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Hello everybody, good day to you and welcome back! This is a 2006 Ford Mustang GT the 4.6 liter V8 Uh, this vehicle is here for a check engine light. It's got uh I think two trouble codes of significance and then one trouble code of insignificance. Uh, it's running a P0171 system lean bank one. that's this side over here and it's also got I think like a 2196.
Uh, which is basically saying that the O2 sensor on bank one is stuck lean or is not switching high low, high, low, high low. So we have a fuel trim issue I was attempting to troubleshoot it yesterday a little bit and I kind of got a little stuck. so I I kind of gave up for that or gave up on the day and now I'm back at it again. A little bit of backstory: Um, this, uh, this vehicle has had a couple repair attempts already to solve the issue.
I Don't know if we can see down there? No, not a chance, but it's got a brand new uh O2 sensor. Not exactly brand new, but somebody replaced 2 on bank one. that's the Upstream sensor and they cleared the code, sent it on its way and that did not seem to fix its problem. and now I think we can see now.
Yeah, there's the hang on Focus there's the shiny on that sensor. It's it's real hard to see. you can see it way down there it is. There's that O2 sensor so it's been replaced.
Um, but that did not fix the problem I Spent quite a bit of time yesterday. kind of checking out the PCV system and the vacuum system. I was looking for leaks I checked for intake leaks down here at the manifold that came up dry. there's really nothing here that's uh, giving me an indicator that we have an actual leak which an early can unmetered air leak would uh would cause a lean code or a lean condition because there's too much air coming into the system and the PCM does not know that that air is there so it can't compensate with fuel.
thus uh running the air fuel ratio out of stockyometric Harmony So I attempted to diagnose it I found fuel trims that were uh I think they were Max positive on bank one and then they were just a normal fuel trim levels on Bank two uh which in the absence of a a vacuum leak or a fuel delivery problem which I don't think it has I'm starting to wonder if we have an electrical issue when it comes to that sensor or maybe even we have a an incorrect sensor. The reason that I'm very, very stuck on this is when it came in I was able to visually identify the fault I saw that field trims were wrong and I saw the O2 sensors uh or the O2 sensor on bank one. I caught that particular sensor showing me uh, like zero volts on the PID and incorrect voltages I caught it hanging up and not switching. So I did see the sensor uh performing erratically.
but the problem is is while I was trying to diagnose it Keys the uh: the system began functioning as designed and the fuel trims went back into spec which ultimately halted my diagnosis because if the problem does not exist I can't find it I found the keys I was sitting on them starting the engine. So what I'm going to do today is we're going to pull up all that data again and uh, and I want to see um, if the fault is present at this time or if we're back to where I left off yesterday. so we're going to go to fuel NO2 Sensor data continuing I know it doesn't support all pids. they all say that Oh, hang on I want to get into my pit list Not My Graph list Okay, let's see what we've got here now. we should still be enclosed. Loop We need to let this thing warm up a little bit. but yeah, we can see here that was bright. Fuel trims are they're around zero for long term I Found this yesterday like 22 and this would have been like two or three.
O2 sensor Bank One sensor one: We see some voltages going on right here. Uh, we're not in open loop so the downstream O2s are not doing anything. We've got the bank 2 sensor one. that's the driver side bank.
That one is switching like it's supposed to be. So right now we're all doing what we're supposed to be doing. Fuel trims are Yeah, they're slightly in the negative, which is okay. So as long as we're within plus or minus 10.
uh, that's kind of acceptable on our short terms and long terms for that matter. Um, well, long term? Yeah, Yeah. I don't know what I did to fix it if I did anything to fix it. But as of right now, the situation and the symptom are not uh, are not displaying themselves.
So let's go back real quick and just take a look at the codes. That way we know what's going on here. We're going into memory. Yes, keys on it's running blah blah Okay So we've got a P0171 system Lean Bank one.
Again, that's the passenger side Bank of cylinders. That's bank one. This is Bank two. The reason that's bank one is that's where cylinder number one is.
So you've got one, three, five, and seven. and then over here you've got two, four, six, and eight. Anyway, back to our scan tool. We've got a 171 So it's Lean on Bank one as per the code and at 21.95 O2 sensor excessive lean signal Bank One Sensor one So there's something going on with the uh air fuel monitoring on Bank one: I Think the reason I Think it has something to do with the monitoring system and not so much the engine is if we had like an air leak that was going to cause, uh, you know, unmetered air to come in, Theoretically, that should be affecting both Banks not just the one single bank.
So I don't think it's an air leak and let me show you what I mean. The reason I don't think it's an air leak is let's say we get an air league in that tube right there and that's pulling vacuum. Well as that air leak is coming into the intake manifold on this side of the throttle body, it's going to mix with whatever cylinder it wants so it won't be able to just go into one side or the other side or this cylinder or that cylinder. It's going to mix with all of them and that's going to run the entire engine lean rather than just one section. Now, there is a possibility that the intake or the lower intake manifold could be leaking and it's drawing in air just on one or two of the runners on this particular side. But I wasn't able to confirm that I actually tested for that by disconnecting the PCB system and plugging it off. and then I was, uh, checking for vacuum over here on bank one, which I never found that. So basically, if there were or was or is a vacuum leak at the intake manifold gaskets with PCV disconnected, there should be nothing to full vacuum under the valve covers in the PCB system and that wasn't the case.
It was not pulling vacuum with that disconnected which told tells me that there was not a an intake manifold leak. So I don't believe we actually has a have a physical component failing. Um, we may have a wiring issue regarding the Bank One sensor. We may have a PCM issue, but that's going to be difficult to track down.
We'll have to if it is a PCM. We'll have to probably employ process of elimination to make that determination. So that's way way ahead of schedule here. Um, aside from the obvious I I don't really see much to go off of.
The only thing I can really come up with. and I talk to some of the Council on the live stream with power stroke Tech Talk Uh, we are under the opinion based on all known information that perhaps the sensor that was installed over here on bank One is either a low quality aftermarket. it's not the correct style of sensor or perhaps it's just a crappy build or it has an A failure inside and it that's causing the situation. It's really hard to kind of pinpoint and point your finger at newly replaced Parts But we also have learned here over time that just because it's new does not mean it's any good.
And the fact that we had or I had witnessed that sensor malfunctioning and then it came back in online and started working like it should have been leads me to believe that the possibility of a faulty sensor is very real. So I actually may go ahead and replace where's my data I may go ahead and replace that sensor with a Motorcraft unit because like I said I don't know what was what was installed and um I just want to make sure I can rule out some of these variables because this like I said this car's already been uh at the shop a few times they've thrown some parts at it and we still have not uh or they the customer. nobody has been able to really pinpoint the issue and make that check engine light stay off. so that's the goal here now.
I Can tell someone has been working on this thing rather recently because if we go back into our code menu, we saw that P1000 that states that drive cycles are incomplete. Let me show you real quick. the P1000 OBD2 system checks incomplete. tells me that uh memory was recently cleared on this.
So let's see if we can find a PID that tells us when the last time the codes were reset. let's go down to the bottom a little share. Here we go. This helps us out. So the malfunction indicator lamp, the mill that is turned on and it has been on for 88 miles now. That tells me that this thing was just recently cleared because it has the P1000 code. so someone's been trying to troubleshoot this and I think our owners are seeking a second opinion. Um, either way, I'm looking to to figure out what's going on here.
I I Think it might have a bad sensor even though it's new and regardless, I I may just go ahead and do a triagnostic and toss one in just to rule that out. And if I can't catch this thing in the ACT that's exactly what I'm gonna do. So let's see here. Yeah, look at that.
Fuel trims are that's negative. Three, it's everybody's doing what they're supposed to be doing. Yeah, I Caught this earlier and I wish I'd have been recording I Caught that sensor stuck at zero volts. Uh, the other ones were all doing what they were supposed to be doing, but that was intermittently just hitting zero volts.
And that's not what we want to see. Let's pull up some graphs real quick. I need to figure out how to get rid of that glare. That's silly.
Hang on. let's go over here. Okay, let's pull up some graphs. We're gonna go to four graph and we're going to go down to our O2 sensors.
Okay, so what we've got here, we've got: O2 sensor that's Bank One Sensor One voltage O2 sensor Bank One sensor two that's in the cat or the downstream this is O2 sensor bank 2 sensor one that's Upstream on the not affected side and that is the Catalyst monitor sensor in or behind the cat. I'm not so concerned about the downstreams, but I am looking at our switching pattern between our Upstreams now even though fuel trims are in line. look at how lazy the sensor is. Yeah, it is switching right now.
Like I mentioned before. I Did catch this thing hanging up, but it's it is switching but it's hanging up. When it switches, you can see uh, right right there we get. we go from low to high and it just kind of hangs out there.
Then it'll drop and switch, it drops and it just kind of hangs out and it kind of repeats that pattern. it's it's a lazy sensor when we should see a pattern that looks like this graph down here where we're going low high, low, high low high low high all the time. So I'm going to go ahead. and uh, I'm going to order a another sensor for the exhaust on the Upstream bank one and we're going to toss that one in and we're going to monitor the activity on another sensor and see what it does.
So let's power this thing down before it gets too hot. I'm gonna go get the thing ordered and we're gonna slap it in and go from there. so stay tuned. Mustang Mustang Sally All right, let's go find some, uh, some pots.
What do you guys say? Let's get some pots, parts, parts, parts. I Almost doxed myself and gave you guys my computer password. that's not gonna work Sarah here. don't go anywhere. Okie dokie. New sensors on the way. Moving on up. black subscribe button.
Foreign? no really. I mean that that way you get a notification when I make a video. It's kind of a big deal. All right all the way up on the locks.
click. Okay, so what we're gonna do. So there's our downstream O2 sensor see how it's in the converter. Likewise, on this side in the converter lumens, where's my light there? Well, you can see right here that the Upstream O2 kind of dark.
You can tell it's been replaced, but it's not. Uh, not super new. Pluck that sensor out which is a little easier said than done. It's up there kind of far.
The exhaust is a little warm I had it running. Um, let it cool off for a minute and then we're gonna get that sensor out. I ordered another one. uh I'm expecting it anytime now.
Uh, like I said, this is going to be a tragnostic I'm going to throw in that new one and we're going to go back up to the scan tool and check on what that Upstream O2 sensor is doing over there. I Just need to eliminate that sensor as the possibility. All right I Want to see if I can manage this without burning my flanges or my wrist? It's a little warm up there, all right. So this connector very hard to reach, especially while while things are warm I'm gonna try to reach up and disconnect this thing.
my thumbs on the little release tab. let's give it a bit of a tug here. Oh hot, Hot Hot hot. Come on there we go.
ow. So that uh connector looks okay. The pins look good. You can tell it's been replaced recently.
It's fairly newish. Whatevers. Yeah, that's not the sensor. We're looking at the one up a little bit higher.
so I need to reach in there some wrench action. see if we can't get that guy to come free. Not the easiest sensor in the world to get a hold of, but I think I can manage unclick. Oh that's uh, that's tighter than it needed to be.
Uh oh dang oh, that was that thing was in there. They don't need to go that tight. I mean tight's good, but that was that was really tight. Okay I can't fit a wrench on this anymore.
It was like the the one shot that I had. so oh man, this isn't Fun it's hot in there. Ow yeah no I need to work it out with the wrench a little bit more. twist this a bunch.
The wire will untwist the sensor. It's worth a shot. It's probably not going to work and stupid idea, but you never know stranger things have happened. It's a negative not working.
Please come loose. This is you See, The issue is is I can get a wrench on it. Then there's this bolt for the transmission. when I try to turn the wrench the uh, the wrench Just Hits that bolt and uh I can't get a straight shot on it anymore.
Um, hot. Okay I have an idea. I'll use some gloves to protect my hands from the Heat that might work if I reach around the back side here. reaching the front I can just kind of work the Fastener with my fingers. not Rusty So this? yeah Oh yeah yeah, it's working and I think the Twisted wire is helping too. Yep, it's coming out I don't know if you guys can see and I apologize if you can't Okay wow, this thing's it's running pretty rich I think look at that. take a look at that. that's uh, it's pretty dark.
pretty suited up. Yeah. I'm I've got another one like I said I'm gonna throw this one in. We've come this far.
All righty. I'm coming in with a triagnostic sensor. We're going to install this the same way. gonna get it up into its hole here and use the fingertip turning method.
Once the threads are started, I'll twist that wire up some that way. The wires natural, uh, natural rebound to a straight position is going to maybe help me turn this just a little bit. It's going to be the hard part getting it to thread because I'm holding a couple hundred degree pipe. Hope you guys can see.
Come over here. Okay I think the thread's caught here. we go. So here.
what I'll do. Oh no my, my wire's twisting. We don't want that. Well I know which direction it's twisting so let's just untwist it all right.
Tuck that over there. Okay Center is going in, that's that's great. Perfect tight squeeze. Yeah, you see that little bolt hole right there that is getting us hung up like a lot.
Okay I know we need don't need this wrench I need this wrench I think it's a little bit thinner and it's a double box end with uh, four different angles. This one won't do it. nothing will something like that. Come on, get on there.
Why? All right? Yeah. I got a bite, turned a little bit. There we go, Got another bite, not a big one. Click all right.
the sensor has some torque, let's move back a little bit, plug it in and then we're gonna go up top, restart the engine and uh, we're gonna monitor the activity on this sensor. All right so we can see the connectors up there. but I can't fit my fingers up there to really make this connection happen. So I'm gonna get a hold of the harness side with some curvy uh angle pliers here for like needle nose but with a Twist I'm gonna see if uh if I can't get a hold of the connector to hold to stabilize it because I can't fit my hand up there.
So what I'll do is use the pliers to hold the other side and then I can line up this uh, the connected side. hope you guys can see. Just give it a push. please click there it is.
That's a positive Bick Action put you back up where you go I have no idea what that mounts to. if anything, it's nowhere near its mount and I don't see anything to to clip it to. Okay, let's get out of here. Let this thing down.
restart the engine and uh, take a look at that scan tool data down down down Mustang Coming down I See you all right? let's go see what this thing's gonna do. Restarting the engine, begin engine starting sequence now. Oh yeah, all right this car is Tiny I cannot fit. Okay, so all right, we've got our four graph pulled back up. Let's scroll down and find O2 sensors. So here's fuel trims long term: O2 Sensor One Sensor two: No worries that it's flat lined. look at here. Okay, I'm gonna let this thing Run come up to Temp and we're going to let it switch over into open loop.
Okay, we've had a few seconds of run time. We can see that the sensor that we just installed it's Bank One Sensor one. We can see that that thing is switching better and it's not getting hung up the way that the one that we just removed was the old new one. But we can also see that it's not exactly emulating the bank too.
So uh, let's go ahead and get this thing off the rack, take it for a test drive, let it come up to Temp and we're going to monitor the fuel trims and both of these O2 sensors at the same time, and we're going to see if we have any change of state here. I Mean from what I'm looking at, that's kind of an improvement. but it's also not right. So I'm not 100 yet.
but like I said, this was a triagnostic. I Get to do that here. just clearing the rack all the way. And what do we have here? That's where we walked away.
This is where we are now. a little bit of activity. Okay, let's take quick note of our short-term fuel trims. They're hovering around zero maybe a little bit positive and long-term fuel trims? Where's our long terms zero and zero, but we're still in closed loop.
Also, pull them through the parking lot here and there was some on off throttle action. We saw a little bit of response from both sides and it looks like our switching pattern here is starting to emulate the known good sensor with a little bit more accuracy. So I'm I'm not getting hopeful, but I'm starting to see signs that that newish whatever sensor that was installed is uh, was simply faulty. We're on the accelerator about 30 miles per hour and again, we're looking for those patterns to emulate each other in match.
Half Raw Idle seems. uh, fairly responsive. Okay, okay, we have pulled over not scanning and recording and talking and driving and we can see that we are. We're in closed loop.
Let's go ahead and pull up Those Sensors We can see here that the Bank One and Bank two Downstream sensors have both become active. These are the ones that monitor the efficiency of the converters. And still, we're uh, we're seeing a extremely similar pattern between the sensor we just changed and the known Good sensor. Even when there's fluctuations like through, you know, accelerations and D cells, we're still seeing a very, very similar pattern here.
So that being said, I'm going to go ahead and back out of this and we're going to reset the fuel trims real quick. Let's take note that long terms and short terms are still hovering right around zero. So let me get back into that real quick. Long-term fuel trim. Bank One and Bank Two. Those are still hanging out right around zero. And our short terms we've got a three, six, four. Like, this is completely acceptable and we can see that short terms are switching high, low, and high low.
So I'm going to go ahead and back out and we're going to clear all of the uh, the engine data and uh, trouble codes and I'll continue, uh, the test drive. We'll revisit it when we get back to the shop. Clear codes continue appearing I Broke the rules. Engines running but codes are cleared.
Light is off. Let's just go back into code's menu to verify. So man, memory words: No, No, no, no I didn't want to abort What have I done? Okay, so yeah, that's the P1000. that's just saying.
Drive cycles are not complete yet. That'll go away after X amount of drive cycles. When it runs all the monitor tests on all the other systems, let's check pending codes, nothing pending. This is good and I'm going to pull data back up.
We're going to continue our test drive and we will review when we get back to the shop. Man, just because it's new doesn't mean that it's good. More Steam All right. pulling in went around the block a couple times.
Let's uh, let's go revisit uh, all of our data in a moment. All right guys. 30 minutes later, let's see what is going on here with all these fuel trims. So again, we're Bank One Sensor One that's the one we replaced that is Downstream in consequential Downstream inconsequential I Do find it odd that these two are just kind of hanging out, not doing anything again but the other one that's relevant Bank two Sensor one and we're seeing very similar patterns of switching and anytime there's an anomaly, it's mirrored by the other side, which tells me that that's just the engine doing its thing.
Maybe the AC compressor kicking on and off thermostat opening? who knows what? but from what I'm looking at so far, uh, that's a confirmed kill. The newish sensor that was installed was faulty and it was intermittently failing as I mentioned I witnessed it earlier and I apologize I wish I'd have caught it on camera, but I did not. Um, but uh, we're uh, we're looking good here, so let's revisit fuel trims one more time. You know, look at that slightly hanging out.
in the negative and short terms, they're switching just like they should be. Bank one and Bank two. All right guys, that's a confirmed kill. We're good to go.
I'm gonna go ahead and shot this down. uh I will drive this thing one more time in the morning and um, and then we'll go ahead and ship it. but I think we're good to go here if there's more on this. I'll update you guys later on.
So that being said, I'm going to close this video out and as always, I will do that by thanking each and every one of you for watching this video. Hope you enjoyed this video. If you did enjoy this video, you know the drill. Let me know about that by tapping that like button down below. Drop me a comment or two while you're down there. And most importantly, do not forget. Have yourselves great day! See you guys later. end of Rustang I mean I mean Mustang Mustang I I said I wouldn't call them Mustangs or Rustangs or junk stains, right? Yeah! I I said I Wouldn't make fun of them anymore so I'm gonna give it a break.
It's all in good fun though. See you guys later. End of transmission Oh I forgot powering down okay.
love these more difficult repairs… surprised you didn't comment on the biggest issue with the car is that it's an AUTOMATIC Mustang GT… smh
every time I see parts like this I just see some Engineer saying to someone, Why would they EVER need to replace that part?
New parts are supposed to be good. Difficult to make your brain ignore that it's new and go through diagnostics. Good work!
Ray y can't ppl put Auntie sees on that just asking Ray
F
Our friend Eric O says NEW means Never Ever Works.
Hit it with a fan to cool it down fast
The downstream sensors on closed loop are doing exactly what they should be when catalyst are working proper and doing their job. You wanna see very little movement or fluctuating voltage at idle, this also means that your cats are in good shape.
When I look for air leaks I use flammable spray (wd40) spray and see engine idle increase
jiggle the sensor wire
Ray: ten minutes of technical explanation about why it's the electronics and not the engine. Me: uuuuh…😵💫 The conclusion: You are very smart and obviously invested in a lot of training, and cars are just waaay to overcomplicated these days. Miss the old days when my brothers and I could monkey around with the timing and change out some spark plugs and get the thing running. So glad there's guys like you around who have the knowledge and ability to help us cope with these crazy new vehicles!
This is just a suggestion, you might try using your air compressor and blowing air across the exhaust right there. you may be able to cool it down enough to get your hand up in there to release that sensor.
A new sensor will temporarily fix the problem, but it will happen again
Put a factory air filter back in it
The way the intakes are designed , u can look at the runners the favor the driver side , this has been proven ,it dosent efect anything until u introduce extra air volume, I know it sounds stupid but I've been in this situation when putting cold air or aftermarket air filters on these mass air flow sensor ford engines,,,, as far as the check engine light ,that's about the time it takes 80 to 100 miles of driving to kick that code again
I will tell u from experience, ford uses the Mads air flow sensor, and I noticed the kn filter,those will absolutely mess with the ford system , without a tune to correct for the extra air , it will absolutely also mess with the os2 sensor, as the cannot compensate,
You really are an idiot
If it coming on intermittently either a vac leak that temperature related or the o2 going stupid when heated and cooled
Lot of time I use either denso or OEM O2 sensors…. Evap systems gotten super picky over time
Cylinder balance test and smoke the system
Maybe reset keep alive memory and drive it for short while and monitor fuel trims to see if they become normal. Also maybe force it rich and lean and watch the o2 responses
You mean the pass number that's written in engine oil on your keyboard ? That we could still see you type
I have a feeling you're confusing open and closed loop. in open loop the O2 sensor data is ignored by the ECU, in closed loop the O2 sensor data is used as feedback to tell the ECU the fuel mixture is good or not.
Interestingly, I've seen both P0171 and P2195 as indications of faulty cam timing. Either a belt jumped a tooth, a chain stretched or an adjustable timing sprocket not functioning optimal.
I don't know why engineers think about the end user when they design exhaust systems and O² sensor positioning because they could of mounted that sensor pointing downwards towards the starter, I've done a few cars where you have to physically remove exhaust systems to get at the sensor because it's too long and hits the body or engine part before it will unscrew fully.
The O2 sensor that was put in may have given the same data so it still could be the ecm.
Excellent diagnostics as usual you're the man have a great evening
So many of your problems could have been solved with a stubby wrench for that sensor. lol.
Four Non Blondes in the back ground
NEW stands for Never Ever Worked!
Hey that is Eric O's line from South Main Auto.. just because it's new doesn't mean it's good!
Can you use an air line to cool things down ? Does that work ?
For a new sensor that’s pretty crusty
Need to get you an AES Wave kit and make yourself a set of test lights. You can test wiring integrity all the way to the PCM with test lights.
Get a fan on it for a minute
Tiny cars are the bane of us who are over 6'+ in height (a.k.a. The 14%).
Do you have "Four non blondes" on a rotation at your shop? Almost every one of your videos has it playing in the background.
Yes, gloves are the key to not burning your hands. Good job. 👍🏻
Hopefully there is a box somewhere to return that defective sensor and the owner can get a refund? 🤷🏻♂️ Aftermarket sensors/electrical parts are unreliable.
4 Non Blondes again!!! The station he listens to would drive me nuts!
switch the plugs
I had a Bosch o2 sensor go bad on a JK after a year
Hey Rey…is it advisable or bad practice to use anti-seize on the threads of a O2 sensor?
i think it was a ebay special o2 sensor from china . i have been caught out by them before i learned to only have genuine o2 sensors .
Its another lesson about running out and buying the O2 sensor when the guy at Autozone does his freebie scan in the parking lot. Its the difference between a code reader and data stream.
👍🏻
Good job ray
I just asked GPT why the upstream O2 sensor is switching hi-lo. GPT answered that when that happens, the O2 sensor is broken. I repeated the same question again in other wording and still GPT remained by it's answer. Then I showed GPT a message that I found somewhere about the function of an O2 sensor (0.1 to 1.0 Volt, response time less than 300 ms). GPT then excused itself for the wrong answer and gave in fact the same answer that I found. Conclusion (this happened already a number of times): do not accept the answers from GPT right away, keep asking until you are satisfied…
the injector is clogged
..brohan :p
swapTHE SENSORS RAY ?
That is the sad part too many faulty new part's, a faulty thermal clutch fan lost my boss a contract because it overheated in the middle of the bush, all the best to you and your loved ones
Irregardless is not a word. Words.
You must really like 4 non blondes.
Those sirens during the O2 explanation sounded like a full on structure response they were laying into it hard. I'm glad I was still able to hear you over it.
Apologise! Mustangs are good cars!
I would say that the CAT on bank one is a little blocked due to overfuelling, It probably needs a good boot to the floor to clear its throat. Thats probably why the new sensor wasn't emulating bank 2 sensor. You could see the flow difference between the two on the post flow sensors initially.
NTK sensors are really the only option for aftermarket O2 sensors as most manufacturers get NTK to make them OEM especially FORD and Japanese car makers.
I once had a brand new Borg-Warner starter-circuit solenoid failed right out of the box.
One trick to see whether it's a sensor or a wiring issue would be to swap the Bank#1 sensor with its Bank#2 equivalent.
If the fault moves banks, then it's the sensor. If the fault stays in its original location, then it's not the sensor but something back up the chain, eg wiring or control modules.
What if you use a flexible ratchet spanner,?great job, all the best to you and your loved ones
LOL! 🤣 You said "irregardless"!!!! AGAIN!!!!
4.6 is a wonderful engine… Not a ton of power, but it's not a slouch. Very reliable.
I think with a small vacuum leak, higher rpms’s should drop the fuel trims.
Ray you look good in a mustang.. totally suits you, maybe you should get one 😛
dude…. always the same song on the radio…. 'whats up' with that? 🙂
Recommend ordering welders gloves just in case you're working in a hot area. Even a BBQ glove might do the job.
Thanks again Ray and family ❤️
Everything is bass ackwards on a Ford!
I used to point a fan at the hot area it will cool it down farely quick
Scotty Kilmer recommends Oxygen Sensor in a Can
You need to have Peter to come on as a guess so you can get a reach around! Lol
O2 sensor must have been a bad one. Or had a bad connection.
Really enjoy your videos…no more pony jokes 😉
Those snap-on scanner update speed is so slow it can be tricky to judge o2 sensor response rate. Hope you soon upgrade to a better scanner. It will help a lot in diagnostics. Many way better scanners for 1/3 the cost than those snappy ones. They are slow and expensive and just yesterdays tech.
You guys all deserve a pat on the back for making it this far!
purchase a welding blanket to protect your FLANGES.
Is it me or is 4 Non Blondes literally playing in every video?? 😂
I've been waiting for Ray to come up against one of these. A fastener that takes an offset wrench to get a bite, roll the wrench and get some more, flip the wrench for another, then back to the beginning for the next flat on the fastener. Rinse and repeat until frustrated.
Cotter keys and safety wire not curled up on nearby fasteners gouging the back of your hand, ones estimation of the heritage of the engineer and previous mechanic goes to a dark place.
I'll now slip in a please on a recalcitrant connector before going full sailor speak, (The phrase covers us past Marines, we honor some of their traditions) But I've learned a sense of Zen watching Ray. That and the GAF meter sometimes just pegs out low.
Keep up the good work Ray You give us all hope.
Look for a leaking dighpgram on the valve cover or stuck pcv valve.
Be safe team
You need some slim Wrenches Ray there only a few mm thick that would take care of the o2 sensor pretty easy @Rainman Ray's Repairs
😀
Bank 1 sensor 1 is definitely lazy not switching as fast as babk 2 sensor 1 i agree with you Ray bew sensor is faulty @Rainman Ray's Repairs
A wildfire lift and a mobile set of stairs would make life so much easier!
YOUR NUMBERING OF THE CYLINDERS IS INCORRECT. Ford numbers the passenger side from front of a V-8 1, 2, 3, 4, and the driver's side 5, 6, 7, 8. Chrysler and GM number as you showed but starting on the driver's side 1, 3, 5, 7 and passenger side 2, 4, 6, 8. I am absolutely sure that you already know this and just had a slip. Please show a correction.
NEW Means Never Ever Works IN The automotive World Lmfao the o2 sensor is faulty in my opinion seen that several times on these early 2000 year model mustangs @Rainman Ray's Repairs
Was sensor replaced with OEM? Or after market?
Junkstains lmao
Assuming you change to the proper new Motorcraft parts. It could still be short on the wires. Cant you test the wires for shorts to the ecm, and trigger a test lamp with your scan tool to make sure its not an open circuit. If I remember correctly the o2 harness comes up threw the floor pan with z large grommet the connector is under the passenger side carpets, .might not be true on this car but I belive it is.
Well I was both tottaly right and totally wrong. Don't put rice parts on American made cars. They no like it. Misfire long time.
I couldn't figure out where the firetruck was coming from…
What good would your computer password do fo anyone, unless they were sitting at your desk?
swap the left and right bank sensors, then if it's bank 2 playing up you know it's the new sensor.
I'm just thankful both my cars are EV's! I'm a gearhead and dealing with ICE vehicles seem so 19th century to me anymore. Ray, are you learning EV's?
That O2 sensor looks like it's crossed threaded the washer looks strange.
I have a PO171 and PO174 codes on mine and I know what it is. It is related to the Coupler between the Throttle Body and the Air Intake Box. The coupler is old and split in half but not ripped apart yet. Not fixing the P0171 or P0174 will cause other codes to set because it will introduce too much air and containments of unburnt fuel and air together. Now P0171 and P0174 has set a P0507 of IDLE TOO HIGH code. I know how to fix that too. My vehicle is a 2009 Nissan Murano.
Thanks Ray enjoyed the video, have a great day and take care of yourself and family and be Blessed ❤️❤️❤️👍.
Would like your opinion. I have a 2018 Subaru Outback w/e-brake. I have done my brakes for years ( I am 60+ now). I have witnessed 2 schools of thought on the e-brake when doing rear brakes on this critter. You need a scan tool ($$$$$) or you simply remove the e-brake, screw back in the caliper and put the e-brake back. Both ways SEEM to work, but is that bloody scan tool really necessary? Thanks for your insight. Watch you every day. Have picked up good info. 🙂
Ray a shot of break clean would cool down those parts in no time! 🙂
That P1000 is a big clue, nice catch! Knowing that someone has been there before is always good info, even if the customer doesn't tell you.
I totally dropped the ball on firing order. 1,2,3,4….5,6,7,8