Click here we go there it's better than nothing. Hello everybody welcome back to to this 2005 chevrolet express 3500 that's the one ton van in the last on this particular vehicle. We went inside and replaced severely leaking valve cover gaskets while we were here. I threw a set of plugs and wires in it we located a couple broken exhaust manifold bolts.

But our guy did not want to replace those or repair them due to cost at this time. So that's something we can tackle later. We were on hold for a fan clutch that i'm trying to replace that we just cannot seem to find the right part for we've had three or four wrong deliveries. So that's a struggle once i get that i can get this van racked up in the air and uh.

We're gonna move down below and pull the oil pan off because there is a severe leak down there so stay tuned. This is gonna be a very good video. There we go these latches are always a bear. There you believe it these things are still running on uh vacuum for the hvac controls everything else in the world has electronic.

But the uh they stuck the vacuum for these vans. That's kind of cool uh. Oh. My seal is not sealing that will cause engine.

Compartment gases to escape into the cabin. We don't want that we have this behemoth set up on the lift. It's racked up nice the lift arms are down in the locks. Because this thing is huge uh.

The back of it is empty uh including shelves um. If there was any weight in the back. I would put a vertical stand under the bumper to support it so it doesn't rock around my fear. Would be if it gets momentum for any reason.

The wind comes through it could pull the bolts out and knock this over and bring the roof down. And kill me that would be bad. Because one of my goals is to not die at work. It's kind of my thing so anyway revisiting this oil down here you can see it's a lot cleaner on the side of the block.

Where we gave it some spray. There's a little bit more up here to clean off. But what we're going to do next is pull off this inspection cover so we can see the back we're gonna pop this oil pan out of here that should be fairly easy because there's nothing in the way and we're gonna also replace the gasket for these oil cooler lines that run up to the radiator. But first things first we're not doing anything until this oil in this filter.

I removed you know a lot of times when i pull these pans down. I don't remove this filter until i've already got the unit down just so i don't have drippy oil. But uh you guys always tell me the wrong way so i'm going to try it your way this time. And we're going to see which way i like best it's my shield.

See how i didn't get splashed. You know i gotta watch this thing drip. This whole time so i don't i don't know if i like that real quick. While we're here.

Let's take another note of all this silicone up here in that corner. I'm wondering if uh something's broken like the actual pan. That shouldn't be there so uh. We'll we're gonna address that when we get this pan out of here.

Now this being a 2005 model band and being the one ton this has the 4l80 trans. Which is the basically electronic version of the th 400 to my understanding uh the 400 was before my time. But i understand it's pretty much the same thing anyway uh. My point is is this particular transmission has an inspection cover the fell housing is like two pieces.

There's one piece on the top. Which is just part of the case and then it's got this cover down. Here. Let's go ahead and pull this cover off just so we can take a peek underneath.

There sideways impacts nice pull this drain plug too and give that time to drain. Three. You can't do this. Oh.

All right let's uh. Let's take a peek at that rear main and see if it's leaking or not if i can get you guys in here. Oh. There's our seal right through that hole looks pretty good.

The only oil that i see is on top of the oil pan. Which is that little ridge right. There at the bottom of that hole now. It's been collecting in there probably from the leak up top of the valve cover.

Because you can look here. A bunch of oil sitting in the bottom of the pan. That's why someone thought it had a uh rear seal because it was coming out for that little relief right there in front of the pan. But that's not a problem.

So let's proceed and go ahead and pull this uh oil pan out of here. We're going to pull these long bolts out first uh. I fear these because they often get over tightened and they strip. You don't know it until you go back in.

I think these are all right the reason for my skepticism is that the last one of these i did i had to go back and fix the threads these look okay because they were over torqued and i'm concerned about this one because i do see some bolt marks or some tool marks on the bolts and of course there's the silicone up there so i wouldn't put a anything past this one. And i also don't know why all that oil came out it was probably just pooled up in the little slot. There this one looks good too you're coming with me. See what happens here.

Nothing. What is this oh cell comes in the way. Hey look oil came out. I guess.

It wasn't very sealed after all my real fear is this little tab corner is broken off and someone decided that that was the way to fix. It that's that's my only real concern or or someone saw it was leaking oil. There and they just threw a bunch of that up to uh try to seal it on the outside it doesn't work stuff from the inside. All right.

That's not broken that's good okay well that's nice gravity next that's right moving forward next. Think of it like a neutral drop for an electric ratchet all right moving around to the passenger side and let's just go ahead and speed this up just because it's a few bolts. I don't even have to take the starter out on this one all righty one more one more bowl. I got the couple in the front already when you guys weren't looking.

This is the last one i think and then the pan is coming out. I also didn't mention we're going to replace the oil strainer pickup tube seal there's an o ring seal. They they like to flatten out and then they leak there's oh there's that bolt right here again all right are you gonna come nicely. No pry bar.

More pry bar beverage is our friend. When we don't overdo. It all right slide that old drain forward now we can come on out right through here. There we go yeah.

Somebody was already in here. Once this is not the original gasket and here's why it leaked. I'll show you right here why it leaked. We just parked that right there so we can see thanks.

All right let's come forward see right here look at right. There you see where the block meets the uh. The backing plate there's no ceiling. None here on uh that juncture right there and the front two corners.

Also do not have any sealant and there's no sealant on the gasket. No sealants on the gasket here yeah we're supposed to put a little dime sized dab of sealant there to prevent leakage at the seams and uh that did not happen in this last go around so uh wasted effort uh and to make matters worse. They didn't even clean out the pan look at that that is terrible crawl. So bad all right let's take this thing get the rest of the oil out of it take it over the parts washer and clean this uh while we're washing this i'll go ahead and pull out this dipstick tube over here and then we can wash that because this is also pretty crusty.

Then we can change the o ring. Here let's just rinse. This oil out before we put this into the parts washer nasty. This one's particularly nasty.

I'm gonna take the baffle out nasty a lot of sludge in there look at that that's nasty poor engine. Lived a rough life all right nasty pan faster. So all right i think that's about as good. We're gonna get here.

Let's wipe it down let's spray it down let it dry and we'll prep. The block for the install super shiny. All right this is looking good. I've got the baffle back in that one didn't clean up as well.

But i think i got almost all the build up out of there the outside's nice and shiny. This is ready to go back in momentarily. I've already got the pickup tube removed and we need to clean that next that's an aft and throw a new o ring on there all right let's get this o ring out of here. See how it's flat.

It's flattened right there. And it's kind of pitted looking too and it tore. This is a known failure point. That's why we got a new one okay moving back down below.

We've got the pickup tube on we saw the new o ring. I just need to wipe down this oil get our silicone sealant on each corner. And then we can put the pan back up. So uh let's get this wiping action.

Done. I'm getting oil drips on my face. And i can't like that i'll give it a wipe and then a spray and then another wipe. It's really too bad.

They forgot that part otherwise this uh never ever would have happened well that's the way of it there we go okay. Where's my spray. Believe it or not this is somewhat time sensitive you see inside of the engine that oil is still wicking its way down and out. And if i linger too long.

The oil will then re contaminate my ceiling surface here. I'll have to do it again that would be bad all right looking good let's get some sealant in the appropriate areas right there i know that's larger than a dime size. But it'll be okay a little bit more right now one dab up here on the front. There we go and one more over there now we're cooking and just to make sure i'll put a very small amount on the gasket itself.

There we go there are three bolts in this gasket holding it in that will uh assure proper alignment. When we go to put it up into place let's get to it not out of the woods. Yet. We've got to get this trans cover back on bolt that down to the trans and then come back and make sure that it's got the proper spacing between the oil pan and this cover if it's uh.

The spacing isn't right we'll have to take some of the pan bolts loose and then tighten these bolts here to draw the pan back so it's flush with this cover so it does take some slight a bit of alignment. But uh shouldn't be too difficult to achieve okay go back in we go got her now come on noodle arm setting in all right. Two bolts in let's get the rest of these started one more on this side. There we go now.

I didn't see that pan flex a little bit. So i am going to go back and re torque. I'm going to loosen them. And then re tighten all these bolts around this uh perimeter and final click all right loosened all of them went around drew it back to the rear like it's supposed to be and then i went back around and torqued them all again leakage on that one last one right over here.

There you are okay. I'll be right back with an oil filter after i torque wrench these that was not shiny filter clip. Okay looking pretty good down here i uh gave everything a good bit of spray to clean. It off got all the bolts tight torqued re torqued and re tightened and re cleaned and everything else uh pretty clean.

Looking um. I'll get the rest of this stuff with the garden hose later on still waiting on that uh fan clutch. Still waiting on the fan clutch. I don't know uh.

We got one from the dealer wrong we got another one from another dealer wrong so i i don't know what the deal is but that's all that we're waiting on right now all right big van come down since i have time that means. I can let that out silicone set up before i put oil in it which is good oh you know what guys i forgot something we still need to check out the o2 sensor on this fan. Still waiting on that fan clutch again so uh. I've got time.

I really wish i had thought of this when i had the doghouse out silly me doing things the hard way okay jokes. Let's go back down below. We're on the passenger side and we're looking for the bank. 2.

Upstream. Oxygen sensor now what i mean by upstream is in relation to the catalytic converter. The o2 sensor in front of that is upstream the sensor behind that is downstream for example here is our downstream. Sensor and then up front in front of the cat near the manifold is the upstream sensor and there's another one over here on the other side.

This is bank. Two this is our sensor in question. Here's the connector let's go ahead and pull that guy out of there real quick come on out rare. All right.

We're looking for pins c. And d. And according to the diagram c. And d are the two on the side of the connector alignment tab.

Which is that pin in that pin we need to connect a meter to those two pins set the meter to voltage. And then go keyed on and we want to see positive and ground. There that's for our heater circuit. If it turns out we have a hot in the ground.

We'll go ahead and put a load on that key it on again and if it carry a load. Then we know that the circuit and the ecm is functioning properly. We can then conclude that the sensor itself is faulty and should be replaced now uh. I do have a new one here we preemptively went ahead and ordered one because that's most likely the cause.

But i want to go ahead and prove it before i put a sensor in all right so. According to my diagram. I have pins c. And d.

Probe with alligator clips. Those are connected to the meter. Uh. Positive is yellow negative is green and with our key on we're at 12 volts and i have polarity switch.

But uh you get the picture. We're 12 volts right here so we do have battery voltage uh on the heater circuit for the so2 sensor let's just plug a load in real quick and make sure it can carry a load and that will confirm that the sensor has a bad heating element and needs to be replaced. Okay. I've got a little light bulb set up here that's connected straight back up to our connector.

I'm gonna go ahead and make this connection right here we're gonna see what our light bulb does it's odd. It's pulsing here let's go ahead and set this down over here and let's try this engine running and see what happens you stay right there. Okay engine. Running.

We are still pull out i'm not quite so certain if that is supposed to pulse. I usually don't test light piece um. I have an idea since i have a new sensor here. I'm going to go ahead and plug in that new sensor and connect that new one and then we're going to go back to the scan tool and review.

Scan tool data uh. What we have confirmed here is that this circuit is capable of carrying current because it did carry enough current to power this light bulb. Okay here's our new o2 sensor same connector looks good. We're just going to plug this guy in real.

Quick. Yeah. Let's just confirm or deny this right now stopping the engine scan tool powering on let's go into sensor data again we're going to go ahead and pull up the amp draw for the heated oxygen sensors. Now remember we're not looking at the the sensing element.

We're looking at the heater element. And we're going down. Here to bank two sensor. One that was the affected one and if we recall when we previously viewed this data earlier during inspection.

These are the heater pins. They're not the actual air fuel ratio monitoring section of the sensor. This is for the heater element and we can see that the amp draw on this particular sensor. Is.

012 amps we had like 012 or. 013 amps right here and we're now. At 06. Amps.

064. 060. So that confirms that the heater element is now operating as it's supposed to therefore. I do conclude that the faulty sensor has a bad heater element.

The sensor replacement is now necessary so let's go spin that new sensor in real quick and uh. We're still waiting on a fan clutch for this that's my my only hang up still waiting i remember when i started this car. I was talking about being on the non plan plan and it seems like this entire operation has just gone against the grain here like i even changed. The plan while i was narrating my current plan can't even make that kind of stuff up so anyway.

Our o2 is up high. I need to finagle that thing out of here light. So it's actually a little warm in there so i'm not going to use wrenches. I'm actually going to use a o2 sensor tool.

Here see sensors done trying to do this long range. You guys see what i'm up to slippage screw that up didn't i let's try it how hot let's try it from this side. I might just have to wait until the school's down. I'm literally over here playing with fire an idea.

I have i think i like to do dangerous things. Very carefully incoming reverse clickage yeah. See i got it this part's really going to make a cringe this sensor body is actually not that hot this is tolerable. I wouldn't advise this oh.

I don't think i have nerve endings left in my mangies car work and restaurant work has left me numb in more ways than one all right we're nearly there nearly put that we're just gonna reverse. What i just did yeah like a pre click look at that yeah. This was much better than waiting i have to admit. Though if the transmission was warm um.

This would never happen like this because my hand is right against the side of the case need to reposition here there we go and leakage and of course. We shall not forget to connect the connector silent click how about that one and let's get our little blue guy back in our little little safety tab thingy right here come on i can't i can't even get the tip in what am i what am i doing i'm gonna get this thing in there it's this is gonna happen positive clickage all right we're good here cool let's get out from under here. You believe it it is time it is the hour. This is the last hour.

We finally got a fan clutch that uh meets dimensional specifications and does not feel like cheap garbage. Oh yeah. That's nice nice toy and like i said since we are down to the last hour. I must make haste and get this thing done so let's bolt our fan back on and we'll go spin this back onto the water pump and i can throw the shrouding and everything back on oh and the uh dipstick tubes and all that plumbing.

I put that stuff back on too okay to the water pump. We go all right now the front of the snout on this water pump is threaded. So all i've got to do is line the fan up and thread it back on once it's tightened all the way down. I'll give it a quick tap with the impact and that will lock it down there we go insert impact driver.

I'm just placing the tip of this and it's a blunt rounded tip on one of the hexes on the clutch just to tighten it up there we go easy peasy let's back up and reset and get our shrouds and everything put back together. This isn't difficult it just has to be maneuvered carefully just wiggle it on in i'm caught on an ac line. Hang on there we go boom. Nice cool all right.

Oh yeah. A couple more bolts on the side of the shroud. That's what's next. There's one.

I'm just going to get them started and then i'll run them down with a power tool tight squeeze down there three more shroud bolts to go click. There's one you can't see the other one found it no moss. Come here. Okay.

I need to maneuver. These dipstick tubes back together. The oil tube's got to go around that wiring harness and then i got to plug it into the valve cover. It's always a bear.

This is not my favorite part of this operation. I temporarily put this tube back in position. Just so uh. I could start the truck earlier to check out those o2 sensors.

But now that that is done i have to undo what i did oh there we go and now we're getting somewhere. Oh. I don't know if i mentioned it. But i have already managed to replace that hose that uh split earlier when i went to take it apart.

I may have said that i may not have a lot of back and forth action on this truck. The whole job is built out of flashlight gravity. That was a good one it never touched the ground the magnet actually caught it which i think that was kind of cool anyway. The tube is now plugged back into the valve cover let's get in there and secure.

This mount easier said than done who am. I kidding everything is easier said than done even stupid phone. Well. I can't turn that by my hand.

Anymore ratchet time come on come on come on come on come on oh. Here we go click now let's get this little nut. Right here love the wobbly and then we need to put the trans dipstick. Oh.

That's engine oil never mind we need to bolt the engine oil dipstick to the engine fill tube. There was a run of these i remember at the dealership. Where these brackets would break off and then bolt gravity all right let's try that again thread. There you just gotta tell it what to do nice.

Let's back up again put our coolant reservoir on so then oh. This is so nice. We are in the home stretch dipsticks are going back. I need to install the intake tubing and everything and the air filter assembly and while we're here.

I can check the oil level. I haven't done that yet after refilling after we put the oil pan on see what we get i put. In six quarts and we're at the top right on the line. Okay air filter assembly is going in that clicks into the throttle body down there there's a band clamp that i need to install we must not forget the mass airflow sensor and two bolts plus that little little clamp clamp click all right let's restart this thing head back to the scan tool and just do one final check over before.

We uh go out our test drive and release this car. Let's hear our fan in action. Yeah. That's better airflow okay.

It's a little warm in here. There we go what no scan total communication nonsense. All right let's go into our codes. Man.

Here. Just make sure we don't have a any codes that reset. While i had stuff unplugged maybe. I do maybe i don't negative.

So we're gonna go on in and just recheck our data real quick no i don't want to clear. I can't read and speak at the same time weird data display sensor data that's the one oxygen sensors. So we're not concerned about their voltage. That's a separate side of the circuit.

What we are concerned about is amp. Draw on bank. 2 sensor. 1.

Which is bank two sensor. One heater current amp. Draw half of an amp next. One up point five eight amps point.

Six next one up point five six and the downstream point five eight. So now all these amperages are roughly in line that solves the heated oxygen sensor heater circuit high codes all right real quick test drive just to verify we don't have any misfires while the vehicle is under load. And then uh and we're good to go here parking brake release backing up safety and for you super safety sally's three honks for backing up defective click here we go. It's better than nothing.

Oh yeah. I forgot to tell you we're not going to do anything with the front end parts uh or the steering wheel angle issue with this one all right guys. I think we're good i'm gonna go ahead and close this one out right now uh for two reasons uh. One of which it is late in the day.

And i've got a couple other things to button up before i get out of here. And i would like to do that right now and second reason. We're about to get a whole lot of wind noise. Because this does not have power windows.

And i'm not reaching all the way over there to crank the window up so uh again and as always like thank you for watching my video hope you enjoyed this video. If you did enjoy this video. You know the drill let me know about that by tapping tapping that like button down below. So again.

And as always thank you for watching. And most importantly don't forget to have yourselves a great day.