Hello again, jeep we're on day 22 video, two and uh. I went into all data and uh. I i was entertained when i pulled up the wiring diagram, you see back in the day, all daddy used to come on. Like a rolodex of cds, you have to put the cd in depending on the make and model of the car in the ear, and it would pull up all the service info for that vehicle.

Well, when you needed a diagram, you'd have to pull it up and then print it out, because the computer was so slow reading the disk and then repopulating that on the screen that when you would try to scroll down the page, it would blank out. And then it would have to reload, so it took forever to go over a diagram. Furthermore, most of the diagrams back then were actually scanned and digitized out of the paper copies similar to to this diagram right here. So you would see one page like this, and then you would see another page like that after you reloaded it and moved over to the the next hyperlink, and so what we used to do is print them out and then tape them together and make one big Diagram - and i ended up doing that with this jeep when i pulled up this wiring diagram with a fuel gauge sender, and it just it kind of brought me back a little bit, and i just i wanted to share that moment with you guys anyway.

Now we're going to uh go ahead and proceed and diagnose the issue with the fuel gauge running full peg when it's feed on so we're on now, and it just runs up to uh nearly the full mark, yep, that's where it hangs out. So i i do not know how much fuel is in this truck, but i do know that that's the complaint we're going to have to solve so first things. First, we're going to follow our fuel gauge. We've got a power supply and we've got a set of common grounds, uh, assuming that these are good, because the gauge does actually sweep and function when it's powered on, and it appears that the coolant temp gauge has been functional.

So i'm assuming that everything that supports these two uh, these two gauges is working which is going to be our power and it's going to be our ground source right here now we've got a third wire for the fuel gauge, and that is our communication wire from The fuel gauge sending unit which is inside of the tank. What i want to do first, is we're going to go down below and we're going to find our ground there's a ground somewhere that comes off of that connector. On top of the tank we're going to check and make sure that that ground is good once we verify that we will find either this connector or this connector, c111 or c138, and we're going to disconnect that we're going to probe it with the meter and we're Going to get a resistance value, i'm looking for somewhere between 0 and 88 ohms. You may end up with um.

You know 300 ohms or you know it could get an ol reading. So uh, let's uh, let's proceed! I'm gon na go lift this thing up. We're gon na find these connectors and we're gon na try to disconnect it. I've already looked before and i i didn't.

I didn't locate what i was looking for so uh. We may have to pull the tank out to get to this connector. We may not uh. Let's uh: let's go down below and find out okie dokes.

We are back down under the jeep. I found a trans fluid leak. While i was down here and i located some loose uh pan bolts, it looks like this: is a new trans, see how it's nice and shiny, but the bolts were kind of loose and that cork gasket up there doesn't help. So i torque those down a little bit harder with a quarter inch ratchet anyway.

That's really not what we're doing down here, i'm looking for that connector for this fuel level. Sender and i do not see any wires running along the frame - i'm assuming it must come down from the body and if it does it's coming from up in here somewhere underneath this panel. So let's go ahead and pull this panel down and see if we cannot locate that connector in that ground wire. This pains me because this has all been painted and my socket is going to scratch the paint, so i may have to re-spray paint this when we're done, because i'd hate to scratch up their finish.

We'll just leave that threaded for now in case this shield also holds the uh fuel tank in and it does. I think it does. Oh, maybe not, let's keep going uh. No, that holds the tank in i'm glad.

I left some bolts in there to take the tank down. I just want to find that connector. That's all i'm really! Looking for here okey-dokes, i went around the front and got the other bolts out of the front of this cover. It looks like the cover and the tank are just gon na come down.

At the same time, i don't think i can uh just take the cover down. We'll see i mean i don't know, this is kind of a weird setup because it's like the tank is inside of the cover, but then it's strapped to the cover just weird and the tank is stuck. Oh no well seems to be very stuck take it apart. Some more pull the tank down and forward some, and i found it there it is.

I found the connector uh that i was looking for. This is the harness that runs uh straight into the sending unit, and let's see i'm going to assume that's a ground wall. Strong wire smashed see that's smashed right. There yeah, i think, that's the ground and the remainder of these i'm assuming is going to be uh power and then a return line, or something like that.

Let's, let's bust out the meter and the diagram again, if i can get this disconnected, it's still kind of wedged way up in there, and i can't see. I know you can't see, there's the clip i can. I can feel it. Okay, oh well.

What is that? It's got a bent, pin it's a pin, loaded full of solder, that's weird on the ground side, which is great where's, the uh where's, the other side of that connector lost retracted. All right that one looks okay, looks pretty good all right. Okay, i have my meter out. It is set to resistance and i turned on the alarm.

So i've got the leads here. I have a jumper lead just for extra long reach attached to both sides and we're just going to check that ground wire to make sure it has continuity between the eyelet and uh and the pin that we saw and then we're gon na check it. On the other side of the connector to make sure it's getting ground connection from this side of the connector over here to this side, uh all this stuff looks fairly new, and if you look at the top of the tank, i saw some shiny where the hoses Come out so i do believe that sending unit has been replaced so uh, let's just verify the circuit first before we do anything else. Okay, so my leads are good connection is good.

Let's uh, let's probe the wires over here, let's unplug this guy again, so we see our black wire, it comes out and it splits right here. You see it splits there again. Okay, i want to test our ground wire and make sure it's not broken at the spooky solder stuff. That's good! Okay, let's plug it in and i'm gon na test it across the connector and see if it is actually making a connection it might be.

It might not be survey. Said connections made okay, let's check the uh, the signal wire while we're there. I believe that the uh, this tan wire, is unused. That's making connection all right.

Let's check the actual resistance of the circuit here. Push my meter turn off the alarm. If we recall from the diagram, it tells us that the full mark is 88 ohms and half full is 44 empty is zero. Okay, so i believe we're looking for circuit b.

That's this one here, we'll just probe is from the back that way. I don't have to hold them. It's a very tight squeeze, so it'll hold itself in there. Look at there we're getting 112 ohms too many ohms try to move around the uh.

The float in there give it some tap tap. Oh 130. 140. 150.

Maybe this uh level sender is faulty. It looked new and saw that it was shiny, uh with 111 ohms. That puts us uh out of spec uh on an empty tank. Uh we can see again from the diagram empty should be zero ohms and it's showing the full is 88.

So it's showing past full, so a tank's gon na come out something's going on with uh this level cinder. Okay, i'm just gon na pull this unit out with the tank still in the car. The way that it is, i don't want to detach the filler neck hoses and all that other stuff over there. Space is kind of dumb and very limited a couple things caused it.

There's a exhaust hanger over here, that's a little wider than it should be, and there's some bolts that somebody put in for the leaf springs that are kind of too long and they're reaching out and they're interfering with the area where the tank needs to go and Uh, i don't want to take the leaf springs out to get the fuel tank out. Just spilled, 20 bucks. Stop it. There showed you so, okay, maybe he just cracked out doesn't appear to be stuck.

Let's get this out of here. Hey come down here! Look at this you're gon na like this, so i've got the meter back on it now remember: zero is empty and 88 is full okay. So i've got the meter here uh. Let me adjust you guys real quick.

I want to get all this in one shot. Okay, so if we follow the meter up through its range resistance is going up, see that so it's actually operating in spec watch this i found that we just went ol and i'm pulling i'm pulling back. Uh move this in the frame like this way. I said: look at 130 right there where's that dead spot.

We saw it oh well again. I saw like 400 ohms at one point. Oh look at that yeah. Three.

350. 500 yeah. This uh this unit is junk. Okay, we're uh we're back over on my bench, and i've got these two units lined up with each other.

We're gon na transfer some parts around uh. This is actually the the wrong part. I have come to find out it'll, be a minor setback, but not a huge deal. If we look at the connector on the new unit compared to the connector on the old unit, we can clearly see this is not the right connectors, but i'm just going to transfer those over shouldn't be a problem.

Hmm, it doesn't feel as bad as this one did yeah that one's a lot more flippity-floppy. Okay, all right! I think this will work. It's gon na work out, let's go ahead and get the pickup strainer installed and we'll place the gasket and then uh we'll flip. These around and cut the connectors off and then uh reconnect them.

Oh yep, you go in here that doesn't fit very well. Look at that chunk! Wow! It's like everything i have to do is it needs to be custom, see if this one fits any better yeah that one fits this one. That's no, and if i use these clamps on this, it's going to clamp on evenly they're going to be digging into the rubber and it's going to be garbage. I'm disappointed in society.

I'm just kidding it's not that bad, but seriously. I'm i'm disappointed. This could be better yeah, i see what they did. They gave us a big enough hose to fit over the strainer, and this was the metric for measuring the hose diameter to put in the kit, leaving this to be a second thought.

So i think, since that's not going to work, i'm just going to use the strainer and the hose from the old unit transfer that to the new unit. Oh, you know what this has to come off, i'm not having a good time! Oh yeah! No, i'm actually not. What is this right now phone seriously wow that was on there? I'm assuming this unit also serves as the same unit for the version of this fuel tank and jeep. That has the electronic fuel pump and this one is carbureted, so it does not have electronic fuel pumps you're going to go here.

Basically, we have to take parts from two el chipo units to make one functioning unit. That's what's going on here: uh gasket yeah! Let's go ahead and slip the gasket on and then we'll put the bolt through it he's over there. Oh no they're, not gon na okay, that one's gon na hold it okay, the gasket's in all the bolts are through it. That's going to hold the gasket into place now i just need to cut off and transfer that connector over.

Let's do that next, oh, i failed look at that. I didn't put the bolt through the top plate, silly ray. Eventually, i'm going to figure out what i'm doing here, so i got the plate on bolts and gaskets on now we do the connector okay. I think i would like to solder these because there is potential or they couldn't experience some mechanical strain.

They are also exposed to the elements, and so i don't want to use a crimp connector. So i think that's just gon na be the best way to do it. Just solder and heat shrink and then heat shrink over the heat shrink and then wire loom over the heat shrink. That's already over the heat shrink, that's the plan.

Now one of these wires is not used and i think it's the orange one and the orange is not used. So i'm just going to take that away, because why solder a wire that i don't need just reconfirm that there's our blue one on the this side, which is the brown wire goodbye orange wire, we don't need you here, you're dead to me on the harness side. We do not need the tan wire, we do use the green wire so i'll, just lob that off too bye today, that's good times two. This is the heat shrink that will go over the heat shrink and then one piece for each individual circuit.

There we go. Bear with me this can get kind of boring, there's no particular reason why i'm doing it this way other than i feel like. I want to try to get the best mechanical bond that i can on this just in case this wire ever gets tugged on. There are many methods, but this one is mine: do a real tight twist there.

This wire is thinner than this one, so i'm just gon na double them, both back into uh the direction of thinner wire. All right. Let's do this. Let's rock and roll more heat there we go we'll set it up right there, like that, all good okie dokes, our new harness, is constructed.

We're heat shrunk, let's put the loom back on and uh throw this guy back in the tank. This is the new plan on the non-planned man. Okay slide that over there i don't really care for that. It's kind of loose put some tape on it, so it can't come off good and just for fun there better than it was engineering improved.

Some of you were wondering about the motor mount and uh they have yet to uh. Let me know if we're gon na do the mount or not, maybe later it may be today i don't know yet. Okay, let's see we'll do where's the float float. That's gon na go in first followed by the strainer.

There we go and then we point the hoses where they go and our bolts are lining up. Oh yeah, oh yeah, yeah, yeah, good, good, good! Hmm! This is working. I don't know if they're threading or not. I think they are yeah.

These are threading uh-oh. My battery trim intermission all right one battery later good. Let's connect the fuel lines again uh this one is in the back, and that was the front okay. I remember i remember because the front line i remember, moving the clamp farther down come here, yeah all right, let's get out of here and lift this tank up, mirror flashlight everything looks good route, the wire, where it goes tank, moving up a little farther forward.

I need more space that way: yeah good, oh yeah. Let's connect our connectors. While we're here looks pretty good. I want to.

I want to bend that one back centered a little bit. I don't know why there's solder in there, but it's there be able to spend that back ever so slightly. Okay, all right! That's in this is good all right. Moving back up, let's see, let's line our bolt holes up, we have to go left to go like an inch left.

Pry bar more pry bar, always more pry bar down some and left come on now move over. What are you doing? It's naturally favoring the right. It doesn't want to go where i want it to go. This displeases me i'll just pick it up and push it in there yeah get over there.

Let's try that we're close we're almost there push on one side and pry on the other. There all right. It's over now: let's lift it up until it meets one of the pegs and bolts. Okay, let's lift it up until it meets one of the studs because we're right there get over there we're close right there caption.

You know the scene from apollo 13 jack swaggart's uh the astronauts scene, where he uh docked the two spacecraft together and then said: caption yeah, i don't know it's fun for me to say: that's why i do it. The apollo 13 movie is the reason i should have been an astronaut, i'm not having fun. It's a wasted day. Click.

Okay, let's put our ground wire back on it's uh, it's free, the harness is free, it's not pinched and i'm glad i extended that a little bit just because now there's a little bit more room for this harness to move around your ground wires. I don't know what this blue wire is, for. I think it's for lights or something like that. Okay, let's check the gauge, keep coming down all the way down all right moment of truth.

Keying on here we go all right. It's working. We win all right guys. Victory has been achieved.

I think that's gon na be a wrap for this one. As always. I hope you liked this video. If you did like this video, you know the drill.

Let me know about that by tap tap on that. Like button down below that's what lets me and youtube know that i've done a good job here today and if youtube thinks i've done a good job. It's far more likely to recommend my content to other potential viewers, that's good for me! That's also good for them. If you did not like this video, i'm sorry, i can't do anything about that.

So again, as always, thank you for watching and most importantly, have yourselves a great day see you guys later ending jeep transmission. Oh yeah, i forgot about the motor mount. I have not heard back yet on whether or not i'm going to do that. If i am then i will and if i'm not, then i'm just going to go ahead and back this out and park it.

So i don't think we're going to do it. At least not today, safety, even though i can see procedures procedure, i'm a nerd like that there we go so much more better earth, pink this wire, too stop or i'll paint the whole car.