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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to
Hello there everybody! Good day to you and welcome back! Glad you guys are here I know I'm super glad to be here. A little under the weather today and energy level is kind of low. uh, but I'm just gonna fake it till I make it. So uh, what we're working on today is actually not a car.
We're on a kind of a side quest right here. uh my uh. my neighbor was, uh, attempting to do a wheel bearing on this, uh, front spindle. I think this is for like a Hyundai or something.
Anyway, they couldn't get the uh, the inner or I'm sorry the outer race of this hub bearing pressed out. I've got a new one right here and we can see it's got an inner race. Uh, there's the seal. there's our outer race and then there's a magnet in here somewhere that's supposed to pick up on the wheel speed sensor right here.
Okay, so what we need to do is get all this stuff cleaned up. We can see right here where they, uh, they kind of chopped that out and air hammered it to get the inner race off of this. Hub So I need to clean up all those birds and a little bit of nasty stuff right there. press out this outer race and clean that up because that's full of rust as well and then get this new bearing pressed in, then press uh, this hub assembly into our new bearing.
So that's kind of the side project. a little side quest thing that we're gonna do real quick. Um I think I can get this thing out of here without any damage and I think I can do it without an air hammer I'm going to use the uh the press and we're going to set this up and try to press out this big race right here and then uh, you know, get the new one reassembled after we clean up the shaft right there. So stay tuned because this right here is going to be a very good video opening.
Z Hood Break rotor There was a great Rudder Okay, so what we're gonna do is roll the press out from its parking space over here and I really like that this press has wheels on it. That was an afterthought. I don't think it came with wheels. these were a Harbor Freight Edition So we're gonna maneuver this guy right on over here so we can use it next to our table and uh, get this bearing and hub and spindle slash knuckle assembly set up in here.
We'll get it pressed in, we'll get it pressed out not in that order and see if I can't get this. uh, this assembly back to my uh, my guy. Hey, look at that classic Hazard Fry style. this Jack's leaking everywhere.
How about That is what it is? I'll fill it up full of motor oil and then it'll stop leaking so no big deal. You need any of that okey doke. So first things first. I need to raise up.
Uh, the Press surface. uh on this press assembly or press unit a little bit higher to the next. Notch That way, there's less space between the bottom of the Jack and the top of the the surface right here. so all we need to do is pick this up.
We're gonna pull the pin. Can you guys see we're gonna pull the pin? move it up to the next hole right here, set it down, and then switch sides. raise the other pin up and I might go up one more hole I Don't know yet. see how this fits in here real quick? Gonna be a little tough to get this thing set up evenly without uh, making the pieces fly apart and or breaking my spindle assembly right here. see how this is gonna go? I think I can do it? Yeah, right in there. Well, I can either I can get it started like this? Yeah. I need to get the get that bearing pressed out and get it started. Let's get it broken free so that should be good for now.
It will bottom out once it reaches uh once it reaches the top of these plates right here. but uh I think once I get it broken free and moving. I Uh I can reposition these plates and then press it out the rest of the way. All right.
Pulling an adapter cone out of the ball joint kit. Actually, there's two ball jump kits, there's a press kit, and then there's the master adapter kit. We're gonna use this guy right here and that's going to sit on that little lip which is part of the bearing. So we're going to put that right there and we need to put a big flat piece on it.
like So get it centered and then we'll press down on the jack on the adapters and it's going to press that bearing out. So let's scoop this back some, get it lined up with the hole right here. That looks good. Let's get started and see what happens.
Alrighty, so let's tighten down our little uh little screw on the jack here that's the release valve and start to Jack this thing down until it makes contact. Bright lights right about? How are we looking here about to make contact? scoop this thing back so it stays centered there. We go right there. All right.
So now let's take the Jack handle here and get that Jack operated coming down. Let's see if it's gonna work or if it's not I Think we're gonna do it? Come on out. Oh, we're getting some pressure on this now. Is it gonna go? Oh there we go.
It moved. I Think it moved. Yep, she's moving. Ah, that is what I want.
Yep, moving right on down beautifully. We're gonna do this Jack the Jack until that inner race bottoms out on uh on these two pieces of C-channel Steel and then I'll have to reposition the knuckle, we'll keep going down. and I think yep, we're there. That's all she wrote here.
Let's go ahead and back off. our adjuster Jack's gonna go up. Let's put our cones out and inspect what has happened here so we can see there's some nice shiny new exposed steel right there. That means that we were able to press that inner race down.
Look at there, it's now flush with the uh, the bottom uh or the back side rather of the steering knuckle. So I think I can either just spread these out some and reposition and re-shim them or find a large cone to put underneath of it. and I think as it sits like that, actually looks fairly level right there. I Don't know I Don't know if that's gonna work? Nope. Try it gotcha! See that move through the Matrix Alrighty, so this is kind of what I've come up with so far. Uh, on top of that guy is looking fairly level. We can see that there's plenty of space down here for that bearing race to pop out and neither one of these pieces of sea channel are in the way. I Had to shim this little guy up with this piece of angle iron and one of the other adapters for the ball joint kit and I think this configuration will be sufficient to continue the Press So let's set our cone back in there and actually let's do this.
That one's a little thicker. They serve as a good spacer. You can re-center it again right there so we get down pressure on this. This is going to remain stable.
I think it's got three points of contact here here and over there. That one's a little sketchy, but I think we uh, we should be good here. So re-tightening our a little relief valve tighten that. thank you and let's give it some down action here and see what happens.
Come on down, you're getting contact now dude and we are. We're rocking and rolling. Awesome! So right here that's the bottom of the spindle and that right there is the uh, the inner race starting to press through so you're moving, coming down nice and easy. it's almost out.
I'm gonna reach in from the bottom and catch this so it doesn't all fly apart. Wow there she is. It's our adapter cone and the outer race right here. Very good.
So now pull that guy back out. let's relieved, release the jack. There she goes. So what we need to do? Take our spindle out of here.
put that guy over and our new bearing is going to press in just like so see that I Believe this is the magnet strip that is going to give the wheel speed sensor. it's uh, its position. Let's double check on that. That's the hole for the wheel speed sensor.
right there. So the sensor protrudes through that hole there and it's going to overhang past the edge of this bearing. and as that bearing turns, it'll pick up the magnet inside and that's how the signal is produced. I'm fairly certain it's going to be this side and not that side.
I Don't know I didn't take it apart. it's a frustrating ish. So now what we can do is I'm going to use my old bearing race to press in the new bearing. So we reconfigure to press, put that guy flat and then this knuckle in bearing will go in like so then you can just put some spaces on that and press her down that one there and let's move it over centered.
That one fits. Very good. Same thing here with the jack. Let's close our valve, crank it down, and then press it in.
Contact is made. That's not very good contact. it's we're way off center. Look at that.
I'm not okay I Don't want to press this thing sideways. redo. It's got to go a little farther back. tighten you back up again.
scoot that back a couple millimeters. re-center everybody. it's better. Oh, that wasn't too far. Did I know? Now that's good. Good contact. Okay, here's our bar. Oh I'm off center again.
look at that. I failed to notice redo again. Round three Let It Up tighten it down Center it again Center it again. Center it again There we go.
Okay, she's moving Alrighty, look at that going right in and we're going to press this until it bottoms out all the way in and we'll know from the feedback on the jack when it bottoms out a few. Yeah, there's a chance. I'm going to semi-press this other race back into the knuckle. but if that's the case, I've got the I got methods to get it out.
We'll hit it with hammers. Works every time, sixty percent of the time. Okay, we're bottomed out. cannot get any more any more motion out of it.
So bar out, take our little valve and loosen that. let it ride. Let's get our goodies back here. Oh good.
it didn't press in. See that Now let's check the back side and it's looking flush I Hope I didn't do this the wrong way and our little magnets in here I'm going to be really upset if this is wrong because I'll have to do it again. Um, oh yep, looky there I am right I see it. It says right here ABS Sensor side right there I Hope you guys can see that very fine print.
ABS Sensor side: it's laser engraved. We have a snap ring that has to go into this because we need something to retain this bearing when we go to press in the hub gravity when we go to press the Hub in from the other side. So we'll get this thing kind of set up and we'll pry driver it into position here. see how I'm going to do this? push it in.
we'll get behind it with a little pocket screwdriver if I can and just kind of pry on it till it collapses. I That's not gonna work. Nope Nope Nope nope. Hammer Here we need to go over here to the other bench.
You're gonna need more working space. We need a larger pry driver I think because I need to collapse this uh, this unit right here and just work it down. just gonna have to force it in. Walk that guy in a Hammer Hammer Hammer Hammer Hammer there's one what's this and that has snapped into place and I have failed because I have covered up the hole for the wheel speed sensor I did not realize what I did So loving my job so much, we're gonna do it again in case you missed it the first time.
we're doing it again a second time. you see that thing. That's why we wear safety glasses. Let's try again.
In the proper orientation here that goes there. Get down in there please there. pry it back, try it back, push it down, work it in hammer. Thank you.
There we go. Crisis averted. That guy's in. Good to go.
Okay, now we need to pay attention to the hub a little bit. We can see that the inner race and the old bearing was cut out with like a little chop saw and then it was hammered on some which put a bunch of uh Nicks and scratches and valleys and gouges and whatnot in the surface of this. Hub Um, the thing's not totally destroyed, but it would make it difficult to press in. So what we need to do here is clean that up and make it smooth again. and I will do that with some mildly abrasive Ziz wheel pads. We're just going to go over this thing and wheel this away until it knocks off all those raised areas. That way we can actually fit that thing into the race. so we'll use a little angle diagram of the deal.
All right. So I realized that this isn't going to look like it's going to be very effective because this is just like a like a Brillo pad dishwasher scrubby type of device. but it will with enough high speed action. Uh, knock off all these ridges right here.
and once I polish that smooth, this thing will press in. Uh, to the inner race. No problem. So this makes a lot of noises foreign.
how's that looking? Feels nice and smooth. Yeah, all those raised areas are knocked off. Okay, let's go ahead, get this thing back on the press and we will press these two units together and then this operation will be complete. So again, we'll use some of the ball joint adapters that seems to fit perfectly over that inner race and it's not contacting the seal.
So put that guy in and put our big spacer in. We're gonna do this upside down that way I Can see a little better and one more time we'll run the Jack down, tighten up the valves right here. We're gonna run down this Jack and it is going to do the final press by pushing this whole spindle assembly down onto the uh the Uh The Hub We just have to make sure that like this area right here. this guy, the little weird pieces that are sticking out of the spindle do not or knuckle rather do not contact the bottom of the press.
Here you cannot have any side load happening because if we have side load it's not going to work. Let's make it centered. It's good, looks good to me. Let's go ahead and send it putting down quite nicely in fact.
Smooth Operator So basically we're just pressing on an inner race of that bearing and the rest of these uh, wrists of all that steel is just along for the ride. We're going to run this down until it bottoms out at which point the operation will be a success as long as the bearing does not bind and hopefully I don't mess this up. there we go. Jack is getting a little stiff.
It means we are applying pressure that's not going anywhere. That's good release. Let's see what we've got. Does it work? Does it spin? Yes, it does.
Look at that, she turns. This operation is a success. So one quick thing: I'd like to mention that the mechanism that prevents this from coming apart while driving is actually going to be the axle that splines through there. The axle is going to contact this uh, inner race of the bearing and it's going to contact of course the outer Hub Uh on the Hub and as you tighten down that axle nut, it applies pressure to that bearing race, locking the thing in position. So once it's all assembled, uh, it's a it's a permanent situation. so this project is complete. I'm going to run it next door and deliver this spindle and close this video out naturally. I Will do such things as always by thanking each and every one of you guys for watching this video.
I Certainly hope you enjoyed this short video. If you did enjoy this video, please feel free to let me know about that in the comments section down below. Do not forget to tap that like button while you're down there. and most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day! See you guys later into Spindle into Bearing, press in the video in a transmission.
I wish you were located in MIami Florida. I would take my cars to you.
Rainman !
The engineering tolerances needed to make parts that mate like that is mind blowing, but there you are in a garage with a leaky press do de do no problem.
I think we got trolled on the jack release !
Pays dividends to help your neighbor and we enjoyed the video also. Thanks . Your shop is looking great!
i think its a european car, since the hub looks like it uses wheel bolts… everywhere else uses studs..
Reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee
Usually the jack handle has a groove in one end to tighten/loosen the release valve. If not, you should be able to easily add a groove.
I like ya Ray, but sometimes ya just talk soooo much!
If you had a large cone from the ball joint set, you could lube the inside and use it as a compressor on the bijezuz ring. Or, you could have used a heavy duty screw type hose clamp (or even a piston ring compressor) to squeeze it down to go in the hole.
Hey Ray! You should weld a flat tip screw driver in an 11 o'clock position to the pressure relief bolt in the closed position on your press. It would give you a grab handle to open and closed the valve and put the wrench away.
I like to weld a bead around the inside of the race. When the weld cools it shrinks the race a tiny bit and make removal significantly easier.
Is it just me or does the bottle jack on that press sound like a rubber chicken.
Hazard fraud hahaha I'm telling ave you stealing his lines 🤣
Good Day Ray
i love you dude, but read check the instructions before pressing! 😀
Nice simple job Ray. Probably done at 50 of these. Sometime they don't want to come apart!
More power tools!!!!
I have same bearing press harborfreight saved my ass a million times I've done alot of ford bearings with that
I feel for ya brother. I've been to Tampa myself, pretty much the same. Hang tough!
Im-pressive! or De-pressive… You pressed the point in repressing the hub back together…
I woudl liket to have watched further video's if the clip had remained in the incorrect location for the wheel speed sensor. :). Replacment wheel speed sensor after replacment to no avail. What on earth is wrong with this car?
Does the jack handle not have a little slot cut in the end to operate the valve? or is Ray just trolling me by using pliers…..
If your ever unsure which side is magnet ring use a metal paper clip to touch the side
Someone needs to catch the audio of the press return moan to use as a ringtone!🤩
Pipe nipple of various sizes are handy with a press.
You have an amazing collection of tools.
Another excellent Video… trying to find the same articulated puller you used a few videos back, I need the same one
Hey Ray – doesn’t the Jack handle for your hydraulic press have a provision (squeezed down on end) to open and close the valve so you don’t have to keep grabbing the pliers?
Enjoyable
I'm glad you got the press back
You said neighbor & I thought you were doing a favor for someone that lived in a house next to your home. 🙂
Do you have an account level tool with the bubble?
P.S. I'm not saying you don't know what you're doing I think you're an very outstanding mechanic. Keep up the great videos.
You can't buff out the tolerance man that part is junk and you should have bought a new one
On your press, you notice a cross-bar angle iron between the base legs. Sooner or later, it will happen that you stick an axle into this press, and find that the end of the axle contacts this cross bar… so consider, some day, when you have "nothing else to do", relocate the cross bar about 3" off center, and add another, matching angle, on other side, about same offset from center, and this will provide you the little additional height you need.. plus, having your press on wheels, this new gap, between the spreaders, will allow use of the added wheel height. Does your press cylinder handle not have a pair of slots to operate the bottle valve? If not (handle was replaced with iron pipe, for instance), just grind a pair of slots into handle end to match the valve ears.
Keep the old bearing race, of course, in your new press tool box, and, as mentioned below, slice a narrow slot into the race to allow diameter to reduce slightly in bearing bores that don't have relief diameters.
Something I have noticed in new bearings is that the mfgr provides very little grease, so I usually use a seal pick to pop off the bearing seal plastic ring, pack the thing completely with real, new, fresh grease, then replace the seal… it just snaps in or out… no biggie, but will definitely extend the service life of the bearing.
Oh yeah, cleaning the dirty bearing bore in knuckle with Scotchbrite, then applying a mere wipe of grease, will aid bearing pressing. And when removing and installing, once pressure begins to increase, a minimal jar on the press ram (or table, or part, or arbor) will often immediately get the pressure point moving. Use a hard mallet, not steel, to bump the thing.
i have a harbor freight 10 ton press. if you have small wheels on it does that put 10 tons of downward force on the wheels?just asking
nice that they engraved it for the sensor side, even nicer you put it in right the 1st time 😉
No matter how many times you call that an inner race it's still going to be an outer race.
You should heat the bearing with a heat lamp the bearing will drop on to the hub, Heat casting part in toaster oven bearing and hub will drop in.
Tell your neighbor that he has absolutely no business working on cars after that stunt he pulled on that hub
Another clickbait what a national hero oh it moved hooray 😂😂😂😂imo nothing to brag about it just a poxy wheel bearing we do these day in and day out
To say some of your videos are really great fun to watch even from my professional point of view but some believe shouldn’t worth an effort even being recorded
Anyway no offence it’s only my subjective opinion
All the best and take care
Did you berate the neighbor for not just changing out the knuckle and hub as an assembly? So many shops seem to prefer that method.
Great job!!
bro you should grind a slit in the mf jack pole lmao
when its both sides its so much easier sto use the old outer race lol i love this
my 1996 4runner spindle do that
Misc suggestion.
I changed my hydraulic press to add wheels like you did, but i also added in a wooden platform across the bottom. Now i have a place to store all the accessories you need for the press, plus i can store heavy things i do not use often. Super convenient when you are space limited and your press tools and widgets are right at hand when you need them.
Should have cleaned off the rust before installing new bearings .😕
And like a good neighbor, Rainman is there!
Last wheel bearing change I did I got bearing/spindle pre assembled with new parts price point was just a little higher but labor cost and reliability made it a WIN!
The most effective way of removing the inner race is to apply a solid arc weld around the inner circumference.
I hope you will be safe with the hurricane going over Florida
Replacing the o ring on the jack will allow you to release the jack by hand as it was designed.
Hey Ray wishing you and your family luck. Looks like there is a good chance that the tropical storm will become a hurricane before hitting Flordia. I will be sending prayers to the people in Flordia that is in the path of the possible huricane.
Great job Ray.
Nothing like door to door service. And knowing Ray, he just did a favor for a next door neighbor and didn’t ask for payment.
I hope you told this guy no guarantee on the hub?
To people doing press in bearings. Pressing the new bearing in with the old bearing is always pretty risky. If you manage to wedge it there half ways, it's gonna be a real nightmare to remove. Ray was pretty lucky here. On some older cars the machining is tight all the way, but many new cars tend to make the bearing fit loosely at the beginning as seen on this video.
Hi Ray, It just goes to show that dismantling shouldn't be done violently
Thanks for the surprise video. You usually post in your morning which is my evening, I was pleasantly surprised to see a new video this morning. Hoping there will also be a new one at the usual time this evening.
You need to investigate the art of thermal fitting bearings and races. It is a lot easier
Another pressing engagement successfully carried out by Ray.😁
👍🇺🇸😎
No wheel lug studs?
Hey Ray! I see you are getting prepared for hurricane Idalia!?
that's why those r so cheap
.can't afford to put a complete wheel assembly on as o e peice..
Could've used your pocket pry bar to see what side was the magnet 😂
I went to a scrap yard and picked up various diameters of black pipe for these jobs, much easier and equalizes the pressures,, ten to fifteen inches long, had to machine a couple to size, stack them inside of each other, for storage.
mig weld around the race it will fall out.
After hrs (:
Nice mobile press set up.
Ray needs to get a two-sided honing stone to remove those high spots. They are about 1x 2×6 inch long, one coarse side and one fine side.
Yup
Run a bead of weld around the old race and let it cool. The race will fall out.
At least this customer admitted they were the ones to ding stuff up, instead of the mysterious "Another Shop".
❤🎉Where does Ray get those Pocket drivers from? Probably Snap-on truck. I need to re-up.
Weld on the inside of race to shinqh the race and it will fall out.
looks like vw part had to do similar part and was a pain to setup in press.
Torch and a press
Awesome to see the business has a 5 star rating ⭐️ keep up the excellent work ray your killin it 💪🏻
I bought an accord with bad bearing. Took knuckle out. Had shop press in new bearing. Was $125? Could have got a knuckle and used bearing for $35? I sold car in 1 month so maybe that would have been easier
Ray? Please get a lathe.
Well now I was imPRESSED with this video.
Where did the dust shield tin go? It usually gets installed after the bearing, but before the hub… lightened for racing?;)
Howdy Ray! Get a 4×4" sheet of "Magnetic Field Viewing Film" to see where the magnetic fields are.
They're very handy if you're working w/bearings, electric coils, Hall effect triggers, etc…
Hold on, am I missing something here. Where are the wheel studs at, every wheel hub I ever replaced had wheel studs on them.
There was no need to remove the retaining circlip, just push it around until the gap lines up with the speed sensor hole.
Fyi… If you have a truck ball joint removal kit… Use the rings from that kit as your base shim to press into or press the new parts in… OR… Go to your local hardware store and get a set of different size black pipe couplings up to 6" dia meters… ALSO… Wack the piece with a hammer when you have all the pressure from the press on the part… The vibration will make sure the part is seated and that is not "window locked" or "stuck" on some rust or metal blurbs…
I dunno how I feel about the use of that broken snap ring. When that bearing goes bad the next person is gonna have a helluva time getting it out.
Are the studs for the lug nuts supposed to press in frm the back side first before you re-assemble? Looked like there was no clearance after it was all put together.
Junkyard Hub is better
Any length video from you is a good video, Ray. Be well and feel better soon.
Dont new wheel studs go in before the outer hub gets pressed in?
I'm just curious, how is he going to get the lug nut studs in. It looks like the spindle covered the holes on the back side.
turn it the other way
I remember when that press had a longer center post under the jack channel ! ! !