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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to

So much oil. It's everywhere and on everything. Look at that dripping off the bell housing. It's on the exhaust.

It's on the cylinder heads. It's on the air conditioner, subframe, oil pan, more exhaust motor mounts. It's gonna take gallons of brake clean to clean this off cat converter that's covered in it. Man, it's not okay.

Hello viewers, Good day to you and welcome back I Am Raymond And this is raised repairs. We are sitting in a 2014 Chrysler 200 model. This vehicle was towed in on a flatbed tow truck a couple days ago with 68 473 miles on The odometer. Customer had stated there's a massive engine oil leak and that it had overheated and he thinks that it blew up some coolant or coolant hose or something of that nature.

Now we push this thing into the shop because it did have an Exxon Valdez oil slick behind it on the tow truck. So we have chosen not to start Z engine and run this. We already have it inside of the shop. It's up on the lift, the hood is open.

Let's go down below and inspect for our Exxon Valdez style oily. Here in our engine compartment, we have yet another appearance of the 3.6 liter Pentastar engine. One of the unique features about this particular engine is the engine oil cooling system. If we look right here, this little cap is the oil filter housing and if we look past that way down in the hole there we're going to see a bunch of liquid.

inside of the valley. there's a looks like oil, maybe some coolant, maybe some coolant, and oil. Either way, something down inside of this engine under the intake manifold has sprung a massive leak and we've run out of oil. and we've run out of cooling mostly.

Yeah, that engine oil level is super low. I Hope this engine survived. My customers stated that while it was running, it did not lose oil pressure and start making noise. So we're going to take your word for it.

I'm not going to start it I'm not going to run it. What we're going to do is pull this intake manifold off and see what blew up down there. So stay tuned because this it's going to be a very good video openings. Hood Oh look who that guy is.

Okay, so we already have the replacement component ordered and unboxed mostly. We have a cooler assembly that goes in that Valley This is our oil filter adapter right here with the trans or with the oil cooler. There is coolant and engine oil that is pumped through this manifold device right here. It came with a whole set of new gaskets to seal this unit and it's got a really, really nice orange high visibility cap.

I've never seen one of these guys that has the uh, the cap on it. This happens to be a Dorman Park This is a known issue with these Factory components. The originals are actually made out of plastic and they have a remarkably High failure rate. So Dorman has elected to make one out of past aluminum and it is supposed to solve this problem.

The reason that we went with this higher end component as opposed to uh, the Mopar version is in the vehicle. That is the second one of these uh oil filter housing slash oil cooler assemblies that has been been replaced on this exact car. It's a and a star thing. That's just what they do.
Also in the Box here we have gotten or received a replacement filter. So the way this system works is this filter is going to snap into our cap and then that goes down into the filter body and then screws in after we put the O-ring on of course, which since we're here I Guess I'll just do that right now that way. I Don't forget, if you don't have this o-ring then this cap will leak everywhere, especially on an aluminum housing. So you've got to put the O-rings on the oil filter caps and that goes for any cartridge style oil filter.

The O-ring is what makes the seal, not the tightness of the cap. It's going to go in like so and it wants to torque down. The O-ring makes the seal and that is that we're going to hold off on that point or on that. I'm tightening this for right now I Want to get everything in position down there and mocked up before.

uh before we finalize everything. Plus I'm going to blow this out with a bunch of air just to make sure that there's no dirt and debris or contaminants things of that nature inside of the system. That nature none were found I Blew it out with some air. So what we need to do next is slap some of these little gaskets in here.

These are going to be the seal for this cooler block, uh, device right here. and then this guy ultimately will become bolted onto the top of this manifold and I think these are the Fasteners So I suppose let me just go ahead and get this installed right now. It looks like a Torx 30 bit. so let us get started on this.

There's a got a torch 30 a little bit of Loctite for good measure. I Hate to have this thing fail because the threads backed out. That would not be okay. We're gonna thread these guys in and then we'll give them a couple, uh, a couple love taps with a quarter inch impact, send them home, and then we'll uh, go ahead and disassemble the car and get these things on.

Now we can see how that's not sitting flush. That is because that gasket material has yet to be compressed in between these two components. Get that one on there any more. Do we have three more here? Let's speed this up.

We'll do Loctite in Mass Number two. Last one here there we go. A little bit of torque action. We'll be all set here.

Click! Okay, our manifold has its a little cooler assembly installed and gasketed. Let's go ahead and head over to the car. We'll get that uh, upper intake plenum removed and then we can pull this unit out and replace it. We'll pull the old unit out and replace it with this new upgraded super high performance unit.

Let's get to it. Okay, time to get started now. Uh I Guess the best place is at the beginning. so we need to get the air intake equipment removed here.
See, we've got some breakage here already in this. uh PCB hose. The nipple's been broken off. It could use a replacement air box.

I Suppose because of that, let's get the uh, the tubing off. We'll get this intake section off right here. and then we can disconnect all of our hoses and wires from the manifold. Get this guy unbolted and then removed and lifted away from its position.

So I'm thinking we'll just unbolt this air box. Get this guy removed. I See a drywall screw? You guys know how I feel about drywall screws on cars. Wow, That screw wasn't even screwed into the other side.

It was running in sideways and I just dropped one. No worries. I'll put a drywall screw in to replace it. I Mean, if that's the standard for automotive repair, then so be it.

Why not? come on. Drywall screw I Can see why it got lost because you can't really reach the thing down in that little hole there. I Understand how it fell down and disappeared? Okay, see here. this guy is supposed to turn and it's not come out.

air filter lid. There we go. How's our filter looking beautimous? Okay, save that for later. Okay, looking off to the right sum.

We've got a couple electrical connectors here. This one is to the evap purge solenoid. It sends manifold vacuum down into the fuel tank and recovers Vapors inside of the tank. So let's get this thing disconnected here.

Connector down. It should open up. It should a little more come out. You know what? I Have another idea.

we'll leave it attached. It's probably less risky. There we go. Solve that problem.

You go down there okay. and around the back side of our manifold we've got pressure sensor. I Think that's the manifold pressure sensor. We've got our throttle body connector right here.

Let's get that guy out. Then an intake air temperature sensor right there in the back. Stick that thing aside. Now let's pull our little clip pin.

It's a push pin clip. Pull that guy up and out. I Don't need a smaller little pry device to the toolbox. Small one.

There we go. There's a larger one and a smaller one. We need the smaller one to get on. There You pull the center of the clip Up and pull that out.

and that's been. Oh, how clever. it's been zip tied on because it was broken. Okay, yeah, whoever was here in a past life kind of didn't do so hot.

Okay, so regardless, we're starting to get some access to all of our fasteners for our manifold here. Uh, we've got two. On the front side. There's a little bolt right there, another little bolt right there.

and then I'm thinking, unflip that. Stick that out of the way. I'm thinking that's all that's really left. It's kind of.

It's securing this unit here. That is a PCB hose right there going to the rear valve cover. Push that guy back. Come off.
Wiggle. There we go. Oh look. another little bracket.

I Need to not neglect that either. That's uh, holding this thing down to the rear cylinder head. So we're looking for a 10 millimeter ratcheting wrench that's going to get those nuts off that secure the brackets on on the front side of this manifold. here.

It's that one and that one now. Although these are secure with just a couple of these nuts, the issue is is there's actually a stud that's threaded into the plastic here. I'm going to have to remove that stud as well because the stud is going to continue to capture the section of the manifold inside of the bracket. Drop that too.

Um, now. I See why the last time I touched one of these pen of stars, there was bolts everywhere. See that or on Butterfingers Today As always about nothing, girls, get this one off. This is also why mechanics have boxes and boxes of Parts just in case.

because we do, uh, we drop things and we lose things there. I Got one. So now I need to get like an E I think that's an E7 or an E8 and pull those studs out as well. The E is in reference to the socket type.

see this is a there's a Torx bit right there that's got the the five points on it. Six points. Well, an E-socket is the inverted of a Torx See that and that is what you're going to find. On the end of most studs is an inverted Torx and that's an E6 there.

So we'll get this guy onto the flexing ratchet and we can just come down and back that stud out. Oh no, no, I can't Oh what, they cheated. There is a, uh, like a washer on the end of that stud right there and it's going to prevent that stud from from coming out of the bracket. That's not what I thought I remembered on this particular job.

Okay, well, let's move on to the remainder of our little 10 mil Fasteners Back here. we've got two more on this bracket. We're gonna grab that bolt right there nut. s.

Look at that one and then there's the one right next to it right there. I'm gonna have to pull one of these brackets off or bend something. Oh look, that stud's coming out. Okay, it's good.

You see that that means the last time this was reassembled, they uh, put that stud in in the wrong order? That's good for me. I will uh I will accept that and they didn't tighten down the bottom of this bracket. See it moving around. Epic fail.

Oh well, that's good for me because now I can squeeze this unit out. Good. Okay, let's back it up. We will get the Uh looks like one two, three, four six bolts.

that, uh, maybe eight volts to secure this manifold down to the Uh the lower intake. eight mil coming in last one. Okay, those are captured so I shouldn't have to worry about them falling out and I think that's all of them. Yep, sure is.

So let's clear that stud. pull this guy up. I Think we're pretty much free here. Anything else in the back connecting us? Yes, we have one hose right back over here.
See that guy. gotta get that thing removed. Let's move that. give this a Twist to break that surface adhesion.

Then we'll come back in behind it with a little pry driver pull that guy right off. That's how we do that without breaking the plastic. There we go. Okay manifold coming with us, up and out.

new gaskets. Those are going to be replaced anyway. Let's just put this thing right over there out of the way. And as for these guys, we'll pluck these out as well.

The Pocket Drivers I Need your gasket? I'm out. That's odd. These are green and the others are blue. I Wonder if these things were changing colors? There We go.

Get rid of those gaskets. We have new ones over there in the kit. It goes there. and now we need to pull this lower manifold up and out because our cooler assembly is down below it.

That means we need to pull our ignition coils and disconnect those guys as well as the fuel injectors. It's all got to go both Banks front and rear because there are bolts for this lower manifold under the uh, this wiring harness. here. Let's get rid of this clip that secures the harness to the valve cover.

Pop that guy out one right next to it. Get rid of that. Now we can start to see our fuel injector connectors which are not connected very well either. They have these red little locking clips.

That one was not depressed. There's a lot not done properly. This job. I Hope the guy who did this last is not watching because they might feel bad about themselves.

It's not the goal here. Yeah, Get in there. Look up on that. Press the tab.

Pull the injectors. There we go. One more clip off to the right. That one.

over here we go. Now we've been exposed all three injectors on this side. And then, more importantly, we've got a hold of the the Fasteners. So moving around to the back, repeat the same same procedure here.

and starting with our coils, we can disconnect these guys on there. one harness, retainer clip. Pull that guy out of its Mount it's counterpart next to it or adjacent to. that can be the vocab word of the day.

adjacent. Okay, got those guys off. Let's get the injector connectors next. Okay, one red clip on the back.

they. uh, they managed to push. uh, push these clips down. so all those were secured on this back side but not the front side ones.

I Wonder if our guy was in a hurry? I'm not bashing the guy or anything, but there's just some details here that were that were left out. Normally nobody would matter or it wouldn't matter. It only matters when someone else comes in and finds the error. One more little retainer.

There we go. And in this case, we have found the air. And it's not just one guy that found it. There's like a like a hundred thousand of us that found it.

Yeah, it's numbers. Okay, so now this entire lower manifold assembly has been electronically disconnected. What we're going to do is unbolt it, pick it up, lay it off to the side. I'm gonna try to not open up the fuel system just because it'll spray fuel everywhere.
and I just don't want to do that. That'll be my shortcut. Okay, that thing is disconnected with the exception of one more piece of plastic here. Hang on.

That's that's the wrong one. this one. See that guy I Missed a clip. There it is.

Now you can pull this guy up. You hear what? I said, Up, up, up, and off to the side and awayish. And that's what we're looking for. This guy down here.

Look at that. That's that's nasty in there. Epically nasty. It's a wretched Hive of scum like an oil coolant sludgy kind of mix here.

so that definitely tells me. And there's water in there also. I See a lot of water. It definitely tells me that this thing is 100 leaking and it is leaked down all around the back of the engine, down the side of it.

The thing has been dripping everywhere. so this is our culprit. Let's go ahead and get this thing unbolted disconnected from its pressure sensors. Here, there's a pressure I think those are pressure and temp sensors for oil might be coolant? I Think it could be coolant one of those two.

Anyway, we're gonna get these guys disconnected. We have to transfer Those sensors over to our new aluminum manifold and then we can, uh, get this thing bolted back in and reinstalled and all fixed up. Let's show one more little red guy here. Pull that guy out.

Just connect. and that one. that one's also missing its little locking clip. Pull that guy out, set you aside, and we're going to have to unscrew that hose clamp right there.

Pull that thing out as well. Got it? Yeah, that guy's loose hose looks like it's going to come off. no problem. Okay, the hose is super spongy.

Okay, we've got an E8 coming in that is going to remove the Torx Fasteners that secure this manifold down to the intake. Valley I'm probably not going to be so violent on these ones as I was the others because some of these are boogered up a little bit and I do not want to round them off. unclick. see for example, that one's way tighter than it's counterpart.

does not feel good either. Oh, you better be okay. that didn't feel very good at all. Let's take a look at that in a minute.

Click that one. This one's kind of rounded off also. I Don't like that one more on the back. That one looks okay.

All right. Are you free? Are you loose? Are you loose and freeze and something's not letting go here? What? This problem? Probably nothing. It just needs a bunch of Wiggle action to come out of there. Maybe some pry bar business? There's a nipple that sticks down into this intake.

Valley from this side here and that's the oil return. I Think that's what's just what's hanging us up here. We'll get a side load on it. Yeah, it's that nipple on my left side.
pulls. Keep on giving it the wiggle treatment until it comes out. or until I break it. whichever comes first.

Wow. it could have hurt. Uh, fry up. Come out there.

It goes. pry bar to the wind at all times. Kind of. Yep, Okay, there it is.

That's our affected chunk unit. Oh, look at that. oil. was running out of it.

right through here. Okay, Let's uh. let's get a towel and get this thing out of here. contaminants.

Gross. look at that. Okay, so much of it. The knock sensors are underwater.

down the holes. Everything that's supposed to be Cooling that one's coolant. That's water. It should have drain holes in these things considering how often they fail.

One more chamber right over here. suction that one out, suction out. The bolt holes cannot have fluid inside the bolt holes because then the bolts will bottom out. I'll break off.

Nasty. Okay, cops are super shiny. That's all oil, water, frothy, nasty mix. Uh okay.

that's pretty good. We suction the rest of this out, clean it up, some, give it a good wipe down, that'll clean these surfaces off, and we'll get to the installation segment of our replacement component. Goodbye, overflow break, Clean. suction the rest of that out.

or I'm gonna pull this hose out next. we'll pack. Had one down the street and I have ordered it. so I should get that thing fairly certain I can't.

uh I cannot in good conscious conscience. Uh, put this thing back together with this oil soaked, squishy, mushy, non-hose kind of thing here. that's just not gonna work out. So I had to order replacement here.

it's been disconnected on the other side. We've got a little clip right here hanging on to it. or I'll try that guy out there. Whoa.

you guys Super fell that time. let's pull this thing out of his home. goodbye. Yeah, look at that.

That's it. That is not okay. we're not reusing that. Nope.

Okay, let's head over back to the bench and we can do a transfer of components mainly these sensors from our old unit. Uh, over here to our new unit. So we've got uh, one temp sensor on the top here. Come out please.

There we go back. this guy right on off. We're gonna put some Teflon tape on it or something like that. reseal it and this guy on pickage.

There we go. Very good. Let's get this leaky piece of junk out of here inside. Okay, this one's gonna go right there.

We're gonna plug you in I threw some sealant on the threads that way it cannot leak. Let's get this guy tightened to a reasonable amount. They don't go in all the way. You do not bottom them out.

If you try, you'll break them off, but you're making them good and tight as per second. There we go. That one's good there. I'm comfortable with that.

And now for our coolant thing. screw this guy right on in and same thing, we tighten it down. It does not have to go all the way. and I don't know if I want to do one more turn or leave that alone.
That feels pretty good and it's pointed the right way. Okay, so now we're ready to get this thing bolted back into position. You can see all of the O-rings are where they're supposed to be. There's an o-ring on our drain tube there.

We need some lubricant around that O-ring so it does not tear when it gets pushed down into that bar right there. so let's just get some dielectric on that so it slides in nice just like. So there we go. Let's get this thing down into its new home here.

I Love how I push that off to the side and it just went right back. Yeah, defined little creatures. Wiggle that guy down. It's in the bore.

Good. We need to move that wire. Look at that guy. It's trapped in between the housing.

There it is. It could have been bad. Okay, this thing's in position here. Let's get our bolts in and tighten this unit down.

five. Torx Fasteners Coming in, making sure that wire is clear, that one more out back there. it is okay now. I Didn't thread those by hand because they're far away.

so I'm just going to use my my E-torques and an extension to start the threads. You're going to pay attention to this one here because that one came out pretty rough. I Didn't really appreciate it I Think it'll go in. Okay, all right, that's good.

Let's actually begin to apply some torque here. All of those O-rings are starting to compress. Now here we go. Okay, oil filter is coming in.

I've got some dielectric on the O-ring a little bit more down here on that bottom o-ring so that stuff all seats properly. We'll slide this thing down with this orange cap and its new warning label that specifies the appropriate filter. Again, this is an upgraded unit to the next year model, so let us give this guy a nice tie back again. We don't tighten it down to maximum possible capacity, we just tighten it down until it seats because the O-ring is what actually creates the seal.

So now we're bottomed out and all right. Intermission over x amount of time has passed and I have received a replacement. Mopar Coolant: uh, bypass tubing device hose that is, uh, gonna plug into this unit right here. and uh, it's gonna plug in right down here too.

I Put some dielectric inside of this to help it slide on. there's that side and skip this other back side. Smooth with that guy on there. Yeah, more there we go all the way.

So now I need to remove this little little yellow flip retainer things just kind of pry that out some come here clip, come off. Yeah, that's on there. Good action. There we go.

Pop that guy right off and then we'll do the same that one here. Let's give her a Twist give it more a Twist please. There we go and that's gonna live down there forever. Okay, let's take the hose and secure it to the top of the valley right there with that little plug now I Need to plug in my coolant temp sensor.
You know that's all pressure plug in oil pressure and then this one is coolant temp age. All right, we're in good. Go ahead and get this lower manifold reinstalled. I've already taken the liberty of removing the old gaskets and I installed the new ones that came with the oil cooler assembly.

So let's just swing this guy right on over, set her down in position here, and then get her bolted in. Alrighty I've already started these guys by hand. so we're gonna run them down and begin to torque them less aggressively than the way. I Remove them, make sure they're all threaded.

Good. Okay, let's start getting some torque here. All right. Very nice.

All right, we're good here. I got them all. Yep, sure, dude, let us go ahead and get our wiring harnesses. hard eye wiring harness back in position.

here. Is that the uh, plural? Is it harnesses? or can we use Harnai? I'm pretty sure we can't say harnai, but it is kind of fun. Okay, now this time around, we're gonna push those little red safety clip things, retainers, whatever back into place unlike the last time. sorry last guy I don't mean to make that much fun of you just a little bit.

Thank you. There we go. Coils are on. that's good.

Good good. This one plugs in there. This guy right here. that's our injector harness for the back.

You can snap all these guys into their positions I Love this part. It's the home stretch part. the nearly completed part. the gratifying part.

Okay, all those guys are on. This is the stuff for the throttle body up top, so we don't need that. but we do need six more gaskets right here. upper manifold coming in.

We need to mind the two studs that go into these two brackets on the front of the engine right here. So what we're going to do is we're going to bring her in. We're going to start with the two studs and get those in the holes and then just kind of hinge this thing down, pushing that other bracket in the back clear and out of the way, making sure our Fasteners are clear and out of the way, and we're not really aligned properly just yet. here.

Now we are there we go. Okay, so I will now thread up the remaining fasteners. These ones cannot be over torqued because these Fasteners thread into the plastic of that lower manifold. So Extra Care must be taken and I forgot something.

Run row the insulation. this little foam padding right here. Look at that. Love my job so much.

I'm gonna do it twice. I can take back out again. Dang sorry to bore you guys. Don't click away.

Please don't click away. No, don't leave me. Don't leave me here all by myself. Trying it again.

This thing goes here there. It's always in the details. Now again, we've got our little studs poking them through the little holes. Hinge it down.
Pull that guy aside. we're lined up again. start the bolts again. and then we can torque that thing down again.

That one has started. This one is started. That one's good. That one's good.

Make sure they all get started first. Okay, foreign of our 10 mil nuts. it goes there. This one threads in right over here.

We'll tighten those down in a moment. There's another 10 mil nut right there and the one that I dropped has been recovered from down below. That guy goes on right there. Become tight now.

please. The bolt is trying to turn. There we go. Leakage.

Is that one there? Come out and then it's counterpart off to the right here. I might just get that with the open end. It seems a little tough to get my uh, ratcheting side onto that a little more. There we go.

Flicks Okay, let's get the back side next. Click that one. We've got our PCV hose that goes in right there. This guy I forgot where that goes.

How about right there? there we are. and then this plugs in right here. Thick inch. All right.

that guy's in. We're all set up here. Bracketry is good. Let's get our throttle body connector reconnected.

It goes right there so it stays safe. This one plugs in right here and this guy goes in our intake tube. same as this one here. Okay, slip that unit in now.

although that little blue push pin thing that we took note of earlier is broken, it still is capable of supporting this section of this air box. So I'm not going to remove it I'm just going to put it back away I Found it because I can, still, uh, use it to hold that thing down. For what it's worth there, that one goes there. Where did this thing plug in? I'm missing something that plugs in there.

Oh the uh. EVAP System purge solenoid. That's where it goes I Remember now farther down on this there now we're good. Okay, that guy is in position.

let's tighten down the clamp that's on it. and then we can get the rest of the piping installed. Eight Mil socket coming in right there. That's our clamp and time for the purge valve that slides right over.

Come here. a little bracket right here. Please come here there. Then we plug it in, snap that on, and then our vacuum hose goes right to that little port.

top the intake there, so that's all set up. This is good that us get our screwdriver out of there. get the air filter back in its position here. It will take our piping for our intake, slide that back over the big baffle box, then we'll twist it, groove it, and set it down in conditions, through it.

back in and look what. I have located extra screws to fasten it with. Now we don't have to use the drywall screws because I don't like drywall screws on cars. Those are horrible.

Set that right there. Down in the Hole gotta rev It Up That's one started. That's the hole that had the drywall screw in it and then that hole in the back. That's the one that had the screw sideways.
It did not even thread into the bottom part of the box. Yeah, that was an epic failure. Got it? That one's tight. The front one is good to go.

Let's get one more hose in position here. Plug that guy in the way we found it and snap and then these guys are going to clip into the manifold just to secure that PCV hose. Okay, good to go here. We need to refill the oil, refill the coolant, and then drain the oil whatever's left in the crankcase.

and I don't think there's much in there. We need to drain that, refill, both fluids and then we can start things the engine and see if this thing's gonna live. Set that right there. Let's get all my goodies off the uh wiper cow and I'm under the hood area and whatnot.

and then we'll get this thing raised up and got drain the oil out of it. I'll take that I'll take this there. we go. All right.

Two hour black subscribe button. Moving on up. Yes, my clever usage of actual buttons for subscribe buttons is my cute little way of rewinding all of the new viewers here to consider subscribing to the channel That Way you do not miss out on any future content. All right, let's go fetch the oil drain, pull our drain plug here, and uh, see how much comes out.

Probably not a lot. It did not have any oil when it got here. Rolling rolling, rolling. Keep that drain pan rolling.

It's gonna take a lot of break. Clean and clean all this oil off. Look at that. That's a that's a whole lot of oil.

Okay, it's everywhere. leaking on everything. Okay, let's see what's left inside of the uh drain pan. Here for the oil.

pan. Rather, let's see what's left in the oil pan. can I get my my vocabulary to coordinate properly. Oh, that's that's brand new oil.

See that? I Guess that's good. They must have put oil in it to keep it alive. Not much in there about the quartz. maybe? Okay, while we wait, you can hose this thing off goodbye Crusty oil.

This is why I didn't waste spray clean the other day now. I can waste it over here. Thank you AC can. Yeah.

running out. Oh no, it's all over with another. Okay, enough screwing around. Let's get our drain plug back in.

put some torque on this thing, then we can refill. We do not have to pull the filter off and change it because we already did that when we removed the uh the oil cooler assembly. kick engine oil coming in. No need for a funnel I have a spout Got five I think I took five and a half quarts in our jug here I'll give it five so you can start it in a second.

It might be a six four engine I don't recall Yes, I could look at the specs, but I could also just put in five quarts and then check it. There's more than one way to skip that or fill an engine or anything for that matter. There's many ways to do many things. see what we've got here on our dip and stick and the series says it has not reached the line yet.
So I'm gonna fill the rest of this thing up. Then we're gonna start it to see if it's junk. It could be blown up. There we go.

You're gonna need another quart. So it's like a 6.24 engine. Encore Round two that's two old Francaise in French Francaise Aaron my BG Snake oil coolants coming in. Let's refill this thing.

It's not in a BG jug it's in. my Uh comes from a 55 gallon drum and I just use these jugs to transfer. But hey, since the cleaners are snake oil and the transmission fluid services are snake, Well I guess the oil. Snake oil.

It's oil made from snakes. There we go. Okay, all righty moment of truth: Let's hop into the cabin, restocking the engine, squeeze in here, and uh, we'll check her for leaks the beginning engine starting sequence. we also did not have much oil pressure had to Prime everything so a little noisy on.

Startup Let's check it for uh Exxon Valdez geyser type of situation here. Make sure we're not spewing oil out of the bottom of it and that's looking good. those grips over there I think that's AC water or coolant that I spilled Let's Take a Look Down in the Valley and that's not filling up with oil or coolant which is good. Check the back side of the valley here.

you'll coolant no oil and what? I can see I hear no vacuum leaks. This is also good. All right. I Just need to let this kind of come up the temp a little bit.

We'll check the levels after it stabilizes. I did recover the uh, the cap. it was down inside of that hole right there and in the fender. so I managed to get that thing out.

but yeah, so far I think we're good to go here Guys, this is a successful repair is uh, as far as I can tell at this point forward. So uh, having said that, I Realize this video has run a little bit longer than normular so I'm gonna go ahead and close this video out right now. Uh, there's really no need to test drive this right now because it has to stay up on the rack I need to do a little bit more cleaning. uh, down below with all that oil stuff and uh, there's a few other things we're going to check out on this car.

So uh, having said that again and as always like, thank you guys for watching this video I Certainly hope you enjoyed this video on this Chrysler 200 Let me know if you have a Chrysler 200 or a pentastar 3.6 liter and this situation has ever happened to you. Uh, comment down below uh What uh, what it took to deal with that and what you had experienced when your vehicle failed while you're down there. Do not forget to tap the like button And most importantly, everybody here have yourselves a fantastic day. See you guys later in the video Any press of 200 and 3.6 liter pentastar in today in the transmission.

98 thoughts on “Ran out of oil! common failure! chrysler 200 3.6 pentastar”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Raymond Root says:

    I hopebthe guy that did it is watching
    So he can see how its supposed to be done

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars OOOO0000 says:

    Thank ray about to do this on my sister 2016 200 piece of junk they were asking 900$ while I can do it for 200$ might aswell is there any reason you would want to remove some coolant before removing the cooler

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Knyn says:

    He mentions neutral drop because he is jealous they only mention Eric O on their videos and wants them to mention him lolz haha

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Andreas Drechsler says:

    We have a Chrysler T&C with Pentastar 3.6 VVT from 2016 with the same problem after replace the Oilfilter. The Original Housing was Junk in it becomes a Upgrade Housing.

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars JJK 1 says:

    Lovin Cancelled by Tom MacDonald playing in the background around 13 min 👍

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David Houser says:

    They somehow think plastic is going to hold up to extreme temperatures from oil what a joke enjoyed the video.

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jim Davis says:

    So, Rabbi is the plural of Rabbus?

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars DeadKoby says:

    That's a new Chrysler feature… Automatic undercarriage rust inhibitor.

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Richard Gordon says:

    Can you aspirate my Sinuses with that please. Forever Allergy season.her in Orlando.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Richard Gordon says:

    So there is a plastic gas hose .with a plastic splice fitting?😮

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Angelo Valadez says:

    Why do these car makers make these newer cars so stupidly complicated. 🤯😞

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Fredness says:

    Dual wielding the brake clean…

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Matt Brewer says:

    Use some RTV you fucken milkey licker

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Reg Wirth says:

    Owner of 200S with 3.6 the only oil issue I've had was with the dealer's "First free oil change", they forgot the new oil.

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Christopher Anderson says:

    Just some hard learned advice for you on those O-rings I noticed that you seldom use a lubricant on your replacement O-rings and you should be using it on EVERY O-ring because if you don’t there’s a chance the O-ring can get damaged during installation. This is noted on most packaging that includes O-rings. It also aids in the removal of these components later. I won’t get into how I learned this the hard way but trust me I’m sure one of your customers by now has developed a leak from the lack of using the lubricant since it can take time for the leak to develop after these O-rings get damaged on the installs. It’s really a safety measure when installing them.

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Willy HSV says:

    Hey Ray, can the cooler housing have a small coolant leak that does not leave an obvious trace? I have the 3.6 with a very slow coolant leak that I can not find without tearing things apart. It is a 2011 Challenger. Is there a way to find it, maybe with a boresite camera, that can tell me that it is the problem? Or should I just go ahead and order a housing and cross over tube and replace those due to history of failures and be proactive?

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Carl Blanchet says:

    I don't know about brake cleaner in France but we do have brake cleaner in Quebec, Canada…..Merci Ray, passe une très belle journée!

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars madcow usa says:

    Only one specific group of people buy a Chrysler 200/300 usually with low credit, high interest finance. Draw your own conclusions. I give these uninsured aggressive types a very wide berth if they get anywhere near me on the freeway. Not worth dealing with road rage/tail gaiting and you'll recover less than zero after court even when you present clear dash cam footage and prevail. Nothing good comes from such terrible cars or their deadbeat drugged out low IQ drivers.

  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars The Underground Lair of the Squankum says:

    Ray, to avoid dropping nuts and screws in risky situations, put a telescoping magnet retrieval tool down next to your socket or screwdriver tip so that when the fastener comes loose, the magnet grabs it.

  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Shawn Whitman says:

    Great video you always make it fun to watch and learn. I don't mean to be a nag but I noticed when you were spraying off the oil pan that you missed a spot.

    😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂 just playing 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars leo lion says:

    I've done this job soo many times , I honestly didn't know they has an aluminum alternative to the cooler assembly , I've always just bought an all new unit

  22. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars john reilly says:

    Just a suggestion, after removing the front supprt bracket nuts remove the rear support bracket nuts and loosen the bracket bolts on back of head, then when removing upper air intake pull to rear slightly and lift up, this avoids having to pull the front support bracket.

  23. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars NikeMike Ike says:

    Had a Grand Caravan come in for the same reason. Sadly, I couldn’t get the doorman because of an intergalactic backlog for the part, so the customer opted to replace the oil cooler with another OEM. I told him to watch out for any leaks every week because of how fragile these things are 😂 but my shop let me keep the old one as a souvenir. Really cool.

  24. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars yawn says:

    I love your work, Ray. You give me confidence in working on my car. I changed my own battery today! It's not big to some, but I have severe anxiety that sometimes affects how I function and think (basically in fight/flight mode a lot), and to do something that scares me and to do it right is such a good feeling and confidence booster. I felt like the smiles of a million dads and my late brother when my car started. I did it! My hands were shaking and I was chanting POSITIVE FIRST lol

  25. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Hola! eddie stanley says:

    Good videos, lose the "background Muzak".

  26. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars DKLGalactus5 says:

    ease cheesy repair you just make it look hard lol.

  27. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Online Mechanic Tips says:

    Good stuff bro. Like your style

  28. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars George Kennedy says:

    Had a ENT Doc suck out the Floriduh fungus from my ear and it sounded like that cleanout. Hurt like hell too. I like the way you took the time to install those sensors right side up so the connectors fit properly Ray.

  29. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Is it worth it? Let’s see says:

    After all that did you grease those grease fittings?? 🤔 Troy, well Totally blew it because he stepped away from such a fantastic teacher/boss and a solid family. Good luck on your journey Troy. Oh and ask me why I don’t like FORDS 😂🤣🤣.

  30. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Helen Ault says:

    Remarkable coincidence, I'm doing the same job on a '13 Grand Caravan, using the same replacement cooler for the same reasons.

  31. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars South Wind says:

    put "tape" on the air intake tube where hose attached? why not 2 ton epoxy?

  32. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars South Wind says:

    plastic: planned obsolescence!!!!

  33. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars John Cooper says:

    I know I am days late – was on a road trip, just got back last night. Someone on the Internet or in a magazine article mentioned that if you turn a screw going into plastic backwards until it drops down a little you will reuse the old threads and be less likely to strip out the hole. It works great and takes a lot less effort to turn the screw.

  34. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars adam j says:

    Using a dorman part 🤔, we all know what Eric o thinks of dorman 🤣.

  35. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Thomas Tarner says:

    I just did this job about a year ago on our 2013 Caravan. The replacement I picked up was a plastic one just like the factory one. I'll be getting this upgrade oil cooler if the problem returns.

  36. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars fireeater 420 says:

    The e stands for external torx ray just fyi😂

  37. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Wayne G says:


  38. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Konstantinos Tselios says:

    Too many plastics Chrysler pentaplastic

  39. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ye Olde Boy Scout says:

    I'm glad I found this by accident.
    I am considering a Jeep with this engine. I have driven a few with the 3.6 most had 80K miles so it would seem any serious issues had been resolved by then to keep the vehicle running.

  40. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Onaopemipo Odetunde says:


  41. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Stephen Hookings says:

    Regarding snake oil – I started rewarching 1970s Sci Fi movies.

    Westworld snake Deffo had oil in it! That's why it bit the dude.

  42. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars doug crowther says:

    Just managed to watch this video, loved the oil filling part very funny 😅😅

  43. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars ghostgames302 says:

    We should play the game of guess the songs we see in his videos in the background

  44. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Kevin Daniel says:

    It's so nice that the oil cooler comes with the gaskets for the other components that have to be removed to get to it. I've never seen that before.