Foreign everybody. Good day to you! Welcome back! We are inside of a 2020 Chevrolet Silverado 3500 It's a four-wheel drive. It's got the L5p66 Duramax It's got 72 158 miles on the odometer and it also has a box of performance parts. Actually, many boxes of performance parts over there on the ground.

So this is the third performance oriented video on this particular. Duramax Silverado In the first video actually the first two videos, we took care of the diesel intake and turbocharger, hot and cold side pipes. We replace the intake with the banks Ram Air high flow intake and filter and we replaced the turbine Hot Side outlet and the intake manifold Inlet pipes from the intercooler. So we changed out the pipe from the turbo to the intercooler, then from the intercooler up to the manifold.

So in this video, since we have already completed the intake side we're going to, you pay a little bit of attention to the exhaust side of the airflow system on this. uh, on this particular Duramax truck. So I need to get this thing kind of nosed up on the rack, some get it ready to lift up in the air. We're going to get it all the way up on the as high as we can go down below.

We're gonna pull off the factory exhaust components, not deleting any emissions equipment. It's going to be a DPF back system. so we're probably going to pull the muffler, the over axle pipe, and the tailpipe. that's all getting replaced.

So right now we're just trying to nudge this thing as far forward as I can get it. and according to our cameras, we're Incredibly Close right here. I Think it'll turn red. the the haptic seats are vibrating telling me we're getting close.

So I think we're about as far as we can get. Let's go ahead and hop out real quick and do a visual inspection on how far forward we are. Then we'll set the rack, then we'll lift it up and then we'll get to work on that uh performance exhaust system. So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video opening.

Z Hood Oh look who that guy is. Oh yeah, we're cutting it pretty close here. What do we got? Like one hand? Yeah, about one hand's worth of space. I'd say that's probably good.

See how our left arms are gonna do? those are gonna reach? Yep. I think we're good here. Let's go ahead and shut this unit down. get it racked up and uh, we'll get to work reaching in and engine system power down.

Okay I Have made a grave error and judgment and this truck does not fit on this lift. So I moved this truck off of this lift and put it back over onto the big lift that way I could put a smaller car on that lift. So I had to move this thing over the lift. arms were not going to contact the frame in the right areas.

so uh, that has been rectified. Let's go ahead and get this thing up in the air and we will do that with the green subscribe button moving on up Silverado 3500 all the way up while the lift is on its way up. I Just wanted to take a moment to inform and thank you guys on the last video on this truck. I Had a promotion code to Bankspower.com for 15 off for the first 25 orders and you guys fulfilled the 25 orders within the first day of the video being posted.

because I had more work to do and the code had expired on the first day. Banks.com gave me a second discount code for this video. If anybody would like the second chance at the 15 off, just use the code monster Allcaps at Bankspower.com for a 15 discount on your entire order. And yes, I Do make a commission Now let's get back to the video.

Well, maybe not all the way up. I Think that's pretty good that way. I can get under there with the rolly chair and work overhead on that exhaust. So let's hit the uh, the down lever here.

Very snowy. We're gonna set these arms down on the locks. There we go. A little sketchy I always hate sending them down.

there. We go, You go. I'm at both sides on the locks. Let's go down below and start disassembling our exhaust.

actually. wait, wait I'm putting the exhaust up from the packaging first. Let's do that. Going to need to clear some space on the table here, so let's move the banks electronicals over here to that, uh, that side.

and then we can put the exhaust stuff on this table right here. And now we're clear. We didn't roll in. so I'm usually not one for unboxings, but we get to use the big knife.

That's no knife. This is a knife. It's actually a box opener. It's not really a knife, not a weapon.

It's a tool for cutting boxes. Let me get in here. Styrofoam. There's the goods All right.

We have some plants, very large clamps. This is a five inch exhaust, isn't it? Yep, that's a five inch stand. corrected. I Thought it was four inch.

I was wrong. Okay, we got a tailpipe, gotta have the tip and big old pieces of hardware. Let's get this guy unpacked. Nice and shiny in there.

Look at that. five inches of banks power diesel exhaust. Tip: I Like it. Okay, let's get back to the truck, get this thing disassembled, and then get this new unit pre-installed Roll them back over.

So one of the first things we need to do real quick is make sure that this monster exhaust system is going to fit properly because they've got some short bed versions and long bed versions. and I want to make sure this is all going to go in correctly and we're going to use the mounts to reference it. So if we look how these hangers are set up versus the new ones, it appears that this is going to go over the axle just fine. All the connections for our sensors are in position here, so I believe this is the correct unit.

Let's go ahead and work on disassembly. What we need to do is disconnect here here and up there. Remove All Those sensors to tuck those away off to the side. Then we need to saw this pipe off right here with the Sawzall push these uh, these hangers off of the rubber mounts and then we can remove this unit.

So we'll start with that. and I Don't anticipate any issues with these uh, these connectors here. but since this thing does appear to be loaded with like Georgia Clay or some kind of clayder and these parts are expensive, I don't Uh, I don't really want to risk any kind of damage here, so let's give it a little bit of lube and break all that stuff. dude.

I Believe we're gonna need a 17 millimeter and a 22. unclick please. Yeah, there we go. Okay, that one's gonna come out no problem.

This one here. that's good too. I Believe that's a tube for a pressure sensor so it can detect the pressure in front of the diesel particulate filter that this guy right here to our right. So it's got a tube here going to a sensor that detects Pressure in the back and there's another similar tube on the front of this DPF And what that does is if we can take a before and after pressure, the ECM can hypothesize how much soot has accumulated in the particulate filter and once it has enough so it can initiate the regen process, clean the filter out and then your filter is.

Uh, it's in good shape. In theory, that's how they're supposed to work. They don't always work that way, but that's how it's supposed to work, sir. let's spin this guy off.

This is a temperature probe so it knows the temperature of the exhaust, leaving the particulate filter all right. Moving in a little closer and looking left, we're gonna get that that sensor removed right here in the back of this pipe as well. Let's just get in there with a wrench. It's a 24, not a 22.

I was mistaken. Crack that guy loose. This is the PM or particulate matter sensor. A little crusty just from the dirt.

though. it's not rust crust, it's just dirt crust. There we go. Turn floor leverage for more turning a flangy strength was insufficient.

There we go now. I'm gonna have to make sure to pre-twist these wires to go back in. That way when they thread in, there will not be a Twist. If I just put them in straight and then tighten them, then they'll tighten them.

They will have a Twist in the opposite direction and that's not what we're looking for. See the lubricant on these hangers and then we'll press these hangers out of uh or off the metal and start to drop this thing down. It's two up here and I think there's one more. Yeah, it looks like just one more out here in the back.

See you up there. way up in that hole? Is that a squirt? Okay, now it's time for the fun part. Let's take a Sawzall to a very expensive truck. What I'm gonna do is hold this pipe back in position again and we're just gonna kind of eyeball where the cut should be.

So I'm thinking right about there is good. Yeah, that's plenty of space. Yep, we'll cut it right there if we have to cut it shorter. I can.

but I can't cut it longer. Okay, loud noises, ear protection on headphone warning and turn your volume down. We're going full full speed with the Sawzall here. 90 degree angle, right in.

Almost got it. Okay, she's through. So now let's go ahead and uh, work on pulling out these uh, these hangers right here. So I can't get that guy on there.

What this tool is going to do is push the metal part through the rubber hanger and leave the hanger in place. real nice. Nifty Device here. Much easier than a pry bar, especially if you pre-lubricate it.

They can be a little harder to do with no lube on, but if you Lube those up, they pop right right out there. We go. Okay, let's go over here back to our other side and get this next one removed. and now when I do that, this pipe is going to want to fall down.

so I need to keep a hand over it so it doesn't fall and hit me in the Noggin Here we go that dangle down some and now we can go out back and get that third hanger here. I Think I can probably reach it through, maybe over top of the tire here. let's go do that. Oh yeah, yeah, right here.

That's perfect. Squeeze that guy right on through. Come on, that's a tougher one. I Say a little more.

Come here. There we go and then up and over. You know, on the factory trucks if you wish to, uh, replace that particulate filter, you have to actually drop the axle down because you can't get the filter out or you can't get this pipe out over the axle, you have to drop the axle down and squeeze the thing out. When you could have just made it bolt on right here and that would have been, uh, no problem.

You know, since we have this thing cut off, we have a rare opportunity to see the internals of a diesel particulate filter and not much to see in there. It's just a honeycomb kind of filter element, similar to a catalytic converter. The difference is is this filter will actually clog up with soot from the diesel and then at some point once the sensors indicate that this filter is full, the engine will begin to inject diesel fuel Downstream of all of the fuel system and I think our Downstream hydrocarbon injector is that guy right there. What it'll do is it will inject diesel Downstream and it will cook off all the soot inside of that filter element and then clean the filter out So it's uh, it's not a fuel saving measure, it's a it visibly pollutes less soot out of the tailpipe measure so no rolling coal.

Okay, first pipe coming in and I'm just going to take this opportunity to slide the hangers in right now so I don't have to hold the weight I think I can get away with that. If not, then I'll just do my job twice not worry about it. Okay, hangers are on So now I need to get all this business here lined up and slide this thing over and back. It's gonna take a lot of sliding here and I may need to take the hangers back down.

I Think let me go to the back side and kind of give it a push I have to slide this over probably I'm thinking maybe like two inches. Yeah, see what it does? There we go. It did something and yeah, it slid right over? just like we want. So now we're too far back because these guys don't align.

So I need to go forward again or rearward again. rather because I need to align all of my sensors with their bungs that are welded into the system here. Yep, it's starting to slide. Dude, a little more so close.

I bet that's good. Okay, all right, let's give these threads some TLC right here. Wipe them down to ensure that there's no dirt in there. Look at this guy threaded in that was good and our temperature probe.

that one's coming in. Next, let's wipe that down to make sure there's no lubricant on it. Ew. look at that.

look at that gross. There was dirt in there, a bunch of crust and Matic let's get this guy in position here and tighten down. Okay, that's good. Those two are all set.

Let's get some torque on them. Fix there. we go. So far, so good.

Okay, so here's I think what we're gonna do. You guys come back over here in this direction and I'm gonna go around to the other side of the wheel and then fit that tailpipe into position here. All right. looking back down our leaf spring, that's the end of our pipe that we just installed I'm Gonna Roll around the back here and we're gonna get this tailpipe up in position and fit that on and then slide the hanger over.

Maybe I Gotta do the hanger first. Ew I'm eating dirt. Gross? Yeah here. I Know how to do this, what we're gonna do I Need to take that other hanger off now.

let's try something different. I Need to get this hanger. Oh, on the car side, for the vehicle side, the frame side. We'll slide it over and around that.

then. oh fail I Need to get my clamp on you. hang on, back it up, back it up, bag it all the way up. You need to get one of the clamps over there so we'll flip this guy around and then push that hanger back over the rod that's hanging off the frame.

after it gets some lube in it. Line her up, push it in there. Beautiful. Okay, we're getting close to the home stretch.

We're about to listen to this thing run again and see if we get a good tone tone change on our exhaust here. Let's get our last sensor screwed in and torque down. See me twisting it left? Now we can thread it and you see the twist coming out of the cable up here. It's okay if it's got one or two turns of a Twist but you don't want to have it binding up and twisting and looping in on itself.

24 mil hammer. Thank you. Foreign that one's torqued. It's good to go.

One clamp right there in position and we neglected this clamp right here. which is a little consequence. We can get it. What I need to do is take the clamp and we'll just, uh, disassemble it slightly.

Okay, Need tools? It's a pinch lock nut. See the little indentations on it right there here. All we need to do is squeeze the clamp, unnut, the nut. is that a squeeze like so washer and then the nut.

Bread's Red Thread Got it? Beautiful. Okay, so now that's in position, tighten it down a little bit. So with regards to where these things point, a lot of folks will just kind of leave them wherever I like to hide them so you can't see them from the outside. So if we were to turn this like so I think that definitely hides it from the outside view.

See that I Think that looks a lot better going around to our inside just checking clearance to make sure this isn't sticking out where it can interfere with the drive shaft and it is not. So let's go ahead and tighten this guy down. All right. A little more neutral drop.

That's good. Okay, so this thing's tight that is now secured. Let's go back and uh. reclamp the rest of our clamps.

Okay, you're reaching on up. Tighten this guy down. See clearance is a little tight here. See that.

so we need to angle this away. We'll take that loose again. We're going to angle it away some and kind of rotate it and then we'll tighten it down again. Reverse neutral drop.

Turn there just like so forward. Neutral drop. We need to send that a little harder with the impact. I Feel like it didn't get enough torque? See you later.

Send it. Now it did and it still has Motion in it. Now it's tight. good for good measure.

All right, let's get out of here Now it's time for the best part. Just the tip. Let's grab our clamp and let's see how I want to step this clamp up. probably with the clamp part towards the top so you can't see it.

And we've got our big five inch tip here. Thanks! Logo points up and it's swoops back just like so. and we're looking for about an inch of clearance between the Plastics and the body molds and all that good stuff. As per the instructions, let's get our clamp over top right there.

just kind of Wiggle This guy in. okay, how we looking so far. we're bottomed out this little lip right inside of here. That pipe is bottomed out so all we need to do is hold this in position right here and then tighten down that clamp and this pipe is going to be good to go.

Yep, right there. Looks good. Okay, everything is in position the way we want it. Let's get this clamp clamp down.

Foreign, click, Solid. install. Very good. I Like it.

All right guys. Let's let her down. Fire it up. see how she sounds Okay, we return to our green subscribe button.

that one right there. Let's get this thing up and off the locks, moving up. good lock release and then down slowly down and you watch both sides to make sure one of the locks did not hang up because if it hangs up, then your car will come down sideways and then fall off the rack. that's not good down on the ground.

That's good enough. I Think right there. Let's go ahead, hit the key, restart the engine and see how this exhaust right here sounds. Let's get our fingerprints off so they don't get cooked on with some heat.

dirt. Goodbye truck dirt. Get rid of that too. There we go.

Nice and shiny. No. I did not use the same dirty side of the towel to buff this I flipped it over. You guys didn't see that I can see the comments now scratching the brand new Chrome with that Georgia Clay That's not what I did I Would never do that ever, ever, ever, ever ever ever ever.

All right restocking's the engine. let's see how she sounds I like it nice and shiny sounded good. This operation on our exhaust is complete. So so far in the package we've got a ram air intake, we've got upgraded oversized charge air cooler tubes, and then we've got a diesel particulate filter system exhaust back with a nice shiny five inch cap.

And again, for some naysayers, if you think that pipe doesn't do anything, just go to Bankspower.com and check their website. Thanks! Does Dyno testing on every single component that they sell and that thing does show an improvement in flow over the factory restrictive. Uh, three and a half to four inch tube. I Think that's a three and a half so you know what? Since we're on the rack and we still have some time in this video, let's go ahead and get this thing back up in the air.

And I'm going to pull off that rear diff cover so we can change it out with this. uh performance. Ram Air Cooling Thanks Shift covers. So moving back up.

Yeah, not a lot of things in one video. That's what we're doing today. Uh, one more clip and this would be good. It's high enough down on the locks.

Settled. Good to go. All right. Let's go fetch the oil drain.

we'll grab the Amsoil We'll grab some tools and we're gonna pop this cover off of here and get this thing removed and replaced with the new unit. All right. let us get this oil drain position down here under our differential and pull out these bolts. Let the fluid spill.

Actually I Think this might have a drain. It does have a drain down there. see that on the bottom? So let's pull the drain. Uh, let the fluid spill and then we'll throw the cover.

Some of them do not have drains, but the Chevys do. It's like a bonus. So what we're going to need: 3 8 Ratchet and come down here and pull that plug out. And then we'll pull these bolts out.

cover. Let's see. Get that guy in there on your pickage. There we go.

Let It Ride Very nice. Save that for later. And I think we need, uh, it's like a 13 to pop those bolts out. It's pretty good.

Okay, extendo socket, wobble extension in position here. Let's get these guys disconnected. Uh, it's not a oh, that's a 14. That's what I thought.

All right, let's try again with the right socket man. I Grabbed the other 14. I have two of these. Come on.

So seriously, not kidding. Look 14 and this one right here is also a 14. both of these are 14. All right with the 13.

Hey, I got it all right? Let's get these guys out. You can see when a 77 000 mile differential looks like as well. lots of exposure. Two nuts on this bracket.

we have to pull that bracket Up and Away stash that back there. Oh, no slippage. I Need a deep well that socket bottomed out? That's fine. I can get one.

That's another bracket for brake line action, so we'll slide that right back there. A few more to go. Last one there we go. Okay, oh, it came right at us.

see that did not expect that to happen. But all right I'll take that. I wasn't even looking I was looking down. but anyway, differential is clean, nice and shiny in there.

No damage to any of the teeth. That all looks good. Yeah, this thing's in great shape. Okay I See no cause for concern.

Well see the clean off this surface right here. Get rid of some of this dust that fell in, rinse, it all out, wipe it down, and then we'll get that new cover set up and in position here just in case. I Don't need a piece of sand floating around this differential carrying it to Pieces Since the drain holes out and since we're upgrading the oil with some uh, fully synthesized ANS oil, we're just going to rinse all this old nasty out so it does not contaminate our nice new oil. there we go.

Get in there nice and see black. Thank you. All right that's pretty good. Just in time we're running out.

All righty. back over here at the workbench area. We've got the diff cover in position. Well, not in position, it's just kind of laying here but the diff covers out.

We need to prep this thing to go back in. So first things first. we need to take a look and notice our very nice quality stainless steel. Hardware This is going to replace all the bolts that came out of this diff cover earlier and we can see here we've got a sight glass that is going to go I think in that hole right there.

that's also. it's either our fill. no it's not. Look, we've got our fill plug up here at the top so that's just our sight glass.

We've got a hole in it here in case you want to install a differential temperature sensor and it then on the bottom side here we have a plug that also serves as a drain plug. Oh and look, it's got Banks laser and get engraved laser etched into the front of it. It's always the details. That's what really matters, doubles into details.

so they say. So let's put that guy in. Get that thing tight. We don't need this, uh, this drain plug anymore or right now 12 millimeter wrench that should seal the deal here.

I'm also taking care to not scrape the Finish on this unit. We've got some torque action click a little more. There we go okay and our sight glass. that's a 24 millimeter.

It has an O-ring to seal it so we do not need to install any sealant. So let me go grab a socket and we'll make this thing tight. Then we can put in our plug for that sensor. You can see this plug already comes with gravity with some sealant on it so I don't have to add any extra okay 24 mil socket on an extension.

there's our sight glass. We're going to flip this over in a moment and get to the best part. One of the best parts, rather, one of the most considerate parts of engineering regarding this entire cover. and that's actually the seal package.

that's good. a little bit more there we go. And a plug plug. Where's that plug? there? she is.

So let's get this guy in place right here. and I think that's a Torx 30. it's actually not a Torx it's a hex, but I prefer torx bits because they fit a little better and they don't get stuck. So let's get this little plug tight right here and we can flip this bad boy over and we'll get the giant o-ring seal in position.

Make sure there's no dirt and debris in here. Looks good. I See nothing Here is our big o-ring Inspecting this to make sure that's not corn or nicked and we're looking good. So what we must do is fit this o-ring into this machined Groove in the back of this cover and that is going to be our ceiling surface against the rear of the differential.

Just like so just run it around. We may find that it's a little too long when we get to the end and if that's the case, we can reposition and kind of squeeze this together. Some inside of the groove. Do not cut this to make it fit better.

it will leak if you try to cut it. This is what I'm talking about. See that we've got like an extra inch right here. so all I need to do is just keep running this down and as I move down the line here and reposition it, we can start to take up some of that Slack pushing it in, pushing it in.

See, we've got. We're down to like maybe 3 8 of an inch of slack now. Okay, gasket's in position. Let's go ahead open up our Hardware We'll grab a couple of the bolts here, head over to the truck, wipe down our ceiling surface one more time, and then get this cover up and into position.

Okay, one more white on our surface. a little bit inside so it can't spill back over. It's all looking good. Now take our cover set up and over and into position right here.

Just like so, we'll get a couple of the bolts in to hold the weight, Get on there, that's going to maintain alignment while we thread the remaining bolts instead. Okay, baby impact coming in. bottom these bolts out. That way our o-ring stays in position.

There's one on each side. So far now, we can get all the rest of these Fasteners in the holes lined up. We'll thread them down and then torque them here. We go top one in, get on there, one more up high.

it's not wanting to line Up. there, We go on the side. Get that guy started. one down at the bottom.

Foreign. So far, so good. Okay, now that they're all threaded in, cluding some good shape. okay, test fit is complete.

Now it's time to do it all over again because we need to get some thread Locker on these threads for the bolts. Cam Kit So we're gonna use it. Get on there please. And then we can proceed to torque these at a final torque level as soon as these are all thread locked.

Got to do this fast! I Don't want that thread Locker to dry up and affect our Torx Okay, finalize, recheck. Torque is all good. Hooray! Let's go ahead and back it up a little bit. Get our drain plug installed and then we can refill this differential with some synthetic.

Amsoil Let's just screw that guy in right there on the bottom. I Know you guys can't see not much to see. It's just a plug that screws in. It is of little consequence for viewing pleasure.

Probably better off to watch this ratchet it's been around and click the inch. There we go. Okay, that thing is now installed. Let's go ahead and get the upper plug screwed out or unscrewed or removed or removed and unscrewed.

and then we can fill with our fluid. There we go. All right. We've got our bag of gear oil here.

We're just going to refill this guy until we see it show up on our Uh on our sight glass there. So I'm dumping my nozzle in or turning it in rather and I just need to squeeze this bag and it will, uh, transfer the fluid into the differential. Far so good. These bags are much easier than the hard the hard bottles.

The fluid used to come in because it's hard to fit a bottle into this tiny enclosed area right here which you can fit a bag. Oh, the lights dying. All right. I Found the rest of it.

It was inside of the cab in a box filling it back up. This is Uh bag number three third: Court So you can't look up spec because this diff cover has a larger internal volume than the factory cover so this actually adds total capacity to the different system. It's also designed in a way to allow better fluid circulation so you don't end up slamming your fluid into the back of their cover on a flat surface and actually creating heat in your fluid. It's designed to allow it to flow naturally as the differential gear spins and circulate it.

That way it can dispense heat over all that extra surface area and keep the diff cool and it keeps the fluid cool which helps it last longer because cool fluid does not break down. Oh cool air fluid. Either way, What? I'm trying to say here is a lot of engineering. went into this particular device and it does work because: I have it in my truck and I tow heavy with it in my truck.

and I've got a temp gauge on it that's on the model equipped in my truck and all of it operates as designed. You take a look see, we've got fluid on our side glass. Just give that differential a turn here, allow it to, uh, pick up and coat everything inside, make sure our fluid level doesn't fall. and I think that's pretty good right there.

Right at the halfway point. that's good to go. Let's put our cap back in and uh, where is that cat? Yeah, we'll put the plug back in and go and let this thing down. Okay, fluid's full.

We've got our fill cap coming in. It's also laser engraved with the bank's logo on it. Pretty cool. I Like it.

So let's go ahead and thread this guy on. that's a 14 millimeter wrench that's going to be used for that guy. Let's get her threaded in here and then I can take a look around real quick for some leaks. make sure that there's no uh, seeping around that O-ring which there shouldn't be unless it folded and I installed it improperly which can happen inadvertently thick.

Okay, that guy's tight. Here we go. This project is shaping up quite nicely, so let's take a peek on our back side here. If there is a leak, we should see it very quickly and I see nothing that's not leaking from here that's leaking from what drift right there.

so that's in good shape up here. On the back side, it's all sealed. Very good. Alrighty guys, that thing's all set that is.

One Banks Ram Air Cover installed. Oh, here's the uh, let me move that light real quick. This is the feature I was telling you about earlier how it's got these little Scoops these ears that hang out right here and these are designed to capture some airflow as you're driving and it will redirect it up and into these cooling fins. Uh, thanks.

Has done testing on rear axles and they find that this is an airflow. Dead Zone Back here. So when this thing's moving down the road, there's minimal airflow here, so the factory cover cannot really dissipate heat very well because there's no air moving to uh to carry that heat away. But with these little fins right here and all these extra cooling fins here, there's a whole lot of space and a whole lot of redirected airflow to help bring that temperature down.

Furthermore, this thing carries a lifetime guarantee. so if you were to go off-roading and run into something and then break one of these things off, Banks will replace the entire cover cover free of charge. Additionally, they have integrated weak spots built into the casting, so if you do hit something, it's more likely to just break off the ear and not break the cover and that will maintain the Seal of your cover. So if you hit something, you won't dump out of all of your fluid.

I Mean it's possible to break it enough to dump all your fluid out, but it's designed to prevent breaking of the rear end or the cover so it'll crack off like right here and right here and then here and here you can see the little Notch taken out of it. that little relief that is a uh, that's a stress relief. That way you break this piece off instead of breaking the whole cover. Very good thought of or well thought of design.

I Don't think you'd ever really need it unless you uh You Really Got High Centered on something like a giant rock and I think the truck like this shouldn't be doing that kind of off-road action, but you never know I mean you'd be riding down the road and two by four hits it. For all you know, there's all kinds of stuff that can happen regardless. That thing carries a lifetime warranty against breakages, so if it busts off, they'll send you a new one if that happens. I'll give you another diff cover.

that's quality and good customer service and you know I can't believe I have to say this. but I'm going to uh no I did not engineer this entire scenario with this truck to put all this stuff on there in order to sell you guys Banks products Uh, this guy owned this truck, this private owner. he bought all this stuff because he felt like it and he brought it to me because he felt like it. and I'm putting all this Bank stuff on this truck because I feel like it so no, you don't have to buy it.

Um no, you don't have to like it. No, you don't have to use it. but a lot of us do, including myself and this guy right here. So um I don't know what to tell you.

This is just what we're doing today. Stations on this truck and there's a couple more mods coming into play that is going to include a couple data monitoring devices and a tuner. So what I'd like to do before we get to any of that other stuff and to test out what we've already done? that's 40 bucks. Let's go ahead and get this thing backed out of the shop.

We're gonna take it on a little test drive and see how she performs what is in the way. Hmm, there's some kind of a conflict here with this problem here. Let's climb back up into this bad unit right here. Restarting the engine, take it out on the road key left in vehicle I Know it's right here.

restocking Zadora Max Solid. You know one of the coolest Parts about these trucks is the rear view mirror. So well we can see you. so you see how we've got a regular rear view mirror.

Watch this. We flip it down and it's a screen with a camera out back so there is no reflection. It's actually a rear view facing screen. Pretty cool.

Yeah, it's got some more screens. Also, we've got an overhead view and then a rear view that also uses the steering angle sensor to project the vehicle's path while backing up. I don't necessarily care for those. it's a pretty common stuff.

but I tend to ignore those because some of the aftermarket ones have led me to believe that they are inaccurate. But and I'm old school I like uh, I like to adjust my mirrors and I like to look around and use my head and my eyes. not so much rely on the screens like so many before or after me. It's actually after somebody after me because uh, the kids like the screens I don't care for them.

Okay, traffic's clear. we're good to go. Let's head out up and over the bridge and get into some throttle on this thing. see how she rides? Holy smokes this thing has got us and get up and go.

Oh buddy. If it did not have track control, that thing would have just left rubber everywhere. So much torque. right hand turn.

let's go over the bridge and give it full beans. Check out that. Really nice. Silverado right there.

Yep. Towing an F-350 Dually Just like it should be. Awesome Detour ahead. What is this detour? can I still go over the bridge? yeah it says split well I got a truck I'll drive where I want? Okay, we're going full steam ahead over the bridge here.

That's maximum load. kill the AC so we can hear it. Just sounds really good. Oh yeah, maximum boost she's riding Very nice.

good Power Band Turbo felt great too I Do believe this is all set but fear not, there will be. um one more addition on this particular truck. I have all the electronics uh and the the Tutor module uh as well as the bank's pedal. Monster uh that is going to uh to go into this truck so if you are more interested in some of the other bank's Performance Products uh just uh, keep the lookout for that video or you can check for similar videos uh that feature my 2007 Chevrolet Silverado that's the dually.

it's the gray one. makes about a thousand horsepower. not really. but I wish either way.

I'm gonna have to say that one for a future date because it is end of day I Spend plenty of time on this one and we've seen uh, seen a lot of performance upgrades so far in this particular video. so let's go ahead and cut this one short. I'll look forward to seeing you guys in the next one. Let me know what you think about this video in the comment section down below.

Do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there. And most importantly, don't forget to have yourselves a fantastic day. See you guys later in the video in the transmission into Chevrolet into Banks Power Products Go to Bankspower.com Use the promo code 15 off first 25 orders, endless shame and sell promotion in the video. There's that cat eye again Lurkin Silverado Be lurking.

Nice truck.