooth or The ribbed Idler to the power steering that goes straight then camera gravity, then we could wrap it around and go over the tensioner.

So my error is happening down here on the bottom. so we're just going to slip that up and over. the tensioner begins slipping. Now about get on there.

This is why it's good. The temperature is locked back. This might be hard without locking it into place. So now that can go for camera gravity.

So we go over the tensioner. then it comes over here around that smooth face idler. Then we wrap it around the crank with maximum exposure to the crankshaft. That's always key towards determining the routing of your belts.

Now with this mostly all in place, you can reach it back and go around that AC compressor which is being a little stubborn here. Hang on. we're running out of Slack Oh, by the way, that annoying ringer sound you guys hear in the background. That's the uh, the masonry guys.

They're cutting. uh, like quartz or slab or quartz slabs or granites for countertops or something like that. Today's their cutting day I Wish they weren't here chopping away, but they are. So anyway, we've got all this belt, uh, in position.

mostly. We need to get the tool back on the tensioner, give it a little bit more slack, recover our screwdriver, and then slit this over top of that group pulley, and we're good here. Okay, we're coming in with our wrench. gonna get that back onto the tensioner.

We're gonna give her a tug in the upward Direction and we're gonna drop the camera. Let me recover you guys man. I'm all about your fingers. No stop it.

Gravity pull, pull. Oh wow. I Suck at my job here. I'll put a tool on top of it there now.

it can't go anywhere now. Pull that guy up, get our screwdriver, back, release tension, and this belt is now installed. Hooray! And as a bonus, we can use the screwdriver here to pop that ratchet off the tensioner. There we go, got her? Okay, let's get out of our hole here and move on to the easy part.

Let us slap our uh intake box back together, plug the mass airflow in, tighten the clamps, and uh, we'll hit the road air box coming back in, that's tight. There's an eight mil on the clamp, tighten that down, and of course we have our connector and our wire connector clip. let us drop in our air filter next, and clip that guy into position like so and so. And then we've got a plastic cover over top of the radiator core and then our engine cover will go on last.

Okay, so far so good. All right. Now that our Hood's all shut up, let's get inside of this car so we don't have to listen to that concrete noise all day. It's a lot better.

I Brought the scanning device with me. She's already powered on. Uh, what we're going to do is plug her in and we're going to take note of those trouble codes one more time if they're still in there. I Know that there's more because I started the car with the uh, mass airflow sensor disconnected.

So what we're going to do is just clear all those guys out. Key on. We'll clear all these codes out of this thing. Then we go out and hit the road for our test drive.

scrolling down: 09 Infiniti FX 3.5 liter No No No linking up 118 000 miles according to the VIN decoder and our odometer waiting. Continuing: Hurry up and wait. Hurry up and wait. No No no please.

I'm gonna go and start this. Gonna need climate control because it's getting hot outside. AC A little bit of fan speed. There we go.

Okay, we're in. Let's go to trouble codes and code menu. Uh, actuator circuit. That's all the stuff we got.

unplugged mass airflow intake, sand camshaft. Yep, there's our P14. that's when we started with right there. Let's go ahead and just back all this business.

Right on out of here and we're going to clear those trouble codes. Performing code clear, Watch our check engine light turn off right now. Good to go. Codes are cleared so power down, restart, and back into our code menu.

NADA No codes present. Let's give it some throttles here looking good. Okay okie Dokie all of our trouble codes are cleared. I Just went and rechecked a bunch of data.

All of our timing data looks good so far. Let's get her out on the road here and uh, get a load on this engine. Go drive it. See ya, See how she responds and reacts.

We'll check her power band, We'll check the uh, the stalling condition. uh when coming up to a stop and we will see about that check engine light coming on at higher speeds. I'm not going to go to the interstate interstate. there is a bigger Road I can achieve some speed on so we will just accelerate on our bigger State Road not the interstate highway system.

Let me get the gate. We'll get on the way. all right, traffic's clear. Let's uh, hit the road here and see how this thing's gonna ride.

Feels Pretty strong I think we're in good shape, good shift, hipper, and our D cell. this is where I noticed it was happening right when we would come to a stop. no engine load. it would want to go and stumble right here I hadn't done it yet.

Okay, what we're gonna do is make a right up here. We're gonna go up over the bridge Full Speed Ahead and on our D cell side at the next light, we're gonna check again for uh, for that stalling bit of business. If we don't get it and there's no stalling and stumbling, we'll keep going. We'll ride down a couple miles and then ride back just to make sure.

Well, of course we're gonna ride back. We can't unleave the shop, can't just go that way and then not come back. So yeah, we gotta come back. Hello shop, goodbye shop.

Full speed, strong little engine. This is all D cell right here. No throttle or high RPM low load. That means our camshaft should be changing positions and we're not seeing anything.

Uh, all failing yet good. We are approaching our first red light of this session. no throttle, not touching it and we're gonna just ease right on in here to a stop. And if we're gonna stall out, she should want to do it right now.

Smooth. Awesome. Okay, while we're here, pull the scanner back out and we're gonna recheck for pending trouble codes and we have NADA All right. So far so good.

Let's proceed with our test drive. All right, we're down the road. We came to a stop I'm gonna flip the U-turn here. Just pulled up a scan tool data again and we still have no trouble codes present.

So I am confident in this uh, this particular repair. We're going to go ahead and flip this thing around. I'm gonna head back to the shop. uh, there is some other uh, steering and slash suspension work on this thing.

It's got a leaking power steering rack and it also has I think a leaking CV axle boot on the uh on the driver's side here. No I'm not getting dirt all over the all over the interior by the way. I have washed my hands but they're they're kind of stained and I got to get in there with a good brush and like a green scrubby pad to get all this uh, all this oil and whatnot out of there. so no I'm not putting gross fingerprints on there.

Nice interior. it's just I'm stained and this is not so don't worry about that anyway. I Will end that particular tangent I'm headed back to the shop. We're gonna go ahead and park it I need to, uh, move forward with some of those other repairs.

Let me know down inside of this video's comment section if you would like to, see the axle job on this particular. Infinity So that being said, I'm going to go ahead and close this video all right now. I Will do such things as always by thanking each and every one of you guys for watching this video. I Certainly hope you enjoyed this video.

If you did enjoy this video, Please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below. Do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there and most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day! Infinity Full Speed Ahead Yeah, Nice power. See you guys later in the video. End of Infinity into Transmission Yeah!.