Hello everybody, Good day to you and welcome back! Glad you guys are here I Know I am super glad to be here. This is a 2004 I think Chevrolet Impala LTZ that's the high trim package. This thing is mint for its age. This car is a very nice example with look at that.

55,985 miles on the odometer. Good to go Okay customers. dates. Uh, several things about this particular vehicle.

Look at that CD holder up there. Yep, definitely a time capsule. Uh, this car has been laid up and parked for about 3 or 4 years. Uh, they've got a Litany of complaints on it.

Uh, a lot of vibrations while driving. No check engine lights or anything like that. I think there might be some leaks I Heard some rumors of some sounds. uh, maybe some squeals or bumps or or squeals or clicking noises or knocking sounds over bumps.

Things of that nature. Uh, what we're going to do is, uh, go ahead and evaluate this with a test drive and we're going to bring it in the shop, do an inspection. uh, similar to uh, the video earlier this week where we did a fullon inspection, but I'm not going to record that at length. Uh, we're going to go through and highlight the key bullet points of this car and, uh, see what their primary, uh, concern should be.

We're going to start with safety items uh, then leaks and then maintenance items down from there. So uh, what we want to do. The goal here is to be able to get this car, uh, safe and roadworthy, and in a good, uh, reliable condition. So let's get this thing backed on out.

We're going to take out on the rowad, get it up to speed, hit the bridge, apply some brakes, do some steering. Maneuvers Things of that nature. We're just going to overall evaluate the uh operating condition of this particular vehicle, and then go from there. So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video uping.

Z Hood Oh look who that guy is. You may have noticed the long sleeve shirt today. It's cold outside here in sunny. Florida We've got a nice Breezy 76, uh, moderate humidity.

It was a little chilly last night. we were in the low 50s. Look at that thing I think that's here for me. Interesting, that's going to need some TLC if that's one of mine for sure I Hope it's one of mine and we're not going left cuz there's a train there.

Let's hook right and get on out of here. All right riding along. I'm not applying any brakes but I do hear some squealy sounds uh, coming from what sounds to me like the brakes or somewhere at the wheels. Uh, it could be something rubbing on like the backing plate could be worn out brake pads.

uh, could be debris, could be rust build up. but I am hearing some noises on this side of the vehicle and on that side of the vehicle accelerating up the bridge to 88 mph hour. Not really. we don't need to go 88 but we have some, uh, some good strong acceleration.

The transmission feels good. Uh, let's get uh, let's Crest the bridge here and we'll apply some braking force and we've got a vibe in the steering wheel so we do have some brake vibrations that may be uh, something to or may have something to do with uh, that sound we were discussing earlier. So I do feel some Vibes here. the steering feels good, suspension suspension feels good I don't hear any noises in the steering system.

Okay, we have not seen any uh warning indicators show up while we were driving. So I think uh, the OBD2 system has not detected any faults and what was I thinking look the Train's still here H it's moving I think I'll just wait. A lot of folks like like to uh they pull up to the train and then just turn around and go the other way. Then they go over the bridge but by the time you make that track over the bridge and then make the left hand turn plus the other left to get back on this road, the trains are usually cleared out so it's kind of a non-issue Hey look, you guys see it I See you see him right there.

Right there you're he's hiding out under the bridge I can see you Okay, the train has given way. we may now proceeded back to the place of work and that van up there stinks smoking out. Uh, it's burning oil choing out a bunch of smoke. It's nasty.

All right. let's go ahead and nose this thing right on into the shop. We'll get it racked up in the middle rack and then uh, we'll proceed to uh, see what's going on with those brakes and we're going to check out the uh suspension and look for some leaks and things that that nature there. we go right there.

that's good center of gravity I Like it. parking is the auto ping down. All righty. let's get our hood popped here.

We'll take a look down below under the Bonnet first and then uh, we'll get her racked up and lifted up and then go from there. and by the way, I don't know what decade my crane branium is in, but this thing is a 2013, not a 2003 or 4. uh I don't know what I was thinking um maybe I read it wrong, maybe I Comm it to memory wrong or I'm a decade off for some odd reason? who knows. But what I do know is we have a direct injection V6 I think this is a 3.5 L 36 Yeah, that's 36 3.6 L Okay, I was wondering.

For some reason it didn't compute I was thinking this was the uh old 3800 or 3400 Series 3 that had the intake manifold leaks but this, uh, this engine does not have that H that's not okay A Little bit of corrosion, not horrible. Okay looking good looking good here. Belts and hoses. that stuff looks decent.

No leaks okay. Roger Dodger All right, let's get this thing racked up. We'll pick her up in the air and see what it's looking like from down below. Oak Doy the rack has been set up.

Let's go ahead. smash our black subscribe button, get this thing raised up in the air and we'll take a peek down below. see what she's looking like. moving on up all the way up.

Keep her going, Keep her going there we go. Maximum Ride Hype achieved. Let's get down here and take a scander and see what's going on. We'll set her down on the locks for Safety Action There we go.

Vehicle is safe. Let's take a peek at what we have going on here again. It's kind of just just as clean down here as it is. Uh, up top.

Definitely do need a brake job look at there. Yeah, we can see that inboard pad right there. It's getting super thin. We'll pull the wheels off and confirm that that pad's looking a little.

Warn out, let's see same thing on that side. We'll come back to that in a moment. Right now, we're in our visual inspection stage or we're looking for things that have been neglected or things that are broken, not correct, etc. etc.

checking for way bar link breakages that all looks good. Leaks nothing here. This does not go here. I Found something I Found an exhaust hanger that's not hanging.

Wonder if they backed it into like a curb or something like that. Pushed the Mufflers forward and it caused that to uh to come apart. Not a huge deal. I Can put it back look a toe bar.

Somebody toes with a Chevrolet impal. That's a new one. Ah, look here, there's our Evap canister up there. A lot of space in this wheel.

Well, okay. moving on. Bushings look good. Little bit of surface rust on things here and there, but nothing major.

that's very good. Okay, all right, well let's pull the wheels to see what that friction material looks like. Very nice and we're back to Impact Gun cam. Pull these wheels off we go Sinko you guys go there.

Let's see what we get in here. H Survey says we need more lumens Light Light light I Choose that one Here we go. All right. So we are looking at that.

Yepy look at that. 4 or 5 mm front pads on the inboard side. Uh, outboard side's a little bit thicker. Yeah, we can see him through the grooves there.

It's a little thicker on that one. How do our control arm bushings look these things like to tear that one's in good shape. Okay, all right, let's go pull the other side off next and take a peek, returning to Impact Gun Cam. So I Also noticed that the rake fluid in this car is aged and weathered.

It has a green tint to it, which indicates corroded copper perhaps from the lines. uh and or contamination. Put that right there. Yeah, it's got this green tint to it and there's a bunch of black sediment.

uh in the master Cy CER Oh, these pads? Right here. Those are super thin. Look at that one. 2 or 3 mm on that inboard and outboard is pretty thick like uh, before? I Make a recommendation.

I'm going to go ahead and pull off these calipers. Uh I Want to check and make sure that the slide pins are not seized. What can happen is if these slide pins will seize up uh, as braking pressure is applied to the caliper, the caliper is supposed to float on those pins and move. Therefore, it will apply pressure to the outboard and the inboard pad evenly.

And if those pins are seized and this caliper can't move, it will only apply pressure on that inboard pad. and what that can cause is run out in the rotors because it's only getting a load on one side of it and it can also cause uh, like I Like what we can see here, a regular wear and eventually this thing will get stuck and it will bind up and it will wear that pad so far down that it'll go metal to metal and then the pad can actually fall out. uh of the caliper and that's not good. So what we're going to do.

Grab some some wrenches, spin these 13 mm bolts off. we're going to pull this caliper and we're just going to check those slide pins to make sure they're not locked up. Okay, let's get this thing turned. It's a little warm from our braking uh, events earlier.

Okay, that pin's not stuck I Don't think that one is either. We saw those uh, those thing slide in and out. Come here. caliper, hang that up there.

look at that. It's A. it's a very, very worn out brake pad. We have our metal backing plate right here and then this very thin area here that is the friction material.

and if we compare it to this other one, see, you have a massive uneven wear. This one's like three or four times the thickness of, uh, yeah, about three times the thickness of the in board pad. It's not super uncommon for it to occur, but it can often suggest that there's a an issue. Nobody noticed, but it appears these slide pins are good.

A Little bit of grease on those bad boys and uh, they should be good to go. Let's go run around to the other side and uh, check the uh left front. that's Dri side front so I'll go ahead and spin this guy around right here. Good okay guns coming with us circum navigating the Impala LTZ got that one from here caliper.

give it some wiggle action hanging up high right here on the strut. Stay right there for now. and and this side is not as drastic as that right front. we can see there is a bit of a difference in the pad thickness is here.

yeah, about twice as much. Let's check our uh slide pins here. Let's see what we got going on. I Don't think they're seized.

That one's starting to get some corrosion on it. It's okay. The grease is just all nasty and dried up and cooked away. No worries.

Yeah, same thing here on that bottom one. All right. All right, let's check out the rear is real fast. like we're looking like 7 8 mm on that outboard.

uh, inboard pad is similar. see the groove in the middle of it right in there. That's 7 or8 mm. We're good on that one moving around.

same thing here. Okay, so this is going to be a fairly simplistic, uh repair for their vibrations and noises. We're going to slap some, uh, some brake pads on there, make sure these uh calipers compressed, and then I think we're going to do something about that nasty fluid. Let's uh, let's go ahead and let this thing down and I'll show you what I was talking about with that the fluid Condition it's not the best I don't like it Impala Coming down all the way down.

All right. Stop that right there. Let's move on around. right here to our brake master cylinder.

Pop the cap and take a look at that fluid condition down there. There's uh, stuff floating in it. It's black and opaque with a green tint to it. The fluid is not okay.

We're going to recommend a replacement of that uh, brake hydraulic system fluid during the Uh brake system repair. Here we go all righty. We are back at the driver side front I'm going to go ahead and continue disassembly. Uh, what we're going to do here is wipe off this old grease on our slide pins and we're going to regrease these and then put them back and then, uh.

after that, go ahead and pull this caliper bracket off to remove the rotor. It is time. Okay A little bit of purple Lube coming in here. Little light coat on the whole surface.

not too much. Put that guy back in. make sure you put the dust boot back over the little Ridge here. otherwise it'll get water intrusion and rust the thing out.

A little bit more lubricant on that one. Put that guy in. Good to go. Now we can pull this bracket off and get rid of our caliper.

Need a 15 mm? see if this little gun's got the beans to That's the wrong millimeter? Hang on here. Wrong. Actually, that's kind of wrong on two accounts. I Think cuz I can't get, can't get that guy in there to engage that Fastener So we'll just break it Loose manually with a wrench on.

Oh, that's tight. Seriously, no way. Hang on. let's get some more on.

It Come on, Feel like I'm going to pull the car off the rack that's tight. broke it Loose Second one. All right. Good to go.

Let's get the impact out. All right, so it's loose I Can't get the gun in here. but I can get this extension in here so we'll hit it with the 15 wobble extension. Nice.

Come here, get the bottom one. Okay, here comes our bracket. Set that aside. Let's pull the rotor.

next. we've got a Torx 30 set screw right there holding the rotor to the bearing face for the Hub face. Pull that guy out and oh good. We don't have to bash it out with a hammer.

That's nice. Woo! look at that. That's a little crust dematic in there. Check that out.

All types of corrosion and rust that's not okay. Let's get rid of that little Hub polishing device. it goes on the end of the gun. I Used it yesterday on a uh drum brake job.

Make it nice and shiny. You know it's funny I Had this out yesterday for that brake job. There's a a theme in automotive where we say things come in waves or in threes and this right here is a classic example of that. Yesterday's car was a full inspection with recommendations which turned into repairs and again, this car is a full inspection with recommendation.

Uh, that turned into repairs. Oh yeah, I Didn't even tell you guys what we were going to do yet. Drop the ball. As I mentioned, this car had been sitting and laid up for a couple of years and it's evident due to some of the rust and corrosions, age seems to be working against this car more than Mileage does.

So what we're going to do is fix these uh mechanical defects that are staring at us in the face. like the rust and the corrosion and the vibrations and whatnot. I Also found a nail in one of the tires. We're going to send that to the tire shop, but we're going to get this car are caught up on some maintenance items.

We're going to do the fluid exchanges on it, especially the brake fluid. a little bit of the transmission fluid or a lot of bit 16 ports. Actually, we're going to do a trans service on it, the brake, the brake fluid and a spill and fill on the coolant. There we go.

So the theme remains similar. The only difference between yesterday's video and today's is this one happens to be front disc and what we had done yesterday was rear drum and I believe that was actually the uh, the first ever rear drum breake job that I had done on the channel and it actually never made it to this channel cu the video was so long I had to split it into two pieces and so the first half was posted on this channel and then the second half I posted it at the same time. uh but on the second channel so it was part one and part two. That way it wouldn't discourage people uh, from wanting to watch it.

and for the people that did want to watch like a 2hour long video which is what it ended up being. uh, they had the ability to do such things and let's get this turned. we'll do the same thing on this side. let's pull our uh, our slide pins out Lube them up, break this thing loose and then uh, we'll clean this Hub up I should have Parts here by the time we're done with that so we shall see.

So I Learned my lesson from trying to break those guys loose with uh, the wrench I'm going to use the ratchet wrench. we just hang that right there. The ratchet is longer and it will gain me additional leverages. Let's clean this guy off.

Get her Lube lubricated right there little bit on the tip. Aha back in the hole, give it a push in a Twist that'll seat the seal. Got our top one. Give her the good old wipey down.

Oh yeah, we were just talking about uh, that extra long inspection on the Yaris was a Toyota Yurus is what it was, but the extra long in inspection SL two-part video I will uh if you guys missed it or would like to go back I will leave links to it down inside of this video's description in the pin comment uh and at the in screen at the very end of this video and that'll take you to uh I guess I'll list the part one and the part two. uh and again, the part two is on the second Channel which is called Rainman Ray off duty Uh, the idea of that channel was to, uh, be able to post things that don't exactly fit the format of this channel uh so as to not disrupt the algorithm uh or uh, disrupt uh, viewers expectations. So uh, I decided once upon a time to create a secondary channel to uh, give me more Liberty uh regarding content creation and uh, a lot of folks don't know about it. so if you guys have not seen the second channel, uh, please feel free to check out Rainman Ray Off Duty for bonus content and uh, some super secret hidden part two videos.

There's a lot going on in there I don't talk about it much and I don't promote it much, but uh you. it's a fun place to be if you'd like to see more content. And with that, I conclude my moment of Shameless self-promotion Get rid of that. There we go.

Cool, All right. So we got our nuts off. Let's go ahead and spin that guy around right there. Torx 30 coming in, pull that guy out, set it aside and our rotor has achieved Freedom Woohoo meant to do that that This side is not as rusted as that other side was.

there we go. Little bit of spray action deify it some more nice and shiny. You know, while we're on the topic of this brake CL Brake Clean Spray Can business I Was reading some comments and folks were, uh, slightly disparaging me. uh, for the use of brake clean because when I'm done with the brake clean cans I tend to yell at them a lot and then Chuck them across the floor and that behavior was called childish and immature and unnecessary and potentially dangerous.

And you know you're right. Throwing, uh, potentially explosive inflammable containers across the shop into hardened metal objects or or concrete objects is not exactly conducive to the spirit of safety. But nobody said anything about this channel being safe. We're trying to have fun here.

so another, that's how we do that. No, seriously though, I mean it's all in good fun. And I assure you guys. I wouldn't throw a can of uh of compressed flammable liquids if uh I felt I was placing myself in some kind of a danger I I I Realize that some folks, uh, don't really find that to be entertaining, but some of us do.

and I also like to have a little bit of fun while I'm trying to work cuz this is a not exactly a fun atmosphere to be in all the time. A lot of times it's very high stress and if you can have some fun I think you should. Besides, if you think that's bad, you should see what happens when I get a hold of a propane tank. I Was trying to light some of this brush on fire and my math gas can caught on fire.

Not cool. I Really don't feel like getting blown up today. Come on. come on in danger.

Come on. Go out. Go out. go out Who? Now that one scared the crap out of me.

oh my. God burnt the hair off my hand and everything I think it's out. Okay, whoa. Okay, let's get away from that.

Things are working like clockwork today. Check this out! I have the brake pads and the brake rotors. They were delivered while we were over there throwing cans across the building. How about that? W Those are heavy.

All right here we go. You guys pick up this side truck these things on over. We'll get them unboxed. Look at here heater core for a Chevrolet that one sorry heater core I Need your space? We'll just put this on top of the evaporator core.

There you stay right there. See what we've got here? Power Stops: These are Evolution branded pads. Those are our shims for the bracket. We need that.

There's the pad set and let's take a peek at our roach tors I Know what to do. We can stab a hole in it. there. Power Stops coated rotors.

The coating on these is a rust preventative measure. See how they're painted. it's not really paint and the paint that's on the friction surface will well I call it paint. Even though I said it wasn't paint, the coating on the friction service will wear away.

uh when the pads contact it and apparently that's acceptable and this material does not uh, affect the function of the pads. I'm not sure how that works. It must be in the design or the chemical makeup of the coating, but that's how they come. So I guess that's uh, that's okay.

See about our pads here. What are we looking like? Nice and shiny I Like it look. it's a super brake setup. Quad brake pads.

All right? I guess Before I Go Full six-year-old immature on this situation. We should make a little bit of progress. So what I'm doing here is pulling off these, uh, the shims on the brackets and we can swap them out with a uh, a new set that came with the pads. Now when you do shims, you got to match them up with the replacement because sometimes the upper shim and the lower shim is different.

That's not the case here. A lot of folks don't even replace these shims and and you can get away with that too. Um I uh will leave shims alone or replace them on a Case by casee basis. Kind of.

However, I see fit and there's really no uh Rhyme or Reason to it unless uh, well, let me let me back up. I will leave the shims there if I replace the shims with new ones and the fitment is horrible or the Uh pads are binding or there's like a tab sticking out where it shouldn't be. You know, anything that causes some kind of interference or an issue will cause me to not replace the shims on, uh, any particular brake job for example, this one's being a little stubborn right now. There's got to be some buildup.

Yeah, there's there's something going on here. However, that is of no matter cuz we can ziz wheel that away. Loud noises. oh that was moderate noises.

wasn't too bad. All right, that fits much more better. Okay, so there is one caliper bracket. done.

Get this next one set up here. Yeah, a little bit of extra rust in there. This is the stuff Stuff that uh, causes brake pads to stick up. It's called rust jacking where the rust will build up in between two surfaces and create.

uh, it'll remove space, It'll create pressure on something and then it can actually seize components together. That's actually the primary purpose of of the shims is to keep uh, that buildup from from affecting or rusting out the Uh pads. By the way, using Ziz wheels on their Edge, it just absolutely ruins the uh, sanding bit. It wears it out super fast cuz these are designed to be run flat.

Not, uh, not on the side, but I'll do it that way. Anyway, let's see here. Slip that one in there. give it a push.

There we go, and the other side is still in the bag right about. Yeah, okay, that's looking good. Shims are in position now. Look here.

see this details. You see that little tab that's sticking up right there? We don't really need that to stick up, so I'm going to grab some needle noses and bend that down and it will help to secure this shim to the caliper bracket. We will employ some needle noses for that. Let's grab a hold of it.

Fold those, uh, little tabs back. It's not a super critical thing, but it can help to prevent that shim from walking left or right. cuz what could happen is as the car is driven. those shims can move if they're uh, if they're loose and they can poti potentially contact the rotor, causing a horrendous squeaking noise and that would be bad.

So we'll just bend those little tabs in that way. those shims are secured and locked into place ins side there and that one right there. There we go and that'll prevent those uh, those units from walking left or right Uno m. Sque Squeeze it, Bend it, squeeze it, bend it.

Time two a little bit over here. on that side, get on there needle nose there last one beamus okay, let's get this stuff reinstalled on the vehicle. Okay, let's take this guy. we need our pads to come with and the rotor that I just got super dirty.

Take that with us too, back to the vehicle. Onward, right on over. So what we can do. We're going to put this rotor on backwards cuz that's going to give me an opportunity to, uh, give a bit of spray right here, clean off any dust and dirt and whatever.

Or if I put fingerprints in it or embedded some grease little bit of spray on the inside, you can grab it, flip it, put it back on, and I'm taking care to line up our little set screw guy. uh, right there. now that that's in position, bring our screw in, clicks, tighten it down, little bit of spray gunzo another bracket's coming in. Let's get the 15 bolts started.

We run those guys down and then we'll hang our pads. Couple Ug duers here clicks and since it took a huge amount of torque to loosen those, it's uh, need to apply a huge amount of torque to tighten those well. maybe not a huge amount of torque, but we do need to step it up a little bit with a with a couple grunts here. There we go and a little bit here on the bottom one, still more.

There we go. All right. That guy is corked. Let's get our brake pads installed.

We've got the in board and an outboard and what you'll notice here is these have this little speler indicator on them so what we need to do is match that indicator up with the older pad both pads actually and we can see both pads have the indicator on the right hand side so it uh, doesn't matter which position that they go in, but on occasion you'll find some that have two indicators or one will be on one side and one will be on the other side. I Always like to match them up I'm not sure how relevant it is, whether they're matched up or not or how critical it is, but it's just something I like to do to, uh, make things even. So, let's get these guys in position here. Everything is a hammer including brake pads.

Let's get our outboard set up. Snap that guy in. now. we F our caliper compress the Pistons and then slide that caliper over our rotor and pads.

So here we have the caliper compressing tool. It uh consists of this rationing mechanism with two flat plates that are both threaded. one has leftand threads and one has rightand threads. And when you actuate the ratchet mechanism, it will lengthen.

It will overall lengthen and or shorten these little plates to uh, compress the Piston. So what we need to do is stick that guy in. Now we've got some extra space here. So I'm going to shim that out with one of the brake pads.

So we drop the pad in I Like to shim it On the Piston side. This is a dual piston caliper. We'll stick that guy in and then ratchet our tool. and that's going to create the pressure to compress those pistons and push them back into the bar of the caliper.

See how that works? Just keep ratcheting. I Have a link to these units. this tool tool down. Uh.

In this video's description, it's an Amazon link. So if you wish to purchase a set or a version of this Tool Uh, please feel free to use that link cuz if you do, I get paid a cut, commissioned, earned, and I will end my second moment of Shameless self-promotion Now this is all set up. Almost wiggle that in until it's flat. We're good there, That's good.

Let's get the bolts in, tighten these down, and then we can set up the other side now. I Did mention earlier I'm going to do a few other uh items repairs on this vehicle. Uh, one of which is going to be a serpantine belt and uh, we're going to do the fluid exchanges on it I I Don't think I'm going to record those. You guys have seen plenty of fluid exchanges on the channel so that part's going to be skipped.

We're just going to go through uh, this brake service repair right now. All right, little impact coming in. Again, that's 38 Milwaukee Those guys down. Good to go.

Let's move on over to the driver's side. Okay, so what we want to do is let's go ahead and turn our wheel the other direction. That way we can access all of our components easier from the other side. Turn that over.

Now we may start to navigate our Impala yet again good right about there. So I've taken the Liberty already of spraying off this rotor. Save us the uh, duplicate content so to speak. Again, coming in with the set screw you.

A lot of folks say you don't have to have those in there and you're right. you don't have to have those in there. However, it makes a for a much easier installation because the rotor thing is not flopping around and getting, uh, causing interference with the pads and things like that while you're trying to reassemble it. So there's really no reason to not put that screw back unless you had to drill the screw out or uh, cut it off or break it or something to get it apart.

cuz again, you get get a lot of rust and corrosion. Not something that uh I'm particularly concerned with here in Florida but it does happen. We get a lot of uh, transplants folks coming in bringing cars from uh, the Great White North that suffer exposure to brine and salt and things like that and that stuff rust out to nothing. so we do see some of that here.

but it's not like a regular everyday thing that was a wobble bit. Fail there we go. wrong direction clicks. Good little bit of extra torque here from the ratet little more bottom, one a little more.

Again, you got to make the sound that's immature friction material on its way in power stops just like the Uh, the rotors not sponsored. That was just the best deal for this particular application. Quality Parts They a decent price. that's why I chose it I Don't uh I don't stick to one brand of anything in particular I Like to shop for the best thing that's going to suit the Uh situation.

Now let's get our caliper compressed just like the other side. Where's my tool? Where'? It Go I Lost it. Ah, right in front of me. it's over here.

Goty. Okay, so we're going to spin those guys down and collapse it. like so drop in a brake pad for a shim. That also helps in case uh, one of these Pistons wants to compress easier than the other.

It can help to prevent the tool from walking in uh one and favoring the uh, the other the other piston. So it helps to, uh, make it even when we go to compress these guys. And just like the other side, you just ratchet it in compressing, compressing, compressing. When it bottoms out, we're good.

reverse take it. Loose pull our tool, pull the pad, throw it somewhere, grab, give her a flip, and get it set up right here. Wiggle that guy on. We make sure that the shims end up on the top side of the caliper and uh, on the bottom side as well.

If you get this shim caught down inside of here, it'll bend it all up and then it will contact the rotor and make noise. And that's not okay. but visually down below, that's good. Two bolts.

Let's get those guys lined up and threaded in. Beautiful! Two more hits with the 13. Those guys are inall. let's roll this machine up here.

I was uh, I was on the fence earlier about including this uh, this aspect of this job in the video because I have found uh, traditionally folks don't really care to watch fluid exchange services including brake fluid flushes and things of that nature. Uh, however, I'd like to make a complete and comprehensive video. so I'm just going to add this information to it. so we are going to go ahead and form the flush.

I'm not going to uh record the transmission service or the coolant service cuz I think that's a kind of Overkill But since this video is primarily about the brakes I figure there's really no reason to not uh, not include the brake service or the brake fluid. Service uh with uh with this video and with this repair, so we're just going to, we're going to go ahead and do that. Um, if you guys do not like the uh, the brake fluid services or don't care to see it, uh, feel free to click away right now and go watch something else. But if you've never seen such things before, uh I implore you to stay and maybe I can uh I teach you something about how we do the exchanges on the hydraulic brake system.

So uh I was actually ahead of myself I put the adapter cone on the master cylinder uh first and I I shouldn't have done that. What I would like to do is suction out all that old nasty fluid that is down in that Reservoir and then uh I can top it off with fresh clean fluid and then begin to uh, perform the exchange the uh uh. the way the exchange uh system works is we have this pressure vessel here. We're going to connect shop air to it to, uh, bring pressure up and it's already uh got about 11 PSI connected the hose.

What this will do is this is going to send pressurized fluid through this hose which is attached to the machine. It's going to pump it right into the master cylinder on the other side of this machine. It has a vacuum pump that that vacuum pump actuates the vacuum pose on the other side and it will suction fluid out. So as we install pressurized fluid into the reservoir, we can then go to each individual caliper, put the vacuum on it, and then suction out the fluid as the machine is simultaneously putting in new fluid.

Uh, thus creating a Uh a fluid exchange. So let's go ahead and get started. I'm going to turn the pump on and there's no pressurized fluid here yet because I have the this hose, the delivery hose disconnected, and the valve is closed. We're just doing the Uh vacuum suction section right now so we're going to re cover as much of that nasty fluid as we can.

It's going to be evacuated through the hose and it's going to end up being deposited into the tank, uh, down here at the bottom of the machine. And once that's done, yeah, we're running dry now. Okay, get rid of that. So what I'll do is I'll take one of my canisters of fluid I think I have an open one over here.

y just a little bit left in there. We can top this thing back off off with some fresh new fluid. That way, when we pump in the new fluid, it doesn't mix with all that old nasty stuff in there and it'll potentially cause, uh, cause me to have to use more fluid than necessary. So we're kind of starting to flush with a clean slate so to speak.

Fill that guy right on up. Yeah, look at how nasty that fluid is. Stuff floating around in it. It's all swirly looking debris and it's green.

See that that's the old stuff mixing in. So set this up, get our vacuum here. sucking some more of that out. That's probably good right there now.

I'll put the adapter unit on, turn it, lock that down and we can attach the delivery hose. This is the Pr pressure side going. Go ahead and attach that. Let's open up our valve and we're going to check for leaks right here.

This is a very leak prone area cuz this is, uh not normally a pressurized vessel. it's just a plastic. Reservoir But we are putting about what about 10 psi in it. Let's print that up.

Some fell down to 9. There we go. 1011 PSI Okay, so now we're going to take our vacuum hose. The pump is still running.

We're going to go to the wheel far farthest away from the master cylinder. so that's going to be the right rear. We're going to suction out the right rear until clean fluid comes out. Then we move to the left rear suction it until clean fluid comes out.

onto the right front suction again until clean fluid comes out, finishing off at the driver side front. So let's get around to the backside here and get started. Please forgive the loud noises the compressor is running because it's pumping air into that vacuum pump. And of course, the machine also makes its own set of noises.

So we're at our right rear caliper. Set that thing down. So more often than not, some folks will call this a uh, like a useless service or an upsell. They say it's unnecessary because the user's manuals watch that see the fluid.

The users manuals don't specify this type of uh of repair, but we have to think logically about this. Brake fluid is what's called hygroscopic. Meaning it will attract water to it and it is diluted in water. And as you know, water and heat do not mix very well Well, what happens in a braking system? It uses friction, so that friction is going to create heat which is then transferred into our caliper, which is then transferred into our fluid and that can break down that fluid.

Moreover, if there's moisture in it, it can actually cause that moisture to boil and go from a liquid to a gas. Well, we don't need a gas in our hydraulic system while we're trying to drive down a mountain. or if it's super hot outside and we're in trap traic. or we have, uh, an emergency stop that has to take place.

You know, none of that stuff really matters up until that one moment when it really really matters. And driving down a mountain, for example, that's the moment where it really matters. So yes, potentially it could be a useless repair and you might be able to run your brake fluid system with water in it for years and not have a problem. But I'm not going to drive down a mountain that way.

Let's pull this back some. Yep, so we can see vacuum's doing its thing and that fluid condition is still pretty gross. So we're going to plug this unit back in and we're going to let it suction for a while. I'll be back in a couple of minutes here since we're destined to spill some fluid somehow.

Some way, I'll put a pigm down right here. keep the floor nice and clean like you know I may waste a bunch of brake cleaner. but I won't use brake cleaner on the floors. That's a it's kind of a no, no.

All righty. couple minutes have gone by. Let's close our valve, disconnect the hose. We're going to crack this valve open again and we want to take a look at the condition of the fluid that's about to come out.

If it comes out clear, we're good and it is still not clear so we are not good, Come back in a minute. Let's go check the reservoir in the machine and make sure we're not running super low on fluid. It's not a really oh my belt's here. It's not a great idea to run this uh vessel out of, uh, out of fluid.

There's potential it could introduce air and if you pump in some air, we have to start the thing all over again because these hoses, uh also run through things like the ABS module and it's got all the lines up front coming down the master cylinder so there's a lot of places for air to collect and it would be uh, a cost. Oopsy if we pump air into the system, let's take a look here and we're getting pretty clear. I'll give it a maybe another minute or so. That's what we're looking for.

We want to go from that nasty black colored, contaminated, green, corroded whatever fluid to a, uh, a nice clear, brand new fluid. A few moments later, now, you'll notice that I'm actually closing this valve off before relieving the suction. Uh, there's a phenomenon where the machine can actually create, uh, a vacuum that is stronger than the pressure that is formed uh at the other side of the car. And additionally, there's all that resistance through the hoses and the modules and then the steel lines and the seals and the master cylinder, etc.

etc. where being this far away, we can create a vacuum. Uh, so what I'm getting at is when I take this vacuum. off since there's a potential pressure differential uh in the system.

Uh, it's uh, It's possible that the uh, the system here can expand potentially CU it was under vacuum and it can actually suck in some air through the uh, uh, the uh, the bleeder fitting there. So what I do is I close the bleeder and give it a second and then open it up again. we may see. Yep, see that there was air that came out just a little bubble real quick.

Anyway, this is a nice and brand new clean. This corner is good and what we have done here is we've evacuated all the bad fluid out of the uh, the caliper, the hose and the line and that uh, that circuit of the ABS pump all the way up to the master cylinder. Now the master probably still has some dirty fluid in it because this is just the rear side and they tend to have a divide inside of the reservoir so that Master is still contaminated with some fluid and uh, but we're going to, we get it all out of there once. Uh, once we complete this flat.

Okay, we're at the right rear. let's hang up our vacuum hose, keep that out of the way, pop our cap off right sh and then going crack that bleeder open right there. Let's take a look and see what that oil looks like. Yeah, see that all discolored and brown and green looking Nasty.

Yep. so vacuum applied and let's go ahead and run this one for a couple minutes. Returning for a progress check. Let's go ahead and close our valve.

pull the vacuum hose. let's give it a gravitas. Let's crack it open real quick. Like see what that fluid's looking like.

open and we have nice, nice clear, clean fluid coming through there. yo T Fall. Close it up. Oh, stuck there.

There we go. That one's good. So both rear calipers have been, uh, flushed out with the old fluid. All the lines and uh, those uh circuits on the ABS module have all been cleared out.

So let's move on around to the uh, the right front side. that's the next farthest away and we'll bust that one open and repeat the same procedure. Okay, coming in a little dark in here without my illuminators. Let's get, don't need that.

Let hang this unit up right there and our bleeder that's around the back side. Pop that off. Really throwing stuff across the shop. It must be uh, close to quitting time.

Let's break her open here. One word of caution on this type of service. Yeah, we got flow. Uh, you need to be aware that sometimes these bleeder screws are incredibly rusted and they can break off.

Or they can be so rusted where there's no way for fluid to flow and you could find yourself in a position that you can't get out of. Uh, for example, you sell a service to a customer that you cannot perform and that's not okay. Uh, same thing applies to replacing uh uh, the uh, the rubber brake lines. Make sure you can open your caliper bleeders before selling a brake line job because if you, uh, you can't get that thing to open up, then uh, you can't perform the service and the customer will not appreciate you coming back to them going.

Hey, by the way, we need to install calipers now. Also, cuz they're going to go I thought you just said it was a hose. What are you talking about? So don't ever don't ever, uh, just assume that those bleeders are going to work cuz it might bite you. All right? It's been about 3 minutes.

Let's close off this valve, pop the line, check the fluid nice and clear. That's pretty. All right. that one's good.

Close it back up and we have one more line to attend to and that's or one more caliper rather. And that's going to be the uh, the driver's side front. That's the loud side. So let's make this one quick cuz you're going to hear all kinds of ch ch ch ch ch chug noise is everywhere while we're trying to do this.

And although the Chugga chuggas are not horrible and nobody wants to listen to him for 20 minutes, right? Too many chuggers. Not enough. Chers Bust that guy open. Yep, we're flowing.

Plug it in. let it. There we go and looks like we're almost empty on our pressure vessel. So we're going to run this thing down from the uh, the wheel two Mark all the way down to the bottom of the four.

And once that's done, this, uh, service will be complete. All righty. I think we're all set. It's almost empty.

We actually ran a little farther down than I wanted to. So let's go ahead and seal this thing up. That was righty tidy, wasn't it? Sure. and we'll crack it open once more.

Check the fluid condition. Crystal Clear That's beautiful. Let's lock this down, reinstall our cap, get the hose out of here, hang that up where it belongs. And now we need to compress is on and go to shut off our vacuum, reduce the noise.

Now what we need to do is disconnect the airline and depressurize the Machine because this hose going into the car is still pressurized. So we hit the release button, drop down our pressure. There we go, going back around under the hood, close our valve, disconnect our line, and remove our adapter. Look at here.

no longer nasty. GR Ed Fluid It does have that green Hue to it, probably because of contaminants within the system. like within. uh, like sediment for example will build up in these reservoirs.

and there's there's almost nothing you can do about it. Uh, But we do have some extra fluid in one of these boxes. jugs. Words: Yeah.

I've got a a quarter quart in there. So what we can do just to help, uh, get the cleanest uh flid possible. On the way out is reconnect our hose and apply the vacuum to that. Reservoir Fire That back up vacuum is vacuuming and just the same way in which we started, you can suction that out there.

we go. Just going to run it till it, uh, sucks air. Okay, we're good here. Suck in air now.

take our leftovers and refill. We're going to go all the way up to the max fill line on the reservoir we're using. Max Because we have, we have brand new pads and rotors up front. It's a little too far and we also have very good pads and rotors in the rear.

Okay, we've reached the fill line. See it? The marks like right right there. so now we're full. Let's get the cap.

Where did my cap go? Cap man? Uh-oh did it fall? Is it on the machine? Is it in the drawer? Uh, well, that's not. Oh there it is. I See it. It was right in front of me, staring at me in the face.

Okay. and then I threw it on the ground. That's cool. Come on.

no way. it's in there somewhere. we're going to find it. Where are you? Alert Alert alert.

We got it there it is. I knew it was in there somewhere. Come here. Cap there.

Okay, Yay! back in business. So what we do. Now that our fluid level is correct, let put the cat back on there. All done mostly.

Let's clean off all of our nasty and our spillages. make that look nice and shiny. make it look like someone was here. see I did a good job I Cleaned.

See that? Let's hit all the uh, the spillages on our calipers while we're there while we're here. Or while that's there. You know what? I mean clean that up too. this one.

Yeah, I could probably spray water on it, but you know there's water in here too, so that's fine. Last one there all right. Good to go. So here's the deal.

I've got to do a coolant uh, drain and fill on this and I think I'm doing uh, might be doing power steering too I'm not sure. uh. anyway I've got a couple other fluid exchanges to do and then this car. uh I've got to take the wheels and then send them over to the tire shop so they could do a rebalance and also a repair cuz I found, uh, found the screw or nail or whatever uh, sticking out of that tire I wiggled it around some and it does leak.

Uh what I'm getting at is I'm not going to put the card back together right now and then. uh and then go drive it in order to film a a normal style of a uh exit video or exit uh, exit scene or whatever. Um, so we're just going to go ahead and cut this one out right now. Uh, I'm going to close it out as always by thanking each and every one of you guys for watching this video.

Certainly hope you enjoyed this video. hope you found it moderately entertain and perhaps even educational If you did enjoy this video or find it uh, one of those two things, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below. Do not forget to tap that like button while down there. and most importantly, have yourselves a fantastic day! See you guys later! See you in the next one.

uh, maybe I'll even see you down, uh, over on the second. Channel If you use the link posted down inside of this video's description again, check out Rainman Ray Off Duty for more content. Bonus features and things of that nature plus super secret hidden Part two videos. Thank you guys again for watching see you on the next one in a video in a transmission end of Chevrolet and Powera.

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