Back to Part 1 Rust Busted Spring! Honda Ridgeline 3.5 2006-2014 Multiple Problems! https://youtu.be/HLy70fsfuUw
We return to out 2013 Honda Ridgeline to begin the arduous task of replacing rusted out rear struts due to a broken coil spring. The sockets don't fit the bolts because the steel is rusted away in some place. A captured bolt located inside of the frame breaks off during disassembly. Clever tactics must be employed to fix the situation properly! The rear sway bar links had to be chopped off with a saw and a cut off wheel just to begin removing the struts and springs. The grinding front brakes were fixed in the last video as well as the rest of the diagnosis. Unfortunately the A/C repairs were declined.
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Customer Customer States Mechanic Fails Engine Transmission Gas Diesel off road race 4x4 street car daily driver scam dealership dealer technician how to

Howdy Folks Good day to you and welcome back. We are returning to our Honda Ridgeline uh, non-pick Em Up Truck This is the one that had the broken spring on the the right rear strut assembly. In the last video, we did a bunch of diagnosis. We uh found that the AC had crapped out and the compressor was junk.

We also found that somebody had installed a defective or incorrect rotor on the right front and it was actually contacting this caliper bracket. uh, not allowing the uh, the caliper bracket to sit properly. It was grinding and kind of bending everything sideways so I ended up pulling that rotor off and we tossed a new one on there that was a known good fitting part and it solved that conflict of components so they're no longer grinding together anyway. we want a parts hold at the end of the video and I was not able to get around to working on these struts over here.

So what we're doing today is going back up in the air with this. Honda Ridgeline and we're going to remove and it's the complete rear strut assemblies. uh with springs. The reason for that is one of the Springs rusted out and broke in half like there's a some plastic stuff dangling here.

The coil has come out from around its little base right here and it's broken back on that side. I've got another piece to it somewhere I think it's it might be in my cart. Regardless, we're gonna go ahead and pull that strut assembly down both sides. I'm probably going to have to chop the sway bar links off with a saw or something like that because uh, those guys were pretty Rusty Crust-o-matic and I don't know if I'm going to be able to unbolt them so we're chopping off the sway bars.

we're pulling this lower control arm down and we're gonna get these struts off of this uh, unibody frame right here. We'll get some new ones installed and then, uh, this thing will be back on the road in no time. So stay tuned because this is going to be a very good video opening. Z Hood foreign I Ended up getting some not sponsored Moog uh sway bar in links and I also I got I think they were they were Master Pros who made them? it's uh, it's an off-brand only thing that was available.

Uh, so we ended up getting Master Pro uh strut assemblies I Know what you're gonna say oh those are Chinesium. Well, they're better than this so that's what we're gonna put in anyway. I'm gonna hit this with an impact straight away and we're gonna see if this is gonna come apart. Maybe it will, maybe won't.

Yeah, it's not a good sign. Yeah, it's gonna fight us. The ball is just kind of spinning. so time to start destructing or wait a minute.

Hang on. I Might be a little off here. look I it appears I've made this nut smaller uh by scraping the rust off of it. So let's put a smaller socket on.

see if I can get some traction with that. These come off I Don't want to fight? Yeah, it just spins to nothing. Look at that, it's disintegrated. I'm using the wrong tools I Need an impact camera? All right? Well, since this is turning into cheese, let's just, uh, hit it with a big chisel on an air gun and see what happens.
Loud noises. Oh, maybe that's like a 12 millimeter Bolt or a 13. It's so small. Get rid of the rest.

Here it goes going. Ray You're doing that wrong. That socket doesn't fit. Okay, let us try the 14 millimeter.

Then if that doesn't work, we'll try the 13 millimeter. Okay, we've got it turning now. so I'll try to get a hold of the back of that stud with the angular needle nose here. Try to hang on to it.

Seriously. Okay, Uh, that's not working now. Next level of escalation I'm just gonna cut it off. Engage Safety Squids.

Can we get it? Nope. Destroy. Um, feel it Right off of there. We go.

Cool, Got it. Thank you. Alrighty, so that one up there, that one's farther away and I can't really get to the bolt that can't get it from the back side either. So rather than going through one I just did with this one.

Uh, we're gonna change our Method Of Destruction and we're just going to Sawzall that thing right out of there I Got a straight line on the stud right here. I'm just going to sell it right in half. Maybe Our new blade. Our new used blade.

that other one was kind of too flexy. thank you Foreign, Let's just try a pointy one. There we go. Okay, so now that the sway bar has come free, uh, we need to I think disconnect the knuckle here.

and then we need to unbolt the strut. here. the strut. It comes down into this control arm slightly and the bolt runs through.

So we need to pull out this one. this one. Then once this thing can swing down, uh, we need to take the two top bolts out of the top of the strut that go into the body and then, uh, we can pull the unit out and seeing as how all this is super crustified, I'm gonna have to hammer my socket onto the bolt and get this to come free. Wow, it's gonna come out Yeah, it's gonna come out good.

Okay I need to go get my pole Jack and support this and paste my spring pressure pushing pushing down on the control arm. I Don't want the thing to come loose here and then fly out everywhere because that would be bad. All right hold. Jack Coming in for some safety, just slide this guy right down under here.

Now this thing is secure. A lot of noises continue. came out no problem. Look, it's a fluted Bolt or lightweight I Guess greatly.

that's not what I wanted to have, but hey, when I dropped it, it came apart. We're good. Okay, that's one side. Let's get this one.

I think that's a 27 millimeter? Yeah, okay. 27 mil socket coming in. I think I think that's a little big. okay I see what I've done I thought that was a 24 but it was actually a 22 but I didn't notice.

This is the 24. it goes on this bat. ball right there. That was wrong the whole time.

Sealy Technician All right. that's it. That's good. Bolt came off.
let's uh. well. I would say we could lower the Jack down, but we can't do that. So let's just raise the truck up off of awful.

Jack Oh Flashlight Batteries going down. Let's see what happens here. Okay, it didn't do much. It's cool, it's still sitting there.

We need pry bar more pry bar? Yeah. I think uh I Think that's free, clear, and safe. Let's get the Jack out of the way. It's a pry barring this down.

Oh yeah, there it is. Now it's exposed. Look at that. Good.

Very good. Okay, let's get after these upper bolts right here and here. we'll drop this unit out. Okay I think that's a 16 millimeter bolt up there.

Again, it's all crusty and flaking apart too. It's going to be more. Hammer Socket action here. Yeah, 16 millimeters? It might be 15..

I Guess we're gonna find out 16 coming in and yeah, it's not that okay. it is the rust that deceives us. Let's try a 15. see that one's gonna make it come loose.

Negative: You know what these are. These are self-shredding oxidized bolts. Let's try a 14. All right? Well, we got a grip on the bolt.

at least switching out the little impact to the extra long 3 8 ratchet here. Let's uh, see if this is gonna break her loose. Hope so. Unclick? No, Oh no, no no, we're not doing this.

This is. This is not gonna happen like this. This thing is going to come out. I Refuse to lose.

This is my karma. payback for that. Key edit: It's all rusted out and just kind of came apart. There we go.

That was violent, but it's coming loose. Cool? Yeah, let's pull our ratchet off. Get the impact back on. Look at that.

It's terrible There she is. Okay I think we've got just uh. one more faster to go over here On this side. Let's reposition set down our impacts here and we're gonna come back up.

How many bolts are here? One or oh, there's three of them. okay. one on the other side and then two over here on this side. see if this is gonna work here.

I Need to get the the socket into the bolt. the Bolt's all rusty and Flaky so I sockets not wanting to fit? dang I think I should have charged a rust Surplus tax on this. Why? what? They're making weird noises. What was that? Something fell down I was my impact? Okay, back in with the ratchet cracker loose.

Come on there we go. Please come loose. Lucy Goosey up she turned. Yeah.

cool. Okay, now we're gonna get somewhere. Think this is gonna work out in the end. it's gonna be slow going, but it'll go.

Got it. Threads are good. it survived the extraction. All right.

Bolt number three: Let's get the extendo socket up in the hole there. same thing as the other two. we gotta hammer it on, break it loose and impact. It Off First I gotta get it on the on the bolt fingers.

Smashing good. There is so much rust on the floor from stuff that fell out of this car. I Bet it's going to get better gas mileage because it weighs nice now. All right, we're preparing to, uh, fly some torque action here with the ratchet wash the top.
Oh come on you? Yeah, did it turn her? Yes she did. She turned all right impact time and this thing should start coming down. Falling out of here. There's our bolt, got it.

Woohoo! Okay, so this guy is pretty loose. Pry that down I'll hold it with my hip I Think we're good. Pull this thing up and out that doesn't want to come out a little bit more. There we go there, she is.

That's our gravity. Rusty crosstimatic strut nice. And here's our new not crusted one. and look at that.

there's our broken spring. Yeah, that's uh, not very good for a ride height or anything like that. So now when you take this guy, get it back in the hole and Vault it in. This next part should be the easy part.

Then we got to repeat it on the other side. Hey Pokey goats, the new strut is in hand. it's coming in the hole and then pry this guy down. now she's in position.

So I'm gonna put the bottom bolt in first that Big Bolt at the bottom because this thing is free and is able to move around. if I bolt it in at the top, it's going to be harder to uh to adjust this down here in order to get that bolt hole lined up. I mean that's my assessment Anyway, that's what I think just push this thing back because everything's a hammer. This is an extended hammer.

Hammer That guy in looks like the hole is starting to line up a little bit up, some a little bit, left some and I think we're good there. Good good. Okay, that's in Threads are started Now we can go up top and get the upper flange bolted to the frame. Let's start with the one right in front of us staring at us in the face.

We'll get that guy started. I'm gonna start there. We go. now.

it's threading good. Let's go around to the back. Get those other two all right that was threaded. Give it back there we go and around the back here.

one more hole. It's not really lined up either. Let's give her some wiggle action. Here There It Is Got that one threaded in started.

At least start sending them home. I Went in that one and the one over here around the front to our left. click. Okay, so we're bolted in here.

Gonna tighten up the bottom bolts and then get the knuckle bolts installed the big one at the bottom. Let's go ahead and just push this thing up. It's going to collapse that spring ever so slightly. It's going to bring this control arm up to meet the, uh, the knuckle.

It's not really a steering knuckle. Oh close. it might be close enough to start picking the car up off the rack over there. I'm watching that lift arm.

We need a couple more inches here, but the spring is starting to compress and it's pushing the vehicle up so we have to like I said. keep an eye on that right there so it'll pick the car up off the list. Try that guy down. Perfect.
Now we're in position. let's hear it at uh, our last bolt set up over there. Then we'll tighten it all down. Toss that sway bar on and this side will be good to go here.

Hammer 30. okay. 22 coming in. give that back.

Come on Pole Jack Ring Beautiful. All right. Okay, quick socket change 24 Let's tighten this guy down. Beginning Impact Good to go.

Beautiful one is done. Alrighty. So here is our replacement. sway bar links their Moog Problem solvers.

They've got grease certs on them. that one's gonna go in through that hole like so and then this one comes right through this hole right here on the control arm. So what I need to do is get these guys kind of lined up with their mole holes. You can see that one up there now we don't reach.

so we're going to start with the bottom one. Get that one on first. I might need to get the floor jack. Yeah, we need the pole Jack Back under here.

I've got to pick this control arm up a little bit more to, uh, line up that upper hole. so let's just do this again real fast. I Love my job so much. I'll do it twice.

We need like a half of an inch up there. I Think that looks like a half inch, maybe a little bit more of the half inch angle that stud up and it should. Yep, so that's through. Got her in.

Ah, terrible camera man. Got our nut here. Let's reach around the back side, get that nut threaded. There we go.

and I've got to get that top one by hand because I can't get power tools in there, but we can zip this one on with the impact. 13 Is that 13? or uh, that's 15. okay, 15 coming in. Thank you.

Okay, that one's on, just need to do the upper one. I'll have to put a wrench on the outside of the stud to get that one to stay. this one. uh, that one was able to catch.

but I won't be able to do the same for that one because again, no power tools. But you know what? we're gonna do that one last because I could appreciate some Flex in this sway bar. So let's go ahead and move over to the driver's side and get started on, uh, on that other strut. Over Yonder Okay, moving on over.

let's just do some slide action here. There we go. All right. Same protocol as last side.

we'll get the pole Jack pull the two bolts out, chop this thing off with a couple saws, then we'll drop this unit out of here. So I probably have to cut this off. but I'm gonna try to, uh, unbolt it first. No hurting trying.

Nope. Next socket. Yeah, that's a that's gonna be a hard no. let's go ahead and chop the thing off.

Okay. loud grinding noises coming back in here. Let's see if we can. It's my angle here for my dangle going to be this way this way.

foreign. Let's hit it with the impact driver, see if we can't break that nut off and then we'll Hammer the thing out and chop it off a little time up top. put the saws off Maximum Destruction Impact Chisel Sawzall Time. Just like the passenger side.
we're gonna get right on the back of that. Chop It Off Yeah, got it cool. That one came all the way off. No problem.

Where'd the nut go? Oh I Found it here. It is. no fell off the backside there. got her? Okay, back it up some.

Let's go ahead and get our two big bolts out. Uh, for our control arm, let's get the pole Jack in position here. that way we can take the weight when it, uh, when it comes down. and for safety and whatnot, that one's that one goes over there.

Look at that coating. thick on clicks, rapid fun kicks. cool beans. that one's out good shape.

24 This guy out. Thank you Woohoo! that one went up. I shouldn't have done that. Supposed to come down? Okay, no problem.

Pry bar. We're good here. So now that all of our pressure is relieved everywhere, let's get our upper bolts at the top of the strut right here. You remember those.

Let's get those guys out next. So Based on the amount of crust-o-matic rust up there, we're definitely gonna have to do this the same way. uh as the other side Hammer the socket on wrench and then, uh, spin it off with the gun. That's 100 gonna be the protocol here, so let's see.

Hold that right there. Right hand's got the other end of the ratchet and on the Mickey's daughter that was. that was actually pretty good. Came off with less resistance than the other side.

rust, dirt, dust, face. okay, sneaking myself around in the back. Let's get those, uh, those rear ones removed. There we go.

Pockets Almost lining up with a crusty, crusty bolt there. Yeah, we're off. Well, it's way off. We're gonna try again.

It went on Sideways Crooked ways still on. Sideways Now that one's a rough one, it's a little worse than the others. Got one shot at this. If I slip that socket I'm gonna be in a world of hurt.

I Think we're good? Okay, ratchets coming in? yeah. I Think that's gonna be good. Let's give it a shot. See what she does? Yeah, all right here we go.

Yep, she's turning. That turns good. Very good. Okay, that one came free.

Dude. two down, one to go. Let's go around the other side and get that front front one. Yeah, it's the front front that way.

Yeah. I know half of what I just said doesn't Uh, didn't make any sense I Mean it made sense to me I I knew what I was talking about. This guy up in the hole here and I remember that one on next ship away some of the rust I think we're I think that's lined up right there Hammer Time Nope. Ah I don't have any room to contort myself? What do I do I need two hands on it? Okay, here we go now.

I got my my angles of attack. all situated here. Okay, that's on socket wrench ratchet coming in down below. Can you guys see where that's at a little bit? Yeah yeah, you can see this guy on and come loose.
slipped off okay I put an extension on this so I can get some better uh, controllability of this uh extension socket thing I was having a hard time squeezing all my tools into that tight space in there. right again. Okay, ratchets back on on kicks. Come on now.

turn there we go. Okay. Switcher out with the gun. Impactoroo? No.

I need my extension again. Redo again. Come on. Seriously, that's a unacceptable what is problem I need lubricant? Okay so here's my solution.

Got a half inch to 3 8 adapter. We're gonna put that on the end of our socket extension and I'll back that thing out with a half inch gun that's got. Uh, it's got more beans. many more beans.

It's got all the beans we're gonna reach snow. Get on there on there you? Why is this side so hard? Now it's all slipping. It's all lubricated and slippery. Uh what happened? Something Just something bad just happened here.

Oh no. all right, we have problem. The bolt is spinning in there, but it's not. Uh, it's not on threading something.

something. Let go. This is Not okay. Okay I'm hoping that the captured nut inside of there just broke free from the spot weld.

So I'm gonna Hammer a pry bar in. that's gonna give us some down pressure on the strut and then we'll try to break it. Loose Again, a little bit more reducer with the socket here. Let's see if this is going to on thread or if I've got to cut it off I don't know Maybe Yep it's getting cut off now we're standing Okay Saw us all time again.

Fun. All right. This is not how I wanted this to work out. Give it back to me.

Come here. Well I certainly did not see this coming, but it's here. so let's get to chopping. Yay! All right, that's out.

So now we can at least get the strut out of the vehicle and we can see what kind of a repair damage I need to deal with in there. It's uh, this could potentially be a pretty big problem. I Think well we'll see more pry bars. Try Hammer.

There we go. That was fun. Got it? Okay, let's see what happened here to that. Uh, that bolt.

Oh, here we go. Yeah, it was welded on and now it is not welded on. So I need to just weld a nut to the inside of up here and then I can put a new bolt in. Okay, alrighty, so here's our situation at hand that needs to be dealt with.

Got a rusted out welded on nut from the inside that our Factory bolt is supposed to thread into. Now I've got a replacement, a suitable replacement bolt, and a nut here. Trouble is is I won't be able to get that nut in position and then weld it because I can't get my welder around this corner here. So what I'm going to do is we're going to figure out where this nut sits and I'm going to drill a hole in the bottom of this right? So then we're going to place that nut in position and I'm going to weld it from this side, attaching, or weld it through the hole from this side, effectively attaching this nut to the top of this Frame through that hole and then I can weld that hole shut while we're there and then this nut will be in place of the one that's already in position there.
So let me go fetch the drill. We'll drill our pilot hole and then we'll bust water out and get going. So now that we know the plan, let's figure out where this hole is going to go here. So I'm going to flip my nut around one more time.

we're going to thread this guy in Center the center of the hole there and it's looking like right here it's going to be a good spot. bit from Milwaukee to the rescue not sponsored. that's what I bought they're better than Harbor Freight step bits Foreign hole is drilled. This is good.

Okay, so here's how this is gonna work. I need to make sure that this bowl is inside of the nut because if I get that nut in position and then I weld on it, the heat on it can actually expand it or contract it and it can make the bolt not fit into the threads. But if I have the threads in the bolt, then apply the weld to it. Once it cools, it should go back to the normal position and the bolt would also prevent any kind of distortion from happening.

I Know that's kind of a long shot, but I've I've experienced it. So what I'm doing is just going to use the bolt to make sure that that nut stays the way it's supposed to be. Now we appear to be centered up properly and I can see the edge of uh of that nut through the hole right there. So what I'm going to do next is grab a hold of this with some vice grips to keep some pressure on it so it can't flop around while I'm trying to weld it and we're going to go through that hole with the MIG welder Buzz that on and then hopefully it'll be enough to capture it and hold it in position so we can use this bolt to secure the strut to the frame the car.

Okay, let's try these guys for some down pressure. That way my hands are safe and free and I can still kind of manipulate that a little bit. Let's get. Uh, let's get our welder in welding helmets on safety Squints Engaged All right I think I got it.

It did. uh did it did well to the body I Can't push the thing up good. Now let's get some more weld in there. So far so good.

I think we got it. That should be finished off quite nicely. So now we have a new replacement captured bolt on the back side of the frame. How about that? I'm going to consider that skills.

Hot Hot Hot Hot Hot Hot Hot Hot Hot Hot Hot Hot Hot Hot Hot Hot Hot Hot Hot there. So now that we're back on track, let's get Uh, let's get this strut up into its position here. Just like. so slide that down in there dude.

Now we'll get our bolt at the bottom of the strut and then our three bolts. uh up top looking down at our big strut bolt right here we've got the uh, the bolt in hand. see to kind of shake this thing back a little bit. There's the uh, little pushing grommet business right there.
Pull that guy in. Okay, so far so good right there. Now take our Bolt these are going to go up into the flange. you guys know that already.

this being a thorough narrator did I put this backwards. No, No. I'm good. thank you.

Not lighting up. but this problem with this but not clocked properly. Yeah. I need to kind of spin them out there.

Try that. There we go. That one started to thread in. Okay, we've got one in to come around.

this way we'll reach in, get the uh, the back one in that's going to come from up and down and over here. it's still not clocked perfectly straight. I can work with it. There you go.

Okay, let's push this up some keep it there. There we go I got my knee holding it now we can get that one threaded some yeah, feel it, bite. There we go, that one's in. Okay, let's get a couple turns on that bolt, draw this thing up and a couple more turns on the front.

one back one. this one. there we go and where'd that replacement bolt go? I Think it's this one. same size, nope nose, but no cigar.

this one. thread it into its nut and I need to go up a little further so we're headed back to this other bolt here there. Get that on it, don't you? don't? You do that. Get on there there.

Okay. you can stay right. Stay there. Look at that.

Beautiful. It's threading in victory. It's actually a victory of the highest quality. So that's a 15.

That new bolt was the old ones were 14s. Let me pop this guy off, switch it out, and we'll tighten that one up next. Okay, up through the little opening there onto our fastener, look at that. He's tight.

That was a success. Let's get those other other two torqued all the way because they were not that one. and then the one off, uh, off to the right here. Get on there.

Awesome! Okay, let's go back down below and get our big bolts in and then we'll slap those uh, sway bar links back together. Okay pole. Jack Coming back into position here, let's get some up pressure on our lower control arm. We'll get this ball in this bolt hole lined back up and it will start uh, sending torque in here.

Spinner around. Yeah. I Know it looks kind of sketchy. It's not that bad.

It's relatively safe-ish relatively more up down. right on. That's perfect. See that? Okay, there's our Big Bolt coming in.

Holes lined up mostly should be lined up. Uh yeah, it's a little too high. Let's let her down some. Nick Jackson for that 27.

Oh, it's already on the thing there. Excellent cool beans. one sway bar link to go. All right.

let's move this in a little bit closer and we can get uh, the sway bar link in. its uh, in its home here. We'll stick that in right up there at the top. we'll get one of the nuts threaded in or on on.

And in all the above, that was an error in judgment. I Put this on the wrong side of the thing. Love my job. Gonna do it twice.
Put that behind right there now. I'll get that nut on. Okay and then at the hole here in front of us are going to let the control arm down some step through. there we go and then we can tighten this one with the impact and then the other one will do by hand up top.

Okay, 3 8 impact coming in for the win. Thank you. Click! Very good. Okay so here's how I'm going to attempt to tighten these guys down: I've got the flex head spline Drive mounting wrenches and in order to squeeze that guy around to make sure that nut's as tight as I can get it by hand.

Yep, slip that thing on over the nut. just like so very tight. squeeze in there I could barely fit this wrench over that nut. There we go and I'll just keep working her like so until actually, you know what new idea I'll move the stud.

There we go. That's better. We'll run the thing down, work it in, and then we can go and get that other side man. nearly complete right now.

Troy is uh, up in the front and he's doing that uh, that tie rod that we saw earlier in the last video. Dude, he can. He can handle that and knock that thing out. I'm not going to send this off for the wheel alignment.

uh, my guy's gonna go do that all on his own because he's from New York and has to go back to New York a little more. we're almost. uh, about as tight as it's going to get here. Yeah, Click.

Got my wrench is stuck. Pry bar the wrench. I'll pry bar the uh, uh, what? you call it up and out of the way. Maybe that'll work boys.

There we go. Got it cool? Okay, that one's done. Let's go get the other side. All right.

So we know that that little method was, uh, effective. We're gonna go ahead and uh and repeat what we just did here. We're gonna snip uh, that's kind of not working. that one doesn't fit I need to pry bar the sway bar up so I may get the wrench onto it.

Hang on here there. That's what we need. other wrench coming in at the 18. last night us that was Latin for gravity.

we're getting tight a couple more here. that turns good I think I need to do a wrench flip and give it it. uh. final beans here.

oh Clips Okay, that one's on good and whereas we pry bar again, we gotta go back in here. Fry up on uh that sway bar to get the uh what you call it. let's get the wrench back. Got her my pry bar back.

Good to go. All right. let's back up some throw. you're nearly done with that uh tie rod over there buddy.

Oh, it's over there. Anyway, when he's done and I'm almost done, we're gonna go ahead and get these uh wheels back on this thing and I'll take it out on the road one more time. Uh, we can check for any other noises and whatnot. but I think we're in good shape here.

Got it good? Say hi side eye. he gave everybody the side eye. you just gave a hundred thousand people to side eye. Don't see my black elbow? Uh yes you have some I got a Panama yeah oh it's petroleum products is it paint? Is it fresh paint? Because Amaya's painting.
Is it her fresh paint? She's uh that was amazing. You got paint on your hands, lots and lots of it red-handed coming down outside. Let's back this unit out. take it on the road.

Uh I Don't know if I mentioned earlier. we're not going to do the AC work on this so if anybody's wondering, uh, there will be no AC work and yes, uh, both of both of both of the joints on the rear sway bar links had Zerk fittings and they were greased with that grease gun right there as well as this tie rod right here that Troy just changed. So oh, that is of no problem and of no consequence. I have lubricated, Uh, all the systems that can in fact be lubricated.

Put that guy back on the cap where she goes. There we go. there's guys and I need to fetch my my light and get that out. Don't want to drive away without my light.

That would not be okay. It's very bright light. oops, hey, you've seen it up right there here we go. until the next time.

Lightsaber Light bar. see you later Honda Okie Dokes Let's hop on in restarting the engine and uh, we're gonna go out and hit the road real quick. We'll do our normal short short course test drive up and over the bridge, around and through and then back onto the bridge over the tracks. Now we had the brakes apart so I need to pump up the pedal just to make sure that the pads are seated against the uh, the rotor.

Good Feeling Good Wheels are tight. They're installed backing up honks for safety. especially since there's extra people here. You guys were wondering uh, who the uh, the third body was walking around.

That's Dave he's over there Dave Started earlier this week. This is working out really well I like Dave and I like Dave being here. Good guy. Anyway, you guys will see more of Dave uh in the coming coming days, weeks, months and years Etc et cetera.

So we're backing around. We've got the tie rod on it, we've got the two rear struts in. We have two rear sway bars. we had diagnosed the air conditioning didn't do anything with that and the engine oil was changed earlier by my Jeep guy.

So uh, am I missing something? I thought there was something else on this I'll check for paperwork, but either way, uh, this thing is in uh, nearly completed condition. so let's go out and just make sure our steering doesn't feel binding and we don't hear any popping and clanking banging noises from uh, broken suspension components. And if that's the case, we're going to swing it back to the shop, get her parked, close it up, and I'm headed home because it is in the bay. the sun is long, the Shadows are stretched I'm tired, it's hot, and we're uh, we're almost done here.

Okay, let's ride. So basically what I want to check to make sure first see I know the Springs back there are not broken but I want to make sure of is this thing doesn't have that popping binding business in the steering that I felt like it had earlier. and it does not. It does not seem to wander like it did.
So I think we're good here. Yep, it feels good I Hear no more noises. The ride height is now the same right turn up and over the bridge. We're gonna pick up some speed, give it a couple hard breaking events just to make sure that grinding noise doesn't, uh show back up under hard braking.

We can call this one good. So having said all that water heater having said all that as always like to thank you guys for watching this video. Certainly hope you enjoyed this video actually this video series because this is in fact a part two. Uh if you would like to go back and watch part one, just check down inside of this video's description and there will be a link that will take you back to the first video on this 2013 Honda Ridgeline Or you can wait till the very end of this video.

there's gonna be a little pop-up like right around here somewhere. or maybe over here, maybe down here and also link you back in time to the part one of this uh this hot Ridgeline video. So all of that being said again and as always thank you guys for watching and most importantly have yourselves a great day. See you guys later in the video and on the Ridgeline in a day in the transmission.


95 thoughts on “Broke off in the frame! strut job going wrong! honda 3.5 2006-2014 @milwaukeetool pt2”
  1. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars King TarreVizla says:

    i would have got the Seda lean torch on that bolt thats just me lol

  2. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars glen ruginski says:

    that's a sway bar link

  3. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Vince McDonald says:

    South Main Auto, has rusty nuts too

  4. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Richard Trail says:

    I am surprised you do not use WD40 or PB Blaster for all the bolts coming out and for install.

  5. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars LF Creations says:

    This is just terrible. The only reason you have THAT much rust is improper winter maintenance. In order to have this not happen in the future, you need to regularly take your cars and trucks through the car wash. Up here in Utah, we use salt, and salt/sand. I have MINIMAL rust on my car because of proper care and maintenance in the winter months.

  6. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bill Utter says:

    the music while cutting is great. i like your videos, and your master wrench work man!

  7. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Steven Szikora says:

    Was this in the salt water flood

  8. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Steven Szikora says:

    What you dont have a torch

  9. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Jim Davis says:

    I've been playing catch up on your videos. I just watched the previous one on this Ridgeline, and had a thought. (that's rare for me). Do you think maybe the guy that installed the right front caliper deliberately left it loose so it wouldn't bind, knowing it was the wrong rotor? That would explain why the bolts were loose.

  10. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Timothy Queen says:

    No such thing as a 15 mm on a Honda. You got 8. 10، 12، 14، 17 & 19mm. Just letting you know.Except for the axle nuts are larger than 19.

  11. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Timothy Queen says:

    There is no such thing as a 13 mm on a Honda. You have to hold the joint with channel lock pliers to keep it from turnlng with the nut on the sway bar links. You are doing it the hard way and its taking you 4 times as long. Ya need some heip ?

  12. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Shawn Whitman says:

    I've had that happen to me many times. I would make the new nut a flag nut when I wasn't able to weld it in place. But making it a flag nut worked pretty good

  13. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Lawrence Pevitts says:

    Where is that vehicle from that it's so rusty?

  14. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars John says:

    Why re-use the damaged bolts?

  15. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Prenquall says:

    Crusty … just like every vehicle up here in the north 😂

  16. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars William Pezzullo says:

    Should you scrape and paint prime the area where the strut goes back in?

  17. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Wayne Polk says:

    Why don't you ever put penetrating spray on these Rusty bolts first

  18. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars steve newsam says:

    For those of us that live or used to live in the salt belt, saw this coming a mile away. Torches are your friend.

  19. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars timmyluap says:

    Well that was a piss easy job,,

  20. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Mike Kaminski says:

    Can't be tight if it's liquid

  21. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Gerald Fields says:

    This guy must drive on the beach.

  22. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Elinore Berkley says:

    Cheap build…😢

  23. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars RPK says:

    Thyis Honda has got more rust on it than the Titanic.

  24. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Ron Donovan says:

    Were you all out of penerating spray ???

  25. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars David Nixon says:

    Your working on a rusty vehicle…..WHY!

  26. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Troy Cridland says:

    as someone who doesnt live in america (australia here) is all that undercarraige rust due to salted roads or something else im potentially overlooking. i mean, ive seen 30 yr old cars with high mileage over here with less rust

  27. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars arska638 says:

    You may have a kind of rust zone there but you can't even imagine how it is in the winter road salt zone here in the nordics. It is rust to the power of ten, as that road salt acts as an electrolyte. Cars that do not have a rust protection coating on the underside are almost doomed…

  28. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars tazfaninafocus says:

    Genius.

  29. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Richard Steckel says:

    I’m so glad I worked on aircraft…..
    I would hate working on what you have to work on. I admire your skill and resourcefulness and the number of special tools you have!

  30. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars MrMOCENT says:

    it gives me good memories of watching @southmainauto to see you fighting the rust

  31. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars YTAlnyc says:

    Why not use penetrating fluid on end links before you tried the impact gun?

  32. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Michael Stoop says:

    Why is thisn car super crusty?

  33. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Giovanni Smith says:

    Reason 1 why rubberized undercoatings are terrible. They trap moister and paint it a pretty black. Then mechanics deal with the after math goop. Oil based is superior and you just have to reaplly before salt season.

  34. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Lee Ramos says:

    No anti seize?

  35. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars D4rk_H4r8in93r says:

    Troy and his dirty weenis

  36. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Chris Stoll says:

    U ever heard of a torch

  37. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Momentum Tint & Detail says:

    As a northeast mechanic Ray, I recommend a little grease on as fastener you fought getting out. Typically one 1/4 turn from busting the blind fasten off the unibody….

  38. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Chuck Cresswell says:

    I was getting bored watching those self disassembling southern vehicles being worked on there. Thanks!

  39. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Robert Peters says:

    Maybe we should demand manufacturers use neversieze on all bolts of suspension and exhaust!!!

  40. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Shamanas Hambashas says:

    Hey! I have learnt from many swaybar end links (that I had to cut apart) on Alfas, the best method is to clean all the rust fron the thread and the nut, then hit it with penetrating oil and only then a strong impact drivee. Works everytime on my rusty endlinks 😀 good luck, Ray, thank you for your videos 🙂

  41. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars George Parris says:

    I'm guessing this was a new arrival in FL from NY….at what point is the rust no longer safe

  42. Avataaar/Circle Created with python_avatars Bas Bass says:

    Is this not a repair-value that exceeds by far the value of the car? If the car was rotten to bits it would be economical. But on a car on its way out due to rust? How many months of life will this car have left if it is used daily in very very salty conditions?