Yeah, Mirrors! welcome back to the self made on Channel Guys are 2004. It's Chevrolet It's a Colorado It's got the big five cylinder, the 3.5 liter and has no four wheel drives. The guy wants to check that out. Took a little rip around town.

It does have a service four wheel drive message. Gosh I Can't talk man. you guys have to bear with me here. So yeah, there we go.

We got our service 4WD and we have no buttons over here. Nothing happens. Engine lights on ABS Lights on training. Don't shift all kinds of stuff but we're gonna fix full drive Key's on.

Got our MDI 2 hooked up power supplies on it. We're gonna pull some codes on this baby. So like I Say folks, bear with me on my speech I Got a new expander put in and my tongue is swole right now because I have this annoying chunk of metal underneath it. Brush your teeth.

Let me tell you that. Anyhow, we're gonna be using the tattoo. Win here! I Do have a real Tech too, but this is easier for you guys to see. so we're gonna film our way through this here.

Let's go Diagnostics And this baby is an old four I Believe light duty truck. it's a Chevrolet uh should be a T. There we go. it's Colorado We're gonna go Powertrain.

It's got the three five. It's the automatic read the codes, transfer case codes, service requested I Only got one code 3027 Okay, four minute mouth here I've been trying to talk today but here we are making a video. Co327 Excellent! Um Okay, well let's grab because really, nothing more to see. That's the code we have.

Let's get uh, some service data and let's see what uh, where the Co327 is I Don't think you can read data on these? Oops I'm pretty sure these older ones you can't I might have some bi-directional functions. Ended up style: X Reader: ATC Controls: Okay, so we can turn our indicator light turning off. We can run the motor on it, see if that does anything, hold the brake. Put it in neutral.

No, we don't want to do that because we're not in the car. Okay, we hear the front axle moving. That's good. Let me, uh, put this thing in neutral.

put that back out. hold on. standby break is on, it's in neutral I Don't know if these have a lock? I don't think they do So I don't know what this is going to do, but we're going to push buttons now here. Do I Just hear this high frequency noise if I don't hear it doing anything.

so we'll keep that in mind. It's pretty much all we can do. Foreign: Let's look up the code set criteria here. so we're going to use our Mitchell Pro domain here.

you guys can see I've got in here. there's an 04 Chevrolet Uh, we're gonna go to diagnostic information and procedures and we'll pick out our code. co327 dip here with some broken links that never work on Mitchell from an old system they had. Uh circuit description: I'm in no position to be reading.

especially words with S's let's see what it says. Transfer Case Shift Control Module has four encoder circuits. Each circuit supplied 12 volts. The four circuits are A, B, C, and P Because that makes sense.

We don't know what that could make sense. Each circuit runs to a switch located inside the encoder motor assembly. When it pair it, particular encoder circuit is active. The switch is closed.

12 volts is grounded by the switch inside the encoder, so that sounds pretty simple. Four wires. They're all supplied 12 volts and it pulls it to ground when the switch is closed. Okay, Transfer Case Shift Control Module supplies 12 volts on all the circuits.

The module can interpret the location of the transfer case shift position when the circuits are grounded. Well, that makes sense. Basically, just so. the same thing it said up here, except it tells you that by looking at each individual circuit and seeing which one is grounded, it can tell its position.

This code detects a fault when it compares the shift sequence forward slash strategy to a chart located in the read-only memory within the electronic control unit within the transfer case shift Patrol module. So it looks at it says hey, you're supposed to be this according to my ROM but you're not so turn the light on This is a conflict by the module reading a different combination of signals being grounded while the other remain high depending on what mode range of trans cases it. Okay, so that makes sense. So that's what it's looking at.

Conditions for running has to be on. Geon Okay, conditions for setting. We already learned that that the transfer case shift control module sets code when the encoder signals do not match the chart contained in its memory. This code can be set while no shift is requested or while its shift is being performed.

So basically it's looking at it all the time. See that mess up? Boom! What's it do? When the code sets, all motor activity will stop. All accessory mode indicators will be commanded off. Service 4 drive indicator will be on if a new mode is requested by the driver when the DCC is either current or present in DTC history if your new mode is requested.

Oh okay. the transfer case control module will allow to shift to two wheel drive mode. Wow. Transfer case control mods are not allowed for the remote changes, so that's where we're at.

All of our mode indicators are off, which they are. We have no lights on except the Service 4 drive light, so it's kind of test. You can't read data because that would be really nice to just look at it and say okay, which one of these switches is working, which one isn't and perhaps it would be nice to have a little chart to say you know, two-wheel drives. This four wheel drives that four low is this: You know what combination of those four wires make for a proper uh, you know Input: Check the inline connector C105 for proper connection bent pins.

Okay, C105, We'll have to keep that in mind. Check the transfer case control module connector C1 and C2 for bent pins. Okay, water leaks and door lock heads. Test Description: Like nice to see do we have? That's for the schematics.

that's parking brake, blah blah blah. Let's see. using a Dmn, add the encoded motor test circuits A B, C, and P for proper voltage. So if you remember right, we want to see Uh oh.

Okay, so it's here. It says it puts 12 volts on it so we need to check that. So that's a quick and dirty test. Unplug it is.

Our module is a transfer case module putting 12 volts down at those four wires. That's a test that we can do. uh, amycp checking for open to ground and I hate going down the whole flow chart of Broken Dreams here. but place the encoder motor, replace the module, then give up.

Okay, I wish we had a little chart that would tell us a B, C and P Let's get our schematic that's powers and grounds the DLC that's useless a quarter motor schematic. Here we go: transfer case encoder motor of course we can't see the jiggly bits on the inside so we don't know who's who, but we know we have A B, C P like Papa And then we have our actual motor control down here. Which interestingly enough, we tried to power this baby up with the scan tool bi-directionally and we didn't hear anything happen. We heard the front end engaged, but we didn't hear anything here.

Okay, that has a four low switch. Okay So that's transfer case shift control module toward the motor. What's that? Have my two? Is that a ground? Okay, and that's a ground. So we have a ground.

We have our two wires run into our motor that power that probably either direction I would assume and then we have our four switches. Let me see. I'm gonna poke around I Want to see if I can find this to switch chart so we can tell is this thing actually working? We make it down there. who knows.

We're speculating now, but this is the time to grab your data. I've mentioned numerous times that fixing cars is 80 or 90 percent of this and you know 10 or 20 percent of actual touchy feely. So I'm gonna see what else I can find for us switch control inputs to be really nice if they had a chart to say who does what All right? So here is the motor or the transfer case shift more I Guess it would be. So this is where our switched wires should also be.

that connector that's clean. So let's just try to identify some things first. Again, sorry about the search speech I Haven't been drinking, Trust me. I'm gonna start though.

I Got our diagram here. Uh, let's see. we should have one, two, three, four, five, six, seven wires. We've got four there.

Three there. Okay. I have two blacks, black and a black. Yep, and they're red into the white.

Okay, yeah, that looks right? Yeah, just at a glance that appears to be right. Okay, so our four colors actually. I Tell you what, let me get this up on the screen for you. but he's here to see.

All right. let's see where did we leave off here? I Had to walk away for a little bit Switch inputs Here we go. Okay, this will help me too. So I don't need these stinking glasses.

Let's see, we are looking at these four wires here. A B C and P what's it hangs? hints There we go. There's some old guy fishing. All right.

Red, white, yellow, black, all right. yellow, black, red, white. and then we got like a brown white. What's it say there? brown white and we've got one more.

It's got brown, white, red and white and then the blue white. Okay, so that's on the other side of the connector. Okay, so those are our four switches. Let's see.

Well, a couple things. Let's go to the motor, which is pin B and Pin C and these are labeled B and C so it says red and black so a which should be blue with white and it is and then B and then C So we're going to very gently front probe piece. What I want to do is see if we can light up this test light by activating the motor. so I'll leave that dangling just out of your vision.

Stick that back up here and get that stuck there for you. Then we'll pop open the scan tool. Okay, let's just pop back to our scan tool. Let's go to the output controls motor control.

Enter turn it on and we got no light. That's interesting I would assume. Oh, there we go. Now we do the time that's off.

Maybe it's trying to turn it now and look for position I Don't really know what's going on, so it's interesting. Take a while, turn it back on. Oh, when I turn it off, it doesn't sing. but I hear something click over here behind us.

But either case I Guess that tells the circuitry wise we're good. It's got to be a low amp circuit because these are pretty tiny wires. So I just used a quarter amp test light. Okay, so that tells us I thought there's something there, that's just something I wanted to know myself.

Let's do this. Let's do uh, pin ease or ground. Okay, let me get a t-pin here. Grab one of that little hat.

There's a t-pin so pin E. So we got a B, C D E should be in this corner. We're very likely going to probe that. I'm going to use that as our ground circuit.

I Don't know if the 12 volt is coming down these wires is enough to light 100 milliamp test light. It may not be. We're going to give it the old college track so we're just going to pick one. We're going to go on the old red and white here.

we're gonna see it may not like this. Oh oops, no sir. So I can mean a couple things. It could mean our ground is bad, which we're assuming it's good.

We're gonna go back into that ground. I'm just going to go down these and quarter wires here. It's not like teslie down any of them. So now we're going to be smart about this.

We're not going to assume that it can light a test light, but we're gonna assume our ground is bad. We're just gonna check that we're gonna grab a ground off the transfer case shift motor I'm just going to do that again real quick just to see it does not like the test light. Okay so now what we'll do is we'll be smart about we'll grab a meter and see if we have 12 volts because technically we should have 12 volts on the brown, the red, the yellow and the blue. according to our diagrams, let me go get a volt meter.

All right. So I got a Dvom here. You guys be able to see that I Just grounded with the black wire here I'll find a transfer case on the chassis and let's just start I got up on your screen there I Want to start right to left? We'll start left to right get where you can see it. So P Brown with white survey says we're hoping for 12 volts 13 volts because we have our battery tender on it now.

I'm going to take our test light. we're going to see without test light. it should pull that to ground because like say it's probably a very low current circuit based on how it works I'm just going to touch our back probe see what that does. It's doing nothing because I probably have a crappy ground here and get a good ground here.

There we go so it pulls it down to you know, 250 millivolts. Take my test light off. got back 13 ball so that's why I didn't like Tesla so I didn't like 100 milliamp test slate so it gives you an idea of how low current that circuit is. So okay so that is you know where we at here that's brown and white so it's p Then we'll go to a which is blue and white I'm gonna probe that 13 volts there and then yellow with black.

Okay, let's follow along. If you're not, it means we are right here. Quarter B signal. It's 13 volts.

I'm going to do our last one which is C red with white which is to be this way right here. 13 volts. So we have everything we need on those so we know this wire is good. That wire is good, That wire is good, That wire is good and our motor control appears to work.

Where we have left is our ground. of course we don't have. you know I mean current, but we can check to see if at least doesn't have ghost voltage. Tells us a little something here so it's plugged into our ground.

should go around zero volts. Study out. Okay, so that tells us our ground is good with a grain of salt. It's not doing this right here.

It's not a bunch of ghost voltage. It's not a broken wire. Doesn't mean that ground can carry current, but it does mean the wires intact now. I Did find something for us here folks.

I Found this on the Identifix couldn't find it in service data. Here's a little chart I Was looking for when we're in four: Low P should be at Zero Volts encoder, a encoder B and quarter C So all of them should be at zero Volts set for B So what we want to look at right now: So it has low Hot. Too high for high neutral. so in too high we should have Zero Volts on P which is on your screen here.

So we're expecting to see zero volts here. 12 volt, 10 a zero volts and 12 volts on C. Of course, in order to do that, it needs to be plugged in. So let's first of all, let's plug it in.

Let me get the wires untwisted here so we can back pull them easily. So okay, so the encoder motor is plugged in according to this chart that I got off the Identifix which we need to kind of take this with a grain of salt too because I did not pull out of service data somebody else's type type up. Hopefully it's good. I'm going to make sure we've got a good ground here and according this fella too high.

P Which we look on our screen here. brown and white should be at zero volts. So I'm going to back probe brown with white see what that says Round white is near zero. Five millimolts.

can you guys see that here? Turn on turn light temporarily. so 5.7 millivolts and then it says pin A or a encoder circuit A Blue with white should be 12 volts. So let's see blue is white. We're going to probe that and it's at 13 volts.

correct? Okay, and then it says where we at here too high B which we look here is yellow. Black should be at zero volts. so we're gonna find it I'm gonna throw plug it so I can get to that side. We're gonna back probe.

we have a good connection. We have 13 volts there I'm going to plug it back in yellow with black B supposed to be zero and it is I'll plug it. it should go high again. Oops.

Pulled out my back probe. let me make darn sure I had a good back profile to make sure our test is valid. Okay, there's 13. I'm going to plug it back in.

it should go to zero. Okay, it did. Make sure we didn't push out our back probe, we didn't unplug it and now we need to go to encoder C Which that one is supposed to stay high at 12 volts and that is the red with white wire. So we're going to back probe Redwood White I have it unplugged right now.

Okay, that's high. you high plugged in. it stays high. So that's really interesting because theoretically this should work and why doesn't it? Because it appears that we have everything we need Now we don't know.

The encoder motor itself is good, but that didn't seem to be part of the code set criteria. According to this chart that somebody kindly posted on Identifix, it is correct. We have zero on P 12 on a zero on B 12 on C Interesting. We also know that that ground is good because that's what's pulling our switches down.

Let's go back here. Let's uh, foreign. Okay, so I did hear that try to turn. Let me turn the drives.

Yes here. All right. So that's interesting. It is definitely a two-wheel drive.

Let's exit out of this. Give that a second, we'll back out. I Don't know why it continues to run that motor control all right. Then we're going to exit again.

and then let's just go. Codes: We might have a bunch of codes because we had it unplugged. Nope, we didn't. So that's interesting.

What about back back out of here. All right? Yes, we want to clear this. Oops. All right, let's go see if the uh, let's see if the lights work.

Now that's kind of kind of bizarre. Let's all these wheels up off the ground here. Oh look at that. the lights lit up.

Now come on here. Let me sneak in here and move our brake a little depressor and I think it's gonna be depressed as me. let's uh, fired up. two-wheel drive? Yeah, that sucker shifted right in.

All right or low. What are you gonna do to get new training? We can hold these two for neutral I can't remember if you gotta do a Kion engine off for time to break again where we don't really need neutral. Nobody uses it while being depth and I just piss you off. This is freaking through the codes when I first got in it.

Huh? According to service data though, I thought it was self-clearing I thought it wasn't present through itself. Thank you! Awesome! We put clapping around there trying to hide what? I'm trying to hide? Nope, we got here. Oh boy. I Can't get through the other side I got it all blacked out? You're clipping and clapping.

You got here. What you really says: I Hate those shoes I Like them I Think they're pretty like it sounds like a two-footed horse. Trinity You should like it. What goes clip clap click clap bang bang clip clap clip clap clip clap I Must drive by shooting.

Come on you didn't know that one. Ain't that a pisser. What are you gonna do now? Nothing because it works. Um well.

I guess. Give it a benefit of doubt, you know. I'm looking at diagram there is that C105 connector which happens to be right here by the battery which is great. It doesn't look like anybody's touched it.

I See the Christmas tree still intact? We can look at that connector. We've already looked at the connector and transfer case motor and then I guess we could look at the ground, but that terminates under the under hood fuse box right here. But we can look where it terminates this G103 wherever that lives. But I guess First, let's look at this.

oh what. This thing is some kind of aftermarket garbage. Uh, we'll pop out this C105 like I say this thing looks appears to be a virgin, doesn't look like anybody's ever had it off the Box another way because it's going to break that Christmas tree. Fastener If we do it this way, there we go.

Get this little lock tab up I Don't know what you guys can see, but it's a little tight down here. the lock tab up. hit the button. This would be the one that would be crappy.

I would think if any of them are going to be crappy just because it's next to the bed like I say looking just digital inspection. This truck doesn't really look like anything's been touched other than you know the aftermarket stuff here. So the female half here looks nice and clean. Foreign business.

Now technically though, technically we should have just set a code we should have a Co327 at now because we just open circuited the entire circuit. So in this connector here we have both the motor control circuits, all the encoders, the two of the four wheel drive signal, front axle actuator and that's it. So let me. Oh shoot, I already closed out the scan tool.

Let me just look inside and see if the Lights Went Out Foreign. Yes, the four wheel drive lights no longer are on. so that tells me you know we set a code which I anticipated that we would do. Technically if it works like service data says it should, we should trip the code and clearly we did.

So let me latch this back onto the Christmas tree fastener. And we did. We set that 302 c0327. So I'm going to back back out and just clear that back out of there and that's just from unplugging it.

So G103 lower left side of engine. that's when we're after. um I looked at which is number 15 on here. there's number 15.

so it's back here on the back corner of the engine according to OEM Service data and I come up here and I can see they're looking a little crusty I You know, obviously it's working at this point. Are there issues At certain points, there's only three wires, two grounds. One of those is G103 I assume it's a single one I don't know. just take them off, put new eyelet on it cause a day that one.

oh there's actually one more back there too not knowing exactly which one is G103. I'm gonna do them all. See, none of them really look terrible except for it where the wire hooks onto them a little bit. This one looks the worst.

Pull it apart I'm wasting our time. You guys know I'm watching any of my 1700 videos they put out I Never go on. Wild Goose Chase is like this and Nine Cents always followed the data because then you end up with places like this where you're just following a wild goose chase. Let me just wiggle this one.

This is the greenest one of them all. This one's pretty green I Don't know I've unhooked them I'm going to cut them, just put new eyelets on them just just because. Other than that, we have no more data to go off from the connectors. look clean.

The only connectors we didn't check our transfer case control module itself. there's a couple Pips put out by GM which essentially is just wild goose Chase says, you know, check every single connector to check the fuse box, check the window for window leaks, check everything which is just nonsense. that's stupid. Don't ever don't ever do that.

That's just uh like say if you got no facts to follow, you're just guessing like I say this one here seems the crappiest of them all. I'm gonna put three eyelets on it. we're gonna ship it was that one. Those are doubles single and I'm just gonna stick them right back where they were.

All right. That's it baby. Well we did good now folks. We fixed it till it's broke now it doesn't even freaking run I set it down, turn the key back on so I can check it for codes it doesn't crank and when I look and yes everything's hooked back up under there I'm gonna hit those a few wires unhooked our diagnostic I'm gonna go back down here my four Lake truck Chevrolet and then we have tea.

Oops there's a T Colorado Powertrain Three Five Automatic Codes Codes codes. The only codes that's in it is for lost to come with the ABS which I assume somebody yanked the fuse out of so that's the only code that's in. it is lost the kind with ABS module and then um unless I just got lucky to draw something freaking time. It acts like a dang starters junk.

Let's go to Um Three Five Four Speed. We want codes and we want transfer case codes. See what we got here so no codes in transfer case start piss me off man junk. Uh let's see.

let's find the starter relay mini relays number 62. that's this big Honker right here. What's this guy? Let me get a relay bypass Jiggy Winter and see if our because I went to power voting to see to make sure that the key was. you know, make sure it could recognize that there's no security issues.

There's no nothing we can back out of here. Um, back out of here. Back out of here. Back out.

Oops! Colorado GM You go down into power mode and you can see right now we're in the Run position. Now when I turn the key to retained accessory power accessory off and crank it shows all the power modes there so that tells me that that portion of the ignition switch should be okay. Let's just see about this fella. Let me get a bypass sometimes.

the guy just wants to go home at the end of the day gets off. Let's stick our bypasser in here. All right. Look at that so that cranks over.

Why the heck aren't we receiving the crank signal? See if it'll start? Oh, she got a no start starter. Motor is good I Don't have a freak hole, man. come on. All right, let's grab us the ground.

I'm just gonna look at the crank circuit, the start circuit, what it takes to turn this relay on, Then we'll work our way backwards. All right. According to this, the relay we know from the relay out is good. So fuse number 43.

let's find that that should be good because we cranked it by bypassing it 43. That's one of those big jumbos over here and that looks good. Of course you know that one's good because that's the uh I tell you what. You guys really got to understand this if we get it up on your screen.

So let's just cut the crack All right. I Got a test flight here. We're gonna need to do some some checking. so up on your screen you see the wiring diagram here for the starter relay.

That's what we want to turn on. which we know we know this part of it's good. We know this. this side of it's good because let's look here.

our purple wire I should go to the starter right. and it does. That goes to the starter. We know the starter is good.

We know the battery cable there is good. We know purple wire is good. We know this fuse is good because we already tested the load Side by bypassing it. What about what are we missing? What are we missing over here? The side of it here.

We got a park neutral switch lower left side transmission that comes from ignition Fuse 23. So let's find that. let's make sure that we are good on the power side. So number 23.

I'm gonna find that here in my fuse box 23 which is 22.23 Which is there power on that side? Are you freaking kidding me? We got a bad fuse. How do we just randomly blow a fuse, huh? right? Am I Being stupid. What are we both fuse? We had to key off. We change a couple grounds.

there's that fuse. There's that fuse that fuses junk. Yeah, that's burnt too. Let me grab another 15 amp and when I initially turned the key on, when I set it back down I checked code there I didn't hear anything and it didn't uh didn't do anything funny.

All right. Well that's weird. Let's stick this baby in there. Okay, let's move the computer here.

but I don't know why that would have just randomly blown fuse. All right Eric that's what you get for getting pumped. Thank you. Some kind of GPS device watching you baby.

oh it's baby. I'm gonna take it for a rip. We're gonna make sure the four Drive works. quitting for the day.

Um, we're not driving the truck now because we don't have any license plates. Uh, the fellow who owned it which I knew this was sending some people down to pick up the plates because he's switching registration something like that. So as soon as I pulled it out, they pulled in the license plates. So I gave them the license plates.

However, when I was out there when it was idling I noticed this earlier and I was speaking to the guy about it. It runs like crap. It runs, it stalls even just sitting here idling. Um, which misses always tell me that people are here to get the plates.

It's gone three or four times. just quits. I had hopped in there and uh, the engine light was on previously but it was not now because you know we had everything hooked and cleared. Um I was in there looking I could see the field trims were just going all over the place.

It appears if I had to take a W-a-g which is a wild old gas. Uh, looking at fuel trim looking the O2 sensor it looks like it has an Upstream O2 sensor that is semi non-functional Looks like it sticks. let's say 100 millivolts and then the fuel trim starts correcting correct and correcting until it goes kills itself. Not an uncommon issue, However, when it was working and appeared normal, it appeared to have a vacuum leak and appeared to be running really lean.

so we may have a couple of issues there. Long story short, as they say he left the vehicle, he's going to bring me plates and I told him I don't know what's wrong with the four-wheel drive. It's fixed, it works. so it's kind of a stupid video of I don't know but we're waiting for plates and we're going to come back in.

Part two: stick around foreign.