Part 1: Parts Cannon!! Can it be saved? 95 Jeep Wrangler 4.0 https://youtu.be/XGx5cooQLQY
Part 2: Frustrating Diagnosis! It LIVES AGAIN! Jeep Wrangler 4.0 https://youtu.be/ZPBWAGcc-8M
Part 3: Old Jeeps Die HARD! Thermostatic Switch and Water Pump! 95 Wrangler 4.0
Part 4: Razor Sharp Gears!! NOT Good! Project Jeep 1995 Wrangler 4.0 https://youtu.be/Q5irXiktUbI
Part 5: Smallest Shaft Ever! FRIED Flywheel! | Project JEEP! 1995 Wrangler YJ https://youtu.be/p7x3vBUR-RQ
Part 6: Exhausting! Project Jeep YJ 4.0 Wrangler https://youtu.be/NHKetNC9LFs
New "Wife unit" T-Shirts & Designs for the Season! https://youtu.be/6T_32dnOgTg
Customer States: Engine barely runs and has a severe lack of power. It also has the occasional no start or long cranking before it starts. So far I've found vacuum leaks, clogged ports, antifreeze leaks from the water pump and the electric fan is damaged. I had the fuel pump, filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, and a distributor cap and rotor. It also has a new coolant temp sensor, O2 sensor, MAP, intake temp, IAC and throttle position sensor replaced. The ECM / PCM has been replaced too. See part one.
Visit my Second Channel on Youtube, RainmanRay Off Duty https://www.youtube.com/c/RainmanRayOutoftheShop
Follow on Twitter: @RainmanRay4Real
Check out Spicy Shorts on TikTok: www.tiktok.com/ @rainman_rays_repairs
Check out my Merchandise (because I don't say MERCH) for Men's and Women's Apparel, MUGS and Stickers! https://rainmanraysrepairs.myspreadshop.com/
Support the channel on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
Patreon is a "Tip Jar" I don't post much there, daily YT uploads are all that I can manage for now
Amazon List, must have for any toolbox!
ATD Tools 13782 10-Piece Triple Square Spline Bit Socket Set https://amzn.to/3RV2fUB
Same as Matco. Mountain 5-Piece Metric Double Box Universal Spline Reversible Ratcheting Wrench Set; 8 mm - 18mm, 90 Tooth Design, Long, Flexible, Reversible; MTNRM6 https://amzn.to/3OJTRp2
Mercedes BMW VW Wheel Stud Master Kit: https://amzn.to/3OszRaL
Bahco "Frustrated" Pliers AWESOME tool! https://amzn.to/3IfDeOa
Brake Caliper Compressor: https://amzn.to/3gQBuiB
My Camera Gear:
Gopro Hero 10 https://amzn.to/3AaxELe
Gopro Hero 9 https://amzn.to/3EKDcM1
Hero 9&10 Dual Battery Charger MUST HAVE! https://amzn.to/3g5KdAT
Flexible Camera Mount https://amzn.to/3Jywrk5
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. #commissionsearned.
Also, I personally use or have used the products featured in my links and only recommended them if I feel they are of good quality.
”Intro Music by Karl Casey @ White Bat Audio”
Thanks to Jesse for making the intro and graphic for us to enjoy!!!
“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
Part 2: Frustrating Diagnosis! It LIVES AGAIN! Jeep Wrangler 4.0 https://youtu.be/ZPBWAGcc-8M
Part 3: Old Jeeps Die HARD! Thermostatic Switch and Water Pump! 95 Wrangler 4.0
Part 4: Razor Sharp Gears!! NOT Good! Project Jeep 1995 Wrangler 4.0 https://youtu.be/Q5irXiktUbI
Part 5: Smallest Shaft Ever! FRIED Flywheel! | Project JEEP! 1995 Wrangler YJ https://youtu.be/p7x3vBUR-RQ
Part 6: Exhausting! Project Jeep YJ 4.0 Wrangler https://youtu.be/NHKetNC9LFs
New "Wife unit" T-Shirts & Designs for the Season! https://youtu.be/6T_32dnOgTg
Customer States: Engine barely runs and has a severe lack of power. It also has the occasional no start or long cranking before it starts. So far I've found vacuum leaks, clogged ports, antifreeze leaks from the water pump and the electric fan is damaged. I had the fuel pump, filter, spark plugs, ignition wires, and a distributor cap and rotor. It also has a new coolant temp sensor, O2 sensor, MAP, intake temp, IAC and throttle position sensor replaced. The ECM / PCM has been replaced too. See part one.
Visit my Second Channel on Youtube, RainmanRay Off Duty https://www.youtube.com/c/RainmanRayOutoftheShop
Follow on Twitter: @RainmanRay4Real
Check out Spicy Shorts on TikTok: www.tiktok.com/ @rainman_rays_repairs
Check out my Merchandise (because I don't say MERCH) for Men's and Women's Apparel, MUGS and Stickers! https://rainmanraysrepairs.myspreadshop.com/
Support the channel on Patreon: https://www.patreon.com/RainmanRaysRepairs
Patreon is a "Tip Jar" I don't post much there, daily YT uploads are all that I can manage for now
Amazon List, must have for any toolbox!
ATD Tools 13782 10-Piece Triple Square Spline Bit Socket Set https://amzn.to/3RV2fUB
Same as Matco. Mountain 5-Piece Metric Double Box Universal Spline Reversible Ratcheting Wrench Set; 8 mm - 18mm, 90 Tooth Design, Long, Flexible, Reversible; MTNRM6 https://amzn.to/3OJTRp2
Mercedes BMW VW Wheel Stud Master Kit: https://amzn.to/3OszRaL
Bahco "Frustrated" Pliers AWESOME tool! https://amzn.to/3IfDeOa
Brake Caliper Compressor: https://amzn.to/3gQBuiB
My Camera Gear:
Gopro Hero 10 https://amzn.to/3AaxELe
Gopro Hero 9 https://amzn.to/3EKDcM1
Hero 9&10 Dual Battery Charger MUST HAVE! https://amzn.to/3g5KdAT
Flexible Camera Mount https://amzn.to/3Jywrk5
As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. #commissionsearned.
Also, I personally use or have used the products featured in my links and only recommended them if I feel they are of good quality.
”Intro Music by Karl Casey @ White Bat Audio”
Thanks to Jesse for making the intro and graphic for us to enjoy!!!
“All the videos, songs, images, and graphics used in the video belong to their respective owners and I or this channel does not claim any right over them.
Copyright Disclaimer under section 107 of the Copyright Act of 1976, allowance is made for “fair use” for purposes such as criticism, comment, news reporting, teaching, scholarship, education and research. Fair use is a use permitted by copyright statute that might otherwise be infringing.”
So I figure it's a good time to go ahead and uh, get those bearings pressed on? Uh, onto the differential. So what we're gonna do is one of the bearings that came in the kit. I've got another one right here. What we're going to do.
Let's go ahead and set these up into position and see how the size of the hammer is pretty close to the size of that bearing. A couple good Hard Solid wax and that should dry that thing right on there. Okay you guys ready, it's gonna be perfect. Watch this one hit and it's going to be on opening.
Z Hood Thank you Hi everybody good day to you! Welcome back! We are uh coming up in the final chapters of project Jeep I Just got a whole bunch of deliveries here and we're gonna go ahead and unpack them. I uh I got myself into actually some a little bit of trouble with this Jeep uh if you guys recall I I made an offer that if a certain video got x amount of uh likes and or subscribe buttons pressed then I would up gear upgrade. words I Would upgrade that blown up rear differential that we found. see all these uh the gears are chewed up and sharpened to like razor sharp points I Had a lot of pin pin wear or wear in the pin on the carrier here and we found some crusty feeling bearings.
So I was going to go ahead and rebuild this anyway. The deal was if you guys liked and subscribed enough I Was going to upgrade this open rear differential with a a locking differential. So that happens to be a Dana 30 rear end. and it has all kinds of uh of locking differentials that you can purchase to upgrade that to a a limited slip which is what I got here we go.
Very nice and shiny looking within this case. we've got a few gears and there's a set of clutches on either side and when this unit detects wheel spin uneven speeds between the two sides, it'll engage those clutches and then lock both Wheels together creating a limited slip differential. Now there were plenty of these on the market. The issue that I had is and I should have done my research.
This Jeep is equipped with a 307 gear ratio ring and pinion sets. Okay That's our ring gear. It's the ring that goes around the differential carrier and then the pinion gear is the one up here in the front of the differential. Let me get a good good zoom in on it.
That's the pinion gear right there. That's a 307 to 1 ratio and that means for every 3.07 times that that pinion gear turns, it will turn the ring gear one time. Now, the part where I got myself in trouble is all of the available options for an upgraded limited slip differential are only available in a three I think it's a 356 and numerically higher ratio. Therefore, they won't work with the 307 ring gears.
probably because the size of the actual ring gear itself is too small to fit around around this carrier right here. So that put me in a very sticky situation because what I was not prepared to do was make an offer, have the YouTube Community fulfill their into the deal and then I bail out at the last minute and go oh well, it's not available so I can't do it. So uh, I chose to not go that route. but what I did do is go ahead and order the bearing kit. This was to the Dana 35. that's the rear. Looks like we've got pinion bearings and pinion seals and I think these are the the carrier bearings. These may or may not be the axle seals I'm not sure yet.
those are the bolts that actually Bolt the ring gear to the carrier and along with this service kit, I got a duplicate kit for the front axle and to solve the problem of the gear ratio I ended up ordering from Yukon gear to go with this: Eaton limited slip a different ratio ring and pinion set. so it looks like what I'm going to be doing is re-gearing this to a 356 gear changing the pinion. Actually this one's tiny. That might be for the front.
Yeah, that one's for the front. because since I have to re-gear it to make this Locker or this limited slip fit in the rear, that means I'm going to have to re-gear the front also. Oh wait wait wait, hang on. Hang on.
This might be it. Yeah, that's the bigger opinion. that's for the rear. That's what I needed.
Now here's the cool part. I Have to sweep the deal. This is where I got myself in trouble because I was not able to re-ring here just the front with this set of Gears with the stock differential. I Ended up ordering a replacement differential for both axles.
So we've got two differentials, two ring gears, two pinions, and two sets of rebuild bearings. Now, while we're unboxing all this stuff, let's make sure everything fits. So this is our small pinion. That's the small differential.
This is the stuff for the Dana 30 up front. Let's get that foam out of there. We don't want that. Yep, Yep, Yep, these are gonna fit just fine.
Let's make sure the bolts line up and they do nice. This is going to be really nice when it's all done and put together. We'll move you over here. Here's the Dana 30 service set and what we need is the bolts out of it.
So let's go ahead and get those guys out and we'll bolt this ring gear to the diff right now. I'll get everything assembled and then we can get everything installed. look at there. We even got a bunch of shims.
Nice. It's kind of a tight squeeze on that gear. I would never ever do this with a metal or even a brass hammer. This is a rubber dead blow.
I Can do this just making it, pressed it around and seat like it should be and then I can flip it over and it won't fall good. Make sure these are all lining up. What do you guys think? Threadlock? No thread lock. I Better put some thread lock on this.
Okie Dokes. Let's run these things down. Apply some torque. It's tight squeeze.
I Don't like that it's not gonna work for me and that's because it's not a 17 millimeter standard size. that's an 11 16. let's try again. Better.
Whoa. Got a little weebie wobbly That's one unit put together? Let's uh. let's get this back in its box for now. Safe keeping I Want to get the next unit pre-assembled or assembled? Not reassembled. It's never been assembled. All right. There's our gear. Yeah, that's what I was what I was gonna do.
We'll get the holes lined up or not. Oh, it's on there now. I don't know how I just did that, but I did it come off tight? squeeze? Okay, put a couple bolts in to hold it and align everything. Then I can flip it over and tap it together.
That's what I was aiming for. Good. Okay, that's two ring gears installed on two limited slip differentials. you know? I figured well I've got this out.
I have the parts kits here now. Would be a good time to. uh, go ahead and press these bearings on. What do you guys say? Okay, what we're gonna need next is I figure it's a good time to go ahead and uh, get those bearings pressed on.
Uh, onto the differential. So what we're gonna do as one of the bearings that came in the kit? I've got another one right here. What we're going to do. Let's go ahead and set these up in the position and see how the size of the hammer is pretty close to the size of that bearing.
A couple good Hard Solid wax and that should drive that thing right on there. Okay, you guys ready. it's gonna be perfect. Watch this one hit and it's going to be on.
Yeah. I'm just kidding you guys. I would never do such a thing I've got a press. No worries.
Yeah. I Would never, ever, ever, ever ever ever do such a thing. God No, no, never. Anyway, let's put this thing on the press and press this bear again.
Okay, let's set this thing up. Oh perfect. Almost perfect fit. Close very close there we go.
Let that guy in right there. set our bearing up and I need some kind of adapter? I've got some steel around here standby. Okay, here's what I'm gonna do. We'll just slide this piece of uh Steel in right here and that'll be enough to hang on to this or press against while the Jack comes down.
and then once it's down a little further, the bearing I can switch the steel out to a piece of to like a socket. Something that fits a little better. going right on down nice and smooth. I don't even have to switch to a socket I Don't think okay, foreign, a little bit more.
I do need a some kind of a socket right here to press down. Here we go. I've got an adapter for my ball joint press. that should you know? Yeah? I don't know I don't have any space.
Okay, let's try something here. Let's get this guy out. now. Do I have space? Kind of.
We're getting closer. Oh, you couldn't see I pulled uh, one of these big plates out and I put that piece of Steel in because this is much thicker than this and I'm still a little bit short on Space here. Yeah, I've got something. Check it out.
It's my brake caliper depressor. I'll just take one of the pieces from this and use that as my uh, my little shim. Check this out. Like so yeah, now we're cooking I Like it. are we going? Yep, it moved, It moved, it moved some more and that bearing is seated against the differential. Perfect. And then we'll just flip it over and repeat with the other bearing. Okay, let's get that slipped back into position right here.
Sure, there is no debris, we don't want that and then, uh, where's that other bearing? There she is, you know I wonder? Yep, that works too. Perfect. Center That as much as possible, we don't want it going on. Sideways Yeah, this is going nice and smooth.
If you're ever pressing something and it gets real tough to to make your part move or it starts to bind or things move, then you're you're doing it wrong and you're out of alignment and should stop immediately and uh and reevaluate. It's usually press fit items don't require boatloads of force to, uh, get them to go together. Okay, it's 90 of the way there I Just need a little bit more. So again, let's switch out our plates.
The big one out here, put the little one in and yes, I'm aware that's a very small plate and is probably very easily bendable, but for the amount of force that this requires, it's not too terrible. There we go. centered again. this is pressing on the inner race of this bearing has nothing to do and it's not pressing on the differential, just on the bearing.
All right, we're reset going in for the final press cap. Good to go. Okay, let's pull that out. Set that aside, let's take our diff unit with us back to the roll card workbench.
so we're a little ahead of schedule for this part. But like I said, while I've got the the parts out and uh, I was unboxing them I Figured, why not? We'll go ahead and assemble these units a little bit, put these back in the boxes for now, and let's go ahead and put the bearings on the front differential as well. All right. both bearings pressed onto the front differential here.
We're not going to need this until we do the pinion, so let's move that aside. Let's go ahead and lift this thing back up and we're going to go back to the rear axle and we're going to pull the pinion shaft out of the rear differential housing. Jeep Moving on up. Okie Dokes.
What we need to do is pull that nut off of this yoke, pull the Yoke off the pinion, and then drive the pinion out through the back of the differential. All right. So my socket set goes from 24 to 27. So I'm going to bet it's 27.
Negative: 29. dang. I Just lost a bet to myself. Yeah, that's 29.
Rapid on clicks, no puller necessary. It fell apart Good. Okay, let's move around back and fetch that opinion out of there. See what we've got to play with Light? Oh yeah, look at that.
Check out the bearings. They're all chewed up right here in the center and at the base. Yeah, that bearing is junk. Okay here, let's go back. and uh, pull the front pinion bearing and check that one with pry bar. You get the seal out of there too because we're not reusing that, it's gonna come out. Wow, That's a it's in there. Got it? Okay, there's our seal.
Nothing special. Actually came out. uh, without damage. How about that? And here is the bearing.
This one looks. No. that one's junk too. Yep.
Destroyed. Destroyed. Destroyed. This whole axle is destroyed.
Well, no, no, no. not the whole axle. But the, uh. the bearings.
The bearings are destroyed. The axle is good. I'm not creating a problem by talking. No, All right.
So while we're here, what we're gonna do is: I'm gonna go around the back side and I'm gonna remove this race for this front pinion bearing. I'm just going to tap on it with a long chisel and it should come right on out of there taking care of course and not damage the case. switch sides a little bit, move it up to the top a little bit bottom. next.
I'm going to drive out the inner pinion bearing race. Ding! Text message: I'm making sure that the end of this chisel is only in contact with the bearing or the bearing race and it's not hitting the differential housing. If you chew up the housing by hammering on it, you've ruined the housing. Foreign.
I Feel it moving? I See it moving? Is it going to come out? It's almost out there. It Is Got it all right. So that's both pinion bearing races removed. You can see plenty of damage on that one too.
See that? Look at all that in there. That's uh, it's not good. I'm gonna clean off the rest of this nonsense right here. gasket material and blue silicone.
and I'm going to clean this all out one more time. Spray it out, Get rid of all the debris that way. I'm not pressing new parts into a dirty work environment. spray it out later.
But why? why add risk factor? It's just a little scrubby, not abrasive kind of cleaning wheel. I believe it's called rollock 3M makes these. You guys always ask about them Scotch Brite Scotch Brite roll off bristle disc. That's what it is I don't have a part number if you Google that you can find those not aggressive enough.
All right. I'm switching discs. This one's a it's not sandpaper. It's like those green scrubby pads for washing dishes.
Put on a little ziz wheel. a little more aggressive and since this is steel, we can be a little bit more aggressive. There we go. Really nice and shiny.
Looks looking good, much more better. However, there is a bunch of dust and dirt and stuff in there. We got to clean that out too. All of it up top, in the holes, down the tube flushed out from the bottom of the drain.
Thank you! Now we think this is clean, don't we? What we didn't do is go all look at that. Look at all that metal that was in there hanging out. We washed away a bunch of debris and we unlocked the boss level of the metal chunks. Look at that. it's all a bearing material. Always got to go back and try to wipe manually after some kind of a catastrophic failure. Oh more of it on the other side. Look at that.
Yeah I need to I need to blow this out with the air gun and then clean it again. That's like how you blow up a brand new parts. That would have been instant destruction. All right I Think we're good.
All right. One more rinse and then we can think about putting those uh, pinion bearing races back in shiny. Okay, here is our inner bearing race. It's a very, very tight fit.
We'll get that started and then I'll go in with a race driver, send it home. However, seeing as how I don't have one, we're just going to use a big socket. Is that uh, that'll drive that thing in no problem. See that works.
It did not require a hammer of Thor Level of aggression all right now. I Believe that is flush all the way. Let's go around to the front side and uh, we'll check it and see if it is actually sitting flush and survey says yeah, yeah, we're good to go on this. I think I know Lighting in there is terrible but yeah, looks very flush to me.
Yep, now you can see it. There it is. That's what we're looking for. Okay, that one's good.
Let's go ahead and get the front bearing in front bearing race. In words: all right now. Listen: I'm aware that uh, there's a large quantity of folks telling me not to do this and it's a bad idea. I'm aware I hold the risk here.
If I slip up and I damage this race, then I have to punch it out and get another one I have a bearing race installation device and it is does not accommodate these races I don't have time to order another one so this is going to work out just fine in my estimation because again, I I assume all the risk cannot see due to Shadows that was good. Move it in I think it's about there. Yeah, it's getting close. I'm not doing this with a sharp chisel.
It's a very, very blunt rounded chisel. That way it doesn't Uh Mar that bearing and deform it. Oh there we go. Did you see that one go in? That was good.
It even squirted at the end there. Okay, both pinion races are installed. This is good. Okay, so we have the pinion coming in.
The inner bearing is installed. Here's our outer bearing. both races are installed. I Should put this.
uh, the seal in and then I'll use the Yoke to pull that bearing or pull the pinion into place. Bad Bad man. All right. So we'll get the yolk lined up and that when I tighten this down, it's going to press that bearing down on that shaft.
That's what we need. Remember there's a new Crush Washer in place and we're not going to crush it just yet again. We're just mocking this up for right now. So you still weebi wobbly, still weevy, wobbly too much.
Weebly Hmm, it's not right. Hang on back up. I Know it's not right. unclick. There were two seals that came in this kit and uh, one of them is the one I want and this is not it. All right. Let's get this seal out of here. That's not the one we wanted.
it's a different design. I don't like it coming out kind of coming out in pieces. Foreign. that was one piece.
there's two piece. okay. the Seal's out. again.
attempt to number two. Let's try this seal. nice and even like. Okay, let's see how this one works out.
That's better now. I can tighten it down some without uh, bottoming it out on the seal. Yeah, we're not setting preload or anything. See the Crush Washer hasn't even crushed yet.
Not yet. Close though. we're actually really, really close. Yeah, there's I Can't feel any more play in it.
That's good. All righty. What I want to do next is I want to mock this up and just get a general idea for how it's going to fit. Got both of the the bearing races over our carrier bearings here I'm just trying to kick this guy in.
uh, naturally, they need to be shimmed quite a bit. Actually, they're way off and I think I'll put in one of the Caps just to make sure this thing doesn't fall out. Is this gonna work? Yes No Maybe It's a little flippity floppy right now. Let's get another one of these caps in there.
That one feels good. What I don't want to do is slip up and let this thing fall out and hit the ground because then I'm gonna be up a creek. A deep one. Yep, that's a much more better.
Earth hit switching over to the driver's side and I'll put the other shim back in again. We're just getting an idea for what kind of fitment we're dealing with here. See, that's pretty tight. It's actually almost feeling kind of perfect.
Let's put this cap back on and I'll put a little bit of torque on these and then we'll uh, we'll spin it around and just see how well it or how it feels. We'll see how it feels I know you guys can't feel it, but I can feel it. Not bad so far. See what the backlash feels like? Oh, that's very minimal backlash.
I'm reaching in and turning the pinion. It has almost no backlash. It feels nice I wonder if I got it perfect on the first try? What do you guys think did I make it? It's not a chance. I'm totally gonna have to set this up with the gauges I'm gonna go ahead and put some gear paint on this and we're gonna spin it around a couple times to check the the pattern on these gears.
and if I find out that it's actually looking good and the pattern is right, then I'm just going to set the pinion preload and uh, we're gonna let this ride I mean I got my hopes up I it might not work out that way and I may have to set this up uh with all the indicators but if I can, uh, if I can get this right then it's gonna stay because if it works, it works right? So what we're gonna do, we're gonna do forward when I'm I'm gonna hang on to this and create some friction. I'm going to rotate the pinion and as uh oh I need a little bit more paint as this painted section makes its way past the pinion gear, it's gonna rub and change this. uh, or it's going to imprint the pattern on these gears right here there. And if the pattern is within spec then uh, we know everything's set up the way it should be. See what our gear pattern looks like? Show me the money. All right. Here's our pattern right here. Like you're here.
That's uh, that's actually a sweet pattern that looks really good on the drive side. Um, what we're gonna need is a very similar pattern on the coasting side. Now let's spin this back the other way and uh, see what kind of pattern it gives us on the coast side. So we're gonna go back past the painted portion again and we're going to go into reverse.
We got okay, so it picked up some paint on the reverse side and that's a pretty decent pattern. Look right here where it started. Nice perfect oval I'm gonna I'm gonna let this ride I'm gonna set up preloads and uh I think this is gonna stay I like this I'm uh, presently and shockingly surprised that that seems to fit. but I mean this is it's a nice fit.
However, I am going to go ahead and wash off all this gear paint. We don't need this. goodbye your paint. Good use for the low pressure spray.
Clean all right? Well listen. so now that this is all bolted in, let's have some fun. I Have my uh, my gun over here on the front of the uh, the pinion. Let's just watch it work because that's pretty nice I Like it couldn't help myself I Had to do it.
Okay, so a couple days have gone by ready to do a little bit more work on. Project Jeep here. I've got a couple rear axle bearings and some rear wheel seals. Let's unbox these guys and make sure that they're the right ones.
looks like they are. Let's go ahead and drive these guys in. Then we'll put the seals in and uh, at that point, um, we're good to get this rear axle reassembled. Oh, for the record, these are National bearings.
Uh, the ones that we put in the differential. Those were Timken bearings. So uh, it's all brand name goodies. So I'm gonna do this, tap it in a little bit, then I'm going to take the old bearing clean all this nasty off of there and I'll use the old bearing to drive in the new bearing.
Clever No. without smashing my fingers, that one came close. So the rear end is set up. Now you'll notice I'm putting some some bearing grease on these bearings here.
A lot of folks won't do this. They'll just let the uh, the oil from the differential lubricate those bearings. My issue is is how long does it take for that oil to actually reach these bearings once you install everything and I figured, uh, you know, a quarter mile of driving before that gets, uh, saturated with a lubricant is unacceptable? So I have supplied a break-in lubricant. Okay, axle shaft is ready to go in, it's been cleaned off, it's been wiped down, all the debris is removed. The Uh. the actual bearing surface is in good condition. There's a couple little grooves in there, but I cannot feel them with my fingernail, which tells me that they're not deep enough to cause any kind of ceiling issue. So let's get our axles inserted, our axle on this side inserted, and then we'll go around to the passenger side and a repeat set procedure.
That's one. Move on over, get that other bearing installed, and then get the second shaft installed. I've already taken the liberty of cleaning up this drum brake as well. Give that a good wipe looking good.
The tube's clean inside, new bearing time. We're just going to tap it on in foreign without hitting the fingers. All right. Second axle prepped, ready to go, moving on in, the best thing in position and then, uh, we'll go back to the differential and set up the clips that retain these.
Let's move on over. I Think we're gonna reuse the uh, the factory C-clips Ah, there we go. That's what I'm looking for. See the uh tops of the axles there? I've got the notch for the C-clip All right.
Here's how this is gonna go. We're gonna slide this C-clip into that little notch and then once that's in position, we pull the axle back out and this clip will ride inside of a Groove that's machined into this housing. It's a very tight squeeze in there. Foreign.
super tight like a bunch of tigers get in. Negative: Not in there. It is. Now it's in.
Let's pull that back out. See how the, uh. the clip disappeared into the housing? Now that's retained. We have to do the same thing over here on the driver's side.
And then we put the retainer in the actual differential itself. All right. Axle Number Two: Push that all the way in. and then we get our clip in.
Oh, clip. Gravity: Ah. I Got it dirty Again, Hang on. Bear with me here guys.
Thank you. Super tight squeeze. Please go in there it is. Tink And then we pull it out and it's retained.
Stuff: This is a non-factory piece. This little button spacer thing right here. This is part of the Eaton differential that's going to hang out in there. and that's going to prevent these axles from working their way their way inwards.
words, and uh, and allowing those clips to fall out. Then we plug off that whole assembly. This little plug right here. and that is retained with a snap ring.
There's a groove cut and machined into the housing just in front of the face of this little plug and that's designed to snap into it and retain that little little plug right there. So so basically, we have a retainer for a retainer. For a another retainer that holds two more retainers that holds the axle in. That's how that works.
It's like compound retainers. Sequential compound retainers. There we go. Now it's gonna work. Yep, sure is. Oh, gravity. Is it all the way in the groove here here? Yep. everybody's in.
You go spray this out one more time. Thank you. Check out that uh, that in play Fifteen thousands I Think oh foreign. All right guys.
let's back up some. I'm about ready to put the cover on. Got a gasket cleaned off all the material. There's a lot of silicone and there there's a gasket siliconed to the cover and then that was silicone.
Again to the case. So we eliminated all that and we're just using a gasket. this being a high-end differential. I'm not going to load this up full of sealant stuff because chances are this is going to be removed and replaced often for maintenance purposes because we don't want to have uh, that nice shiny differential swimming around in a bunch of really gross worn out fluid.
So this is going to be a maintained extensively in the future to preserve its awesomeness at least I Hope it will a couple more to go. Nice. All right. It's about ready for uh for some oil if I get that off right? Driver? All right? it's about ready for some oil.
All right. Next job. Get that guy in there. that's our, uh, our fill hose.
We've got five gallons of a 80 90 here and a little pumper. It's uh, easier and more cost effective than uh, the little bottles. Oop there it goes. That's fantastic.
And I'm just gonna pump this thing. Oh, we got leakage. Yeah, we're gonna fill this guy up. We fill it until it runs out of the top of the fill hole right here and when it runs out, it's going to drain on that radiator.
And as soon as it, uh, that happens, we know we're good. And it is Full Pumping Pumping Z80 90. should be pretty close. Let's check it.
Almost a couple more pumps. Are we there yet? Nope. a couple more whoa. Hose came off.
Ah, that's not good. Yeah, now I'm all lubricated. It's not supposed to happen. I was pumping too fast and I lost control of the hose.
spilled everywhere. Oh, looked over there. some shot over there. it's on the wall.
Oh well, at least I didn't get any on me. I think we're about full. Yep, there it is. Now we're full dribbling.
Okay, so what I'm gonna do I'm going to rotate these axles and that's going to saturate those gears inside. Let everything get nice and oil soaked. Let all the fluids spread around. It's already sounding more quieter.
There we go. Pull this guy out. we don't need you right now. Gorgeous.
Everything's covered in lubricant. Let's put the uh, the cap that I lost gravity. Very clean gravity. Let's fill that guy back up.
Plug this thing back in Oh, it's totally silent now I Don't hear anything now that it's all got Lube on it. Excellent I am pleased with this. I Can't wait to take it on the road. All right guys! So the runny rear end is buttoned up, axles are in differentials in pinions. In all the bearings, races and seals have been replaced, this axle back here is good to go. This video is good to go! I'm gonna go ahead and close this one out. Seems like a good stopping point to me. I'm gonna pick back up later on over here on the front side because we have to do a very similar procedure to the Uh the front axle here after that I need to go through and button up a few loose ends I Get the drive shafts back on, see if there's anything else that catches my attention and then we're gonna go hit the road and do one finalized test drive of our project.
Jeep So again and as always like, thank you for watching this video. Hope you enjoyed this video and I hope you enjoy the series aptly named project Jeep If you did enjoy any of those, please feel free to let me know about that in the comment section down below while you're down there. don't forget to tap that like button! And most importantly, do not forget to have yourselves a great day! See you guys later in. the transmission.
ReeeeEEEEEEEEEEEEeeeeee! Those are TruTrac differentials! They have no clutches!
Lsd axles shift a portion of the torque to the wheel with the most traction and limit the slip on the wheel with the least. Hence limited slip, aka torque sensing thus both wheels spin at different speeds. Its not a locking dif where both wheels get the same torque spinning at the same speed.
Oh no, you lost control of the hoes and they squerted everywhere
Idk why but I think it's cool whenever you speed up the video but keep your audio at the regular speed. I'm so happy you super successful in your own shop.
I hate to see anyone waste money on a Dana 35….That's the wrong axle for that application. Should have gone with a Dana 44 or a Ford 8.8. Still love the show, Ray.
Well,now that you've re-geared,and rebuilt the axles into a near perfect 4wd set-up, perhaps some 35" inch Super Swampers,to better handle the Florida terrain would be next in line!!😎😎😎
Well,now that you've re-geared,and rebuilt the axles into a near perfect 4wd set-up, perhaps some 35" inch Super Swampers,to better handle the Florida terrain would be next in line!!😎😎😎
I have that press and replaced the jack for a pneumatic over hydraulic jack. Makes the press faster and you can use the hydraulic for the "fine" work.
I’m so neurotic that I’d have to flush out the axle tubes after finding all those metal shavings.
I had to walk off that dirty yoke, it was triggering my oc-reeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee. 😆
😂 hahaha “long chisel”
Posi on front and back? On dry payment that will get a little squeaky and jumpy until you disengaged, won’t it?
I build axle Assemblies for a living and I can tell you this one will fail. There are so many wrongs in this setup. Back lash should be .005-.008". the pattern is not very good. Pinion depth is about .005" shallow. Pinion preload should be set with out crush sleeve and carrier during mock up, and then after pattern and back lash is set to proper specs. You need to disassemble and set preload with the crush sleeve and no carrier installed. And then do your final install of carrier and axles. I always check pattern once more after crush sleeve to be sure
"I was pumping too fast and lost control of the hose!" "Oh look, it shot over there, it's on the wall, oh well, at least I didn't get any on me."
We've all been there, right?
😂😅
As a Jeep owner myself, this is very educational. If I go to larger wheels/tires in the future, regearing would likely be a must, and it is nice to see what that process involves. Thank you for the awesome content!
Ray I love your channel. Had a shop for 28 years in Brooklyn New York. All that work looks great but you changed everything i would have but you should have used axel bearing savers. Would have been like changing the axles also
Good way to drop that new bearing race on, is to heat up the inner ring. It will fall right on. No hammering required
I heard some MASTER OF PUPPETS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Don't they always squirt when you get it all the way in?! 🤣
Those bearings should have been lubed with assembly lube before installing. just saying.
Awesome job as usual. But you need to finish the job right (paint the housing cover 😉)
You use an arbor press to seat the bearings…..Not A Hammer…..Dooh!….Jeesus..I was ready 'ta scream…..
are all jeeps just have rubber bug for the diff if so that's not good the type of 4x4ing I do it would ripped in the mud and diff oil would be every where
I enjoyed the video as always. However, I'm getting ready to replace pinion and carrier bearings in my old Jeep Grand Cherokee and I will go more by the book than what Ray showed in the video. He may have done it by the book but he didn't show it or discuss it. He failed to mention pinion depth calculations for new gear set. Nor did he mention how critical it is to get the carrier bearing retaining caps reinstalled and oriented in original position and orientation. I know paint pattern looked pretty good so he either did it by the book or he is dang lucky. Not a torque wrench to be seen. I recommend other, more detailed videos + reading vehicle service manual if you really want accurate knowledge.
Can anyone find a TCM (T14) for 2011 gmc 2500hd lml?
I've always been impressed with your videos, however I was disappointed by this one.
1) You never showed how you adjusted the pinion bearing preload and the collapsible spacer.
2) It is normal to check mesh and check shims before the final pinion fitment and tightening down on the collapsible spacer.
3) I didn't see you fit the shim in the diff on the passenger side, nor how you chose the driver's side shim. How did you ensure there was clearance with the tapered-roller bearings
I guess it would have made the video much longer, but these steps are crucial in assembling a differential, and I was looking forward to seeing these aspects done by a pro.
I agree that you don't need a DTI to measure gear backlash, I felt you had the clearance pretty spot on.
If only that hose had some sort of protective band to secure it…. something like a hose…. clamp.
Wow quit pumping fast and checking and checking 5-10 pumps wait 10 second keep pumping it will pour out when it’s full seal it tip the axle side to side then ur done lmao u should know this repair man adhd much love ya tho
Somewhere someone had a stroke when u used ur impact to spin the pinion there like wtf where’s the lube?!?! Lol prolly be fine but not the wisest thing I’ve seen u do and u can tilt the diff left to right to lube ur inner bearing u don’t need grease on those especially that much u can but it just makes a mess everyone is a bit different. I’ve found the bearings like lube inside the cage more then on the smooth surface again in a diff that’s what the oil is for u just take a high horse and tilt the axle from the shocks side to side or do it when it’s on the ground always works never had one fail
It hurt my heart to watch you work on top of that shiny white tool box. Where's your work bench? enjoy your videos Ray. Keep em comming.
If so ill send you my info. And you can give me the details
Is that whote toolbox for sale?
PLEASE HIRE YOURSELF A APRINTENCE TO CLEAN AND PAINT PARTS AND TO HAND YOU TOOLS ALSO AS A SAFETY FACTOR. PASS YOUR SKILLS DOWN, AND MAYBE FIND A SHARP YOUNG GUY TO LEARN THE TRADE THEN START GIVING HIM WORK %$ BY THE JOB. YOU SHOULD BE ABLE TO FIND A SOBER, SANE ONE THAT WANTS TO HAVE A TRADE. HELL, THE STATE MIGHT SUBSIDISE HIS TRAINING. NO BETTER WAY TO LEARN. I WENT TO WORK IN A FORD SHOP AS A LINE MECH. BUT CLEANED AND PAINTED EVERYTHING NEW BOLTS ETC. GOT QUITE A FOLLOWING FOR LITTLE EFFORT. LIKE IT WAS MY OWN RIDE. I LOVED TO SEE THE LOOK ON THEIR FACE WHEN THEY POPPED THE HOOD. WORD OF MOUTH MEANS EVERYTHING TO YOUR SHOP BEING SUCCESSFUL LONG TERM. I WAS LUCKY TO HAVE A GREAT TEACHER IN MY DAD. I BUILT MY FIRST 4 CYL ENGINE WHEN I WAS JUST 13 Y/O. A 51 HENRY J.
Wondering ? Early on in the Jeep Project you pointed out that the lug nut studs were not long enough for the wheel spacers / So my question is why did you not replace the stock studs when the axles were out . Or are the wheel spacers going into the trash can.🤔
I would have done a couple more things: C-clip eliminators to prevent axles from coming out if one breaks; before assembly I would have welded the axle tubes to the center section in case the factory joint isn't good; install finned cover to help reject heat.
"Always gotta go back and try to wipe manually after some kind of a catastrophic failure."
That's good advice with multiple applications.
I did not hear an unclick when the seal came out
Is there some way we can get you a huge reservoir of brake clean attached to a pressure washer?
The best way to put the bearings on is to put the new bearings into an over at 200 degrees for about an hour then they go on much better
Awesome job ❤️😎👌👍
Any real mechanic will caution you about banging on those bearing races with steel. Use a brass drift next time, aluminum, brass, bronze, something softer than the steel, Ray. GG Yall. Go put the screws into the proper holes…. duh
After watching this, I'm gonna guess you maybe don't do a lot of differentials.
When general mechanics get involved with assembling and setting up differentials, great comedy is always the result! Too bad the customer always pays the price.
nice…son & I worked on his rear dif on 2002 Jeep Liberty. sounds like we'll be working on front dif when he returns from college.
gear oil money shot!!🤣🤣🤣
Yes, no sense in putting silicone on the rear cover gasket. You will probably be pulling it "for maintenance" when those glass Dana 35 axle shafts fail soon, very soon. Love the show though!
Not sure how you chose the shims by crushing the crush sleeve before even checking a pattern.
Dam good joy Ray. You are getting there, Im
enjoying the Build on the Jeep.
Uh oh, watching this a few days late and it looks like the ring gear bolts went into the wrong holes. Really hope it's a non-issue but Jeep axles seem like they might see some back and forth action instead of only really seeing power in drive like most cars
Another way to get a bearing race in is to take the old race and turn it around to match–then hammer on the old race. This will work with a lot of other things too.
Today I learned the company that makes my electrical receptacles and panels makes car parts. That's different
Well I can Rebuild 4×4 Differentials in my Sleep on my RC Traxxas Trucks 😆 🤣 Actually the Basic engineering concept is very similar after watching your Differential Video 📹 just in a much smaller scale. I have videos on my page but its a Hobby not a Living. That Jeep 🚙 is going to be a Beast when your finished Hope its yours
Ray I use a air hammer to remove and install bearing races. Want some wees try that. Your missing a clamp on the pump hose where it blew off.
All this self admitted fckin' up makes me feel ill at ease . .
What about friction modifier for the limited slip?
Another way to remove bearing cups, run a bead of weld around the middle of the bearing surface, let it cool and the race will just fall out.
limited slip additive, or was it already in the 80,90 wt
Bearing races start their service life in the freezer to shrink them just enough to make them easy to push in by hand without needing impacts.
I like to heat up my bearings in an electric frypan filled with ATF to expand the bearing so it slides onto the differential carrier real nice.
No press needed. They seat down where I want them and then cool and shrink on to the carrier and the only way to get them off is to cut them off with a grinder.
If I was going to change the ring and pinion in my YJ, I would at least go with a 4.56 or 4.88. That way you could run 33"-35" tires and still have a useable high gear.
Wow. Keeping up your end. Rehearing both axles and the speedo! You the man!
USE YOUR RACE DRIVER WORKS GOOD FOR ME
The drive train is worth twice the chassis' value.
Ray, I see that you use bearing grease, but nothing on the seals. I use some silicone grease which means they don't start dry, and maybe extends service life.
"press in things usually dont require much force" … uses literal press 😀
lol Farming REEs are we? I was actually anticipating the editing trick of making it look like you hit it with the hammer and then the next scene shows the bearing magicly installed and then be like "No I actually used that." and point to the press.
I almost thought we would make it thru this video without seeing Brakekleen
Man you know your way around everything, there is just nothing you can't mechanically accomplish!! Damn Impressive Mister!
Don’t you need atf with friction mod fluid for the new limited slip?
are u stupied when u pressing the bearing ?! use a socket not a plate.
No shop in my town would touch my f150 diff so I had to do this myself on my back and it too worked out 1st shot.
I was taught in mechanic school to turn snaprings w/ flat side towards where the load will be. They are stamped when made. One side is sharper.
I love your content and we ll make mistakes, but we all learn from them, your keeping it true
Ray, check out loctite gasket remover (7200), spray on, wait 30 seconds, clean off the gasket with a cloth.
It's not a chisel it's a drift also some lube on the bearings when fitted would help
Having seen just how far bits of broken gear can go down an axle tube. Personally I would have threaded a piece of rope down the tube, tied a rag on and dragged out through to the centre along with a good spray of cleaner.
Finally you stop using little littery toxicwaste plastic bottles. Very nice!
Have a bright nice and shiny happy new year!
dont forget to get the axle tubes good also
I dont typically comment on videos, but I'm going to need to regear and install lockers on my first gen tundra. It's nice to see a really good install video to give me an idea of what I'm going to need to do.
I'm glad a customer isn't paying for this job. As entertainment I guess it's an ok vid, but as far as instruction goes it's pretty poor.
Housing wasn't cleaned properly
First ring gear not bolted on correctly, used wrong holes in the diff housing
Didn't torque ring gear bolts
Damaged bearing roller cages by pressing on them
Pressed on front diff carrier bearings without shimming them.
The pinion depth pattern on the rear was too shallow.
Didn't check/set gear backlash
Didn't check set pinion bearing preload
Didn't set carrier bearing preload
This rearend will make noise and won't last long. Oh well it's his money !
No friction modifier?
Rule number 1 of owning a Jeep, NEVER put money into a D35. Brakes and lube. Thats it. Those axles are garbage.
I know Ray is a very competent operator so I know that he will have torqued the 4 bolts retaining the carrier to the diff housing to spec. He will also have tightened the pinion nut and preloaded the collapsible pinion collar so that he has the right rotational drag on the pinion, taking into account the extra drag of the seal. However, for the sake of sanity on my part, I wish he would shown this or at least mentioned these aspects. Retired mechanic/machinist in Land Down Under.
Ray, put a hose clamp on your pump.
AAA !!!!!
Installed bearing races for 20 yrs with a punch, never an issue.
If you would have boiled the bearing in oil first, it would have slid on without the press.
LOL!!! You scared me with that hammer!!!🤣
Anyone else want a random phone set up to go off every now and then so we can hear the "do-do-do-do-do"? 😆
Ray, people freak out at things like not using "magick bearing tool installer" way too much. People have successfully installed and removed bearings and races for over 100 years with punches and chisels. People need to relax and trust the guy that actually knows what he is doing and what the hell is going on. If they are that worried they can install the thing their damn self. Keep up the good work brother!
I used to put my shafts in the freezer and put my bearings into a turned off but warm oven…
..the bearings used to just slide on..
Just some advice for the future.
Heat the housing with a torch, cool the race with an UPSIDE DOWN can of air duster, or almost any household aresol propelled liquid. They'll slide together with the press of a finger.
Personally I think all press fit parts should be assembled this way. Most shops always have both items on hand.
i think this reflects your good character and will work for you in the long run. good vid man
Apparently you don’t have a freezer there !
What about the limited slip modifier lube additive? Most clutch type limmited slip units require that additive. Or is those Eaton units different? If not the clutches burn out by slipping.