In this video I torque the head on. I use a "Time-Sert" Part # 2200 Kit Approved by Toyota / Scion for cylinder head bolt repair, to repair a 2004 Rav4 with stripped out head bolts. Please refer to your shop manual for the proper repair.
Watch the whole series CLICK HERE: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLaJW8Ju80ORZy2ySuiyKYfHJDD0AaDaDK
Watch the whole series CLICK HERE: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLaJW8Ju80ORZy2ySuiyKYfHJDD0AaDaDK
TIP: Split the final 90 degrees in TWO 45 DEGREE increments. It will be easier on your arm and the head will settle better. It does take a bit longer, but results are better for your arm and the cylinder head to block seal.
Great video man watching you torque it is definitely nerve-wracking, I'm up next!!
Erica dam good job the kit is swell in my books .i have done a lot of hello coils to if you don't get them straight from the start you are a goner for sure well done
Sam
I agree 100% with Steven K. . You did a super job Eric, please keep those great videos coming !!! Paul Kerst, PA.
I am about to do this job on a 2003 Camry with the 2.4 L Engine. Up to this point I was good with it, now I am really nervous LOL. I better make sure my torque wrench is on the spot and I pay attention to the 90 degree thing. Oh Boy. LOL. As far as making the mark, that is what the Toyota service manual suggests to ensure the correct turn angle.
As we say โsqeaky bum timeโ tightening those head bolts.Once again a brilliant video.Many thanks.๐ด๓ ง๓ ข๓ ท๓ ฌ๓ ณ๓ ฟ
Great work as always Eric O Yikes I can see while you were torquing them head bolts it looked like they were going to snap glad it went well @SouthMainAutoRepairLLC
I appreciate you. Love the channel, keep it up. Because I see that you can do it, I can do it. Thank you.
yamaha outboard head bolts are made to stretch feels sketchy torquing um, hate it
how does the rachet know where 90 degrees is ?
Don't worry about that shoulder. It'll get so much better as you get older. Believe me I know ๐ฅด
Headbolt inserts should have a bad pullout game. Gatcha
C130 engine mounts are 400 ft lbs
Those Timeserts look like the way to go. Iโve had a helicoil blow out on a 350cc Honda M/C head less than a year after installing it and it was the only head bolt held down by the helicoil…..not a big fan!
ARP if your listening make studs for these
I bet you are glad you've trusted your gut feeling and did all 10 inserts. In this case you eliminated a chance of stripping since you've completely removed weakend threads and created new ones which are larger in diameter, so they can withstand more shear load then OEM. The inserts are definitely not the weakest point since they are made of much stronger material and press fitted as well.
Like your diligence and attention to details, rare qualities in today's field of automotive repair business (been replaced by negligence and greed lately).
Happy 2021 to you and your family.
Greetings from South Africa.
Eric,your shoulder popped at exactly 58 ft/lbs!๐ณ
What youโre doing is stretching the bolts so they donโt loosen when hot. Aircraft engine case bolts (recip) and cyl bolts are treated the same way. No sweat!
Helicoils or thread inserts are usually fine on stuff that doesn't get cycled very much. The only time I've ever really run into issues with them is on stuff like oil drain plugs that get loosened and tightened all the time.
A lot of eu motors have stretch bolts they actually stretch they can only be used once buying head sets for these head bolts come with the sets
Who else was holding their breath during the torque sequence ? I have stripped head threads in aluminium, I wish the manufacturer would use studs and nuts instead of bolts into the softest metal known to man.
83 Ft. Lbs. on an aluminum block for head bolts EEeee….! No! Even on a SBC the head bolts only get torqued to 60-70 Ft. Lbs! The manual states "47" Ft Lbs, final torque. Never use the "turn 90 deg" method, EVER! That's when bolts start breaking or threads start letting go.
Before I had the snappy digital torque I'd use red, white and blue paint when there where 3 torque stages.
Good job Eric.
I would have set the wrench to 88 deg… just to give me that extra cushion!! ha!
Obviously the fix worked but I wouldn't worry about threaded inserts coming out. We use them where I work as mil-spec in 6061 alloy and the general consensus is that they are much stronger than aluminum by itself.
Anyone that has ever carefully tightened down a bolt and then heard that gut wrenching "crunch" was right there alongside you on that final torquing. You appear to be a very caring mechanic who makes sure that he does everything correctly, and that gives credence to what another well know "car guy" always says at the end of his shows, and that is, "Good mechanics aren't expensive, they're priceless"! Great video sir.
Awwww , the brake thing drop would've been priceless , ๐๐๐๐… at least ya thought about it …. i would've done it … while you were carrying , have josh ready with the brake parts , have hanna wiggle , jostle , lay camera over like it fell , not on you facing away on floor . That would've been great .
You didn't put Teflon on the first sensor you installed, I assume it's because the circuit return path is thru the block.
after your done wave a dead chicken over it scare away evil spirits
most head jobs suck / theres no fun way to do one !
a lot of jobs like that you eat your shirt been there ! people dont under stand
you try to be a nice guy , but you cant very very time consuming !
wears you down to a nub —- not a gravy job !
Rewatching, I think Eric ya got your shoulder reset in this video. Hehe Ya a chiropractor and ya didn't even know it. ๐คฃ
Long torque to yield bolts all feel like that, some of our engines use head bolts the thread into the main web, they are torque to 80 ftlbs and turn 210 degrees. You don't think that is sketchy. I use arp bolt lube.
Hondas and toyotas,,love time serts,,, pre order it,400.00 600.00 dollars. Money not well spent….I call them hand grenades,, cars rock ๐
Felpro head bolts yield too much. I've made the mistake of using them on Subarus and they feel like they're going to break when you torque them.
A couple of times I have seen you mention freight orders having their seals cracked and items stolen/swapped out. Is that a disease within the transport industry over there or what is it? We rarely get that over here in Australia. Generally freight just goes "missing" as a complete order. What's the go there?
"Place the cylinder head quietly…."
That seems a little excessive for such a small motor๐ฒ! For a big block it's 75 ft-lbs. (longย bolts) 65 ft-lbs. (shortย bolts) and this seems way too much for this car…. No wonder the bolts stript out on the other ๐คฌ what were they thinking when they torqued these heads in?
Just torque the bolts until you feel the threads start to pull, then tighten two additional turns.
You should use thread tape when putting into a water/oil jacket.
Eric it seems to me that with all the labor cost (much time), the head work farmed out, gasket parts, shop parts, and insert kit that this is a incredible expensive repair that would well exceed the true real value of the vehicle? It's not like it is a rare sought after exotic sought after auto, or belongs to aunt Nellie.
How on earth can that torque wrench possibly 'know' when it has rotated through 90 degrees? It's easy enough with torque- the bar is deflected a certain amount and a sensor of some sort gets tripped at the required torque figure, but degrees??Does it watch its surroundings and beep when it sees they're 90 degrees from its starting point? Just amazing!
Inserts like that (steel in aluminum) are used in aerospace applications where high strength bolting and/or repeated assembly/disassembly is required. Because the aluminum (weak) thread diameter/thread area is much larger, if done correctly (good drillng/tapping, etc. which that kit should do with appropriate care taken "installing" it) it will be MUCH stronger than the original thread, ESPECIALLY if the thread is heavily stress cycled (thermal/physical) or the bolt is removed installed many times. The last part is often why studs, rather than bolts are used in high strength applications (especially cast) threaded holes requiring multiple assembly/disassembly/reassembly applications. Every time a bolt is removed, reinserted, and re torqued the thread is further weakened.
ย I have MANY times wondered why bolt and hole threads are tapped at the same pitch in VERY high stress applications, since often one side (usually the bolt) stretches more than the hole, and as such only the top few threads are carrying most or all of the load…just sayin'. I guess the problem would be that it would have to be material/structure/etc. dependent, and that would make it a clustermess to implement. I could be done today, though, with CNC machining, rather easily, I expect, but you would have to cut, rather than tap the hole…big deal….but as we all know (from the ankle biting bean counters) every millicent counts.
Im like timesert I dont pull out.
I have 15 kids.
Props to having pride in your work and more importantly, having quality work ethic. Its a rarity.
The fact that you did all 10 head bolts is a reflection of that. Most "mechanics" would've said well they aint stripped so why waste my time.
You did the right thing. There was a recall on those heads(from what ive heard) and you just fixed the problem permanently(hopefully).
Not to mention i can only assume the customer paid all 450 dollars for the time serts so he might as well get all the inserts he paid for.
This was a nail biter… I was glad you were doing the torquing, and not me. I certainly would have twisted one of those bolts out of the threads
Nice!!
when i tighten head bolts my friend literally says "ewwww" because it looks like they are about to get real loose real fast xD