After mistakenly misdiagnosing a complaint of a clunking noise in the steering column, the electronic steering motor is removed to find damage inside of the steering columns gearbox.
Misdiagnosis! Mechanic was Wrong! https://youtu.be/S5vAL5TJ7no
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
Misdiagnosis! Mechanic was Wrong! https://youtu.be/S5vAL5TJ7no
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
Hello there viewers! Good day to you and welcome back! I'm glad you guys are here I Knew I'm super glad to be here. We are returning to our 2013. Hyundai Santa Fe this is the one that I misdiagnosed earlier. It has approximately starting the engine.
she's got 122 967 miles on the odometer. uh in the last episode of this car, I replaced the intermediate steering shaft uh down below the bottom of the steering column because I thought that the steering shaft was making that noise and and I thought wrong I went down there I looked at it I thought I saw it move I thought I heard it do the clicky thing and I put a new one in there and immediately after installing the new steering shaft the clicking noise returned. So I was wrong I misdiagnosed it. My customer got a free part but it's okay I found out uh in part thanks to you guys in the comments section I found out what is wrong with this car.
So I'm gonna go ahead and start pulling this steering column out. Believe it or not, it was like a 20 part. That's wrong with this. A little small piece of uh of gear shaped rubber or plastic and the thing disintegrates and comes apart.
So we need to go ahead and get, uh, get this knee bolster removed. We'll get the column disconnected. We're going to drop the column down and then we can get access to the electronic steering assist motor that's on the column. We're gonna pull that motor off and I bet you we're gonna find a whole bunch of Carnage and destruction.
uh on the gear faces of that electric motor. So stay tuned because this is gonna be a very good video opening. Z Hood Oh look who that guy is. Alrighty, First things first.
let's get the knee bolster off of here. That's going to be two screws. one on the left and then one over there on the right. That's gonna pull this plastic uh little cover thing off here and once this guy is gone, I should be able to uh get a hold of some bolts on this column to drop the guy down I Understand you can do this job in a about two hours, two and a half hours.
I've never done this before so I don't know how long it actually is going to take me. Mirror screw if I can't get this screw out, it's gonna take all day. It's horrible. There you go.
All right, that's two screws. Let's pop this thing. Oh let's pull this guy back see if it won't uh. start to uh, come through here.
What are we stuck on? Why are we stuck? All right? Let's just give it a little tug over here. Looks like there's just some. yeah, there's plastic clips that hold this guy in and then over here there's another little panel to pry this guy out and we have located another screw here and another one. another one there.
Let's get those guys removed. Come here screw, pull that one out, that one down there, and then this thing should pop free. I Do see some tabs here that seem to, uh, be retaining it. We'll Bend those tabs in and disconnect this unit.
All right, you're free. Let's pull this plastic business out in a way and then disconnect our connectors in here. These are for our switches. Kind of a tight squeeze I'd say oh, come on now. why aren't you coming off? These switches are stuck. They're stuck on stupid. There we go. Got that one? Got that one? A little bit of mini pry bar for the win here.
Got that one and one more down here below. two down below lights. and then the OBD2 connector. Let's pull that guy out too while we're here.
One tab, push it in, another tab. push it in. That's a tough one too. It does not want to unclip there.
I'll get it from the front, spin it around. can't pull on this too hard because you'll tear the wires out of the connectors and that's never, ever, ever good. We don't like to tear wires out. Come on depress, little bugger.
Flip it around. Try it from the other side first. Seriously there. Alrighty, we've got some.
uh, 10 millimeter Fasteners here. I Think there's six of them. Two on this side, there's five of them Cinco in. Espanol Okay, set this guy aside.
Alrighty, So up right up here you see there's that bolt right there. the orange on it. Another one over there. Those two bolts, uh, should be bolting the column up to its structure inside of the dash.
So let's pull those guys out and then, uh, hopefully our column will just kind of swing down. It'll give us some access back there to that steering motor. So I know you guys can't like see the bolts from where you're at, but you know it's a close quarters combat situation here, so sacrifices must be made. Let's go ahead and get these guys unbolted here.
We'll drop this unit down. Reverse fix. There you go up. Came off.
try again. Unkickage. All right, that's one of our bolts around here. to the other side on the right.
Let's get that second one and hopefully this column just, uh, pivots down. I can get to that motor with the relative ease here. All right, there's more than just the two balls. Those guys are out in the columns still, uh, still attached.
Oh I See why? There's another one right up here, and then probably another. uh on the right hand side. So let's sneak our socket up into that hole right there. The size of that? it's 12..
pull that nut down and then there should be another. Uh, right over here to the right. Tough to see I Can tell you that barely. Yeah.
climbing here upside down got it. kind of. I Think I'm on it. Yep, on clicks.
Okay, column is coming down. There She Goes She's coming down and there's our motor right back there. Okay, so off to the left, right here. we've got a main power supply wire that goes to that motor.
It's going to disconnect that, let this thing drop down some. see what else is hanging on to it here. That wire looks good. Okay, I think I think I've got enough to get into there and get a hold of that motor to remove it. Now tell you what. This wire right here has got a little bit of tension on it. Let's pull. let's pull some covers off and disconnect that cable as well.
just to get that out of the way. I Don't want to pull any of the wires out of the pins or out of the connectors and damage a component. The steering column is just kind of hanging out here. How do I get you unconnected? Bear with me folks.
just trying to pull one of these connectors out. It doesn't want to budge. Mini pry bar. Where'd you go? A little pry bar? Push that guy in.
Slide it back there. we go. Come up there. we go.
now. she's coming out. Got it all right? That one's out. All right.
we're coming in. I've got a Torx 30 right here on the end. uh of my ratchet and I think there's three or four Fasteners that hold this down I Can see two of them here. not the silver ones, but the black ones.
Uh, reach around the back side I don't feel a fourth one here. so that means I think I've got my finger on it back here. That means there's probably just three screws. So I'm gonna go behind this and get the hard one first.
I Know you guys can't see there is a uh steering motor in the way and I apologize for that, but we don't have a unlimited amount of space inside of this Dash here. Okay, I've got my socket on the Fastener and it slipped. Bear with me folks. I Can feel it kinda.
This is probably why I'm supposed to take this column all the way out. All right there it is. Got it. Okay, so my Torx bit is on the Fastener Let's get that back one removed coming in with the ratchet here and let's give it a uh, let's give it some unclick action.
Oh no I lost it. it broke loose I got it to come loose so the thing did turn. Let's try this one more time without massive Fastener slip action. All right there we go back on it again.
glue back in with the ratchet, give her a couple turns here. There we go and now I can pull that Fastener out by hand I'm just going to reach in. we're gonna unthread that thing all the way and I'm taking care to not drop this. uh, this.
Bolt There it is. Got it. Okay, there's our first Fastener that's one out of the way. Next hardest is going to be the one off to the left right here.
let me get my Torx on to that unit on linkage. Got that one loose? Speed things up a bit here. Spin that guy out. So I hope it's just these three Fasteners because I couldn't feel or find a fourth one.
Yeah, all right. squeeze in there, wouldn't you say? there's that one and a new little taste? Ah, there we go. Come out, come out sting and pull this guy out and look at that right there. Found the problem.
Oh yeah, all right. moving in for the close-up inspection evaluation and we can see there's all kinds of like either rubber or some kind of some kind of powder or whatever in there. I Think that's just like plastic. Yeah, that's the plastic rubber. They're supposed to be like a like a bushing or some kind of gear that rests in between all these teeth right here. That way we don't have metal to metal contact between the motor and the steering gear and all this debris appears to be the uh, all The Nasty or uh, pieces of that little plastic ear thing. It's like rubber or plastic. Let me just pop this thing out.
Oh yeah, that thing's destroyed. That's not okay with that guy and that's uh, that's what's left of it right there. Focus Well, it used to be a gear. Now it's just a piece of rubber.
all right. So we need to clean all that nasty stuff out and then we can get a new one installed. Uh, it appears that this is actually a high failure rate kind of item. and the parts store actually had a little gear unit in stock.
It's not a key apart. This one was A. It was a dormant part, but just a little piece of rubber. Looks like a well.
It looks like a gear. It's symmetrical on both sides and this thing is supposed to sit down between those little grooves. Those four grooves there. And then there's those four, four little teeth or whatever right there.
This thing is supposed to sit down like inside of there and just be a cushion between the two metal parts. So that thing has come apart. and that should explain our clunking noise and clicking noise, and possibly even our sticking steering. So let's get this thing cleaned out.
We'll get this thing reinstalled, then we'll put that thing back on that thing, and then we can put the steering column thing back up here on that thing. And then we're good to go. So let's get, uh, let's get back at it all right. Shop back coming in and powering on suction? All right.
let's go ahead and get all that uh, that rubber or whatever out of there doing all this business out. Goodbye chunks. This is nasty. Yeah, good to go.
There's still some small pieces in there. but I don't want to turn these gears. they they're in the right orientation. So so I'm gonna come in here with a blow gun and use some compressed air to blow the rest of that stuff out.
All right. So we need to need to go particles out. So I'm going to use a compressed mixture of nitrogen CO2 oxygen, argon, and some other ignorant gases. We use a high pressure mixture of that to blow all that stuff out.
Foreign right there. Let's get rid of that. that one. Here we go.
Another piece right here. It escaped me. See that? All right, we're good. So now we take our little rubber gear thing and that's just going to insert right into those grooves on that motor.
See that this goes right there. Then we're gonna take this guy, flip it on over, and set it down into its position here. How's this working? We're off center. Hmm.
yeah. there we go. just kind of give it a wiggle, slides right in, good, and then our bolts. As always, we're going to start all the bolts by hand before applying any kind of torque that one's in number two. Drop that one down in right there. Good switching hands so I can articulate my pangies properly. Get that one threaded down and then the one in the back. That'll be easier to find because there's a hole back there.
I Can feel. maybe there it is. Feel it. It's threading.
it's going in. Threading down good. Let's go ahead and start applying some torque action here. Run that one down I know you guys can't see sorry gravitas and then we'll get our one in the back the one we cannot see I mean we probably could see it if I stuck a camera back there.
but I think you guys can use your imaginations I Hope you can skip this guy. tight. Start with the back one. a little bit of torque there.
tight clickage. Next one, get the one off to the left. Thread that one down all the way. A little bit more torque here, clicks and then the last one right here in front of us.
Here we go. That one's tight. All right. Cool beans.
Okay, let's back up some. We'll get this column back in position and we'll get her bolted into the studs up here on the dash. uh, the dash structure right there. Okay, let's pick this guy up some and we're just going to give it some lift putting everything back into position.
This is the hard part because I actually got a take all the weight here. Bear with me I know you all can't see anymore. There we go. Okay, the column's up all right.
So I've got one of the nuts in to hold this column up. Let's go ahead and start getting the bolts started. Uh, let me find the hole real quick. and there it is.
I Think that's it. Yeah, that's the hole for the bolt. So I need to push the column up some and get that thing lined up and thread it in. there.
We go. It's in there. it's not threaded yet. Bear with me here.
I cannot see or reach. All right. that's one column bolt in. let's get the uh, the other one here.
over on the other side. that one goes in. Let's see if we all can see up there. Yeah, there's the hole.
Okay, take this guy. run it way up into there. get it started coming in with our socket. column clickage.
All right. So the thing's secure. Let's get our plugs reconnected real quick. There's that one.
Got that one already? I Think that's the only two I Disconnected. Oh no, no, there's one. There's one back. uh, like a switch.
Hang on. I missed one. It's under here and in there. Let's see where did I put that guy.
Might have to crawl under to find it. Hang on you guys. Oh there it is. it's not too far away.
I Probably did not even have to disconnect that connector no matter. Plug it in, snap. Okay, that one's good. All right.
I Think that's all the connectors. So let's double check. restarting the engine. Where's my key? Very good. All right. Let's get our little metal knee bolster pan in position here. It's gonna go right there. I Think it's five.
Fasteners Four bolts and one nut. Let's screw all these guys in once. these guys are, uh, falling out once these uh, are all in position. Then we just got to get our plastic panel on and we can check it for proper operations.
Clicks good. Very good. And my plastic pits. where's my plastic piece? All right, we're good here.
He got some knee bolster piece coming in. We'll take our OBD2 connector, snap that guy back into place, there's a connector, and then right here we've got we got like three more connectors. I Think so. let's see where these guys go right here here.
and number three goes here. We can take this guy, tuck our wires back in, and snap this panel back into position. Okay, we're down to that's not a screwdriver. Got one more screw at the bottom of our bolster on the left side.
Screw that guy in kicks, and then the one on the right side right over here panel snapped in. Tighten her down tight kicks. Very good. Okay, let's send the steering column down some because I have the upper cover removed.
Still, actually, there's two upper covers. There's the one for the fuse panel. Put that guy back, we don't need you. and then this one slips down and then snaps into the uh, the bottom part of the bezel.
There There we go and snappage beautifies. Okay, we're all good, with the exception of two more screws over here. On this side. those are the screws that, uh, secure this panel here and down there.
Let's get those guys in and then we'll get that last piece of panel covered back up through non-click Then last one down here in the corner. I Imagine these get left out. dirty. Service: They uh, they seem to be very easy to forget and lose.
It's tight. Good. Last but not least, one less less plus, last, less last, one less last plastic panel. It's got that guy in.
And then we'll take our door trim and fit all that stuff back right where it goes. That's not where it goes. more better. Okey-dokes All of our components are off the floor and back on the car.
Moment of truth: Let's give the steering wheel a shake. and hey, look at that. Victory No more clunky noise of a steering. That's great.
Okay, well. I Learned my lesson. An eight dollar part was responsible, not a 200 steering shaft. That's a big oopsie' on my part.
but hey, my customer got a free steering shaft and uh, and I got to learn something today. Uh, hopefully you guys got to learn something today as well. If you did learn something today about these uh particular. Hyundais Please feel free to let me know what you learned in the comment section.
Uh, down below. Having said all that, there is nothing more for me to do on this particular vehicle at this time except for clean up my mess and enclose this video out. And I Will do such things as always by thanking each and every one of you guys for watching this video. Certainly hope you enjoyed this video and I hope you've already weighed in in the comments section. So again, and as always, thank you guys for watching and most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day! See you guys later in the video End of clunky steering End of comeback that never left the shop End of misdiagnosis End of Hyundai Sonata Into transmission.
Ray you saved my ass this week, i had a kia come in this week with the exact same noise and i rememeber seeing your video on it thank you for posting this!
I have 2014 Hyundai sonata hybrid and have problem with steering when I drive in the highway if the steering turns slightly right or left wouldn't come back to the original direction.
I replaced the steering rack and the coupler but problem doesn't resolved.
I have to do this on my camry thank you for showing this repair it will help a ton! 😊
Did you seriously give that steering motor a “reach around”???. 👀
Gray-haired Protech tip: What causes rubber to become brittle is the lost of its plasticizers or what’s also known as plasticizer migration. (it’s actually what contributes to & gives cars that “new car smell”).
You should’ve and could’ve and I certainly would’ve packed that area with that plastic rubber gear replacement part from Doorman?, with some lithium grease.
Replacing it dry is probably the OEM Why of what causes the high failure rate.
It's called a lovejoy coupler, they have them in conveyor motor to reducer assemblies
What are your thoughts on adding a bit of rubber grease on the rubber iece when replacing it, maybe make it last the distance. Cheers
This is a perfect example of why Ray has a ton of business. Honest work for a fair price. The world needs more people like you! 👍
Gotta remember to check service bulletins, there's at least one about that noise if not more than one.
yup ,don't buy a Hundi
Same fault occurs on Toyota Estima.
@ronniemullis8717> Yes, honest mechanics are VERY hard to come by. Too many will use scare tactics to get you to spend money you don't have to. Thankfully I have mechanical skills and don't mind getting under the hood or wherever, to get the job done.
I found a Rainman in the town we recently moved to. It's like discovering gold. Find yourself a Rainman. I had a weird sound in the steering column. He checked it out, drove it a few times. Could not duplicate the problem. How much? …nothing
now you can put the old steering shaft back in n return the new one.
Great video thanks
That part is called a spider
I've seen those types of couplings on postal sorting equipment. We called those lovejoy couplings.
I believe that part is called a lovejoy Ray. love the videos Ray Im so glad to meet an honest and funny mechanic keep up the good work Ray
I was skeptical on that steering shaft in the first place, but you had a lot of confidence, lol!
That part reminds me of a coupler out of a washing machine that goes on the end of the motor
Link for the broken part???
Would this be a similar process on a 2013 Camry? I got the same clicking noise in my steering column. If going down the road high speed or down bumpy roads it rattles. No issues with actual steering. No pulling or binding felt
Just curious if you unhooked the battery before starting this procedure ?
Also little dab of lock-tite/thread locker would have been great insurance on the steering shaft bolts.
Really awesome job. It's these kinds of actions that make me feel better about me being open minded and humble. What was the name of the part you installed in the steering motor? Thanks for teaching me this repair.
What a troubleprone part that cheap plastic part looks like. Bound to happen again especially with a Dorman replacement. Typical Korean.
If a harder steering effort was mentioned,,it could have helped.
South Korean Steering Column Drama
DAMN DUDE My wife has been having this issue ever since she brought her sonata in for a recall the tech told her that nothing was wrong they can't fix it it was part of the recall. If I need to take this car in for this that shouldn't be to bad of a bill. Thanks for the info man you're awesome.
Hey I would have not thought about that little rubber piece, but I realised that I should have known better because I’ve come across something like this in bigger bearings I used to fit doing a maintenance job along time ago 😂
My Kia has started making the same noise this week. I ordered the part from the main dealer, it was £2 in the UK, about $3.50. I nearly ordered one from eBay, which was ten times the price. It's not often the OEM part is cheaper! Keep up the great videos Ray.
Have the literal same issue, you saved me a lot of digging around the steering hardware with this video, thank you!
Wouldn't it last long if you coated it in silicone grease???….
Test Drives are allays what we want to see!
Where's the test drive !
Functional obsoleteness !
Bad engineering!
Curb strike probably took it out!
We had a 2013 Kia Optima that had the electric assisted steering box fail and luckily it was still under warranty, after installing a new complete unit it didn't keep wanting to turn in the direction the wheel was started in when you got past center BUT! it now steered like a car at a carnival ride in that sitting still you could put a finger in the spokes and give it quick flip and it would free spin until it reached full lock. Made it super easy to park but was a real thrill on the open road as there was absolutely no resistance in the steering and was hard to keep in your own lane even until you got used to the free steering action. It was OK though because we traded it in on a 2015 Optima LX, the sales guy had the service writer drive it to the trade in lot and he came back and asked "how the hell did you keep that in one lane?" I told him that I had been complaining about that since you put in the new box but after a couple of tries and wanting a new car anyway we thought it would be fixed if we traded it o because you wouldn't want an unsuspecting buyer crash it on a test drive, and surprise!! That got it fixed almost immediately.
I learned to not buy a Hyundai!
It’s referred to as a lovejoy connection when in water circulation pumps.
Very distinctive noise clicking in the wheel from eps insolater .we all have our miss diagnostic kis Hyundai gm have to very furmilure w this ..I usually see them w tie rods wasted links bad and also eps noise
Thats a coupling and its the spider that was shot…normal wear and tear on those type of couplings
What I learned was that you are the only mechanic I've ever heard of that doesn't pass along the cost of their misdiagnosis mistakes to their customer. It's not just rare, its un-heard-of.
Being a tech means working blind at times
Looks like a Lovejoy coulpler
They actually call that a spider (no idea why lol) they use that kinda of coupling a lot on AC motors
Hi Ray great two videos, easy enough error to make & brilliant to see honesty.. On the second video the rubber part is known in Ireland as a cusion drive 😁…..
honestly if that were my car this part would be a remove and do not replace. Completely pointless motor
Yup just like said the plastic gear inside broke common issue
We call that part a spider gear
Spider coupler used for motor/gearbox connections. Industrial maintenance tech and have changed a lot of those.
Huh it looks a lot like a love joy coupler for hydraulics like to connect a small engine to a hydraulic pump very similar
I just did this repair on a 2012 Kia soul. This was so common there was a recall/extended warranty about it. My car was out of warranty for it so I bought the part at the dealer for $3.72 and replaced it myself in about 2 “lazy take my time” hours.
I have 168k miles on 2018 forester and never had any issues, but the parts that actually wears down like struts, brakes, rotors, bearings, and such lol
Its crazy just how many small, seemingly insignificant parts, can create such a problem.
A cheap plastic part in a crucial component? Bad engineering.
Amazing how you haven't ran across one yet.
I tsb’s are your friend ray lol
My 2001 Whirlpool washing machine has a similar rubbery coupling that destroys itself in the same way! (But it's 3 inches in dismeter).
120000 miles? And still on the road 😮
Great learning experience for us all. Thank you for sharing 👍👍👍
I learned that I don't want a Hyundai.
Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
On the motors I have used this type of coupler on (Lovejoy Coupler) it is the spider, it transmits the torque while dampening vibrations and shocks through the system.
It was actualy a campaign in europe by Hyundai a while back, did the same thing after calling a buddy that worked at Hyundai.
A lot of shops would have charged the customer for the shaft and the new part as well as labor. Honest Ray. I too would have given him the money for the shaft.
i learned to not buy a hyundai
This guy must be loaded to have such an exotic gas mixture for cleaning. /j
Oh yeah. The take away is to not buy a Hyundai!
What's the part name? Or part #
They are still JUNK.
Ray.. that is called a lovejoy coupler and they make a harder rubber one that wont ware out as quickly…
Love your honesty!
I swear, I want to move my family from Texas(aka new california) to Florida…. could one day be an applicant who is older(?11/86) than you! Spent 8 years so far being a stay home dad, and mechanic.
Years before, a driver/mechanic for an obs 7.3 hauling 30yd+ roll off dumpsters(truck broke output shafts, ring gears, pinion gears and twisted driveshafts FAR too often, because of the overloaded dumpsters)
You did the job much quicker than myself changing that damn little coupler. On the previous video I was shouting at the screen " IT"S NOT THE UNIVERSAL JOINT IT"S THE COUPLER" but I knew you'd find it in the end.
Regarding Hyundai: Facepalm. 🤦🏼♂ This $8.00 plastic bushing/spider failure may be the reason I shipped a few $1,000+ electric-assist steering columns when I worked at Hyundai Mobis a few years ago.
Regarding your ethic and perseverance: Top-notch. You'll recover the cost of that sector shaft in no time. More important is the lesson learned. Always a good thing.
Love these Hyundai/Kia steering motor insulator repairs, fairly easy and customers knows there is a BIG difference since the annoying noise is gone!
Nice work!
Great video as always @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Ray, I hope you chose to not show us you reconnecting the wires to the steering column before you liftted it up and screwed it into place…..maybe I'm just jumping the gun and need to watch to the end before commenting…but I noticed that and its bugging me.
Not to be an ass BUT the knock didn't 'come back'! It never left
It looks like a lovejoy coupling. The rubber or urethane fails eventually. In industrial automation (conveyors/fixture raising or lowering equipment) they're usually easy to get to and replace.
I had to replace that same little plastic gear in a 2012 Kia Soul I used to own. Took me about 5 hours crawling around on my gravel driveway in the Texas sun 🙁
No need to drop the steering shaft, Its such gravy work. 30 min job tops if you know the shortcut! Through the fusebox and cluster removal!
I never liked doing underdash stuff & watching it reminded me of all that discomfort. but I still gave you a like.
Your a good man Ray you made an honest mistake and because of that you bit the bullet and owned up to it honesty is key and that customer will be garunteed to use you in the future you for sure gained that customers respect dont ever change man this world needs more people like you
Crappy engineering…common failure I assume? Nylon part instead of rubber? 122k and steering failure.
FYI: "Hyundai " is pronounced to rhyme with "Sunday".
the rubber thing is called a coupling spider or just a spider
Yep this is a super common issue with this gen of Hyundai.
Replaced mine myself for 15$ and about an hour or so of work.
The hardest part was getting the column bracket aligned.
Lil stubby screw driver and the bolt make it simple.
Ray next you’ll have a small mirror to accommodate but I don’t expect you to do that. Ray you probably have more viewer for your honest. You have a great day Ray
All id like to say is Reee
not trying to be a smartass, but it's called a lovejoy coupling. what failed I've always heard called a spider. they generally fail due to age and or misalignment. in this case I am betting more so on a poor quality material chosen for the spider.
So common on these cars. I replaced many.
Another video shows a long cross bolt across top of column that needs to be removed so column can be pulled out slightly and dropped down. DIY AUTO HOMESCHOOL
It helps to have friends below.
Hey Ray, That is like a cush rubber on the rear wheel of a a motorcycle.
they need better rumble packs