Hello everybody! Good day to you and welcome back! Glad you guys are here. This is going to be the long awaited. Uh I Do Cars ripoff Style Video where I'm going to autopsy this 3.6 L Penar engine that came out of a 2017 I think it was a Chrysler Pacifica that uh well, it broke, it blew up. This thing came in Once Upon a Time with a cylinder 3 misfire and it was supposed to go to the dealership to see if there was any kind of warranty regarding that misfire.

I I Figured there was some kind of a cylinder head issue like a leaking valve seal or something like that. and a couple days later, uh, it broke a a connecting rod off and smashed a hole through the side of the block. We ended up pulling the oil pan down and we found a bunch of metal pieces of the engine block and we found some uh, connecting rod pieces. but uh, no damage.

Other than that, the crank wasn't broken, the bearings weren't broken. Um, all that we know is there's holes smashed in both sides of the engine block and we had found part of the connecting rod which was bent and wedged against one of the crank shaft counter weights. Uh, we can see inside here the bearings on this are pristine so it did not suffer a bearing failure. Uh, what I would like to know is how did this rod end up breaking what happened and what failed.

So what I'm going to do today is we're going to wheel this thing inside and we're going to perform the autopsy on this 36 Penar V6 So uh, let me get this thing moved inside. I'm going to put you guys up here for a minute. We're going to roll her in, get it under the light, get it next to a table, and start stripping this thing down to the Bare Bones and see what happened inside of this particular engine. So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video.

Hi Dave hey toing the hood. Look who that guy is Rolling Rolling Rolling. Engine stands are rolling. Yeah, we're going to bring this over here into the light next to the tools and uh, we'll get her torn apart.

That's good. Cool. All righty. So I guess the best place to start is going to be top down.

Obviously we've been into the bottom of bottom end of this thing before. uh, like I mentioned earlier, we found, uh, what broke but we never found out what caused the break. So we're going to pull off the valve covers. we're going to pull off this lower intake manifold, we're going to remove the oil cooler Sly from the valley that valve cover and then um, then we'll pull the cylinder heads off and take a look inside and see what has become destroyed.

I'm going to try to save maybe whatever I feel is necessary or or worth saving. Rather, so we'll try to save maybe the coils um, the valve covers themselves are probably savable, but I don't know if I have a use for them. Um, maybe maybe I'll put them on a shelf and then one day I'll uh I'll have a need for one of these. but I I really don't know.

I'm going to try to not hoard pieces of this because after all, it is just a penar and there's billions of them out there and half of them are blown up. So I don't I don't really know. I don't really have a plan, but we're going to pull this down and find out. If memory serves, it was cylinder 3 that had blown up and that is going to be I Think this is number three the cylinder right here.

so we'll pull apart the blown up side first and uh and see what's going on in the in there. So we've got the 8 mil coming in. Let's go ahead and get all these uh cover bolts off. Super hot feed.

Okay, a couple more here and that's should do it for all the perimeter bolts. See if this thing's going to come off? Yeah. Negative: Pry bar. need to pry bar it apart? Let's get under it with the uh, well, that's not working either there easy way: we'll pry bar it from the cam shafts.

Why not? It's all blown up anyway. Destroy. Sort of. What are we stuck on? Why are we not coming off? Yeah, okay, it's something over here on this side Holding this up, thinking, maybe this uh, Tcv hose thing right here? That might be it.

More pry bar? Yeah, that could have been it. That's definitely hanging on to the end of that cam. Let's pry this up, see what she does. Maybe these sensors are hanging us up too.

It's very much a possibility. Come off. Yeah, it's that guy right there that's doing it. Okay, okay, that's a Torx 30 right there.

Let's switch up our tools. pull that unit out. Yeah, that was holding on to it. Okay, now it's mostly free here.

We go. Okay. under the valve cover. There's not much help here.

Cams look okay. Timing chains are good. A Little bit of sludge and stuff built up in here, but the valve train is still in it. and this is number three.

Yeah, it's the one in the back Center cylinder. so this still our affected cylinder. but I've got no indicators of a failure here, so let's keep digging. Let's get some of this uh, extra nonsense off of here.

We've got a couple harness bolts that are grounds to the cylinder heads. Pull those guys off. Drop that thing out of the way in the box of trash for you. That harness is broken.

We can't reuse that. There's I don't think there's anything here that's really reusable so lower intake don't need that. This other valve cover. That one's already disconnected and unbolted.

so we're just going to try this thing out. and same as the other side. I Don't see any, uh, any valve train damage in here. The the followers didn't fall out.

lifters are still there so the top side is not destroyed. Okay, see more bolts for me. Pull this. uh EGR cooler looking.

Come out of here. I think that's what this is EGR There we go. Are you detached? That's a negatory? Another one back here. Okay, that's our cooler.

It's leaking coolant BR to the box with you. and I'm going to fetch a couple Pig mats for all my spillages here. So I'm not traing coolant and nasty stuff all over the floor. That would be bad.

All righty. next. I Think I Want to let's pull the cams out of this thing. Get the timing chains off.

Maybe. Should we? uh, should we cut the cams out of it for a saw? or should I actually disassemble it? What do you guys think? H I'll tell you what. Let's just disassemble it. Why not? It should be coming apart fairly easily.

All the accessories are gone. We'll hit it with impacts and pull it all all apart. That should not be a problem. All right.

27 mm? Nope. Tell you what. let's do a battery change. This one's not dead, but it's also not the uh, the factory battery that goes in this.

Switch that out to another one. There we go. Oh look at that flowing oil everywhere. Okay, now this may not need a puller.

Okay, pull the crank pulley off. That's savable. So we have a couple of pulley here. Let's get rid of these guys.

I Missed the Box on that one. Oops. So there's two. Let's get our tensioner and then we can pull.

Oh, here we go. Big bracket right here. That's a good bolt to keep more impact needed. We can trade this up to the 38 gun.

There we go. More Steam Okay, what's next here? We've got got a thermostat housing. I See no reason to not pull that off. neck.

that's just three more 10 ms looks like I Hope it's done. Sping Coolant I Think so. Okay, there's our thermostat that's a proprietary thermostat so you can't just put in anything. You've got to get the one that actually goes to it.

That's good to know. And we've got this thermostat housing looking deal here. or water Outlet or whatever. But what's valuable to me are all these.

Fasteners We're pulling this out next. I Want the bolts? Save those for later. You never know when you need some bolts. There we go.

I Think that's all of those. Pop this guy loose, pull the gasket out with it and looks like the water pump is going to be next. Okay, let us get this coolant hose thing cut off and out of the way. I'm not going to spend an incredible amount of effort taking this apart in a fashion that could go back together.

We're going to do this junkyard style back in with the 10 m this side. This piece is definitely going to spill some coolant. I Think ready you couple more three to go Ding Fries Are Done Remember that old Burger King commercial. wasn't it ding frieser done I think it was BK uh another there a 13 right there I Missed it no matter what about now.

Water pump removal complete. Oh look at that look right there that was a leaker. see that that's not okay and that right there Surprised this thing. uh, didn't overheat when it ran.

that's not okay junk. Okay, let's move this thing over. slightly rotate it some or whatever. I Want to get to this area over here.

We're going to pull off this tensioner this side of the timing cover and I don't know why, but there's maybe there's two timing covers here. Perhaps there's a cover over a cover? I've actually never had one of these apart this far. but I think this is a cover over a cover. So let's pull off our first cover here.

and then, uh, we see what's underneath of that. All right. So let's get this little tube business out of here. I think that's a 13, get rid of that and then tensioner that looks like a 17.

Grab the socket here. Okay, more 10 mm revealed. This is okay I Guess more fasteners for my inventory? Pull these guys out. There's another 17 there.

I Think that's all of the perimeter bolts with the exception of these two big ones. Slippage: 16 Yeah, oh that's the wrong socket. That's a 16. Fail.

I Wonder if this is one of those cars that takes a new size socket for like almost everything we do before. you knowe you got every tool box or every tool from your box removed? All right. Pry bar action here on our first cover. I Think it's a it's a part.

Oh no, this isn't two covers like a cover over a cover. This is all one big cover now. I See I See what we're doing here now? Three more Fasteners On this side I Felt that two timing covers was kind of weird, but you never know these. Chrysler Mercedes Ram Dodge Fiat Whatever.

Whoever made them Jeeps Just never know I Believe this cover assembly is completely disconnected. Yep, she's loose and there is our Timing System So this looks to me like we've got three timing chains in this engine. Got one down below that runs the oil pump. There's our oil pump and its drive gear.

That's the chain guide. and there should be a tensioner somewhere in there for that chain. Oh no No no no. look.

four chains. There's a chain from the crank that goes up to this shaft with that tensioner. Then There's this chain right and down there with that tensioner. And then you've got an individual chain for each Bank of cam shafts on either cylinder head with that tensioner and that tensioner right there.

and the rubber has come off of that tensioner. Okay, well. let's uh. let's pull this guy off.

We'll pull this chain off. Then we'll pull that chain off. and that should be enough to, uh, start to pull the cams out. Then we can pop these cylinder heads off.

Back to the Torx bit again. T30 Okay, need a manual ratchet? All right. Coming back in, we' got the bigger ratchet here. The manual ratchet.

rather. Let's crack all these guys loose. Get the ones on the other tensioner up top as well. Any other torx bits I need to pay attention to.

Yep, there's some on the guides. Let's get those loose. A there we go and then one more right up here. Okay, y, those are all for the chain guides.

Now we can go back to these tensioners. Some tension on our tensioners? Uh. St Squint there we go. Okay, that one's out and there's one of the guides.

That guide looks pretty good. Okay, let's get this other guide off. since the Bolt's right in front of us right here and our tensioner right here. It's still under tension.

That's fine though. it's leaking some oil. P Maybe this Gu over here? I Don't know. Perhaps the valve springs have some tension on this chain like it's trying to turn.

I no more guides I'll take these off if I get that guide to flop around that I know there's no t on that guide. looks okay as well. Okay, there is our chain for one cylinder head. get rid of that guy and this other side.

that one's a little. that one's kind of stuck I'm so glad I don't have to put this back together. that would be I wouldn't enjoy that I mean we wouldn't be this far along in the project if this was a a job going back together. so I guess I can't complain too much.

but I can complain about how this is supposed to come out of here. Oh there we go with some Grace and finesse. Ray you can't fry bar everything. There we go.

that's our other chain there po that aside in our in our junk pile. So now the front end is stripped off of timing components. Let's go back around to the top side, start pulling the cam shafts out. All right, let's go ahead and move back around to this side here and we can start to pull P these cams out.

so we're back to our torque bit again and I know that these guys are going to be kind of super tight so we'll do that with the ratchet here. I'm just, uh, not convinced if the impact will break these dudes loose or not. Yep, and the reason we need to pull the cams is we need to get to the bolts that Bolt the cylinder heads down and we cannot do that. No, put the cams in place.

There we go. It's half of them. Multiple unclicks there. we go.

Back to the impact here. slipp it. Bearing face looks good. so there was a I Don't think there was an oil starvation event.

All right. Can was stuck. Uh, fry bar. There we go.

They got a little wedged in on that front uh, front surface. there. just a little set these guys aside that one. threee gravity valve tring gravity.

Okay, so there's one of our rockers that's the one that fell out. That rocker appears to be in tact. That one's good. There goes.

the lifter came with it. Okay, so this is all the cylinder 3 components right here. Or these are these cylinder 3 components and I am just going to set these aside for closer examination later if we need to. but it looks like we have no failures up top.

So let's pull the rest of this valve train out. Got the Rockers and if they come out, we'll pull the lifters with it. If the lifters stay in the cylinder head, then, uh, it doesn't really matter. Okay, okay coming in with the 15 mm on the/ in Impact we're going to pull the cylinder head bolts next.

Get these guys out of here in theory. Wow, that's tight. This gun can't do it then. Uh I better take the extension off and try again.

There it goes. That one went. can't reach that one. Okay, two up in the front I cannot reach.

My snout is too large to fit in the hole, but try that extension one more time. Aha I Got one last one. Do it all right. All of the head bolts have been removed or unbolted.

Rather, they're loose. So let's pop these guys out there. we go. I Think there's just eight of them I don't think there are any others on the front side anywhere.

Okay, now need more pry bar action? Let's crack this head loose. see if we can't get it to come off. Oh, it's already fairly loose. Okay, good, so up we go.

Come on. Cylinder head. what do we have here? Oh who? who? Whoa. I See something broken? Let's see.

let's investigate this a little bit further here. That's our cylinder 3 that's the one that was affected. Uh, what? I was originally concerned with was a valve seat falling out of it or dropping a valve or something and that does not appear to be the case. We can however, see there's some damage to the combustion chamber here and here, but nothing really horrible inside of this head.

These actually might be decent heads that could be, uh, reused. I Think these heads are okay, but over Here, we're not seeing much of anything we didn't already know. Got a crack piston? I See a chunk missing out of it? See that chunk right there that's gone. Big old crack running down it.

But what? I'm not really understanding is why is this piston cleaned and the others are pretty dirty? Like this one. you can see all this carbon and whatnot built up on it. Get all that right there. Same thing on that one there, but this one is clean now.

I Know we were Boros scoping this engine before it blew up and we did not have that problem. It was not cracked and this was not steam cleaned. I'm wondering if may you know what what if it's overheating or the thing overheated and it had a cylinder head gasket, let go and it was getting coolant inside of there and then it hydrolocked. Yeah, it could have done that cuz that piston is pretty super steam clean and what I had thought were uh Impressions from the valves.

uh did not appear to be Impressions from the valves unless uh, somehow this piston got pushed up all the way and it just ran into the bottom of the combustion chamber. That's that's a possibility and then the valves were just coming down and hitting it, pushing it back down. That could have occurred. Really hard to tell.

Uh, let's go ahead and move over to the other side. We're going to pull this other cylinder head off and then flip this unit over and uh, we can get access to the bottom side. We'll push this piston out and then examine those Rings a little bit further so bear with me. We got one more head to pull off and then, uh, we'll get this thing flipped and the autopsy will continue all right over here.

on the bank two side, we've got this bracket business let's get rid of that. Probably could have left it there, but it does need to be there. And I switched out this torque to a short one that appears to take these bolts out. So I went from two steps to One Step Efficiency.

Aha got you. Okay, cams are loose. let's pop these guys out. Now normally we'd have to keep these in order cuz they would have to go back in the same order.

but uh, I'm junking all of this so they're not staying in order. don't care And then our cams. These guys can come right on out. There we go.

We'll pull all of the valve train components and just like the other side. I See no, uh, catastrophic failures here. This stuff is all in good shape so it was not a contributing factor to the destruction of this engine. I Thought it was going to be valve train related, but it's not cuz the valve train looks great in the Box All right, let's get the remainder of these cylinder head bolts out and we'll pop this one off.

Check the other side. I'm mostly having to pull this off just for weight management. That way we can roll this block Lo over and upside down. Nope.

Yeah, nope. Okay. losing. oo that socket's getting hot.

Losing the extension? Get on there please. Oh, that one doesn't fit. All right thing's on there. Okay, all all but one try one more time with this extension.

Look at that came right out. That's Weir Go pry bar action. We'll crack the head loose, lose some coolant. Little bit of spillage going on.

No worries. there she is. And similar to the other side, we've got a bunch of crusty carbon buildup, but nothing crazy going on here. Okay, let's flip this unit upside down, pull the pan back off of it, and then we can pop that number three piston out.

Take a look at the Rings So what we need to do is pull this bolt out right here. That's what's keeping us uppr right and we'll just flip her right on over if it gets away from me. I'm running away. You hear all those pieces flopping around in there? That's not okay.

that's metal chunks and we need more absorbent mats for this. Exxon Valz that I've just created. mixed with a little bit of coolant, it's growth. Not great for the floor.

it's OSHA violation there. Still some extra in there just for fun. Okay now on the oil pan. I Think we've just got.

It's like just one bolt holding the thing back on. Yep, that one there. There are no others. We can see some of the damage that has occurred to this engine block and oil pan.

That's from the rod swinging around and smacking in everything after the rod broke. Yeah, more metallic pieces. Look at that piece of a there's a connecting rod piece. That's good one.

Yeah, that's that's connecting rod. That's the piece that attached to like right here somewhere. and I don't know where the rest of it is probably still in the block somewhere. Okay so what we need to do is reach down and find the bottom of that piston with the pry bar and we're going to kind of push it down and I need to C catch it on the bottom side here.

One hand's going to catch it. one hand's going to push it down. so let's see here cuz I don't want it to break or fall apart and I want to examine the Rings and whatnot. Oh that.

Piston's uh, not in good shape. Wow Let's uh, get this head gasket off. It won't pass through the gasket. There's our pry bar and we have a piston stuck in a head gasket here piece falling out of it.

Oh we got pieces of a piston. It was formally a piston and it's very stuck. What have I done? Oh no. the Rings have expanded and captured.

It's captured the gasket. Just trying not to cut myself. Here There we go. Okay, y That's our broken piston to the bench with us.

Let's go take a look at this unit. Do so. We've got the rod that we recovered in a previous video piece of a rod and then right here is our broken into pieces piston with the other piece of the rod. and I'm assuming that one connected there and then here.

so that might be the entire Rod I Don't think it's broken in more than one place, or more than, uh, two places. Yeah, this thing's totally broken apart and falling apart. That's the retainer ring for the wrist pin. so it looks like this engine has floating wrist pins.

I Want to take a look at that pin and see if uh, it's all scored up at the area where the the rod r onto it? I'm wondering if this Rod was actually bent and it just put a bunch of crazy side load on it until it broke the Piston Really hard to tell. Now all the Rings are here. It's got the oil control rings and the uh, the oil control ring and the two compression rings. so those are all present and accounted for so a ring didn't come apart.

I Don't think that's our middle ring and top top ring that's intact so we did not lose a ring All we know is we have a broken and bent rod and a broken piston. Still not much explanation for how we got there. Uh, there it is and the oil rings are usually three pieces. see how that's a too small? and then it's got this corrugated ring like two super thin ones sandwiched on the outside of the cug.

That's what controls our oil at the oil scraper. Yep, it's broken clean in half right there. Look at that, the small end of the rod and our wrist pin not looking horrible I I Don't know what caused this to blow up. It must have hydrolocked like.

that's all I can really think is that there was a hydrolock activity and there was coolant or water water in that combustion chamber. Then over here taking a look at the cylinder head gasket. I Don't see anything that's staring at me in the face that says that this gasket had let go either. it must have though because this is that's clean on top the cylinder or on top that piston.

It must have had a a coolant leak into the uh, cylinder head some or into the combustion chamber. I Don't see any other explanation here. Okay, well we still have nothing more than a hypothesis for how this blew up. We've got the affected components apart.

let's um, let's go back to the engine and continue the autopsy. Maybe we'll find some more destruction inside? Maybe not, but it's worth a shot to continue to take apart. Let's pull the crankshaft out next and see if there's any destruction going on with the crank. Plus, we also have more Fasteners to harvest unclicks and these are good ones here.

13s and a bracket. I Don't need the bracket, but I do need the bolts. Okay, that's good for this side. Let's uh, move up to the top and pull the oil pump off next.

Looks like that's going to be a 10 mil. I Think it's just four more bolts on this. uh pump. o This is a variable geometry or variable displacement oil pump.

It's got this uh, pressure solenoid over here on the other side. Show you in a moment. Let's get this. that off there.

paying no regard to it's not going to come off easily, paying no regard to the chain. Get rid of that right now. Goodbye chain. Uh, maybe not.

There we go. there's our chain jump. Let's see over here. It appears that the oil pump is is connected to the block with a wire.

So let's pull this little sensor business out. That's the connector. See, let's press the tab in and use the pry Hammer cuz everything is a hammer. There we go.

That's our connector. And here's our pump with the pickup. That's pickup sump right there. plastic and that's the solenoid.

This unit here somehow actuates and I'm not super familiar with how these things run that actuates a mechanism inside of the pump that can actually change the displacement. I Think it turns down oil pressure during low demand times to, uh, reduce the load on the engine and save some fuel. All right. moving up a little higher here, we're going to go ahead and pull the rest of this windage tray out.

It's a several 10 m bolts. Again, yeah, not with that gun. I'll rephrase. not with that socket.

The extension eats up all the torque. Seriously. Okay, look are tight. I Guess they don't want them falling off while the engine's running.

so I Do not often need a 10 mm socket that is/ in drive. but when you need one. I got one. 10 for everything.

See if this one's going to take it off, that's in there. Yeah, that's half the windage tray. This is designed to prevent oil from splashing up and hitting the crankshaft, causing resistance and reducing efficiency and power output. So that's both of the windage tray pieces.

Pull these guys out and set that stuff aside. no longer needed and we have exposed our crankshaft. from this angle. we can see just how, uh, extensive the inspection holes in the side of the block are and fit a headbolt through this side.

Almost. Oh, it's so close. While I can fit a head bolt through this side, that side is, uh, almost broken through enough. Very, very smashed.

So what we need to do is pull the connecting rod bolts off of the these rod ends and then drop the Pistons and rods out through the front or through the top of the block. Then we can unbolt the main caps and slide this crankshaft out. We can hit these guys with the 11 mm. Okay, that's one of the mains.

Let push this guy out through the bottom just like that broken one and pry bar. Grab that pry bar here. We're going to tap this thing down with the pry bar device and then catch the Piston as it comes out through the bottom. Usually I wouldn't use a pry bar on this.

I would use a like a piece of wood or the back side of a hammer. But since none of this stuff is going to run ever again. I Don't mind smashing it. So there is an intact piston and an intact connecting rod which is not what we found in cylinder 3.

We found the opposite of such things. So we're not going to do this in any particular order. I'm going to pull the main caps, the rod caps off, whichever ones are pointed at us. Then we're going to have to turn the Uh, turn the crankshaft until the rods that we cannot reach have come up to the top here and uh, then we can hit those on with the impact, pull those caps off, and then drop those Pistons out.

So what I'm saying is you got to do this in some kind of a sequence. So pull next cap out. Sometimes the bearings will stay, sometimes they'll come with you. Pull, push that piston down and out.

I Can't do it by hand. We'll use the hood prop for this next one. Just go in and tap it on down and maybe we'll find more bent rods in here. Got that one there? That one's in good shape.

It does not appear to be bent. that's too removed. Let's see. I can reach.

Yeah, these two are out. That one is number three that we took out originally. Let's turn this crank. some just push down in the counter.

We oh I know what we'll do. We can use the pry bar on the reluctor wheel, which you should never do and turn it like that. That works there more Fasteners here. Okay, one more main cap Rod cap.

That one's not looking too hot. It's a little bit of scoring in there, but that's also not the bearing surface. Okay, let drop this guy out through the bottom and we tap it. I'm reaching down with my other hand to catch the Piston knock it right on out.

There's another piston and I found more pieces of aluminum hanging out inside of that piston. Look at that. It's just kind of stuck in there. It's very stuck in there.

even know how that got in there. Either way, that rod looks okay. Let's get the two up on the front side here. We'll pull those guys out next.

Spin this guy around two more. Fasteners So I can reach four more Fasteners That one looks good and we can send this piston out. that's going to be on y'all side over there. let's tap it down.

Catch it. Missed it. Oh man. head flashlight.

Gravity down everything down. piston flashlights hit my Noggin You guys got hit disaster. Anyway, so here is the next piston. I think that's out of cylinder 2.

Again, no bent Rod rings are okay. no crack in the Piston All right, that one's fine and we've got one more here on my side. We can start to work on this crankshaft. Tap it right on out.

got a bearing that's okay and one other Rod also okay. nothing wrong with that. Now we need to pull the main caps off here here here and here and we should be able to sneak this crank out. Seriously.

H Tight. All right. We'll have to do this manually. Okay.

16 mil socket on the big ratchet. it's half in drive and then I will use a bar. This is the uh the Jack Bar for a floor jack I Use this guy here to break these loose unpage. Yeah, those are those are very tight.

See the twist in that one The Recoil was so bad it put the ratchet in the opposite mode. It switched it from loosen to tighten off to on y. Same thing with that one turn. There we go.

Two more last one unclicks. Good main cap trick. Watch this right here. These are uh, sixbolt.

Mains We've got gravity. We've got those with the two bolts we pulled out for the windage trays, then the two main bolts, and then it's got two more on either side going through the block skirt. So this is actually a six bolt engine. Couple more bolts on the side.

we'll take care of those. Mains that's four and then there's four more on that side over under. See that one move. Yeah, now they're loose.

can't reach that one yet. Need an extension? But as I was saying what we can do, we take our bolts and use that to wiggle the Maines out and they serve as a pretty decent handle. You squeeze them together, then you can pull so that's our main cap. We got four of those in total.

come out, got that one, and again, this is not going back together. Ideally these would all get marked and put back exactly where they come from. You' Have to do that. Actually, you have to do it.

Uh, if, especially with the connecting rods because these are what's known as a cracked Rod When they assemble these, they actually Forge this as one piece and then break the rod and then bolt it back together. So each individual Rod crack is a unique pattern and cannot be duplicated. Uh, Furthermore, you cannot switch a cap from one rod to another. Rod because they just won't match up because of the crack.

One more 13 on this side of the block skirt. Pull this last one out. Now this thing. this engine has a rear cover on it.

I don't know if I've got to pull that rear cover off to get this crank out or not. I'm going to try to avoid doing that if I can. If I can't then I can't and it is what it is. Uh, up front, we do have one more our timing chain to remove one more tensioner right here and then, uh, we should be able to get this chain off and walk this crank up and out.

Okay, we've got one more application of the torch. 30 bits. Let's get this guy crack loose. Unclicks good.

The last 10 tensioner in the series of multiple tensioners get of you need that? Yep, that was an error. It flung oil all over my leg. That was stupid and this thing should slide right off. Okay, that loses our our chains and sprockets.

More pry bar needed. Let's see if I can't get this stupid little plate off. There we go R You that's the housing for the rear crankshaft seal. Now there's nothing holding in this crank.

Let's go ahead and lift this guy up and out. Going to be a two-handed operation CU Crankshafts are, uh, not lightweight. Straight up there she goes. Got her to the bench.

all right. Back over at the workbench. I Do not see any massive visible defects in the Uh in the crank shaft itself other than some metal pieces here. don't know what that's from.

and the crank looks good. It's got another bearing s to it, that reluctor wheel seal area for the rear. M Got our counter weights. Okay, another bearing.

they like to get stuck to the surface that they mate to. Okay, well, the crankshaft is not the cause of the failure. I Don't know what made this engine blow up other than it must have had some coolant get into it into that cylinder and then it blew up from there. Uh, we couldn't tell through the inspection ports on either side.

it's still full of metal. Oh, that's interesting. Look at here. It has some diesel technology built into it.

It has piston oil squirters. See those guys, There's oil that runs through this block under pressure and it squirts through these little nozzles onto the bottom of the Pistons in order to cool them off. I Did not realize this engine had that feature. Yep, that's it she's stripped down to.

Bare Bones There's nothing left to remove. Uh. Unfortunately, our autopsy did not give us more information that we already didn't know the engine was blown up. Uh, and it has left with only speculation.

and I can again only theorize that uh, it got a hold of some kind of coolant or water inside of that cylinder, bent the rod, then the rod fatigued and it cracked and then eventually the rod broke. That's really all that I've got. uh for this particular situation. and I suppose that's all that I've got for this video.

So having said all that guys, I'm going to go ahead and close this video out right now. I Will do such things as always by thanking each and every one of you guys guys for watching this video. I Certainly hope you enjoyed this video. If you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below.

Uh, if you would like to see other videos like this video, um, you're probably not going to find it on this channel. but if you go over to the I do Cars YouTube channel. uh, that's what Eric does. He owns a salvage yard in the great state of Missouri and when he has engines that are blowed up, if they are of any interest to the audience, he will do autopsies on them to see, uh, see what killed them.

So if you want to see more autopsies again, just go check out. Eric Uh again, do not forget to tap that like button before you go anywhere and most importantly, have yourselves fantastic day. See you guys later. See you in the next video! Thanks for watching End of Engine End of Chrysler End of Pentar End of transmission.