Get in there, it's not going in. Why aren't you going in? Hello everybody, Good day to you! Welcome back Now you guys are here! I Know I'm super glad to be here. This vehicle we're climbing into is a 2007 Dodge Grand Caravan with 206 427 miles on the odometer customer States Clicking noise from Front End while driving. So what we're gonna need to do here is, uh, go drive it.

recreate said clicking noise. Why is there a red oil life indicator indicated? Uh, hang on a minute here. We're not driving anywhere. Let me pull this into the shop real quick and make sure it's got oil in it and then, uh, if it does, we'll go try to replicate that clicking noise.

Or if it does not, I'll put oil in it. Then we'll go try to drive and replicate that clicking noise. It does not sound like it has no oil pressure. It doesn't sound great, but it does not sound like it has no oil pressure.

so maybe that's a false light. Bad sensor, some of that nature powering down. Let's see what's going on with this unit popping the hood? Come here. All right.

Doge Crama Van Do you have oil in you? Or Piccadillo here? Where's your lever? there? It is all right. We've got the 3.8 liter V6 engine in this particular vehicle. See, we've got for engine oil here and the dipstick says we have oil, it's in the safe Zone That's okay. Uh, what is this? There's a wire for the connector and it's not connected I Wonder if this goes to the oil pressure sender? Where's the sender and why is it sitting on top? the EGR So many questions.

Okay, well that's a one wire connector and I believe that's for the pressure sending unit has oil in it. So let's go out and hit the road real quick. We'll go on a quick test drive and see if uh, we cannot duplicate that clicking noise from a under the front suspension restarting Z engine. Let's get out of here.

Unfortunately I must commit the cardinal sin of driving a customer's vehicle I Had to move the seat back was necessary Open Says Me and we're off. I Always like the shifters in these Dodge vans. they they rotate as they come back. I Don't know, it's just me.

Let's try to do some maneuvering in the parking lot here. see if we can't figure out sound. There is a lot of vibrations going on. It's got a bad motor mount or something.

Let's give this thing a turn. Oh yeah, I Hear it All right. Lots of clicking noises. Okay, all right.

well that was fast. I think I've heard enough. Uh, back to the service stall we go. We don't have to go very far I have duplicated the customer's concern.

Let's get this thing up on a lift Clues says me: Okay, let's get this thing up onto the lift and we'll give it a visual undercarriage inspection. We'll check on those motor mounts too while we're there. I'm gonna check the suspension I Think we have an axle issue. That's what it sounds like.

so stay tuned because this is gonna be a very good video opening. Z Hood Here's our brake rotor. There was our brake rudder. All right right about there.

lift arm or slash post is at the driver, that center of gravity. I Think we're good. It's proxy. Auto Powered down and let's get this thing up in the air.

Okie Dokes lift arms are set both sides. black subscribe button Grandma Van moving on up and all the way up and right about there is good on the locks lock pickages. Okay, let's go ahead and get that uh, front wheel off right there I Believe that was the suspected noisy clicking area this one. 19.

All right, let's see we can do about getting these nuts off here. Uh, One thing we need to notice is these are Chrome capped Acorn style nuts and two of them are missing the Chrome cap. So although those are a 19 mil, these ones are actually now an 18 millimeter. because the Chrome has come off.

It's like a two-piece kind of deal or whatever. Get back. This wheel's had some curb action before. See that some grindage there's the 18.

fits over just perfectly. If you try a 19 on those, it will slip and it'll round that thing off thus making it more difficult to remove. Yeah, you can see this has been slipped a couple times. See right there.

Yep, not okay. I Mean it works, but get out of the right size socket. All right wheel. What do we got here? Brake pad looks good.

Rotor looks good. We got some grease in here and that's our winner winner chicken dinner. Yeah, that's it. The uh.

The boot has torn and consequently contaminants have entered into the axle joint. see in there? Yeah, that's become contaminated due to exposure to the atmosphere. It's going to need a uh replacement. CV Axle: That's definitely our clicking noise.

That's what it sounded like to me when we were driving it. especially while uh, while turning. So I believe we need an axle. let's go check the bottom out.

A little bit more in detail here. I Want to see if it has a broken engine mount? It's okay. Oh I See what we're doing here? Okay, so that wire up there is for the old pressure sender, but it has been deleted and we looks like we have a manual pressure gauge in there. You see that hose? Yeah, that's uh.

it's been replaced with a manual style pressure gauge. This motor mounts junk. See that? That's a lot of our vibrations right there. See how the bolt is sitting down at the bottom of the mount? Yeah, we can see the stud that runs through and that motor mount's wasted.

Okay, that's part of that issue. We've got some leakage going on. Looks a lot like oil pan to me and there's a bunch leaking up there, but lots of saturation around this thing that seal right there is leaking that transmission seal. Okay, again, more oil pan, more stuff up top you can.

and we got a lot of leaks going here. I Mean for a quarter million miles because that's about right. If you can see way up, there, looks like there's a valve cover leak as well. Okay, it is.

The pressure washer treatment. Probably has a rear main seal that leaks seal all right. Well, our primary focus is that clicking noise. Let's check this axle real fast.

Make sure we don't have to do two. That one looks good. Okay, Motor mount check. Go ahead and start it.

please. Thank you darling. Okay, foot on the brake. put it in Drive reverse.

Give it some gas or I'll do it nevermind. I got it. I'll do it. That one broke that was broke.

You know the one down below is broke I'm up one in the back that one's broke. put it in forward. that was bro. Okay, all motor mounts are broken and I just heard a spark plug thick too spark jump.

All right. you can shut her down. Thank you All right guys. Looks like we're good to go.

We're gonna start uh on this job with uh, this axle seal uh or axle and seal like I said. that was one of the primary things that they brought it in here for. So we're gonna go ahead and do what they wanted first. and uh, we're waiting to hear back on the motor mounts and uh, there's also an issue with some lights out back.

it's gonna need a uh, a tail lens assembly. I'm also waiting to hear back on that. so surveying the situation, on how we're going to get this disassembled. I know I've got to pull the uh, this axle nut and big Cotter pan out of here.

That's why I don't like to reuse cotter pins, see that they break, put them back and then they break or they break partially and then they're not capable of doing their job so just change them. They're cheap. Get in there, caught up in it's got a little Tang sticking out right here. It won't go past hole.

Okay, we will employ the side cut trick anyway. as I was saying, I'm trying to determine whether I want to take the uh lower ball joint out and pull this assembly backwards to clear the axle or if I want to take the tie rod off and remove these two Bolts from the strut and then swing it out this way. I think I can get away with pulling these bolts out of the strut. What I'll do in order to prevent misalignment of the parts is I'll pull one of them out and we'll check it and we'll see if there's any.

Play Between the bolt hole on the knuckle and the bolt hole on the strut. If it's if both holes line up solid with each other and there's no room for, uh, for error, we can just pull these top bolts out. What I'm getting at is I don't want to take the ball joint out? Okay, we got another cotter pin lurking over here on this other side. That's for, uh, our outer tie rod.

Where are you 19 millimeters? Pull that castle nut out and I'll extract it from my socket there now in order to remove this. uh, this tie rod and it's stud from the knuckle. There's a couple ways we can go about that. We can hit it with a hammer as it is and flatten the threads and then damage them which is no good.

Or we can put the castle nut back on and then hit it with a hammer and maybe damage it, but probably not. Or we can use a puller or we can get it to break loose. Uh, with said Hammer I'm going to choose the breaking it Loose method. We're just going to give this a couple Taps and it's going to shock this portion of the knuckle and that should release its grass on the stud.

for that. that tie rod. Loud noises, Nothing crazy. It's a couple a couple good hits.

There we go. Did that work. Negative: Let's thread our castle nut back on. This is, uh, primarily to protect the threads.

All right. Free. See that now. the threads are just fine.

Comes right back off. One more tap. We'll set that guy aside. now.

looking up a little bit, let's pay attention to our two through bolts that secure the strut to the knuckles. Yeah, that's good. Okay, yes, I can hammer on that bolt. You see how the threads meet the taper and they don't go all the way down unless I side swipe that thing with a hammer and hit one of those threads.

It's fine I can do that. So anyway, take a look at our bolt here. There's no wiggle room and no space, so it looks like we're clear to disconnect it right in that area. Which is good.

That's what I wanted to do. Now this is all going according to plan. unless this bottom hole is slotted all right. Is it or isn't it? we're gonna find out.

Survey says that's it. Oh look at that. it is slotted. Oh no.

That makes this. uh, this horse a different color. That's not what I wanted to find in there. Come on out.

bolt. Seriously. Oh no. Turning back.

now. we moved it there. Okay, we're not totally screwed yet. It is slotted, but the strut is slotted.

Not enough. Okay, we're gonna get back to that later. I Think this is gonna be all right because we can just use our witness marks to get it close. All transparency out there, naturally.

I'm going to recommend a wheel alignment after this, but I believe we can get it so close, it actually won't make any bit of a difference. That's unfortunate too. I Totally thought we were gonna get away with uh, ruining my glove. Okay, thank you.

Let's take out our little lock washer in there. Save that for later. Actually, that's not even a lock washer. that's just a regular washer.

All right. Is that thing free? Nope. I Know we'll break it. Loose with some pneumatic linear impacts, head right on out.

Here we go good. and I think Definitely. Yep, that's enough to get to get this axle to come out of here. It works.

Alrighty, let's raise this thing up. and then we boom back up and back down below Again, Here's the inside joint on the CV axle. There's a transmission output. uh, cone.

There's our seal. You see a little red business on there. So what we need to do is get this axle out and, uh, pop that seal out. That was easy.

Came right out, no problem. Okay, let's go ahead and squeeze this uh axle out of here so we can get that seal removed. Come on. Axel You're coming with me.

You know there? Yeah, that's uh, that's pretty nasty in that joint. Look at that. That's uh, it's not okay. Yep, a bunch of stuff.

Finding a lot of extra wear I was making all kinds of noise and it feels loose for that rattle. Not any good. All right. I'm gonna give this seal puller One More Shot I uh I Had used this puller before on uh, on a Cadillac last week and it put a big scratch in the housing for the seal rot row I broke it more than uh, than what I thought.

Look at that. that seal remover put a couple Nicks Three of them put three Nicks in the bore on that axle case. Yeah, I didn't want to do that. All right? Well, no worries I can fix that.

We'll try it one more time and if it, uh, if it does it again I'm throwing it away now. It feels like I've got that hook off of the bore where the seal goes. so I don't think it's gonna touch it. but if it starts, yeah, see this.

This is when it happens. Right when it starts to break loose. I think that's when that's when the scratch occurs. Let me reposition.

maybe light pressure. There we go. Okay, ah, spring came off. A little spring is supposed to sit inside pressure on that seal.

If the spring is disconnected or weak or broken, then there won't be any pressure. Okay, let's squeeze in here a little bit to tell. Wipe that uh, inside, surface. clean.

There we go. Nice and shiny. I've got a new seal here that's our replacement unit and I'm gonna try to use the seal driver kit. It's an Astro kit that I've purchased and had mentioned back in the Cadillac video but it wasn't going to be suitable for the Cadillac.

It's also supposed to be for races and uh, like bearing races and things like that I usually just kind of run these in with a soft Mallet but you guys insist that I use a seal driver so I'm going to try it out. Well it's not that you insist, but there's always someone who's like you're supposed to use a driver on that so I'll do the driver for that one guy. that one, this one's for you. That's good.

There we go. New seal installed okie doke. So I called up the O'reilly's Auto Parts and they sent me over a new CV axle shaft assembly. So what we're gonna do here? put this thing down next to our our old unit on package it and compare it to make sure that it is the uh, the proper replacement and by the way, not sponsored by uh bio Release.

but that's that's just who I called because that's who had the uh the shaft and that's where I wanted to get the shaft. Let's just say speed sensors must be removed before axle install. It's in three languages: Speed Sensors Must Be removed. Why do speed sensors have to be removed? Between this speed sensor we have a discrepancy.

We've got a Gear Drive on this axle for a speed sensor here? That's what they're talking about. So I guess some of these Transmissions would have had a speed sensor on that tail shaft and it would have been a gear driven sensor. And so they're saying to remove the sensor before installing which I Guess you have to remove the sensor to remove the axle so doesn't really make much sense. Another slight discrepancy: There's this little Shield right here I Think that can stay see the splines threads that all looks the same.

Overall dimensions are the same. I I think I can leave that little shield on. let's take a look. Couldn't hurt, it's just going to protect the bearing.

Yeah. I'll try to leave it on if it's a problem. I Can knock it off with a chisel or something like that and this right here. That little Gear Drive that should not be a problem either because there's nothing on the other one and there's nothing for that to interfere with.

So Based on this initial evaluation here, I Do believe this is a suitable replacement. so let's get this guy installed. It's going to go in the same way. It came out right through that hole there.

just kind of just shove it on in there. There we go. shaft coming in all the way back right there. Stay here.

I Forgot to remember to put some grease on that seal I Don't wanna I Don't want to forget that. It's good practice. You don't have to, but couldn't hurt this guy in the beginning. Seal insertion or not seal Axle Shaft shaft insertion.

There we go. Axle Shaft: Get in there. it's not going in. Aren't you going in? Okay, Impact Driver: I Know it's lined up so let's back out of here and get some more muscle behind it.

You need to get to a more manageable working height. Okay, so what I'm gonna try to do here since these axle shafts have a bit of a in play in their joint. like they'll slide back and forth and try to use the axle itself to Ram that thing in there we go I think I got it. Okay so now we just need to get this uh into the axle, back into the bearing and then get this knuckle back up here onto Stripe.

Come on up. They kind of fit at the same time. I've got to pick the unit up. Pry bar: You got to pick the unit up to get it to a line and then uh, I can get the bolts in simultaneously.

the axle shaft spines will go in. So here we go. I'm pulling up on the pry bar right down here. there's our bar.

We'll pull that up, slide the end of this axle into the knuckle slash bearing. Straighten that guy out now. I'm holding on to the uh, the pry bar with my leg here, and I'm just gonna get these guys lined up. Oh, come on now.

get in there. Okay, the Bolt's halfway in almost all the way in. there. we go.

Oh, you guys didn't see. it's nice up. Give that a push second. Bolt that one's in.

Okay, now this is the part that's gonna matter when it comes to that wheel alignment business. So what we will do here, we're gonna go with what we know. now. We know that this one can't move in and out.

So let's get that one bolted on right now. the bottom one. That one has a little bit of motion to it. See that? So what we need to do is line up the witness marks on the bolts and then, uh, that's how we know the position.

That's supposed to be in 21. So let's run these nuts down. Anyway, that's actually pretty close. It's like, right on with that bowl.

Look at that. That's uh, that's perfect. It's sitting exactly where it needs to. Okay, let's go ahead and run it down and lock it in.

We'll do the top one first and witness marks are still where they should be I don't see anything sticking out. Yep, Good, Yeah, okay. we're getting somewhere now, aren't we? Alrighty, Next up, it's tie rod time. You just flip that guy back down in there.

Oh, drop our castle nut on the floor because that's proper protocol. We must be tempting gravity at all times. Let's get that guy threaded on dude. Couple forward MK impact and I need to line up the hole for the cotter pin.

Which foreign? No, no, Right there. we're on it. right there. Good.

Okay. split pin coming in. Push it in that way so it looks pretty. Hold it down and around and then around and around.

That's very pretty. Hammer Everything's a hammer. all right. Washer coming in.

you go. nut coming in. Three clicks coming in. Now we've got a chisel for a punch rather.

that's going to slip into the grooves in the rotor to hold that rotor and lock it in. because now we're going with the torque wrench coming in. Really like the fifth part because it's gonna get kind of boring I guess. but a lot of people seem to think it doesn't happen.

so this one's for you. Also, actual clip. Okay, so we may now put a little basket on there. so I forget what it's actually called I call it the basket.

It's not really a basket. you know what I meant though. this one can go around in the front. Yeah, and this one around the side here.

stay. it was pretty. Now it's horrible there. Now we're good.

Okay, removing our punch. now we can toss the wheel back on. guy up. Slide that thing in right there.

like get in there. Where's my studs? They're misaligned Five lugs coming in. Now you remember there was two of these that were missing the cap, so it might just be me. It could just be a peep.

but I won't put these two that are missing the cap next to each other. They're gonna go in opposing positions. I Don't know why I feel the need to do that? Maybe it's like a balance thing or maybe I'm just weird, but I don't like to put the missing cap ones next to each other I don't know. It is what it is.

Anyway, let's get these marked down. Come here. That's the 19. they're 19.

we have the 18 on standby and the 19 again. Torque you later. All right. crash your bed, come down halfway down.

That's bad. Okay I Just saw the parts guy come in and I believe that they brought the tail light assembly for uh for this tail light. so it looks like we're gonna have some bonus feature action in this one. We're done with the axle, but let's move on to some electrical repair.

We have no light function back here and uh, that's kind of a problem because it's unlawful to not have any light functions Actually, before we pull it out, let's uh, let's prove that it does not work. I'm gonna hop into the cab and cooperate the lights and you guys can see that this left rear has no activity signal signal breaks on on Earth Alright, so as we saw, the left side is inoperative. So let's get our deck lid trunk thing open a little bit here and let's pull this unit out for inspection. These are very easy lights to replace.

They're held into place with these little push clip tab devices right here. these little pins. It's two-piece pin, kind of like a drywall anchor where when it goes in its hole, it's squeezed right here at the large and large part and then when you push it in, it'll press out on that and it'll lock the thing into position. These can be a real bear to remove sometimes if they're full of dirt and sand and whatnot, but these ones here appear to be no problem.

So pull this unit out and then it's just gonna slide out. There's a tab on the other side here that holds it in and then we've got our connector. It's a single connector going into. uh, not a module per se.

Let's get this thing unconnected here. I'll show you bear with me there. It's not a module, it's more like a bus bar. And within that bus, we have our little socket pods for the lights.

See that we've got our bulb and looks like this is a two circuit bulb and then the other is of a similar design. See that Now these right here. These things can also fail. You get burnt spots uh on the little connectors there or corrosion and it won't make contact with the bulb.

Additionally You can also get corrosion inside of the socket and you'll lose connection with the bulb. But what we can see on this one is our little unit has some melting action. See that right there? Yeah, that whole thing is melted. That's from a bad connection.

Bad connections are going to draw extra current. It's going to create heat or it's going to. Arc And that arcing will, uh, will fry the module around, fry the circuitry rather. And that's exactly what we see happen here.

All that broken away plastic. It's distorted here on the edge. The little connectors kind of melted away. So this unit is integral to the assembly.

so we had to order a replacement assembly. Okay, new unit coming in and believe it or not, O'reilly's actually have this thing in stock down the street. Before I put this in, we need to make sure that it has actual light bulbs inside of it. Sometimes they will come with a bulb and sometimes they don't and then other times I end up breaking the thing trying to get it apart just doesn't want to come out.

Mini pry bar. get behind it. I Could get in there with that big prying device that I had. Maybe this is actually glued in.

It shouldn't be there. We go. Yeah, yeah, it was. Look, there's some glue right there from when they built the thing.

Anyway, came out without damage and it does have light bulbs in it so that's good. It appears all we need to do now is plug this thing back into its connector. We'll back it up and then check for function and then, uh, this repair will be complete. Just like that on and we slide our tab this little tab right here in the side of the body.

We're gonna go ahead and slide that thing into that thing, kind of hinges over and then our holes should be lining up. Yep. so we got one little pish push pin clip push pin. It's a pish pin.

There we go. Okay, that one's on. that one's on. Let's go back.

keep this thing on and see if everything works. Climb all right. key on. where's that key I Cannot reach.

Fell out. Oh no, it fell. there it is. I Dropped it on the floor.

Hey, there's our oil pressure business. See that? does it work? Yes. Yay! we have oil pressure all right. Okay.

left signal Beautiful. Okay, let me go hit the brakes. You guys stay right here. Tell me if the brakes go off.

Okay, all right now. all right guys. I Think we're good to go on this one. What's enough for the day? Uh, I Do have to, uh, replace the transmission pan gasket on this and a filter I Might save that for Troy tomorrow morning.

I Don't have the part for that thing yet. So that being said, uh I have nothing more to offer in this particular video. So I will go ahead and close this one out right now. I'll do such things as always.

but if anything, each and every one of you guys watching this video I certainly hope you enjoyed this video. If you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below. Do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there and most importantly, have yourself's a fantastic day! See you guys later in the video end of axle end of Doge end of leaker in a light bulb in the transmission.