Everybody good day to you welcome back if this is your first time here just just welcome glad you're here. I'm gonna say what this is because i i'm subconsciously attracting these things to me seems like i get one every week. Same truck. This one's the z71 package probably got the 5'3 customer stayed the vehicle was in an accident last year.

And sometimes it dies when going into reverse not all the time. But sometimes and uh that uh they were told that it needs a new battery. So let's fire this thing up and see what's going on here. Oh.

Do it oh okay. All right had a low battery. What is that 110 535 miles. Let's try reverse nope.

Did not die in reverse. Well first things. First let's see what's up with this low battery business and uh. We're either gonna charge it and check for a drain or it's junk and then we're going to replace it and then check for a drain.

And then we'll sort out in the interim. What's going on with that stalling in reverse situation having been in an accident. I'd speculate. It's got a pinch wire or a bad ground or something.

But uh. We'll determine that momentarily parking the auto and powering down okay first things first let's recharge the battery. So we can get a good test on it we can't get an accurate test on a dead battery. All right these guys are always kind of awkward.

So that connector is far away there we go it scared me. 10 volts. That's not good. I'm charging.

Now let's see what we got for amps. It's only set for a 2 amp. Charge display. Oh look it's reconditioning.

It's not even charging. I'm not sure what it does while it's reconditioning. I think it's just charging. It a very very very slow trickle and it might be pulsing that trickle.

I i think that's what it's doing so i've got a feeling this battery is going to end up being junk. So while that thing is charging. I'm just going to pull away some of the obstructions that are between me and the removing of said battery that way when i need to replace it i'm already there you live there for now stalls in reverse. Okay.

Let's check our connections just make sure all this stuff is in good shape. It looks good okay well. Let's let this thing recharge for a while once this charge is complete. However long that takes an hour hour and a half or so i'll come back.

And i'll put a test on this battery make sure it's good or determine if it's junk if it's junk. We'll put one in there and then i will work on that stalling condition that they had mentioned so stay tuned. Because this is going to be a very good video now if we look closely around the driver door jamb. We will learn that the sticker is no longer here that's the vin placard that tells us tire size pressure.

Vin number build date. Etc. So uh that uh that does indicate the potential that this thing was in the body shop for a collision repair. Once yep look that sticker is not even filled out so they got a replacement sticker slapped it on there and then that was that so if we're gonna find some kind of wiring damage.

It's probably gonna be in this area on this side of the car speculating right now with the scan tool plugged in we see that this is a 2015 silvery radio four wheel drive does have the five three and again 110 000. Miles truck was running i i actually started the truck because that uh that charger was just taking its sweet time to even begin considering offering some amperage to this battery. So i figured i'd let the automator do that instead anyway. I digress.

I have located a service trailer brake system warning indicator also on the dash. So what we're going to do is we're just going to do a full code scan of all the modules in this vehicle and that's going to come back with every stored trouble code that this truck has and once we get those codes. We'll comb through everything and see if something is standing out to us left front audio output circuit open that means the speaker is not working according to this trouble code center front channel audio output circuit. So there's another maybe that speaker over there there is a communication.

Problem can bus communication. Symptom zero. Zero. That's a history code.

So at some point. It did not have modules talking to each other. And what's this other one a b 101 delta electronic control unit hardware general checksum failure. That's also a history code.

Actually all these are history. Let's just see if the speakers work that one works. It's also kind of crackly let's change. The station.

Yeah they all sound pretty bad. I don't know if that has anything to do with anything i'll just mental note that one powering down here's a nice example of what i think could be a misleading trouble code. So we've got this c0800 dtc stored in the abs module states control module power circuit voltage below threshold so it's pretty clear to us the module that we're talking about the abs module its voltage is too low. Now a lot of folks they'll go oh no this module doesn't work it must be a bad module.

When the reality is it's probably due to that bad battery low voltage problems in a car can set off all types of trouble codes and if you don't pay attention to the very most basic of items. Which is you know battery in the charging system. It can often lead somebody down a path to replace parts that are completely unnecessary just for fun. I want to go and use the what did everybody else do button.

And it shows top repairs for that dtc look at that replace the battery now that doesn't mean that that codes caused by the battery. But it's it's a high probability that battery voltage went low probably during cranking the modules were already awake at that time and the abs module said. Hey ecm. I don't have enough voltage here to run here's my p0800 moving on human interface machine has one trouble code universal serial.

Bus usb circuit. Two above threshold. So something is left open the usb circuit. I'm assuming it's one of these probably one of those guys there blown up views and we shall see two trouble codes in the hvac control module both history again also could be caused by low voltage.

From a dead battery. Yeah we got a stuck actuator. So. What's this one short to battery or open parking assist control module again control module circuit voltage below threshold history radio has another trouble code same thing low voltage radio controls same code same thing low voltage seat control module low voltage.

See control module is not communicating could have been because it had low voltage. Yep okay. So let's park this scan tool for a while and see if we can't start the charge with the actual charger on this powering down. What we're going to do is we're going to put a new and good battery in there or we're going to charge this known good battery.

If this one charges and it is found to be a good battery. Then i'm going to seek out a parasitic draw. If that's just a junk battery. Like i said earlier.

I'm going to put a new one in there and then i'm going to seek out a parasitic draw after that we will try to operate the vehicle and see if we cannot get it to stall in the conditions in which the customer had described to us if we can't we'll go back to the scan tool. We'll drive it around some we'll see if we have any trouble codes that start to pen and then we can go from there that will be our path moving forward you know real quick something i want to do i'm just going to go ahead. And again jump. The gun just a little bit.

We're going to clear out all the codes in all of the modules and uh. It's still running by the way i haven't shut it down yet so we have due to alternator power. Receive no low voltage in the system thus far anyway as i was saying. I'm gonna go ahead and clear out all these trouble codes.

And um. Seeing as how we had a couple actuator codes in that hvac module. I'm just gonna go ahead and run a sweep test with the scan tool on all of the blend door actuators in the dash. If any of them are faulty.

It'll go ahead and throw that trouble code back at us and we can either rule out or accept. It was low voltage. That had caused those and that's just going to give us more information. So we're going to scroll down here to hvac controls functional tests.

I don't want to illuminate the indicators. No we're in the wrong menu for some reason. There's hvac controls. And then there is an hvac menu.

You see right here. There's hvac and hvac controls. I i don't know why they happen to have two menus for the the same system. But uh.

But they do so yeah we are dual zone control so we're gonna select dual zone automatic temperature blending yes blah blah blah and functional tests again can i do all the doors at once. No here. We'll just do them all individually research door begin sweeping now let's switch to recirculate. I can hear the door switching.

This is interesting ambient air temp sensor negative 40 degrees. Engine. Coolant temp. Sensor.

Negative. 40 degrees. Lower left air duct temperature sensor negative 40. Degrees.

This is uh indicative of something being unplugged or my scan tool is lying to me. That's very odd ambient air temperature sensor that's the one outside anyway. Let's sweep this door back to the vent position. We're going to let it close again.

I hear air flow changing. So that actuator is functioning switch is complete back out. We will go to the next door left side temperature actuator. See what this one does hot begin switching to hot air.

Now. And i feel a temperature change. This one is working let's go on back to cold again. It's switching back to cold good that actuator is working right side temperature again.

I'm just going through all these kind of for fun. I just want to see if it happens to throw those trouble codes back at us. One more time and hot air yep cold air yep and i'm also listening to make sure i don't hear any popping or clicking from these actuators all right that's all three that have been run. I am satisfied let's go ahead and see if there's any trouble codes in this module stored from those sweeps.

That's a negative so at this time. I have verified that the hvac door actuators are all functioning like they're supposed to so those trouble codes that we saw again are not necessarily indicating that there's a faulty component. Here okay. We've had a five or ten minutes of run time this battery should have some charge to it after uh sitting and running for a.

While okay. That's better than 10 volts. So let's go ahead and power this on one more time begin charging. Now please don't recondition just give me the current and we are getting 4 amps.

5 amps. 6 amps. 7. Amps.

10 amps all right okay back on schedule. We'll come back when this is done the charge has been completed i tested it with a digital charger uh. It was a marginal battery. It didn't test too terrible.

I think. It was like 650 out of 752. Cranking amps something like that either way i've moved on i went ahead and disconnected the positive cable and i know this looks kind of rigged together. But it's totally functional got some vice grips on the positive end and then i've got leads attached to the cable itself and to the vice grips leads are running over to the meter meters switched over to amperage.

We're set for dc amps and we're looking for a figure of about 300 milliamps now we're seeing about 400 right here that's a little high. I'm gonna let this uh hang out for a minute and just make sure all the modules in this truck are asleep the scan tool is disconnected and i'm going to pull the key out and let this go to sleep. And we want to see this drop to 300 or lower. That's a little high.

I do think it's got some kind of a draw going on it's not much. But it is enough to bring down a battery uh overnight um. If not overnight definitely spend two days snow driving. So um let's uh.

Let's see if we can't hunt. This thing down after i verified everybody went to sleep. What i mean by that is not all modules shut down. When you take the key out and get out of the car so key removed.

I'm gonna go ahead. And tell it i'm getting out maybe. It thinks i got in all right now. I'm getting out and locking the doors.

Okay. I'm out of the car now look at here five amps four six four five so that tells us that there are modules that are still awake uh. I know that because i opened the door it keyed on the dash. It turned on security turned on the radio.

So once that stuff shuts down. We'll see those milliamps draw back down to a more acceptable level. Then i think what i'll do is i'll just start plucking fuses and uh once we see a milliamp drop with the appropriate fuse that'll tell us. Which circuit the draw is on and uh once we determine what circuit.

It is then we can test the components on that surface to see if they are the ones drawing down this battery so stand by let's give this a minute to settle down let everybody go to sleep well lookie here everybody went to bed 0008 milliamps amps yeah that's uh that's like nothing that's much uh than i would have expected so that means one of two things either it does not have a parasitic draw or it has a parasitic draw sometimes oh too much 16 amps. We're gonna go ahead and just turn those off right now my meter dislikes that see we're awake again. I'm just gonna keep putting it in and out of sleep every. Now and then just to see if i can't catch it with a uh an active draw those are the wrong keys hey.

Don't be dumb not firing on all cylinders today all right we're awake again did i see that flashing maybe we bolt up to 17 amps. That's because the flat headlights are on again turn off please okay. And yeah four and a half amps okay we're gonna leave you alone for a while you know that tester did test that battery okay. But what if it has like an internal short not a huge one but just enough to just draw it down overnight.

I'm i'm still not entirely convinced that that battery is good. I've seen this before not kidding spent hours before checking for parasitic. Draws and come to find out it was a battery to begin with because the parasitic draw is in the battery. There it is interrupting.

Me two amps down to two amps so we're not asleep. Yet everybody's off inside no lights. No instrument cluster. No radio.

Okay i'll be back in five again point nine amps okay. No pun intended. I think that 008 measurement was a fluke did it because this is around the appropriate level of uh draw during everybody being asleep and vehicle shutdown. We want to see between 300 and 500 tops and i mean that's that's pretty high 500 milliamps.

But i like 300 370 350. This is this is good with me. I'm i'm becoming less convinced that there is a parasitic draw after all back down to near zero. Again okay again two more hours have passed and we have no parasitic draw on this battery.

This is again reinforcing my belief that that battery is faulty and that's probably the cause for the bulk of the issues. We found here so what i'm going to do is we're going to put a new battery in that i'm going to write down the voltage after everything has gone to sleep and the vehicle is at rest and i will check voltage write it down and in the morning when i come in i'm going to recheck voltage. And we're going to see if that bolt has dropped any if we did not get any voltage shot with a known brand new good fully charged battery. We can then conclude with more confidence that there is no parasitic draw.

And it's just a junk battery. So that's i think that's gonna be my plan moving forward so that being said let's go get a battery and get that thing changed out even if it's just temporary it'll help us to gather more evidence in the situation. Okay again. I'm still coming up empty handed regarding.

A battery drain or some kind of a system draw on that uh silvery rado. So i'm gonna conduct one more overnight experiment and uh that's either gonna completely prove. Or disprove. The fact that this battery is bad.

Oh. And or doo doo doo and or there being a presence of a battery. Drain uh. What i'm going to do is i'm just going to disconnect this battery completely from the vehicle.

And i'm going to just jumper wire in another known good battery idea being when it sits overnight. If there is some kind of a drain that brings it down overnight. It will present itself with a known good new battery thus eliminating the other battery from the equation thus determining if there is or is not some kind of electrical fault so that's what we're going to do because i'm going home. And i need answers stay so that's our ground side black to black ground to ground.

Obviously. These uh jumper. Leads are not big enough to uh actually transfer any electrical power. So i can't try to start the car or do anything like that this is just to determine if a module is bringing down this battery or not now we're gonna go ahead and connect this other jumper to our main and we are going to connect that to positive that's not supposed to do that all right our alarm is done alarming.

That was weird. I've got the meter back out set over to voltage. Yet again and let's just check our baseline voltage of this battery looking like 1234 volts that's baseline voltage. No loads modules of sleep.

So we're going to keep that in mind. We will check this for a low voltage condition in the morning all righty. It's the next day. Now.

This is not the exact battery that goes to this truck. It's just a temporary one that i pulled from inventory got it connected to the truck. This battery is no longer uh in the in the. Equation and we left last.

Night i think it's 1234 volts of memory serves and we're going to go back and just check that this morning. It's actually about 9 30. So it's this morning plus. We're going to check that voltage and we're going to see if we had a battery drain.

Overnight that's negative 1246. Volts look at that i've ordered a new battery. So we do not need the vice grips anymore and i'm going to pull this old one out. We need to do a little bit of disassembly.

See this looks like it's easy to remove. And it wouldn't be a problem you just take this off and move that over there and you're good to go. But you'd be wrong looks can be deceiving see in order to get this out we need to get this cable detached and disconnected unclicked. Please come on come on out of there please got two connectors those need to go and now we can slide this assembly over here then we can start digging the battery out.

There is a hold down wedge on this side. Oh peanut seriously peanut. It's actually a really good one no seriously. I'm not kidding.

These are good. I actually ate it and just like that 50 000. Unsubs oops. No seriously does that like freak.

You guys out did. I just go full florida man on a peanut. Okay. The battery's free and again.

You would think it comes out you just you know lift it up and we come on out and then and now not the case. Unfortunately. This coolant bottle is also in the way we need to get this coolant bottle removed. But the bolt is down there way down.

There like all the way down. I was calling in the support of the wobblies because i do believe you can sneak in past this air box and remove the bolt. But you need a wobbly got it and there should be one more bolt or another like right down. Here somewhere.

There. It is well that was lucky all right coolant bottle. Now we can get the battery out kind of oh. Lucky me.

This one has a handle beautiful. This is good. And it's still a super. Tight squeeze tight like two tigers come on up.

Yeah. Oh okay waiting game neat parts. I have no battery yet. But it's on the way okay looking good we got a new battery.

Here. Let's uh nozzle it down into its home. There we go and is that the right one better be see hang on i think i screwed up 11 inches. And the old one the old one's 12 and a half inches.

What's up idiot. Why didn't i check that first me and my assumptions. That was a other than a well that was dumb all around we uh. We looked up the battery.

And then ordered the wrong one turns out the right one was on the shelf. And the right one for the record is a 94 rh7. I know it's the right one. Because it doesn't fit battery.

Gravity. A little wedge put you in kind of a tight squeeze. Oh. He almost caught me slipping.

Not today youtube. Not today. Nice and shiny click so so all right. That's good let's put the nut back in for the coolant bottle.

There's one right over here and the other one of course right over here you can't see i can't see. But i can feel it i think yeah. There she goes almost got it got the tip in incoming. Wobbly.

There. It is now we're cooking slippage premature. Slippage uh. Come on down.

There one more time there we go and we'll get our nut in the back. Real quick like what else am. I for getting here. Oh that little little brace guy.

We gotta get that in you know before i finish this off. I think i'm gonna do one more uh draw test on it just to check the current in the interest of being thorough of course click voltage. And we've got green lead to our positive green lead to our positive cable over here. There it is that's volts.

We want amps what are we doing we're totally wrong here we want to check our current draw. Dc amps three amps all right let's let it calm down and make sure we uh we settle back down where we're supposed to it's been about one minute. We're down to 600. And yeah 600 milliamps there we go that's what we're talking about look at that modules just went to sleep.

I'm gonna give this five more minutes just to make sure we stay asleep here. And then we'll put the bracing and everything back on then we can go out for a test drive and verify that uh stalling in reverse condition that they said they had all right we're down almost no current draw at this time. I'm i'm fairly certain that there is no parasitic draw on this truck. I think this problem solved.

And it was just a bad battery let's make this cable. Nice and shiny. We're getting connection process now clickage. Don't read the fumes.

That's why i stay up wind. Okay next up we have one cover that's tight as they're tight that i did uh recheck complete. Good here and we got our bar. A little stabilizer bar.

Click awesome complete let's go and hit the road and see what this thing does but we're not doing anything without keys restarting. The engine. It's a loud ding ding open and close the driver window. It has to relearn its stop positions for the glass.

All right we're good wonderful oh good the radio stations are still programmed. However the clock is off let's see if we can't adjust this bad boy it is 1109. I'm doing it wrong how do i adjust you i that's it must be in settings. I'm in the wrong spot exit.

I know this menu settings. That's the one i want that's it time and date set time. Blah blah blah. We're going to go back an hour.

Because that's what time it is 11 11. Make a wish everybody okay. That's good to go oh fun fact on gm trucks after a long battery disconnected period. Or even sometimes a short one the uh temperature gauge will default to 32 degrees.

Takes a little bit of drive time before they recalibrate. There is a bulletin on such things. But they will eventually recalibrate and then read the proper time temperature. So if you ever change your battery on this and you see that there's not a problem.

Especially. If you go to a shop. And they change a battery. Then you see that it's definitely not a problem.

So don't be a karen. If you're uh. If your indicator is incorrect moment of truth. Let's put it in reverse.

See what it does you ready okay it didn't stall. I didn't think that it would let's go clear all the trouble codes. If there are any team silvery radio. Okay stalling attempt number two that's a negative no stalling.

Let's go out for a ride backing up danger whoa. I'm just kidding totally had that we were good we're good the whole time all right let's go ride around for a little bit then we'll recheck the codes. We'll put it in reverse a few times see if it's gonna stall. If we don't get any of that i will uh.

I will then conclude that we're good here and this truck is complete and that all it needed was a battery. And i know i spent like an entire day diagnosing. A dead battery. I get that it was a classic case of the customer's story does not fall in line with what my tester told.

Me. And i've often found that although customers don't know exactly what's going on they don't lie to you when they're trying to explain to you what's going on if that makes any sense. So i had to give the customer story. The benefit of the doubt that the battery continued to die.

Overnight. Additionally. Somebody told them that it had a parasitic draw because they probably put a tester on that battery. And it tested good just like it did when i put a tester on there.

But the testing results were conflicting with what the car was actually doing. Which basically just put me in a position to back burner this truck. And just conduct a 24 hour experiment. So i concluded that the battery was the most likely cause for everything was described especially if i can't get this thing to stall while going in reverse.

That tesla is recording us. So i'm recording it back yeah fun fact these teslas have a 360 degree perimeter cameras they're recording everything all the time they're using those to build the matrix. That's how we program. The algorithm to control your mind whoa full tinfoil hat moment.

I i'm sorry guys. I was i was thinking about a fiction novel never mind you know that's like the third time this week. That uh that i had a tinfoil hat on randomly. It must be because they turned on that cern particle collider thing and they're ripping a hole through the fabric of society and humanity and existence and gravity etc.

Etc. By the way um. I know i mentioned earlier in this video that this car was uh in an impact. It was run into on the driver's side and i was suspicious of damaged wiring that probably could have or possibly could have caused that uh stalling condition while going in reverse um.

While you guys weren't looking. I crawled around under this with the with some inspection lights and mirrors. And i went over the wiring harness on this side. All the ground points.

And all the point and all the points. Where it wraps over the frame and around cross members and whatnot. I did a very thorough inspection on all the wiring and found no defects. So i don't believe that any of that was damaged during the collision.

I mean i could be wrong. There could be uh like a freight or a shorting wire somewhere or it could be anything and i just didn't find it yet but uh with all this other stuff that was kind of in the way first. I had to go that direction that being said. I do think this thing is pretty good.

I hope i get to catch this red light throw. It reverse and scare. This mustang behind us. Yeah.

Let's see let's see if i got a minute to do this i don't know now now we're going i'm not going to be that guy that would be rude putting my own personal agenda before the convenience of others subaru. It's a slow ride subaru they're coming to my shop. A bit needs transmission. Okay so although we did not do much reverse action on that test drive.

We did achieve something and that was uh we have reached optimal operating temperature see when we first started the truck we put it in reverse a couple times. No stalling and that was cold start conditions. Now. Everything is up to temp things have expanded modules are warm.

Everything is stabilized like it normally would be after an afternoon drive. So we're going to try to recreate the conditions with a warm vehicle it didn't be that hard put in reverse. No stalling. Let's do a restart real quick no stalling.

Let's check the codes real fast like and i think we can uh bring this one to conclusion. I don't anticipate to find any trouble codes in here so while we're looking. I'm just going to go ahead and take this opportunity right now to thank you for watching this video as always i hope you enjoyed this video. If you did not enjoy this video.

I don't care so again and as always thank you for watching. And most importantly don't forget to have yourselves a great day. See you guys later detecting. Still detecting more detecting no codes.

Here or lack. Almost there done all right no codes. Present detected. 20 systems nada this job is complete.

I'm happy with this end of transmission error error. Big error. I'm gonna do this i just cracked. The davinci code.

Wow. Just gonna save that note. Oh. I can't go past.

A thousand characters. It will delete some twos there we go save inspection task. There we go that's our inspection task save. It's actually going in somebody's work order.

What oh uh it requires immediate attention. There we go now save three all right. That's that's in we're saved legit on the work order that's fun.