All right folks, we got a 14. Toyota that's the Prius Do I have your favorite car this morning? Yeah and go pick up some chicks, man. Thanks! A little Donger down here. We'll get our Auto plugged in today.

We're using the MS 906 Pro because we're professional. Yes, Oh, we just stalled. Let's see. I'll let this thing get all hooked up.

We'll scan it, we'll see they probably have two different issues or at least that's what I told the lady because um, usually the you know ABS traction light doesn't have anything to do with you know, the mechanical brakes as far as noise breaks grinding. So Sometimes When people's lights come on. They get what I call hypersensitive ABS light comes on all of a sudden. You know we hear all these things.

so keep that in mind. I'll let this thing get loaded. We'll see if it's having an issue with a wheel speed sensor or something perhaps foreign object attached to the tip of left rear speed sensor. That's pretty specific fella.

Uh, it's a left rear speed sensor circuit. So let's just go back into some live data here. Go into some live data now. Sometimes this could be results of a grinding in the back which was grinding like tons of metal shavings we'll say.

And they got all over the speed sensor and let me I'm just going to graph all these days. Slow this baby down. All right. All right.

We got our Drive do we says it is I've hit too many buttons here. What a jerk. Yeah, except they can see the ABS brake traction. We're moving a little bit.

don't see anything happening there in the left rear, so let's take a little tour around town. Anything coming, anything negative, doesn't look like we've got any action from the left rear standby, so that's going on there. Let's use some breakage. Definitely.

Here's some grinding. I Hope it's metal to metal grinding or not, but definitely some grinding. We'll probably just peel all four wheels off unless some of the brakes are obviously new. We got some grainage.

Well, we're part of the big road to go around the block and back to the shop. It sounds like in the left rear mostly. I Definitely got some cheddar going on. Foreign.

foreign how the wheels are off. Hey, look, see around here. It seems that the Priuses tend to right off the brakes. everything seizes up in them with the regenerative braking stuff.

They just don't get used a lot and then add a little salt to the mix. And all the rest is history. Usually sort of peers that there's lots of brake pad here. Let's see if they're seized up.

That one's not seized up, slightly seized, not terrible. Looks like there must be a rust Ridge inside that rotor. Pretty fair amount of rust build up there. Yeah, it's quite good, not terrible.

Pins are pretty stiff. Yeah, they're pretty stiff. It could at the very least use a brake service, you know. get the pins freed up, get the pads freed up, take the hardware off, you know, sandblasting and everything kind of moving free again.

Uh, the pads themselves are I would say well we could measure them, but they're probably at least you know 60 to 70 percent left. See if we have any rust jacking because that's always a dilemma. and there is. It's just starting to peel the edges of the pads back here.

let me see if I can give you a good look at that and this, according to the comment section, seems to be quite Regional which stands to reason because you know a lot of the folks down itself don't get the rust, but you can see here on the edge of the pad you see how I can stick the tip in there over a little pry. driver trying to find my words this morning I'm still a little tired, but what happens is as we demonstrated in one of our last videos is you start to get pad separation. so the rust builds up behind the friction material and behind the backing plate and then eventually it pushes the whole friction Material off so you can see with very little effort you know you can start lifting up that friction material and then what happens is the whole piece of friction material falls off the backing plates. a super common thing here in the Northeast we call it rust jacking whether that's a typical or uh, the official name or not.

I Don't know. Uh, there are a few pad manufacturers that that claim they make a backing plate that prevents that. Unfortunately, there's some of the squealous breaks on the planet. I Won't tell you who does it.

Um, but it's kind of ironic with their name. So anyhow, obviously I would recommend a customer you know to do the front brakes simply based on you know rust jacking because this is going to get you. make sure our caliper goes back and it felt like it was so now it piston so they're not Rusty I Like it compressed beautifully so stick that there. We're going to caliper hook so you guys don't freak out.

mostly just want to check the caliper on it. sorry the stone fell out of there. You guys hear that? We mostly want to check this side. just see if the caliper is intact.

it's getting front brakes. You know? obviously you're doing both sides. Caliper seems nice. I Guess we'll pushing it all the way.

It seems nice and free. They're quite stiff on this side. Also, this pad over here is rust jacking real bad. Let me show you.

So there you go. Now you can see it. so it's that separation right there. Whoa.

Hang on there fella hug. But the pad is quite loose off the backing plate. See what? I'm saying. it's not supposed to be like that fella pads off here.

I'm 98 certain this guy's gonna fix it. He usually has us to do with his work when necessary. I Just wanted to show you if this is just, uh, you know Joe Schmo Customer I didn't know I wouldn't have stuck a screwdriver in there prove it to you in case we got denied on the repairs. but you know you guys can see old Jack got in there oh Mr Miha and you can see the rust filled up and where the friction material was adhered to it.

but I guess that's it. Fella peel our bracket off over right here. Ah see this this pin here. This appears to have a tear in it.

see wiggle that out a little bit. Oh, it's uh, so that PIN that pin boot has a rip in it so that would also need to be replaced because you don't want rusting junk getting in these babies. So I'll see about getting a pin boot kit. Too foreign.

Oh, there's nothing ground metal to metal in the back that I could see just looking through the wheels here. I Mean the brake rotors are solid rust. we're just going to take obviously the rears. it's getting brakes I'm going to take looks like maybe that might be 14 mil too.

We're going to pull the brackets right off and then we'll check the pan. We don't care if they're seized up or anything right at this point. I Guess see if we can get these brackets off. They're 14 mil also.

at least I Thought they were 14 mil plus a little rust. Well, my eyes are deceiving me. Come on baby. Yep, there are 14 mil, but they're pretty crusty.

Let's get the socket work down there. I'm gonna try to get it on all the way because if you start pulling and then it strips ahead, then you're in trouble. in your big trouble. Dude, it's tiny little suckers that hold those caliper brackets on.

maybe a 10 millimeter. Bolt There's those two over there. Yeah, there's the inside. there's the Outside Pretty Crusty I Hope not really.

seized up there. too terrible. Anyways, I think this thing's low mileage 70 some thousand miles on it. so I'm sure it sits a lot.

Well, like I Didn't want to take brake pads off apparently here. the hardware is kind of jammed up here. There we go. So there's our pad.

Still, you know, fair amount of pad on the back. let's see old Jack hasn't gotten after these babies. A little bit of unevenness in the wear, but not too terrible. A little hard right here.

Pins move. Boots aren't ripped. We just need to check our brake caliper. These are screwys.

Before we push that in I Am going to take a brush I Don't know what the heck's on it. It's got my little screwdriver here. Feels like something other than grease. It almost feels looks like silicone.

Maybe some of that brake fan ice wheel stuff where we did the last brake job on it and let's get that cleaned off and then we'll see if that turns in there. Are you happy now? apparently? I Forgot the brake clean dress in a couple videos so some people got a little pissed off about it so they were gonna quit. Beautiful! I'll grab our caliper Windy Uppie tool, it's the four. Pronger Get it started in there.

Make sure when you're doing this. if you see your boots start twisting, you got kind of. You gotta calm down dude. Spray a little brake clean on it.

that usually makes it slippery. If it's still acting like it wants to light up, you'll have to stick a pick gently underneath it. don't Jam The boot maybe spray a little silicone spray there and then start winding your back. Usually usually once you crack it Loose it spins in relatively well without binding up there.

As far as the boots concerned, looks like the Pistons going in Okie Dokie Foreign s had a tab on the back of them, but we're gonna line it up just in case. Put the slot at the very bottom. There's actually two slots there. we go just in case the back of the ear has a little titty on it that needs to line up with I Don't believe these do, but just good practice to make sure that's sitting in there like that.

All right. You can hear crap inside that bearing. so I couldn't hear anything with tires on it originally spinning it because the brakes were so noisy. but these Toyotas use a cage on the back side of the bearing.

you see the bearings are super Rusty and a lot of times rust and junk inside that cage breaks apart and that's what gets jammed up on the speed sensor so you can hear this one that sounds like it's all on the back side there. but this isn't This is the wheel that was working so same story on the driver's side. just rust, lots of rust, piston pushed in. fine extra noisy bearing over here.

As far as crap getting in the back there, this is the side we're having a problem with. Might be the foreign material on the tip so to speak. However, on these cars and Toyotas in general I've seen problems with these electrical connectors in the back getting all crappy. Let's have a gander.

you know, me and my big nose. I Can usually smell a broken wire I Just gotta figure out how to get the connector. I'm done here I Thought these were the connectors I've seen break before, but perhaps not. Let's open that up I thought it was these.

Toyotas I've done some of where they break right here at the connector I mean like at the last pinch every last quarter inch usually I thought I'd seen it. Okay, so that's just a protective oh you guys can't see crap? That's good, but we need to unplug it anyway. so let's get it unplugged. perhaps.

Maybe let me get another screwdriver up here, see if I can't hit the release tab on it and then there's that. Now we can have a little up here inside here, which that looks good like I say it is noisy so there's definitely something inside that tone ring making noise. The female half of the connector looks good. Let's give a little tug on these wires here now.

Maybe you guys can see I take the glove off like I say I've seen it on these Toyotas that suckers will rot out right underneath the weather packing. It's really bizarre, but I ran across it a couple times so I just wanted to give a little pull. Nothing too excessive. I mean it's like 24 gauge wire here.

It's pretty tiny stuff. that one feels good. usually if they're broke, but they'll just pop right out. That one feels good so they feel they feel good.

I guess when that goes all together, you cannot see the release tab. So anyhow, I'm gonna put this back together and then we need to find out if this bearing is junk as far as the ABS goes. and I'll show you a quick, quick and dirty way to do that without. You know a scope or checking voltages or anything like that.

It's super simple. We'll just jump this side to that side, spin that wheel if it reads up on the scan tool then we know the wiring is good and the bearings junk case you're wondering. that's how this sits inside of. try to do this one.

Keep my hands out of your way. So the connector here wire goes up on top and then you thread the wires down to there the connector sits in here. The release tab is right there trying to do it where you guys can see it here. But come on baby.

get that around like that. Here we go and the whole thing will click back together. Like I said there, your release tab is is right underneath it to get it. You know, while it's in the vehicle, you just got to get a pocket screwdriver.

Flick these tabs loose and that'll come apart on you. So anywho, for what it's worth, that's that's that fellas. Actually I Think the other side's noisier. Ran a jump away from this connector runs down there under the car.

you can see it Loops under there that comes all the way around and I just plugged it back. sorry about that. Plug it in the back of this wheel. bearing keys on.

so scan tool here. Technically when we turn this wheel, see yep we should have speed signal on the left side, which we do. So I'm turning it all Herky jerky. but I guess the point being that that cruise as I crank this that the wiring is good all the way up to the car.

We didn't have to have any kind of fancy tools and pull our jumpers and and that's it. So you got to be careful though. active wheel speed sensors can be quite difficult to diagnose. Uh, you know, with a scope scoping a good active wheel speed sensor piece of cake? Uh, they're super easy.

Toyota is not a great example because Toyota has a very logical practical setup where it doesn't disable that circuit when there's a fault. Now, when you're working on a lot of the domestics cough cough GM Chrysler They will typically kill that entire circuit when you set a code and then when you clear the code, the circuit doesn't come back immediately. You have to key off for a certain amount of time. So I find that this is the easiest way.

Excuse me? The easiest way to not get let astray down the rabbit hole of I Need a new ABS module because I don't have my 11 volts back here like I say Toyota's pretty good. if it doesn't work, everything's here stays alive. But active wheel speed sensors are are difficult to diagnose on. Some makes I bypass all the rigmarole by simply doing this.

If I have one that works, just bypass it. Clear the code. Wait, you know two three minutes, turn the key back on. reread the code that should read for the opposite side.

Now you know, spin your wheel and see if it works, but definitely understand some of the logic and the algorithm behind some of them if you're having a hard time. these work on an extremely low amount of current like I don't know where they are. they're 20 or 30 milliamps of variation that they see. so when you're using your scope usually got AC couple it and then you know really zoom in on the on the waveform to see it.

so that's that needs a bearing. The AES Wave Heat Test Kit is my go-to kit for these connectors. of course. I've added a bunch of other stuff to it also.

and uh, there. It's a super super great bit of Kit I Don't share it with anybody if you have it because you share with your buddies will destroy it. or at least that's like you do share it with them. Make sure they don't destroy It Go Jamming these connectors on some of these are very tiny and quite fragile.

so you know be cautious if you're sending you know high voltage, down high current rather. Last but not least, I Want to make sure that our parking brake works here. You guys see the Piston popping in and out I checked that side over there. That side works good.

Uh, the only other thing I see is the two rear brake lines. Flex hoses are about a puddle pump from popping. They're about as big around as my thumb. It's super.

Rusty So I'm going to suggest that they do both those real I Don't want to touch it because it's gonna break but both those two short sections of brake line pads rotors. I Would definitely recommend doing both bearings just on the account of the noise that they're making. Of course, this one's junk. You know the speed sensor tip has probably broke off that one over there.

You guys heard that one. That sucker is pretty noisy too. Uh, you know it's up to them. You know? pay me now or pay me later I Guess so.

Caliper is good. Parking brakes seem to work. This concerns me or brake lines about ready to pop there. It's just a short section line.

It goes down to this flex line. so that sucker is pretty nasty. these. Toyotas when you blow a brake line boy, it just empties them too.

This one's not as bad or hook side down there. it's not as bad. I Guess probably if we're doing one, we just do them both. But I'll leave that up to the customer.

Definitely This wheel bearing patch orders in the rear Now guys are freaking out because why don't I turn rotors? We'll have to have a look here. So when these rotors start to delaminate like this, if you put this on the brake lathe, by the time you turn it down to good material, it's pretty well non-existent. Plus, brake rotors are quite inexpensive. We don't turn the fronts vented rotors in the middle of the vents or the vents here.

they're just solid rust. I Mean, these things just crumble apart, so it's It's kind of ridiculous. Uh, you know the what the salt and corrosion stuff does here, but we're always way better off just replacing them. That's why 90 of the shots around here sold their lace years ago, so that's an easy sales guy doesn't want to estimate.

so if it's broke, fix it. I Want us to do both the rear wheel bearings even though the one isn't technically failed yet? Uh, he's pretty wise about that. Wants to do both the rear brake lines which I think are great idea even though they're not leaking Currently, he wants to fix those and then of course the rear pads and rotors and then on the front. We're going to do the caliper pins, bushings, the pin boots, and then just pads and rotors.

and I think what we'll do is we'll split this up into a couple videos. That way it doesn't run on so long like my explanation of things at some points where it just goes on and on and on. so stick around. we'll break it up, we'll do the front in the video, we'll do the back stuff, Check it out.

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You guys know what to do. Just my reviewers, we didn't do anything but. Anyhow, thanks for watching foreign.